I have had that same problem with rustoleum. My buddy that actually built his RUclips channel(Moore motorsports) painting cars with rustoleum lays it out wet from the first coat, but has developed the skill to know how wet before getting runs. His stuff blows my mind
I would like to see how to get paint AND clear smooth Under the front edge of hood scoops. Example 70-75 Pontiac Formula hoods. Thanks again Kevin ! ( Turn it up Loud!)
@@JTL93Mopar my buddies channel (Moore motorsports) he has done a ton of full spray can rustoleum paint jobs and even cleared over it. One car he even added a ghost Pearl to the clear. Also another couple channels gt's performance and whitley autoworks does a lot of experiments with various pearls over rustoleum in clear.
Agreed. Absolutely love this video. Great to see someone with so much experience learning and passing on some of that experience. Recognizing what is going wrong is something that just comes with that experience. Really appreciated how he was able to point out the warning signs of the paint job going wrong and what to do about it.
45 years of rattle can painting, taught by master furniture repairman at one of the biggest furniture stores in Oklahoma. I would never let spray paint sit for more than 20 minutes between coats...tops. Really good video about the spray patterns and applying technics. As far as your conclusions, I doubt many people watching this video are already using a spray gun. The other thing that comes to mind is why you did not mention 2k clear for longer life. I customize 4 wheelers and side by sides and use the 2k on brightly painted suspension parts and have good luck on longevity. I mainly added this comment for people watching this, so they know 2k is an option for increased durability, not to bust your balls....I subscribed...:)
I've never really worked hard on getting a good exterior paintjob with rattles... I wish your guy ( or you!) was (were) around to ask questions, he seems like he was a wealth of knowledge. With catalyzed automotive, you can extend flashtimes, and it was so interesting to me that solvent and the paint layers are even more sensitive WITHOUT a catalyst... Regardless, it was a fun experiment! I learned alot from it... and I believe when we learn we grow. Sorry if that sounds corny, just how I think. Thanks for watching! I hope you've subscribed. :)
I just commented pretty much the same. I rattle, air brush, then 2K and it saves the customer so much $ . I give them the choice of course, rattle can or HVLP sprayer. I only do motorcycles though. Quicker and easier 😉
Good followup from another prospective of painting + staining furniture. Probably much more tedious since dealing with different types of wood and metal.
Obviously, haha. I've painted with cans since I was about 13 yrs old... and I'm 66 now. There is an art to painting with rattle cans. Patients is key, and knowing the different brands and their chemical contents. Always test first... Always.
My problem is it always looks good in some places, and too light in others. Then trying to fill in the light spots without overdoing the others. Especially with harsh contours.
I used this paint to paint my bike. It says on the can to recoat "within 1 hour or after 48 hours." My experience is if you wait more than 30 minutes, it will wrinkle every time, because the new paint dries quicker than the previous coat. You do several coats waiting no more than 15 minutes, then leave it for 48 hours to wet sand. After sanding you must wait another 48 hours to recoat or clear. If you don't want to sand, you can clear within that 30-minute window or you have to wait 48 hours. I've tried everything with regular Rustoleum and 2X rustoleum, these rules are absolute.
You are correct. Within 30 minutes, or after 2 days! I use rattle cans on a number of things, and I want to rush things, thinking it's dry enough. NOPE!! 😂
Rustoleum is more prone to wrinkling than any of the other brands out there in my experience. For that reason I will not use Rustoleum paint on a project.
15 years ago i did a rattle can paint job on one of the largest cars made. My 1960 Lincoln. Used Loew's cheapest paint. 35 cans primer and 50 cans color coat. Lots and lots of wet sanding and rubbing and polishing compound. Still looks great today. Ive had people think im pulling thier leg at car shows when i tell them its a rattle can paint job!😂
@@911axe at only $2,49 a can and the primer free,it was far far cheaper than any pro paint shop. I called it my poormans paint job. It was very labour intensive though. I wouldent do it again. For one thing,i have to keep it out of the weather and heavily waxed as there is no clearcoat to protect that enamel paint.
@@geralderdek282 Get a gallon of Lacquer paint was cheap back then $20 at any auto body paint supply store I painted a 61 F-250 on side yard of a friends house. Used old school high pressure spray gun where the tank is under the gun. We spent about $100 took us one day mostly prep sanding. Nice thing about Lacquer lot less fumes don't piss off the neighborhood spraying today's epoxy, or urethane.
@@Mike-01234 yes, and my wife still recalls the fumes from those spray cans and i remember my sore finger from holding the button nozzle down! Ive since learned modern base coat clear coat spraying since then.
In 1978 I painted my 71 VW bug in Germany outside my army barracks one summer. After I buffed it out with rubbing compound to remove the overspray and orange peel it looked fabulous.
That is the first thing I thought and literally said out loud while watching, I thought "OH CRAP, he's going to crackle" Then before you go to paint correction wait for it to cure. That is 48 hours at the minimum. I wait 72 on anything I am doing.
YES, full dry (not cure) and prep sand OR apply mult coats about 10 minutes between. i think Kevin got coat happy. Rustoluem works fine with 2 to 4 coats.
Yes, I also admitted that I exceeded the instructions and made up my own rules.... I actually really like the product, Great engineering on the tip/cap! Not trying to disparage Rust-Oleum at all. Sorry if it came off that way. :) ( in my defense.... I'm old and I literally had to get a magnifying glass to read the instructions... hard to read! LOL!)
When I rode a motorcycle I put a full fairing on it (Windjammer II). Your choice of fairing colors was either white or black. My motorcycle was a metallic green. I had added a different gas tank for an extra gallon. In the 20 years I owned it I repainted the bike and fairing twice. Both times with rattle cans. As with painting a car with a spray gun, I was careful to dismantle everything, clean tape and sand. I wanted the bike to be two toned, with 1/8" pinstripes separating the two colors, and the color division line following the lines of the fairing into the tank and side covers. Each color was painted separately, with multiple coats (sanded in between each). When done it looked like a professional job and I received a lot of compliments on it. The secret was time, patience and keeping everything clean.
Another thing that helps with rattle cans - I set mine in a bowl of warm/almost hot water for a few minutes and between coats. The paint seems to flow better and less chances of sputtering when it's warm. Enjoyed the video!
You're correct sir, warming the paint cans in warm water better atomizes the spray. Especially relevant in cooler air temps. After paint hardens, you must wet sand with 500 and 1000 to smooth out dust and orange peel surfaces. Final: Top coat ALL auto/motorcycle paint coats with a 2K clear to preserve all the hard work from any environmental fallout.
And, if you do it often, look into "graffiti caps". A "calligraphy" or "transversal" spray cap will give you that great consistent spray pattern. They are cheap to pick up and do a great job to give you a good spray pattern instead of the messy cone shape that seems so standard.
Fantastic video Kevin! I appreciate the fact that you included the kamikaze bug and the paint wrinkling up. Being a good painter is all about being able to fix mistakes and problems whenever they happen. Please keep the videos coming. God bless you.
I think the long flash time mistake made this even more educational than anticipated with correction information. Great all encompassing video covering spray can capabilities, expectation and things to watch out for, not to mention prep.
I had a LOT of fun using a colour and a clear coat...in cans...to "restore" the failed paint on my Civic's roof, bootlid, and bonnet. Leaving the sides alone, I blended it all together as best I could. It worked: it shined, and it was better than leaving the dead paint and bare metal. I enjoyed my results for 7 more years until...I blew the car's motor. Oh, well...what the heck? I had...FUN. Your video here brings back a lot of good memories. Cheers!
This was a great video, I appreciate you taking the time I'm a newbie and a RUclips do-it-yourselfer trying to repaint the back corner panel of my F-150. I've watched a few videos. This one's the best by far. Cheers!🍻
Hey Chris!!! So to me you're the OG and someone that is the foundation of all the crazy stuff I've been able to to for years! Thank you sir! I owe my career to folks that believed in me. YOU are the best!
