You can use a thick foam interface pad or double up the skinny ones to key the primer without cutting through with a da, turn the da down as well obvs.
Travis, this is a great video to explain why and follow step by step abrasives guideline for bodywork, beginning to cut and buff. Question; Even with properly applied epoxy or DTM epoxy high-build, perhaps primer / sealer, I freak out with the concept of wet sanding. It seems you would always have break through areas after blocking, but isn't filler like a sponge? Has chemistry changed that much? DK.
Great videos. I’m doing a garage paint-prep job on an old Galaxie. Doing as much bodywork and prep as I can before I bring it to the paint shop. The painter says he wants to block my car himself since I’ve never done it, but I want to get it as close as I can. After fixing plenty of small dents/dings and deep scratches after 80 grit, then filler, 80 grit, more filler, then 80 grit to 150 grit on a small block, 150 DA and 150 hand sanding ( the body lines and small areas) over the whole car, I think I’m getting close to priming. Since the car won’t be painted for at least a month, and 2k high build urethane primer apparently gets harder to sand over time, should I NOT prime it but instead pay my painter to also do the priming as well as the subsequent blocking after 3 coats of the high build primer? Also, can I use spray cans to paint the back lips of the trunk lid, jambs, under rockers, and other areas that won’t be painted with doors, trunk, and hood are closed? My 68 Galaxie fastback will not be a $35-40k car when it’s done, so I can’t spend a fortune on it. Just want a nice, wave-free, orange peel free, halo-free paint job using 3 coats of the original Ford candy apple red solid followed by 3 coats of clear. I learn a LOT from your videos but I also get confused because of all the options. Thanks for any help from you pros out there !!
We don’t use a DA anywhere in our process other than preparing bare metal that in itself will cause ripples in the paint. I do not recommend using a spray can to do anything. I would consult with the guy you have painting it. There’s a reason that he is being specific. And just because your car is not worth 35 or 40,000 for a paint job that doesn’t mean you can’t produce that for cheaper. Thx for watching.
I used VP 2050 based on your recommendations. I called PPG and they suggested 320-400 under areas that you want to use filler. I noticed you suggested 80. It makes more sense to have more mechanical bite imo. However, is it easy to break through the primer with the 80? I only put 2 initial coats on and planned on using more after the bodywork is done. Appreciate these vids!
I'm glad I found this channel. I was watching Bad Chad, but there's something about the way he does things that I don't like. His work process just seems too chaotic. To each their own, but this channel is more along the lines of how I do things. Slow and methodical.
Great explanation. I was wondering if you could recommend a high quality single stage that is safe to use over the VP 2050 dtm primer and subsequent sealer? Thanks Again. Cheers John.
Everyone tells me that I can't primer over 40 grit scratches, but if I am blocking it after, why would that be? I have done about 1/2 my 54 Belair, but now that I see your skim coat technique I am second guessing myself because I always run across high spots and then my progress really slows down to address the issue. This is my 1st time doing a paint job.
Because that big of a scratch leaves a large void that as your primer shrinks those scratches will reappear later down the road. You want to finish in 150 grit then prime
I'm trying to sand my truck down to metal. Geeze!!! I have a 6" variable speed DA and a 6" long throw random orbit DA... I'm using 40 grit and it's like I'm getting NOWHERE. I can tell by the layers that it's been painted 3 different times and primed everytime without anything being removed first. It didn't have clear coat on the last two paintings. WHAT CAN I DO TO GET DOWN TO METAL EASIER.. I've been sanding for days and still haven't finished the hood.
Beginning of this video covers tools we use to strip with links in the description. ruclips.net/video/6HOonWprmdw/видео.html We really like the Makita option with disc. The die grinder with 3in strip disc is good for tight areas. You will still need to scuff bare metal with 80 on DA after striping is done.
This Blazer I'm stripping is the same way. Layer upon layer. Obscene amount of material. I started using an 8" mud hog with 80 but it was slow. I ended up using these paint stripping wheels on a 4" angle grinder. That was the ticket. These are some kind of fiber(not metal wire). The ones I found on Amazon are blue. Got a 10 pack for about 30. Used 2 for two fenders and the hood. They're similar to the 3M black wheels. They also have a 2" roloc version. They won't load up like sandpaper even with the lacquer I hit. But like Travis said, you'll still have to sand the bare metal with 80g after. Happy digging!
