Great video. Explained and demonstrated very well. My cousin used to do all the body work and paint on my cars and used to explain what he was doing, like you do. Since he passed away a couple of years ago it's time for me to learn.
I use to use Feather fill spray,it super high builds,but you need to use it all as mixed for the activation is fast and can destroy a gun quickly,Evercoat,as you showed is great and so is silk,yet the super high build Epoxy pre-charge rattle cans are expensive but fast as long as you use it all once to press the button!! Excellent video!!!THANKS!!!!!!!
I have to say that’s one of the best bodywork tutorials I’ve seen in a long time! Excellent work and I can’t wait to see more videos! Thanks for the extra work Making these videos!
This is what I asked you about a week ago and instead of just send me a link to this video you took your time to explain to me what and how I should do. Thanks for taking that time to explain brother, I appreciate that!
Nice work mate I only use about four blocks I make do with other things my jobs always come up mint . After watching this I wouldn’t mind getting sone of these blocks I didn’t know existed
Great video's I have doing this work since the middle 60's and still doing this work in my 70's. Everything you do is "CORRECT" in my book, I always use a guide of black in my sanding processes. Keep up the good job's and I do always learn something when i watch them. Our way may not be the text book way "BUT" it is "Our Way'. Again Great Job from Alabama. Thanks ! Paul
The best way to mud a car. Bumper to bumper in six days. Our mud rep recommends mixing the can prior to using. Paint shaker or stirring. The peroxide and additives settle or sit on the top. This creates pinholes from the additives separating. Love the videos. Thanks
Interesting. I was always taught over mixing and introducing air to filler causes pinholes. I am going to ask my IF Systems guy what he thinks because I know fillers have changed a lot over the years. Glad we don't have to use that nasty green or brown lacquer base spot putty that stuff was terrible haha.
@@sswcustomsewing4276 could be on some fillers. Just think if the additives are not mixed completely, some scoops will not have all the additives in that mix. We were even told to go through thermal cycles with a uv light or sit out in the sun for a few hours for each layer. It's like building a cake. Each layer has to cook completely or you will have shrinkage in between. Yes, glad to see the green lacquer stuff go away lol. Thanks
@@jamesbyers8328 I know that the mek peroxide plasticizer catalyst for styrene fiberglass resin you had to have the correct ratio when you were you were working with it or it would crack, pin holes, and not chemically dry. When I use filler I make sure that my tube of hardener is neaded and fresh I don't take chances I throw away hardener or filler if I have any doubts or if it is old. I know that my ways of doing body work even the products I use are more than likely not what most people use yet they are what I know work for what I do. The filler material he uses here I call it icing and love the stuff it saves me time along with headaches. These new products that actually dry chemically you cannot beat them. I love the catalyzed polyester or epoxy primers because they dry and you don't need to use much. The days of lacquer primers spraying it on, sanding, looking at all your money all over the place, the mess, and they were a pain. Haha the old brown Fill and Sand I do not miss that stuff at all. Or mixing up fiberglass resin and brushing it on that sucked and was not fun definitely not healthy. I am so grateful we are spoiled with new products that are not only better yet importantly safer too. I can lead yet wouldn't want to be stuck doing it or dealing with all the issues that come with working with it yuck. Can I ask what kind of fillers you use ? I appreciate your comments because I love to learn new ways of doing things. Thank you again. Please stay safe and have a great weekend.
@@sswcustomsewing4276 yes the good ol days of icing. I can't remember the name but it was in a tube. Went away from that. I was using Rage Gold and then the Ultra as a glaze or final coat before priming. I use primarily the Ultra. The rep said it wasn't necessary as long as the filler was mixed. When you open a can and all that liquid stuff sitting on top is what I'm talking about. That's the stuff that needs mixed in real good. Also keep the lid on tight and edges clean. The rep also stated evaporation of the product can lead to problems as well. Seen lots of guys leave the lid lay on top of the stick in the can lol. Your welcome. Hopefully this helps. Thank you
I have a couple of tubes of RED lacquer spot putty on the shelf next to the Delco distributor cam lube I can send if you are feeling nostalgic or starting a museum of auto history!
thanks for making this video. Im glad to see how you mixed that body fill. i could never get the hang of folding the filler with the rubber spatula. I'm gonna try the putty knife to mix it. Then use the brake clean to clean my tools. Also, good to see that even though you have bare spots that it's close enough for primer. I always worry when I get bare spots I should tap them down. Just an amateur leaning as i go. thanks for the tips
A gallon of Roberlo Maxifill cost about half of Evercoat Rage Ultra. So it is not that much waist in dollars on the floor. You could try one time just using a couple of tablespoons of Evercoat Honey additive. It may solve two problems as for the sticky skim layer on top is greatly reduced and it reduces the viscosity of the filler. I am thrifty when buying but will spend more money when it is my last build. Thank you for responding to soo many comments dude. Camera, lighting, sound, product, prep and editing is all work as well that I think many don’t consider. I have done body work, weld, electrical and seats but always on our cars. A family of 6 is not cheap with one income. Now I am paying for those 7AM - 9PM days on flat-rate at dealerships and others. Just into my 60’s and have never owned a cell phone since 2008. I was in the garage if they wanted me & magic-jack is cheap! Thanks so much for the video. It helps me feel better about product choices in the 21st century as things keep changing. Guys & Galls both, between Roberlo and AkzelNoble they sell to the rest of the world…all of it! It is not just Valspar, 3M, PPG anymore!