I bought a used silver camper shell for my black truck for a steal of a price. Obviously, I didn't care for the silver back gorilla look. I made a paint booth out of my popup beach tent, some clear plastic drop cloth, a box fan on one side pulling air out and a furnace filter over an opening allowing air in on opposite side. Black cheap rattle can paint (took about 8 cans to cover). I then spend a bit more on clear rattle can paint with the catalyst popper on bottom bought online. I think it took 3 cans to coat. The job turned out professional looking with a very slight amount of orange peal that really isn't that noticeable. Still holding up well today after about 5 years.
I'm happy to see that Kevin is a true at heart believer in a quality job done right by utilizing the importance of preparing prior to the painting process. I been around people that are more obsessed with fast half ass rushed jobs. They can't see or appreciate a quality done job until they see the difference between the two. Some even make remarks and say or ask why do I spend so much time on preparing. Well I always say if I'm going to a job. It's going to be done right or I just won't do it at all. That's it nothing else to say.
By far the most amusing, most informational paint videos out there. Thanks Kevin. I’m sure you’re heard it a million times already, but it’s good to see you on camera again making content.
for people who do not paint for work/living/regularly, this video is awesome because 1) a bug in what you're painting and 2) a chemical reaction is totally things that happen in real life and Im glad kevin left this in the video. Seeing how much sanding and prep goes into painting something isnt something that non paint people understand either. pretty cool!!
You are a really great instructor /presenter.. Some of my fondest tv memories, was watching you on trucks in my younger days. That was the only television I watched back then, and looked forward to Saturday morning just for that..
Well, get used to this being a regular thing... I'm having alot of fun producing this content, whatever happens from here, who knows but it's great to be able to have the freedom to make mistakes, and tell my truth. thanks for watching all those years, I hope to keep you engaged here as well! KT
A friend of mine had the same wrinkling issue. He just let it cure and told everyone that that was the neat effect that he was looking for. When he said that, everyone thought it was so cool. A few guys even asked his "secret" for being able to get a finish like that. He told them it was a trade secret and they would have to figure it out for themselves. He is now considered a painting "guru". Hey, if life gives you a lemon, make lemonade!
I am retired and one of my hobbies is conserving antique sewing machines, returning them to usable condition. Right now that consists mostly of cleaning, which I really enjoy. I will bookmark this video for when I am ready to tackle a paint job! I am still reluctant to paint because I have limited space and resources, so a "rattle can" is intriguing. Thank you.
Kevin, you certainly made a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Cool to see a professional demonstrate how a backyard DIY method can produce excellent results.
Thank you for showing this. You could have edited and made it seem so easy and the perfect result. Being real and genuine in this process is amazing. You added to your reputation, not degrad. True Master Bro!!
Knowing when to walk away is great advice. I paint a lot of projects with spray paint and it can be a pain but also a cheaper alternative and easy to find. Great video.
Such an honest video on the subject. I found you a few months ago after watching you and Dereck paint that truck on the show. I trust what you are teaching us and have seen only a few videos so far. Now I'm subscribing to yet another channel - yours - in my long arsenal of must watch. Painting is not for those without patience.
As an aged ex-sprayer of many vehicles, I strongly reccomend that those using rattle cans, ("Spraybombs", in Aus.), get one of those handles that the can fits in with a proper trigger mechanism . Using it feels just like bottom bucket spraygun in your hand. Does away with hand fatigue and paint squirting everywhere.! Available from most auto stores.?
Thanks Kevin!!! Love your videos! I love rustoleum, and the new spray nozzles are awesome. Nozzles 1-3 are heavier to lighter conical sprays....4 and 5 are the real sprayers. Note, it does state on the can recoat within 1 hour or AFTER 48 hours. Follow that. Like Kevin, I do 5 ish min between light coats, 10min between heavy. My last 1 or maybe 2 coats might be Rustoleum clear coat over the color, light, then wet it out. Here's the catch to it all: ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED WITHIN THE 1 HOUR RECOAT WINDOW - OR YOU MUST WAIT. That means for 6 layers all told no matter light or heavy, paint of clear, you have barely enough time to complete it in the hour. To do a whole car, its hood, one fender, one door at a time....doing the f-body unibody is hustle time, even without the deck lid. It is doable. I still seal with 2K epoxy. Do not bother with rustoleum primer. I'll also say, this paint in humid weather won't really dry for days, maybe weeks until it can be polished properly. Let it sit. I love this paint!
@paintucation hey Kevin. Great to see you on here. I used to watch you on trucks on Saturdays. I just sprayed a whole 1996 chevy long bed with this exact sunrise red rustoleum 3 weeks ago. Consider doing a follow up video with spray max 2k clear over this. It will continue with the extreme low budget idea and it will give the rustoleum a longer life vs the uv rays. Spray max 2k is rattle can as well.
Didn’t notice any comments on this but NOT ALL rattle cans are fuel resistant. Keep that in mind if painting a gas tank. Great tips in this video. I’ve been rattle canning for years and this for sure upped my game. Thanks 🤘🏻
It takes a lot of character to admit your failures to the world. Any other RUclipsr would have edited the messy bit out, little realizing that the ability to recover gracefully from mistakes is what makes someone a master. Thank you, sir, for letting us ride along as your worked through a potential disaster. You have earned my Like, my Subscribe, and my respect.
Turning the top of the can will find the arched paint feed tube so it is at the bottom corner of the can. Paint feed tubes are not straight, they are curved to the side/bottom of the can. Usually, there is a black dot on the inside top... Aim the tip toward the black dot. It will feed until can is empty.
@TheOnlySolipsist the small ring near the spray nozzle. Usually there is a black dot indicating where the bottom tip of the plastic siphon straw is located. It's been a while but some manufacturers don't do this anymore.
@@firebald2915 that is probably the best tip I’ve heard in years. I wish I had known about it way back when but it’s never too late. Thank you and I really mean that. It’s like when I finally learned that the gas gauge on a car actually indicated what side the gas cap is on. It seems so simple and obvious but once known it’s a whole different ball game.
When I first learned it, spraying up (black dot to the rear opposite of direction of spray) and down (dot facing forward or down) made it so much easier. Plus, the blue spray tip, the tip swivels and changes the fan pattern to horizontal or vertical. It's a small rectangle at the tip. The blue spray tip with the exposed wire just below the finger depresser.
Thank you for showing the reality of this and explaining how it doesn't stand up over time. 13 years ago I wish I would have seen this video it would have saved me so much time just buying a quality product.
I've learned from my cheap experiments that if you use a matte or flat Rust-Oleum you can come back over it with a 2k clear and have it last a tad longer with no delamination or weird chemical reaction. However, it's just not as good. I would save and buy better stuff and do it right. This was an awesome experiment I really enjoyed it.
Always cover other vehicles when spraying a rattle can in the shop. That white vehicle in the back might have some fine dots with the fan blowing in that direction.
Thank you for pointing out the real pitfalls. The lack of durability is reason enough for me, but when you heap in all of the extra time and stress it makes a nice 3 hour day in the booth seem like a holiday!
I cannot express how happy I am to see people either re-discovering Kevin or just now learning about him. He's one of the best out there when it comes to teaching and explaining things with paint. He's not afraid to poke fun at himself and show mistakes. And he'll EXPLAIN why things went wrong and how to fix. All the views on the channel here lately.....glad to see him getting his flowers again from the community.
Thank you for the emphasis on prepping. It really does make all the difference. I have done numerous MTB parts with rattle cans and they all turn out fine because I take the time to clean and sand. Great video with some very helpful information. Much appreciated!
