Travis, as usual you provide an excellent tutorial on every stage of the process. You should have 1 million upvotes for every one of your videos. I thank you for all the help you have provided me. Thanks, Paul
Даже не досмотрев видео до конца, хочу поблагодарить за то что вы выпускаетк такие ролики. Мне очень помогло при ремонте своего авто. Смотрю с субтитрами. Не всегда перевод корректен, но смысл понятен. Спасибо и удачи вам!
Just splined my 68 DeVille - the melomotive kit works great on those long slab sides and flat hood/deck lid - amazing the lows they pickup on the subtle curves - easy to learn - filler work in 1 week singlehanded
It doesn’t get better than a great video full of excellent information. Love that mix-temp chart. Was EverCoat watching you! Wow, 20 minutes at 50/50 at high temps. Great information is never boring. Thanks Travis so much stay current on our builds as I just took delivery on 4 gallons of sprayable epoxy black. I too use the contrast to find panel defects. Thank you kindly!
throw the 3m in the trash... tons of people in florida are having issue with corrosion issue between the 3m filler and bare metal break threws.. even thow 3m says you can apply over bare metal 🤔 we refuse to use the 3m...and now only use the rage ultra... also good pratice to spot prime any break threws of bare metal with epoxy before you put on another coat of filler!
Picked up a couple pointers can’t wait to give them a try. I watch every single one of your videos and have adapted my bodywork technique because of the lessons you’re teaching on this channel. I’m a one man shop at the moment I always had a body tech and I love being a painter but I’m starting to fall in love with bodywork. The feeling of accomplishment when you get it right is more gratifying than laying down a glass finish in my opinion.
Love this channel, but something I've yet to find a solid answer for is, how do you prepare an Epoxy primed surface, after you've let it dry? When not being used as a sealer coat to spray right over wet. This would be for a race car application on the chassis and roll cage surfaces where you have lots of bare steel, but are wary about adding too much paint for weight purposes. First step obviously to prepare the steel and then shoot down your epoxy. That I get. But after the epoxy has dried, we're talking in weeks and months once work on the car continues, how do you sand or scratch it up, to key it enough to get paint to stick to it, considering epoxy can't be sanded. I know normally you'd use a poly primer or similar over the epoxy, but again that would be unneccassry for weight purposes, and the fact that there is no bodyworking to be done makes that primer layer somewhat pointless. But my question stands. How would you prepare the dried and cured epoxy to put paint onto it? Just scratch it with red scotch brite? Clean it with wax and grease and just paint it?
We covered this exact topic on previous videos. These days, most epoxy primers are sandable. You can use a red scotch pad. You can wet sand It with 600 grit etc. our last few videos is a step-by-step process to go from bear Metal all the way to get you to paint and I guarantee this is in there.
surprise surprise another very informative video lol thank you... the melomotive guys are brilliant Pete & Lincoln do day classes around Australia They always spend time with us even a a quick call they are happy to help i realize it dosent help any one in the States but its their passion not just a job & the products are proof from the splines to their Epoxy & polyprimers... the splines are great they also have radius ones & mini sets.. i love them
Awesome video. I've been doing body work for a number of years. I'm self taught for the most part but I learned some things in this video. Appreciate ya. Make some more if ya would please. And come to PA, id take your class.
good job nice video all i have been using is that pricey rage ultra for the past 5 years or better once you use it yer hooked i haven't even bought any polyester glazing putty since if you get pin holes or flaws just use the rage i only use the xtra on big spreads small stuff it's not needed as you know happy mudding !!
Hey dude, the trick ive learnt with carbon dust(dry guide coat) over the years is hold the pad and container together, invert, twist 1/4 turn and back, then flip back over and apply to the panel with the pad. Doing it this way is faster and more consistently spreads the guide coat in an even color.
