Amen🙏, I absolutely agree! Learning effective and long lasting procedures is very important! I too have had many failures on personal projects that I invested thousands of hours into like an obsessive compulsive. Let me tell ya…when all of that hard work inevitably fails because of a procedural flaw, a product that fails to deliver on your trust, or something you are doing wrong but don’t realize it … 🤦🏻♂️facing that situation has to be one of the most difficult and potentially discouraging experiences a person can go through. To find the motivation to start over and persevere through it all again you have to dig deep-both in your pockets and in your mind! It’s all about perspective and getting into the right mindset of “flow.” Hard setbacks that happen at what was originally perceived as the finish line are the hardest obstacles to overcome in this life but they also make for the most rewarding achievement once those hurdles are overcome! Don’t stop 3 feet from Gold they say 😊. Another Great video as always Travis; I pick up small pieces of knowledge from just about every one of them-and I’ve been suffering through this…🤔(trade, skill, passion, work) whatever we call it😂.. for way too many years when I think about it lol. Every day I just say to myself, “if your ability just matched your ego, you’d be where you need to be!” Will I ever get there?? 🤷🏻♂️maybe when I’m really old, like those kung-fu masters with the long grey beards😁
Hello guys I have sprayed gallons of ever coat optex super build with great success with a 3.0 tip set up never dry sprays very fast to apply with super build and what he not telling you is that it’s not just polyester it’s a hybrid epoxy and it’s dtm and it waterproofs but depending on how straight your surface is that you sprayed and what grit of sandpaper you start with you can final sand this product with 400-600 seal and shoot it’s works well but if you have cut throughs you should prime with a primer like vp 2050 it’s a great finish primer and it’s a dtm also. Both of these products have passed a 500 hr corrosion salt test I believe in both products
This is the only channel where I'll still watch a video on something that I use on every project and learn something or know to question something from what you guys say. I'd love a video on your process for fiberglass. Corvettes (I know it's not exactly the same thing), true fiberglass, SMC, CF, etc. Repairing cracks, adding/layering fillers, reducing or stopping warpage and bubbling, bonding supports, etc. I've done a couple Corvettes at a shop and never had issues. We had a gelcoat layer before any bodywork, and tried to separate every layer of new product. The idea was, each product would react with the next and cause issues, but I'm not sure that's the case. It doesn't happen on a metal car, it shouldn't happen on a fiberglass car. But it didn't warp, even months later. Then I did one at another shop with a different set of products and could see evidence of my work a few weeks later, which is a shame considering how much the better the new products supposedly were. From polyester to epoxy resins, weave instead of matt, panelbond instead of vettebond/duraglas/kittyhair, etc. Any new info would be great, I don't trust any other channels 😁
I've used slick sand for years and never had it dry too fast or set up in the gun and Im in Florida. I use a 2.5 or 3.0 tip if I need a lot of build. If I just need to fill sanding scratches, I reduce it and use a 2.0 or 1.75 tip. Slick Sand is catalyzed with MEK.
Your content is always so in-depth. Thank you for spending the time to explain at the graduate level. That helps even the dyi guys. The more education we learn, the better chance we have at a successful project.
As soon as you said weep hole in the lid of my cup i laughed. Absolutely right. I keep a nail in my primer gun case just to keep in my ear when priming with thick polyester. Thanks for the information and videos.
This is why I respect you so much. Unlike other channels that are set on their way and demonize a way to do something you revisited it and adapted a growth mindset. I follow TrueBlox and he convinced me that Poly definitely has it's place to get that laser straight finish. One of the Porsche's they restored that won the pebble beach was Poly'd front to back. He recommended either the Glasurit brand Polyestor or Duratec's Vinyl ester primer. Btw, I appreciate you and this channel.
I understand the issues that can happen with polyester primer. If it is super-hot. It dries super-fast. I have used Slick Sand/G2/ Super Build for as long as Super Build has been on the market. Never had any delamination. If you get it on anything else as overspray. And it dries on that part or panel. Even not sanded at all your hit! It's not going to wipe off with thinner. And you are going to work to not damage the panel or part it got on. I let some extra HB dry in a mixing cup. 4 inches thick with a paint stick in it. Been a few years and it has not cracked or broken. It's like a brick! Old school body man. 30 plus years in the game. Wet sand everything-Every time. Never had an issue on any vehicle. Just got a vehicle back yesterday. I painted it 11 years ago. Accident damage to repair. Used Slick Sand on it. Water sanded the car. Looks perfect minus the new damage. Good product! Use HB on the daily with 2.0-2.5 tip depending on what I'm priming.
I appreciate these videos more than you know! Your content is second to none. One of my favorite channels on RUclips. Thank you so much for all of the information you share. Keep up the fantastic work! 👍
I've never had any issues with polyester. I'm in NorCal and have been in this business for over 30 years. Big Dog Custom Classics. Just started watching your channel, like to see what you youngsters are you to.👍
I have learned so much from you guys over the past 4 years. I'm doing body work on the side now. Thank you for all the information and techniques you show us beginners
I worked with polyester primer awhile ago too and was not the best experience but been watching videos like this and learning and getting ready to do my front clip of panels on 67 Camaro on top of epoxy and fill. Waiting for a good morning temp since too hot right now in garage booth. Then spray doors and trunk lid and finally the body.