Rustoleum is REALLY finicky about flash time between coats...15-25 minutes or so is it. If you want to put more material on after that time's elapsed, you're gonna need to let it fully cure first, or it'll wrinkle & lift as you discovered. Luckily, I found out shooting guitar bodies before I moved on to bigger projects.. I shot my '95 C1500 tu-tone Hunter Green & Almond with the stuff, and it looked great for a few years...now it's beginning to get a little chalky (from UV, I guess). I'm thinking of doing it again...just scuff & shoot the same spray bombs, and then putting a "real" clear coat on after full cure for UV protection. Does that sound like a realistic plan?
Back in the eighties, my partner and I did a lot of custom work, cars and bikes. I did most of the painting because Kevin would do a line or two between coats and forget his flash time. Bad news when you're spraying multiple, multiple coats of lacquer. Those were the days. Lol
As someone who decided to spray can my project car to just get it running thanks for all the info. I have a 20footer, but way better than the basket case that sat for 34 years.
I use the same stuff. It works great and seems to hold up quite well. Doesn't fade. I painted a Cbr 600 red 5 years ago with rattle cans and cleared with spraymax 2k clear. Red spray paint always fades fast, but with that 2k clear it has enough solids to protect it from sunlight. I don't think I'd paint a car that way, but small stuff is great.
hot rod or one of those car mags did exactly that like 20 years ago using white rustoleum. apparently it came out good but was a ton of work sanding and polishing after.
roller is less spray messy but if it doesn't come out smooth. you 'll have to sand it. it call comes down to the same. I've done it all and you wouldnt tell if i did it with a can or spray gun.
Ive rattle canned the engine compartment and all the jambs, including trunk of my 74 Charger using Oreilleys primer and sealer and a factory color and clear coat from another manufacturer 15 yrs ago. Still looks FANTASTIC!!🌟
I've found that Rust-oleum is the slowest drying and softest paint out there, I've painted tons of things with a rattle can, I prefer Dupli color or Krylon myself.
That's the problem with rattle cans, it's not capitalized and will remain soft for a long time. Can you get a a factory looking finish with a rattle can? Yes. Will it hold up like a factory finish? No...not unless you put 2K clear over it.
Interesting video, glad to see you battling the doubters! I rattle canned my truck about 12 years ago. Did all prep as if it was "real" ;) paint; sanded, washed, etch primer, the whole 9 yards(although as I recall I didn't sand finer than about 320, and it was dry sanded, and power sanded.. lazy, but careful) but primer and paint, and racing stripes over the top were all Rustoleum out of a can. This was long before those fancy nozzles too. Whole thing took about 3 days, over a long weekend. For Years people complimented that paint job, asked the paint, and where I got it done, or how I did it, what gun I used, whose booth etc... No one ever believes its rattle can. Even some semi pro car guys that paint their own projects thought its at least a single stage auto paint before the gloss started to fade. After about 6 or 7 years the gloss was going pretty fast, and its a matte paint, color a bit less vibrant now. I have the engine out now and doing body rust repair (things I ignored fixing 12 years ago)too in down time, I'll sand it all and re-spray it in the same Rustoleum this year. I thought about clear originally, but rattle can clear never comes out smooth for me, and a buddy spraying "real" clear over "real" paint was having a bitch of a time with that learning curve, I wasn't risking my shiny job then. This time I might try to clear one. That buddy is now doing really good yard/garage sprays with single stage paints, so I might get him to try a clear for me. Or not. Time will tell. Now I've moved on to using a direct to metal housing and outdoors paint, made by Behr, that is high solids and self leveling, and I put it on with ROLLERS... lol. Most don't believe that isn't a sprayed semi gloss single stage automotive paint.. Honestly, I've found that its almost all in the prep work, and being very patient with applying whatever paint you choose.
Wow! I use rattle cans all the time. I am getting ready to repaint a Unimat lathe that I bought in the 1960s and am I glad I watched this video first. Thank you very much.
Learning that rattle cans have high viscosity was informative. Also that there’s a direct relationship between viscosity and sanding grit. Makes sense now that you say it.
I'm stoked to find your channel! I've experimented with paints for years on little plastic cars. What your teaching applies to me, but obviously, on a smaller scale. On thing I've always noticed regardless of the substrate is if you cut it back and it smells like solvent, it needs more cure time. I've always had good luck with doing an initial cut and letting it cure a little longer. I spray with lacquer, mostly automotive. I feel that between the feel of the cutting and possibly the smell, it tells me if it needs more cure time. I use 2K clear, basically an ounce at a time, and have always wondered what the appropriate PPE is. I wear chemocal resistant 11mil gloves, closed eye pro, long sleeve shirt and 3M P100 respirator cartridges with lots of ventilation.
A amateur who has watched a video/video series in how to paint and has never painted a thing except for maybe a model car , is not going to get in a top notch booth and then use the best materials they able to get will not get it right if they are not familiar with how to mix , what to use for what gun you have and so on. I have to agree with you 💯%. I'm going to say that it's going to show what they know and how much they have done it in the past. Great afternoon and enjoy your weekend!
Exactly the same thing happened to me with those wrinkles look perfect got cocky at another coat too soon or not soon enough I've been detailing for over 20 years but I've never wet sanded and buffed a rattle can paint job. thanks for the video. I learned something. It does look really good timer nice job😊
Even if all you use is a rattle can, this video is totally worth the you'll invest in viewing. You will learn something you didn't know. Plus, this dude is totally laid back and brimming with practical and professional info. Cool vid. Cool channel. 🍻
Actually happy to see you do a tank instead of a car as I'm about to do the tank on my 1986 Yamaha Radian (have to repair two very shallow dents, so I'll be doing filler and a primer coat also). Then I'm going to do my smart car since my local paint shops don't want to mess with the plastic panels. Some really useful instructions in this video. Thanks.
Great to see the whole process, good and bad. I am going to spray can a section of a car where the factory paint is coming off in sheets. Prep, prep, and prep.
I'd like to thank the leafs and their fans for allowing us to finally get over the hump and make it to the 2nd round. So glad you guys up in Toronto exist. I think this has happened before. Lol, you guys are like Santa Claud.
Awesome video here Kevin!!! I think you’re on to something here. You’re not only talking and but just as importantly, you are hands on. Don’t get me wrong here. I can listen to you explaining the science behind your painting methods til the cows come home. But sometime it can become a bit cloudy. When you break it down plus you’re showing what you are explaining, it’s a game changer for me. Please more of these types of videos. Thank you for letting the RUclips world pick your brain.
I painted a full interior of a 64 Ford Falcon with a rattle can. I used Red Rusto’ to cover my white primer coat and then used PPG Rangoon Red to cover the Rusto (excellent base that saved my a lot of money compared to PPG) so I could achieve the color I wanted. Not too much sanding was required to get a fantastic result. I then cleared it with a skim and two slightly heavier coats and then sanded between coats until I was 5 deep. Some of my friends who are experienced painters did not believe me when I told them I rattled the interior panels. It does require a lot more time to rattle can, but if a feller doesn’t have a compressor and etc, well, then it can be done--however, the PPG paint, as a finishing material, is way better in my experience, plus lots of color options are possible. Fun video!
Kevin. Good job not getting "rattled" much by failure and allowing us to see how you recovered. Rustoleum paints are soft and remain so. They also have adherence problems and while they have a superior spray can, the contents are not that good in spite of their advertising. Fade quickly in sunlight as well. If you use a fan in the shop while painting, aim it toward your opening so that the wind created blows out, not onto the piece being painted. Much less dust that way and more effective. Second, be sure of your compressed air supply. Many compressors put out a fine oil mist. There are good filters and since you cannot use one on your spray can as you would on a gun, good practice to use an effective filter on the line you will be using to dust off your part. Cut down on the caffeine! You would have gone in the hole on this one!
