Very educational im a retired bodyman 47 years in the buisness im learning new things from travis and enlightenment that's helped me be even better ty travis
Great content! I have been doing production body work since the early 70`s and the industry has changed so much in that time. One of the things we used to use was enamel primer when doing overall refinishing, it took a little longer to dry but adhesion to bare metal was optimal. Enamel loves clean dry bare metal. When epoxy primers came out, one of the prime benefits that sold us was when it was fully cured, we could put polyester over it and it increased the flexibility of the filler by about 30%. We actually built test panels to prove this. So if the panel was damaged after our repair, the chance of catastrophic filler failure was greatly decreased. Also, when using filler on the 18 gauge mild steel of restoration and vintage autos, consideration of the expansion and contraction of the metal in some climates where it is 40 degrees at night and 100 degrees in the afternoon becomes a real issue especially when putting polyester directly on bare metal. This used to cause lacquer paint on 1960`s to 1980`s GM cars to fail after only a few years. Modern high alloy sheet metal is not as susceptible to these temp. swings. Thanks again for the comprehensive videos. Even us old goats learn some nuggets from your great content.
I so appreciate these tremendous videos. I am at the stage of stripping paint and going back to final finish so this is exactly what I need to see. I don't want to spend all the money and labor only to find out I should have done it differently.
This should be a must see video before anyone touches a car for restoration! This video will save you a lot of time, money and tears. Thanks for putting this out there!
I can not thank you enough for making these videos. I will never get to your level but you do give me the confidence to do what I can the best that I can.
I woke up early and decided to see what stuff Travis has been up to, my my my, you never cease to amaze me with your relentless quest perfection and knowledge. Anyone that needs good well explained knowledge without skipping anything needs to go to this channel. I also watched your pullmax video , before this one , Travis your growth is amazing
For the home DIYer here in Cali, it used to be so easy to strip a car with a chemical stripper. None of them work anymore like they did 25-30 years ago. My old 50 F1, I am doing it all by hand using a DA and Eastwoods Contour. Enjoy your videos and tips.
You are correct as the EPA removed the methylene chloride from aircraft stripper, it lost its bite. They can’t control the waist, so eliminate it. Try “Cooper’s Strip Club” paint remover. It’s $250 kit from New Zealand and they have an easy phone number and website. It’s a mom & pop operation as he removed varnish from wood furniture and found it worked great on vehicle paint. They have a number of videos on RUclips, so check them out. I have a 67 full sized PU and can only do one panel at a time. Once paint is off, I 80 grit, wax & grease, epoxy, move on. Hope this helps as I can’t afford a sandblast ticket, a dip, or much on retirement. This is my truck until I am not here.
You have the absolute best channel on RUclips ! Can’t tell you enough how much every small detail means to us when it comes to learning about paint and body work. Thanks for taking your time to teach this to those of us who just never had an opportunity to get into a shop . Forever subscriber here 🙋🏼♂️👍
I am yet to find someone who explains the process to the detail like you do! I've learned immensely from a bunch of your videos about the whole process of car restauration. I'm doing a project of my own, a 1996 Nissan Patrol and I'm tackling all the steps from welding, metalwork, rust removal and repaint. So far everything has been working spot on with your tips and tricks. Greetings from Croatia.🤘
The stripper I went to uses a hot lye bath to get the crud and paint off, the rust remover is a washing soda electrolysis both. Then it's power washed, with a cold water and an undisclosed food preservative mix, to prevent flash rusting. Which it totally did, had to leave the shell for months. No a blemish of rust. Stupid expensive, but 110% worth it to get ALL the rust off.
I know you said that you don't really trust the phosphated surface that comes from phosphoric acid treatment, but .... in the automotive production world, phosphating is normal before applying e-coat. On chassis components, for example, that require 1000 hours salt spray resistance that can only be achieved with phosphating first. That said, I'm loving your videos, learning SO MUCH!
Excellent and very helpful to me. I'm in the process of stripping and priming my fenders now. Have been using the PPG products that you mentioned. Many thanks!
I do custom paint on motorcycles, I have always done a metal treatment first, then sand with 80 grit. I use DP50LF. PPG epoxy. I go through and gidecoat block and work the low areas with a polyester filler and re'epoxy prime. Then prep for paint.
