Had to laugh when you mentioned bad chad - Now that's a guy who can really sculpt a turd - all while using the floor as his tool box. I'll say it again Travis .......only the guys with the knowledge.... know that........ you know your chit .
Bad Chad would not last in a proper body shop as they don't tack and fill lol For most of his viewers it is good but. Get him lead loading some panels lol
This guy is a joke! OMG a real body man would never mudding over and over. The pencil marks is ridiculous. Weighing the mud is ridiculous! I’ve done bodywork for 40 years and this guy and his technique is a total joke to people that really know how to do bodywork! All this bondo and waste of time and mudding the entire car causes shrinkage and so much more work.
I don't watch bad Chad he never finishes what he starts I'm 65 years old I've been chopping cars up since the 70s and the Finish is the hardest part I'm tired that's why I build rat Rod now
Vids are getting better and better! You do a great job breaking this down for people to digest and improve our abilities. Thanks for passing your knowledge on.
I just got rage ultra today because i was so sick of bondo.... i should have listened months ago when i first saw this video. Its game changing. I have like 60 hours into replacing cab corners, rockers and a respray on my truck. I would be a lot further along if i had the right stuff to begin with. No pinholes, sands phenomenally, and spreads amazingly. Its $150/gal here in Canada, but still worth it, especially if youre a newbie. You need something thats the most forgiving.
You make it look easy but as someone who has done plenty of bodywork, I know how much talent it takes to do it right. I've met many people who do bodywork but only a handful that do it right like yourself.
I agree with the amount of hardener needed when applying filler in high temperatures. I've used less than half the recommended amount of hardener and NEVER had an issue. It will set off in high heat, no worries. I once painted a Holden FJ series, which was produced in Australia by Holden from 1953. I was only asked to paint it, as he had already done the body work, and he just wanted it painted to protect it. When I got the car, the body work was so bad, I told him I wouldn't paint it without redoing all the body work myself. It had been a complete nuts and bolts restoration, and I felt it was worth doing right. I used a cheap filler, and as it was during summer, I used less than half the recommended amount of hardener. The job came out great, and he was persuaded by his friends to enter into a car show a year after I did the job, and It won best body and best paint. On a side note, after I cut and polished the paint (10 months after I painted it) I asked his wife for some cornflour, to give it a final polish, and she gave me icing sugar. I didn't notice until I started to taste the sweetness in my mouth. But, as I was polishing it, I could see the fine scratches from the buffing compound disappearing like magic. It turned out like glass. I used it on all my best jobs after that. Thanks for the vids and the trip down memory lane. Cheers from Australia.
I’m riveted by your sense of perfectionism, your “work smarter not harder” methods, and most of all both your skill and passion for teaching - teaching itself being its own skill. Your videos are both informational inspirational. Thank you so much! (I’m also in SoCal).
Travis ... the dynamics behind the mechanics of proper 'filler' mixing application and sanding that you cover all the details with is amazing - to be able to explain all of that and showing exactly while you work you are an artisan Sir
We try to anyway every now and then we might prime a few areas depends on the client. We usually take our filler to 220 then prime and then come back with 220 again then 320 and wet sand 600 for best results.
I've watched your vide I'll s about the different fillers and work time, I went to buy the rage ultra and ultra extra today , and found out that everclear ,( rage ) came out with a slow dry filler and a slow dry hardener that works with all the other everclear products, question is , have you tried them since this video ? thoughts ? I trust what you say and value your videos as a standard to work towards, so truly .. thank you
Pretty crappy to talk about bad Chad we look up to him a lot of his work pretty sad individual you are anyone else who talks about other people pretty horrible we're all trying to make it
Thanks again for another great instructional video Travis, as always your techniques make so much sense. As a guy that is building his own cars and learning in the process your videos are a great guide.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers Travis, Im filming a few projects for my own youtube channel, I have a 57 Chevy Hardtop still in steel work stage, a 74 Falcon XB Coupe Custom, and 72 Falcon sedan , the last 2 are nearing the bodywork stage , hope you get a chance to check them out
Interesting video we do similar work but not on cars. Mainly architectural masters for mold making. You did not cover clearly when to start sanding it looked like you were sanding before filler was fully hard? With our products I That would clog the paper. Thanks Warren
What sands easier, the ultra or the extra? I’ve used probably 100 gal of rage gold and upol. I’ve never tried these two and I don’t use the 3M anymore because of its price
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSI’m paying $76 a gal for upol gold. When I lived in Sacramento there was a store there where we were getting it for cheap, something like $29 gal. I think my current store from what I remember is over $100 for 3M. I think it really depends on the store
First, I want to thank you for this video. I've never visited your sight until now and already subscribed. I just started to try the body work, although I'm 69. I build motorcycles, high performance and repair. I just finished the 1976 Yamaha RD400 motor, very high performance for the drags. I'm going to use the stock metal tank, while the rest is a fiberglass kit. I made an attempt to "Bondo" and every thing you said not to do is what I had done. Not stopping when sanding was my biggest dumbshit mistake. One in a long line of them. Back and forth, Bondo and sand. I am going to start from your earlier videos instead of asking stupid questions. I grew up in Glendora CA and now I'm in Sparks, NV, out where I can't hurt anyone when testing my bikes. I understand that Irwindale Raceway is still around and allowing people like me to run the 1/8 or 1/4 mile drag. Thanks again!
I used to try and sand my problems away and keep digging down. Now I stop instantly when I see a high or low spot. I’m having to remind myself to keep building up to flatness. I’ve been getting critical with my filler as well. I used to just randomly mix it up and spread it on but started noticing that if the hardness of the two fillers is different the harder filler stays high and the softer sands easier and goes low. I’m not even a perfectionist, but if I’m gonna put the time and effort in I’d like better results and keep moving forward instead of chasing low spots and waves that I’m the one creating. It’s like I might as well be hitting the panel with a hammer the last time out. Lol I’m finally getting the hang of it though and I’ve been doing much better following this advice than anything else I’ve seen. I’d like to say thanks for not trying to be hip and entertaining with a bunch of jibber jabber and just getting into it and being normally serious about it. Bodywork isn’t something to joke around about. It’s to damned hard as it is and can make or break an expensive project while making you a foolish time and product waster. Thank you.
Killer video’s on better ways to do body work . Everything you said about high’s and low’s I know exactly what you are talking about . Over the last two years I’ve done a 1962 nova and 1967 Camaro all the welding on panels, all the way to paint .both came out great!!! it was a lot of hard work😅 but life would have been a lot easier if I would have seen your videos first . Keep up the great work looking forward to seeing your next video 👍
Wow! When you mixed that large of a quantity of filler, I never thought you would get it all on the car. You really know what you are doing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!
Good points on many things especially your beginning comments on other people showing there work on how Not to do things there is no cheap way to do quality bodywork aka using things laying around your shop. Badchad
1st time viewing your channel. Excellent content. I like your common sense approach and especially knowing when to STOP. You're expediting the viewers learning curve. Bodywork and painting is how I paid my way through college back in the early 80s and it takes some practice.