I learned the hard way when I was teaching myself body work. I used to chase the low spots all over the damn place before I figured out to just flood the whole panel with a skim coat of glaze. I like the 3M glaze but I may try the evercoat when I run out. Bet you're happy that damn cold snap is over.
I like all the video guys I watch. I really like the trend of shorter posted videos. I also like hour long ones to take a major building and explaining of why and how also.
I really appreciate the bodywork videos. I feel like it's an art that's not always discussed. I've been trying to learn more about the different types of filler/putty. I attempted to patch bondo a fiberglass topper for k5, and after paint my work was obviously horrible.
I totally understand bro. Ive used these products for years with absolutely no shrinking. Pay the extra bucks for high quality work 👍 thanks for sharing 😃
It does take some time and practice to get all the steps and techniques figured out. I've made all the mistakes. Now I'm pretty good and much more efficient.
A little trick I learned when knocking the glaze off the filler when first sanding is to use a damp rag with acetone or lacquer thinner on to wipe the glaze off before initial sand so the paper won't clog as easily letting the paper last longer. Keep doing the great job with the videos.
I do that with a little thinner wipe on wipe off it helps for sure. Learned that trick from getting the fiberglass parts out of a mold ready for finishing.
Good call …. Another basic thing I always do is use a half worn 40 grit after I cheese grate filler ( not necessary with the putty ) …. So I can go after filler with a fresh piece of 80 so it cuts perfect and doesn’t clog a new piece 👍🏻
Great explanation, back when I was doing body work, we used Bondo and Half Time and all the generic brands in between. But let me tell you, Bondo was so labor intensive but never cracked or chipped.
You could save a ton of time by doing this method. Why? Because it works. I call it curtain coverage. I also use Polyester Featherfill primer and spray & block 2 times. . He does bodywork how I do it and How it's supposed to be done!!! Great video.
If it wasn't for body filler people doing The old man I learned a lot from years ago about body work he always said "People will say bad things about filler it has a bad name because sadly some people sculpt with the stuff these days. Yet what they don't know is body filler saved my life along with a lot of other grouchy old guys like me. Before fillers came along we used lead in my day it worked yet it was a killer. Now with filler I can do more work, I don't have problems with primer or paints, I get to have young guys like you help me get more done, and I don't have to worry about you or me getting sick from this work." I miss that old man he was extremely talented and he taught me a lot of really neat tricks. Interesting part was that old guy rarely painted cars. He would tell people " I am terrible at painting I am just a prep man my job is get it straight, clean, in primer, and ready for the painter to finish up." He never stopped doing body work and I think he was in his 80s when he passed away maybe 90. Guys like him and the gentleman on this channel who teach people from their own experience importantly from the heart they are rare.
Need a very high build sprayable filler.....( bodyman in a can)...is what we call it...3 good coats a guide coat and start wet sanding it down smooth brother!!👌👍....good spreading though nice a constant over the whole panel....that means no waves brother good job!!
It.s good of you to share the products you use so that the people trying to learn to do their own cars arent using crap that in a few years is needing redone since I keep my cars and expect my paint jobs to last 15 to 20 years thank you
Throw a little fiberglass resin in with your plastic to thin the consistency will be just as easy to use as the ever coat glaze and save you a ton of $$$$
When doing large areas like that i find it easier to just go for it & get it stripped down to bare metal, do this process before primering & blocking to discover highs/lows..... Fillers are made specific & adhere best to bare metal, Primers are for over filler.. Even the DTMs today aren't that great IMO - Not compared to the Feather fill & Slick sand types from 20 years ago....Its good to see others from around the MN/WI area doing custom.... My buddy does custom paint/airbrush on bikes & I do the Lowriders down here in Duluth/Superior...
Sounds pretty good although blocking paint leaves scratches with more density than metal scratches for filler to bite stronger ONLY if it's factory paint. If it's been painted before other than factory, strip it. Factory paint has the best bond ever.
First, when you open the bondo, you need mix all product, then add the trigger. Second, the bondo only apply in the dented zone, AND then apply a tinny layer using a big spatula to avoid channels.
@@OutlawEdge sure, however when you open the bondo can, you need to mix, due to the chemicals are disociate, you need to perform a homogenizaton to preventa future problems, such as material fragmentation, Bubbles etc.
I truly appreciate your comments on mixing the filler products. Also, others may freak out that the hardener in the tube was now squished around, but if a company who delivers ands sells a lot of this product, it did not have time to separate as see when the can was opened. I has seen low spots done and entire panels finished as shown, either works and it comes down to how we were taught. If you like something that works and look nice, isn’t this how most end up married? Retired - ASE master tech since 1978.
