3 Ways to Finish Sand Before Painting: Good Way, Better Way, Best Way
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2020
- This video discusses 3 of the most common ways to finish sand before painting - a good way, a better way and the best way. Tools, materials, and product links are listed below.
Blue DA Palm Sander: www.amazon.com/Random-Orbital...
Yellow Mirka DA: www.mirka.com/Mirka-DEROS-550...
Dewalt 20v Max Vac: www.dewalt.com/products/power...
Sand Paper 240 (DA): mirka-online.com/belts-discs-...
320 Grit Wet Sand Paper: www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Wetordry-...
/ @lakesideautobody 
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Thank You very much. I do mobile work for the car Dealerships. Recently a Dealership gave Me a bay to set up in for bigger jobs, doing blending, bumpers and small rust repair. I've learned so much from You. I Salute You. 🙂
That's great to hear - glad the videos help. Sounds like you've got something real good going on :)
I appreciate you taking the time for these informative videos! Thank you
You're welcome - glad you like them Chad :)
Hi Jerry simple procedure promotes a perfect finish. Thanks for the sharing.
You're welcome - have a good week :)
Morning Jerry you do the best job on your video's on explaining what you are doing I truly enjoy watching them
Thanks Tim - that's great to hear. Hope to keep them coming my friend :)
Love your videos. Hope they keep coming
Thanks Jeffrey - glad you like them - I'll keep them coming :)
Another great video thank you. Like the way you dont skip over stuff and give us the chance to really see whast you are doing
I appreciate that. If you have any suggestions or requests for videos or topics you'd like done let me know. Have a great week :)
@@LakesideAutobody For me it would be your nicely thorough approach on some more product reviews and comparisons, home made tools plus ways for an entusiastic amateur to work around not having full professional facilities like how to change use 1K or 2K paint mixes with no paint booth to bake etc [Obviously I am aware of the safety aspect and I use a suitable air fed mask]
@@bryanmerrison1275 Great suggestion. I'll write that down and try to do some decent videos on those topics. Keeping it reasonably priced is the most important thing. s - for sure. Thanks
Got a lot of old car jobs lined up. 65 Corvair right now. So the last method you showed(guide coat/wet sand) is what I Have to do. Lotta work bringing these around, good thing I love old cars! But I also get hands on vintage cars I may never own, which is pretty cool. And by the time i'm done, I know that car pretty well...
Very cool to hear. There was a time we could get our hands on those cars very easily - not now 🥴✌
Hope you put primer on the o. E fender before paint.
Thumbs up Jerry another excellent video on auto body you are one of the best teachers when it comes to Auto Body on RUclips I appreciate all your videos all your time and effort for teaching us may God always bless you buddy
Thanks a lot I really appreciate you thoughts and support. God bless you too my friend. Have a great weekend :)
Ive been doing auto-body for 12 years. This guy definitely knows his stuff.
@@carguysunited8186 that's right
Great tips on block sanding Jerry!
Thanks 👍 Have a good weekend UPK - Jerry
Lakeside Autobody you as well!
Great video! I know you mentioned it in the video but it bears repeating that after sanding out correctly it is important to get in the habit of re-masking before applying the finish. Especially the clear coat. The tape edges and creases in the paper can hold a lot of dust. Waiting for the paint to cure so you can wet sand and buff may be steps you don't want to add to the job. Thanks for the informative video Jerry.
You're welcome - thanks for the information :)
Sweet. Thank you
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
I’m finishing my daughter’s car this weekend. Block sanded the primer last week but it’s needs a little more work. Thanks for the tips.
You're welcome - let me know how it goes - Jerry
Love your videos
I appreciate that Ying :)
Interesting! Thank you
You're welcome Jon :)
Thanks again Jerry.
You're welcome Joel - thanks for watching and Happy New Year :)
Jerry rules. Perfect ExPLaNo my mano!
I appreciate your support - have a good weekend :)
Awesome video! Just curious as to what primer you use? Also, one thing I noticed on my car as well as in your video is the different shades of primer. On my car whenever I spray the primer seems to be lighter/darker from other sprays, will that cause an issue with the paint when I finally spray it on? I'm going for a dark grey color if that makes a difference.