I’ve been in the collision industry for 19 years now. This guy probably explains this stuff the best I’ve ever heard. I direct people to this channel all the time. I can explain it til I’m blue in the face, but he does a great job.
@ellischatham7014 I'm an amateur in a home garage, but completely agree. Mr Sylvester is a superb teacher. And unlike other channels, instruction is delivered with unparalleled fluency, no umms and ahhhs. I had forgotten to just use finger tips and the guide coat has just shown me new lows on a panel I thought was done.
Upol Reface is a Dtm. Also has essentially no flash time. So no wasted product. Great value with the price. Sands great as well. Evercoat would set up in the gun before the second coat. My experience
you put out an awesome video as usual i hope any newbies that watch this or read this comment appreciate what you are doing teaching people from your experience i have done this trade every day for 35 years and i agree with every thing you show but i have to make one note being that i still have those little tubes of grease from different 500 to 600 dollar guns i bought and am to paranoid to put grease on my guns i clean my guns by spraying them with another gun and never had a needle stick again thanks for the video
Always so precise and comprehensive in your presentations, thank you very much for all these excellent advice, in particular the rule of the thumb (fist) it doesn't seem like anything but it is what allows you to adjust the smoothing like a music sheet. This job is almost like a piano lesson sometimes! Cheers from Geneva Switzerland
I had the exact issue with the breather hole in my gun's cap becoming plugged with poly! I figured it out pretty quickly, but I wish this video was available back then. At first I was seriously confused, and of course time (and pot life) is ticking away. I also find the gun can spray material faster than the 3M cup's ability to strain through the built-in screen; it's too fine. I have some cheapo paint strainers that use coarser mesh, and strain the poly before it goes into the cup. I get a good amount of chunks, so its worth it. Then just slash the 3M screen before buttoning up the cup. Great content!
If you ever worked on fiberglass, you’ll find that polyester. Hi Bill primer is your best friend it’s just knowing how do use it properly and which product is best the product feather film is very hard to work with but slick sand. You can actually water sand it, and not worry about the water rusting metal underneath it and it sounds much easier and if you will buy a quart of liquid styrene, you can use it as a reducer and it will spray like the old acrylic enamel used to and lay down without too much orange peel. I realize you steal guys don’t want to have a big film build up on your metal , and that’s fine but if you were working on a kit car or a fiberglass body of any type, this primer will hide fiberglass strands or hairs and it applied correctly. It is amazing what you can do with it. It’s like anything learn to work with it instead of a
Great video as are all of your videos! I could relate to all you said…first thing I do is take the screen/strainer off the pps system. I’ve used Feather Fill for years and gone through all the drying too soon issues but it works great. Block sand with 220 and 400 dry and levels out great!
How do you always keep and stay so clean in that BLACK wardrobe? (One of my typical faves btw lol.).........Thanks again for the instructional tools. You have an amazing knack at explaining all the stuff as well! I used to use/HAD to use Featherfill back when (in the Midwest too!), but man, when they finally came out with the 4-1 SuperBuild poly? For me, THAT stuff became my "go to" for high build polyester primer. The mixing process just makes it soooo much easier. Plus? Way more working time....Thx again
Outstanding polyester info. I learned the hard way about how much mek to use, use half the reccomended amount over 76 degrees. Ive had polymerization happen 5 minutes after i mixed it at the reccomemded ratio, My sata jet b passed away from polyester harding of the passages R.I.P.
I’m in the composites industry and I normally use polyester primer from duratec but what I don’t see in the video or the comments is the different catalyst. The most common catalyst is mekp 925 thats what all tds are made with in mind which is good for 70 degrees or so but there is also mekp 30 or mch or mcp catalyst that are far slower and better for high temp environments. Theres even mekp 9h which would make it faster if day your painting in a really cold environment. In my shop we’re not temperature controlled we use about 5 different catalyst throughout the year sometimes in the morning we use one and in the afternoon we use another.
Another superb video -thank you. Would really like to see a video where you work those recessed panels - in particular how to work the stubborn areas at the edges of a recessed panel I switch out blocks, but dont really know if its very efficient ...or correct. Recessed corners are a real challenge.
I don't like using polyester on anything I really care about and I rarely shoot it. Your tip about spraying all the coats on a panel before moving onto the next panel to help promote chemical adhesion it something I'm going to remember. Thank you for that one.
you talk a lot and I am learning a lot, but I wish I knew half of what you talk about .... great video for an old guy like me thanks... keep up the great work
I use SuperBuild all the time and havent had any issues. I use the 3M gun so I can switch tips quick if it starts to get too thick. I do reduce the primer a tiny bit with lacquer thinner, that may not be approved but it flows out a lot better. Havent tried the pink stuff yet.
Can you use Poly with a Turbine Gun??? They did make a product called Feather Fill in the early 80's and it would need zero air moisture for good adhesion or a heated booth,the expense on this newer products seem not to be cost/time Effective for daily driver vehicle's!