When your sandpaper gets clogged, take a paint stirring stick, and whack the sandpaper a few times, and it will unclog it, and extend the life of the sandpaper.
Hey man, I noticed your shop stool there towards end of vid and wanted to ask what kind is it, company, etc. Is it one of those VYPER stools I am guessing? 🤔TBH I have seen them and all but? I personally "think" they (leastways, lotta the Vyper chairs etc.) are a bit overpriced IF I may be so bold Lol. I KEEP saying "I AM GOING TO make my own" by adding the commercial size larger wheels to a $25 economy shop stool, but...Too much way more priority projects always keep coming up. Thank you in advance....Also notice how you keep saying "that crappy UPOL filler" in the vid LOL.....Yeah, certain products for certain and or, some jobs. You AIN'T gonna beat the "GOOD Evercoat line" for the work we are doing. (And? The makers of that product KNOW IT too, BUT...THAT IS another topic).....I obviously NEED ta buy a scale too. Personally? I like seeing the different colors but? I also totally comprehend WHY you do it etc. So...Imma try it! Also ...You say you prime the car ONE time? Can you please explain that process or tell me where to go for that info? Thx again Sly and take care!😎🤘
Thank you. It is a Vyper chair. It’s worth every damn penny too. All lazer cut billet machined the bolts at even high end shanked and flanged. Fully adjustable. There’s no other chair on the market like it. We have a couple now th
Also in regards to the primering one time. It boils down to being lazer focused on your body work. Understanding how to use the correct block/ pressure etc. we have videos on this.
Great video!! I often thought to myself when I saw people adding the hardener to filler, it seemed to be guess work. There's no way it could be exactly consistent. Your scale method makes so much sense. I work with wood all day long for my job restoring Antique furniture. Your shaping/ sculpting methods remind me of carving and shaping in wood, making everything flow. Thanks again. 🍻 Cheers John.
"So you wont hate this as much" notice he didn't say "so you'll enjoy it" 😉 Most will never get to the efficiency of enjoying it, but it is possible 🤘😎
Hi Travis, another great video. Does the Mirca guide coat powder cause an adhesion problem between filler or primer? Or do you eliminate it all before you re-coat?
Thank you for the question. Yes it will cause issues with adhesion. We scuff the area the guide coat is until it’s gone, blow it off completely and reapply and use pencil line as guide.
I like that you use a metal spreader. The guy I worked for was very cheap, so he always bought the plastic spreaders. Which is fine, but then I’d use a metal one and he’d chew me out. Very hard to work with someone like w.
Rage Gold is the best. Price has gone tf up but still. Rage Gold and evercoats finish sand high build primer. I hate doing gaps but it's the only way and I body work every panel on the vehicle.and the best sandpaper hands down is 3m blue. I've used every 3m red and gold etc and blue lasts the longest. That sun whatever is garbage in my opinion.
Upol does kick fast - a bit too fast tbh. I struggle to get anything else here & have learnt to mix VERY small batches or else you're throwing a lot of filler in the bin as it has kicked on the board as you're working.
If you have to double up on bondo😂 just for get about it I only use it once the more you use it’s going to brake bondo should only if at the most is less the width of a dime and that’s pushing it my boss ray Dominguez hired when I did know anything it he should me the base point and my primo David Rincon should me how to pray my uncle Johnny Rincon was a big mentor and a father to me but he showed me a lot also about auto body also Rick Stoney from Rick Stoney says if you put bondo twice you don’t belong in my shop he is the real deal ever want a good job stone bro culllisin tell them Robert casias told you about him
Such great advice. For those of us that suck at filler work, we need all the help we can get. Here in rural manitoba finding a good product is the biggest issue.
I never like spot coating unless I really have to, always just reapplied my filler over the entire area. When I glaze I treat my glaze like primer and go outside my body work around 2-3 inches maybe a little more. The guide coat I love , I always have a can of gloss check as well as a final inspection then off to primer
All these little globs of mud make a humpty surface. On portion is softer then the rest of it. I haven’t seen any bodyman use a cheese grader in 30 years. I use a 8” DA to knock done high spots and to remove sticky portion of the mud. It save time. It save blocking time and and paper and easier and eliminates humpty surfaces.
@@dawinner777 you obviously did not watch the whole video. Everything we do has the exact same hardness it’s measured on a scale. It’s also a very tiny little bit of filler to get rid of any ripples anything you’re doing with the DA sander is not going to result in the same finish that we are performing here. This is for show cars not collision.
Amen on the sand paper ! I’ve seen guys turn 320 into 3000! Hello ! Yes sand paper is expensive , but so is labor . I don’t get it . Spend the damn money and do it right and save your arms .
Great Video, thank you. 100% on the money. Shop Temperature based on outside Temp, humidity/dew point. It’s not all the same everywhere. Use your head and research for yourself.
Really enjoy your channel. Your comment about being a sculptor made me chuckle. When I went to body and paint school 30 years ago our instructors always said, “you are body men, not sculptors. Haha. I get what your saying man”. The products have some a long way. 2K primers didn’t exist. Everything was lacquer. Modern products make it some much better. Keep up the great work.
you make it look so easy but its not. for a diy guy youre never going to do as good a job as you would like. takes a lot of time to master body work. im an electrical/mechanical guy not so good with body work
Nice video. Thank for the tips. I am not a body tech nor know how to apply filler, but I do there to from time to time apply filler in a small job as needed. These tips will make much easier. Thank you.
You had my anxiety at 10! I work in a 90-degree + shop - the time you spent working that filler blew me away! I am one of those 50:1 guys who works with 100g or less at a time. You made a believer out of me. I will be trying this product combo at 70:1! Outstanding!
@SYLVESTORSCUSTOMS Thanks for taking the time to make another very detailed video about how to mix and apply body filler. You mentioned Evercoat Rage Gold briefly but did not explain your thoughts about that version of Evercoat Rage. For those of us doing one off projects and only using body filler in patches rather than doing the whole vehicle, one can of body filler is enough. In this scenario is Rage Gold as good as the other Rage options or does it have some shortcomings?
Good presentation 👍. I've always had good experience with Overcoat brand. I've done many motorcycle frames, tanks, etc and tend to initially use the Metal 2 Metal on bare thoroughly cleaned steel followed by the lighter filler.
I am sorry but had to watch again, this #3, plus it is saved to my private files. Someone ask, here is the link, sharing the filler. Your pencil is a tiny thin guide…coat!
We in College Station Texas and here now is over 80 degrees and high humidity over 50%. It’s our first time mixing Evercoat as recommended 50 to 1. It doesn’t give us two minutes from mixing to the truck and it’s ready hardening and by the time we apply it it lumps up. Do you think that using your technique will be our best option? We are willing to purchase the two Evercoat products we just need a solution for our weather conditions.
