This "How to Paint a Car at Home" video did a wonderful job convincing me that I never want to paint a car at home. It's so easy! Just do these 400+ steps each of which really requires years of experience to get a decent outcome within a reasonable timeframe.
This is how to do a first class job! Most home jobs I would bet are done quicker with less steps. This video is daunting to me, too. I wanted a quicker and easier method. Oh well, I am wanting to do an old truck and not a classic. I still need to save up some funds and time for doing a passable job.
lol. if you would like me to send you some pic of my first paint job I will. the reason I did it was the shop wanted $8.000.00 and it cost me a little less BUT I can now do it and I will not charge you what your local shop will.
Because the actual title of the video should've been "how to discourage people into thinking painting at home is way more complicated than it is". Trust me, it doesn't take nearly as much effort, knowledge or equipment to paint a car decently at home.
This is to get a professional finish, what they don’t say is you could skip sanding steps throughout, also he does say you don’t have to buff. Definitely take your time with body filler but outside of that do what you can.
Ive been a house painter for a while now. Every other guy in my family is pretty much a mechanic and i wanna get into painting cars. Been looking for RUclips videos that do it the right way. Seems like most everyone is doing shortcut videos which i dont wanna do. Thanks for doing it the right way.
I recently paid $6700 to have my truck painted. I thought that was a high price, but after seeing everything that goes into painting a vehicle I won't complain anymore.
I thought this video was going to be a hack, but these guys are pros! Paint at home? Not me, not in my home, not with the amount of time and effort it took to get there 🤣🤣 That $6700 looks like a really good spend!
its so fun to read all the comments about how much work this is haha having worked in an autobody shop ill tell you these guys actully made it sound easier to me.
You are definitely a straight forward guy. The way you described what, and how you completed each step was amazing! Your probably an amazing teacher! Project turned out amazing!
I took lots of notes and saved this to my YT library. I have the conditioning tool, roll on epoxy kit and watching every painting video that I can find on YT to get ready to paint my 1985 Jeep J10 pickup. Wish me luck because I am going to need it.
That's great! Tag us in some progress pics. We're confident if you take your time and go step by step you can tackle this project. It helps to break it into manageable steps so you don't have overwhelmed when your Jeeps in 1000 pieces and half metal. Keep us posted!
This is def a "saved" video for me that I use every time I question what I'm about to do or which step. All the information is very helpful for a DIYer. I appreciate the simplified explanation yet detailed information. Not a lot of useless information just straight through on what needs to be done to acheave a quality job. Thanks 👍
Fantastic video! Mark has a way of giving confidence to do any job on a restoration! Been an Eastwood customer since the early 80s working on a 65 Corvair- wouldn't trust anyone else.
This video couldnt have come at a better time. Working on a 69 Mustang and planning to do paint myself. I had already been researching Eastwood for supplies and stumbled upon the PDF guide, but seeing it in action along with the “gotchas” made it way more accessible. Great resource.
At 6:00, a teachable mono ent as the fill has pulled away or feather edged. It looks pulled away that meaning it didn't stick due to sanding (Mechanical Tooth/Pressed hard into first application) or (Wasn't clean or fill had started to set up). Any air sanding after the final coat of clear, is done with a finishing sander with 3/16" orbital action, and an intermediate foam pad and kept moving starting with 1/2" (13mm) thick intermediate foam pad with 1,000 grit. Do not use a regular DA sander if if you have sags, runs or nibs. Use a 2" wooden paint stir struck and fine paper like 800-1,200 grit to remove. Once complete there finish sanders are also sold at HF, so look at specs. A regular DA Sander has a 1/4" orbital action normal sanding. Still, look for a palm sander with 3/16" orbital action being sold under specs. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Looks amazing. So much dedication, and craftsmanship. I had a Mazda 3 as this colour. In twilight, misty rain, it became invisible on the roads, unless I put my lights on. So many crashes, were 'they' just didn't see her.
Really great video, most people don’t understand why getting their car painted cost so much. This is truly art. Watching these videos really motivates me in what I do .
If you need all that work at the end to fix runs and debris then I'm paying someone else because a "pro" shouldn't be having those problems in the first place.