I understand why you're using the poly but it seems like more trouble than its worth. I used the Optex 4 years ago to finish a 79 TA when the VP2050 was scarce. Hated it. The price is attractive and the guide coat concept is good. I didn't like how it sprayed or sanded. I was using a 2.5 and still found myself thinning it out to get through the gun. Sanded like concrete. I also confirmed with the Evecoat rep about DTM characteristics. Ive been using the built in guide coat technique for years. Whatever primer im using I'll mix in a touch of black toner on my last coat. Its not as easy to cheat as the powder or aerosol (not that you should i guess). Great video! Those panels look challenging to block and cut and buff. Interested to see the finished product.
I used to use Feather Fill for lacquer and gel-coat crazing and checking. It acts as an overlay bridge, but for the work involved i would rather strip, surface prep and high solids prime. There is also the concern for old wax in the crazing that cannot be removed, even with a lacquer thinner wipe down. It gets sealed in.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS In general, it's a nuisance product by standard unless you are using it for a specific needed purpose. It's in a sense a cut-corner product to get it out the shop door. My concern is customer satisfaction and not seeing their car back in the shop 1.5 years later for product failure due to un-forseen's. I've done far too many lessons learned and been forced to eat one too many do too product adhesion failure. You explained it all in application. Like I said, it has an intended purpose but would rather do quality high solids primer builds and without catalysts ie.. epoxy primers and components. Much of this stuff is so overkill. New market products keep chemical engineers paid. If a quality paint job lasts 5-6 years with normal use then whats the point of all the overly priced expensive chemistry. The automakers get theirs first, the the overpriced insurance and so the auto-body product manufacturers are going to get theirs. That is why paint is $800 a gallon. I used to pay $23 for a gallon of Wimbledon White DuPont Centauri and $7 for a gallon of DTL-16 All purpose which is around $100 now. Overall finishes have maybe improved 10-12% with all the horribly expensive materials. So how good is that expensive SATA HPLV gun over an older model Binks or Sharpe siphon. A good shop is still going to cut n' buff.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS actually you would be surprised Sherwin Williams paint products are designed for tip sizes from 1.0-1.5 the SU 522 I use if everything is right and after I've used a epoxy primer I can do 4 coats and if I need to I can do a couple more after first blocking
Hello I watch you all the time great info. I have a question about weld ghost lines after the car is painted. I have a 57 chevy 2dr post I’m restoring. As you know all the new quarter panels you get today have a vertical seam in them. I’m worried about welding ghost line after the car is painted. Can ghost lines be prevented.
I can't fathom spraying at 110°. The DTM I use suggests 78° surface temp(Tamco 660), and even that is grueling to me. A couple of other things are 85° and after about one panel, I'd give you any secrets entrusted to me to get out of there.
Really need to use a 3.0 tip, it's a game changer with spray poly. Iwata has a budget line AZ3 I think is the gun. $175ish and can get up to a 3.5 tip. I got a 3.0 and it allows me to move speed wise like a normal high build primer. I wouldn't consider anything less then a 3.0 with the heat you have to deal with. I think a lot of your headaches would of been avoided.
I also think it may be DTM but it's not the best. I always spray epoxy primer 1st and then the spray poly 24hrs later. I've used the DTM spray poly enough on bare metal and I've never been impressed with how it feathers when you burn through to metal. Always get a slight shiny ring around the burn through whereas epoxy with feather to a cloudy edge.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I like VP, I just haven't been told by people in the know, it shrinks less then Poly. So for that reason, I always top my filler with poly. I have used the VP mixed 2:1:1 as a final prime that I've sanded to 600 and went straight to base. VP is also king in the restoration world for coating suspension and chassis stuff. 1 product to go DTM, that you can sand and then top coat.
@@ChasingPerfection I agree partially. I will not do any suspension or chassis with vp2050 for a couple reasons. Although they claim “now” on the TDS that it can be top coated wet on wet it didn’t used to say that. I’ve also had personal experiences on a roll cage I did years ago that I did wet on wet with single stage satin black and it pulled off when the interior guy taped it up. Now I will only use a traditional thin epoxy for wet on wet painting. I started using a Delfleet epoxy ESU482 I love it more than the DP90 and it’s cheaper
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I never did wet on wet with VP. It doesn't lay smooth enough for me to produce a nice final finish. I don't like painting over sealer peal so I always plan on sanding it when I use it. Where it was a time saver on suspension and chassis stuff, is you didn't need an epoxy 1st prior to a primer. 3 coats was enough to fill 70+ yrs of minor rust pits and could be sanded to a ready for paint finish.
I just simply dont use polyester. I work in a do everything home garage. Like you said, its susceptible to all kinds of contaminates. Too many things can go wrong. However, I wont disagree. There are certainly circumstances where a polyester is very beneficial.
Poly needs to be screened, everything that goes through the gun needs to be screened. I shoot 4:1 poly through a pps lid daily and never have a problem. Your primer wasn't mixed enough if there's chunks! And those chunks aren't catalyzed if they ended up on those panels
7:30 in... "It will wick and and it will absorb any moisture." I just started stripping off filler from my 1958 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite and found rust beneath the body filler in some places. Is this possibly caused by someone slapping on filler and waiting too long before priming and painting?