New subscriber here. I wish I would have found this channel sooner. I’ve done some Harley’s and some repairs on peoples cars(smaller/less challenges) . I’m now restoring a K5 Blazer, I’m currently in filler stage now. My biggest problem now is being efficient and I have been running into problems with not having enough time to work with the filler and I’m also running into sanding into and through the epoxy. That’s where the biggest efficiency problems come in because when ever I see metal I spray more epoxy having to wait forever to do anything else. With my work schedule of 5-6 days a week of 12-16 hour shifts spare time to work on my truck is invaluable.😂 I have a good understanding how to do this and have always gotten my desired results and people love what I’ve done but damn it takes me forever, so every tip I pick up is much appreciated. Thanks for posting.
Big picture material verses spots of material. Workable amounts and applicable, your definitely done this a long period of times. What sealer did you apply to metal work. 🤙👍🤙👍
The man who taught me p&b worked his bondo with a CP grinder. Then finished with air file and blocks. Amazingly fast and straight and flat with perfect contours and symmetry! He was a perfectionist! We both old and retired now and HATE body and paint work. 😂
I learned to do the 'roughing' with a 9" sander and a stickit 80 grit and sometimes also used a panel file - but - using a panel file incorrectly can slice the filler, hence it takes a lot of careful attention and knowing how to read the movement of the file, but once perfected, it saves a lot of sand paper, the panel file just need a wire wheel to occasionally clean the gummed up file back to near new. I also used a banana panel file to shape concave filler fills, knocking the top of the the highs and 'roughing' the shape before moving to the 80 grit. It was common to use 36 grit for the roughing, I never used it and used 80 grit, I never liked the deep cuts that were left from the 36 grit. HA - I HATE being a perfectionist - nobody notices the work that goes into the perfection but me. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
I used to work at a shop down in "The City" where we did ALOTTA blow n go "kustom" work/restoration jobs 😏...And I "got schooled on the air file" by an old timer AND? AFTER I FINALLY DID figure out HOW to let the sandpaper AND the air file WORK FOR ME...Chit WAS sooo MUCH easier to do with THAT situation. Air File the panels down with 80 grit, finish/finesse it out with 150 on the block and, prime TH outta it WITH high build 2k Urethane Primer and hand block then on out... Several cars ended up in World of Wheels and even 1 of em won 1st place in one of the Lowrider classes.... But yeah, different budgets and different styles of builds and...? Well, I hope ya get where I am coming from Lol 😆👍
AND...? I used to work for a "Corvette Restoration AND Fiberglass body/paint shop" and the owner could be smoking a cigarette, talking to ya, and be runnin a 6 inch DA, and sand darn near ALMOST ANY kinda crazy curved/sculpted/ body lined panels and??? ) ANYWHERE that the 6 inch D.A. COULD basically GO and??? DONE!!!...within a couple few minutes, depending on the area. 😦🤯 I'd just tell him "I hate you, you know it?" LOL....🤘
Because you do not want to do all of your body work with polyester primer it is much more brittle and has a tendency to fail crack, and Delaminate. The goal is always a solid foundation. You should be skim, coating with body filler, and then sealing that up. The goal is that you only have to prime the car one time after bodywork. if you watch our newest video that came out Friday it breaks down all of the different primers.
Sorry about all my comments, but it’s interesting to me. I have a 1977 FJ40 Land Cruiser that I want to strip down and paint. So I watch with keen interest. If I understand you, you use epoxy primer, then body filler. Block to perfection and follow with another epoxy primer? What goes on after that? It also answers my first question about chemical adhesion. You use the second epoxy primer window and apply your high fill primer on that? I’d like to know the exact order and products used for when I do my Cruiser. Thanks, Paul
We epoxy do filler work then reapply epoxy specifically vp2050 it’s a high build epoxy. Then I block that again and when it’s where you are happy with it I wet sand with 600 and spray sealer and paint
acetone goes through those nitril gloves in like 20 seconds.... so it doesnt really make a difference if your finger is exposed (get butyl gloves for acetone)
I came across your channel and I thought, now there is a man that knows quality. So you got another member. Being a hobbyist I enjoy doing body work. It's like you said about being a sculptor. Well in a way we are. But I also like you, use Rage. I use the Xtreme product in their line. It goes on smooth and sands powder fresh. I would like to try their Epoxy/Sealer Primer and their High Build Primer. Thanks for the info. Ronnie.
Dude, the thumbnail image showed Filler Drying To Fast". You MUST change that to read "Filler Drying Too Fast." Call me persnickety, but bad grammar leads to additional bad grammar. Don't leave a bad example for the world to see.
Ummm.....just body filler? Shrinkage and crackage down the road id say from my 30+ years experience. Why not At the least use a fiber reinforced product to fill the gaps? But that'll still shrink up and show a seam later on. Imo, a combo of metal work the (stitch weld the seams) and your technique works best for longevity
Keep in mind most of our cars have extensive metal work already performed. The skim coat should only be approximately a 16th thick any seams have already been metal worked, and removed like the lead seams, and all of that stuff have been completely removed
It took me legit 8 hours to fill and block out my 3rd brake light area above the rear window on my 2nd gen dodge. It took me 2 weeks to sand out rock chips, fill and prime my hood. Its crazy how much faster you can work with experience and pro grade materials and tools.
This right here is what so many will never understand. Thank you for sharing this. It’s really cool that so many that watch us are actually in their garages struggling and making these cars come to life.
Thank you for this! I'm doing filler work over epoxy on a rough restoration project and your tips have saved me a TON of time. I'll have to watch all of your videos now. 👍
If you use the right filler you don't need epoxy the z one my belief is the lesser amt of layers of products the less chance for falture.epoxy is old school we don't use it much any more. It takes maby a month to cure out a
@@rogerstephens8980 My panels had some pitting from surface rust that I acid washed to clean metal. I put the epoxy on first to have a guaranteed good bond to the filler. Yes it does take a long time to cure. This is a slow resto job, not production body shop type work.
We have passed the need for epoxy i dont know if will hurt or help ill say the name for you the Chad dude uses it z grip it will stick to bare metal . A wile back primers weren't what we call metal to metal epoxy was the glue . Now alots o 2k primers are . My favorite is upol it is also pretty cheep.that is all we use you can mix upol as a sealer you could work youre filler on the top. My theory is the more products you put on the more chance for faltered. Idont use ppg because I have had alots of faltures . I use matrix 42 clear 2to 1 4to 1s have about half the urethane base as a good 2to1 and forget acrylic urethane.if youre keeping the car inside mostly a 4to1 is easier to spray but put 3 or 4 coats on to build the urethane that is what holds the whole paint job together.
Correct me if im wrong but i do believe its bad to put bondo on bare metal as it will cause delamination and rust between the bondo and metal causing the paint to flake off in the future. Not many know this but you're suppose to put epoxy sealer on bare metal then scuff it up and then put bondo on top of that. Also after applying bondo and it starts to cure enough for you to be able to touch it and its no longer sticky or "green", you can wipe it down with acetone removing that waxy layer and helps with your sand paper not clogging up as easily.
