I don't understand why 13 people disliked this video. It's free education and provides information to beginner and expert alike. I've just started a job where I use filler and I have learned a lot already watching these .
Jerry you are the clearest, best body repair teacher out there. I have memory fog at 73yrs old and I go back for refreshers every time before I decide to work on my old truck. THANK YOU!
I’m attempting to fill a fend on my car and this video helped a lot not just with knowledge but to cherish your old folks dads and gramps they have knowledge. I wish my dad was still around so I can sit and watch him work one more time.
You're the first to alert me about using too fine of paper in a prior video and how it will skip over working the filler down. Even though i had that very problem doing filler, I didn't realize too fine of paper would get you. I thought it just may take longer. Fallowing your advice I'm not having those issues anymore. Thanks so much for these videos. They've made my life so much easier when doing filler.
I'm so happy to hear that. I'm glad it made life easier for you too. Thanks for the support and you're very welcome. Have a good weekend my friend. Keep me updated on any projects you do - have a good weekend :)
Bro 😎 I know nothin on doing body work, but inherited a 1969 Chevy impala and did the metal work to replace the rust, but your knowledge is worth millions for me as I am now doing the bondo and thanks 🙏 for sharing your experience it help me a lot!!!!!!
That was an awesome visual learning tool. I had never realized that using too fine sandpaper when blocking would leave the hump of filler. The way you presented it makes perfect sense!
not sure if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are stoned like me during the covid times then you can watch all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend for the last few months xD
Glad you like those types of videos my friend. I'll keep doing them. I do have a whole list of ones like that I have to get to from questions folks ask but been really busy lately. I'll get to them though - thanks for watching and the support :)
I watch every one of your video's and keep learning from you. This video was so simple but covered really important steps when using and sanding filler. Absolutely excellent tutorial Thankyou for sharing
A great demonstration. I need to buy a better file after watching this. I have the same red sanding block. I've used it for about 40 years. Thanks for a good video.
Seriously thank you, a few videos and i was able to fix someones car i tapped the other day. Bought them a new tail some compound polish and a dime size area of filler is the only thing that was scaring me but your videos made me feel very confident.
Well explained always love these short videos I think you should do more of these video you explained well on the flat serfice now I would not mind seeing the Same video but on a curved panal thank you for the video jery always looking out for you
You're welcome. You can't force it - have to let the sharp sand paper and the straight board do the work. I think the most important thing is sharp, aggressive sand paper to cut through instead of riding over :)
Thanks so much for this video. I’ve been having so many problems getting my bondo flat. I was making a million mistakes. Makes me feel so much more confident about it.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I do have one more. What grit should I use on the fenders? They’re the fiberglass\hard plastic type and I used dome Bo do to fix a few cracks and I don’t want to tear it up with the 60 or 80 grit.
@@sonnysmith2991 You'll be fine doing your rough work with 120 grit - even 80 grit if it doesn't prove to be to agressive. Block sanding primer surfacer with 120-180. Finish sanding your last coat of primer with anything from 240-320 - you can even get away with painting over 220 grit.
@@LakesideAutobody it turned out so much better than it was. I really appreciate the advice. Now should I compound it, then clear coat or clear coat, then compound it?
Like a school but better explained. Thanks for these videos. I'll be doing my 03 Ram ,totally body restoration and I'm going in with nothing but YT videos and the will complete this. I follow lots of your videos.
good lesson,I'd like to think auto body instructors would recommend things like this to students,all I had were the older guys to teach me in the 80's and 90's
Hi Jerry, I think your just great. Learning and practicing and getting better each day! Thanks for sharing all your experience. Your Chanel’s production is really about perfect. Your friendly and I learn better because you stay on topic. Thanks so much !
I've always had issues thinking i was done sanding ready for primer or didn't use enough filler then starting sanding and had to start over. Thanks Jerry always informative
Thank you for sharing this secret I’ve been struggling with body filler adding and removing, vicious cycle, no one and I mean no one on RUclips has ever explained it well like you have. You’ve saved me a lot of work. By the way what body filler do you recommend? I usually by the can that says Bondo on it, bit not sure if that’s a good one, someone told me that one shrinks. Thanks again!
No body filler shrinks. I think folks like to say stuff like that 'cause it makes them sound knowledgeable. I buy the cheapest filler I can find. It's all the same. It's all made with the same materials. Some have fancier names, stuff added, etc. but it's the same - don't let anyone convince you otherwise. Always feel free to ask ?s - even if they seem simple or you should know :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry, thank you. Living in greece is nice. Greece is one of the best places to visit for holidays i think. I wish you all the best Jerry and thank you again for all your really helpful videos.