@@Omniverse0 That pro, might have spent the prior night drinking, and isnt really focused. Or doesnt like his job, and really doesnt care, because it isnt his car. ,etc. This is why I try to do everything I can myself. Not knocking all pros, but "pros" arent always perfect. Thats with any profession, Take a close look at a newly built home. You will see many flaws if you know what to look for. The average Joe wouldnt know the difference. Ive seen freshly, pro painted collision repairs where the colors dont match, or they dont blend into an adjacent panel, and that makes the new painted repair stick out like a sore thumb. But you paid Pro labor rates for whatever you end up with.
i bought your fender roller and it's badass. I decided to spend the extra money over the cheap-o $50 rollers on Amazon because I enjoy good quality and durability, even though it will probably be a long time before I ever use it again. You've certainly earned my trust! Now it's time for sanding and primer.
Saved!!! Been using many Eastwood products on my restomod and I’m almost ready for step 1 hear. Will definitely follow these steps. Can’t wait to start!
It is a lot of work, but that's why it's KEY to break it into manageable steps instead of getting overwhelmed by the scope of the project. Following these steps YOU too can get a great paint job.
I was feeling brave and eager to paint my own Car... after seeing this I'm backing away from the idea and rather pay an expert for the job... tbh I'm not feeling confident nor skilled enough. Thanks for the video such and eye opener on what goes behind the scenes. Amazing editing too. Kudos!
Ah well that's not what we like to hear! It IS an in depth process and it takes some time. That's why we break it into more bite-size steps so you don't get overwhelmed with the entire process. But thank you for the compliments! If nothing else you can do your body, work, get it into primer using OptiFlow and then hand it off for final paint if you don't feel comfortable. It will still save you THOUSANDS.
Drop coat is most important with metallic as your trying to get the metallic to stand up and shine when clear is applied with out dark dead patches along the panel
Thanks for the video, I'm busy with my 1958 MG Magnette, my arms are falling off block sanding is heavy work lol. The part that worries me is having the right place to do the spray job and an extractor fan system and dust prevention and and and...that's the issue most home DIY spraypainters face. To have the proper environment to paint the car and for it to dry without bugs, dust, overspray etc. Looks like I will now have to make a tempory spray booth!
@@AngelRamirez-yk9ix nice. Keep it up. I want to start doing jobs at home but I’m nervous with the painting process outside of a shop. Please keep me updated on any tips lol once you finish your project
Great video! You guys know what you're doing! I loved the series with Kevin Tetz doing the Camaro. He's a fellow British Columbia boy, so that's what sold me on Eastwood products.
Step 1: have a big, clean garage with lots of tools Step 2: have a great car to start with Step 3: have a LOT of money for parts and supplies Step 4: have plenty of time to work
Well Car, time, and tools are definitely going to be needed for any project. This car was a basket case when we got it. It got new door skins, lower 1/4 panels, and a ton of metal work. As far as money our step-by-step process will save you THOUSANDS over dropping it off at a shop.
I'm not sure why a lot of online painter say you don't/can't block epoxy primer, I followed Marks info and it came out great. I assume it's because they mean you can't block it when it first dries, you DO have to wait a couple three days then it blocks like they did in the video.
Great work and appreciate the step by step process. One thing I wish you showed more was how you handled things like those deep inset headlight areas. Obviously that is a hand sand area, and probably hand cut/buff as well. Curious if you followed the same process and if you had any backer to your sand paper and such.
Yes for those tight areas the standard tools don't reach in we worked by hand. You can use a soft block as a backer, or fold the paper on itself. For cutting and buffing the real move is to make sure they come out glossy the first time. You'd maybe be able to get a 3" buffer in there but it would be tight.
@@eastwoodco Put any rotating tool in the tight area, and if you catch an edge of new paint, F bombs are sure to fly!! Always have a rotating pad turn off of an edge, not into it! You'll learn quick if you did it wrong.
I’m working on my 68 c10 paint job that has 3 coats of different paint jobs and This is the video I was looking for very explainable your video gave me more hype on doing it myself I know I won’t get perfect but I’ll learn from it
That's the spirit! Nothing more satisfying then see your hard work pay off. It's hard to get anything perfect but you can be proud of your results just the same.