I weigh filler and hardner on my paint scale every day, and then make certain to mix the exact same size puddle with one stripe of hardener at the exact ratio. In Central Florida right now, using anything except Rage Ultra and Extra is practically impossible. If you mix other fillers properly, they go off while you're mixing them. I've used Rage forever but this newer stuff is amazing. I cringe when I go in a shop and see a can of 3M Platinum with a stir stick sticking out and the lid off the can all day, getting filled with bondo dust. This stuff is super expensive as far as fillers go, probably the most expensive, but having pinholes or mapping come back 6 months later is infinitely more expensive. Well done.
Another grest vid. The attention to detail...in that yhe audio is really clear, is great. Your teaching delivery , clear calm and direct. Not a single erm ah or kinda in sight. Wondering if you were a military instructor or something in a previous job.
Wtf Is going on in yr country how you do things ,is like E and do you lot not work on modern cars like 2024. Vehicles instead of old bangers move onto modern vehicles I have never seen as much filler used on any vehicle it’s crazy skim coating wtf ‘haha We use a file and a hammer and dolly then a tiny amount of filler. 2 day turnaround why the need of filler on a full panel. Haha omg
when doing fibreglass work there is always a sweat film on top so it gums paper up till you get it off,, using right amount of hardener too, any ideas what it might be?
I don't know about anyone else but that is not how its done. Not even close. 3M makes THE NON SHRINK BODY PANEL SEAM SEAL THAT HARDENS LIKE A PANEL GLUE. So if ya wanna look like an idiot rookie in just under a few months time this how ya do just that.
What are you? 25 or something? Already a master. But still able to teach. There are three levels in mastering a subject. 1. Not knowing anything and not knowing what you need to learn. 2. Knowing everything and remembering what you needed to learn. 3. Master of the subject but no longer remembering what it took to get to that level. The best teachers are at #2.
Back in the late 1980s and mid 90s i used wide drywall knock down knifes to spread bondo doing a hood on a 70 chevelle in a couple passes and cutting down work time as a flat rate body tek other guys would laugh
New subscriber, I appreciated the easy to understand, straightforward format. This video just popped up in my feed, but it was definitely helpful and will come in handy on my 69 gto project. I always wondered why body filler dried so fast. My first experience with it was disappointing, but I wasn't weighing it. 🌴😎🤙
Buy both and try different variations. They actually have a mix ratio on their website. You can use only extra but I find that it’s too runny and I don’t like rage ultra by itself either because then it’s too soft. I just really like the way the two are together. I don’t want to wait too long to sand the car. And I want it just in the guidelines I am looking for to play with what works for you
I moved from Cali to Washington and when I tell people about the water based paint bodyshops have to use it blows their mind and ask how does it stay on the car. You should do a video on water based paint if you haven’t already.
Great vid. I know that I suck at body work and it was taking me forever with layer after layer of filler. Now i know what I have been doing wrong, sanding down too far. Thanks and keep up the awesome work!
We switched to rage ultra the last year or so it sands extremely well even compared to the 3m filler. Ive got a question for you how do you clean your filler off before you spread more on just blow it off good or do you wipe it with something?
The biggest problem with body fillers is adhesion. Get that 36 grit and put some teeth in the steal! And float 30-40% more than you think! And your still going to have to re wipe it! Also the longer you can let it sit befor paint the better! Shrinkage is a thing!
We actually recommend doing filler work over epoxy for high end cars not over steel. 36 grit is going to tear up epoxy. Putting on more might work for some but splines will drastically cut down your time and make better sweeps. But as for letting it sit to shrink yes that’s spot on!
I love this channel. Your techniques is very excellent and professional. I learn everything and how to be better as a beginner. Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍💯💯
This is NOT how to do body work. If they had done the metal work as they claim why are they adding filler? only Americans do that. they are more plasterers than body men. You can use filler on small areas in a car but this is heresy. The car is made out of metal, the filler is plastic. What do you think will happen to the paint sitting on it after a few years on your driveway? take a guess.
Had to laugh when you mentioned bad chad - Now that's a guy who can really sculpt a turd - all while using the floor as his tool box. I'll say it again Travis .......only the guys with the knowledge.... know that........ you know your chit .
bad c is a shit bodyman
and a disgusting person who blows snot on the garage floor right in the video.
💯💯💯
Bad Chad would not last in a proper body shop as they don't tack and fill lol
For most of his viewers it is good but. Get him lead loading some panels lol
This guy is a joke! OMG a real body man would never mudding over and over. The pencil marks is ridiculous. Weighing the mud is ridiculous! I’ve done bodywork for 40 years and this guy and his technique is a total joke to people that really know how to do bodywork! All this bondo and waste of time and mudding the entire car causes shrinkage and so much more work.
I don't watch bad Chad he never finishes what he starts I'm 65 years old I've been chopping cars up since the 70s and the Finish is the hardest part I'm tired that's why I build rat Rod now
Vids are getting better and better! You do a great job breaking this down for people to digest and improve our abilities. Thanks for passing your knowledge on.
Thank you very much
I just got rage ultra today because i was so sick of bondo.... i should have listened months ago when i first saw this video. Its game changing. I have like 60 hours into replacing cab corners, rockers and a respray on my truck. I would be a lot further along if i had the right stuff to begin with. No pinholes, sands phenomenally, and spreads amazingly. Its $150/gal here in Canada, but still worth it, especially if youre a newbie. You need something thats the most forgiving.
Glad we could help!
You make it look easy but as someone who has done plenty of bodywork, I know how much talent it takes to do it right. I've met many people who do bodywork but only a handful that do it right like yourself.
Thank you very much! Always improving 👍🏻
I agree with the amount of hardener needed when applying filler in high temperatures. I've used less than half the recommended amount of hardener and NEVER had an issue. It will set off in high heat, no worries.
I once painted a Holden FJ series, which was produced in Australia by Holden from 1953. I was only asked to paint it, as he had already done the body work, and he just wanted it painted to protect it.
When I got the car, the body work was so bad, I told him I wouldn't paint it without redoing all the body work myself. It had been a complete nuts and bolts restoration, and I felt it was worth doing right.
I used a cheap filler, and as it was during summer, I used less than half the recommended amount of hardener. The job came out great, and he was persuaded by his friends to enter into a car show a year after I did the job, and It won best body and best paint. On a side note, after I cut and polished the paint (10 months after I painted it) I asked his wife for some cornflour, to give it a final polish, and she gave me icing sugar. I didn't notice until I started to taste the sweetness in my mouth. But, as I was polishing it, I could see the fine scratches from the buffing compound disappearing like magic. It turned out like glass. I used it on all my best jobs after that. Thanks for the vids and the trip down memory lane.
Cheers from Australia.
That’s awesome thank you very much!!!
I’m riveted by your sense of perfectionism, your “work smarter not harder” methods, and most of all both your skill and passion for teaching - teaching itself being its own skill. Your videos are both informational inspirational. Thank you so much! (I’m also in SoCal).
Thank you very much!!