Could be yes. But polyester filler uses a hardener with benzene peroxide in it. That will also cause rust. Which is why I recommend epoxy first then filler
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I was going to ask about that. I was taught years (50+) ago to put filler directly over bare metal, then prime. If the filler adheres well to the primer sounds like that is the way to go. Thanks for the response!
No reason to diss polyester primer if you use polyester fillers lol. Some are way better than others though. Vinyl ester primer is a level above regular polyesters though-100% waterproof, stronger, and more temperature stable. Evercoat's 4:1 finish sand is a great compromise if you don't like the hard sanding of optix or super build. I use and abuse it daily and have never seen a failure in 4 years.
Have you ever tried a cup gun with polyester? I don't use a standard spray gun anymore when using polyester. The cup gun will never clog beyond the pot life
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS he's talking about a hard cup, not a pps. I use a cheep "cup" gun when I slick sand. It came with a 3.0 and I drilled it out for more material flow, works well.
Do you have anything going in @SEMA 24? Also the Optex sprays Ok and I have good luck with it, but if it cures more than a couple weeks without touching it, the pink guide coat disappears completely.
Sorry I've had good and bad with optex. Will never use again. It's to much of hit and miss with good gallons. I was introduced to clausen rust defender. Heck of lot more user friendly plus get straight from manufacturer.
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS a white hood I did had pink blotches all over after about 3 weeks cromax xp base and spi clear but used that same can on other projects and never had issues and optex seems to gum the sand paper the first couple swipes like some cheap body fillers do the regular don't do that .
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS lol no not the pressure pot system . Just the pressurized guns. I still have my pressurized mattsons sprays guns. There very rare and hard to find now .
You really have to see what dumba$$ bad chad did, he figured he could mix up the whole gallon, i really pissed myself laughing, talk about being dumb. Yeah, he mixed a WHOLE GALLON and figured he could shoot it on, until it hardened on him. What a waste of time and money. But everyone who watches his stuff thinks he a pro at what he does, which to me is dumb. I would never follow his advice
I will NEVER SPRAY EVERCOATS OPTICS. ITS COMPLETE GARBAGE. JUST WATCH WHAT HAPPENED TO PETE AT SOUTH WEST ROD AND CUSTOM. IF ITS THE G2 STRAIGHT GRAY, IM OKAY WITH IT. BUT THE PINK CRAP IS CRAP, IT BLEEDS THROUGH
As soon as you said weep hole in the lid of my cup i laughed. Absolutely right. I keep a nail in my primer gun case just to keep in my ear when priming with thick polyester. Thanks for the information and videos.
Best channel on the autobody, paint, restoration topic. I watch all of your videos.
We are never too old to learn.
@@danielwilliams2994 thank you so much
Amen🙏, I absolutely agree!
Learning effective and long lasting procedures is very important! I too have had many failures on personal projects that I invested thousands of hours into like an obsessive compulsive. Let me tell ya…when all of that hard work inevitably fails because of a procedural flaw, a product that fails to deliver on your trust, or something you are doing wrong but don’t realize it … 🤦🏻♂️facing that situation has to be one of the most difficult and potentially discouraging experiences a person can go through.
To find the motivation to start over and persevere through it all again you have to dig deep-both in your pockets and in your mind! It’s all about perspective and getting into the right mindset of “flow.” Hard setbacks that happen at what was originally perceived as the finish line are the hardest obstacles to overcome in this life but they also make for the most rewarding achievement once those hurdles are overcome! Don’t stop 3 feet from Gold they say 😊.
Another Great video as always Travis; I pick up small pieces of knowledge from just about every one of them-and I’ve been suffering through this…🤔(trade, skill, passion, work) whatever we call it😂.. for way too many years when I think about it lol. Every day I just say to myself, “if your ability just matched your ego, you’d be where you need to be!” Will I ever get there?? 🤷🏻♂️maybe when I’m really old, like those kung-fu masters with the long grey beards😁
Hello guys I have sprayed gallons of ever coat optex super build with great success with a 3.0 tip set up never dry sprays very fast to apply with super build and what he not telling you is that it’s not just polyester it’s a hybrid epoxy and it’s dtm and it waterproofs but depending on how straight your surface is that you sprayed and what grit of sandpaper you start with you can final sand this product with 400-600 seal and shoot it’s works well but if you have cut throughs you should prime with a primer like vp 2050 it’s a great finish primer and it’s a dtm also. Both of these products have passed a 500 hr corrosion salt test I believe in both products
Great info thanks!!
Is high build primer so you can use less bondo or bot at all in some cases?
This is the only channel where I'll still watch a video on something that I use on every project and learn something or know to question something from what you guys say.
I'd love a video on your process for fiberglass. Corvettes (I know it's not exactly the same thing), true fiberglass, SMC, CF, etc. Repairing cracks, adding/layering fillers, reducing or stopping warpage and bubbling, bonding supports, etc.
I've done a couple Corvettes at a shop and never had issues. We had a gelcoat layer before any bodywork, and tried to separate every layer of new product. The idea was, each product would react with the next and cause issues, but I'm not sure that's the case. It doesn't happen on a metal car, it shouldn't happen on a fiberglass car. But it didn't warp, even months later.
