1: Sand the tail gate with 80 grit not 220 when applying body filler. 2: Knock down the High area in the tailgate or pull out the edge of the tailgate so you don't have to build up and make a thick lip. 3: Always sand your body filler down to 220 before priming Please! 4: Use powder Guide coat it will reveal all sand scratches! 5: Give your primer plenty of dry time! Trust me on these steps! I have learned the hard way!
this gives true high end car building shops a bad wrap... i give it to them for using epoxy.. and making sure they do not break threw the epoxy .... but you never ... ever finish your body work in 80... and use your " high build" primer as a band aid... primer shrinks ... you will see those 80 grit sand marks... your body work should always be finished in atleast 180.. if not 220... you should be using a powder guide coat between your grit changes from 80 to 180 to insure you get your 80 grit sand marks out... but it said these guys build sema cars... fast... low quality .. most those cars dont get finished before they get to sema... they cant run inside so they rush them to get there and they only need to look good in pictures.... i guess this video shows that even "show car builders" are not doing it right 🤷
Lost me at building the side of the gate(thicker edge appearance) instead of removing the gate OR using a spoon and slight pressure to bring the low edge to level.
Worked in shops where we finished in 120-150 and didn’t really get trained to make sure the 80 grit marks were sanded out between skims, have worked in shops where the standard is a lot higher and bog work is always finished in 180, all lower grit marks have been taken out along the way. The quality difference is noticeable, also working to a higher grit and better finish improves your skill set
"80 grit and straight" was what the bodyman had to finish the filler with before he sent it to the painter...and that was back when we used thin watery lacquer primer. Say...there's a clue in that. Maybe don't use high build on your first coat of primer...keep it more "watery" like a regular primer. Then spray two coats of high build over it when it flashes. The problem with high build is that it is thick enough to bridge the 80 grit scratch ...without sinking in right to the bottom and filling it. Now...if you make the sand scratch even finer, the primer will bridge it easier...and over time you will see sand scratches. So I would say , finish filler not with 80 maybe...but 100-120 and no finer. I once knew a bodyman who finished his filler with 220... it always looked great , but what a waste of time!
I was all on board until he started building height on the tailgate with filler, that was excessive, needed a combo of adjusting the tailgate and bumping metal around
I work for a high-end auto restoration company, mostly doing packards, but also muscle cars. While body filler will always be used at various levels, when you have situations like the bedside tailgate issue, we would never let that much filler be at a corner point. One bump and filler can break off. Time for metal work. Also, 2-day drying time on epoxy should be sufficient. I also would fill the entire bottom of the tailgate, then cheese graded the filler for the first coat. Although we have sanding blocks as long as 4 ft. Note that the resion e coat is removed many times. Rust is left on parts before coating.
Skinning cat's whatever works for you as long as it's got longevity , two pack epoxy highbuild primers, have come a long way,but there's not substitute for nice metal work , thanks for the tips
One "Tip" regarding body filler few will share is when you're finished sanding, ready to prime, do one more step - paint Mipa over the entire area, using a brush. Yes, a brush. One coat is fine. Once you do this for the first time, you will never prime over body-filler without doing this, ever again. It eliminates so much ball-ache, it's unreal. Not gonna bore ye with the how, what why - just try it. Your filler will look like glass & blend perfectly with the surrounding surfaces - no more "show through". First time you try it, you WILL go "Wow!". It then becomes your standard pre-primer treatment. Mipa isn't cheap, but it is priceless. Never seen a single video on its use - my rationale on that is anyone that uses it doesn't want others to know the benefits & they treat it as a "Trade Secret". Which is probably fair enough. Every trade has secrets. I guess Mipa is one too.
Other HUGE benefit of using Mipa is you will see every boo-boo that would show on the final paintjob, before you shoot any paint at all. You can then address those & re-apply. It's like shooting clearcoat first, without having to - you see exactly what the final surface will look like. That alone makes it invaluable. Never mind all the other Upsides.
Yes bondo will stick to 220. Especially on epoxy because the grit can dig in more than on metal. Yes polyester primer will cover 80 and not shrink back. There are old cars in my town i did 20 years ago to prove it.