Travis ... the dynamics behind the mechanics of proper 'filler' mixing application and sanding that you cover all the details with is amazing - to be able to explain all of that and showing exactly while you work you are an artisan Sir
Thank you very much
Even that your on a time constraint on this project you've taken the time to teach, thank you. Subscribed.
Thank you! We appreciate it!
You only prime one time after filler?! Geeze. I do 2 at the least. Block 80 finish in 120 the first or 120 only depending. Prime 220 prime 320-400.
We try to anyway every now and then we might prime a few areas depends on the client. We usually take our filler to 220 then prime and then come back with 220 again then 320 and wet sand 600 for best results.
I've watched your vide I'll s about the different fillers and work time, I went to buy the rage ultra and ultra extra today , and found out that everclear ,( rage ) came out with a slow dry filler and a slow dry hardener that works with all the other everclear products, question is , have you tried them since this video ? thoughts ? I trust what you say and value your videos as a standard to work towards, so truly .. thank you
Thank you very much. I wasn’t aware of that. I’ll have to try some out!!
**TOO FAST** NOT *TO* FAST American education !!
Pretty crappy to talk about bad Chad we look up to him a lot of his work pretty sad individual you are anyone else who talks about other people pretty horrible we're all trying to make it
That’s fine you can paint the cars with a paint brush like he does too 🤣
Another great instructional video. Thanks for putting the time in to record and share, Travis. Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you
The "Bad Chad" remark was childish and un-necessary! You lost a viewer for no reason!
Lol ok
What are good brands for those metal swipers or can i just grab some from harbor freight?
Amazon sells them. I recommend coster steel brand
Thanks again for another great instructional video Travis, as always your techniques make so much sense. As a guy that is building his own cars and learning in the process your videos are a great guide.
Thank you for the great comment. Hope to continue helping you in your journey. What are you working on?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers Travis, Im filming a few projects for my own youtube channel, I have a 57 Chevy Hardtop still in steel work stage, a 74 Falcon XB Coupe Custom, and 72 Falcon sedan , the last 2 are nearing the bodywork stage , hope you get a chance to check them out
is that a metal spreader
Almost forgot, rage ultra used to be 60 a gallon, now it's 100, and it's not even a full gallon. Building back better 🥴🥴
I hear ya trust me!!
Interesting video we do similar work but not on cars. Mainly architectural masters for mold making.
You did not cover clearly when to start sanding it looked like you were sanding before filler was fully hard?
With our products I
That would clog the paper.
Thanks Warren
I am sanding it just before it hardens even if you clog a paper just put more on if you wait till it hardens, you will start getting false shapes.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS really? That would be interesting to see the difference.
What sands easier, the ultra or the extra? I’ve used probably 100 gal of rage gold and upol. I’ve never tried these two and I don’t use the 3M anymore because of its price
Rage ultra and extra is way more than 3m. They both sand nice
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSI’m paying $76 a gal for upol gold. When I lived in Sacramento there was a store there where we were getting it for cheap, something like $29 gal. I think my current store from what I remember is over $100 for 3M. I think it really depends on the store
First, I want to thank you for this video. I've never visited your sight until now and already subscribed. I just started to try the body work, although I'm 69. I build motorcycles, high performance and repair. I just finished the 1976 Yamaha RD400 motor, very high performance for the drags. I'm going to use the stock metal tank, while the rest is a fiberglass kit. I made an attempt to "Bondo" and every thing you said not to do is what I had done. Not stopping when sanding was my biggest dumbshit mistake. One in a long line of them. Back and forth, Bondo and sand. I am going to start from your earlier videos instead of asking stupid questions. I grew up in Glendora CA and now I'm in Sparks, NV, out where I can't hurt anyone when testing my bikes. I understand that Irwindale Raceway is still around and allowing people like me to run the 1/8 or 1/4 mile drag. Thanks again!
Thanks for the sub!
Go watch Bad Chad 😂 😆
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I used to try and sand my problems away and keep digging down.
Now I stop instantly when I see a high or low spot. I’m having to remind myself to keep building up to flatness. I’ve been getting critical with my filler as well. I used to just randomly mix it up and spread it on but started noticing that if the hardness of the two fillers is different the harder filler stays high and the softer sands easier and goes low.
I’m not even a perfectionist, but if I’m gonna put the time and effort in I’d like better results and keep moving forward instead of chasing low spots and waves that I’m the one creating.
It’s like I might as well be hitting the panel with a hammer the last time out. Lol
I’m finally getting the hang of it though and I’ve been doing much better following this advice than anything else I’ve seen.
I’d like to say thanks for not trying to be hip and entertaining with a bunch of jibber jabber and just getting into it and being normally serious about it. Bodywork isn’t something to joke around about. It’s to damned hard as it is and can make or break an expensive project while making you a foolish time and product waster.
Thank you.
Best comment I’ve received thank you!! Glad they help!!
Was lucky to be friends with painter Junior
Not sure who that is but cool
Killer video’s on better ways to do body work . Everything you said about high’s and low’s I know exactly what you are talking about . Over the last two years I’ve done a 1962 nova and 1967 Camaro all the welding on panels, all the way to paint .both came out great!!! it was a lot of hard work😅 but life would have been a lot easier if I would have seen your videos first . Keep up the great work looking forward to seeing your next video 👍
Thank you!
Wow! When you mixed that large of a quantity of filler, I never thought you would get it all on the car. You really know what you are doing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!
Glad you liked it!
Good points on many things especially your beginning comments on other people showing there work on how Not to do things there is no cheap way to do quality bodywork aka using things laying around your shop. Badchad
Haha thank you!
1st time viewing your channel. Excellent content. I like your common sense approach and especially knowing when to STOP. You're expediting the viewers learning curve. Bodywork and painting is how I paid my way through college back in the early 80s and it takes some practice.
Thank you very much. We started in our garage and we just like to help out people doing the same thing.
When your sandpaper gets clogged, take a paint stirring stick, and whack the sandpaper a few times, and it will unclog it, and extend the life of the sandpaper.
Hey man, I noticed your shop stool there towards end of vid and wanted to ask what kind is it, company, etc. Is it one of those VYPER stools I am guessing? 🤔TBH I have seen them and all but? I personally "think" they (leastways, lotta the Vyper chairs etc.) are a bit overpriced IF I may be so bold Lol. I KEEP saying "I AM GOING TO make my own" by adding the commercial size larger wheels to a $25 economy shop stool, but...Too much way more priority projects always keep coming up. Thank you in advance....Also notice how you keep saying "that crappy UPOL filler" in the vid LOL.....Yeah, certain products for certain and or, some jobs. You AIN'T gonna beat the "GOOD Evercoat line" for the work we are doing. (And? The makers of that product KNOW IT too, BUT...THAT IS another topic).....I obviously NEED ta buy a scale too. Personally? I like seeing the different colors but? I also totally comprehend WHY you do it etc. So...Imma try it! Also ...You say you prime the car ONE time? Can you please explain that process or tell me where to go for that info? Thx again Sly and take care!😎🤘
Thank you. It is a Vyper chair. It’s worth every damn penny too. All lazer cut billet machined the bolts at even high end shanked and flanged. Fully adjustable. There’s no other chair on the market like it. We have a couple now th
Also in regards to the primering one time. It boils down to being lazer focused on your body work. Understanding how to use the correct block/ pressure etc. we have videos on this.