All these years I have been sanding and sanding and sanding some more. I do use that Sureform rasp but I never thought about doing it to get the majority of the filler down. Jerry your videos are short and right to the point. And I can tell that you do the work cuz your hands are all dirty and cut. Thanks for the video
Just want to say thank you so much for one key advise nobody ever says, I always start with 100 grid and wonder why I have to keep re applying, it’s because it’s too fine of a sand paper. Since watching this video I start with 40, then 80, then 180. After that apply a super thin coat fine filler and sand that with 220 and ready for primer, never get sandpaper marks and stuff
By the way thanks for everything you do and you are the reason that I am even going to even try to do this I have learned so much from you thank you for all your videos
oh my god! i had to use filler when i am repainting my guitar, and i though that i had to use very fine sand paper so i wouldnt sand too much. I used 600 grit paper for hours, finally got the patch straight just to notice it had eaten up the wood next to it. So i had to fill those too. This saved my day.
Hired a guy once,a greenhorn.I left to get paint.And when I got back he used up three boxes of my 3000 trizact trying to flatten body filler.Poor guy had to let him go,just wasn't following directions.But He sure left that body filler glossy as hell.🤭🤭🤭
Good story. My boss told a new guy that was installing a set of running boards on a pickup, "What every you do - don't cut them too short." You guessed it. He didn't last very long either.
Thanks v8man - you got good taste in music. I think that riff has a bit of potential too. Could be a pretty cool beginning of a Sabbath tune or something. Glad you enjoyed it :) BTW I have a 350 in that white Chevy 4X4 I've done a few videos on - that thing has 275,000 miles on it and its the smoothest running truck I've ever owned. Almost turn the key when its running!
Very good! That's how you do it and make money. You can leave the block out of it and use 36 grit on a mud hog first (after the file). Prime it and block with 80 grit. then prime it again and block with 180. Prime again and sand with 320 then paint.
You are a great teacher Jerry. Clear and to the point. This is one I will watch several times! Do you have a spot putty that you recommend that has minimal shrinkage for filling deep scratches and small imperfections? Thanks Tom
For deep scratches or imperfections it's good to use a 2 part putty like - www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100400/us/ For real minor stuff you'll be fine with something like this: www.amazon.com/Bondo-Brand-Company-651-Glazingspot/dp/B002Q1AHP4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=NTUHDWWJAIYR&dchild=1&keywords=bondo+glazing+putty&qid= Thanks for the support and have a good weekend :)
I use a paintstick cause someone keeps stealing my blocks. can you make a tutorial on how to hide your sanding blocks and or retrieving a missing block without the use of throwing wrenches?
Oh man, I'm doing a fiberglass kit and one corner looks nothing like the other corner. I've had some luck with a couple of contour gauges and cardboard templates to get the basic shape. It was so bad I didn't know what to do,so I taped graph paper on it and plotted it out basically. Yeesh! Anyway, I've been using resin and microbaloons,or milled glass fibers for real thick fill areas. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this ,but it's really helped me a lot ,and that's putting tape on top of the filler. It seems like I can stretch it around a corner when the filler is wet and get a better corner and less sanding. Haha I'm just hoping to learn enough to save a lot of money before this thing gets painted. I've got the beginning of the project on my channel, but TBH it's been such an overwhelming project I've got the last 2yrs of it filmed ,but no time to edit and upload, hah I need a producer 😂
4:38 I didn't know it was legal to go in circles while blocking 😃 I can do that ? I thought you had to do the usual back and forth, then up and down ,and then an X across that to get it flat.
@@MrTheHillfolk You can go in any direction you need to get the panel straight. Do not listen to that - it's internet stuff. In fact circles help a lot in certain situations - as long as you are not constantly using the same pattern, you're fine :)
@@LakesideAutobody good deal, I've picked up alot of handy tips so far and will be trying alot of them very soon, I get a few evenings during the week for the project. Kinda can't wait to see better and faster results 👍
Great Video regarding the right Paper. Why wouldn’t you use a Long Board as the surrounding area is flat and wouldn’t allow you to take too much off. Also why wouldn’t you use a Straight Edge to check for highs or lows?….and no guide coat.
You'll use a long board or medium (10") board when blocking (block sanding your primer surfacer). You could used it now but you'll end up with sand scratches in the paint surrounding the dent. You'll have to DA sand those out or you'll end up possibly seeing those down the road in the paint job. A straight edge can never tell you enough - you'll get it absolutely perfect when you block sand your primer (with a guide coat). You never need a guide coat with filler. Generally you get it super close with filler.... then perfection with primer surfacer :)
@@LakesideAutobody Well that makes sense… I wasn’t trying to tell you what to do as you obviously know what to do, I guess I was jumping the Gun… Thanks for the advice.