I gotta big American truck that needs body work. The cab is covered in rivets and the surface is all uneven. Should I use a paint stripper around the rivets where a DA can't reach.
Never ... ever apply filler to bare metal.. even if manufacturers say it's possible.. you can have moisture cause corrosion due to the filler being porous... it's been proven to apply epoxy primer over bare metal then apply filler over epoxy
id be tempted to use high build surfacer on those low spots ...probably skip the first blocking session all together with enough primer surfacer over epoxy and a pint of bath tub gin
Note to ALL viewers, DOES NOT speed up proper sanding, will cost you more in paper, and will require more experience. The gold standard time is 15 minutes, you cannot screw around with your adhesion by playing with the material so soon. Good general tips on the high and low spots, good trick with the knife for unwanted filler(which you do not get when you tape off) Seems a body shop does less and less these days( no surprise the guys keep getting younger and younger and all those guys want is to cut time everywhere, not use it wisely) Good video but it made the worker look like he was in his first month apprenticing. If you read this far, wear your damn MASK!
@@iNeedMoreHondas You could do 80...but if you did, you would have to spray a good coat of primer mixed to be thinner, and then follow that with two coats of high build after a good flash off period. The biggest problem with going 80 is leaving 80 marks in paint adjacent to filler, and not seeing them when you prime. 80 in paint is much worse than 80 in filler it seems. So, yeah...better to at least do 120-150...I consider 180 a waste of time , but that's me...others like it and good for them.
$50 on the table that when you close that tailgate that Bondo will pop right off and crack eventually over time on the top of that tailgate that you build up
I use to work at this shop. That is not how they do show car body work. The truck they are working on will not be a show truck. I've personally seen the the metal craftsmanship in this shop, its almost annoying how particular they are with their metal work. Speedway Motors came to them with this budget build truck thing, just because its going to SEMA doesn't mean its a $300,000 vehicle. Also everyone does body work different. he knows exactly what he is doing, he is not a hack, you just get what you pay for.
The Art of metal work, The desire for a lasting repair, and the patience to do it the right way and have pride in your work has been replaced with the industry attitude of “right now”, While throwing away “the right way”.
If for show olny body filler is Ok but it has no strength and will easily chip. Edges should be of the same material as the panels if it is ever to see any road use.
Too much work bro, I woulda Epoxy, let cure per spec, apply spray poly Then go to town with the blocks, much longer blocks that is Its far more efficient, you're burning too much time.
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1: Sand the tail gate with 80 grit not 220 when applying body filler.
2: Knock down the High area in the tailgate or pull out the edge of the tailgate so you don't have to build up and make a thick lip.
3: Always sand your body filler down to 220 before priming Please!
4: Use powder Guide coat it will reveal all sand scratches!
5: Give your primer plenty of dry time!
Trust me on these steps! I have learned the hard way!
Lay the tailgate down on a saw horse and you'll find it much easier to sand on filler all day .
Better advice than the video! thank you for sharing your EXPERIENCE and not opinions.
With all the thick bondo, will the edges chip away with a hard closing? I mean shouldn't it be done with metal work instead of body filler?
Thanks for helping DD speed shop!!! Keep helping the little guy, love your costumer service
Thank you!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. Getting ready to paint my 1996 Landcruiser.
Very nice video,clean, to the point with great info. 👍😎
this gives true high end car building shops a bad wrap... i give it to them for using epoxy.. and making sure they do not break threw the epoxy .... but you never ... ever finish your body work in 80... and use your " high build" primer as a band aid... primer shrinks ... you will see those 80 grit sand marks... your body work should always be finished in atleast 180.. if not 220... you should be using a powder guide coat between your grit changes from 80 to 180 to insure you get your 80 grit sand marks out... but it said these guys build sema cars... fast... low quality .. most those cars dont get finished before they get to sema... they cant run inside so they rush them to get there and they only need to look good in pictures.... i guess this video shows that even "show car builders" are not doing it right 🤷
@@JakeStewart1343 if he stops at 80 grit.. then primes... his sanding skills are questionable 🤔
Ikr. He lost me at applying bondo over 220 sanded areas.