I was told in PPG class that if you put filler on a bare metal that it's not the filler that causes rust it's the hardner The chemicals in hardner is what causes the metal to start rusting that's why they want a epoxy down first-In the collision world it's done with a production mind but they still use a epoxy or etch primer on the bare metal after the filler process because that should out last the time of the car---BUT I'm no Chemist but if you spend a huge amount of money to restore your car you won't an epoxy on that bare metal because under a microscope within so many hours the metal will start flash rusting and crystal's start to form with rust.With that being said I have seen filler come off cars with rust behind it on the metal and the filler.
Another great video Travis, thank you. Being as old as that ‘56 Ford, all I can say is it looks a whole lot better than me and can guarantee it runs way better too…LOL. Keep up the good instructional videos 👍
Another excellent video! I am entering this stage very soon, will be stripping the entire car pretty soon. The two rear quarters have had the bottom rear halves to metal for 6 months for patching and metal work, I have Ospho so I'll use that. After I strip the whole car I think I will do what you mentioned and put down black DP90LV then the VP2050 and go on from there. Even though its more $ I think its worth it since this car will be mine for long term. Thanks!
If you are going to commit to all the work, then don't skimp on good products. You'll forget the cost of them after the project, but over time you'll see the little flaws that show up as a result of cost cutting, cutting corners.
Great channel and content! Been in the industry since 86. Have a high end build..66 chevelle 502 ram jet, 5 speed tremec. Black very slick. Finished in 08. Back in shop redoing seams, door skin on drivers door. Firewall seem! Blood bath from a money stand point! I don't run a warranty program. But never have seen a build of mine do this! Makes me question chemical dipping. Maybe they didn't do the full process. In the end...nothing worst than having to go back into a build. Long wand and 360 degree spray head after paint to coat knooks and crannies . Dipped, a spray gun does not coat in hard to reach areas. Wish they had a epoxy dip tank after the stripping process. Would still strip most of it back off, least the can't get to areas would have a coating that ran into all the seams etc. Also, to your viewer's be careful on direct to metal high build primers, no epoxy underneath. If the build never gets wet with water untill it's painted, you might get lucky. Big gamble. High build primers will absorb moisture like a sponge. Bare metal under that primer can possibly cause problems! Same for back in the early days, got it primed in lacquer primer...put it outside to sit and cure oUT for couple weeks. The dew, possible rain, even when you have sanded it, then I'm going to wash it to get it ready clean before prepping to paint. The sponge affect has gone on! Then the cost of material is astronomic. If you have a redo!! It's never the same as the virgin of when you first sprayed the first time! Good luck to all that does this! Very deep and detailed process. Why it cost so much to build these cars. Like your channel! Very knowledgeable man!
Great video, thanks. Warm filler on a cold panel won't cause dew. Dew is water vapor condensing on a cold surface that is below the air temp/humidity/pressure dew-point from the air. But im with your method - don't put a sponge against your bare metal, seal it up.
Stripped paint off my 89 Toronado, preparing for epoxy primer and paint. This is most helpful. The grit recommendations prior to priming is just all over the place. I chose middle ground, 120, so I'd be interested in your thoughts on that. I used the purple strip disc on my side grinder for removal, and it worked awesome.
Great vid. I'm just at the stage of looking for effective way to get rid of paint and rust from the cab of my truck and came across Your channel. Have You ever thought about removing paint by burning it in the oven(pyrolysis) and then rust removal dip?
Thank you Travis for the in-depth tutorial. Love watching your videos! I'm restoring a 1968 F-100 and although the body is very solid, that seam line that goes longways on the side of the bed is rust-pitted. Should I use the spot blaster as you suggested? Thank you again!
I am hammer and dollying a roof that was stepped on using dykem, and after about 2/3 weeks of hammer and dolly work (I took it slow) I can't feel any highs and lows with my hand but I can still see some with the dykem and a block, at what point is it good enough for primer and filler? I know it is subjective, but I think I have gotten it so the paper test doesn't let me get under it with a sheet of paper, but it sure would make me feel better if I wasn't picking up any highs and lows with the blocking..