Excellent video thanks. I have a bad habit of getting impatient and feathering edges too soon, see the error of my ways now. Did lots of Internet research and many advocate epoxy primer to encapsulate rust. However, I want to be able to put body fill over primer to fix low spots. A Urethane primer surfacer may be a better choice, am I correct?
Yes - primer surfacer (urethane, lacquer, or polyester) is the answer to block sanding and getting a dent perfectly straight. Epoxy primer doesn't build thickness or sand very easily :)
Would it make any sense to use Epoxy as the foundation to encapsulate the surface then cover it with a primer surfacer; or is that overkill? Time and extra cost would not be an issue. I’m not concerned at all about flash rust. However, the micro pitting and pock marks led me to believe epoxy was necessary. My car is completely sanded down to metal. I am now In the process of applying fill DTM and block sanding of areas I had to weld in patches.
@@frankkennedy5361 Really you only need to use epoxy if you are going to leave it outside for a long time before working on it again. Otherwise use DTM urethane, lacquer, or polyester (only for really rough areas) primer surfacer. Up to you though - epoxy is not going to make or break the paint job :)
@@LakesideAutobody Car will rarely be outside except on good weather days. Appreciate your reply. I have learned much from your videos. You make things look uncomplicated and I like your no nonsense narration that support the videos.
Great point about the fine paper. I have definitely been there. Making a hump smooth but the hump is still there lol. So true. I have never used the cheese grader. I may try it. Great vid as always Jerry!
Try it! Just start by taking off the ridges and quit there. Go to your paper. Next time you'll be like...hey, "that worked fast and easy - I'll take off some more" The game will change big after that - I promise - saves you lungs too :)
Block sanded the dry erase board! Awesome demo there, guy at the bar was laughing when I said I made the mistake of block sanding drywall mud work like a car haha 😆 I got some USC brand filler all grip 47, stuff really sands well and made feathering make more sense to me, it was like $35 gallon 🤘🏽
This may sound nuts but my wife and I bought an old bungalow just outside of Detroit in the 90's and I fixed all the plaster cracks with body filler (couldn't wait for drywall mud to dry) and the bondo hog. V'd them out a bit, spread the filler, blocked them and painted. The cracks never came back in the 21 years we lived there. My new father in law thought I was an idiot :)
This will show how to do it. You generally use 120 on a DA first then 220 out further or scuff out further so that you don't get primer on shiny paint.
Glad you like them - I use Auto Body Master lightweight body filler from the local Auto Value auto parts stores. Any cheap filler will work fine - it's really all the same materials - sort of like motor oil :) Anyway - I try to keep the price at around $20 for a gallon of filler. This stuff is $19 / gal . Have3 a good week Chris.
You should show how to use guide coat , guide coat the dented area to show the exact damage and how large of an area you need to grind clean, then feather the paint edges, then Bondo and more guide coat , no guess work that way and you can see perfectly how straight and sanded correctly no guessing , that helps the diy guys a bunch
Awesome video. I have one question, at the end of the video you said Im gonna hit this with the D.A and then prime the panel. Did you go over the entire repair with the DA or just the edges? And what grit sand paper was used?
Good question. Just feathered the edges. You can start with 120 and as you move out further (don't want primer on shiny paint) you switch to 220-240 and then even further out you can scuff with the red scuff pad (optional) but just to make sure primer goes on prepared paint :)
Filler sticks best to the scratches made by a fresh 36 grit fiber resin disc on slow speed. The DA would smooth out the metal or even shine it a bit if the paper was dull. Jooathan Yates made a good point too. I used 120 at first and finished with 220 then scuffed and primed.
@@mfwwhelan7561 Yes - any paint that is in perfect condition, you can just scuff with this: www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/3m-scotch-brite-general-purpose-pad-maroon-07447/3m-view-all? For example parts that the DA can't reach, areas that you would like to blend paint onto, areas that primer may hit further out than your DA went, edges, tight corners, etc. Hope that helps :)
This one will do you just fine - this one is from 1986 - the pad wore out so I replaced it with a sole from a flip flop sandal from dollar general - it was really flat and had the right amount of give - too soft (no good) too hard (no good). Glad you enjoy the videos and you are learning a lot - have a good weekend my friend :)
I do the initial with p40, then 80 to start a feather edge, then 180 to finish it off.