I love doing body work just done the body of a 95 jeep Wrangler turned out pretty good I would send pictures don't know how be cool brother 😎 Gene Gorringe Mi ✌️
There is a situation about how vehicles are all designed. The curve on sides travel in 1 direction, up and down. From left to right it's straight as an arrow ( no curve ). When filling the whole panel you ONLY want to go in 1single direction, left too right, not up and down. If you do it up and down the first thing is you'll be using WAY more filler and it will be more difficult to straighten it. Just try to fill it length wise and long board it left and right only, you don't even have to straighten it in the crisscross pattern.
Doing that on a curved panel will not allow the flat edge of the spreader to run in the curve. You need to go with the curve or you would end up building out the curve because the spreader wouldn’t get into the dip.
@@justbreakingballs The spreader is made in plastic to have some flexibility so you can curve it with your index and pinky, notice it's the size of your hand only to have that particular curve ability?
Im just a home project guy, but i came to the same conclusion about spreading a panel with filler....after a lot of back n forth and wasted time. I want to be efficient with my spare hours.
Great videos straight forward brotha. I was wondering after the whole panel is glazed and sanded to 80 grit, what’s the next step of grits you move up to? I’m having to do this to my whole car man! thanks.
After 80 grit i sand with 220 grit then three coats of high build primer. After that its kinda up to u how far u wanna go from there. Just remember the nicer the finish the nicer the paintjob. 👍😎
@Outlaw Edge, I think this comment was about scuffing the low spots before adding the Roberlo Maxifill? Basically giving it a tooth to grab onto. But honestly as a tech watching video to help me do this correctly as things, chemicals & techniques change, my hat is off to you, my friend for answering as many post as you do! I like reading after watching in case my question was answered. Regards & Blessing! Retired mechanical tech.
Yes its honestly up to The person applying the body filler. Myself I like to apply body filler over bare metal but other people also apply body filler over primer. Some people like to get the metal work done on the car and then epoxy the whole car in primer. Then the prep the body and spread their body filler. I like to get all the metal work done soon as that is finished I like to spread the body filler blocksand the car and Spray the primer. So honestly it’s up to you what works best. That was a great question thank you for asking. ARCO
I get a bit confused with the high & low talk. So the bare metal bits are high spots and become level with the filler face? So just primer over them and the whole panel?
@@Tassieoak no the bare metal spots are high so you would use a body hammer and tap them down a little bit. And then a small layer of filler over the top of those spots will level out the panel.
Sylvester Customs has a video where he mixes Evercoat Rage and Gold 50/50 and it spread really nice and gives a good work time till it kicks. Maybe you're interested? It's called "THIS NEW BODY FILLER IS REVOLUTIONARY".
Hay that long plastic lucky block just might work after you spread the body filler with the plastic spreader while the body filler it still wet. Just a thought
Another excellent educational video from you sir. Few questions. What did you do with those few high spots? Also you show some oil can effect on the panel. will that cause the filler to crack if someone push on it? can that be fixed?
How do u tell if there low and the other not mills hi where you need to sand a little more due to primer to thick when you primer and sand due to primer due to thick on spray
Personally I would have hit the entire thing with one coat of glaze. Trying to stack it you end up having the materiel sand different from one side to the other and for beginners it can end up being a pain.
Nice job on the panel. Do you use national Detroit air sanders? I use a 6 inch sander and it runs on much lower air pressure. Thank you enjoy your weekend!
Shit I didn't know ye had roberlo over there 😂 love the pronunciation 😂 great stuff I use it of their stuff here in Ireland, do awesome clear coats too and their hi build Is the best iv ever used
Wow so no Poly spray or epoxy? is your primer DTM? I am having a world of trouble with all the Eastwood painting products. I am done . Going old school like you do and my old man did. Thanks for sharing.
Yes its DIRECT TO METAL. Its a great product. Just heard they are having a hard time Manufacturing the product. It really makes me mad because it’s such a good product. I hope they can keep making the stuff. Thanks for watching
The primer that I use is called Showcar Finish monster Fill 500. Dont buy it on Amazon Because they are no longer selling it on there even though the ad is still up on Amazon. If you are interested in buying the stuff I can hook you up with it. If you wanna send me an email if you’re interested. arcohorton53@gmail.com
Soooo, may I ask what "arco" stands for?....Is that the possible Minnesota twist on the eastcoast term of "ARGO"? Meaning what I think it stands for? Lol......Nice work. Try using a way bigger mud-board to sling/mix that mud up though (just a suggestion, IF I may be so bold lol.) But lemme guess? The probable response in return to "my suggestion"?......LOL (thumbs up)
Hey brother thats my name. But thanks for the suggestions and stopping by our channel 👍 I appreciate the nice comments. Have a blessed day bro. Arco Horton
@@OutlawEdge Oh right on man! Again, NICE work sir. You got it goings on as ya know what you are doing. Got yer razor ,chain wallet n keys on... Just like me. Lol 😁👍👊
You must be in a really cold climate here in Miami 90deg.you couldn't spend so much time mixing that filler we we mix half on the board and then as we're spreading it were mixing rest on panel👍🧐
I would have coated the whole door at once chances are where the two layers of filler meet will feel funny. Also squeegee's bend, on the bottom of the door where it curves you can bend the squeegee to match the curve run it horizontally instead of vertically remember it's easier to sand bondo smooth if it's applied smooth look at how ruff it is they way he did it always run your squeegee the long ways
@@OutlawEdge The old journeyman taught me 1/2 half of the straightening process is applying the filler on smoothly making it much easier to sand it smooth. I've seen people apply it so rough it looks like the surface of the moon. The best results are from skinning a whole panel anytime you break through or add more filler on top can create distortions.