Great video!! I often thought to myself when I saw people adding the hardener to filler, it seemed to be guess work. There's no way it could be exactly consistent. Your scale method makes so much sense.
I work with wood all day long for my job restoring Antique furniture. Your shaping/ sculpting methods remind me of carving and shaping in wood, making everything flow.
Thanks again.
🍻 Cheers John.
Yes very similar techniques I would imagine. Thanks for watching!
"So you wont hate this as much" notice he didn't say "so you'll enjoy it" 😉
Most will never get to the efficiency of enjoying it, but it is possible 🤘😎
Hi Travis, another great video. Does the Mirca guide coat powder cause an adhesion problem between filler or primer? Or do you eliminate it all before you re-coat?
Thank you for the question. Yes it will cause issues with adhesion. We scuff the area the guide coat is until it’s gone, blow it off completely and reapply and use pencil line as guide.
I like that you use a metal spreader. The guy I worked for was very cheap, so he always bought the plastic spreaders. Which is fine, but then I’d use a metal one and he’d chew me out. Very hard to work with someone like w.
I recently tried evercoat plastic honey with rage ultra. And it helps tremendously in this 100 degree weather. Only use it for big areas.
If you haven’t mixed the two together you gotta try it. Not even comparable to adding honey 👍🏻
Rage Gold is the best. Price has gone tf up but still. Rage Gold and evercoats finish sand high build primer. I hate doing gaps but it's the only way and I body work every panel on the vehicle.and the best sandpaper hands down is 3m blue. I've used every 3m red and gold etc and blue lasts the longest. That sun whatever is garbage in my opinion.
Upol does kick fast - a bit too fast tbh. I struggle to get anything else here & have learnt to mix VERY small batches or else you're throwing a lot of filler in the bin as it has kicked on the board as you're working.
so glad seeing you guys using cream hardener not the drop/liquid.. ... ive always used a old window from a car for filler ..
Great vid. Going to my save box to revisit once I start on my 65C10. Keep up the great work!!!
Thank you!!
If you have to double up on bondo😂 just for get about it I only use it once the more you use it’s going to brake bondo should only if at the most is less the width of a dime and that’s pushing it my boss ray Dominguez hired when I did know anything it he should me the base point and my primo David Rincon should me how to pray my uncle Johnny Rincon was a big mentor and a father to me but he showed me a lot also about auto body also Rick Stoney from Rick Stoney says if you put bondo twice you don’t belong in my shop he is the real deal ever want a good job stone bro culllisin tell them Robert casias told you about him
They also have a long pot life . they don’t dry up . I had one sit for 3 months open it up and bam still good
Such great advice. For those of us that suck at filler work, we need all the help we can get. Here in rural manitoba finding a good product is the biggest issue.
Thank you
I'd love to hear what My Friend Pete has to say about this video.
Great informative video, you have a very nice teaching style. Simple and to the point, but clear explanations for why everything is done.
Thank you very much!
I never like spot coating unless I really have to, always just reapplied my filler over the entire area. When I glaze I treat my glaze like primer and go outside my body work around 2-3 inches maybe a little more. The guide coat I love , I always have a can of gloss check as well as a final inspection then off to primer
Love the videos too
@@FrankieTheTech thank you!
All these little globs of mud make a humpty surface. On portion is softer then the rest of it. I haven’t seen any bodyman use a cheese grader in 30 years. I use a 8” DA to knock done high spots and to remove sticky portion of the mud. It save time. It save blocking time and and paper and easier and eliminates humpty surfaces.
@@dawinner777 you obviously did not watch the whole video. Everything we do has the exact same hardness it’s measured on a scale. It’s also a very tiny little bit of filler to get rid of any ripples anything you’re doing with the DA sander is not going to result in the same finish that we are performing here. This is for show cars not collision.
I’ve unsubscribed, can’t do with slating other builders.
You do what you as do others what they do.
Sorry to hear we can’t have any fun. We didn’t attack any of his processes or him as a person. Hope you have a nice day sir.
I started watching but ur right, I can't stand talking down other builders myself.
Me mixing body filler turns into me socking the glob 🤣😅Enemies
Amen on the sand paper ! I’ve seen guys turn 320 into 3000! Hello ! Yes sand paper is expensive , but so is labor . I don’t get it . Spend the damn money and do it right and save your arms .
👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Great Video, thank you.
100% on the money. Shop Temperature based on outside Temp, humidity/dew point. It’s not all the same everywhere. Use your head and research for yourself.
Well said!
Really enjoy your channel. Your comment about being a sculptor made me chuckle. When I went to body and paint school 30 years ago our instructors always said, “you are body men, not sculptors. Haha. I get what your saying man”. The products have some a long way. 2K primers didn’t exist. Everything was lacquer. Modern products make it some much better. Keep up the great work.
Thank you!! 🤣🤣
you make it look so easy but its not. for a diy guy youre never going to do as good a job as you would like. takes a lot of time to master body work. im an electrical/mechanical guy not so good with body work
I was that DIY guy like anything practice makes perfect. I just went full time doing this may of 2022
Nice video. Thank for the tips. I am not a body tech nor know how to apply filler, but I do there to from time to time apply filler in a small job as needed. These tips will make much easier. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
You had my anxiety at 10! I work in a 90-degree + shop - the time you spent working that filler blew me away! I am one of those 50:1 guys who works with 100g or less at a time. You made a believer out of me. I will be trying this product combo at 70:1! Outstanding!
It’s a game changer. Hope you love it as much as I do
@SYLVESTORSCUSTOMS Thanks for taking the time to make another very detailed video about how to mix and apply body filler. You mentioned Evercoat Rage Gold briefly but did not explain your thoughts about that version of Evercoat Rage.
For those of us doing one off projects and only using body filler in patches rather than doing the whole vehicle, one can of body filler is enough. In this scenario is Rage Gold as good as the other Rage options or does it have some shortcomings?
If you’re just doing a spot here and there, it’s just fine. We also like 3M platinum plus
Very good point on the metal work im way better with that then the body filler
Good presentation 👍. I've always had good experience with Overcoat brand. I've done many motorcycle frames, tanks, etc and tend to initially use the Metal 2 Metal on bare thoroughly cleaned steel followed by the lighter filler.
I am sorry but had to watch again, this #3, plus it is saved to my private files. Someone ask, here is the link, sharing the filler. Your pencil is a tiny thin guide…coat!
Glad you liked it feel free to watch this as many times as you want 🤣
Great video! Your presentations are very concise, easy to follow, and lots of great information!
Thank you !