As usual you do an exelent job of explaining processes ,I have one question I recently had my hood on my 64 impala dipped ,I cleaned it then scuffed it with 80 grit sprayed 2050 on it scuffed it again with 80 grit for body filler in the dented area's ,scuffed the body filler again with 150 and sprayed 2050 over the filler ,my problem is the filler spots show up like shadows under the epoxy ,can you give me a good reason ,to thin of primer ? Not enough coats ? Or I dident sand the filler flat enough ,I do use your pencil method. Any help would be appreciated thanks
It is soaking up the 2050 this is common not a big deal. You basically have to block everything up to 150 grit and then re-prime if needed. As long as you’re putting at least three coats it should block out pretty good and you should see those dryer areas go away
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question about bare metal sanding for primer. And can I sand past 80 grit with an orbital? If so what grit provides the best result. And in your opinion what grit start to finish is best for plastic and aluminum. Thank you
Great video! Thanks for making a video for step one. How do you prep the interior panels if you’re not blasting? When it gets really tight are you using scotchbrite? Do you use a rust converter (POR)?
thank you for another great video , have you ever used ospho ? it's a rust converter , comes pre diluted and does not need to be washed off neutralized, it turns rust black and be are metal white , need to sand prior to paint or primer. just curious what your thoughts are on it
I’ve read up on it in the past sounds similar to rust mort. I use rust mort at times just read the TDS sheet for it and see if there’s any special instructions on it. 👌🏻
First paint job what you think about using PPG mp171 epoxy primer Bondo and ppgmp282 polyester 2 k primer also what product you use to wipe the Bondo dust I don't think I should use wax grease remover over Bondo
I don’t have any experience with those products nor do we use polyester but my way is not the only way give it a shot and see how you like it. You just need to blow off the filler thoroughly. I personally would not wipe it down with anything.
So I’m doing a chevelle 1972 owner decided to get after market parts like quarter panels , fenders to my understanding I should strip that black coat and put some epoxy primers. ? If I’m wrong what would be the steps to do it
Great video! Have a question on removing rust. I’m working on a 66 nova that I have replaced most all sheet metal. I have a few 1 minute Short videos on my channel. I have a original trunk that’s in great shape but it has a lot of surface rust inside between structure and outer sheet metal. What’s your suggestion to remove rust? Thanks
Great video on prep. I'm one of those who epoxy primes the metal, then does everything over the top of my epoxy primer. I have a question, how do you address rust prevention at panels that are spot welded together? I've tried well through primers, epoxy primer then scratched where the weld will be and I still occasionally get small spot of rust starting between two panel surfaces. Any recommendations on how to prevent issues in those areas? Thanks. Mike
Like 90 has a kit they sell that has a long wand and it can be sprayed down in those hard to get areas. It’s actually designed to wick into the weld seams. You’d want to to acid dip the part or car first tho
Great episode. Information was direct and to the point with expectations on what a guy may find from the process. I’m local North County SD. Is the Bonderite product range you use for chemical processing available locally?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for responding I use it because it keeps the metal from rusting for extended periods because I don’t get to work on my 74 Chevy 2 every night after work and I don’t won’t epoxy prime yet do to more metal work to be done.
we dont have very many places here to acid dip . the insurance is absolutley over the cost of reason because most places have caught on fire and dont bother reopening.. same goes with rechroming.even radiator shops wont clean a a gas tank. so manual stripping is the way to go. sandblasting is to expensive
The TDS sheet says that SPI epoxy stays open for 7 days. Like Travis says, that's your chemical adhesive but maroon scotch-brite is your mechanical adhesive. Regardless, print and follow the TDS as unless you have your vehicle in a level 3 clean room, SPI epoxy will be covered by dust, dust, dander from neighbors pets and you! The adult male sheds 100,000 dead skin cells per hour. That's why "Blood-Hounds" work so well in tracking. Best of Luck!
I would like to know how you finish the edges of doors hoods etc after you block it out. The filler connecting the panels are straight but seams have a rounded edge. How do I recreate that? Tia
Do you know if the Bondrite is the same process/type of product as the Eastwood Fast Etch? Bondrite is a remover? - not a converter? The reason why I ask is that SPI products do NOT want you to use a rust converter and don't recommend using lacquer thinner on the metal as they claim they will cause future bubbling. Thanks for detailed instructions.
