How Body Shops Remove Dents - Detailed Explanation from Start to Finish
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2020
- A detailed explanation on how body shops remove dents so that the filler never cracks, falls out, stays invisible and lasts forever. Video demonstrates the correct process from start to finish.
/ @lakesideautobody 
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A lot of people do not realize just how much sanding they save when they use the cheese grader method on body filler before they sand. The little bit of cheese grader you did was equal to about 20 sheets of sand paper....no shit...20 sheets saved along with all the time spend to do all that sanding..Great Job as always!
Thanks - very well said :)
What I wonder is what jerks gave this video a thumbs down? This man is taking time to give free instruction to anyone who wants it. It's straightforward, educational, and helpful for learning this craft. I'm starting a new job where I will learn basic dent repair and I'm using the videos to get a head start and some basic knowledge. Thank you for the videos.
I appreciate that. If you want to learn how to get filler straight, you came to the right spot. Do not listen to the negativity from the internet/TV/magazines even negative folks at work. I could get panels straight no matter how damaged - you came to the right place. Retired now - just making these videos. Glad you see that - you're smart. Jerry
Pretty sure they were democrats
bodymen are some of the biggest haters out there, always want to talk shit about other people's work
@@robertcampbell5605 lol..yep....9out of 10 are bitches....I don't get it....
Semi retired Car painter who still loves the trade and buys the odd car to paint and sell . really enjoy your content Jerry. and the also the way you do not over complicate things. Best wishes Aussie John
Thanks 👍 I really appreciate the support. Gotta love the smell of a body shop - it's like fresh cut pine to a carpenter. Have a good week.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry
Another great video Jerry. Your technique and teaching ability is outstanding. The passion you have for what you are doing is refreshing.
Thanks Bluesman, I appreciate the kind words. What are or were your passions/interests? Love to hear other folks' stories :)
Thank you, Jerry! Awesome, clear, step by step how-to, perfect for a newbie like me. And I learned a lot from the comment section. So great that you take the time to answer questions. Excellent video! First rate!
You're welcome John. Glad it helped you out and thanks for the kind words and support my friend 😊👍
Great demonstration Jerry! You are really helping the home DIY'er learn just how to do it correctly. Tom
Thank's - that's nice to hear. Hope everything is good with you - have a good weekend :)
Man I learned to do it all just from watching RUclips videos. Now I buy fixer upper cars and do body work and sell them for profit. Wanna know something else? I quit my other job.
Love your demonstrations . Easy to understand
Thanks Jon - I appreciate your comments - have a good week :)
Excellent demo of how to do it right, thank you for sharing all your experience.
Glad you enjoyed it - I appreciate your comment :)
Great step by step video. Many thanks for taking the time!
You're welcome. Have a good weekend :)
I love this channel it shows you techniques and professional body work. Thanks Jerry 👍👨🎓
You're welcome Vicshone - have a good week :)
Wow, you are a great teacher....keep them videos coming, thanks.
You're welcome and thanks for the support:)
Excellent work... thank you for these great videos !
You're welcome - glad you like them.
Nicely done Bud!! I haven't seen Nitro-Stan used in 40 years, I still have a can of it on the shelf from the 70's!!☺
Thanks - I really never got away from that type of putty for super quick fills. As long as it's small, it works great, drys real fast and never shrinks or shows up.
Wow this is my second video i watch you explain so well and make it interesting great video
Glad you liked it - and thanks. Have a good weekend:)
Omg this is beautiful work. . great video
I'm glad you like it - thanks Shirley - have a good week :)
Another great video Jerry...you make bodywork fun!
Thanks 👍 Always good to hear from you. Have a great weekend :)
This is one of the best videos I have watched on bodywork...sad that there are not more views. Your approach is very simple and straightforward. Would greatly appreciate your thoughts on: 2K high build primer, whether to use a etching primer on bare wood first, and primer sealer...or all these things unnecessary complications. I am restoring an 89 bronco. Thank you.
2k urethane primer can be applied over bare metal unless it is stated on the can that it can't. Look for DTM or something like that on the instructions - directly to metal. I've never seen etching primer used in any of the shops I've worked at. Just make sure the metal is sanded/ground first and nice and clean.
Another good video once again. Bravo
Thanks - glad you appreciate it - have a good weekend :)
He is a true professional because he makes it look so easy.. Body work is one of the most challenging things I have ever done..
I appreciate the kind words Go - have a nice weekend :)
Great visuals using a different colour paint! Got to see the application clearly. Thanks for a great teaching video, Jerry.