@@Willsy161z yes but we don’t do that because we use the guide coat for when we sand clear coat. The filler particles end up back in the applicator and scratch the clear. Especially when you are in a finer grit than 1000 grit. So when we get to clear we use a soft micro fiber to spread it. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS oh that's cool! I didn't think of that, I've never used carbon for wet sanding clear, I usually just jump grits by at least 500grit so the difference in scratches is obvious. Your way sounds faster, I'm going to give it a try!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I like the way you mix the 2 fillers you have also. I've been doing this for years, back when rage gold was cheap(can't believe platinum plus is now cheaper) I'd Mix a little evercoat easy sand into it to make it easier to spread and easier to sand, works a treat!
Travis, I love your videos and have learned so much from them. One question, I know you always recommend wearing gloves so fingerprints and contaminates don’t get on the bodywork. My issue is my hands sweat so much when I wear them that sweat literally pours out of the cuff of the glove all over the car! I know you’re in SoCal, how do you keep that from happening 😂
We have been adding 2 stroke to our oil ever since the VP44 pumps started having issues.... now we know adding more flow pulls the heat away by warming up the fuel in the tank. We did notice a Definite temp drop just by adding 2 stroke b4 switching to a FASS. Why we still run both. Wish the EPA though out reality. Our government rigs don't have emissions & yet rigs with all the emissions are going into limp mode trying to work supporting our fire crews. There is going to be loss of equipment & lives because of these regulations. Even science can't explain how the temps rose first followed by C02... cant blame global warming when it's backwards! Too many people are overlooking Facts. Thanks D
Thanks Travis for another exceptionally high quality video. You bring body work to a science. I have watched most all of your videos but I have one question that I could not find the answer to and this seems like a good video to ask it. If you where working on an 81 Corvette, Would you go with an epoxy primer over the gelcoat? or go to a VP2050 before using filler? I am working on my 67 El Camino and 81 Corvette (brother in laws). Thank you for the awsome lessons. We have learned so much. Fred
@@fredb1165 thank you so much honestly either way is a good option. If you don’t need any build, then a traditional epoxy is perfectly fine, but if you would like a little bit more of a barrier then the 2050 is more than sufficient. We will have a video dropping this week. That definitely will touch on this subject about choosing primers.
Seems we can't get the Rage Ultra Extra in Australia. Be nice to have such a long window to apply. I'll stick to the Ultra for now unless I can find another brand that gives longer spread time
He didn't explain in this video but a trim strip goes there and if he didn't drill out the holes they could get filled in and made harder to find after a second coat. Edit - he makes a small mention of drilling at about the 1:09:30 mark.
Best teacher I have found on RUclips for body work.
Wow, thank you!
Travis, as usual you provide an excellent tutorial on every stage of the process. You should have 1 million upvotes for every one of your videos. I thank you for all the help you have provided me.
Thanks,
Paul
Thank you so much
I’m a 25yr collision repair guy. It’s quick to see this guy knows what he’s doing. Doing filler is overly complicated by a lot of people.
Даже не досмотрев видео до конца, хочу поблагодарить за то что вы выпускаетк такие ролики. Мне очень помогло при ремонте своего авто. Смотрю с субтитрами. Не всегда перевод корректен, но смысл понятен. Спасибо и удачи вам!
Thank you very much!!
Just splined my 68 DeVille - the melomotive kit works great on those long slab sides and flat hood/deck lid - amazing the lows they pickup on the subtle curves - easy to learn - filler work in 1 week singlehanded
Very nice!
It doesn’t get better than a great video full of excellent information. Love that mix-temp chart. Was EverCoat watching you! Wow, 20 minutes at 50/50 at high temps. Great information is never boring. Thanks Travis so much stay current on our builds as I just took delivery on 4 gallons of sprayable epoxy black. I too use the contrast to find panel defects. Thank you kindly!
Thank you!!
throw the 3m in the trash... tons of people in florida are having issue with corrosion issue between the 3m filler and bare metal break threws.. even thow 3m says you can apply over bare metal 🤔 we refuse to use the 3m...and now only use the rage ultra... also good pratice to spot prime any break threws of bare metal with epoxy before you put on another coat of filler!
