Hand Finish Sanding the Final Coat of Primer for Perfect Car Panels
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2022
- If your goal is a show car straight finish then the best way to finish sand the final coat of primer is wet sanding by hand with a guide coat. Tools, materials and Lakeside Merch is listed below.
🔥 Sanding Block - 5" rubber sanding block
🔥 Wet Sand Paper - 3M 320 grit - 320-400 or finer is often used when wet sanding primer.
🔥 Scuff Pad - Mirka 18-118-447
🔥 Lakeside Merch and Apparel - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-al...
🔥 Lakeside Discord (pictures and chat about your projects) - / discord 
Авто/Мото
The exact way I learned, not fun, yet the best. We are a different breed from most. Thank ou sir.
You're welcome. You're right it's a bit of work but good for your arms 💪
Can I use gloss black spray paint or black primer as clear coat
Thanks for making another well produced video Jerry. Wet sanding is very time consuming but well worth the effort. Great job!!!!!!!!!!
You're welcome Bluesman - hope your race car is coming along OK :)
The very Best tutorial I have seen on the subject!!
This a great video, and will bring so many peoples painting skills way up to listen to this. When I started wetsanding primer I noticed an instant huge difference in quality.
I appreciate your input - it does make a huge difference to take your time - wet sand one panel at a time - and get it right. Have a good week Motoworks :)
Great finish 👍
Great demo Jerry. Cheap spray paint for a guide coat is a great idea. Wish I could send all my cars your way !!!
I painted a car like yours in the mid 80's - a red one. Did the whole thing for like $600 - If I can find pictures of it I'll get them to you somehow :)
@@LakesideAutobody That's amazing. Yes the price of paint jobs sure has increased but then again so has everything else.
Red was a very popular for these Comets it seems.
I did enjoy your video! Great information as always.
Thanks U Mark - have a great weekend 🏈
@@LakesideAutobody You too! Me working on broken plastic fuel line at fuel filter on the old 95 Intrepid.
@@unclemarksdiyauto been there, lol.. i had a real nice one i fixed up and sold about 5 yrs ago. Was the start to many more cars. I used the nylon line end & barbed 2 side fitting. Getting that nylon on is a bitch. Gotta heat it up without being a fire hazard.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Ahh... I remember the commercials - "Cab Forward" "Cab Forward" 😊
Great video, thanks.
Great video thanks Jerry Bob
I am exactly at this point with my Datsun 280Z, so this comes at a perfect time. Thanks!!
I glad to hear that - the Datsun 280Z is one of the coolest designs for sure - one of my favorites :)
Great investment, I had mine until the doors fell off from rust. So many memories, hopefully you have the stickshift. Shifting mine one day my foot crunched through the floorboard. 280z are hot now wish I kept mine.
Great work bud !!!!
Thanks Curtis - have a good weekend :)
Great video, Jerry. Nice work. That door is a thing of beauty.
Thanks MC - have a good weekend :)
This is sooo good. Thank you!
You're welcome my friend :)
Fantastic stuff
Glad you enjoyed it Zambo - thanks for watching :)
Doing my first panel and struggling a little. My primer sprayed very rough. Instead of the 3 coats I stopped at one because I was afraid something was wrong. Turned out at 28 psi I was way low. Should of sprayed at 40-50 according to the spec sheet. Also I needed to attend to water in my compressor. Glad I fixed it. I did block sand the huge panel, bed lid, with a 18” block. Going to spray it twice more. Would be nice if someone had told me 8-10 psi on the spec sheet was 40-50 on a hvlp. First time trying. Your videos have been a huge help.
If you are spraying urethane primer it will be too thick out of the can and will spray really rough so thin/reduce it with urethane reducer till it sprays nice for you. Same with lacquer or polyester - thin lacquer primer with lacquer thinner and poly with thinner or acetone. It's the viscosity of your primer that's causing you the problems I think - not so much the pressure. Not sure but usually that's the problem. Use a clean gun, thin your primer right and use around 25-28 psi for conventional or gravity fed guns. Let me know what ends up working for you Gene :)
YUP that is totally old school. Love that old heavy block. ....I use the foam ones now. Little easier on the body....My shoulders say hell no every time I hand sand anymore.