I don't understand why 13 people disliked this video. It's free education and provides information to beginner and expert alike. I've just started a job where I use filler and I have learned a lot already watching these .
Thanks for the support Darkwillow - I appreciate that :)
Most of the time people dislike videos on accident. I’ve done it before when I’ve gone back to old videos.
@@darkwillow57 i mean to be fair 3500 people liked it
@@rosshopkins2063 you're right. It doesn't matter what you post somebody will be contrarien
@@darkwillow57 the good old days when we could see dislikes
Jerry you are the clearest, best body repair teacher out there. I have memory fog at 73yrs old and I go back for refreshers every time before I decide to work on my old truck. THANK YOU!
You're welcome Gordon - I appreciate the support my friend. Have a great week :)
Hands down, the best explanation for flat body repair on RUclips.
I appreciate that - thanks for your comment 👍😊
I don't think I've ever learned this much in 8 minutes! Thank you for the clear, concise education
You're welcome my friend - thanks for watching :)
I’m attempting to fill a fend on my car and this video helped a lot not just with knowledge but to cherish your old folks dads and gramps they have knowledge. I wish my dad was still around so I can sit and watch him work one more time.
You're the first to alert me about using too fine of paper in a prior video and how it will skip over working the filler down. Even though i had that very problem doing filler, I didn't realize too fine of paper would get you. I thought it just may take longer. Fallowing your advice I'm not having those issues anymore. Thanks so much for these videos. They've made my life so much easier when doing filler.
I'm so happy to hear that. I'm glad it made life easier for you too. Thanks for the support and you're very welcome. Have a good weekend my friend. Keep me updated on any projects you do - have a good weekend :)
Same!!!!
666 the 6th
Like wise, what a life saver. I couldn't figure out what was wrong and why I had humps everywhere now I know thank you 🙏 for the awesome knowledge
Bro 😎 I know nothin on doing body work, but inherited a 1969 Chevy impala and did the metal work to replace the rust, but your knowledge is worth millions for me as I am now doing the bondo and thanks 🙏 for sharing your experience it help me a lot!!!!!!
You found the right channel if you want to get good at rust repairs, large dents, collision, etc. Feel free to ask ?s too - I get to them every day :)
Probably one of the best autobody channels on youtube. learned more in several videos than in autobody class.
I appreciate that Jimmy :)
Your illustration ,was the best I've seen explained in 50 yrs working on cars. GREAT !
Thanks MindDezign. I really appreciate that. Have a great week my friend :)
Great explanation on how to do the feathering. Thanks Jerry. Have a good week AL
Thanks 👍 - have a good week :)
Great video. Been a few years since I used filler. Starting a new project. This is a great reminder.
One of the best in the business…another great video Jerry!
Thanks UPK - nice to always hear from you :)
@@LakesideAutobody where is you shop . You are great
@@NasirKhan-ll5ci Northern Michigan - St. Helen - Have a good weekend Nasir.
Good demo....that was my problem when I first started... Not starting off rough enough.....
Thanks for the support KC - have a good weekend:)
EXCELLENT VISUAL . THANK YOU JERRY. The cheese grater tip you taught me has been invaluable.
Good advice. At the shop we refer to 40 and 80 as cheese graters
That was an awesome visual learning tool. I had never realized that using too fine sandpaper when blocking would leave the hump of filler. The way you presented it makes perfect sense!
Thanks for the support Clark. Have a great weekend and thanks for watching :)
You can’t go wrong, following that advice! 👍
not sure if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are stoned like me during the covid times then you can watch all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend for the last few months xD
@Tatum Deshawn definitely, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D
@Tatum Deshawn Definitely, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :)
3 years later and still extremely helpful. Thank you sir, much appreciated 👍
Glad it helped - have a good week :)
Recently discovered your channel......plz keep doing these short steps vids, I learn something new every time.
Glad you like those types of videos my friend. I'll keep doing them. I do have a whole list of ones like that I have to get to from questions folks ask but been really busy lately. I'll get to them though - thanks for watching and the support :)
You're a great teacher, thank you for all of your content.
I appreciate that Lumpy - enjoy the week :)
I watch every one of your video's and keep learning from you.
This video was so simple but covered really important steps when using and sanding filler. Absolutely excellent tutorial
Thankyou for sharing
Thanks so much - glad to hear that :)
A great demonstration. I need to buy a better file after watching this. I have the same red sanding block. I've used it for about 40 years. Thanks for a good video.
You're welcome RS - have a good week :)
Very well presented, showing the concept in an easy to understand manner, then taking that concept and showing real example. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful - you're very welcome :)
My new favorite channel.