Then I did one at another shop with a different set of products and could see evidence of my work a few weeks later, which is a shame considering how much the better the new products supposedly were. From polyester to epoxy resins, weave instead of matt, panelbond instead of vettebond/duraglas/kittyhair, etc.
Any new info would be great, I don't trust any other channels 😁
@@InertiaEFT thank you very much. We have to do a modified vet in the near future. I’ll keep that in mind!
As always you are showcasing what professionalism looks like i solute you my friend ❤
Thank you! Cheers!
I've used slick sand for years and never had it dry too fast or set up in the gun and Im in Florida. I use a 2.5 or 3.0 tip if I need a lot of build. If I just need to fill sanding scratches, I reduce it and use a 2.0 or 1.75 tip. Slick Sand is catalyzed with MEK.
Your content is always so in-depth. Thank you for spending the time to explain at the graduate level. That helps even the dyi guys. The more education we learn, the better chance we have at a successful project.
You are so welcome!
As soon as you said weep hole in the lid of my cup i laughed.
Absolutely right.
I keep a nail in my primer gun case just to keep in my ear when priming with thick polyester.
Thanks for the information and videos.
@@danielwilliams2994 haha thank you
This is why I respect you so much. Unlike other channels that are set on their way and demonize a way to do something you revisited it and adapted a growth mindset. I follow TrueBlox and he convinced me that Poly definitely has it's place to get that laser straight finish. One of the Porsche's they restored that won the pebble beach was Poly'd front to back. He recommended either the Glasurit brand Polyestor or Duratec's Vinyl ester primer. Btw, I appreciate you and this channel.
Thank you. I also follow Tyler’s work they are spot on 👍🏻
I understand the issues that can happen with polyester primer. If it is super-hot. It dries super-fast. I have used Slick Sand/G2/ Super Build for as long as Super Build has been on the market. Never had any delamination. If you get it on anything else as overspray. And it dries on that part or panel. Even not sanded at all your hit! It's not going to wipe off with thinner. And you are going to work to not damage the panel or part it got on. I let some extra HB dry in a mixing cup. 4 inches thick with a paint stick in it. Been a few years and it has not cracked or broken. It's like a brick! Old school body man. 30 plus years in the game. Wet sand everything-Every time. Never had an issue on any vehicle. Just got a vehicle back yesterday. I painted it 11 years ago. Accident damage to repair. Used Slick Sand on it. Water sanded the car. Looks perfect minus the new damage. Good product! Use HB on the daily with 2.0-2.5 tip depending on what I'm priming.
I appreciate these videos more than you know! Your content is second to none. One of my favorite channels on RUclips. Thank you so much for all of the information you share. Keep up the fantastic work! 👍
Glad you like them! Thank you
I've never had any issues with polyester. I'm in NorCal and have been in this business for over 30 years. Big Dog Custom Classics. Just started watching your channel, like to see what you youngsters are you to.👍
I have learned so much from you guys over the past 4 years. I'm doing body work on the side now. Thank you for all the information and techniques you show us beginners
@@samrizner7304 awesome that’s where it all started for us was just a side hustle.
I worked with polyester primer awhile ago too and was not the best experience but been watching videos like this and learning and getting ready to do my front clip of panels on 67 Camaro on top of epoxy and fill. Waiting for a good morning temp since too hot right now in garage booth. Then spray doors and trunk lid and finally the body.
I just want to say thank you for being so informative
@@cliffjamerson3107 you are very welcome
I love featherfill g2. It's hard to cut at first, but man, my stuff is straight!!
I’ve been in the collision industry for 19 years now. This guy probably explains this stuff the best I’ve ever heard. I direct people to this channel all the time. I can explain it til I’m blue in the face, but he does a great job.
Thank you very much we try our best
@ellischatham7014 I'm an amateur in a home garage, but completely agree. Mr Sylvester is a superb teacher. And unlike other channels, instruction is delivered with unparalleled fluency, no umms and ahhhs. I had forgotten to just use finger tips and the guide coat has just shown me new lows on a panel I thought was done.
Upol Reface is a Dtm. Also has essentially no flash time. So no wasted product. Great value with the price. Sands great as well. Evercoat would set up in the gun before the second coat. My experience
you put out an awesome video as usual i hope any newbies that watch this or read this comment appreciate what you are doing teaching people from your experience i have done this trade every day for 35 years and i agree with every thing you show but i have to make one note being that i still have those little tubes of grease from different 500 to 600 dollar guns i bought and am to paranoid to put grease on my guns i clean my guns by spraying them with another gun and never had a needle stick again thanks for the video
I’ve never had an issue with the gun lube 👌🏻👍🏻
Great information ! Thanks for the small details, they’re very helpful. Love this channel !
@@fulltilt6 thank you
Appreciate you sharing the knowledge as always Travis. Good luck with your SEMA quest!
@@chevelleranch7481 thank you!!