Amazing video, great edits. However the only thing that makes the hair on my back stick up is wet sanding and buffing after only 2 coats of clear. This is extremely sketchy on a user error stand point (burn throughs) and also a durability stand point. To low of a film thickness with the clear and it will peel sooner than later
Depends on what clear if you're using a 2 to one high solid expensive clear you get 40 percent urethane a 4 to 1 maby 20 percent urethane cheaper but you need 4 coats to get the same build up . I wouldn't trust 4to1 much about 3 to 5 years. But its easier to spray. Thunder road auto body i use 2 to 1 matrix 3 coats.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I used to use ppg until I had some cars start peeling and it darkened youre blend on light colors there ppg s solution was to only put 1 coat of clear on youre blend. I don't use ppg any more.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I am having trouble getting the matrix 2 t01 I use another on didn'tike it much what do you use . Ther is a shortage of urethane because the government created a shortage of oil.
You need 2 mil to prevent burn through. I guess Eastwood clear is so cheap you can easily put 3-4 coats if you plan to cut and compound? What do you think of finish 1?
So, when doing a complete color change, and you're having to take the vehicle apart for other repair/upgrade items, is it best to paint the pieces individually and then reassemble, or to paint the car all at once, fully assembled?
That's a choice you can make based on booth space, timeline, etc. We did cut in first, re-assembled, then paint the car. It's one less step if you can paint the car "blown apart" because you won't need to sand off the over spray on the body and re-tape the car. But you also need a bigger booth and/or more time to do several booth sessions. We have several more paintjob video's coming that will show alternate methods.
I like to take my hood and fenders off and lay them down so the parts are horizontal because if you spray a little thick its easier to get the thick spots clean
no way you used a z32 chasis for panel overlap example. lmfao, im watching this to learn to paint my freshly body worked 300zx z32..... universe is wild... thanks for info. desperately needed all in one spot. bad ass!
This is the perfect video. Wanting to paint my 57 Chevy when the bodywork is done. This shows me how. I love this video. Questions though. What exactly is a wet coat or a dry coat and what is the difference between the two? Heard them all my life but never saw the difference. Thank you for this great video.
Lets go in application order. A "Dry" coat is sprayed on and will have limited gloss, low reflection, and will flash quickly. A "wet" coat is applied heavier, will immediately be glossy, and will have longer flash time. It's how you want the clear to look when you're finished. Grab the guide here including a glossary of terms :www.eastwood.com/images/library/Eastwood-How-to-Paint-a-Car-color_June2023.pdf
Excellent job! This is on the My Mechanics level, who, by the way, is in the process of restoring a 240Z as well and just prepped his for painting. I'm curious to see if there are many differences in technique. Keep up the amazing work!!
I did a single stage polyurethane in my garage on my Toyota pickup...I wish I would've spent more time on body filler and glaze or whatever...I could've spent WAY more time on the body work, but it went from a 1/10 paint job to about a 4.5/10 paint job. 😂😂😂 Im gonna do my other pickup next but do WAY more body work and paint with a 2 stage. hopefully I'll get it 5/10 🤣 You made this look easy.😁
At 7:36 it is mentioned that the primer should get sanded down to 600 grit OR sealed, does that mean if your using sealer, you do not need to sand down the primer to 600 grit but if your skipping the sealer, you do need to sand down to 600? But on the car, it showed you sanding to 600 and still sealing it?
Omgsh I may try to ain't my truck this will take a lot of time patience at the least I should try doing jams fenderwells then possibly hand off to Macco need to watch this couple more times then download paint guide however that looked so amazing would be fun learning that so nice to see those imperfections then corre tions might be hope for me thanks for video hope your well
Thanks for the comment. Yes it is a lot of work but when you break it out into individual steps it's much more manageable. Sounds like you have a good plan - let us know how it goes!
I have no idea why this came up in my feed, but I did a double look. I had a 260Z in 1982/83 for many years. My dad was a welder by trade and did numerous car repairs, paint jobs, rebuilds, etc. My Z car came from the junk yard with a smashed in front end. My dad rebuilt it and painted it a gorgeous metallic midnight blue and in the evening light it seemed purple. I just loved it. But I became a pretty avid skier and needed to move on to a small SUV. Those were some good days with that Z car.
Last question, the rollable primer, can I use that at different times. Like if I want to do my door one day because it's off the car and my car the next day would that be okay or do I have to use it all at once
You can use it at different times, just only mix the 2 components in amounts that you're planning to use at that time. You can paint panel A on Thursday and Panel B on Friday you will just need to use a new roller/paint tray. We used the same gallon of OptiFlow on multiple projects.