@@OutlawEdge By the way I was twice as fast as most bodymen I worked with they were all about caking on twice as much filler as needed taking hours to knock it down with a DA-900 and bragging "I did it in one time bondo" what about all those pinholes? Me I always did two coats even on small dents, a big one I glued 24 grit to my killer Knocked it down in 5 minutes skim coated it smooth as glass and was done 1 1 1/2 hour later with no pinholes
Buddy has a sign shop and was making plexiglass covid snees guard's grabbed a bunch of cut offs and made my own version of the lucky blocks works cats ass
Great video. Explained and demonstrated very well. My cousin used to do all the body work and paint on my cars and used to explain what he was doing, like you do. Since he passed away a couple of years ago it's time for me to learn.
I use to use Feather fill spray,it super high builds,but you need to use it all as mixed for the activation is fast and can destroy a gun quickly,Evercoat,as you showed is great and so is silk,yet the super high build Epoxy pre-charge rattle cans are expensive but fast as long as you use it all once to press the button!!
Excellent video!!!THANKS!!!!!!!
30 year self employed body man with plenty of podium paint jobs. Just subscribed
Great job !!!.
The putty thrower , Poetry in motion , NICE
I have to say that’s one of the best bodywork tutorials I’ve seen in a long time! Excellent work and I can’t wait to see more videos! Thanks for the extra work Making these videos!
This is what I asked you about a week ago and instead of just send me a link to this video you took your time to explain to me what and how I should do. Thanks for taking that time to explain brother, I appreciate that!
Your very welcome brother. Thanks for watching. ARCO
Glad I found your channel you just saved me a bunch of time and money with the info you shared. Thank you.
Nice work mate I only use about four blocks I make do with other things my jobs always come up mint . After watching this I wouldn’t mind getting sone of these blocks I didn’t know existed
Nice! I am finishing up a 57 Chevy 4 dr wagon that I have owned for 20 years. I can not wait to drive her again.
Boom! Smoother than a gravy sandwich
Mmmmm gravy sandwich
Lol ARCO!!!!!!! laughed out loud seeing you even put your name on the furnace!!!! Thanks
Hahaha!!! Cause people are always busting my ballz that i write my name on everything so I couldn’t help it. 🤣😂👍
Great video's I have doing this work since the middle 60's and still doing this work in my 70's. Everything you do is "CORRECT" in my book, I always use a guide of black in my sanding processes. Keep up the good job's and I do always learn something when i watch them. Our way may not be the text book way "BUT" it is "Our Way'. Again Great Job from Alabama. Thanks ! Paul
🎉🎉🎉
You are 100% right my friend. Great job!!!
Alot of lows good way to do it. Glad to see you got the pencil off of it, lol
This was extremely helpful, thank you!
The best way to mud a car. Bumper to bumper in six days. Our mud rep recommends mixing the can prior to using. Paint shaker or stirring. The peroxide and additives settle or sit on the top. This creates pinholes from the additives separating. Love the videos. Thanks
Interesting. I was always taught over mixing and introducing air to filler causes pinholes. I am going to ask my IF Systems guy what he thinks because I know fillers have changed a lot over the years. Glad we don't have to use that nasty green or brown lacquer base spot putty that stuff was terrible haha.
@@sswcustomsewing4276 could be on some fillers. Just think if the additives are not mixed completely, some scoops will not have all the additives in that mix. We were even told to go through thermal cycles with a uv light or sit out in the sun for a few hours for each layer. It's like building a cake. Each layer has to cook completely or you will have shrinkage in between. Yes, glad to see the green lacquer stuff go away lol. Thanks
@@jamesbyers8328 I know that the mek peroxide plasticizer catalyst for styrene fiberglass resin you had to have the correct ratio when you were you were working with it or it would crack, pin holes, and not chemically dry. When I use filler I make sure that my tube of hardener is neaded and fresh I don't take chances I throw away hardener or filler if I have any doubts or if it is old. I know that my ways of doing body work even the products I use are more than likely not what most people use yet they are what I know work for what I do. The filler material he uses here I call it icing and love the stuff it saves me time along with headaches. These new products that actually dry chemically you cannot beat them. I love the catalyzed polyester or epoxy primers because they dry and you don't need to use much. The days of lacquer primers spraying it on, sanding, looking at all your money all over the place, the mess, and they were a pain. Haha the old brown Fill and Sand I do not miss that stuff at all. Or mixing up fiberglass resin and brushing it on that sucked and was not fun definitely not healthy. I am so grateful we are spoiled with new products that are not only better yet importantly safer too. I can lead yet wouldn't want to be stuck doing it or dealing with all the issues that come with working with it yuck. Can I ask what kind of fillers you use ? I appreciate your comments because I love to learn new ways of doing things. Thank you again. Please stay safe and have a great weekend.