If you started with a paint coated surface with no body filler but hit some bare metal, how would you start? What steps would change or remain the same? Thank you. Second time watching this and still picking things up.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I’m repainting an engine compartment. It has a few spots that are showing bare metal and one spot with rust where the heater hoses came out. The rest is painted with some chips here and there
Ive never had good luck with using a red scotch brite for finishing. Do you seal every job before paint? I usually prep out to 800 and skip sealer over my epoxy
The scotch brite is only for those hard to get areas. Depends on the project. I really like sealing the car with vp2050 thinned out as my last sealer coat and also wet sanded in 600-800 👍🏻
Depends what the TDS says for the epoxy you used and the window. Most are 72 hours you can recoat but I don’t trust it. If I spray 2k over epoxy in the past I’d do it after it’s flashed off
Hi. I am preparing a car for painting with single stage 2k acrylic paint. As I understood you say, that 400grit by hand is enough? Primer which I use is 2k acrylic. It's pretty soft, easy to sand. Dont want to wet sand because of water. These acrylic primers suck water in. And dry sanding 600 and 800(which I thought was a end grit) would ruin paper imediatly. Another thing. Diference between hand sanding and DA. I heard that DA gives like twice smaller scratches from the same grit. Lets say 5mm DA with 120p will be same as handsanding 240p for primer. And for paint is DA 400p and handsanding 800p (no matter dry or wet) for paint. Is that correct?
My opinion, you should be able to wet sand any primer. All primers are porous to one degree or another. They shouldn't hold water if you clean and dry each panel when you're done. As far as DA vs. hand sanding, it depends on how flat and straight you want the finish.
You're talking my language using 120 first on the 2050. I've tried 150 first on cured 2050 and didn't spend much time before jumping to the 120. I seal everything I'm coloring so I'm stopping at P400 wet. Most colors now are designed to go over the Spectral grays(or Valueshade) to get a desired shade or effect and are not sprayed so much for coverage anymore. Wool is where it's at for me. After I'm done compounding I use a 3M compound/polish hybrid designed to buff 5000( didn't really work too well as a one step) so I kept it on with foam. It's a nice transition from wool to polish then finish up with the blue glaze.
My thought is I wouldn’t wet sand any poly primers but I’d wet sand the others. Also I agree chris depends on the finish you want a DA will never get a flat finish.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS for the final buffout you said to use a foam pad but didn’t recommend a product or products. Also, is there a maximum time limit between applying the epoxy primer and doing the base coat in which you would need to apply another coat of primer?
@@jonathans1472 we have a full video on color sanding and polishing. As for epoxy you need to read the TDS sheet for that product it gives you all the timeframes.
Fine dust from sanded filler can pack into the 40grit sand scratch groves that require a fine wire brush to remove. As 3M teaches, the first application of filler, needs to be a tight coat! In other words, a metal filler applicator, just a partial helping of filler, push hard and thin to get the chemical resins, hardener, talc pushed completely into sand scratches to introduce these chemicals, eliminate air inside the scratches you are covering. Reduce and eliminate the chances of future delaminating. Complete above steps prior to applying filler for "Build" coat. Wipe high spots from spreader and tapper edges into surrounding flat known good areas to reduce waisted product and time. These are best practices in filler applications. Either from Sylvester's videos or 3M's video training. DK, Omaha.
Comprehensive coverage on the grits. Very informative. I dig the new edit style
Thank you Phil !
I love this 2000 ft view summary. I wrote it all down and made me a cheat sheet so I can easily reference it since I'm a DIY'er. Thanks!
Awesome!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👌🏻
Terrific and super helpful. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the detailed explanation Start to Finish! Really helps!
Thanks for watching!
Good solid information that I can use at home ! Very much appreciated.
Awesome!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Another excellent video ... just the information a person needs to know .... thanks ....
Thank you!
You can use a thick foam interface pad or double up the skinny ones to key the primer without cutting through with a da, turn the da down as well obvs.
Depends on the finish desired but yes!
Thank you sir
You are welcome!
Travis, this is a great video to explain why and follow step by step abrasives guideline for bodywork, beginning to cut and buff.
Question; Even with properly applied epoxy or DTM epoxy high-build, perhaps primer / sealer, I freak out with the concept of wet sanding. It seems you would always have break through areas after blocking, but isn't filler like a sponge? Has chemistry changed that much? DK.