I use lacquer primer from Auto Body Master but any lacquer primer will do. It's cheap, builds fast, dries fast, sands easy, works well if used correctly, doesn't harden in the cup and you can throw the unused portion back in the can. 2k works great too. Urethane is a blocking type primer and epoxy is just a primer. All work really well if used the way they are supposed to. That being said, you can paint over all different colors but if your primer is dark and your color is light , it may take another coat or two. If you want to avoid ever having that problem use a coat of sealer like in this video: ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html Hope that helps - if not feel free to ask more ?s - have a good weekend :)
Hello Jerry this is a great informative video and a important one I would like to see more videos like these . 1 question was you using an interface pad on the DA . Thank you for this video stay safe Jerry
I was not using an interface pad on the DA. I know they are advertised to help but adding softness can allow the sandpaper to follow contours. When blocking or finish sanding automotive panels you want a firmer backing pad that cuts through contours - not follow them. I think the interface pad would be better for wood working to follow all the random contours and aid in sanding faster. That's just my opinion though so, in the end it's what works for you :)
Whenever I use the rubber block, I offset the paper approx. 1/4" from the edge and use THAT for the 'squeegee'.
Excellent idea. Very thoughtful - I'll give it a try next time - thanks :)
Great videos,I have been watching several since I found this channel. Got a question, do you still use lacquer primer and if so do you apply base paint directly to it or do you use a 2k primer before paint?
Base directly to it. The lacquer primer is also DTM direct to metal too. Glad you enjoy the videos my friend :)
Use a 2k is best
I’ve always been told and seen other videos saying not to sand in circles? Is that only in certain circumstances and not when sanding primer like this? Thanks for all the info in the video it’s really helpful
You can sand in circles and in any direction you want. As long as you don't do one way constantly. In other words change up often to cancel out the previous strokes or patterns. Hope that makes sense :)
I’m learning - don’t underestimate the importance and usefulness of a good guide coat.
Absolutely true :)
Good work Jerry! I was told by a long time professional restorer that a person should guide coat anytime you change grits.
do it any way you like the bottom line just make sure your work is good, depends on your experience too some folks out there do shoddy job cause they don't give a rats ass, if thats the case don't even bother lifting a spray gun.
It can't hurt - have a great weekend :)
When wet sanding, how do I know when I'm done? Love your vids!
Excellent question. Basically when all the "orange peel" of the primer is gone or when you have a completely flat sanded surface. Everything should be down to 400 grit scratches. Here's another that may explain with more detail - ruclips.net/video/9tyUqr5CkqA/видео.html
Jerry, my question is guide coat. I have a 67 C10 and will put sheets or plywood or drywall and close the tail gate. While the inside of the bed may get scratched, I am looking to get those bedsides straight.
Many use “SEM” spray guide coat while other use a cheap “Flat” black spray paint. The “Evercoat” can or powder seems a little over the top, I was wondering why red can primer couldn’t be used on a gray 2K? Does it sand off too easy? I believe that chemicals like lacquer would infiltrate the substraight and possibly cause a solvent popping issue later. I am a retired ASE Master, not a collision painter. I have painted 7-8 of our family vehicles without issue, but want the thoughts from a pro! Thanks for the tips.
I always used what ever there was around that was handy. It doesn't matter if it sands off too easy as you just what something to sit in the low spots. If you are using 2k gray you with be fine using red can primer over it - it won't damage it in any way like contaminating the substrate or things like that. Best thing to do is keep a few cans of cheap dark colors (primer or paint) laying around for the guide coats. Hope that answers you question - Have a good weekend :)
Lakeside Autobody Thanks for the reply and insight on good information. My concern was chemicals and interaction. When asked, I always tell folks the (Cleaned, 80 grit bare metal, lint-free body shop rag, 70% isopropyl and air died tack rag, clean dedicated air hose, filters) but epoxy sealer, catalyzed filler, catalyzed primer, catalyzed base, catalyzed clear is a chemical bond but one big molecule. Thanks very much! Enjoy the videos. Hope to buy a nice gun someday but 11 years on disability sucks. Unrelated to fixing cars but 5 lumbar fusions over 4 disc in mid July. That hurts, but 6’3” in a short world. Blessing to you and the work it takes to do videos, it’s work!