@@sswcustomsewing4276 yes the good ol days of icing. I can't remember the name but it was in a tube. Went away from that. I was using Rage Gold and then the Ultra as a glaze or final coat before priming. I use primarily the Ultra. The rep said it wasn't necessary as long as the filler was mixed. When you open a can and all that liquid stuff sitting on top is what I'm talking about. That's the stuff that needs mixed in real good. Also keep the lid on tight and edges clean. The rep also stated evaporation of the product can lead to problems as well. Seen lots of guys leave the lid lay on top of the stick in the can lol. Your welcome. Hopefully this helps. Thank you
I have a couple of tubes of RED lacquer spot putty on the shelf next to the Delco distributor cam lube I can send if you are feeling nostalgic or starting a museum of auto history!
thanks for making this video. Im glad to see how you mixed that body fill. i could never get the hang of folding the filler with the rubber spatula. I'm gonna try the putty knife to mix it. Then use the brake clean to clean my tools. Also, good to see that even though you have bare spots that it's close enough for primer. I always worry when I get bare spots I should tap them down. Just an amateur leaning as i go. thanks for the tips
A gallon of Roberlo Maxifill cost about half of Evercoat Rage Ultra. So it is not that much waist in dollars on the floor. You could try one time just using a couple of tablespoons of Evercoat Honey additive. It may solve two problems as for the sticky skim layer on top is greatly reduced and it reduces the viscosity of the filler. I am thrifty when buying but will spend more money when it is my last build. Thank you for responding to soo many comments dude. Camera, lighting, sound, product, prep and editing is all work as well that I think many don’t consider. I have done body work, weld, electrical and seats but always on our cars. A family of 6 is not cheap with one income. Now I am paying for those 7AM - 9PM days on flat-rate at dealerships and others. Just into my 60’s and have never owned a cell phone since 2008. I was in the garage if they wanted me & magic-jack is cheap!
Thanks so much for the video. It helps me feel better about product choices in the 21st century as things keep changing. Guys & Galls both, between Roberlo and AkzelNoble they sell to the rest of the world…all of it! It is not just Valspar, 3M, PPG anymore!
Вы рассказываете про трудную жизнь
I learned the hard way when I was teaching myself body work. I used to chase the low spots all over the damn place before I figured out to just flood the whole panel with a skim coat of glaze. I like the 3M glaze but I may try the evercoat when I run out. Bet you're happy that damn cold snap is over.
You will love this evercoat brand. Yeah its warm here now 😆👍
I have a small shop and mobile unit, I learned a long time ago small jobs pay the best, 3 or 4 jobs around $300 and I'm ready to go home early.
Thanks.very good. Helps. Saves a lot of grief
I like all the video guys I watch. I really like the trend of shorter posted videos. I also like hour long ones to take a major building and explaining of why and how also.
Enjoyed this man, I am green on body work. Knowledge drop like this is very helpful
Thanks Arco 👍👍
thanks for inspiration and motivation
I really appreciate the bodywork videos. I feel like it's an art that's not always discussed. I've been trying to learn more about the different types of filler/putty. I attempted to patch bondo a fiberglass topper for k5, and after paint my work was obviously horrible.
I totally understand bro. Ive used these products for years with absolutely no shrinking. Pay the extra bucks for high quality work 👍 thanks for sharing 😃
It does take some time and practice to get all the steps and techniques figured out. I've made all the mistakes. Now I'm pretty good and much more efficient.
Another job done well Arco!
That 8 inch orbital is a beast aint it!? I love it
Great work .Thanks for sharing
A little trick I learned when knocking the glaze off the filler when first sanding is to use a damp rag with acetone or lacquer thinner on to wipe the glaze off before initial sand so the paper won't clog as easily letting the paper last longer. Keep doing the great job with the videos.
Thats a crazy trick 👍 never heard of that one. Thanks!
I do that with a little thinner wipe on wipe off it helps for sure. Learned that trick from getting the fiberglass parts out of a mold ready for finishing.
Good call …. Another basic thing I always do is use a half worn 40 grit after I cheese grate filler ( not necessary with the putty ) …. So I can go after filler with a fresh piece of 80 so it cuts perfect and doesn’t clog a new piece 👍🏻
Great explanation, back when I was doing body work, we used Bondo and Half Time and all the generic brands in between. But let me tell you, Bondo was so labor intensive but never cracked or chipped.
Enjoyed this..nice work man👍👍
Good to see it done right, guys put too much faith in hi build primers
Thanks for the video
Awesome video Arco!