You're welcome Uncle Mark - always a pleasure hearing from you neighbor :)
@@LakesideAutobody Likewise!
Injoyed the video jery thanks stay safe
Thanks, you too - have a great weekend :)
Looks good. Haven't worked in a shop in years I always gotta relearn the paper grits and when to use them
Thanks - you'll have to pick up a project car/truck - have a great weekend :)
Thanks again
Great job i love that
Thanks Courtney - thanks for watching. Have a great week :)
Hi Jerry, thanks again for another great demonstration. Never mind the naysayers; I've learned so much from you, and I've used your techniques myself. THEY WORK! Anyone who actually goes out and tries this work will see just how practical and time-saving your tips are. Have a great weekend, man!
You're welcome. I get a few negative guys but I think that's par for the course. These are just the methods that I've seen and picked up on in shops that are the most efficient to me I sure there's other ways that work just fine too so.... Anyway I appreciate your support and I'm glad you like the videos - have a good weekend - Jerry
Another great video. You always make it look so easy. What primer do you use? I Know you mentioned it once, but I cannot find the reference. I remember it was some type of cheaper lacquer primer. Thanks
Lacquer primer surfacer from Auto Body Master. It's inexpensive 50/gal and works real well. I get it from the local Auto Value auto parts stores. The key though is primer surfacer - if you use 2k, use urethane for building thickness to block sand. Epoxy is more like a sealer.
If you occasionally pull a strait edge down the curvature you can see you high and low spots thanks for video you very good at it.
Very good point - sometimes I use a straight edge before filler to get a good Idea if there are any high areas that need to be knocked down.
@@LakesideAutobody I was hoing to comment on the fact as why you didnt check to see if there weren't any high spots as can sometimes happen when you get a hit.
Fantastic
Thank Chris :)
Another great video Jerry! I enjoy reading your comments almost as much as watching the videos - always something to learn!
Question: You finish the bondo by block sanding with 80 grit. Next you work on the paint edge, feathering it back nicely with 40, 120 and 220. Are you also hitting the bondo filled area lightly with the 120 and 220 or do you stay away from it until after the primer coats? Thanks again!
Thanks and you're welcome. After you finish the filler with 80 - stay away from it when DA sanding. You can hit it real quick if you want with the DA but generally leave it alone, prime it, block sand it, prime again and finish sand with 220-400 then paint. Have a great weekend:)
I look forward to each of your vids.
I was wondering if you have any vids on panel repairs or replace. I have a 1965 c10 step side in early stages of rebuild. Altho is has some ding and dents that I will be tackling, with much learned knowleadge from your vids, I also have some parts/panels to cut and replace. Thx in advance if you can share any links to past vids. And special thanks to the knowledge you keep shared on this channel
Thanks and glad you like them. I do have one or two: ruclips.net/video/HDrUYedsGMc/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/25F_BR4LRRQ/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/V-zMGXBxC1c/видео.html
Let me know what you need - I'll try to do a video on that topic. Also ask any question you want on any video in the comment section - I answer ?s and comments once or twice a day - Jerry
Thank you.
You're welcome :)
I have found that a long straight fine tooth "Sawzall" blade is a little better.
Great demonstration Jerry
How can I know when to stop sanding and it's ready for primer
Great question - I will do a video on that because it's a legit ?. The whole idea is to bring down the filler all at the same time - not one area, then move to the next. So if you stay "on top" of the filler bringing the whole filled area down at the same time, you'll start to see the edges start to feather or blend in. Do not force the edges to blend or feather- let it happen with a board and sharp paper - let the board do the work. Like I said - good ? :) Jerry
Hey Jerry ,
Great video , hope you had some good holidays.
My question is , where I'm located in
S/E Michigan, It seems.just after grinding down the paint to metal before I can get the filler applied I get a fine dusting of rust , what do you recommend.
I've washed with metal prep in the past but sometimes when I don't use filler but prime seal I get rust bubbles under the paint after about a year and end up redoing that section.
What do you purpose .
Thanks Again. It's been a while , keep up with the good work.
Al
Al... good to hear from you. Are you working inside or out? If you are working outside or moisture is a problem you're going to have to grind the panel clean, do the body work, and prime as soon as you finish sanding with 80 grit. Once you have it in primer - no matter what primer you are using - you should be OK. I usually prime right after I've finished the filler work so maybe that's why I've not come across that issue. I'm also always inside with dry heat. Also, If you use a ventless heater of some sort it can cause very high humidity - like bullet heaters, kerosene heaters, etc. I used to have an uninsulated steel building with a kerosene heater and it literally started raining droplets from the steel ceiling after it warmed up inside compared to the outside. Let me know what you figure out and how you solve it. Keep asking ?s if you need - I'll keep throwing out ideas that may solve the issue :)
Hello Jerry great job do you have any openings for a complete paint job on a 1999 Chevy Tahoe 2door? Please let me know thanks.