Sylvester’s… emergency help. My 74 Datsun 260z I got from my dad has a good amount of surface rust on the roof. I won’t be able to spend much time on the car for a minute but want to preserve it from further rusting. What should I do for it?
I gotta Frbeightliner truck. How would you sand off the paint around hundreds of huck rivets. Thanks. The panels are alloy. It was sand blasted years ago and the blaster did a shit job and couldn't remove all the paint and now the surface is uneven so I need to remove the paint especially around the rivets which is going to take forever.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks. I've used stripper before and it looks like there's several layers of paint to remove. I guess no easy fix. Thanks I'll look for some aircraft stripper.
Bit confused, you said not to use any oils including wax and grease remover on the area that already has a tooth like sandblasted area, but then wax and grease remover was used on the 80 grit DA area. Is using it on the DA area fine and doesn't get stuck down in the grooves?
Epoxy every time for me 100%. Otherwise, just a tiny stone chip will expose the primer/bog/metal.. then rust will come, good shops take the time and Epoxy as soon as you can, awesome information Silvesters Customs 🍻
I understand the fact that sandblasting changes the metal but somebody should do a test. Perform a high resolution 3D scan of a part, say a fender. Then sandblasting it and do another scan to see EXACTLY if the fender warped and how much. Please someone do this. Inquiring minds want to know and SEE what the results are
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
You guys are hitting home runs with these videos, these will stand as historical references for generations!
One can only hope! Thank you
Very educational im a retired bodyman 47 years in the buisness im learning new things from travis and enlightenment that's helped me be even better ty travis
Thank you 🙌🏻
Great content! I have been doing production body work since the early 70`s and the industry has changed so much in that time. One of the things we used to use was enamel primer when doing overall refinishing, it took a little longer to dry but adhesion to bare metal was optimal. Enamel loves clean dry bare metal.
When epoxy primers came out, one of the prime benefits that sold us was when it was fully cured, we could put polyester over it and it increased the flexibility of the filler by about 30%. We actually built test panels to prove this. So if the panel was damaged after our repair, the chance of catastrophic filler failure was greatly decreased.
Also, when using filler on the 18 gauge mild steel of restoration and vintage autos, consideration of the expansion and contraction of the metal in some climates where it is 40 degrees at night and 100 degrees in the afternoon becomes a real issue especially when putting polyester directly on bare metal. This used to cause lacquer paint on 1960`s to 1980`s GM cars to fail after only a few years. Modern high alloy sheet metal is not as susceptible to these temp. swings.
Thanks again for the comprehensive videos. Even us old goats learn some nuggets from your great content.
Right on! Thank you!
I so appreciate these tremendous videos. I am at the stage of stripping paint and going back to final finish so this is exactly what I need to see. I don't want to spend all the money and labor only to find out I should have done it differently.
Right on thx for watching
This should be a must see video before anyone touches a car for restoration! This video will save you a lot of time, money and tears. Thanks for putting this out there!
Thank you!!
I can not thank you enough for making these videos. I will never get to your level but you do give me the confidence to do what I can the best that I can.
You can do it! Thank you
I woke up early and decided to see what stuff Travis has been up to, my my my, you never cease to amaze me with your relentless quest perfection and knowledge.
Anyone that needs good well explained knowledge without skipping anything needs to go to this channel. I also watched your pullmax video , before this one , Travis your growth is amazing
Thank you!!!
For the home DIYer here in Cali, it used to be so easy to strip a car with a chemical stripper. None of them work anymore like they did 25-30 years ago. My old 50 F1, I am doing it all by hand using a DA and Eastwoods Contour. Enjoy your videos and tips.
👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You are correct as the EPA removed the methylene chloride from aircraft stripper, it lost its bite. They can’t control the waist, so eliminate it. Try “Cooper’s Strip Club” paint remover. It’s $250 kit from New Zealand and they have an easy phone number and website. It’s a mom & pop operation as he removed varnish from wood furniture and found it worked great on vehicle paint. They have a number of videos on RUclips, so check them out. I have a 67 full sized PU and can only do one panel at a time. Once paint is off, I 80 grit, wax & grease, epoxy, move on. Hope this helps as I can’t afford a sandblast ticket, a dip, or much on retirement. This is my truck until I am not here.