Great detailed video...glad I found your channel...enjoying the content 🤝
You could save a ton of time by doing this method. Why? Because it works.
I call it curtain coverage. I also use Polyester Featherfill primer and spray & block 2 times. . He does bodywork how I do it and How it's supposed to be done!!! Great video.
You do a god job mate I’m in Australia we do full resto work along with smaller jobs in the weeks
Thanks for the lesson on bodywork using filler and time vs material cost.
If it wasn't for body filler people doing The old man I learned a lot from years ago about body work he always said
"People will say bad things about filler it has a bad name because sadly some people sculpt with the stuff these days. Yet what they don't know is body filler saved my life along with a lot of other grouchy old guys like me. Before fillers came along we used lead in my day it worked yet it was a killer. Now with filler I can do more work, I don't have problems with primer or paints, I get to have young guys like you help me get more done, and I don't have to worry about you or me getting sick from this work." I miss that old man he was extremely talented and he taught me a lot of really neat tricks. Interesting part was that old guy rarely painted cars. He would tell people " I am terrible at painting I am just a prep man my job is get it straight, clean, in primer, and ready for the painter to finish up." He never stopped doing body work and I think he was in his 80s when he passed away maybe 90. Guys like him and the gentleman on this channel who teach people from their own experience importantly from the heart they are rare.
Need a very high build sprayable filler.....( bodyman in a can)...is what we call it...3 good coats a guide coat and start wet sanding it down smooth brother!!👌👍....good spreading though nice a constant over the whole panel....that means no waves brother good job!!
Arco making Cake....🤘🏻🤘🏻
Banana 🍌
It.s good of you to share the products you use so that the people trying to learn to do their own cars arent using crap that in a few years is needing redone since I keep my cars and expect my paint jobs to last 15 to 20 years thank you
Throw a little fiberglass resin in with your plastic to thin the consistency will be just as easy to use as the ever coat glaze and save you a ton of $$$$
When doing large areas like that i find it easier to just go for it & get it stripped down to bare metal, do this process before primering & blocking to discover highs/lows..... Fillers are made specific & adhere best to bare metal, Primers are for over filler.. Even the DTMs today aren't that great IMO - Not compared to the Feather fill & Slick sand types from 20 years ago....Its good to see others from around the MN/WI area doing custom.... My buddy does custom paint/airbrush on bikes & I do the Lowriders down here in Duluth/Superior...
Sounds pretty good although blocking paint leaves scratches with more density than metal scratches for filler to bite stronger ONLY if it's factory paint. If it's been painted before other than factory, strip it. Factory paint has the best bond ever.
First, when you open the bondo, you need mix all product, then add the trigger. Second, the bondo only apply in the dented zone, AND then apply a tinny layer using a big spatula to avoid channels.
Everyone has their own ways of doing things. 👍
@@OutlawEdge sure, however when you open the bondo can, you need to mix, due to the chemicals are disociate, you need to perform a homogenizaton to preventa future problems, such as material fragmentation, Bubbles etc.
I truly appreciate your comments on mixing the filler products. Also, others may freak out that the hardener in the tube was now squished around, but if a company who delivers ands sells a lot of this product, it did not have time to separate as see when the can was opened. I has seen low spots done and entire panels finished as shown, either works and it comes down to how we were taught. If you like something that works and look nice, isn’t this how most end up married?
Retired - ASE master tech since 1978.
Nice!!!!!!!!
Thank you for sharing
Looks like Rage gold lol. Great vid. I think I saw Rage on the bench.
Its alot like rage gold. But its Roberlo maxifill 👍
I love doing body work just done the body of a 95 jeep Wrangler turned out pretty good I would send pictures don't know how be cool brother 😎 Gene Gorringe Mi ✌️
Sure glad that you cleaned off all the finger skin oil before you slicked it.
Ha! We call missed Tattoo Areas holidays, where you block colour and it heals with bits missing
Cool video 👍my wife said you sound like Ricky from the Trailer Park Boys! 🤣😂🤣
Lol 😂 👍 that’s funny
Been watching Bad Chad, he calls that flooding. Than floods a second thin coat to fill all the pin holes. Makes sense to me
Yep , I think it’s a great time saving method.
Nice.
Have you tried the maxilight? It shapes easier than anything I've ever tried. Great for body lines and complex shapes.
@@matthewallen9290 yup I actually like both for different applications
There is a situation about how vehicles are all designed. The curve on sides travel in 1 direction, up and down. From left to right it's straight as an arrow ( no curve ). When filling the whole panel you ONLY want to go in 1single direction, left too right, not up and down. If you do it up and down the first thing is you'll be using WAY more filler and it will be more difficult to straighten it. Just try to fill it length wise and long board it left and right only, you don't even have to straighten it in the crisscross pattern.
Doing that on a curved panel will not allow the flat edge of the spreader to run in the curve. You need to go with the curve or you would end up building out the curve because the spreader wouldn’t get into the dip.
@@justbreakingballs The spreader is made in plastic to have some flexibility so you can curve it with your index and pinky, notice it's the size of your hand only to have that particular curve ability?