Always so precise and comprehensive in your presentations, thank you very much for all these excellent advice, in particular the rule of the thumb (fist) it doesn't seem like anything but it is what allows you to adjust the smoothing like a music sheet. This job is almost like a piano lesson sometimes! Cheers from Geneva Switzerland
Glad it was helpful!
I like your fist analogy. I will try that today.
I had the exact issue with the breather hole in my gun's cap becoming plugged with poly! I figured it out pretty quickly, but I wish this video was available back then. At first I was seriously confused, and of course time (and pot life) is ticking away. I also find the gun can spray material faster than the 3M cup's ability to strain through the built-in screen; it's too fine. I have some cheapo paint strainers that use coarser mesh, and strain the poly before it goes into the cup. I get a good amount of chunks, so its worth it. Then just slash the 3M screen before buttoning up the cup. Great content!
Thank you
If you ever worked on fiberglass, you’ll find that polyester. Hi Bill primer is your best friend it’s just knowing how do use it properly and which product is best the product feather film is very hard to work with but slick sand. You can actually water sand it, and not worry about the water rusting metal underneath it and it sounds much easier and if you will buy a quart of liquid styrene, you can use it as a reducer and it will spray like the old acrylic enamel used to and lay down without too much orange peel. I realize you steal guys don’t want to have a big film build up on your metal , and that’s fine but if you were working on a kit car or a fiberglass body of any type, this primer will hide fiberglass strands or hairs and it applied correctly. It is amazing what you can do with it. It’s like anything learn to work with it instead of a
Great video as are all of your videos! I could relate to all you said…first thing I do is take the screen/strainer off the pps system. I’ve used Feather Fill for years and gone through all the drying too soon issues but it works great. Block sand with 220 and 400 dry and levels out great!
👍🏻👍🏻🙌🏻
How do you always keep and stay so clean in that BLACK wardrobe? (One of my typical faves btw lol.).........Thanks again for the instructional tools. You have an amazing knack at explaining all the stuff as well! I used to use/HAD to use Featherfill back when (in the Midwest too!), but man, when they finally came out with the 4-1 SuperBuild poly? For me, THAT stuff became my "go to" for high build polyester primer. The mixing process just makes it soooo much easier. Plus? Way more working time....Thx again
Thank you!! Me clean? Never! Lol
Was just looking for info on poly yesterday, great timing.
@@StreetSoldier88 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Outstanding polyester info. I learned the hard way about how much mek to use, use half the reccomended amount over 76 degrees. Ive had polymerization happen 5 minutes after i mixed it at the reccomemded ratio, My sata jet b passed away from polyester harding of the passages R.I.P.
I just bought that gun actualky
Can you please do a video about masking?
Great idea
I’m in the composites industry and I normally use polyester primer from duratec but what I don’t see in the video or the comments is the different catalyst. The most common catalyst is mekp 925 thats what all tds are made with in mind which is good for 70 degrees or so but there is also mekp 30 or mch or mcp catalyst that are far slower and better for high temp environments. Theres even mekp 9h which would make it faster if day your painting in a really cold environment. In my shop we’re not temperature controlled we use about 5 different catalyst throughout the year sometimes in the morning we use one and in the afternoon we use another.
Another superb video -thank you. Would really like to see a video where you work those recessed panels - in particular how to work the stubborn areas at the edges of a recessed panel I switch out blocks, but dont really know if its very efficient ...or correct. Recessed corners are a real challenge.
Great suggestion! We will keep that in mind.
I don't like using polyester on anything I really care about and I rarely shoot it. Your tip about spraying all the coats on a panel before moving onto the next panel to help promote chemical adhesion it something I'm going to remember. Thank you for that one.
I agree we rarely use it. But I can see certain benefits here and there
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 👍
you talk a lot and I am learning a lot, but I wish I knew half of what you talk about .... great video for an old guy like me thanks... keep up the great work
I appreciate that!
I use SuperBuild all the time and havent had any issues. I use the 3M gun so I can switch tips quick if it starts to get too thick. I do reduce the primer a tiny bit with lacquer thinner, that may not be approved but it flows out a lot better. Havent tried the pink stuff yet.
Great point. Revisiting. Ppg basecoats were that for me.
Can you use Poly with a Turbine Gun??? They did make a product called Feather Fill in the early 80's and it would need zero air moisture for good adhesion or a heated booth,the expense on this newer products seem not to be cost/time Effective for daily driver vehicle's!
I’m unsure sorry
Wonderful information , and very much appreciated.
Our pleasure!
I understand why you're using the poly but it seems like more trouble than its worth. I used the Optex 4 years ago to finish a 79 TA when the VP2050 was scarce. Hated it. The price is attractive and the guide coat concept is good. I didn't like how it sprayed or sanded. I was using a 2.5 and still found myself thinning it out to get through the gun. Sanded like concrete. I also confirmed with the Evecoat rep about DTM characteristics.
Ive been using the built in guide coat technique for years. Whatever primer im using I'll mix in a touch of black toner on my last coat. Its not as easy to cheat as the powder or aerosol (not that you should i guess).
Great video! Those panels look challenging to block and cut and buff. Interested to see the finished product.