Thanks - that made my day - glad you like it Chris. Have a good week :)
Seriously thank you, a few videos and i was able to fix someones car i tapped the other day. Bought them a new tail some compound polish and a dime size area of filler is the only thing that was scaring me but your videos made me feel very confident.
Great to hear - glad they could help. Thanks for watching :)
Thank you I appreciate your lessons very much 😊 you explain things very well and make it easy to understand 😊
You're very welcome - glad they help and you appreciate the style of teaching :)
Well explained always love these short videos I think you should do more of these video you explained well on the flat serfice now I would not mind seeing the Same video but on a curved panal thank you for the video jery always looking out for you
Good suggestion Husky - I'll put that on the list of videos to make. Glad you appreciate the content. Have a good weekend my friend :)
I always learn a thing or two whenever I watch your videos, Thanks Jerry! BA
You're welcome BA :)
awesome demo!!!
Thanks for the pointers! Remembering to stay ON TOP of the filler and not forcing the feathering. That's the part I have the hardest time with.
You're welcome. You can't force it - have to let the sharp sand paper and the straight board do the work. I think the most important thing is sharp, aggressive sand paper to cut through instead of riding over :)
I appreciate you grinding your metal instead of putting filler over paint
Thanks - couldn't put filler over paint where I worked. If you did, you better get it primed quick before the boss saw it :)
Great quick videos- excellent work- i love your channel ! im able to do body work finally thanks to you. You get right to the point which i love.
Thank you so much for the support - love to hear stuff like that :)
Still learning excellent.Thanks
Thanks so much for this video. I’ve been having so many problems getting my bondo flat. I was making a million mistakes. Makes me feel so much more confident about it.
Keep at it Sonny - ask any questions - even if you think they are silly - usually those are the ones that make the biggest difference :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I do have one more. What grit should I use on the fenders? They’re the fiberglass\hard plastic type and I used dome Bo do to fix a few cracks and I don’t want to tear it up with the 60 or 80 grit.
@@sonnysmith2991 You'll be fine doing your rough work with 120 grit - even 80 grit if it doesn't prove to be to agressive. Block sanding primer surfacer with 120-180. Finish sanding your last coat of primer with anything from 240-320 - you can even get away with painting over 220 grit.
@@LakesideAutobody it turned out so much better than it was. I really appreciate the advice. Now should I compound it, then clear coat or clear coat, then compound it?
@@sonnysmith2991 If you painted it, you would clear coat the base coat then lightly wet sand out any dust nibs and compound it or just compound.
Like a school but better explained. Thanks for these videos. I'll be doing my 03 Ram ,totally body restoration and I'm going in with nothing but YT videos and the will complete this. I follow lots of your videos.
Ask any ?s along the way. I answer comments 1-2 times a day. Jerry
good lesson,I'd like to think auto body instructors would recommend things like this to students,all I had were the older guys to teach me in the 80's and 90's
Thanks Richard - have a good end of the week my friend :)
Hi Jerry, I think your just great. Learning and practicing and getting better each day! Thanks for sharing all your experience.
Your Chanel’s production is really about perfect. Your friendly and I learn better because you stay on topic. Thanks so much !
You're very welcome Eric - glad you enjoy the videos :)
Wow i love your teaching skills. This channel is my autobody school 👨🎓👍
I appreciate that Vicshone - makes my day. Have a good weekend :)
This is exactly the advice I needed, thanks!!!
You're so welcome - glad it helped :)
Good tips on taking down Bondo. Much appreciated!!!
Glad you liked it - have a good weekend :)
Excellent clear explanation
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Great video. I have just learnt something from you. Cheers
That's good to hear :)
I've always had issues thinking i was done sanding ready for primer or didn't use enough filler then starting sanding and had to start over. Thanks Jerry always informative
That's very common - hope this helps out a bit :)
Best video on RUclips, good job sir
Thanks my friend - have a good weekend and thanks for watching :)
Awesome job, as always!
If you need some panels to work on.
My 2007 silverado needs rockers.
Lol
I'll keep that in mind :)
Thats great guidance Jerry ….. Cheers
Thank you for sharing this secret I’ve been struggling with body filler adding and removing, vicious cycle, no one and I mean no one on RUclips has ever explained it well like you have. You’ve saved me a lot of work. By the way what body filler do you recommend? I usually by the can that says Bondo on it, bit not sure if that’s a good one, someone told me that one shrinks.
Thanks again!