You have the absolute best channel on RUclips ! Can’t tell you enough how much every small detail means to us when it comes to learning about paint and body work. Thanks for taking your time to teach this to those of us who just never had an opportunity to get into a shop . Forever subscriber here 🙋🏼♂️👍
Wow, thank you! 👍🏻👌🏻❤️
Absolutely the most educational video that I have ever seen. Ever.
Thank you
Thank you for the in-depth tutorial.
@@twoninecav you are welcome!!
I am yet to find someone who explains the process to the detail like you do! I've learned immensely from a bunch of your videos about the whole process of car restauration. I'm doing a project of my own, a 1996 Nissan Patrol and I'm tackling all the steps from welding, metalwork, rust removal and repaint. So far everything has been working spot on with your tips and tricks.
Greetings from Croatia.🤘
Awesome, thank you! Very glad to hear that!!
Another excellent lesson not BS straight to the good stuff! Thank you!
You are welcome!
The stripper I went to uses a hot lye bath to get the crud and paint off, the rust remover is a washing soda electrolysis both. Then it's power washed, with a cold water and an undisclosed food preservative mix, to prevent flash rusting. Which it totally did, had to leave the shell for months. No a blemish of rust. Stupid expensive, but 110% worth it to get ALL the rust off.
I agree
I appreciate how thorough you explain the steps No-nonsense
Thank you
I know you said that you don't really trust the phosphated surface that comes from phosphoric acid treatment, but .... in the automotive production world, phosphating is normal before applying e-coat. On chassis components, for example, that require 1000 hours salt spray resistance that can only be achieved with phosphating first.
That said, I'm loving your videos, learning SO MUCH!
@@gregreed2713 thank you! it’s not that I don’t like phosphoric coating I like having both 80 grit and a chemical bond to get the best of both worlds.
best video I ve ever watched. Thank you Sylvester
Glad you enjoyed it
You do a really great job with these videos. Excellent information, clearly demonstrated, well articulated. Super helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent and very helpful to me. I'm in the process of stripping and priming my fenders now. Have been using the PPG products that you mentioned. Many thanks!
Your welcome
I do custom paint on motorcycles, I have always done a metal treatment first, then sand with 80 grit. I use DP50LF. PPG epoxy. I go through and gidecoat block and work the low areas with a polyester filler and re'epoxy prime. Then prep for paint.
If you do the metal treatment first you are removing it with 80 grit. I’d recommend do the 80 grit first then the treatment. 👌🏻
Great explanation of the proper process!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I was told in PPG class that if you put filler on a bare metal that it's not the filler that causes rust it's the hardner The chemicals in hardner is what causes the metal to start rusting that's why they want a epoxy down first-In the collision world it's done with a production mind but they still use a epoxy or etch primer on the bare metal after the filler process because that should out last the time of the car---BUT I'm no Chemist but if you spend a huge amount of money to restore your car you won't an epoxy on that bare metal because under a microscope within so many hours the metal will start flash rusting and crystal's start to form with rust.With that being said I have seen filler come off cars with rust behind it on the metal and the filler.
You are correct it’s the benzene peroxide in the hardener is what I’ve heard.
We can send oil samples out for analysis, what about a metal sample of the same gauge and process? Good point.
PPG is what I went to school in 1995 for 3 days in Columbus Ohio!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another great video Travis, thank you. Being as old as that ‘56 Ford, all I can say is it looks a whole lot better than me and can guarantee it runs way better too…LOL. Keep up the good instructional videos 👍
Haha thank you!!
Another excellent video! I am entering this stage very soon, will be stripping the entire car pretty soon. The two rear quarters have had the bottom rear halves to metal for 6 months for patching and metal work, I have Ospho so I'll use that. After I strip the whole car I think I will do what you mentioned and put down black DP90LV then the VP2050 and go on from there. Even though its more $ I think its worth it since this car will be mine for long term. Thanks!
I agree!! Good luck!!
If you are going to commit to all the work, then don't skimp on good products. You'll forget the cost of them after the project, but over time you'll see the little flaws that show up as a result of cost cutting, cutting corners.