Thank you. We’re going to give it all we have for such a short time. It will be in the cerakote booth in central hall. 👍🏻wish us luck
Sounds like the big thing with polyester is don't work in an overheated environment.
I used to use Feather Fill for lacquer and gel-coat crazing and checking. It acts as an overlay bridge, but for the work involved i would rather strip, surface prep and high solids prime. There is also the concern for old wax in the crazing that cannot be removed, even with a lacquer thinner wipe down. It gets sealed in.
Not sure what your getting at
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS In general, it's a nuisance product by standard unless you are using it for a specific needed purpose. It's in a sense a cut-corner product to get it out the shop door. My concern is customer satisfaction and not seeing their car back in the shop 1.5 years later for product failure due to un-forseen's. I've done far too many lessons learned and been forced to eat one too many do too product adhesion failure.
You explained it all in application. Like I said, it has an intended purpose but would rather do quality high solids primer builds and without catalysts ie.. epoxy primers and components. Much of this stuff is so overkill. New market products keep chemical engineers paid. If a quality paint job lasts 5-6 years with normal use then whats the point of all the overly priced expensive chemistry. The automakers get theirs first, the the overpriced insurance and so the auto-body product manufacturers are going to get theirs. That is why paint is $800 a gallon. I used to pay $23 for a gallon of Wimbledon White DuPont Centauri and $7 for a gallon of DTL-16 All purpose which is around $100 now. Overall finishes have maybe improved 10-12% with all the horribly expensive materials. So how good is that expensive SATA HPLV gun over an older model Binks or Sharpe siphon. A good shop is still going to cut n' buff.
Why would you allow primer to harden inside your cup?
It only took minutes that’s why lol
Can acetone to thin I was told buy old paint store ? Is that OK was little bit
Yes
I started using a DTM primer through Sherwin williams that has very nice build and I can spray it with a 1.3 tip
Not getting much build with a tip that small
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS actually you would be surprised Sherwin Williams paint products are designed for tip sizes from 1.0-1.5 the SU 522 I use if everything is right and after I've used a epoxy primer I can do 4 coats and if I need to I can do a couple more after first blocking
Hello I watch you all the time great info. I have a question about weld ghost lines after the car is painted. I have a 57 chevy 2dr post I’m restoring. As you know all the new quarter panels you get today have a vertical seam in them. I’m worried about welding ghost line after the car is painted. Can ghost lines be prevented.
Yes if you watch our patch panel video on the 61 impala
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thank you
Binks made a gun oil,light blue
Non-petroluem base,zero fish eyes and used in gun repacking.
That’s basically what I’m referring to only difference is the manufacturer I use the devilbiss
Great content,very informative l need all the info l can get when l paint my 72 Barracuda
Glad to help
I can't fathom spraying at 110°. The DTM I use suggests 78° surface temp(Tamco 660), and even that is grueling to me. A couple of other things are 85° and after about one panel, I'd give you any secrets entrusted to me to get out of there.
Yeah it’s been brutal next year we need AC in the shop
Thanks so much for the great information
Glad it was helpful!
Really need to use a 3.0 tip, it's a game changer with spray poly. Iwata has a budget line AZ3 I think is the gun. $175ish and can get up to a 3.5 tip. I got a 3.0 and it allows me to move speed wise like a normal high build primer. I wouldn't consider anything less then a 3.0 with the heat you have to deal with. I think a lot of your headaches would of been avoided.
I also think it may be DTM but it's not the best. I always spray epoxy primer 1st and then the spray poly 24hrs later. I've used the DTM spray poly enough on bare metal and I've never been impressed with how it feathers when you burn through to metal. Always get a slight shiny ring around the burn through whereas epoxy with feather to a cloudy edge.
I agree I just bought a poly gun 2.5 the other day to try out. I’m still a fan of epoxy based high build primers.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I like VP, I just haven't been told by people in the know, it shrinks less then Poly. So for that reason, I always top my filler with poly. I have used the VP mixed 2:1:1 as a final prime that I've sanded to 600 and went straight to base. VP is also king in the restoration world for coating suspension and chassis stuff. 1 product to go DTM, that you can sand and then top coat.
@@ChasingPerfection I agree partially. I will not do any suspension or chassis with vp2050 for a couple reasons. Although they claim “now” on the TDS that it can be top coated wet on wet it didn’t used to say that. I’ve also had personal experiences on a roll cage I did years ago that I did wet on wet with single stage satin black and it pulled off when the interior guy taped it up. Now I will only use a traditional thin epoxy for wet on wet painting. I started using a Delfleet epoxy ESU482 I love it more than the DP90 and it’s cheaper
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I never did wet on wet with VP. It doesn't lay smooth enough for me to produce a nice final finish. I don't like painting over sealer peal so I always plan on sanding it when I use it. Where it was a time saver on suspension and chassis stuff, is you didn't need an epoxy 1st prior to a primer. 3 coats was enough to fill 70+ yrs of minor rust pits and could be sanded to a ready for paint finish.
I just simply dont use polyester. I work in a do everything home garage. Like you said, its susceptible to all kinds of contaminates. Too many things can go wrong. However, I wont disagree. There are certainly circumstances where a polyester is very beneficial.