No body filler shrinks. I think folks like to say stuff like that 'cause it makes them sound knowledgeable. I buy the cheapest filler I can find. It's all the same. It's all made with the same materials. Some have fancier names, stuff added, etc. but it's the same - don't let anyone convince you otherwise. Always feel free to ask ?s - even if they seem simple or you should know :)
Ok thanks, I think the angle grinder and flap disc was my issue. I need to use blocks and be patient. Thank you for responding
When I sand mine it doesn't look like that
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome Cody - glad you like the videos. Have a good week :)
Well explained and illustrated. Your techniques and examples are practical and extremely useful. Thank you.
You're welcome Frank - have a good day :)
thanks, really helps.
Really really really nice videos..thank you very much for all the knowledge you give to the people. Greetings from sunny Greece :)
You're very welcome John. Wow! Greece. Sounds nice. How's living in Greece? What parts are you from? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry, thank you. Living in greece is nice. Greece is one of the best places to visit for holidays i think. I wish you all the best Jerry and thank you again for all your really helpful videos.
All these years I have been sanding and sanding and sanding some more. I do use that Sureform rasp but I never thought about doing it to get the majority of the filler down. Jerry your videos are short and right to the point. And I can tell that you do the work cuz your hands are all dirty and cut. Thanks for the video
I'm glad it helped you out - you're welcome my friend :)
60% of the time I get it right every time. Watching these videos I get it right 100% of the time the first time
That makes my day. Thanks for the support Damien - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody I’ve come along way watching yours and a couple other channels and A LOT of trial and error. You are appreciated sir.
Well that explains my issue 😂. Time to start over. Appreciate the tutorial.
You're welcome. 👍😊
So that's how it's done ! Thank you again, have a great weekend ..
Thanks, you too my friend :)
Have a great weekend Jerry!
You too Jim :)
Best video I’ve seen on this thanks you.
You're welcome Ricky - have a good weekend :)
Good job 👍🏾
Just want to say thank you so much for one key advise nobody ever says, I always start with 100 grid and wonder why I have to keep re applying, it’s because it’s too fine of a sand paper. Since watching this video I start with 40, then 80, then 180. After that apply a super thin coat fine filler and sand that with 220 and ready for primer, never get sandpaper marks and stuff
That's great to hear - that's how it's done. Thanks for the kind words and have a great week my friend :)
Thanks, great simple advice.
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it Alan :)
By the way thanks for everything you do and you are the reason that I am even going to even try to do this I have learned so much from you thank you for all your videos
You're welcome Darrel - I appreciate that. Let me know how your projects go and if you need to ask stuff - feel free.
Great👍👍👍👍👍👍 explain sir ur no 1
Thanks DD I appreciate that. Glad you liked it and hope it helps out :)
Excellent presentation skills. I mean that, very well done.
Thank you very much J M - I appreciate the support :)
Great video. Please what is address of your auto body shop
you should have been a instructor you are awesome my friend keep it up we love it.
Thanks David - I'll keep them coming - Happy Holidays my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody i hope you have a great christmas and a awesome new year my friend god bless
Good videos. I Learned many new technics watching your videos✌✌💪💪
Thanks a lot - it's good to hear things like that - good motivation :)
Fantastic info
Glad it was helpful 👍
Outstanding explanation !!
Thanks Don - have a good weekend :)
best filler video on you tube
Thanks Lazy C. I appreciate the comment - have a good weekend :)
oh my god! i had to use filler when i am repainting my guitar, and i though that i had to use very fine sand paper so i wouldnt sand too much. I used 600 grit paper for hours, finally got the patch straight just to notice it had eaten up the wood next to it. So i had to fill those too. This saved my day.
Wow! I'm surprised you were able to knock it down with that 600 - must have taken quite a long time :)
how did your hands feel after you were done 😂
Awesome job. I learn so much from you. Thank you for making these videos.
You're welcome - glad you appreciate them and you're welcome :)
feathered right in ...nice.
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Hired a guy once,a greenhorn.I left to get paint.And when I got back he used up three boxes of my 3000 trizact trying to flatten body filler.Poor guy had to let him go,just wasn't following directions.But He sure left that body filler glossy as hell.🤭🤭🤭
🤣 That's a good one... 👍
Good story. My boss told a new guy that was installing a set of running boards on a pickup, "What every you do - don't cut them too short." You guessed it. He didn't last very long either.
Great advice Jerry, by the way love the intro music 🎶👍🏻
Thanks v8man - you got good taste in music. I think that riff has a bit of potential too. Could be a pretty cool beginning of a Sabbath tune or something. Glad you enjoyed it :) BTW I have a 350 in that white Chevy 4X4 I've done a few videos on - that thing has 275,000 miles on it and its the smoothest running truck I've ever owned. Almost turn the key when its running!