Thanks for stopping by Mike - always good to hear from you :)
Thanks for this 🙏
You're welcome - have a good week :)
relaxing, yes, very relaxINg
Great video on finish sanding primer Jerry that’s how you get it paint ready!
Thanks UPK - hope everything is going well for you my friend - thanks for always watching :)
@@LakesideAutobody things are going good Jerry!
@@UndergroundPaintKing Glad to hear it - take care :)
@@LakesideAutobody take care Jerry and have a good upcoming week!
Love from Jamaica 🇯🇲
Thanks, ❤from Michigan ✌😊
Enjoyed the video Jerry
Glad to hear it Gary - have a good week :)
nice little video
Glad you enjoyed it Brad - have a good weekend 🏈
We cut pieces of fresh stiff grey scuff pad as a backer for wet work on body line curves/shapes... tried it after learning years ago how brutal tedious wet work can be on fingers, it keeps the finger cramps away🤙🇺🇸🙏
Great suggestion - I'll give it a try - thanks :)
Or you can just use a sanding sponge and be done with it.
best video ever thank you.
Thanks DaSesh - glad you liked it :)
this video takes alot of the novice anxiety away, the one that makes the paint run like beads of realization sporing along the spine.
👍😊
Hey Jerry. In the final shot showing the door, There are some white spots near door handle and near front and rear edge of the door.Also at the bottom. Is this just a demonstration panel I'm asking myself?
Yes this is a demonstration panel but it's common to sand through in a few spots for sure. That's no problem though. If it's paint like you see on the door you can leave it, hit them w/ a light shot of primer or spray the whole panel/car with a coat of sealer before painting. If it's bare metal, you can hit it with a light coat of primer or even keep a spray bomb can of primer handy.... or a coat of sealer before paint. If I hit it with primer, I do usually lightly sand it before paint to make sure there's no dust nibs or any other issues.
I kept saying damnit boy you missed a spot,but, it turns out it was a spot on my monitor ,thanks to you and your videos I have a spotless computer monitor now
That's funny - I think I've done that a few times myself 😊 Have a good weekend RS 🏈
@@LakesideAutobody you too sir, cant wait for your next video,keep em coming
Thank you Jerry, awesome job. Looks like snow?? I think in one shot of the video. Did you get snow?
When I do my Vw bugs I always water sand . I don’t understand why some people don’t do it they take 4 months to do a car then rush at the end . I don’t get it all that work then you rush . My opinion is that you get good then when you have another car you just fast and no need to rush . My mentor got me use to keep in the gun straight So when I prime I keep the gun straight when I do basecoat I keep the gun straight so when I shoot a clear it’s automatic . I used to play basketball when I was young I learn to use both of my hands I paint with my left and my right and I keep the gun straight you have to have muscle memory in order to do this kind of work I think and a little bit of balance also it’s a dance . For me my opinion if your not having fun why would you do it . I love AUTOBODY because there is really no end to it . And the pure Satisfaction of you actually doing something with your hands and it looks nice
Thanks for your input - lots of good point there. There is no end to the learning in autobody - it's like guitar - you never really master it. There's always something to learn or practice :)
Lovely video's as always :)
I do have a question: if you want to remove rust, does sandblasting and putting epoxy anti rust primer (for example raptor anti rust primer) stop the metal from corroding permanently, or does the rust return? I did a underbody restoration with a grinder a few years ago, and the car is all rusted again, paint flaking.
Thank you in advance.
If you sand blast it and prime it with anything, the rust won't come back..... as long as it is not rusted through. That's the key. If there is even a few micro tiny pin holes that you don't notice the repair will begin to bubble shortly after. Surface rust has to be just that - on the surface - very little and hardly pitted.