Lost me at building the side of the gate(thicker edge appearance) instead of removing the gate OR using a spoon and slight pressure to bring the low edge to level.
Worked in shops where we finished in 120-150 and didn’t really get trained to make sure the 80 grit marks were sanded out between skims, have worked in shops where the standard is a lot higher and bog work is always finished in 180, all lower grit marks have been taken out along the way. The quality difference is noticeable, also working to a higher grit and better finish improves your skill set
"80 grit and straight" was what the bodyman had to finish the filler with before he sent it to the painter...and that was back when we used thin watery lacquer primer. Say...there's a clue in that. Maybe don't use high build on your first coat of primer...keep it more "watery" like a regular primer. Then spray two coats of high build over it when it flashes. The problem with high build is that it is thick enough to bridge the 80 grit scratch ...without sinking in right to the bottom and filling it. Now...if you make the sand scratch even finer, the primer will bridge it easier...and over time you will see sand scratches. So I would say , finish filler not with 80 maybe...but 100-120 and no finer. I once knew a bodyman who finished his filler with 220... it always looked great , but what a waste of time!
I was all on board until he started building height on the tailgate with filler, that was excessive, needed a combo of adjusting the tailgate and bumping metal around
Agreed. 100%
I would have tapped the panel up to raise low have you seen how body filler or spray filler act when hit against another car or brick
The shop that I work at some guys cake the filler on. The less filler you use the better
I work for a high-end auto restoration company, mostly doing packards, but also muscle cars. While body filler will always be used at various levels, when you have situations like the bedside tailgate issue, we would never let that much filler be at a corner point. One bump and filler can break off. Time for metal work. Also, 2-day drying time on epoxy should be sufficient. I also would fill the entire bottom of the tailgate, then cheese graded the filler for the first coat. Although we have sanding blocks as long as 4 ft. Note that the resion e coat is removed many times. Rust is left on parts before coating.
Skinning cat's whatever works for you as long as it's got longevity , two pack epoxy highbuild primers, have come a long way,but there's not substitute for nice metal work , thanks for the tips
One "Tip" regarding body filler few will share is when you're finished sanding, ready to prime, do one more step - paint Mipa over the entire area, using a brush. Yes, a brush. One coat is fine. Once you do this for the first time, you will never prime over body-filler without doing this, ever again. It eliminates so much ball-ache, it's unreal.
Not gonna bore ye with the how, what why - just try it. Your filler will look like glass & blend perfectly with the surrounding surfaces - no more "show through". First time you try it, you WILL go "Wow!". It then becomes your standard pre-primer treatment. Mipa isn't cheap, but it is priceless.
Never seen a single video on its use - my rationale on that is anyone that uses it doesn't want others to know the benefits & they treat it as a "Trade Secret". Which is probably fair enough. Every trade has secrets. I guess Mipa is one too.
Other HUGE benefit of using Mipa is you will see every boo-boo that would show on the final paintjob, before you shoot any paint at all. You can then address those & re-apply. It's like shooting clearcoat first, without having to - you see exactly what the final surface will look like. That alone makes it invaluable. Never mind all the other Upsides.
MIPA is a brand of paint that makes a bazillion different products. What is "MIPA" that you're talking about?
@@KyleP133 Mipa anti-corrosion coating. clear liquid, brush on.
very helpful... thank you!
A Master at work😅 !!!!!!!!
Not according to the top comment
Uh not
Yes bondo will stick to 220. Especially on epoxy because the grit can dig in more than on metal. Yes polyester primer will cover 80 and not shrink back. There are old cars in my town i did 20 years ago to prove it.
Not all Epoxy Primers sand so easily I'm wondering if that's VP-2050...
I gotta big American truck that needs body work. The cab is covered in rivets and the surface is all uneven.
Should I use a paint stripper around the rivets where a DA can't reach.
Deze man wordt niet gehinderd door enige kennis..😮😂
In Germany they use tin for welds. Never seen this in the US. Any advices to this?
Does the body filler your using say apply to bare metal or on to paint
Never ... ever apply filler to bare metal.. even if manufacturers say it's possible.. you can have moisture cause corrosion due to the filler being porous... it's been proven to apply epoxy primer over bare metal then apply filler over epoxy
So the said tailgate will never be opened and closed ?