@@LakesideAutobody Sabbath sounds about right, sweet truck the 350 Chevy engine is a tough engine, long may your truck run 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent video and thx
You're welcome Jeremy.
Very good! That's how you do it and make money. You can leave the block out of it and use 36 grit on a mud hog first (after the file). Prime it and block with 80 grit. then prime it again and block with 180. Prime again and sand with 320 then paint.
Thanks for the input David - that's how you make money :)
Have you seen the price of a quality primer lately?
You are a great teacher Jerry. Clear and to the point. This is one I will watch several times! Do you have a spot putty that you recommend that has minimal shrinkage for filling deep scratches and small imperfections?
Thanks
Tom
For deep scratches or imperfections it's good to use a 2 part putty like - www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100400/us/ For real minor stuff you'll be fine with something like this: www.amazon.com/Bondo-Brand-Company-651-Glazingspot/dp/B002Q1AHP4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=NTUHDWWJAIYR&dchild=1&keywords=bondo+glazing+putty&qid= Thanks for the support and have a good weekend :)
Another excellent video......
Thanks again Bruce - have a good weekend :)
Thanks Jerry... You too...:)
I use a paintstick cause someone keeps stealing my blocks.
can you make a tutorial on how to hide your sanding blocks and or retrieving a missing block without the use of throwing wrenches?
Oh man, I'm doing a fiberglass kit and one corner looks nothing like the other corner.
I've had some luck with a couple of contour gauges and cardboard templates to get the basic shape.
It was so bad I didn't know what to do,so I taped graph paper on it and plotted it out basically.
Yeesh!
Anyway, I've been using resin and microbaloons,or milled glass fibers for real thick fill areas.
I'm sure I'm not the first to do this ,but it's really helped me a lot ,and that's putting tape on top of the filler.
It seems like I can stretch it around a corner when the filler is wet and get a better corner and less sanding.
Haha I'm just hoping to learn enough to save a lot of money before this thing gets painted.
I've got the beginning of the project on my channel, but TBH it's been such an overwhelming project I've got the last 2yrs of it filmed ,but no time to edit and upload, hah I need a producer 😂
4:38 I didn't know it was legal to go in circles while blocking 😃
I can do that ?
I thought you had to do the usual back and forth, then up and down ,and then an X across that to get it flat.
@@MrTheHillfolk You can go in any direction you need to get the panel straight. Do not listen to that - it's internet stuff. In fact circles help a lot in certain situations - as long as you are not constantly using the same pattern, you're fine :)
@@LakesideAutobody good deal, I've picked up alot of handy tips so far and will be trying alot of them very soon, I get a few evenings during the week for the project.
Kinda can't wait to see better and faster results 👍
Great Video regarding the right Paper. Why wouldn’t you use a Long Board as the surrounding area is flat and wouldn’t allow you to take too much off. Also why wouldn’t you use a Straight Edge to check for highs or lows?….and no guide coat.
You'll use a long board or medium (10") board when blocking (block sanding your primer surfacer). You could used it now but you'll end up with sand scratches in the paint surrounding the dent. You'll have to DA sand those out or you'll end up possibly seeing those down the road in the paint job. A straight edge can never tell you enough - you'll get it absolutely perfect when you block sand your primer (with a guide coat). You never need a guide coat with filler. Generally you get it super close with filler.... then perfection with primer surfacer :)
@@LakesideAutobody
Well that makes sense… I wasn’t trying to tell you what to do as you obviously know what to do, I guess I was jumping the Gun… Thanks for the advice.
Excellent video thanks. I have a bad habit of getting impatient and feathering edges too soon, see the error of my ways now.
Did lots of Internet research and many advocate epoxy primer to encapsulate rust. However, I want to be able to put body fill over primer to fix low spots. A Urethane primer surfacer may be a better choice, am I correct?
Yes - primer surfacer (urethane, lacquer, or polyester) is the answer to block sanding and getting a dent perfectly straight. Epoxy primer doesn't build thickness or sand very easily :)
Would it make any sense to use Epoxy as the foundation to encapsulate the surface then cover it with a primer surfacer; or is that overkill? Time and extra cost would not be an issue. I’m not concerned at all about flash rust. However, the micro pitting and pock marks led me to believe epoxy was necessary. My car is completely sanded down to metal. I am now In the process of applying fill DTM and block sanding of areas I had to weld in patches.