I got question can you do little area's at a time when wet sanding like on trunk lid or hood or any area's on vehicle?
Absolutely. As you move to the next section they will all blend into each other.
What grit(s) do you recommend for this final dry block or wet sanding prior to painting? I assume it depends on what type of paint finish will be applied. For example maybe 400 for urethane single stage, 600 for base/clear solid color and maybe an even higher grit for base/clear metallic? I noticed you were using 320 here while wet sanding. Thanks!
I'm not opposed to using 320 as a finish grit as I have never been able to see any sanding marks in lacquer, enamel or urethane using it. However it is most common to use 400-600. I think you'll be just fine using 400 for most of your paintwork even BC/CC metallic. Here's an example of BC/CC metallic using less than 600 grit: ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html this was Nason BC with Nason CC. Hope that helps - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you
could anyone please answer my question - i'm doing a bmw e39 trunk at the moment, and it's quite flexy, so first i removed all the paint with a wire brush and sanded the bare metal with 80 grit on an orbital sander, put 2 coats of grey spray can primer on that followed by 1 thin coat of black paint instead of a control coat since i didn't have it on hand, then i sanded everything with 240 on an orbital, found some low and high spots, hammered the high - filled the low, what do i do now? i thought i can get away with sanding 180 on the orbital and then putting primer on that, should i?
If you are really close after filling in the low areas and tapping down the highs, you can go ahead and prime it with a few thick coats of primer surfacer or even feather fill (very thick primer). Spray bomb cans do not build thickness very well. Only if your body work is near perfect, can you use spray bomb (fill type) primer. Here's all the steps a normal body shop would use - ruclips.net/video/mApSa0l4euQ/видео.html
when i worked at a bodyshop in the early 90s all they taught me was block sanding. didn’t even have option to use power tools.
That's not cool 😢😢
If you burn through to metal while sanding, does that area have to be re-primed with a DTM, etch or epoxy? Or would a sealer be acceptable? Like small areas
Sealer or even a spray bomb can of inexpensive primer will suffice. Just for small spots where you accidentally burn/sand through like you said.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks, afraid if i hit with the high build primer I’ll make more bare spots sanding down, lol. As of now my car is ready for sealer, base and clear. I’ve been watching your videos for a while now. You’ve helped me out along the way from the rust repair to the paint, so thanks for that.
@@brianensminger2237 You're welcome Brian. Let me know how the rest of the project goes. Have a good time painting my friend - that's what it's all about :)
Is it ok to wet sand polyester primer surfacers like Evercoat G2 or Evercoat Superbuild?
Yes.
On the new fenders black finish is it ok to paint over , or should that also be primed ? I remember years ago my older buddies use to say you had to strip that black finish off new fenders ? Great information. Stay safe
The black is only a transport primer and needs to be sanded carefully and primed, the black does not have to be removed first, but it did years ago, if you don't prime the top coat will loose adhesion.