I've been afraid to wet sand anything with body filler because I was afraid moisture would get in the filler. Thanks for this video.
You're welcome. That moisture stuff is mostly just talk and scare tactics invented by companies selling products that are moisture resistant or water proof. Wet sanding paint or primer is perfectly OK :)
You should be more afraid of your arm falling off due to wet sanding it's tedious work requires lots of music therapy maybe some col'beers🤙🇺🇸🙏
@@joehannan1687 I love wet sanding though - not sure why but I can do a whole car and not get bored or tired. It's sort of relaxing :)
@@LakesideAutobody Just picking up on this - been watching a lot of your videos, which are great.
I have a grp hardtop which I have cut and shut to fit my car. Been through all the prep stages using UPol products. Wet sanded to 600 grit, looking great, but I have broken through in a few places from my grey primer surfacer through to the spray-on hi build below. Wiped off the water and used a hair dryer to drive off moisture. I am guessing I shouldn't worry about the water on the water / high build then?
@@kevinwells768 No worries. Even though you'll hear some talk about it "soaking" in and other "scary" things. Painters have been wet sanding for years - lacquer primer, urethane primer, poly, etc. You'll be fine - you can prime it again, seal it, what ever you decide to do.
Your videos are priceless sir. As a hobby I am trying to restore a 66 VW beetle. There are some areas on the panel with some rust that can be sanded off, but still might be some tiny holes here and there that I may not be able to get to them and I am not in a position to sandblast it. So question is will it good enough to use Ospho on the panels, then epoxy prime it?
Yes - that would work fine. An old boss had us do that 'cause he didn't want us sand blasting in the shop - never had any issues or returns. We would use that stuff, tap the area down a bit and fill like this - ruclips.net/video/rPTaeH056ng/видео.html
Look into a "paasche air eraser".
You can use soda or aluminum oxide in em.
I pulled the side windows on my 91 Jetta coupe to repair a couple of blisters I could see on the surface of the weatherstripping.
With soda , I was taking dirt off the factory primer where the base coat wasn't covering it.
Then I switched to the aluminum,and blasted the little spots off and was good to go.
@@MrTheHillfolk Thanks MrHillfolk I'll check it out. Appreciate you checking out the videos :)
@@MrTheHillfolk Hey! That's a pretty neat tool - might keep the sand blasting dust to a minimum. I don't really need that much most of the times so I think this would work well for me - thanks again - Jerry
Hey buddy, that's my world all by hand. it gets so smooth like glass sometimes i worry if paint will stick & i scuff it up 🤣
I cringed at the circles! My paper is never cut well, probably wrong; & sanding curcular would guarantee gouges! Ouch.
It's a beautiful thing how cool and smooth it feels after wet sanding. Have a good weekend JR :)
Nce job. What grit of sandpaper you use? Thanks.
400 - most commonly used in body shops before paint. Cuts fast and doesn't show scratches in paint :)
Can you paint over high build primer or do have to put primer surfacer
You can paint over high build primer.
When doing the final block out and a small area of filler shows through, does this area have to be primed again, or is it OK to apply base-coat on top?
You should reprime because basecoat will lay down differently on some fillers
Re-prime, maybe spot prime it, or sealer. Because otherwise you'll see an outline or halo in the paint.
Good tip NCD - JR makes a good point with the sealer - exactly why folks throw a coat of sealer on.
In this case sealer (which is much thinner and should not be sanded and if sprayed properly doesn't need to be) is the superior solution.
@@satamanschmidt3428 👍
👍👍
Are you shooting a primer sealer on the last primer coat?