I'm happy that things went a little pear shaped for you because I learned more from that than watching another person just doing a perfect job without the flaws and mess ups that people like me have. Thank you for a great video, I'm subscribing 😊
Hey Kevin, it’s Wayne from central Alberta here, to be very honest with ya I have no clue about body work. Wood working yes, I’m in the midst of rebuilding/restoring some very old wood lathes and a scroll saw my father bought new in 1942 that he used in his furniture/cabinet shop. I inherited them all and watching this video helps me understand on how I need to start the restorations. I’m sure as I watch more of your videos I will have lots of questions. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and time.👍 Take care Wayne
You are left handed... So that means you are a perfectionist. Just like me, when I painted my guitars, boy it took forever. It is ALWAYS about the prep. The rest is easy. Clean, Level, Prime, Clean, Paint, Level, Clear coat, Level, etc... and on and on. Great work.
I love that international scout in the back ground.I used to own one a 1966 .It was stick shift with 3 sticks.Small sticks all the way forward was 4 wheel drive high.All the way back was low and had to turn outside wheel hubs to 4 by4. Good four wheelers i wished i still had mine.
I do museum quality restorations of old motorcycles- covered in magazines. Note the care and pace of his work. Thinks everything through in advance...carefully. Moves slowly and deliberately thorough each step. Cleans twice to be sure. Pro all the way. This is the attitude that gets pro results.
Wow. I love the step by step process, as well as the very educational mistakes and oversights.. Very real and very honest. My first paint project and it looked pretty decent. Watched the video again, and my second attempt was really good. Awesome video. Great content and tips. Gods continued blessings.
What good timing! I bought a 1992 horse trailer a couple of weeks ago that is just now beginning to show a bit of rusting and flaking, probably from gravel spray and general horse use, but is in otherwise excellent shape. I've been mulling over my options for a budget-friendly way to address those very small areas, and I've narrowed it down to the Rust-Oleum Farm & Implement Enamel and rust stopping primer. My plan is just to prep the spots that need addressing until I achieve a smooth transition between them and the surrounding gloss white paint, rather than tackling the whole trailer. I was debating whether I should go the rattle can route or if I should invest in a paint sprayer system for just the one project. After seeing your results, I'm definitely leaning toward the cans and prep, prep, prep.
Not happy you failed but glade you had the results I always get when I use rattle cans. They are not made for show quality paint jobs. I was shocked it took 6 coats to wrinkle. It seems it’s time more than coats. Anything after 30min after the second coat you are risking it. Thank you for being honest with your results.
quick tip for rattle can painting in cooler area, set the can in a bowl of warm/hot water before spraying for better flow out. great job and great video!
Great information, thank you. In my case as a guy who doesn't have the usual equipment such as air compressor and paint guns and all the stuff, nor the knowledge and experience to use them with skill, a rattlecan seems the appropriate choice. My options for painting my 64 Valiant are do it myself on the cheap or pay to have it done. My finances are limited, so again I'm thinking rattlecans. I can do the prep. I can invest my time. And I'll be happy with a non-show car result. I've also seen folks on RUclips shooting clear over rustoleum with good results.
I've done it myself, 5 years ago I painted a 2002 honda cbr600f4i red with rustolium. Used spraymaxx 2k glamor gloss clear. It didn't fade at all and red usually always fades
Awesome video. Great description and direction. Your mannerisms make for an enjoyable video. Had me laughing while learning. Two thumbs up and two big toes.
I could tell that your repair polish was working great when I could see the reflection of the fluorescent light bar ( behind you above the work bench ) the orange peel wrinkle went away and I could see that you were “going in the right direction” . Fantastic video on the “reality” of painting for the “average” guy. Great “recovery” from a seeming “disaster”. 👍
Fantastic video. Great tutorial. Learned more from this video than almost all others combined. Very professional and detailed enough for me to go into the garage do some painting.
Great video and how you explain the “how too” and the “whys” are on point…As a “semi-beginner”(but I %100 know) that the quality of your prep work and attention to your sanding/wet sanding habits are key to a quality paint job. Btw, the ‘shutoff ‘ valve is called a “Petcock”… 🧐😂🇺🇸🤦♂️😎😇
In the end.it came out really nice but the question I have is if it didn't wrinkle up would you still have gone through the process of Sanding and buffing to get that finish?
Don't color with paint... PAINT with it! LOL!!! Thanks for watching... subscribe!! Like!!! Let me know what you want to see on here!
@@leodmcabre5548 I'm much better with full size paint guns... this was actually really difficult!!
I have had that same problem with rustoleum. My buddy that actually built his RUclips channel(Moore motorsports) painting cars with rustoleum lays it out wet from the first coat, but has developed the skill to know how wet before getting runs. His stuff blows my mind
I have a ? What about clearing over it after the 5000 finish sand then possibly another finish sand on the clear then polish
I would like to see how to get paint AND clear smooth Under the front edge of hood scoops. Example 70-75 Pontiac Formula hoods. Thanks again Kevin ! ( Turn it up Loud!)
@@JTL93Mopar my buddies channel (Moore motorsports) he has done a ton of full spray can rustoleum paint jobs and even cleared over it. One car he even added a ghost Pearl to the clear. Also another couple channels gt's performance and whitley autoworks does a lot of experiments with various pearls over rustoleum in clear.
Im impressed that it didnt go as planned...and you still showed it...then showed how to fix it. Which is great for beginners to see.
Well done.
WE can tell the truth on RUclips! Thanks!
100% Great aspect to the video. I am for sure going to mess painting up!
Agreed. Absolutely love this video. Great to see someone with so much experience learning and passing on some of that experience. Recognizing what is going wrong is something that just comes with that experience. Really appreciated how he was able to point out the warning signs of the paint job going wrong and what to do about it.
That was the moment I knew I was subscribing, I loved how you were thinking out loud as you worked through. Nicely done, Bravo!
@@jeffdiaz2000 Thanks man!
45 years of rattle can painting, taught by master furniture repairman at one of the biggest furniture stores in Oklahoma. I would never let spray paint sit for more than 20 minutes between coats...tops.
Really good video about the spray patterns and applying technics.
As far as your conclusions, I doubt many people watching this video are already using a spray gun. The other thing that comes to mind is why you did not mention 2k clear for longer life. I customize 4 wheelers and side by sides and use the 2k on brightly painted suspension parts and have good luck on longevity.
I mainly added this comment for people watching this, so they know 2k is an option for increased durability, not to bust your balls....I subscribed...:)
I've never really worked hard on getting a good exterior paintjob with rattles... I wish your guy ( or you!) was (were) around to ask questions, he seems like he was a wealth of knowledge. With catalyzed automotive, you can extend flashtimes, and it was so interesting to me that solvent and the paint layers are even more sensitive WITHOUT a catalyst... Regardless, it was a fun experiment! I learned alot from it... and I believe when we learn we grow. Sorry if that sounds corny, just how I think. Thanks for watching! I hope you've subscribed. :)
I just commented pretty much the same. I rattle, air brush, then 2K and it saves the customer so much $ . I give them the choice of course, rattle can or HVLP sprayer. I only do motorcycles though. Quicker and easier 😉
You are not only a hell of a good paint and body man but also a great teacher. Thanks
I'm glad I found your Chanel I used to watch u work magic for hours every Saturday morning.
Good followup from another prospective of painting + staining furniture. Probably much more tedious since dealing with different types of wood and metal.
My rule with rattle can paint. Stop when it looks good no matter how many coats because one more coat will always mess it up. 😂
and...... you were RIGHT!!! LOL!
And that's also why I don't really ever paint with rattle cans 😊
Rule 2: Refer to rule 1.
Obviously, haha. I've painted with cans since I was about 13 yrs old... and I'm 66 now. There is an art to painting with rattle cans. Patients is key, and knowing the different brands and their chemical contents. Always test first... Always.