Do I have to use a glaze coat? And does that coat go over the rollable primer? I also am doing my car in stages so the doors off the car and trunk. If I have bare metal before I even start body work on my car, Can I use the rolling primer kit multiple times at different times? I just dont want my parts to sit in baremetal for days until the whole car is ready for primer
You don't have to use glaze coat. If you get your body work straight and are happy with it while still in standard body filler you can move onto primer. Yes we stripped this car to bare metal, epoxy it for rust prevention and it acted as a guide coat. Then blocked the car in the areas that needed additional work and then applied body filler. Ideally you're not spreading filler on top of paint/primer unless it's a chip or something you missed right before paint. Yes you can use the OptiFlow kit at various time. For example one week you prep and prime your hood, the following week you could prime your door. You'll just mix the amount you need for the next job, and put on a fresh roller/tray.
Hi! What do you call that dolly for moving the frame? Positioning jack is the one that you put under each wheel, but can't find the name for this one that you use for moving just the frame. I vaguely remember that once I saw the model that allows you to turn the frame upside down, but not sure that it wasn't one of my would-be engineer dreams.
Mark built a custom body cart or buck for this car to make it moveable. We offer a Rotisserie which allows you 360 degree access to the vehicle: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-3000-lb-capacity-rotisserie.html
What size compressor are you using to paint this Datsun? And Wht do you think is the smallest compressor i can use to spray a couple fenders and a couple bumpers?
You're going to need to look at CFM requirements - and paint guns require a lot. For example our CC500 needs 9.5CFM at 30-40psi Inlet Air Pressure. Our recommendation would be the QST 30/60 which can maintain 12.7CFM at 90 psi and its super quiet. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-qst-30-60-scroll-air-compressor-with-quiet-technology.html
@@eastwoodco thanks , and wow 😮 I was hoping for a more cost efficient Dewalt, Craftsman, Milwaukee type of 20 gallons 200psi $500 regular air compressor/ that can also double as an all around the shop compressor to run an assorted power tools and pneumatic guns… but I guess it’s not going to be that simple… sheesh 😒
Great instruction! I’ve heard that polyester primers are porous and will absorb moisture. Not a good idea to let a project sit ? Is there a high build epoxy primer that will allow DYI users to work on and off a project car without fear of moisture? Thank you
All primer has porous properties to a degree but urethane would hold up better to working on a project panel by panel. Sprayable: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-urethane-primer-and-activator-gal-kit.html OptiFlow: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-optiflow-roll-on-urethane-primer-gallon-catalyst-kit.html
Great video im preping to do my Nissan 240sx s14, so i was also stoked to see a choice of a Datsun for demo! Hope to see you guys drop an RB in there haha!
Watch the "Cut In" section again at 7:45 to 13:26. You can blow the car apart and paint it all separate if you have the room and time to do so. You don't have to worry about taped edges that way but you need more room and booth cycles. If you're doing a two tone it gets complicated to match.
What color are you looking for? If you search by paint code instead of Year/Make/Model you may find what you're looking for. Example: F4 - Chrysler Lime Green - 1970 shows up
I think the most important is how you invest the tool at home. At least you have to get a high cfm compressor. You have nothing to do without it. Not much people will buy a over $800 compressor for home use right. What we looking for is to get decent result with tight compressor with decent price of paint gun.
There's no getting around need a compressor for base/clear. But you can still get your car all the way through primer and prepped for paint without the air compressor and that alone would be thousands in savings. Then either take to a local shop to spray OR rent tools for a weekend and finish the job.
Your video mentions an epoxy sealer coat as a final layer if desired. What reducer and percentage would you use to reduce the epoxy primer? Would you use the same epoxy primer?
Yesterday, my friend used a VERY GLOSSY professional clear coat on the hood of my car. It sticks like a sore thumb. The original paint is not so glossy. How can I fix it? Thanks
Painting a car isn’t that difficult , most of the time you don’t have to strip to bare metal , just sand with different grades, fix dents and apply good paint .
True, but with the price of materials, Id rather do more labor sanding to know for sure that nothing previously applied has any chance of affecting the completed job.
@@terrythomas790 it really depends on your budget , car , and time , for example I own a 1986 ford Mustang Capri , body is straight 8 out of 10 but paint is ugly , I was going to strip it to bare metal and apply the highest quality finish , but plans have changed I am moving out of the country , I can’t take it with me .