Poly needs to be screened, everything that goes through the gun needs to be screened. I shoot 4:1 poly through a pps lid daily and never have a problem. Your primer wasn't mixed enough if there's chunks! And those chunks aren't catalyzed if they ended up on those panels
Yeah ok 🙄
7:30 in... "It will wick and and it will absorb any moisture." I just started stripping off filler from my 1958 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite and found rust beneath the body filler in some places. Is this possibly caused by someone slapping on filler and waiting too long before priming and painting?
Could be yes. But polyester filler uses a hardener with benzene peroxide in it. That will also cause rust. Which is why I recommend epoxy first then filler
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I was going to ask about that. I was taught years (50+) ago to put filler directly over bare metal, then prime. If the filler adheres well to the primer sounds like that is the way to go. Thanks for the response!
Have you tried Clausen all u need? You may like it.
@@davepaster3331 not yet but I will be ordering some soon.
Where can I find the dates and information about the auto body classes?
Visit our website sylvester’scustoms.com and there is a button that you can click to contact us. We need to update our class dates for 2025 soon.
No reason to diss polyester primer if you use polyester fillers lol. Some are way better than others though. Vinyl ester primer is a level above regular polyesters though-100% waterproof, stronger, and more temperature stable. Evercoat's 4:1 finish sand is a great compromise if you don't like the hard sanding of optix or super build. I use and abuse it daily and have never seen a failure in 4 years.
Have you ever tried a cup gun with polyester? I don't use a standard spray gun anymore when using polyester. The cup gun will never clog beyond the pot life
You mean a pressure pot?
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS he's talking about a hard cup, not a pps. I use a cheep "cup" gun when I slick sand. It came with a 3.0 and I drilled it out for more material flow, works well.
Do you have anything going in @SEMA 24?
Also the Optex sprays Ok and I have good luck with it, but if it cures more than a couple weeks without touching it, the pink guide coat disappears completely.
Yes this Willy’s truck will be in the cerakote booth in central hall.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Awesome!
Central Hall is my favorite, hope to run into you there….
@@chops6474 awesome!!! See ya there
Do u always use sealer before basecoat if so what grit paper r u using
Yes I prefer 600 wet before sealer
Thank you
You're welcome
Sorry I've had good and bad with optex. Will never use again. It's to much of hit and miss with good gallons. I was introduced to clausen rust defender. Heck of lot more user friendly plus get straight from manufacturer.
I’ve heard great things about that stuff I will order some next! Thx!
I've been using the ORIGINAL Super Build for years without ANY probs...IT IS GOOD stuff (for Poly high Build) Lol.....
I am not in that business, just doing some repairs for my van, I switched to use CRE-321 sandable primer and Evercoat fillers, so far so good.
@@petermelnikov682 we use that primer also it’s in my top 3 for sure. 👍🏻
I had problems with optex but the straight up superbuild was ok sooner have 2050 but can't get it but cre is available is it any good
What issues did you have with optex? Both 2050 and CRE are great
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS a white hood I did had pink blotches all over after about 3 weeks cromax xp base and spi clear but used that same can on other projects and never had issues and optex seems to gum the sand paper the first couple swipes like some cheap body fillers do the regular don't do that .
I use pressurized spray guns to spray polyester primer . It’s sprays flawlessly.
Bet that’s fun to clean out of the lines lol I just bought a pressure pot last week
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS lol no not the pressure pot system . Just the pressurized guns. I still have my pressurized mattsons sprays guns. There very rare and hard to find now .
@@markisredmond9890 I’ve legit not seen these.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS check ur email I sent pics of what I’m using
Ohh s**t; here comes Polyester Sylvester!
Hahahahahahahahahahaha
It sounds like it just isn't worth using poly for safety reasons. And just use vp epoxy.
I agree with you I feel they all can serve a purpose if used correctly
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
expanations are very good! My wife said you must have daughters as i do?
Thank you very much. I actually have two boys. Lol
I will never ever use polyester primer not ever !
You really have to see what dumba$$ bad chad did, he figured he could mix up the whole gallon, i really pissed myself laughing, talk about being dumb. Yeah, he mixed a WHOLE GALLON and figured he could shoot it on, until it hardened on him. What a waste of time and money. But everyone who watches his stuff thinks he a pro at what he does, which to me is dumb. I would never follow his advice
I couldn’t agree more 🤣🤣🤣
I will NEVER SPRAY EVERCOATS OPTICS. ITS COMPLETE GARBAGE. JUST WATCH WHAT HAPPENED TO PETE AT SOUTH WEST ROD AND CUSTOM. IF ITS THE G2 STRAIGHT GRAY, IM OKAY WITH IT. BUT THE PINK CRAP IS CRAP, IT BLEEDS THROUGH
I quit using polyester probably 25 years ago. Basically to me is people that don't know how to do body work that uses that shit
I agree with you actually. It’s a crutch. In my case I used it as a crutch to help with all the areas I knew we were running out of time with.
As soon as you said weep hole in the lid of my cup i laughed.
Absolutely right.
I keep a nail in my primer gun case just to keep in my ear when priming with thick polyester.
Thanks for the information and videos.
You bet!! 👌🏻