My problem is it always looks good in some places, and too light in others. Then trying to fill in the light spots without overdoing the others. Especially with harsh contours.
How refreshing. A technician with a positive attitude to work. Brilliant.
Your repair here actually made the video even more educational.
Ted, when we screw up, we remember those lessons! That's when we grow the most. If someone can learn from my mistakes, all the better!
So true. Everyone makes mistakes and now we know at least one more way to fix it. Thank you KT!
I used this paint to paint my bike. It says on the can to recoat "within 1 hour or after 48 hours." My experience is if you wait more than 30 minutes, it will wrinkle every time, because the new paint dries quicker than the previous coat. You do several coats waiting no more than 15 minutes, then leave it for 48 hours to wet sand. After sanding you must wait another 48 hours to recoat or clear. If you don't want to sand, you can clear within that 30-minute window or you have to wait 48 hours. I've tried everything with regular Rustoleum and 2X rustoleum, these rules are absolute.
You are correct. Within 30 minutes, or after 2 days! I use rattle cans on a number of things, and I want to rush things, thinking it's dry enough. NOPE!! 😂
Rustoleum is more prone to wrinkling than any of the other brands out there in my experience. For that reason I will not use Rustoleum paint on a project.
15 years ago i did a rattle can paint job on one of the largest cars made. My 1960 Lincoln. Used Loew's cheapest paint. 35 cans primer and 50 cans color coat. Lots and lots of wet sanding and rubbing and polishing compound. Still looks great today. Ive had people think im pulling thier leg at car shows when i tell them its a rattle can paint job!😂
50 coats? At that point, wasn't it cheaper to pay a pro? Just curious the costs?
@@911axe at only $2,49 a can and the primer free,it was far far cheaper than any pro paint shop. I called it my poormans paint job. It was very labour intensive though. I wouldent do it again. For one thing,i have to keep it out of the weather and heavily waxed as there is no clearcoat to protect that enamel paint.
@@geralderdek282 Get a gallon of Lacquer paint was cheap back then $20 at any auto body paint supply store I painted a 61 F-250 on side yard of a friends house. Used old school high pressure spray gun where the tank is under the gun. We spent about $100 took us one day mostly prep sanding. Nice thing about Lacquer lot less fumes don't piss off the neighborhood spraying today's epoxy, or urethane.
@@Mike-01234 yes, and my wife still recalls the fumes from those spray cans and i remember my sore finger from holding the button nozzle down! Ive since learned modern base coat clear coat spraying since then.
@@911axe- it says 50 cans, not 50 coats.
In 1978 I painted my 71 VW bug in Germany outside my army barracks one summer. After I buffed it out with rubbing compound to remove the overspray and orange peel it looked fabulous.
I. miss my 1967 VW Squareback....the1600 motor was so quick
Did mine in a parking lot it was absolutely beautiful
What??? No stupid music? How refreshing!
I need that stupid guitar riff, to make me want to engage with the mechanic!!! Horrible show, shut it down! 😂😂😂
And furthermore, I don’t appreciate him not talking like a news anchor. That’s the nail in the coffin for this channel!😂
And how
YES!!!! I hate Porn music on videos.
Getting the vibes of a Saturday morning 90s car show
I miss the fishing shows and the car shows.
@@emilymiller1853 Me too. As a kid it a was Saturday morning cartoons. When I was older it was powerblock.
He hosted one so it's not surprising
Good times!!!
NAILED IT!! ❤❤
That is the first thing I thought and literally said out loud while watching, I thought "OH CRAP, he's going to crackle" Then before you go to paint correction wait for it to cure. That is 48 hours at the minimum. I wait 72 on anything I am doing.
YES, full dry (not cure) and prep sand OR apply mult coats about 10 minutes between. i think Kevin got coat happy. Rustoluem works fine with 2 to 4 coats.
Use Lacquer, (hard to find in cool colors) recoat anytime!
Yes, I also admitted that I exceeded the instructions and made up my own rules.... I actually really like the product, Great engineering on the tip/cap! Not trying to disparage Rust-Oleum at all. Sorry if it came off that way. :) ( in my defense.... I'm old and I literally had to get a magnifying glass to read the instructions... hard to read! LOL!)
@@awesomearizona-dino nailed-it
When I rode a motorcycle I put a full fairing on it (Windjammer II). Your choice of fairing colors was either white or black. My motorcycle was a metallic green. I had added a different gas tank for an extra gallon.
In the 20 years I owned it I repainted the bike and fairing twice. Both times with rattle cans. As with painting a car with a spray gun, I was careful to dismantle everything, clean tape and sand. I wanted the bike to be two toned, with 1/8" pinstripes separating the two colors, and the color division line following the lines of the fairing into the tank and side covers. Each color was painted separately, with multiple coats (sanded in between each). When done it looked like a professional job and I received a lot of compliments on it. The secret was time, patience and keeping everything clean.
Love the fact that you called yourself out. There is always so much useful information in your videos.
On RUclips I get to tell the truth! 😁
Another thing that helps with rattle cans - I set mine in a bowl of warm/almost hot water for a few minutes and between coats. The paint seems to flow better and less chances of sputtering when it's warm. Enjoyed the video!
You're correct sir, warming the paint cans in warm water better atomizes the spray. Especially relevant in cooler air temps. After paint hardens, you must wet sand with 500 and 1000 to smooth out dust and orange peel surfaces. Final: Top coat ALL auto/motorcycle paint coats with a 2K clear to preserve all the hard work from any environmental fallout.
And, if you do it often, look into "graffiti caps". A "calligraphy" or "transversal" spray cap will give you that great consistent spray pattern. They are cheap to pick up and do a great job to give you a good spray pattern instead of the messy cone shape that seems so standard.
Fantastic video Kevin! I appreciate the fact that you included the kamikaze bug and the paint wrinkling up. Being a good painter is all about being able to fix mistakes and problems whenever they happen. Please keep the videos coming. God bless you.
Thank you sir! we all have things like that happen... and you're right, what makes a good painter is if they can get themselves out of trouble!!
I think the long flash time mistake made this even more educational than anticipated with correction information. Great all encompassing video covering spray can capabilities, expectation and things to watch out for, not to mention prep.
I had a LOT of fun using a colour and a clear coat...in cans...to "restore" the failed paint on my Civic's roof, bootlid, and bonnet. Leaving the sides alone, I blended it all together as best I could. It worked: it shined, and it was better than leaving the dead paint and bare metal. I enjoyed my results for 7 more years until...I blew the car's motor.
Oh, well...what the heck? I had...FUN.
Your video here brings back a lot of good memories. Cheers!
Coool! Glad you liked it!!
This was a great video, I appreciate you taking the time
I'm a newbie and a RUclips do-it-yourselfer trying to repaint the back corner panel of my F-150.
I've watched a few videos. This one's the best by far.
Cheers!🍻
Thanks man!!! Glad it helps!
You are the best teacher. We learn from our mistakes and we learn from other people's mistakes.
A smart man learns from his mistakes. A wise man learns from other’s mistakes.
Kevin... Sir you are the reason why I started painting. Watching your shows on the weekends, ordering you VHS tapes and DVDs. Sir you are the BEST!!!
Hey Chris!!! So to me you're the OG and someone that is the foundation of all the crazy stuff I've been able to to for years! Thank you sir! I owe my career to folks that believed in me. YOU are the best!
I bought a used silver camper shell for my black truck for a steal of a price. Obviously, I didn't care for the silver back gorilla look. I made a paint booth out of my popup beach tent, some clear plastic drop cloth, a box fan on one side pulling air out and a furnace filter over an opening allowing air in on opposite side. Black cheap rattle can paint (took about 8 cans to cover). I then spend a bit more on clear rattle can paint with the catalyst popper on bottom bought online. I think it took 3 cans to coat. The job turned out professional looking with a very slight amount of orange peal that really isn't that noticeable. Still holding up well today after about 5 years.
