Came out looking sweet, man. I F**KING HATED spraying tri-coats at first. I went to a vo tech school for autobody repair, but tri-coats weren't really a thing when I was in school so I pretty much had to learn by spraying them in the Bodyshop I worked at. Nowadays (after 25 years of spraying) I don't have problems with any tri-coats, but learning as you go sucked and it cost me a good amount of money in those learning experiences since I was flat rate. I have a 08 Cadillac DTS that I inherited last month that I'm getting ready to repaint due to the fact the whole passenger side is delaminating. I'm doing a black base with a ZBB Black to Blue hypershift pearl top coat from KP Pigments and I'm actually excited AF to spray it. I already dyed the roof black, tinted the windows, have a set of 22" wheels that I painted satin black and tinted the tail lights and headlights with a candy black/clear mix. I'm pretty sure the DTS is going to look sick AF murdered out with the black to blue hypershift. I'm actually thinking of spraying 2 or 3 lights coats of candy black over the ZBB just to give it some more depth and to darken the blue up a little bit. Not sure as of yet, though.
Wow man. First off, I relate to the entire gradual progression while on the line! Classes maybe taught me 10% of what you actually encounter while in the shop, if that. I’m just having fun now and enjoy when I encounter a challenge. As for ur Cadillac, I’d love to see how that project turns out. Sounds like you got it all mapped out! Please keep me posted on that!
@@JaySprayz I'd say 10% is about accurate. Lol. Idk about where you are, but I fortunately had a few veterans in the dealership I worked at that were more than willing to share their knowledge with me and help with anything I needed which I was extremely grateful for. If it wasn't for them I more than likely wouldn't have been able to hone my skills. As far as the Caddy goes, I honestly wouldn't do anything to it if it wasn't delaminating, but since it is, I'm going all out on it especially since it only has 40k miles on it and since I got the car for free. I maybe 47, but I still love to do my own thing and make my vehicles look unique. Once I saw that Blue to black hypershift pearl I knew I had to do it on that car. It more than likely won't be 100% finished until spring since I'm having a buddy do some motor and exhaust work on it as well. I know it's a Caddy, but I also want it to sound mean so we're doing cam swaps, doing some head work (port and polish and replacing the stock head bolts with ARP studs. He is also going to build me a full 3" stainless exhaust with resonator delete and Magnaflow Performance mufflers. Hoping to have it do around 400-450hp and sound like a Caddy on steroids. Lmfao. I'll keep you in mind and send you a link to a little video I'll do of it once it's all done and road worthy. I can tell you definitely love and take pride in your skills. Keep up the good work brother.
So… to my understanding (after speaking to my paint rep.), most OEM factories use a variety of paint manufacturers based on color creation, cost, etc. Although, 80% of North American factories use primarily PPG, Axalta, and BASF. There are a handful of other paint manufacturers like Sherwin-Williams and AkzoNobel that also supply a high amount of the industry as well. So far in my career, I have enjoyed PPG the most for many reasons, but each carries its own pros and cons.
Thanks for the reply. I just had a repair job on my Finish Line Red and unfortunately there's an issue with metamerism. Match looks good in daylight but is mismatched under fluorescent lighting. My understanding is you need to use the same pigments or OEM to avoid metamerism
What kind of static gun would you get if money were no object? I ask this way because we’re all in different situations and you might not even like that one😅. It’s such an expensive tool to buy and everyone is sponsored up towards an “opinion”.
Deep question! So anticipate spending ATLEAST 1k for anything decent and upwards of 2k for a “name brand” stat gun… I only have experience with Stat Gun and Ionstar and honestly, I’d go either way. I would’ve said Ionstar before the Stat Gun Pro just came out due to its new smaller size, and booth friendliness (due to the extreme temps). But… I went a decade without using one and I managed fine. At this point, I’ll take whatever tools I can to make my job and finished product that much faster and closer to a factory finish. Static electricity is a real thing though and DOES alter paint jobs so I’d for sure recommend one if it’s possible. Between us, we even charge insurance companies a small dollar amount to use the tool, it’s in everyone’s best interest!
@@JaySprayz Glad there’s another person who realizes they’re not just for plastic parts unlike these reps out here. I do the tack and blow in one direction. You’ll do well on here provided the algorithm lets you be seen.
Oh hell yeah… a fellow painter. I get nerdy over this stuff so thank you for the follow and kind words. So far it’s been a fun and wild journey figuring all this online stuff. I’m getting old! ✌🏼
hey jay excellent work can you do some prep work before paint what grit sand paper to use when to use it when to use interface pads what distance to paint the different stages thank you
great job mate 👍👍👍 great video just found ya channel 💪🏻💪🏻
I appreciate the compliments! Greatly. Comments like that make it make sense 🙏🏽
Damn bro. Nice job. Clear slick af
🙏🏽 thank you much man.
This video needs more comments and thumbs up!
Sata for color and iwata for clear, nice combination is my combination too 😊
Hahaha it’s the 1, 2, knockout. My favorite combo. Good taste my friend!
So satisfying, great video 👍🏼
Thanks lil lady
Wow that’s amazing, looks gorgeous ❤ you’re a true pro
Wow, thank you so much… I love that others love it!
WOW. Jaren, That is Superb work.
Thank you very much! I love what I do
Good to see a tech using a rotary for cutting and polishing finishing too 🎉
Guess I’m a little old school now at this point lol
@ nothing wrong with that brotha combinations for different scenarios
@@robsantiago118only thing that matters is how the customer feels!