Wish I watched this a day ago b4 warping my trunk lid
Great channel and content! Been in the industry since 86. Have a high end build..66 chevelle 502 ram jet, 5 speed tremec. Black very slick. Finished in 08. Back in shop redoing seams, door skin on drivers door. Firewall seem! Blood bath from a money stand point! I don't run a warranty program. But never have seen a build of mine do this! Makes me question chemical dipping. Maybe they didn't do the full process. In the end...nothing worst than having to go back into a build. Long wand and 360 degree spray head after paint to coat knooks and crannies . Dipped, a spray gun does not coat in hard to reach areas. Wish they had a epoxy dip tank after the stripping process. Would still strip most of it back off, least the can't get to areas would have a coating that ran into all the seams etc. Also, to your viewer's be careful on direct to metal high build primers, no epoxy underneath. If the build never gets wet with water untill it's painted, you might get lucky. Big gamble. High build primers will absorb moisture like a sponge. Bare metal under that primer can possibly cause problems! Same for back in the early days, got it primed in lacquer primer...put it outside to sit and cure oUT for couple weeks. The dew, possible rain, even when you have sanded it, then I'm going to wash it to get it ready clean before prepping to paint. The sponge affect has gone on! Then the cost of material is astronomic. If you have a redo!! It's never the same as the virgin of when you first sprayed the first time! Good luck to all that does this! Very deep and detailed process. Why it cost so much to build these cars. Like your channel! Very knowledgeable man!
Sorry, hadn't finished the video before I commented! Excellent knowledge! It's great to see a mind that goes so deep! That's knowledge
Thank you very much!
Great video, thanks. Warm filler on a cold panel won't cause dew. Dew is water vapor condensing on a cold surface that is below the air temp/humidity/pressure dew-point from the air. But im with your method - don't put a sponge against your bare metal, seal it up.
Whatever you wanna call it. Warm filler on a cold panel will cause rust. I’ve seen it 👍🏻
Lots of great info...thank you!!
Thank you
Stripped paint off my 89 Toronado, preparing for epoxy primer and paint. This is most helpful. The grit recommendations prior to priming is just all over the place. I chose middle ground, 120, so I'd be interested in your thoughts on that. I used the purple strip disc on my side grinder for removal, and it worked awesome.
That will be just fine 👍🏻
Awesome Video Travis.
Glad you enjoyed it thanks
Great info thanks!
Hey what’s your take on the new lazer cleaning machines for stripping to bear sheet metal ?
No clue I’ve really been wanting to try one tho. Maybe I’ll make it a point at sema to look at them
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ya Im curious to see how well they work and how much heat they put in the panel.
@@Bobschoppshop same here. If it doesn’t warp I’ll be buying one 🤣
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ha yup me too 👌🍻
Love this channel!!!
Glad you enjoy it!
All I can say very good teacher
Thank you!!
Great vid. I'm just at the stage of looking for effective way to get rid of paint and rust from the cab of my truck and came across Your channel. Have You ever thought about removing paint by burning it in the oven(pyrolysis) and then rust removal dip?
No the heat can warp panels. I’ll only use the heat on a torch in a door jamb corner or hard to get area
Excellent!
Thank you Travis for the in-depth tutorial. Love watching your videos! I'm restoring a 1968 F-100 and although the body is very solid, that seam line that goes longways on the side of the bed is rust-pitted. Should I use the spot blaster as you suggested? Thank you again!
Yeah spot blast is ideal 👍🏻
Thank you!
I am hammer and dollying a roof that was stepped on using dykem, and after about 2/3 weeks of hammer and dolly work (I took it slow) I can't feel any highs and lows with my hand but I can still see some with the dykem and a block, at what point is it good enough for primer and filler? I know it is subjective, but I think I have gotten it so the paper test doesn't let me get under it with a sheet of paper, but it sure would make me feel better if I wasn't picking up any highs and lows with the blocking..
Sounds like you’ve got it really good. If you are to that point and struggling I suggest Ken Sakamoto class or come to our class.