Sorry, right now I'm just focusing on making videos. Have a great week :)
Easier to use a heat gun,and cold ,wet cloth ,...no painting required.
This is a el cheapo body shop repair. Could've PDR that dent. No epoxy primer under the filler now results in rusty metal in the future. Garage body shop at it's best lol
Love your videos, question- What size is the DA pad you're using? It looks smaller than a standard 6". I just bought a 6" DA and wondered if they make smaller pads for them.
I use a 5" pad but it really makes no difference (maybe a little when black sanding w/ a DA). I'd keep the 6" - it's a non issue. I just use it because when I started that's all there was and I'm just real comfortable w/ it. I did have a DA with a 6" pad for quite a while because a shop I worked at used 6" - it made no difference to me really. So glad you enjoy the videos Tony - have a great week :)
When working on a metal panel, do you have to apply fiberglass first since its harder then put bondo ontop?
No you can just apply filler straight to metal. If there is a hole.... you could use fiber glass first then filler or weld it up, knock it down and fill. The Gotti/Ward trilogy movie will make you cry it's so good - you probably saw it already though - good stuff :)
Jerry, where can i get decals for a van, the stripes are similar similar to the one you are working on here. I am restoring a 2000 chevy express 2500 Jayco package.
Thanks
Rick
Good question. You might want to call the guy who does my hats and t's he's a graphics master and wraps cars, etc. He really can make anything you want. brothersdesignsmi.com/vehicle-graphics His name is Tyler Brothers - Jerry
Great video and, again, your intro music rocks! Was that 2K epoxy or regular 2K urethane filler primer you sprayed the three coats of prior to block sanding with 120 grit?
That was lacquer primer surfacer - If you want a 2k primer that is a surfacer use the 2k urethane. Urethane is more of a filler primer or block sanding primer and epoxy is simply a primer like a sealer. I like lacquer primer because you can throw the unused portion back in the can, you can keep it in the cup if you want, works very well, builds fast, drys fast, doesn't shrink if used correctly, cheap, sands easy - hope that answers your ? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks. One more question if you don't mind ;-) Will the lacquer primer effectively seal the bare metal like a 2K epoxy does (I've been taught it's best to only use epoxy or acid-etch on bare metal so it seals and won't let moisture through and rust form). Also, is the lacquer primer safe to use for example if we spray 2K urethane single stage or base/clear urethane paint over it when complete with the body/prep work? Thanks again...
@@LakesideAutobody Agreed, for sure mixing up 2K urethane or epoxy primer with activator and reducer as needed for every little bare metal or breakthrough spot I need to prime is a pain in the arse. So if lacquer is a safe option I'm interested...
@@elian222 Everything sticks to lacquer primer - lacquer, enamel, urethane, BC/CC even rustoeum. However it doesn't seal like 2k epoxy. In other words after you prime you don't want to leave it outside for a few months before painting. Once you paint though it's over - it's sealed from the outside by the paint. You could use a quick coat of sealer before painting if that worries you. One other thing about lacquer primer is you don't need to first spray a self etching type primer first as lacquer primer goes right over bare metal. Again though, use what works best for you. Hope that helps
@@elian222 You can also have a spray bomb can of primer around for real small spots (real small). Super cheap stuff works fine for small bare metal spots.
Jerry -
Do you have a link to the air grinder you used with the side handle. It looks like a beast. Great video.
Hi Bluesman. It's a Sioux 5290 vertical sander - They don't make that one anymore but here's the newer line up - www.siouxtools.com/industrial/finishing/vertical-sanders/ I did find the old model on Ebay though - not too bad of a price either - www.ebay.com/itm/312037126885?epid=1303934934&hash=item48a6dcb2e5:g:90kAAOSw~gRVwjIg&amdata=
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks so much Jerry. I ordered the one like you have off ebay.
@@bluesman6955 They are beasts like you say - sound real cool too :)
Does a slower speed on the grinder insure that the panel doesn’t heat up while stripping the paint ?
Yes. It also helps keep the sand paper or disc sharp.
Is there a video of your primer gun set up and which primer you used?
This may help. ruclips.net/video/THc0v-1TMug/видео.html Lately I've been using the purple gun from HF for primer and it works pretty good. www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html?_br_psugg_q=paint+gun - Don't have to worry about messing it up :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you. Motivated me enough to start working on my project again.