Im just a home project guy, but i came to the same conclusion about spreading a panel with filler....after a lot of back n forth and wasted time. I want to be efficient with my spare hours.
Yes!!!!!
I just saw your channel for the 1st time and I've only got one thing to say. Your good! I'll be tuning for your tips as I'm working on my projects.
That’ll look great when finished. That’s a sweet old Plymouth in the background.
Great videos straight forward brotha. I was wondering after the whole panel is glazed and sanded to 80 grit, what’s the next step of grits you move up to? I’m having to do this to my whole car man! thanks.
After 80 grit i sand with 220 grit then three coats of high build primer. After that its kinda up to u how far u wanna go from there. Just remember the nicer the finish the nicer the paintjob. 👍😎
@@OutlawEdge sweet! I appreciate the help and information man!
I think you can use any cheap bondo and thin with bondo thinner.
hey bud, nice work, do you have to lighly sand the filler to knock the skin off the top before applying new filler?
Yes it helps to grab all the sticky top layer and then u sand the filler very easily 👍
@Outlaw Edge, I think this comment was about scuffing the low spots before adding the Roberlo Maxifill? Basically giving it a tooth to grab onto.
But honestly as a tech watching video to help me do this correctly as things, chemicals & techniques change, my hat is off to you, my friend for answering as many post as you do! I like reading after watching in case my question was answered. Regards & Blessing!
Retired mechanical tech.
Is it ok to apply body filler on top of primer instead of bare metal?
Yes its honestly up to The person applying the body filler. Myself I like to apply body filler over bare metal but other people also apply body filler over primer. Some people like to get the metal work done on the car and then epoxy the whole car in primer. Then the prep the body and spread their body filler. I like to get all the metal work done soon as that is finished I like to spread the body filler blocksand the car and Spray the primer. So honestly it’s up to you what works best. That was a great question thank you for asking. ARCO
I get a bit confused with the high & low talk. So the bare metal bits are high spots and become level with the filler face? So just primer over them and the whole panel?
@@Tassieoak no the bare metal spots are high so you would use a body hammer and tap them down a little bit. And then a small layer of filler over the top of those spots will level out the panel.
@@OutlawEdgethanks mate. I’m working on an Amphicar
@@OutlawEdgeone last thing, so tap out the high spots and primer them and then fill rather than fill over bare metal?
@@Tassieoak no u always want to use the filler on bare metal ( when possible) because it’s DTM or direct to metal. 👍
@@Tassieoak sweet! I would love to see your project! Shoot me some pics please 🙏 ARCO
Here’s my email brother
arcohorton53@gmail.com
What is the white part of the putty board your using
Its sheets of paper u rip off after each use 👍
@@OutlawEdge i thought that was what it looked like. Thanks
Sylvester Customs has a video where he mixes Evercoat Rage and Gold 50/50 and it spread really nice and gives a good work time till it kicks. Maybe you're interested? It's called "THIS NEW BODY FILLER IS REVOLUTIONARY".
Yeah he has a great channel 👍
If I tried to mix that much filler at one time it would turn to cottage cheese before I could apply half of it! How do you do it?
@@mra2957 all you gotta do is use less filler it might take longer to dry, but it gives you a lot longer span of time to spread it out
Thx, was concerned using less hardener would cause problems.
Evercoat feather fill would have been perfect for this. You can spray polyester on way more even than you can spread it.
Why didn't you just skim coat the whole panel before you primed it?
Some of the parts came to the shop that way. Or I would’ve done that 👍
It saves time to do it in two steps
Hay that long plastic lucky block just might work after you spread the body filler with the plastic spreader while the body filler it still wet. Just a thought
New sub. Look forward to checking your work out.
Thanks....
Looks good bro! Like glass! I might cut the video short right here or whatever 😂😂😂
Another excellent educational video from you sir. Few questions. What did you do with those few high spots? Also you show some oil can effect on the panel. will that cause the filler to crack if someone push on it? can that be fixed?
I softly hammered highspots down. The oilcan spots get hinges in that area that holds down the panel. So theres no chance of cracking the putty 👌🏼
How do u tell if there low and the other not mills hi where you need to sand a little more due to primer to thick when you primer and sand due to primer due to thick on spray
If u have low spots it turns lighter grey. If u have hi spots it will usually sand down to bare metal. 👍
Lookin good brother, i am going to get you a bakers hat and a white apron, LOL
Lol. Everyday i grab a coffee at the gas station the owners ask what the hell are u doing. 😂🤣😆
@@OutlawEdge simple,, tell them i am build a car to go to Sema.. thats where we will meet brother..
Personally I would have hit the entire thing with one coat of glaze. Trying to stack it you end up having the materiel sand different from one side to the other and for beginners it can end up being a pain.
What name body filler do u use
Roberlo maxifill
Can you tell me where to purchase lucky blocks ?
Luckymattsrodshop.bigcartel.com
If that Doesn’t work let me know. That is his website he’s a great guy. 👍 ARCO
What we got today?