I've been doing everything you've been doing for 40 years on prepping but I always use acid etch primer down first on my bare metal
That is the way I was taught too , but I now use epoxy .
Can you use acid etch primer on the bair welded panel first then lay epoxy down after. before you start with your filler ?
@@TheMills21 no
Picked up a couple pointers can’t wait to give them a try. I watch every single one of your videos and have adapted my bodywork technique because of the lessons you’re teaching on this channel. I’m a one man shop at the moment I always had a body tech and I love being a painter but I’m starting to fall in love with bodywork. The feeling of accomplishment when you get it right is more gratifying than laying down a glass finish in my opinion.
I couldn’t agree more. Painters rely on good bodywork. Without it they might get it looking glassy but it’ll still be wavy. Thanks for watching!
Love this channel, but something I've yet to find a solid answer for is, how do you prepare an Epoxy primed surface, after you've let it dry? When not being used as a sealer coat to spray right over wet.
This would be for a race car application on the chassis and roll cage surfaces where you have lots of bare steel, but are wary about adding too much paint for weight purposes. First step obviously to prepare the steel and then shoot down your epoxy. That I get. But after the epoxy has dried, we're talking in weeks and months once work on the car continues, how do you sand or scratch it up, to key it enough to get paint to stick to it, considering epoxy can't be sanded.
I know normally you'd use a poly primer or similar over the epoxy, but again that would be unneccassry for weight purposes, and the fact that there is no bodyworking to be done makes that primer layer somewhat pointless. But my question stands. How would you prepare the dried and cured epoxy to put paint onto it? Just scratch it with red scotch brite? Clean it with wax and grease and just paint it?
We covered this exact topic on previous videos. These days, most epoxy primers are sandable. You can use a red scotch pad. You can wet sand It with 600 grit etc. our last few videos is a step-by-step process to go from bear Metal all the way to get you to paint and I guarantee this is in there.
Sand a ship with 10 people hahaha. Thank you for the videos!!
Our pleasure!
Very good training with nice detailed instructions. Thank you! Tom
Glad it was helpful!
Now that is an incredible amount of most valuable information ! I am saving this video for future reference. Very , very much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice I can never lay my filler that nice so good job!
The more you practice that the easier the rest is. 👌🏻
surprise surprise another very informative video lol thank you...
the melomotive guys are brilliant Pete & Lincoln do day classes around Australia They always spend time with us even a a quick call they are happy to help i realize it dosent help any one in the States but its their passion not just a job & the products are proof from the splines to their Epoxy & polyprimers...
the splines are great they also have radius ones & mini sets..
i love them
Glad you enjoyed it ! I will have to look into these radius ones. I haven’t seen those ones yet thank you.
Very informative , as usual ,
Thank you.
So nice of you
Awesome video. I've been doing body work for a number of years. I'm self taught for the most part but I learned some things in this video. Appreciate ya. Make some more if ya would please. And come to PA, id take your class.
Maybe one day
Great video as always, thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great stuff as usual Travis!
Much appreciated!
I have a lot of learning, great video 👌
Great to hear!
good job nice video all i have been using is that pricey rage ultra for the past 5 years or better once you use it yer hooked i haven't even bought any polyester glazing putty since if you get pin holes or flaws just use the rage i only use the xtra on big spreads small stuff it's not needed as you know happy mudding !!
Agreed!!
Hey dude, the trick ive learnt with carbon dust(dry guide coat) over the years is hold the pad and container together, invert, twist 1/4 turn and back, then flip back over and apply to the panel with the pad.
Doing it this way is faster and more consistently spreads the guide coat in an even color.