As usual you do an exelent job of explaining processes ,I have one question I recently had my hood on my 64 impala dipped ,I cleaned it then scuffed it with 80 grit sprayed 2050 on it scuffed it again with 80 grit for body filler in the dented area's ,scuffed the body filler again with 150 and sprayed 2050 over the filler ,my problem is the filler spots show up like shadows under the epoxy ,can you give me a good reason ,to thin of primer ? Not enough coats ? Or I dident sand the filler flat enough ,I do use your pencil method. Any help would be appreciated thanks
It is soaking up the 2050 this is common not a big deal. You basically have to block everything up to 150 grit and then re-prime if needed. As long as you’re putting at least three coats it should block out pretty good and you should see those dryer areas go away
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question about bare metal sanding for primer. And can I sand past 80 grit with an orbital? If so what grit provides the best result. And in your opinion what grit start to finish is best for plastic and aluminum. Thank you
In this video we tell you 80 grit is best. Plastic is the only substrate I don’t use 80 more like 220
Great video! Thanks for making a video for step one.
How do you prep the interior panels if you’re not blasting? When it gets really tight are you using scotchbrite? Do you use a rust converter (POR)?
It varies on condition of car, budget etc. there’s no one size fits all answer. Rust mort works good tho. I’m not a fan of POR
Thanks for a super video and very imformative 1 question etch primer on bare metal?????????
This video will explain it for you. 👍
Understanding Primers: Epoxy, Polyesters, and Urethanes explained.
ruclips.net/video/EBj_wz-2HW0/видео.html
My truck!! I want it!
Well explained video, my question is when using the acid does the entire panel need to be bare metal before using it?
Yes
thank you for another great video , have you ever used ospho ? it's a rust converter , comes pre diluted and does not need to be washed off neutralized, it turns rust black and be are metal white , need to sand prior to paint or primer. just curious what your thoughts are on it
I’ve read up on it in the past sounds similar to rust mort. I use rust mort at times just read the TDS sheet for it and see if there’s any special instructions on it. 👌🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for the reply , will do
First paint job what you think about using PPG mp171 epoxy primer Bondo and ppgmp282 polyester 2 k primer also what product you use to wipe the Bondo dust I don't think I should use wax grease remover over Bondo
I don’t have any experience with those products nor do we use polyester but my way is not the only way give it a shot and see how you like it. You just need to blow off the filler thoroughly. I personally would not wipe it down with anything.
What brand do you recommend for the epoxy primer , sealers and clear coat . Thank you
We have several videos covering what we use and why
So I’m doing a chevelle 1972 owner decided to get after market parts like quarter panels , fenders to my understanding I should strip that black coat and put some epoxy primers. ? If I’m wrong what would be the steps to do it
That’s correct. Use 80 grit on DA
Great video! Have a question on removing rust. I’m working on a 66 nova that I have replaced most all sheet metal. I have a few 1 minute Short videos on my channel. I have a original trunk that’s in great shape but it has a lot of surface rust inside between structure and outer sheet metal. What’s your suggestion to remove rust? Thanks
Acid dipping as mentioned in video
Great video on prep. I'm one of those who epoxy primes the metal, then does everything over the top of my epoxy primer.
I have a question, how do you address rust prevention at panels that are spot welded together? I've tried well through primers, epoxy primer then scratched where the weld will be and I still occasionally get small spot of rust starting between two panel surfaces.
Any recommendations on how to prevent issues in those areas?
Thanks.
Mike
Like 90 has a kit they sell that has a long wand and it can be sprayed down in those hard to get areas. It’s actually designed to wick into the weld seams. You’d want to to acid dip the part or car first tho
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for the response.
Great episode. Information was direct and to the point with expectations on what a guy may find from the process.
I’m local North County SD. Is the Bonderite product range you use for chemical processing available locally?
Yes we bought ours at meza paint in Temecula or Escondido.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS many thanks. Planned on hitting them up for DP and VP2050. 👍🏼
Can you use OSPHO over the bare metal to protect it before Epoxy primer if you are going to have an extended bare Metal stage
I haven’t used it. Not sure sorry
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for responding I use it because it keeps the metal from rusting for extended periods because I don’t get to work on my 74 Chevy 2 every night after work and I don’t won’t epoxy prime yet do to more metal work to be done.
Can I use a product like eastwwods fast etch for small rust pitts, DA over it and clean without problems?
Never used it. Test it 👍🏻typically anything that is cheap or fast isn’t good but that’s my opinion
we dont have very many places here to acid dip . the insurance is absolutley over the cost of reason because most places have caught on fire and dont bother reopening.. same goes with rechroming.even radiator shops wont clean a a gas tank. so manual stripping is the way to go. sandblasting is to expensive
Do you scuff the epoxy before applying filler over it? If yes, what grit?