You can get away with just scuffing it but yes, its a good idea to DA sand it and make sure that it does not flake off, prime it and finish sand. If you can da sand it and see that it feathers well (you'll sand through in certain spots 'cause it's thin) then you'll know it is a good substrate. Basically test it to see if is doesn't peel or flake and your good. Hope that helps :)
Keith - IF it is a "blow n go" cheapazz situation NON warranty situation? Just scotch brite it and do your painting, or sealer/ primer over the black e-coat primer... But, IF you are doing the quality $$$ jobs, and you wanna warranty/guarantee your work for customers, OR personal jobs etc? Sand most to ALL that crap off. I have seen/ and had, and heard of the black coating just getting scuffed/dulled down (EVEN properly) and EVEN sealed/primed properly over that AND...? Have it cause adhesion issues/ rusting from the bare metal on OUT because, when coated from the factory? The steel ISN'T always clean, and may be contaminated or ALREADY "flash rusting" BEFORE it gets coated with the black e-coat primer. It's really JUST for the fact it's METAL, it sits, and it has to be shipped etc. So..? As usual. Ya basically JUST GOTTA cover your own azz on that sh.t! Happy Restoring 👍
@Keith Clark Black "urethane/rubber made" bumper covers is a TOTALLY different situation. There is NO "sanding the coating OFF" per say, as they ARE NOT made of metal, but literally "rubber." But on EVERY painting application for "rubber bumper covers," they should be thoroughly wet sanded with Comet bleach powder "soap" and a scotch-brite pad and rinsed off thoroughly with water then sealed with a good Epoxy primer and then painted. ALL the above procedures are done as to eliminate ANY contaminates, factory "coatings" and sealed to MAKE THE PAINT STICK AND STAY STUCK. And IF ALL the above prep is NOT done? The paint WILL NOT stick well, and start popping right OFF. Unfortunately, I have seen some replacement bumper covers (even prepped correctly) that STILL start popping paint later down the road. But THOSE were jobs where the base/clear was applied over the rubber, and the bumper covers were NOT sealed at ALL. In general, bumper covers "can be" a PIA, especially AFTER they have been painted and paint is popping, and THEN...They need completely stripped.
@@jamescon55
Yeah I know all about it been doing it for 45 years And on those ones you've having trouble with Probably wouldn't hurt to use some Adhesion Promoter on But you need to be careful with water borne primers ,
There's also a product called scrub and scuff
( Fine Grit ) Takes the place of comet , Also best to use a urethane sealer.
Hey Jerry, I'm in the market for some mirka sandpaper.... should I just get the Gold or buy the backing pad with all the holes and get the abranet?? I have a Stick-on Pad on my d.a. right now.... what do you recommend??
The only reason for the holes is if you are dustless. In other words you are using a vacuum or dust collector. Other wise just get the gold . I really like their gold paper - just as good as 3M - Here's a video I did on the Gold paper - it's older but it might help you out. ruclips.net/video/bdaXf2bXrPM/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody I'm just going to be building a 71' c-10 and a 84 k-10.... I couldn't see any reason for me to go dustless unless you HIGHLY recommend it.... I have a 6" D.A. Husky (It does alright, I guess) and a 80 Gallon Air Compressor.... I was just wanting to pick the brain of someone who does bodywork daily....
So it is ok to use the body filler over raw metal ?
Absolutely. That's how it was always done before epoxy primer showed up (90's). Filler was made to be put over freshly ground clean metal. Here's a video that can help with this topic - ruclips.net/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/видео.html
What body filler do you prefer for an all around product
Anything that you can find that's inexpensive will work just fine. It really is all the same. I use Auto Body Master lightweight body filler - $21/gal
Regular old Bondo brand is good too - you can find it at Walmart - not sure if they have gallon cans though. Let me know what you find :)
@@LakesideAutobody So Rage ultra $103 a gallon isn’t required. Cheap is good but if it is more labor intensive it might be worth spending a little bit
@@rogerstern2542 All fillers sand pretty much the same so you really don't have to concern yourself with that aspect. You can trust me when I say go with the reasonably priced fillers. You won't be disappointed. Watch this video - it demonstrates the grits and methods used in body shops to sand any type of filler quickly and efficiently. I have other too in the "playlist" called dent repair - ruclips.net/video/rv0uB-ZvrFo/видео.html
Thank yo
@@rogerstern2542 You're welcome Roger.
Are you not worried about taping body lines as a guide during finish sanding? Only while blocking? Also, I put two new fenders on my truck too. I see yours is still in its edc coating. Did you prime it or leave as is. I ended up priming mine but is it okay to just paint over that?
Good ?! You can tape during finish sanding if you want - it may even get them straighter or if you know it needs it. However, the goal is usually to get it straight (done) with blocking then when you finish sand you're going to stay away from the body lines and carefully hand sand near and around them. I have a video coming up on that - I think you'll get what I'm saying a lot better. In the body shops I worked at we just scuffed them and painted. If there was damage we would go about fixing and priming most of the panel but you can scuff and paint if you want.