Filler is a sponge that’s why we wet sand when it’s completely sealed and uniform. 👍🏻
Great videos. I’m doing a garage paint-prep job on an old Galaxie. Doing as much bodywork and prep as I can before I bring it to the paint shop. The painter says he wants to block my car himself since I’ve never done it, but I want to get it as close as I can. After fixing plenty of small dents/dings and deep scratches after 80 grit, then filler, 80 grit, more filler, then 80 grit to 150 grit on a small block, 150 DA and 150 hand sanding ( the body lines and small areas) over the whole car, I think I’m getting close to priming. Since the car won’t be painted for at least a month, and 2k high build urethane primer apparently gets harder to sand over time, should I NOT prime it but instead pay my painter to also do the priming as well as the subsequent blocking after 3 coats of the high build primer? Also, can I use spray cans to paint the back lips of the trunk lid, jambs, under rockers, and other areas that won’t be painted with doors, trunk, and hood are closed?
My 68 Galaxie fastback will not be a $35-40k car when it’s done, so I can’t spend a fortune on it. Just want a nice, wave-free, orange peel free, halo-free paint job using 3 coats of the original Ford candy apple red solid followed by 3 coats of clear. I learn a LOT from your videos but I also get confused because of all the options.
Thanks for any help from you pros out there !!
We don’t use a DA anywhere in our process other than preparing bare metal that in itself will cause ripples in the paint. I do not recommend using a spray can to do anything. I would consult with the guy you have painting it. There’s a reason that he is being specific. And just because your car is not worth 35 or 40,000 for a paint job that doesn’t mean you can’t produce that for cheaper. Thx for watching.
Great vid. Any videos to illustrate differences on how to get a matte finish?
Not yet maybe soon. It’s just a different paint designed to dry with different sheen
Hi. Love your videos. Where do I get the high fill epoxy primer? I can’t find it anywhere. Thanks,
Paul
From ppg you must find a place that sells it
I used VP 2050 based on your recommendations. I called PPG and they suggested 320-400 under areas that you want to use filler. I noticed you suggested 80. It makes more sense to have more mechanical bite imo. However, is it easy to break through the primer with the 80? I only put 2 initial coats on and planned on using more after the bodywork is done. Appreciate these vids!
We’ve updated our process since this video. I also do two coats and hand sand only with 120 it won’t remove as much
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS good to know thanks 🙏
I'm glad I found this channel. I was watching Bad Chad, but there's something about the way he does things that I don't like. His work process just seems too chaotic. To each their own, but this channel is more along the lines of how I do things. Slow and methodical.
Thank you!
Hey I plan on spraying pearl what grit do you recommend to use before sealing. Thx
600 grit
Great explanation. I was wondering if you could recommend a high quality single stage that is safe to use over the VP 2050 dtm primer and subsequent sealer? Thanks Again. Cheers John.
I like the ppg evolution brand over dp90 epoxy as a sealer. 👍🏻
What’s the illusion Im missing with the Lincoln on left and right side of roadster in the filming.
Illusion?
Everyone tells me that I can't primer over 40 grit scratches, but if I am blocking it after, why would that be? I have done about 1/2 my 54 Belair, but now that I see your skim coat technique I am second guessing myself because I always run across high spots and then my progress really slows down to address the issue. This is my 1st time doing a paint job.
Because that big of a scratch leaves a large void that as your primer shrinks those scratches will reappear later down the road. You want to finish in 150 grit then prime
I'm trying to sand my truck down to metal. Geeze!!! I have a 6" variable speed DA and a 6" long throw random orbit DA... I'm using 40 grit and it's like I'm getting NOWHERE. I can tell by the layers that it's been painted 3 different times and primed everytime without anything being removed first. It didn't have clear coat on the last two paintings.
WHAT CAN I DO TO GET DOWN TO METAL EASIER.. I've been sanding for days and still haven't finished the hood.
Beginning of this video covers tools we use to strip with links in the description.
ruclips.net/video/6HOonWprmdw/видео.html
We really like the Makita option with disc. The die grinder with 3in strip disc is good for tight areas. You will still need to scuff bare metal with 80 on DA after striping is done.
This Blazer I'm stripping is the same way. Layer upon layer. Obscene amount of material. I started using an 8" mud hog with 80 but it was slow. I ended up using these paint stripping wheels on a 4" angle grinder. That was the ticket. These are some kind of fiber(not metal wire). The ones I found on Amazon are blue. Got a 10 pack for about 30. Used 2 for two fenders and the hood. They're similar to the 3M black wheels. They also have a 2" roloc version. They won't load up like sandpaper even with the lacquer I hit. But like Travis said, you'll still have to sand the bare metal with 80g after. Happy digging!
If you started with a paint coated surface with no body filler but hit some bare metal, how would you start? What steps would change or remain the same? Thank you. Second time watching this and still picking things up.