@@EivinSukoi Yeah, not worth it if you are moving, But , otherwise nothing wrong with doing it right the first time, and know whats under your new paint
We've had mixed results with the razor blade technique but if you're confident and that works for you, great! For the novice we'd suggest something like this if you want to go that route: www.eastwood.com/motorguard-run-razor-blocker-set.html
PAINT GUIDE: www.eastwood.com/paints/how-to-paint-a-car-at-home-easy-steps.html?+&+&+to+paint+a+car+at+home+guide
OEM PAINT: www.eastwood.com/paints/automotive-finishes/oem-select-paint-make-model-year-code-mixed.html?+&+&+to+paint+a+car+OEM+paint
CONTOUR DSB: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-contour-dsb-dustless-sanding-block-master-kit.html?+&+&+to+paint+a+car+contour+dsb
good video but if joe average thinks he can watch this video and have these results he is going to be dissappointed
@@MrWildwilly48 every great painter started out as an “average joe” , and “Wisdom is more valuable than knowledge” - the owners manual
Sir can i apply for q paiter to you
This "How to Paint a Car at Home" video did a wonderful job convincing me that I never want to paint a car at home. It's so easy! Just do these 400+ steps each of which really requires years of experience to get a decent outcome within a reasonable timeframe.
So go flush away $10 grand for some shop to do it. Perfect time to squander your savings
This is how to do a first class job! Most home jobs I would bet are done quicker with less steps. This video is daunting to me, too. I wanted a quicker and easier method. Oh well, I am wanting to do an old truck and not a classic. I still need to save up some funds and time for doing a passable job.
lol. if you would like me to send you some pic of my first paint job I will. the reason I did it was the shop wanted $8.000.00 and it cost me a little less BUT I can now do it and I will not charge you what your local shop will.
Because the actual title of the video should've been "how to discourage people into thinking painting at home is way more complicated than it is". Trust me, it doesn't take nearly as much effort, knowledge or equipment to paint a car decently at home.
This is to get a professional finish, what they don’t say is you could skip sanding steps throughout, also he does say you don’t have to buff. Definitely take your time with body filler but outside of that do what you can.
Ive been a house painter for a while now. Every other guy in my family is pretty much a mechanic and i wanna get into painting cars. Been looking for RUclips videos that do it the right way. Seems like most everyone is doing shortcut videos which i dont wanna do. Thanks for doing it the right way.
You're welcome! Good luck on your journey.
I recently paid $6700 to have my truck painted. I thought that was a high price, but after seeing everything that goes into painting a vehicle I won't complain anymore.
That's a really good price.
If they stripped it thats pretty good but if they just sand and painted it single stage thats pretty high.
I thought this video was going to be a hack, but these guys are pros!
Paint at home? Not me, not in my home, not with the amount of time and effort it took to get there 🤣🤣
That $6700 looks like a really good spend!
Я крашу авто за 2касаря.
@@garagepnkoof284 sorry dont read youre language
its so fun to read all the comments about how much work this is haha having worked in an autobody shop ill tell you these guys actully made it sound easier to me.
We try and be honest and make it approachable. Thanks for the comment.
You are definitely a straight forward guy. The way you described what, and how you completed each step was amazing! Your probably an amazing teacher! Project turned out amazing!
Thanks! We try and support the DIY person by being a reliable source of how-to information.
This is the video i was seaching for all these years man, finally showing how to go about it with the whole process!!!
These guys deserve 100 star per view, with detailed instruction and tips they added a pdf instructions. Thanks isn't enough
You're welcome! Hey if you love our detailed videos you can purchase some supplies from us so we can keep making content like this for you.
I took lots of notes and saved this to my YT library. I have the conditioning tool, roll on epoxy kit and watching every painting video that I can find on YT to get ready to paint my 1985 Jeep J10 pickup. Wish me luck because I am going to need it.
That's great! Tag us in some progress pics. We're confident if you take your time and go step by step you can tackle this project. It helps to break it into manageable steps so you don't have overwhelmed when your Jeeps in 1000 pieces and half metal. Keep us posted!
This is def a "saved" video for me that I use every time I question what I'm about to do or which step. All the information is very helpful for a DIYer. I appreciate the simplified explanation yet detailed information. Not a lot of useless information just straight through on what needs to be done to acheave a quality job. Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for your comment! That is our goal when making this kind of video.