Thanks Jerry. I figured it wouldn’t hurt to tape them but honestly I planned to do exactly as you said. I just couldn’t remember if I’d seen you tape during finishing or not. And quite frankly it’s very hard for me to even get the tape straight. Especially on a seven foot bed. Thanks again. You are an invaluable resource.
Thanks Jerry. I figured it wouldn’t hurt to tape them but honestly I planned to do exactly as you said. I just couldn’t remember if I’d seen you tape during finishing or not. And quite frankly it’s very hard for me to even get the tape straight. Especially on a seven foot bed. Thanks again. You are an invaluable resource.
Thanks Jerry. I figured it wouldn’t hurt to tape them but honestly I planned to do exactly as you said. I just couldn’t remember if I’d seen you tape during finishing or not. And quite frankly it’s very hard for me to even get the tape straight. Especially on a seven foot bed. Thanks again. You are an invaluable resource.
Thanks Jerry. I figured it wouldn’t hurt to tape them but honestly I planned to do exactly as you said. I just couldn’t remember if I’d seen you tape during finishing or not. And quite frankly it’s very hard for me to even get the tape straight. Especially on a seven foot bed. Thanks again. You are an invaluable resource.
How long you been doing this Jerry
My dad was an auto body repair guy so he started me out in around 9th grade in the garage doing body work and him painting the cars when he got home from work - he worked at dealerships and various custom van/corvette shops :)
@@LakesideAutobody oh wow no wonder you talk like a Teacher . That’s what I noticed about your videos . Oh that’s cool man me I just learned this just to do something honestly I’m not a video game guy I never was so that’s why I do it. To me it’s really not that serious I tell people this is Autobody work is not fun for you don’t do it Thanks again for all your tips Keep making them videos I know I’m watching them Appreciate it
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 You're right about that - "If it's not fun for you - don't do it" Sometimes when it's hot out and you are frustrated, it can be hard work 😊🔥✌
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry with or with out heat it’s hard work 😓 I love it come on with that money lol
@@LakesideAutobody If it’s not hard it’s not fun Jerry
I never see you using epoxy primer.
Remember before the 90's they didn't have epoxy primer. Plenty of great body work and paint work was done then. Lacquer primer is DTM direct to metal. Filler is DTM. Fiber glass is DTM. Some urethane primer surfacers are DTM. The only time I use epoxy primer is on aluminum or if I buy a gallon of urethane primer that requires epoxy primer first. Lots of urethane primers are now DTM though so check the label. Jerry
Why wouldn't you remove the emblem and door handle and belt moldings, mirror? You don't tape those off wtf lol
You can do that if you like but there's a very good chance you'll end up breaking brittle door clips and parts as it's a 96. It's actually better to get good at masking. A boss where I worked always wanted everything put together before painting to avoid marring the paint putting stuff together. I totally agree with him. That way the next day.... pull the tape - your finished. Perfect paint work - no problems - got to be good at taping though :)
My Wife wants to know Jerry , Where's your Mask. . I'm very thankful because I started a project and that's all I've been hearing
Tell her that I usually wear one but if I have to talk, sometimes I forget. I wear this guy - 3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator Assembly 6391/07003(AAD), Large, P100 Respiratory Protection
Sanding blocks for beginners.....
Sanding blocks get body work the straightest. If you're really good you can use a hog or a DA but still doesn't get it as straight as a block. Then you can start talking about the padding on a block, the length of the block etc. Lots of stuff go into getting it straighter than glass.
Is there a reason why this truck hasn't been detrimed
If you are talking about taking the trim off - it's because Its my daily driver and car tower - I just do a little at a time in between jobs and picking up wrecks. Hope that makes sense :)
Yeah and then you can rob peoples cars because you'll have no fingerprints. (wetsand whole car) lol
Good one :)
iPhone 📲 does not recognize fingerprint enter passcode I get when blocking 2k 😀
U point out too spots that you miss sanding .way did it look like
Could you give me the "time" in the video that I said that 'cause I couldn't find it. Here's what it looked like after paint though: ruclips.net/video/166CUwKOeEk/видео.html - Let me know I try to get an answer out to you - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody i watched that
@@73superglide62 OK - have a good week end :)