I'm happy to see that Kevin is a true at heart believer in a quality job done right by utilizing the importance of preparing prior to the painting process. I been around people that are more obsessed with fast half ass rushed jobs. They can't see or appreciate a quality done job until they see the difference between the two. Some even make remarks and say or ask why do I spend so much time on preparing. Well I always say if I'm going to a job. It's going to be done right or I just won't do it at all. That's it nothing else to say.
Kevin, do more fast forwarding thru the sanding process. Your killing my streaming data. Lol!
By far the most amusing, most informational paint videos out there. Thanks Kevin. I’m sure you’re heard it a million times already, but it’s good to see you on camera again making content.
Thanks!!! Glad you like it! Lots more good stuff coming soon.
for people who do not paint for work/living/regularly, this video is awesome because 1) a bug in what you're painting and 2) a chemical reaction is totally things that happen in real life and Im glad kevin left this in the video. Seeing how much sanding and prep goes into painting something isnt something that non paint people understand either. pretty cool!!
You are a really great instructor /presenter.. Some of my fondest tv memories, was watching you on trucks in my younger days. That was the only television I watched back then, and looked forward to Saturday morning just for that..
Well, get used to this being a regular thing... I'm having alot of fun producing this content, whatever happens from here, who knows but it's great to be able to have the freedom to make mistakes, and tell my truth. thanks for watching all those years, I hope to keep you engaged here as well! KT
The Bob Ross of painting metal and an awesome clip!
A friend of mine had the same wrinkling issue. He just let it cure and told everyone that that was the neat effect that he was looking for. When he said that, everyone thought it was so cool. A few guys even asked his "secret" for being able to get a finish like that. He told them it was a trade secret and they would have to figure it out for themselves. He is now considered a painting "guru". Hey, if life gives you a lemon, make lemonade!
The one time I tried to pull that stunt, the paint never cured. A week later, it was still tacky.
I am retired and one of my hobbies is conserving antique sewing machines, returning them to usable condition. Right now that consists mostly of cleaning, which I really enjoy. I will bookmark this video for when I am ready to tackle a paint job! I am still reluctant to paint because I have limited space and resources, so a "rattle can" is intriguing. Thank you.
Kevin, you certainly made a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Cool to see a professional demonstrate how a backyard DIY method can produce excellent results.
Thank you for showing this. You could have edited and made it seem so easy and the perfect result. Being real and genuine in this process is amazing. You added to your reputation, not degrad. True Master Bro!!
Knowing when to walk away is great advice. I paint a lot of projects with spray paint and it can be a pain but also a cheaper alternative and easy to find. Great video.
Such an honest video on the subject. I found you a few months ago after watching you and Dereck paint that truck on the show. I trust what you are teaching us and have seen only a few videos so far. Now I'm subscribing to yet another channel - yours - in my long arsenal of must watch. Painting is not for those without patience.
This worth more, than any book education on this subject. Again, well done Kevin.
Thanks!!! Glad you liked it. :)
buying the right cap sprayer for a rattle can makes a world of difference. Painted my moms VW bug when i was a kid and it came out great.
As an aged ex-sprayer of many vehicles, I strongly reccomend that those using rattle cans, ("Spraybombs", in Aus.), get one of those handles that the can fits in with a proper trigger mechanism . Using it feels just like bottom bucket spraygun in your hand. Does away with hand fatigue and paint squirting everywhere.! Available from most auto stores.?
Oh yes, they are a finger saver for sure. First time I did a rattle can job on a vehicle, my trigger finger was stuck for hours.
Agree. I was using a can the other day and couldn't figure out why it kept spraying drips. My finger was partly over the nozzle.
Thanks Kevin!!! Love your videos!
I love rustoleum, and the new spray nozzles are awesome. Nozzles 1-3 are heavier to lighter conical sprays....4 and 5 are the real sprayers.
Note, it does state on the can recoat within 1 hour or AFTER 48 hours. Follow that. Like Kevin, I do 5 ish min between light coats, 10min between heavy. My last 1 or maybe 2 coats might be Rustoleum clear coat over the color, light, then wet it out. Here's the catch to it all: ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED WITHIN THE 1 HOUR RECOAT WINDOW - OR YOU MUST WAIT. That means for 6 layers all told no matter light or heavy, paint of clear, you have barely enough time to complete it in the hour. To do a whole car, its hood, one fender, one door at a time....doing the f-body unibody is hustle time, even without the deck lid. It is doable.
I still seal with 2K epoxy. Do not bother with rustoleum primer.
I'll also say, this paint in humid weather won't really dry for days, maybe weeks until it can be polished properly. Let it sit. I love this paint!
Welcome to powerblock TV I'm Kevin and today on trucks, we are painting with rattle cans! Good to see you again Kevin!
Thanks for finding my channel! :)
@@paintucation who else has channels? Ian of course, he's everywhere. Anyone else?
@paintucation hey Kevin. Great to see you on here. I used to watch you on trucks on Saturdays. I just sprayed a whole 1996 chevy long bed with this exact sunrise red rustoleum 3 weeks ago. Consider doing a follow up video with spray max 2k clear over this. It will continue with the extreme low budget idea and it will give the rustoleum a longer life vs the uv rays. Spray max 2k is rattle can as well.
@@thomasseiter9841 I second this. Rusto is toast after a short period of time outside… XO-rust lasts a LOT longer but could still use a good clear.
Didn’t notice any comments on this but NOT ALL rattle cans are fuel resistant. Keep that in mind if painting a gas tank. Great tips in this video. I’ve been rattle canning for years and this for sure upped my game. Thanks 🤘🏻
Yeah, My experience is that 1K paint is all subject to reversing/reflowing and staining from gasoline. Good point! Thanks for watching!!
I grew up watching you Kevin as a kid every Saturday morning I’m glad I saw you on VGG helped me find your channel brother
Thanks for watching!!! Glad you're over here as well. :)
It takes a lot of character to admit your failures to the world. Any other RUclipsr would have edited the messy bit out, little realizing that the ability to recover gracefully from mistakes is what makes someone a master. Thank you, sir, for letting us ride along as your worked through a potential disaster. You have earned my Like, my Subscribe, and my respect.
Turning the top of the can will find the arched paint feed tube so it is at the bottom corner of the can. Paint feed tubes are not straight, they are curved to the side/bottom of the can. Usually, there is a black dot on the inside top... Aim the tip toward the black dot. It will feed until can is empty.
I’m sorry I don’t understand. What do you mean by inside top?
@TheOnlySolipsist the small ring near the spray nozzle. Usually there is a black dot indicating where the bottom tip of the plastic siphon straw is located. It's been a while but some manufacturers don't do this anymore.
@@firebald2915 that is probably the best tip I’ve heard in years. I wish I had known about it way back when but it’s never too late. Thank you and I really mean that.
It’s like when I finally learned that the gas gauge on a car actually indicated what side the gas cap is on. It seems so simple and obvious but once known it’s a whole different ball game.
When I first learned it, spraying up (black dot to the rear opposite of direction of spray) and down (dot facing forward or down) made it so much easier. Plus, the blue spray tip, the tip swivels and changes the fan pattern to horizontal or vertical. It's a small rectangle at the tip. The blue spray tip with the exposed wire just below the finger depresser.
Thank you for showing the reality of this and explaining how it doesn't stand up over time. 13 years ago I wish I would have seen this video it would have saved me so much time just buying a quality product.
I've learned from my cheap experiments that if you use a matte or flat Rust-Oleum you can come back over it with a 2k clear and have it last a tad longer with no delamination or weird chemical reaction.
However, it's just not as good. I would save and buy better stuff and do it right. This was an awesome experiment I really enjoyed it.