Nice job on the panel. Do you use national Detroit air sanders? I use a 6 inch sander and it runs on much lower air pressure. Thank you enjoy your weekend!
Never heard of those to be honest 👍
Как вы считаете, какие шлифовальные машинки лучше: пневматические или Электрические?
Good morning, where do you get your Roberlo products. I hear alot of good things about their products. Thanks for the video. Take care and good luck.
They sell it on Amazon. But we get it from lakes AUTOBODY in Bemidji Minnesota 👍 thanks!
Shit I didn't know ye had roberlo over there 😂 love the pronunciation 😂 great stuff I use it of their stuff here in Ireland, do awesome clear coats too and their hi build Is the best iv ever used
Sweet I thought they only had filler. Now im gonna check out all their products. Thanks brother!
"My Friend Pete" swears by that Roberlo Maxifil....
The stuff is amazing bro 👍
@@OutlawEdge How much was your stud welder?? Is that the best thing to use on the back panel on my cab where I can't access the backside??
Yes 👍 it was about 80 bucks with extra studs at harbor freight 👌🏼
Have you ever tried "Rite Lite" filler? Wondering how it compares to the Roberlo stuff.
No but I think ive heard of the brand. But not sure bro
Have you ever used SlickSand or other polyester primers? I've heard that it sands hard.
Yup both of those are miserable to sand. They sand really hard and sticky too. Eats up sandpaper bad. And they both take forever to dry.
Has a longer dry time I'm guessing
Wow so no Poly spray or epoxy? is your primer DTM? I am having a world of trouble with all the Eastwood painting products. I am done . Going old school like you do and my old man did. Thanks for sharing.
Yes its DIRECT TO METAL. Its a great product. Just heard they are having a hard time Manufacturing the product. It really makes me mad because it’s such a good product. I hope they can keep making the stuff. Thanks for watching
@@OutlawEdge what's the name?
The primer that I use is called Showcar Finish monster Fill 500. Dont buy it on Amazon Because they are no longer selling it on there even though the ad is still up on Amazon. If you are interested in buying the stuff I can hook you up with it. If you wanna send me an email if you’re interested. arcohorton53@gmail.com
I miss watching my dad lay some bondo down
Hey did u still want to buy some mugs or tumblers? We have some in stock again
@@OutlawEdge yes I do
Please send me a message at me email bro. arcohorton53@gmail.com
Soooo, may I ask what "arco" stands for?....Is that the possible Minnesota twist on the eastcoast term of "ARGO"? Meaning what I think it stands for? Lol......Nice work. Try using a way bigger mud-board to sling/mix that mud up though (just a suggestion, IF I may be so bold lol.) But lemme guess? The probable response in return to "my suggestion"?......LOL (thumbs up)
Hey brother thats my name. But thanks for the suggestions and stopping by our channel 👍 I appreciate the nice comments. Have a blessed day bro. Arco Horton
@@OutlawEdge Oh right on man! Again, NICE work sir. You got it goings on as ya know what you are doing. Got yer razor ,chain wallet n keys on... Just like me. Lol 😁👍👊
U should just do it to the finish next time
You must be in a really cold climate here in Miami 90deg.you couldn't spend so much time mixing that filler we we mix half on the board and then as we're spreading it were mixing rest on panel👍🧐
Yeah we’re in Minnesota on the Canadian border all the way up north it gets kind of chilly lol.
ARCO
I would have coated the whole door at once chances are where the two layers of filler meet will feel funny. Also squeegee's bend, on the bottom of the door where it curves you can bend the squeegee to match the curve run it horizontally instead of vertically remember it's easier to sand bondo smooth if it's applied smooth look at how ruff it is they way he did it always run your squeegee the long ways
Honestly its whatever u prefer. There is 10 thousand ways to skin a cat. Or 10,000 ways if u know what i mean. 🤪👍
@@OutlawEdge The old journeyman taught me 1/2 half of the straightening process is applying the filler on smoothly making it much easier to sand it smooth. I've seen people apply it so rough it looks like the surface of the moon. The best results are from skinning a whole panel anytime you break through or add more filler on top can create distortions.
@@OutlawEdge By the way I was twice as fast as most bodymen I worked with they were all about caking on twice as much filler as needed taking hours to knock it down with a DA-900 and bragging "I did it in one time bondo" what about all those pinholes? Me I always did two coats even on small dents, a big one I glued 24 grit to my killer Knocked it down in 5 minutes skim coated it smooth as glass and was done 1 1 1/2 hour later with no pinholes
WHATEVER GETS THE JOB DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.....
Arco Gonna Have That Gate Slicker in Shit
Too bad you didn’t show a little bit of the sanding. Thanks 🙏
Next video I will 👍
Buddy has a sign shop and was making plexiglass covid snees guard's grabbed a bunch of cut offs and made my own version of the lucky blocks works cats ass
Man u lucked out! That stuff is exspensive bro 👍
Hmmm... luckyblocks.
Acetone and a rag is a lot cheaper than brake cleaner.....