A good tip is to put your Hardner on the side of your Filler So it doesn’t make a hard spot where It contacts The filler before you mix it
Thanks for the tip and for watching. 👍
We in College Station Texas and here now is over 80 degrees and high humidity over 50%. It’s our first time mixing Evercoat as recommended 50 to 1. It doesn’t give us two minutes from mixing to the truck and it’s ready hardening and by the time we apply it it lumps up. Do you think that using your technique will be our best option? We are willing to purchase the two Evercoat products we just need a solution for our weather conditions.
The two products. Ultra & ultra extra are def a game changer
New subscriber here. I wish I would have found this channel sooner. I’ve done some Harley’s and some repairs on peoples cars(smaller/less challenges) . I’m now restoring a K5 Blazer, I’m currently in filler stage now. My biggest problem now is being efficient and I have been running into problems with not having enough time to work with the filler and I’m also running into sanding into and through the epoxy. That’s where the biggest efficiency problems come in because when ever I see metal I spray more epoxy having to wait forever to do anything else. With my work schedule of 5-6 days a week of 12-16 hour shifts spare time to work on my truck is invaluable.😂 I have a good understanding how to do this and have always gotten my desired results and people love what I’ve done but damn it takes me forever, so every tip I pick up is much appreciated. Thanks for posting.
Right on! Thanks for watching!
Big picture material verses spots of material. Workable amounts and applicable, your definitely done this a long period of times. What sealer did you apply to metal work. 🤙👍🤙👍
Check out our block sanding primer video it goes over the vp2050 we use 👌🏻
The man who taught me p&b worked his bondo with a CP grinder. Then finished with air file and blocks. Amazingly fast and straight and flat with perfect contours and symmetry! He was a perfectionist! We both old and retired now and HATE body and paint work. 😂
I learned to do the 'roughing' with a 9" sander and a stickit 80 grit and sometimes also used a panel file - but - using a panel file incorrectly can slice the filler, hence it takes a lot of careful attention and knowing how to read the movement of the file, but once perfected, it saves a lot of sand paper, the panel file just need a wire wheel to occasionally clean the gummed up file back to near new. I also used a banana panel file to shape concave filler fills, knocking the top of the the highs and 'roughing' the shape before moving to the 80 grit. It was common to use 36 grit for the roughing, I never used it and used 80 grit, I never liked the deep cuts that were left from the 36 grit. HA - I HATE being a perfectionist - nobody notices the work that goes into the perfection but me. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
I used to work at a shop down in "The City" where we did ALOTTA blow n go "kustom" work/restoration jobs 😏...And I "got schooled on the air file" by an old timer AND? AFTER I FINALLY DID figure out HOW to let the sandpaper AND the air file WORK FOR ME...Chit WAS sooo MUCH easier to do with THAT situation. Air File the panels down with 80 grit, finish/finesse it out with 150 on the block and, prime TH outta it WITH high build 2k Urethane Primer and hand block then on out... Several cars ended up in World of Wheels and even 1 of em won 1st place in one of the Lowrider classes.... But yeah, different budgets and different styles of builds and...? Well, I hope ya get where I am coming from Lol 😆👍
AND...? I used to work for a "Corvette Restoration AND Fiberglass body/paint shop" and the owner could be smoking a cigarette, talking to ya, and be runnin a 6 inch DA, and sand darn near ALMOST ANY kinda crazy curved/sculpted/ body lined panels and??? ) ANYWHERE that the 6 inch D.A. COULD basically GO and??? DONE!!!...within a couple few minutes, depending on the area. 😦🤯 I'd just tell him "I hate you, you know it?" LOL....🤘
Why would you use this instead of using Featherfill G2? Cost? Ability to make as much or little as you need?
Because you do not want to do all of your body work with polyester primer it is much more brittle and has a tendency to fail crack, and Delaminate. The goal is always a solid foundation. You should be skim, coating with body filler, and then sealing that up. The goal is that you only have to prime the car one time after bodywork. if you watch our newest video that came out Friday it breaks down all of the different primers.
These techniques work amazing . Just did 28 model A front and rear fenders painted black .gorgeous results .
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
He is an excellent teacher. I am working on a 29 Model A coupe myself. Take care. Tom
Sorry about all my comments, but it’s interesting to me. I have a 1977 FJ40 Land Cruiser that I want to strip down and paint. So I watch with keen interest.
If I understand you, you use epoxy primer, then body filler. Block to perfection and follow with another epoxy primer? What goes on after that? It also answers my first question about chemical adhesion. You use the second epoxy primer window and apply your high fill primer on that?
I’d like to know the exact order and products used for when I do my Cruiser.
Thanks,
Paul
We epoxy do filler work then reapply epoxy specifically vp2050 it’s a high build epoxy. Then I block that again and when it’s where you are happy with it I wet sand with 600 and spray sealer and paint
acetone goes through those nitril gloves in like 20 seconds.... so it doesnt really make a difference if your finger is exposed (get butyl gloves for acetone)
@@TheZahnputz 👍🏻 will do
I came across your channel and I thought, now there is a man that knows quality. So you got another member. Being a hobbyist I enjoy doing body work. It's like you said about being a sculptor. Well in a way we are. But I also like you, use Rage. I use the Xtreme product in their line. It goes on smooth and sands powder fresh. I would like to try their Epoxy/Sealer Primer and their High Build Primer. Thanks for the info. Ronnie.
Thank you we try our best!
Dude, the thumbnail image showed Filler Drying To Fast". You MUST change that to read "Filler Drying Too Fast." Call me persnickety, but bad grammar leads to additional bad grammar. Don't leave a bad example for the world to see.
Your welcome for free information 🙄
Ummm.....just body filler? Shrinkage and crackage down the road id say from my 30+ years experience. Why not At the least use a fiber reinforced product to fill the gaps? But that'll still shrink up and show a seam later on. Imo, a combo of metal work the (stitch weld the seams) and your technique works best for longevity
Keep in mind most of our cars have extensive metal work already performed. The skim coat should only be approximately a 16th thick any seams have already been metal worked, and removed like the lead seams, and all of that stuff have been completely removed
Gotta know when the stop whipping it too good stuff
That 61 trunk looks so velvety with that primer yellow/green you have on it. Almost fainted when you thru your mask on top of it.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 my bad
Old Body guy I worked with called himself Leonardo De'Bondo ... all about sculpting
That’s awesome it’s so true!
It took me legit 8 hours to fill and block out my 3rd brake light area above the rear window on my 2nd gen dodge. It took me 2 weeks to sand out rock chips, fill and prime my hood. Its crazy how much faster you can work with experience and pro grade materials and tools.
This right here is what so many will never understand. Thank you for sharing this. It’s really cool that so many that watch us are actually in their garages struggling and making these cars come to life.