@@frankkennedy5361 Really you only need to use epoxy if you are going to leave it outside for a long time before working on it again. Otherwise use DTM urethane, lacquer, or polyester (only for really rough areas) primer surfacer. Up to you though - epoxy is not going to make or break the paint job :)
@@LakesideAutobody Car will rarely be outside except on good weather days. Appreciate your reply. I have learned much from your videos. You make things look uncomplicated and I like your no nonsense narration that support the videos.
@@frankkennedy5361 Thanks Frank - appreciate the support. Have a good weekend :)
Thanks for the tip 👍
You're welcome Jesse :)
Great point about the fine paper. I have definitely been there. Making a hump smooth but the hump is still there lol. So true.
I have never used the cheese grader. I may try it.
Great vid as always Jerry!
Try it! Just start by taking off the ridges and quit there. Go to your paper. Next time you'll be like...hey, "that worked fast and easy - I'll take off some more" The game will change big after that - I promise - saves you lungs too :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes. Lungs! Good point. Haveca good weekend
He just showed us how to skip on using guide coat what a boss always good video and tips
Thanks for the support - have a good weekend ej8 :)
Block sanded the dry erase board! Awesome demo there, guy at the bar was laughing when I said I made the mistake of block sanding drywall mud work like a car haha 😆 I got some USC brand filler all grip 47, stuff really sands well and made feathering make more sense to me, it was like $35 gallon 🤘🏽
This may sound nuts but my wife and I bought an old bungalow just outside of Detroit in the 90's and I fixed all the plaster cracks with body filler (couldn't wait for drywall mud to dry) and the bondo hog. V'd them out a bit, spread the filler, blocked them and painted. The cracks never came back in the 21 years we lived there. My new father in law thought I was an idiot :)
Thanks! But I wish you’d have shoes the DA process too. What grit to clean that up and ready the section for primer?
This will show how to do it. You generally use 120 on a DA first then 220 out further or scuff out further so that you don't get primer on shiny paint.
Good work. You make it look easier then it really is lol
Thanks Evan - have a good end of the week :)
Love your videos! Curious what filler you use?
Glad you like them - I use Auto Body Master lightweight body filler from the local Auto Value auto parts stores. Any cheap filler will work fine - it's really all the same materials - sort of like motor oil :) Anyway - I try to keep the price at around $20 for a gallon of filler. This stuff is $19 / gal . Have3 a good week Chris.
You should show how to use guide coat , guide coat the dented area to show the exact damage and how large of an area you need to grind clean, then feather the paint edges, then Bondo and more guide coat , no guess work that way and you can see perfectly how straight and sanded correctly no guessing , that helps the diy guys a bunch
Nice idea - I'll try to incorporate that in a filler video in the future :)
When I hear your intro music I feel like I am watching a Wayne and Garth intro but I you do have great videos
Thanks Michael - what type of music do you like?
Awesome video. I have one question, at the end of the video you said Im gonna hit this with the D.A and then prime the panel. Did you go over the entire repair with the DA or just the edges? And what grit sand paper was used?
Good question. Just feathered the edges. You can start with 120 and as you move out further (don't want primer on shiny paint) you switch to 220-240 and then even further out you can scuff with the red scuff pad (optional) but just to make sure primer goes on prepared paint :)
What does DA stand for?
@@SamToshi dual action
Good stuff !
Thanks John - have a good weekend :)
You don't see many guy's using a cheese grater anymore
Short but sweet!
Glad you liked it Alan :)
Why did you need to DA it near the end prior to the primer surfaced? Love your videos!
Basically to further feather the surrounding paint, and to take out the 80 grit scratches. If I had to guess I would say he used 180 or 220 grit
Filler sticks best to the scratches made by a fresh 36 grit fiber resin disc on slow speed. The DA would smooth out the metal or even shine it a bit if the paper was dull. Jooathan Yates made a good point too. I used 120 at first and finished with 220 then scuffed and primed.
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry could you elaborate on what you mean by "scuffed" - what grade paper do you use and are you scuffing with a block or a DA?
@@mfwwhelan7561 Yes - any paint that is in perfect condition, you can just scuff with this: www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/3m-scotch-brite-general-purpose-pad-maroon-07447/3m-view-all? For example parts that the DA can't reach, areas that you would like to blend paint onto, areas that primer may hit further out than your DA went, edges, tight corners, etc. Hope that helps :)
Do you have a part number for the body file that you're always using in your videos? Love your work, I've learned so much.
This one will do you just fine - this one is from 1986 - the pad wore out so I replaced it with a sole from a flip flop sandal from dollar general - it was really flat and had the right amount of give - too soft (no good) too hard (no good). Glad you enjoy the videos and you are learning a lot - have a good weekend my friend :)