How long do you wait until you sorta 2k clear after spraying the last color coat
Thanks for your honesty in showing the wrinkle issue you had. I've had the same issue with rustoleum myself.
Always cover other vehicles when spraying a rattle can in the shop. That white vehicle in the back might have some fine dots with the fan blowing in that direction.
Thank you for pointing out the real pitfalls.
The lack of durability is reason enough for me, but when you heap in all of the extra time and stress it makes a nice 3 hour day in the booth seem like a holiday!
I cannot express how happy I am to see people either re-discovering Kevin or just now learning about him.
He's one of the best out there when it comes to teaching and explaining things with paint. He's not afraid to poke fun at himself and show mistakes. And he'll EXPLAIN why things went wrong and how to fix.
All the views on the channel here lately.....glad to see him getting his flowers again from the community.
Thanks man! we're just getting started!!
Thank you for the emphasis on prepping. It really does make all the difference. I have done numerous MTB parts with rattle cans and they all turn out fine because I take the time to clean and sand.
Great video with some very helpful information. Much appreciated!
Thanks for watching!! glad you got some nuggets. :)
Rustoleum is REALLY finicky about flash time between coats...15-25 minutes or so is it. If you want to put more material on after that time's elapsed, you're gonna need to let it fully cure first, or it'll wrinkle & lift as you discovered.
Luckily, I found out shooting guitar bodies before I moved on to bigger projects..
I shot my '95 C1500 tu-tone Hunter Green & Almond with the stuff, and it looked great for a few years...now it's beginning to get a little chalky (from UV, I guess).
I'm thinking of doing it again...just scuff & shoot the same spray bombs, and then putting a "real" clear coat on after full cure for UV protection.
Does that sound like a realistic plan?
Kevin is the OG of online tutorials for paint and bodywork. Thanks for all the wisdom over the years
Back in the eighties, my partner and I did a lot of custom work, cars and bikes. I did most of the painting because Kevin would do a line or two between coats and forget his flash time. Bad news when you're spraying multiple, multiple coats of lacquer. Those were the days. Lol
Black lacquer is sooooo forgiving.
Try coffee. It doesn't have a heavy speed after effect. Lol
As someone who decided to spray can my project car to just get it running thanks for all the info.
I have a 20footer, but way better than the basket case that sat for 34 years.
I knew how this would turn out yet I still watched the whole thing. Glad to see you bring it back from the wrinkle stage..
I like SprayMax 2K Crystal Clear after a rattle can paint job. I did that with my tank and it came out wonderful.
I use the same stuff. It works great and seems to hold up quite well. Doesn't fade. I painted a Cbr 600 red 5 years ago with rattle cans and cleared with spraymax 2k clear. Red spray paint always fades fast, but with that 2k clear it has enough solids to protect it from sunlight. I don't think I'd paint a car that way, but small stuff is great.
Ok , great video. Now, what about a roller job and polish after? Lol
hot rod or one of those car mags did exactly that like 20 years ago using white rustoleum. apparently it came out good but was a ton of work sanding and polishing after.
roller is less spray messy but if it doesn't come out smooth. you 'll have to sand it. it call comes down to the same. I've done it all and you wouldnt tell if i did it with a can or spray gun.
Ive rattle canned the engine compartment and all the jambs, including trunk of my 74 Charger using Oreilleys primer and sealer and a factory color and clear coat from another manufacturer 15 yrs ago. Still looks FANTASTIC!!🌟
40:29 "Getting past the wrinkly bits" is what my girlfriend calls... Y'know what? Nevermind.
Great video. Top tier. 👍
We got it. Nice stop. Lol!
Great to see things go wrong, and not be edited out. I’ve learned more from this, than I ever would with an edited video.
Loving the scout in the background
It's comin up soon!
Kevin i loved watching your segments on TV its great to see you still preaching the faith on youtube, this is excellent content.
I've found that Rust-oleum is the slowest drying and softest paint out there, I've painted tons of things with a rattle can, I prefer Dupli color or Krylon myself.
That's the problem with rattle cans, it's not capitalized and will remain soft for a long time. Can you get a a factory looking finish with a rattle can? Yes. Will it hold up like a factory finish? No...not unless you put 2K clear over it.
Interesting video, glad to see you battling the doubters! I rattle canned my truck about 12 years ago. Did all prep as if it was "real" ;) paint; sanded, washed, etch primer, the whole 9 yards(although as I recall I didn't sand finer than about 320, and it was dry sanded, and power sanded.. lazy, but careful) but primer and paint, and racing stripes over the top were all Rustoleum out of a can. This was long before those fancy nozzles too. Whole thing took about 3 days, over a long weekend.
For Years people complimented that paint job, asked the paint, and where I got it done, or how I did it, what gun I used, whose booth etc... No one ever believes its rattle can.
Even some semi pro car guys that paint their own projects thought its at least a single stage auto paint before the gloss started to fade.
After about 6 or 7 years the gloss was going pretty fast, and its a matte paint, color a bit less vibrant now. I have the engine out now and doing body rust repair (things I ignored fixing 12 years ago)too in down time, I'll sand it all and re-spray it in the same Rustoleum this year.
I thought about clear originally, but rattle can clear never comes out smooth for me, and a buddy spraying "real" clear over "real" paint was having a bitch of a time with that learning curve, I wasn't risking my shiny job then. This time I might try to clear one. That buddy is now doing really good yard/garage sprays with single stage paints, so I might get him to try a clear for me. Or not. Time will tell.
Now I've moved on to using a direct to metal housing and outdoors paint, made by Behr, that is high solids and self leveling, and I put it on with ROLLERS... lol. Most don't believe that isn't a sprayed semi gloss single stage automotive paint.. Honestly, I've found that its almost all in the prep work, and being very patient with applying whatever paint you choose.
Could you clear coat that?
That's been my question (forever) about rattle can paint jobs, if not or if so, when in the process can I apply a clearcoat.
I've applied 2k clear coat to rattle can paint. It looks great.
@cesars7860 how long did you have to wait after the final sanding to apply the clear? Thanks
Wow! I use rattle cans all the time. I am getting ready to repaint a Unimat lathe that I bought in the 1960s and am I glad I watched this video first. Thank you very much.
Hope it helps!! Thanks for watching!
Tennessee paint bug😂
The struggle is REAL! :)
Learning that rattle cans have high viscosity was informative. Also that there’s a direct relationship between viscosity and sanding grit. Makes sense now that you say it.
Oh, come on, you know you get dirt and bugs when you paint in a booth ! It seems to be part of the painting process!
I'm stoked to find your channel! I've experimented with paints for years on little plastic cars. What your teaching applies to me, but obviously, on a smaller scale. On thing I've always noticed regardless of the substrate is if you cut it back and it smells like solvent, it needs more cure time. I've always had good luck with doing an initial cut and letting it cure a little longer. I spray with lacquer, mostly automotive. I feel that between the feel of the cutting and possibly the smell, it tells me if it needs more cure time. I use 2K clear, basically an ounce at a time, and have always wondered what the appropriate PPE is. I wear chemocal resistant 11mil gloves, closed eye pro, long sleeve shirt and 3M P100 respirator cartridges with lots of ventilation.
"Show" quality depends on the show.
Well said!
A amateur who has watched a video/video series in how to paint and has never painted a thing except for maybe a model car , is not going to get in a top notch booth and then use the best materials they able to get will not get it right if they are not familiar with how to mix , what to use for what gun you have and so on. I have to agree with you 💯%. I'm going to say that it's going to show what they know and how much they have done it in the past. Great afternoon and enjoy your weekend!
Exactly the same thing happened to me with those wrinkles look perfect got cocky at another coat too soon or not soon enough I've been detailing for over 20 years but I've never wet sanded and buffed a rattle can paint job. thanks for the video. I learned something. It does look really good timer nice job😊
Thanks for the comment! Glad you picked up some stuff. :)
Real world issues are nice to see professionals have them, and work through them... great job..