@@mustangnotch That's good to hear - Happy Holidays :)
please also tell us, how long you leave the primer to dry.
Here's a good rule of thumb because all primers (lacquer, urethane, epoxy, polyester) dry differently. If you want to make sure it's dry make that the last thing you do for the day - prime and go inside for the night. If you're in a hurry, as soon as you can sand it - it's dry. In a body shop we used to put a heat lamp on it and within 5-10 minutes start sanding so... it depends on quite a few variables.
Wait was there a dent there ?
How come you dont use guide coat?
I don't use a guide coat till block sanding the primer surfacer - see this video for more info on that: ruclips.net/video/itEzOW8Knzs/видео.html I will be uploading a new one on blocking primer with a guide coat soon. If it helps you though on your filler use it - there's no absolute correct way :)
da sand around with 120 or 180 or 220, ?
Generally you start with some 120 or even 80 to feather edge (smooth out the grinder marks or edge of paint). Then you can switch to a finer paper of your choice 220-320 to go out further so that you're not getting primer on unprepared (shiny) paint. You can even go 120 then scuff further out if you want (red scuff pad) - just so your primer sticks well. Basically don't want primer on un-sanded paint :)
Was that Motley Crue city boy blues? If not you nearly recreated it ⚡️ 🎸
No but I did take a listen to that song and it does sound similar. They sound a lot better. My favorite song from Motley Crue is "Too Young to " Fall in Love" - such a great riff. I like "Take Me to the Top" too. Good to hear from you as always - have a good weekend :)
If cut out the rust and welded in new metal, isn't it the same process ? I have been totally confused since I have gotten so many different suggestions and ideas on how to do this. For example, one guy said 600 or 800 prior to paint, another said 400, another said 320,,,,IDK. I like after you prime, hit it with 120, prime again and hit with 220/paint. Just the 120 part is going to save me so much time on the next paint job.
Here's the process in a nut shell (how it's done in dealerships). Do your body work (bondo to 80 grit) feather edge the paint w/ 120 grit go out further with 220-240 or scuff (red pad). Primer with primer surfacer 2k or lacquer primer surfacer, block with 120-150, primer again with primer surfacer, finish sand with 400-600, or you can also finish sand with a DA (220-320) your preference - 240-320 you'll have no worries at all, seal if you want with auto body sealer, paint - that's it - don't listen to nothing else - that's how it's done. Using anything over 600 before paint is not necessary. Let me know if you have any other ?s on this :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks.
Also depends on your paint. Solid colors you can get by at 400. Pearl's and metallics you want 600 so the flakes dont land in large sand Mark's. You want them flat. 800 you're starting to polish do avoid going that fine.
Turn on captions at 12:00 😂😂
Saing 36 first one whatt number there other one thank s much good video
You're welcome :)
so on this small job why dont you use PDR? im new to body work have a 96 jeep xj i have to put all new floor pans and fix rust holes on my uni-frame rails
You really can only try PDR if there is no marred paint - most of the time the paint is damaged. Certainly you can try your hand at it but usually you'll need filler. All dealerships and private body shops use this method. They may contract a guy outside of the shop if it is a really small ding or shallow dent without paint damage :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks new to auto body stuff. I have a 96 Jeep XJ and putting all new floor pans and learning how to weld in the process. Love your videos spent all day yesterday watching them
@@hayzersolar That makes my day Marc - love to hear stuff like that. Good luck on your floor pans. I like the AC Delco Seam Sealer for stuff like that - dries fast and is paintable - ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound - 10.1 oz on Amazon :)
I been watching Lakeside for 3 months . You did not say what primer you used, Im sure it was Epoxy , you covered the bondo and bare metal and paint . with Self etching it don't like bondo or paint , and 2K is not a sealer over bare metal . I do enjoy Lakeside Videos lot of great advice for a DIY guy or gal .
Thanks a lot - I appreciate that. I use lacquer primer surfacer for everything - it's cheap, builds fast, works fine, doesn't shrink if used right, doesn't harden and can throw the unused portion back in the can.. I also use sealer sometimes just before paint. Urethane and epoxy are great primers - matter of fact, I've never disliked any decent automotive primer - Martin Seymour smelled weird if I remember correctly though :)
@@LakesideAutobody Back in 1977 my brother and I used that on my first car . with Enamel paint . less than 400 for the car plus door and fender paint bondo. them days are gone . I loved the Video pounding out dents with a hammer and ball hitch :)
@@JCcanU Thanks - sort of funny but sometimes you have to work with what you have. I've done a lot of work with crappy tools over the years :)
@@LakesideAutobody Same , now when I need it I buy it lol
why do you need to clean it it with wax and grease remover when you are going to grind it said has two dents how did you get a low spot
I always wash and prep with wax and grease remover before doing any body work even if I'm grinding off paint etc, reason being it prevents contamination being spread around the panel and also onto my hands and tools, other wise I might end up with fish eyes in the final finish and no painter wants that!!