Seal up the bare metal spots with a primer that adheres to it wet sand it and paint it
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSwet sand with what grit? No primer over the existing paint?
@@jimdrechsel3611 600 wet. I’d need more info I have no clue what you are doing? Are you blending a spot are you painting entire car etc?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I’m repainting an engine compartment. It has a few spots that are showing bare metal and one spot with rust where the heater hoses came out. The rest is painted with some chips here and there
Man thanksvthat is on ponit
Thank you
Ive never had good luck with using a red scotch brite for finishing. Do you seal every job before paint? I usually prep out to 800 and skip sealer over my epoxy
The scotch brite is only for those hard to get areas. Depends on the project. I really like sealing the car with vp2050 thinned out as my last sealer coat and also wet sanded in 600-800 👍🏻
Thoughts on using a DA after primer prior to base coat?
You can do what you want but if you block it getting a great reflection a DA will take away from it
Can you spray 2k over epoxy sealer without having to sand epoxy first?
Depends what the TDS says for the epoxy you used and the window. Most are 72 hours you can recoat but I don’t trust it. If I spray 2k over epoxy in the past I’d do it after it’s flashed off
So, if it is outside the window say 5 days or a week, would you scuff the epoxy
After spraying 3 coats of 2k high build primer and find scratches in bodywork, do you need to sand the 2k before applying glaze to fill scratches?
Yes
Absolutely
Hi. I am preparing a car for painting with single stage 2k acrylic paint. As I understood you say, that 400grit by hand is enough? Primer which I use is 2k acrylic. It's pretty soft, easy to sand. Dont want to wet sand because of water. These acrylic primers suck water in. And dry sanding 600 and 800(which I thought was a end grit) would ruin paper imediatly.
Another thing. Diference between hand sanding and DA. I heard that DA gives like twice smaller scratches from the same grit. Lets say 5mm DA with 120p will be same as handsanding 240p for primer. And for paint is DA 400p and handsanding 800p (no matter dry or wet) for paint. Is that correct?
My opinion, you should be able to wet sand any primer. All primers are porous to one degree or another. They shouldn't hold water if you clean and dry each panel when you're done. As far as DA vs. hand sanding, it depends on how flat and straight you want the finish.
You're talking my language using 120 first on the 2050. I've tried 150 first on cured 2050 and didn't spend much time before jumping to the 120.
I seal everything I'm coloring so I'm stopping at P400 wet. Most colors now are designed to go over the Spectral grays(or Valueshade) to get a desired shade or effect and are not sprayed so much for coverage anymore.
Wool is where it's at for me. After I'm done compounding I use a 3M compound/polish hybrid designed to buff 5000( didn't really work too well as a one step) so I kept it on with foam. It's a nice transition from wool to polish then finish up with the blue glaze.
Yeah that 2050 is tough stuff but so worth it! Would love to see your work! Shoot us some pics on Instagram 👊🏻
My thought is I wouldn’t wet sand any poly primers but I’d wet sand the others. Also I agree chris depends on the finish you want a DA will never get a flat finish.
It all boils down to the finish and what’s expected. Read comments below 👍🏻
What grit do you use prior to epoxy on a new fiberglass hood?
100-120
Thanks Travis, much appreciated
What product do you like on the foam pad?
What foam pad are you referring to? We use acrylic hard blocks.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS for the final buffout you said to use a foam pad but didn’t recommend a product or products. Also, is there a maximum time limit between applying the epoxy primer and doing the base coat in which you would need to apply another coat of primer?
@@jonathans1472 we have a full video on color sanding and polishing. As for epoxy you need to read the TDS sheet for that product it gives you all the timeframes.
Hi, what's the reason you don't put filler on 40 grit scratches? Thanks!
Did you watch the video??
Fine dust from sanded filler can pack into the 40grit sand scratch groves that require a fine wire brush to remove.
As 3M teaches, the first application of filler, needs to be a tight coat! In other words, a metal filler applicator, just a partial helping of filler, push hard and thin to get the chemical resins, hardener, talc pushed completely into sand scratches to introduce these chemicals, eliminate air inside the scratches you are covering.
Reduce and eliminate the chances of future delaminating.
Complete above steps prior to applying filler for "Build" coat.
Wipe high spots from spreader and tapper edges into surrounding flat known good areas to reduce waisted product and time.
These are best practices in filler applications. Either from Sylvester's videos or 3M's video training.
DK, Omaha.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS yes I watched it twice but didn't catch the reason. Sorry. Someone else answered my question.
@@deankay4434 hey thanks! I watched the video but for some reason missed the reasoning.