Even if all you use is a rattle can, this video is totally worth the you'll invest in viewing. You will learn something you didn't know. Plus, this dude is totally laid back and brimming with practical and professional info. Cool vid. Cool channel. 🍻
Thank you so much!!!!
Actually happy to see you do a tank instead of a car as I'm about to do the tank on my 1986 Yamaha Radian (have to repair two very shallow dents, so I'll be doing filler and a primer coat also). Then I'm going to do my smart car since my local paint shops don't want to mess with the plastic panels. Some really useful instructions in this video. Thanks.
Great to see the whole process, good and bad. I am going to spray can a section of a car where the factory paint is coming off in sheets. Prep, prep, and prep.
I'd like to thank the leafs and their fans for allowing us to finally get over the hump and make it to the 2nd round. So glad you guys up in Toronto exist. I think this has happened before. Lol, you guys are like Santa Claud.
Awesome video here Kevin!!!
I think you’re on to something here. You’re not only talking and but just as importantly, you are hands on. Don’t get me wrong here. I can listen to you explaining the science behind your painting methods til the cows come home. But sometime it can become a bit cloudy. When you break it down plus you’re showing what you are explaining, it’s a game changer for me. Please more of these types of videos. Thank you for letting the RUclips world pick your brain.
Got lots more on the way!!! Thanks for watching.
I painted a full interior of a 64 Ford Falcon with a rattle can. I used Red Rusto’ to cover my white primer coat and then used PPG Rangoon Red to cover the Rusto (excellent base that saved my a lot of money compared to PPG) so I could achieve the color I wanted. Not too much sanding was required to get a fantastic result. I then cleared it with a skim and two slightly heavier coats and then sanded between coats until I was 5 deep. Some of my friends who are experienced painters did not believe me when I told them I rattled the interior panels. It does require a lot more time to rattle can, but if a feller doesn’t have a compressor and etc, well, then it can be done--however, the PPG paint, as a finishing material, is way better in my experience, plus lots of color options are possible. Fun video!
Kevin. Good job not getting "rattled" much by failure and allowing us to see how you recovered. Rustoleum paints are soft and remain so. They also have adherence problems and while they have a superior spray can, the contents are not that good in spite of their advertising. Fade quickly in sunlight as well. If you use a fan in the shop while painting, aim it toward your opening so that the wind created blows out, not onto the piece being painted. Much less dust that way and more effective. Second, be sure of your compressed air supply. Many compressors put out a fine oil mist. There are good filters and since you cannot use one on your spray can as you would on a gun, good practice to use an effective filter on the line you will be using to dust off your part. Cut down on the caffeine! You would have gone in the hole on this one!
I'm happy that things went a little pear shaped for you because I learned more from that than watching another person just doing a perfect job without the flaws and mess ups that people like me have. Thank you for a great video, I'm subscribing 😊
Hey Kevin, it’s Wayne from central Alberta here, to be very honest with ya I have no clue about body work. Wood working yes, I’m in the midst of rebuilding/restoring some very old wood lathes and a scroll saw my father bought new in 1942 that he used in his furniture/cabinet shop. I inherited them all and watching this video helps me understand on how I need to start the restorations. I’m sure as I watch more of your videos I will have lots of questions. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and time.👍 Take care Wayne
Hey! a fellow Canuck! thanks for the sub!
You are left handed... So that means you are a perfectionist. Just like me, when I painted my guitars, boy it took forever. It is ALWAYS about the prep. The rest is easy. Clean, Level, Prime, Clean, Paint, Level, Clear coat, Level, etc... and on and on. Great work.
I love that international scout in the back ground.I used to own one a 1966 .It was stick shift with 3 sticks.Small sticks all the way forward was 4 wheel drive high.All the way back was low and had to turn outside wheel hubs to 4 by4. Good four wheelers i wished i still had mine.
I do museum quality restorations of old motorcycles- covered in magazines. Note the care and pace of his work. Thinks everything through in advance...carefully. Moves slowly and deliberately thorough each step. Cleans twice to be sure. Pro all the way. This is the attitude that gets pro results.
Thank you sir!!!
Wow. I love the step by step process, as well as the very educational mistakes and oversights.. Very real and very honest. My first paint project and it looked pretty decent. Watched the video again, and my second attempt was really good. Awesome video. Great content and tips. Gods continued blessings.
What good timing! I bought a 1992 horse trailer a couple of weeks ago that is just now beginning to show a bit of rusting and flaking, probably from gravel spray and general horse use, but is in otherwise excellent shape. I've been mulling over my options for a budget-friendly way to address those very small areas, and I've narrowed it down to the Rust-Oleum Farm & Implement Enamel and rust stopping primer. My plan is just to prep the spots that need addressing until I achieve a smooth transition between them and the surrounding gloss white paint, rather than tackling the whole trailer. I was debating whether I should go the rattle can route or if I should invest in a paint sprayer system for just the one project. After seeing your results, I'm definitely leaning toward the cans and prep, prep, prep.
Kevin, you are awesome, one question is the water you use, does it have liquid dish soap in it?
Donald, YES! I use a couple drops per quart of dishwashing liquid. Brand doesnt matter, as long as its dishwashing soap. Thanks for watching!
Not happy you failed but glade you had the results I always get when I use rattle cans. They are not made for show quality paint jobs. I was shocked it took 6 coats to wrinkle. It seems it’s time more than coats. Anything after 30min after the second coat you are risking it. Thank you for being honest with your results.
I'll tell the truth... :) Thanks for watching!
Outstanding! Excellent content. Unlike a lot of channels, you showed the best and the not so best of the experiment. Thanks
quick tip for rattle can painting in cooler area, set the can in a bowl of warm/hot water before spraying for better flow out. great job and great video!
Thanks for showing us all the warts and wrinkles in this project! Well done!
Great information, thank you. In my case as a guy who doesn't have the usual equipment such as air compressor and paint guns and all the stuff, nor the knowledge and experience to use them with skill, a rattlecan seems the appropriate choice. My options for painting my 64 Valiant are do it myself on the cheap or pay to have it done. My finances are limited, so again I'm thinking rattlecans. I can do the prep. I can invest my time. And I'll be happy with a non-show car result. I've also seen folks on RUclips shooting clear over rustoleum with good results.
I've done it myself, 5 years ago I painted a 2002 honda cbr600f4i red with rustolium. Used spraymaxx 2k glamor gloss clear. It didn't fade at all and red usually always fades
Awesome video. Great description and direction. Your mannerisms make for an enjoyable video. Had me laughing while learning. Two thumbs up and two big toes.
Thanks man!!!
I could tell that your repair polish was working great when I could see the reflection of the fluorescent light bar ( behind you above the work bench ) the orange peel wrinkle went away and I could see that you were “going in the right direction” . Fantastic video on the “reality” of painting for the “average” guy. Great “recovery” from a seeming “disaster”. 👍
Great video Kevin, but 4 months after it is in good conditions still?
Blessings.
It's actually decent. Faded out a little though.
Fantastic video. Great tutorial. Learned more from this video than almost all others combined. Very professional and detailed enough for me to go into the garage do some painting.
Thanks for showing the ups and downs of working on things!
Always ups and downs! Thanks for watching!
Great video and how you explain the “how too” and the “whys” are on point…As a “semi-beginner”(but I %100 know) that the quality of your prep work and attention to your sanding/wet sanding habits are key to a quality paint job.
Btw, the ‘shutoff ‘ valve is called a “Petcock”… 🧐😂🇺🇸🤦♂️😎😇
In the end.it came out really nice but the question I have is if it didn't wrinkle up would you still have gone through the process of Sanding and buffing to get that finish?