Nice job, looks awesome!
Thank you 🙏🏽
I'm a new sub man... great job 👏🏾
Thank you much!
Great job man and great video, it looks mint 👌
I appreciate that. Thank you for the kind words!
Sick...
🙏🏽
Came out looking sweet, man. I F**KING HATED spraying tri-coats at first. I went to a vo tech school for autobody repair, but tri-coats weren't really a thing when I was in school so I pretty much had to learn by spraying them in the Bodyshop I worked at. Nowadays (after 25 years of spraying) I don't have problems with any tri-coats, but learning as you go sucked and it cost me a good amount of money in those learning experiences since I was flat rate. I have a 08 Cadillac DTS that I inherited last month that I'm getting ready to repaint due to the fact the whole passenger side is delaminating. I'm doing a black base with a ZBB Black to Blue hypershift pearl top coat from KP Pigments and I'm actually excited AF to spray it. I already dyed the roof black, tinted the windows, have a set of 22" wheels that I painted satin black and tinted the tail lights and headlights with a candy black/clear mix. I'm pretty sure the DTS is going to look sick AF murdered out with the black to blue hypershift. I'm actually thinking of spraying 2 or 3 lights coats of candy black over the ZBB just to give it some more depth and to darken the blue up a little bit. Not sure as of yet, though.
Wow man. First off, I relate to the entire gradual progression while on the line! Classes maybe taught me 10% of what you actually encounter while in the shop, if that. I’m just having fun now and enjoy when I encounter a challenge. As for ur Cadillac, I’d love to see how that project turns out. Sounds like you got it all mapped out! Please keep me posted on that!
@@JaySprayz I'd say 10% is about accurate. Lol. Idk about where you are, but I fortunately had a few veterans in the dealership I worked at that were more than willing to share their knowledge with me and help with anything I needed which I was extremely grateful for. If it wasn't for them I more than likely wouldn't have been able to hone my skills. As far as the Caddy goes, I honestly wouldn't do anything to it if it wasn't delaminating, but since it is, I'm going all out on it especially since it only has 40k miles on it and since I got the car for free. I maybe 47, but I still love to do my own thing and make my vehicles look unique. Once I saw that Blue to black hypershift pearl I knew I had to do it on that car. It more than likely won't be 100% finished until spring since I'm having a buddy do some motor and exhaust work on it as well. I know it's a Caddy, but I also want it to sound mean so we're doing cam swaps, doing some head work (port and polish and replacing the stock head bolts with ARP studs. He is also going to build me a full 3" stainless exhaust with resonator delete and Magnaflow Performance mufflers. Hoping to have it do around 400-450hp and sound like a Caddy on steroids. Lmfao. I'll keep you in mind and send you a link to a little video I'll do of it once it's all done and road worthy.
I can tell you definitely love and take pride in your skills. Keep up the good work brother.
Great job! @JaySprayz Is PPG Envirobase the OEM paint for this color?
So… to my understanding (after speaking to my paint rep.), most OEM factories use a variety of paint manufacturers based on color creation, cost, etc. Although, 80% of North American factories use primarily PPG, Axalta, and BASF. There are a handful of other paint manufacturers like Sherwin-Williams and AkzoNobel that also supply a high amount of the industry as well. So far in my career, I have enjoyed PPG the most for many reasons, but each carries its own pros and cons.
Thanks for the reply. I just had a repair job on my Finish Line Red and unfortunately there's an issue with metamerism. Match looks good in daylight but is mismatched under fluorescent lighting. My understanding is you need to use the same pigments or OEM to avoid metamerism
Добра работа
Thank you 🙏🏽
What kind of static gun would you get if money were no object?
I ask this way because we’re all in different situations and you might not even like that one😅. It’s such an expensive tool to buy and everyone is sponsored up towards an “opinion”.
Deep question! So anticipate spending ATLEAST 1k for anything decent and upwards of 2k for a “name brand” stat gun… I only have experience with Stat Gun and Ionstar and honestly, I’d go either way. I would’ve said Ionstar before the Stat Gun Pro just came out due to its new smaller size, and booth friendliness (due to the extreme temps). But… I went a decade without using one and I managed fine. At this point, I’ll take whatever tools I can to make my job and finished product that much faster and closer to a factory finish. Static electricity is a real thing though and DOES alter paint jobs so I’d for sure recommend one if it’s possible. Between us, we even charge insurance companies a small dollar amount to use the tool, it’s in everyone’s best interest!
@@JaySprayz Glad there’s another person who realizes they’re not just for plastic parts unlike these reps out here.
I do the tack and blow in one direction.
You’ll do well on here provided the algorithm lets you be seen.
Oh hell yeah… a fellow painter. I get nerdy over this stuff so thank you for the follow and kind words. So far it’s been a fun and wild journey figuring all this online stuff. I’m getting old! ✌🏼
@@JaySprayz if it helps gunman once said including key words in the video title helped the algorithms show people his content.
hey jay excellent work can you do some prep work before paint what grit sand paper to use when to use it when to use interface pads what distance to paint the different stages thank you
I will be doing MUCH more commentary, more detailed videos, and more explanation throughout! Stay tuned my friend!!
ruclips.net/video/5CBaYLgTAII/видео.htmlsi=nP7nQOfrU3i52yvW