Fantastic video! Mark has a way of giving confidence to do any job on a restoration! Been an Eastwood customer since the early 80s working on a 65 Corvair- wouldn't trust anyone else.
We love Mark!
Beautiful video. Beautiful editing and focus on products and procedures. Narration was on point!
Thank you so much!
I agree 100%
I just need to know if I should use Eastwood clear or finish 1? Which has the best uv protection for the Miami sun?
This video couldnt have come at a better time. Working on a 69 Mustang and planning to do paint myself. I had already been researching Eastwood for supplies and stumbled upon the PDF guide, but seeing it in action along with the “gotchas” made it way more accessible. Great resource.
Glad we could help!
At 6:00, a teachable mono ent as the fill has pulled away or feather edged. It looks pulled away that meaning it didn't stick due to sanding (Mechanical Tooth/Pressed hard into first application) or (Wasn't clean or fill had started to set up).
Any air sanding after the final coat of clear, is done with a finishing sander with 3/16" orbital action, and an intermediate foam pad and kept moving starting with 1/2" (13mm) thick intermediate foam pad with 1,000 grit. Do not use a regular DA sander if if you have sags, runs or nibs. Use a 2" wooden paint stir struck and fine paper like 800-1,200 grit to remove. Once complete there finish sanders are also sold at HF, so look at specs. A regular DA Sander has a 1/4" orbital action normal sanding. Still, look for a palm sander with 3/16" orbital action being sold under specs.
ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Just bought an inflatable booth to paint my Acura tsx thanks!!
Looks amazing. So much dedication, and craftsmanship.
I had a Mazda 3 as this colour. In twilight, misty rain, it became invisible on the roads, unless I put my lights on. So many crashes, were 'they' just didn't see her.
Thank you!
Really great video, most people don’t understand why getting their car painted cost so much. This is truly art. Watching these videos really motivates me in what I do .
Thanks for the comment! Yes it's a bunch of work, that's why breaking it into manageable steps is so important!
If you need all that work at the end to fix runs and debris then I'm paying someone else because a "pro" shouldn't be having those problems in the first place.
@@Omniverse0 That pro, might have spent the prior night drinking, and isnt really focused. Or doesnt like his job, and really doesnt care, because it isnt his car. ,etc. This is why I try to do everything I can myself. Not knocking all pros, but "pros" arent always perfect. Thats with any profession, Take a close look at a newly built home. You will see many flaws if you know what to look for. The average Joe wouldnt know the difference. Ive seen freshly, pro painted collision repairs where the colors dont match, or they dont blend into an adjacent panel, and that makes the new painted repair stick out like a sore thumb. But you paid Pro labor rates for whatever you end up with.
This amazing art work….patience of saints….. looks fantastic… better than new ❤
i bought your fender roller and it's badass. I decided to spend the extra money over the cheap-o $50 rollers on Amazon because I enjoy good quality and durability, even though it will probably be a long time before I ever use it again. You've certainly earned my trust! Now it's time for sanding and primer.
That's great! We're stoked to be helping you with your build.
Saved!!! Been using many Eastwood products on my restomod and I’m almost ready for step 1 hear. Will definitely follow these steps. Can’t wait to start!
That's awesome, we love to hear it! Good luck on the project.
Excellent video. Addresses all the basic questions and concerns a 1st timer would have.
Awesome, thank you!
So well put together and to the point, bravo! Gives me inspiration for my Z project when the paint process comes along.....
Thanks! Good luck on your project.
O my God so many steps and procedures to go through for 100% perfection. This car paint job looks extremely beautiful.
It is a lot of work, but that's why it's KEY to break it into manageable steps instead of getting overwhelmed by the scope of the project. Following these steps YOU too can get a great paint job.
Paint a car
Procedure after primer dried
Block with 180, 320, and then finish with 600 grit. Blow off, clean, and tape up for paint.
I was feeling brave and eager to paint my own Car... after seeing this I'm backing away from the idea and rather pay an expert for the job... tbh I'm not feeling confident nor skilled enough. Thanks for the video such and eye opener on what goes behind the scenes.
Amazing editing too. Kudos!
Ah well that's not what we like to hear!
It IS an in depth process and it takes some time. That's why we break it into more bite-size steps so you don't get overwhelmed with the entire process.