@@Willsy161z yes but we don’t do that because we use the guide coat for when we sand clear coat. The filler particles end up back in the applicator and scratch the clear. Especially when you are in a finer grit than 1000 grit. So when we get to clear we use a soft micro fiber to spread it. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS oh that's cool! I didn't think of that, I've never used carbon for wet sanding clear, I usually just jump grits by at least 500grit so the difference in scratches is obvious. Your way sounds faster, I'm going to give it a try!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I like the way you mix the 2 fillers you have also. I've been doing this for years, back when rage gold was cheap(can't believe platinum plus is now cheaper) I'd Mix a little evercoat easy sand into it to make it easier to spread and easier to sand, works a treat!
I liked watching my friend very good
Thanks for the visit
Excellent video......
Travis, I love your videos and have learned so much from them. One question, I know you always recommend wearing gloves so fingerprints and contaminates don’t get on the bodywork. My issue is my hands sweat so much when I wear them that sweat literally pours out of the cuff of the glove all over the car! I know you’re in SoCal, how do you keep that from happening 😂
Honestly. I wear them when I can. But when it’s 115 degrees in the shop the gloves come off. Thankfully my hands are extremely dried out
Great presentation, excellent information. Much appreciated 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome content
Mandatory video right here 👌 , fundamental work is key , 💯🙏 thnx
Glad you think so!
We have been adding 2 stroke to our oil ever since the VP44 pumps started having issues.... now we know adding more flow pulls the heat away by warming up the fuel in the tank. We did notice a Definite temp drop just by adding 2 stroke b4 switching to a FASS. Why we still run both. Wish the EPA though out reality. Our government rigs don't have emissions & yet rigs with all the emissions are going into limp mode trying to work supporting our fire crews. There is going to be loss of equipment & lives because of these regulations. Even science can't explain how the temps rose first followed by C02... cant blame global warming when it's backwards! Too many people are overlooking Facts. Thanks D
I think you are commenting on the wrong video 🤣
I appreciate the lessons.
👊🏻👌🏻
What a fantastic video
Glad you enjoyed it
Awsome info 👌 appreciate it 👍
No problem 👍
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
Thanks Travis for another exceptionally high quality video. You bring body work to a science. I have watched most all of your videos but I have one question that I could not find the answer to and this seems like a good video to ask it. If you where working on an 81 Corvette, Would you go with an epoxy primer over the gelcoat? or go to a VP2050 before using filler? I am working on my 67 El Camino and 81 Corvette (brother in laws). Thank you for the awsome lessons. We have learned so much. Fred
@@fredb1165 thank you so much honestly either way is a good option. If you don’t need any build, then a traditional epoxy is perfectly fine, but if you would like a little bit more of a barrier then the 2050 is more than sufficient. We will have a video dropping this week. That definitely will touch on this subject about choosing primers.
Thanks!
Thank you very much we really appreciate it!!
Seems we can't get the Rage Ultra Extra in Australia. Be nice to have such a long window to apply. I'll stick to the Ultra for now unless I can find another brand that gives longer spread time
I’ve heard of hardeners that give you more time. We haven’t tested them yet
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers Trav, will look into it some more. Thanks for the tips and videos 👍
Cant believe how much time you have to work it on the panel . When i do it the shit goes hard before i can find my spreader 🤔
That’s the advantage of rage ultra and ultra extra mixed 50/50
I guess it pays to weigh out the filler and hardener …. Im surprised that filler did not start to harden up way sooner
That’s because of the 50/50 mix of rage ultra and ultra extra
Not sure if i miss the part you explained why you drilled hood before applying second coat of filler??
He didn't explain in this video but a trim strip goes there and if he didn't drill out the holes they could get filled in and made harder to find after a second coat. Edit - he makes a small mention of drilling at about the 1:09:30 mark.
So you don’t lose the hole
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
My budget does not like your videos!!! LOL just ordered a set of splines
Hahahahahahahahahahaha sorry you’ll love them
Tons of body filler 🫣 Can’t watch this
⬆️ This Guy ⬆️