Yes we have several videos on this 80-150
Do you know what the Nutralizer is that metal works used after acid dipping? We have a place neer by. But id like to ask what they use.
I am unsure, but if you call Metal Works in Eugene Oregon, I’m sure they will tell you
Great video. I'm guessing a wire wheel, Either large or small is going to Polish the metal?
Correct
Great vid! We use SPI epoxy ..how long can the epoxy sit before we need to sand it to recoat?
Epoxy can sit however long you just gotta scuff it good before putting filler down. Read the TDS for the epoxy you use
The TDS sheet says that SPI epoxy stays open for 7 days. Like Travis says, that's your chemical adhesive but maroon scotch-brite is your mechanical adhesive. Regardless, print and follow the TDS as unless you have your vehicle in a level 3 clean room, SPI epoxy will be covered by dust, dust, dander from neighbors pets and you! The adult male sheds 100,000 dead skin cells per hour. That's why "Blood-Hounds" work so well in tracking. Best of Luck!
Can you use 20% refused epoxy primer for sealer
You need to read the TDS sheet per your product
What you think about using ospho rather than bonderite
I started looking into it long ago and I think it’s very similar. Just read the tds for that product and use it as they recommend
I would like to know how you finish the edges of doors hoods etc after you block it out.
The filler connecting the panels are straight but seams have a rounded edge.
How do I recreate that? Tia
You just sand it round with a block
Do you know if the Bondrite is the same process/type of product as the Eastwood Fast Etch? Bondrite is a remover? - not a converter?
The reason why I ask is that SPI products do NOT want you to use a rust converter and don't recommend using lacquer thinner on the metal as they claim they will cause future bubbling.
Thanks for detailed instructions.
I’m unsure
What about evaporust after stripping
Honest answer never used it.
Sylvester’s… emergency help. My 74 Datsun 260z I got from my dad has a good amount of surface rust on the roof. I won’t be able to spend much time on the car for a minute but want to preserve it from further rusting. What should I do for it?
Rust mort will neutralize it. Let sit 24 hrs the DA with 80 grit good and epoxy it till you can prep it better later
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you!
Do You know what acid the "conditioner" is? Widely used in shipyards and metal fabrication, World wide.
I’m unsure sorry
I gotta Frbeightliner truck. How would you sand off the paint around hundreds of huck rivets. Thanks. The panels are alloy. It was sand blasted years ago and the blaster did a shit job and couldn't remove all the paint and now the surface is uneven so I need to remove the paint especially around the rivets which is going to take forever.
Aircraft stripper is how I’d go about it
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks. I've used stripper before and it looks like there's several layers of paint to remove. I guess no easy fix. Thanks I'll look for some aircraft stripper.
Bit confused, you said not to use any oils including wax and grease remover on the area that already has a tooth like sandblasted area, but then wax and grease remover was used on the 80 grit DA area. Is using it on the DA area fine and doesn't get stuck down in the grooves?
Correct. Blasting is not smooth it has deeper pores. A DA surface of 80 grit is easily cleanable.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks for the reply! Awesome vid with great info.
@@tfoot22 thanks for watching
Great video! 34:18
Vote time! Touchy subject though..
Like = bog to epoxy
Comment = bog to bare metal
(For me it's to epoxy every time)
Epoxy every time for me 100%.
Otherwise, just a tiny stone chip will expose the primer/bog/metal.. then rust will come, good shops take the time and Epoxy as soon as you can, awesome information Silvesters Customs 🍻
Thank you
What advice would you give if someone had applied WD40.
Wipe it down really good with acetone or lacquer thinner
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thank you for your advice, PS I'm learning heaps from your channel keep up the good work.
I understand the fact that sandblasting changes the metal but somebody should do a test. Perform a high resolution 3D scan of a part, say a fender. Then sandblasting it and do another scan to see EXACTLY if the fender warped and how much.
Please someone do this. Inquiring minds want to know and SEE what the results are
We already have a video on this. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Nice! Thank I’ll look for it 🙌🏻
@@yobringitondown5565 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