It's just a good idea because it helps you see everything, takes of any grease that might be rubbed around by sanding or grinding, etc. Not sure how the low spot got there - the truck was beat up pretty good. I think the previous owner ran it through the woods or something and trees rubbed against it.
It was hard to tell how deep the dents were. At what point would you pull the dent verses filling it?
Basically anything bigger than a common door ding gets pulled because larger dents cause a crown or high area around the dent that has to be dealt with.
Do body shops do paintless dent removal ?
Most do not and that can be done only if the paint is in near perfect condition. Also they rarely came across a vehicle that was in an accident that didn't have the paint marred. It doesn't happen often - maybe if a baseball hit the car or something like that.
@@LakesideAutobody PDR used a lot on hail damage. I had mine done when visiting Okla. And a hail storm hit it. Very interesting to watch.
Could you have pulled that dent out with a plunger/suction cups.
With suction cups, there can't be a crease or it can't be a very serious dent. You could always try it and if it don't work, go with plan 2 :)
I love cutting the cheese seen an old school bodyman do it. A lot of newer techs talk shit on it. I see it as just another way to remove filler. who cares if its a rasp or a da sander
You could of just pulled out the small ding
Where are you located??
Michigan
@@LakesideAutobody I wish you were closer to Georgia. Your work is incredible.
@@k.lamareyev4418 That would be good - a bit warmer in the winter :)
Lemme know when you're ready to paint my Mustang and do a channel collaboration
OK - you have a pretty cool channel - I'm going to check out some of those videos, Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too!!!
Why not use a stud welder and putt the metal out so you don't use as much bondo/body-filler and you should finish in at least 240 for primer not 80 grit you start at 40 or 80 then 120 then 240 it thanks a little more time but creating a show car quality and no heavy scratches for the primer or paint to sink months or years down the road... Becouce within time everything sinks
Always finish your filler with 80 grit, then prime with good quality primer surfacer, block sand, prime again, finish sand, paint. That's the process. Show car quality. I think sand scratches show up because folks in the past tried to bury grinder marks, 36 grit scratches, etc with a super thick coating of lacquer primer. If materials are used in the way they are meant to be used, you'll be fine. Thanks for the comments Peter - have a good week :)
It'd be easier just to pull it.
Wouldn't have scratched the hell out of the bottom of the door if he'd have taped it off.
If you mean the rocker panel - that's in primer. I didn't hit it anyway though - the door is out further than it - thus no need to tape
@@LakesideAutobody I'm talking about the bottom, below the body line ya hit with the grinder lol. The rocker panel is nowhere close lol.
Lakeside auto body make grate videos! but it’s AWAYS somebody looking for a mistake SMH 🤦🏼♂️
i can clearly see a low spot from here :/
ruclips.net/video/166CUwKOeEk/видео.html 💥ruclips.net/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/видео.html
Was hoping to learn how to remove dents, not just fill it with a bunch of mud
With respect, It's really you choice. You can do it like professionals at dealerships and high volume body shops or you can poke around at it for hours damaging the interior and other surrounding metal. That's your choices. My goal is to actually teach folks to do body work the way it's really done (not like the internet) so they could actually be efficient, know what they're doing and work in a body shop with those skills. Nice duster BTW - you'll like this Charger - ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
technically that's not removing, that's covering it up
True 😊
GOOD SHIT! NOT CACA!1😷😁👍💪
Small job you made it big application really bad only my opinion
I did that to make a point. You'll paint the whole door anyway though even if it's 1 square inch. Don't try to stay small - it only ends up causing problems in the end - really :)
Not being funny because this topic is interesting to me but it's really frustrating when you keep repeating what you are going to do, it makes it tedious to watch.
Thanks - I'll check it out and change it up a bit. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody hey I stuck with it and learned something I didn't know.
@@pbysome Cool - I was actually thinking (what you stated) in the last vid I made so its a good thing :)
--------- by taking money out of your wallet....
nice way to not do it this way
thanks a lot
If you didn't do it this way - 70's, 80's, 90's, you'd probably not have a job long. All owners and shop managers wanted you to grind to bare metal, etc. There is many reasons for this too. You're welcome BTW :)