You can if you want or you can go right to paint. Sealer is good for getting the vehicle all one color before paint, hitting any small bare metal spots before paint, and sealing the body work, primer, old paint, etc. from the new paint. Once you seal, you don't have to worry about the new paint lifting or reacting with the stuff underneath :)
I have a good question today! So I was sitting in front of my car and the sun shining in and the time of day gave me a perspective of the entire length of the car that I have not noticed before. It was a little disturbing. What I noticed were a few long subtle waves. The plan is to paint this car black and obviously those waves will become much more noticeable compared to the green color it is now. What do you do with imperfections like this that are so LOOOONG in size/length? Seems like I would need a 4' long block and two people! Anyhow, as always thanks for any info you feel like providing.
Use the 17" board - www.tptools.com/Professional-Straight-Board-Sanders,461.html?b=s*sanding+blocks+%26+boards If it's literally a dent, you should get it close first that way your board isn't just riding along following the contour - like you're thinking. If it's shallow just fill and block or even prime and block :)
@@LakesideAutobody Great, will do. Thanks!
Use a squeegee and a squirt bottle old school.
Anybody else get here from the end cards on a video from the 60s with Walter Cronkite about homes of the 21st century from a completely different channel? Cuz I know I did lol
I'm glad you got here. Was it a good thing? I appreciate you taking a look :)
Thank you for that tale, now we know.....the rest of the story.......
My phone listens to me , so that's how I got here 😃
When you wet the skin and then dragged the edge of the spreader down in vertical strokes, were you looking for where water remained (suggesting a low spot)? It looked like you were.
Many years ago I used a light, water and an edge to reveal low spots. Results were questionable. I think your method of a guide coat is the way to go and it is how I am proceeding.
You can see any orange peel left in the primer. When the primer is completely sanded smooth as glass, you're done. At this point, you should have no low spots at all - that was taken care of during the blocking stage. It goes - filler work, thick primer, block sand, prime again (thinner primer), wet sand, paint. 😊
Soap bollocks don’t need it ... slides over surface work twice hard
clean with soap and water... wet sand with soap and water
Hey brother I’m a apprentice and I was wondering, is it okay to sand primer 400 then straight to 800 grit? One of painters at my shop sands down with 180-240-320-400-800 and he’s very adamant that it’s the correct way he told me paint doesn’t come out straight if you use 400 from the start and also he tells me 400 grit doesn’t cover 240 grit? I really find what he’s saying hard to believe but I thought I’d ask your professional opinion brother
Lets make it super simple. You can paint over 320 on the DA or 400 wet or dry sand by hand. How ever you get there is completely your choice. The process commonly used is: finish your filler with 80, prime, block sand with 120, 150 or 180 (your choice), prime again, finish sand with 320 (DA) or 400 (hand). It's uncommon to see someone finish sand a car with 400 then sand it again with 800. If you want to get it to 800, I would block sand your primer with 180 or 220, prime again then finish sand (wet) with 800. Why are you using 800 grit anyway? You'll never see sand scratches in the finished paint work using 320 DA, 400 (hand) as long as you mixed the paint correctly. 600 is the finest you should ever go really :)
I live in Australia and I’ve worked in a couple shops here throughout my apprenticeship and it’s the way they do it here, the shops I worked at all use solvent base not water base and they never primer twice it’s just body filler then either use DA or wet sand then paint, it’s honestly so funny how different countries and painters do things so different, there is a painter in my shop now that I’m at, he will primer then block down primer with 240-320-400-800 then remaining areas that will be clear coated he will wet rub 1500, he believes if you paint over 1200 you will see scratches Especially in metalic, thank you for taking the time out of your day and replying to me I really appreciate it sir
How to wet sand without guide coat
Yes. If you can see real well, you don't necessarily need a guide coat. Even with grey primer, you can pick up the low spots but it is much easier with a contrasting color or guide coat :)
I wondered where you went.
I like your name 🔥👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody Hah! Appreciate that. It's been basically true since the beginning.