Thank you for this! I'm doing filler work over epoxy on a rough restoration project and your tips have saved me a TON of time. I'll have to watch all of your videos now. 👍
Glad to hear it! Thank you
If you use the right filler you don't need epoxy the z one my belief is the lesser amt of layers of products the less chance for falture.epoxy is old school we don't use it much any more. It takes maby a month to cure out a
@@rogerstephens8980 My panels had some pitting from surface rust that I acid washed to clean metal. I put the epoxy on first to have a guaranteed good bond to the filler. Yes it does take a long time to cure. This is a slow resto job, not production body shop type work.
We have passed the need for epoxy i dont know if will hurt or help ill say the name for you the Chad dude uses it z grip it will stick to bare metal . A wile back primers weren't what we call metal to metal epoxy was the glue . Now alots o 2k primers are . My favorite is upol it is also pretty cheep.that is all we use you can mix upol as a sealer you could work youre filler on the top. My theory is the more products you put on the more chance for faltered. Idont use ppg because I have had alots of faltures . I use matrix 42 clear 2to 1 4to 1s have about half the urethane base as a good 2to1 and forget acrylic urethane.if youre keeping the car inside mostly a 4to1 is easier to spray but put 3 or 4 coats on to build the urethane that is what holds the whole paint job together.
Correct me if im wrong but i do believe its bad to put bondo on bare metal as it will cause delamination and rust between the bondo and metal causing the paint to flake off in the future. Not many know this but you're suppose to put epoxy sealer on bare metal then scuff it up and then put bondo on top of that. Also after applying bondo and it starts to cure enough for you to be able to touch it and its no longer sticky or "green", you can wipe it down with acetone removing that waxy layer and helps with your sand paper not clogging up as easily.
Yes this car has epoxy down. But if you burn through it’s a high spot which you will burn through again when you get it flush.
wish we had an instructor like you in the workplace. Most tradesmen are grumpy and high on drugs
Thank you
Thank you so much for giving us exact instructions. Most canels are just entertainment and yours is instructional and entertaining.
You're very welcome!
I weigh filler and hardner on my paint scale every day, and then make certain to mix the exact same size puddle with one stripe of hardener at the exact ratio. In Central Florida right now, using anything except Rage Ultra and Extra is practically impossible. If you mix other fillers properly, they go off while you're mixing them. I've used Rage forever but this newer stuff is amazing. I cringe when I go in a shop and see a can of 3M Platinum with a stir stick sticking out and the lid off the can all day, getting filled with bondo dust. This stuff is super expensive as far as fillers go, probably the most expensive, but having pinholes or mapping come back 6 months later is infinitely more expensive. Well done.
Well said! Thank you!
Another grest vid. The attention to detail...in that yhe audio is really clear, is great. Your teaching delivery , clear calm and direct. Not a single erm ah or kinda in sight. Wondering if you were a military instructor or something in a previous job.
Thank you. No I wasn’t just teaching as we learn ourselves 👍🏻
Wtf Is going on in yr country how you do things ,is like E and do you lot not work on modern cars like 2024. Vehicles instead of old bangers move onto modern vehicles I have never seen as much filler used on any vehicle it’s crazy skim coating wtf ‘haha We use a file and a hammer and dolly then a tiny amount of filler. 2 day turnaround why the need of filler on a full panel. Haha omg
Glad you love the channel thx for watching 🤪
when doing fibreglass work there is always a sweat film on top so it gums paper up till you get it off,, using right amount of hardener too, any ideas what it might be?
I’m unsure I’d need a picture of it? Send it via Instagram if you are on there?
Would be nice to come up with a “Hot Wire” technique.
I don't know about anyone else but that is not how its done. Not even close. 3M makes THE NON SHRINK BODY PANEL SEAM SEAL THAT HARDENS LIKE A PANEL GLUE. So if ya wanna look like an idiot rookie in just under a few months time this how ya do just that.
Lmao
how did you determine the areas that are low?
What are you? 25 or something? Already a master. But still able to teach.
There are three levels in mastering a subject.
1. Not knowing anything and not knowing what you need to learn.
2. Knowing everything and remembering what you needed to learn.
3. Master of the subject but no longer remembering what it took to get to that level.
The best teachers are at #2.
I wish I was 25 lol. 37 👌🏻
Great info great body filler evercoat you can work with it. God bless
Thanks 👍
I think I have an idea for you you should get a color cold chart after it’s mixed so you know for different temperatures
Evercoat actually has one already 👌🏻
Back in the late 1980s and mid 90s i used wide drywall knock down knifes to spread bondo doing a hood on a 70 chevelle in a couple passes and cutting down work time as a flat rate body tek other guys would laugh
Bet it worked good too 👌🏻
Ok. So the Rage Ultra is good by itself but the Extra extends its working time? Is that it? Do I need to buy both if I’m working small parts?
Paul
Correct the extra is for extra time. If you don’t need it then you are good. It’s a great tool in hotter weather.
New subscriber, I appreciated the easy to understand, straightforward format. This video just popped up in my feed, but it was definitely helpful and will come in handy on my 69 gto project. I always wondered why body filler dried so fast. My first experience with it was disappointing, but I wasn't weighing it. 🌴😎🤙
Awesome thank you !
Why not just use RAGE Ultra Xtra, I heard you say you get the best of both worlds, but I don't understand what the advantage to mixing it is
Buy both and try different variations. They actually have a mix ratio on their website. You can use only extra but I find that it’s too runny and I don’t like rage ultra by itself either because then it’s too soft. I just really like the way the two are together. I don’t want to wait too long to sand the car. And I want it just in the guidelines I am looking for to play with what works for you
I moved from Cali to Washington and when I tell people about the water based paint bodyshops have to use it blows their mind and ask how does it stay on the car. You should do a video on water based paint if you haven’t already.
We have one doing a 63 Lincoln.
I am a 71 year old student in your shop now. Lol.
Great vid. I know that I suck at body work and it was taking me forever with layer after layer of filler. Now i know what I have been doing wrong, sanding down too far. Thanks and keep up the awesome work!
Good luck !
We switched to rage ultra the last year or so it sands extremely well even compared to the 3m filler. Ive got a question for you how do you clean your filler off before you spread more on just blow it off good or do you wipe it with something?
Blow it off really good I don’t like wiping it with anything you take the chance of contaminating it.
The only filler I use !! Sands great!
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The biggest problem with body fillers is adhesion. Get that 36 grit and put some teeth in the steal! And float 30-40% more than you think! And your still going to have to re wipe it! Also the longer you can let it sit befor paint the better! Shrinkage is a thing!
We actually recommend doing filler work over epoxy for high end cars not over steel. 36 grit is going to tear up epoxy. Putting on more might work for some but splines will drastically cut down your time and make better sweeps. But as for letting it sit to shrink yes that’s spot on!
I love this channel. Your techniques is very excellent and professional. I learn everything and how to be better as a beginner. Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍💯💯
Thank you 👍🏻
This is NOT how to do body work. If they had done the metal work as they claim why are they adding filler? only Americans do that. they are more plasterers than body men. You can use filler on small areas in a car but this is heresy. The car is made out of metal, the filler is plastic. What do you think will happen to the paint sitting on it after a few years on your driveway? take a guess.
Thanks for watching.