The top of the tailgate was a perfect candidate for lead
As I see your point, have you ever dug into leaded roof seams after 20 years? Not always Purdy.
In the old days we would use a brazing rod to fill in a small spot here or there.
JB Weld!!!!
Mehhh
Nice video that's exactly how I do it👍👍🍒
The quick way
What if the tailgate is 5-10mm lower ,will you build a V!?
Bondo mobile!!
A skilled show car builder would know to cut and raise that instead of using filler to build up
id be tempted to use high build surfacer on those low spots ...probably skip the first blocking session all together with enough primer surfacer over epoxy and a pint of bath tub gin
Note to ALL viewers, DOES NOT speed up proper sanding, will cost you more in paper, and will require more experience. The gold standard time is 15 minutes, you cannot screw around with your adhesion by playing with the material so soon. Good general tips on the high and low spots, good trick with the knife for unwanted filler(which you do not get when you tape off) Seems a body shop does less and less these days( no surprise the guys keep getting younger and younger and all those guys want is to cut time everywhere, not use it wisely) Good video but it made the worker look like he was in his first month apprenticing. If you read this far, wear your damn MASK!
Says it all, show car builder, most of those cars dont run, smoke n morrors
High build 2k will not fill 80 grit. Sprayable polyester will, such as raderal or reface. The high build will sink under the sun.
220 grit and then fill lol? The true professionals are few and far between.
I personally wouldn't go finer than 180, would be between 120 and 180 for me & I wouldn't leave the filler in 80👀
@@iNeedMoreHondas You could do 80...but if you did, you would have to spray a good coat of primer mixed to be thinner, and then follow that with two coats of high build after a good flash off period. The biggest problem with going 80 is leaving 80 marks in paint adjacent to filler, and not seeing them when you prime. 80 in paint is much worse than 80 in filler it seems. So, yeah...better to at least do 120-150...I consider 180 a waste of time , but that's me...others like it and good for them.
In a high turnover shop the push 80 grit to save the shop money
Totally fine over epoxy, it aint coming off
This guy must charge 30k for body and paint got a lot of time and the ticket .lol
$50 on the table that when you close that tailgate that Bondo will pop right off and crack eventually over time on the top of that tailgate that you build up
It's just for show and will hardly ever get used
Nope, not over the epoxy it won't.
If it was applied over bare metal, that's more likely
But not over epoxy, that shit is literally glue.
I use to work at this shop. That is not how they do show car body work. The truck they are working on will not be a show truck. I've personally seen the the metal craftsmanship in this shop, its almost annoying how particular they are with their metal work. Speedway Motors came to them with this budget build truck thing, just because its going to SEMA doesn't mean its a $300,000 vehicle. Also everyone does body work different. he knows exactly what he is doing, he is not a hack, you just get what you pay for.
So what about lead filler?
Americans love the bondo
Not all of us
Scotch bright for filler? I guess show cars never get used so it doesn't need to be durable.
Scotchbrite for the epoxy
I always wondered why show cars looked a bit off to me. Now I know it is because some guy bondo'd the crap out out of it.
The Art of metal work, The desire for a lasting repair, and the patience to do it the right way and have pride in your work has been replaced with the industry attitude of “right now”, While throwing away “the right way”.
What do they say about women who use too much makeup? "Powder and paint, to make them what they ain't".
If for show olny body filler is Ok but it has no strength and will easily chip. Edges should be of the same material as the panels if it is ever to see any road use.
Now i see why show cars are so expensive.
Most experts use splines
500 hrs of body work
This should be done by metal work, not with body filler. one bump or smash closing of the tailgate and it will come off.
Take the tailgate off really
I think it’s gotta be installed to even it all out “together “
There are several things done here that I absolutely do not agree with. This is what is wrong with "show" car bodywork.
Just found ya. Come find me.
Too much work bro, I woulda Epoxy, let cure per spec, apply spray poly
Then go to town with the blocks, much longer blocks that is
Its far more efficient, you're burning too much time.