The plastic spreader is wrong because it will scratch the panel you should be using a rubber squeegee and also if trained over time you can finish sand with a orbital sander with a interface pad
As long as your plastic spread is clean and relatively new so it wipes nice like a new wiper blade, you're good. Yes you can finish with a DA no problem but I promise you guys who are doing a show car will finish sand by hand - no doubt at all :)
How long should you let spray bomb primer dry before sanding. Thanks
It depends on the brand and type but basically if you can sand it with out the paper getting clogged, you're good to go. If the paper constantly gets clogged (some spray bombs are like this) you can wet sand :)
@@LakesideAutobody I bought Rust oleum automotive filler primer. I am going to try to do this repair for under $200 Iam going to use krylon paint and clear lol hope I won’t be kry long . Thanks I remember you said 3hour but that’s good primer so Iam lost guess I’ll try waiting an hour and try wet sanding 😁
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 As long as it's dry to the touch, go ahead and try sanding it. Let me know how the Krylon paint and clear works for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody will do
@@LakesideAutobody I was wondering do you think krylon is a bad choice for automotive spray bomb paint. It was the only paint in bomb that matches her Nissan and that includes the code match stuff at 3 times the price this was so close that’s why I chose it 🤷♂️
How did you get into this...
My dad was a body man/painter :)
@@LakesideAutobody That helps to explain your level of expertise.
@@lynnhooley7608 Thanks Lynn - sometimes I wish my dad was into mining oil $$$ 😊
You fold the sand paper in 3 so you can make it like a thin block . You don’t used the thin soft blocks
Those thin blocks were never around when I started so that's how it was done and I do think it gets it straighter than the foam block & actually like it better - it's your choice though.
@@LakesideAutobody I will start doing that better like you do it . Why Wouldn’t I . Your body work is good and fast and efficient . Why am I buying soft blocks 😵💫
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 Don't waste your money - remember, some of the most fantastic paint jobs you've ever seen came out of the 70's and 80's (I remember being dazzled at the Autorama Auto Shows) - they didn't even have foam soft blocks back then. No epoxy primer, urethane primer, 2K putty, etc. You had lacquer primer, 2 sanding blocks, regular body filler, lacquer paint and enamel paint - that's it! Really! Stop wasting money - you can do this stuff for very little cost and actually breath less harmful vapors if you keep it simple :)
@@LakesideAutobody right on Jerry When I finish a dent so fast I go Jerry !Jerry! Jerry!
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 I love that a lot! When I worked, we were on commission pay so... If you wanted to make a good living, you had to be fast and efficient or else 😢🥴😵
Should I use lacquer paint?😂
Lacquer, oil based enamel, acrylic enamel or urethane will work :)
Do you need a bigger block? 😂
A bigger block would get it straighter if that's what you are aiming for 😊
No, just no
??
I dont understand your sanding method at all. Makes me cringe watching you do this actually. The sanding in a short back and forth motion for one. You should cover as much of the panel in each stroke as you can. For the same reason you dont spay the paint on like that. Idk dude different strokes for different folks. Seeing you have so many subscribers makes me wonder and think i should make a channel myself.
You should not cover as much of the panel in each stroke. I'm curious as to where you heard this. If that's the case, then walk the whole length of the car and walk back with the sand paper against the car. Heck, you don't even have to move your arm. Don't watch TV/Magazines and internet to learn how to wet sand - go to a body shop and watch a guy that has done this for years and years.
@LakesideAutobody I said cover as much of the "panel" as you can with each sanding stoke depending what direction your sanding in. That may not always be practical or ideal, and you may not cover the entire "panel" all the time but it beats the hell out of sanding back and forth 1ft in the middle of a door skin or quarter panel or any large flat area. Work yourself to death like that and it's much slower. I would never walk the entire length of a car with a sanding block in my hand 🤕
nice nice
Use a longer block, I don't understand why people do this to themselves... That tiny block makes you chase a flat surface where as a long block takes all the nonsense out and gives you a poker straight panel
You're right about the long block but not for wet sanding. Everything should be laser straight by the time the 400 grit wet sand paper hits it :)