But thank you for the compliments! If nothing else you can do your body, work, get it into primer using OptiFlow and then hand it off for final paint if you don't feel comfortable. It will still save you THOUSANDS.
Beautiful job, guy's. Perfection takes a lot of work. Thumbs up on this paint work.
Drop coat is most important with metallic as your trying to get the metallic to stand up and shine when clear is applied with out dark dead patches along the panel
Thanks for the video, I'm busy with my 1958 MG Magnette, my arms are falling off block sanding is heavy work lol. The part that worries me is having the right place to do the spray job and an extractor fan system and dust prevention and and and...that's the issue most home DIY spraypainters face. To have the proper environment to paint the car and for it to dry without bugs, dust, overspray etc. Looks like I will now have to make a tempory spray booth!
I’m getting ready to do my first driveway paint job feeling confident after watching your videos
How did it go
@ it’s in the body work stage
@@AngelRamirez-yk9ix nice. Keep it up. I want to start doing jobs at home but I’m nervous with the painting process outside of a shop. Please keep me updated on any tips lol once you finish your project
Thank you the clear and thorough explanation of all the step, settings and materials involved.
You're welcome! Good luck on your project!
this is a great guide! very clean and professional, and even adressing ways to fix mistakes
Great video! You guys know what you're doing!
I loved the series with Kevin Tetz doing the Camaro. He's a fellow British Columbia boy, so that's what sold me on Eastwood products.
Step 1: have a big, clean garage with lots of tools
Step 2: have a great car to start with
Step 3: have a LOT of money for parts and supplies
Step 4: have plenty of time to work
Well Car, time, and tools are definitely going to be needed for any project. This car was a basket case when we got it. It got new door skins, lower 1/4 panels, and a ton of metal work. As far as money our step-by-step process will save you THOUSANDS over dropping it off at a shop.
I'm not painting a car, but watched this video for fun on my day off lol. Very relaxing and good video.
Glad you liked it! Stay tuned we'll have another similar video coming out this Saturday!
I'm not sure why a lot of online painter say you don't/can't block epoxy primer, I followed Marks info and it came out great. I assume it's because they mean you can't block it when it first dries, you DO have to wait a couple three days then it blocks like they did in the video.
Great work and appreciate the step by step process. One thing I wish you showed more was how you handled things like those deep inset headlight areas. Obviously that is a hand sand area, and probably hand cut/buff as well. Curious if you followed the same process and if you had any backer to your sand paper and such.
Yes for those tight areas the standard tools don't reach in we worked by hand. You can use a soft block as a backer, or fold the paper on itself. For cutting and buffing the real move is to make sure they come out glossy the first time. You'd maybe be able to get a 3" buffer in there but it would be tight.
@@eastwoodco Put any rotating tool in the tight area, and if you catch an edge of new paint, F bombs are sure to fly!! Always have a rotating pad turn off of an edge, not into it! You'll learn quick if you did it wrong.
I’m working on my 68 c10 paint job that has 3 coats of different paint jobs and This is the video I was looking for very explainable your video gave me more hype on doing it myself I know I won’t get perfect but I’ll learn from it
That's the spirit! Nothing more satisfying then see your hard work pay off. It's hard to get anything perfect but you can be proud of your results just the same.
Awesome!!! Just what i needed as i tackle my 53 GMC. Very informative and i'll be downloading the pdf. Thanks for putting this out!
Good luck, send us some pictures when you're done!
Amazing video, great edits.
However the only thing that makes the hair on my back stick up is wet sanding and buffing after only 2 coats of clear. This is extremely sketchy on a user error stand point (burn throughs) and also a durability stand point. To low of a film thickness with the clear and it will peel sooner than later
Depends on what clear if you're using a 2 to one high solid expensive clear you get 40 percent urethane a 4 to 1 maby 20 percent urethane cheaper but you need 4 coats to get the same build up . I wouldn't trust 4to1 much about 3 to 5 years. But its easier to spray. Thunder road auto body i use 2 to 1 matrix 3 coats.
@@rogerstephens8980 yea good point 2 coats of a high solids might be ok. Personally I do about 3-4 coats of high solids if I plan to cut and buff.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I used to use ppg until I had some cars start peeling and it darkened youre blend on light colors there ppg s solution was to only put 1 coat of clear on youre blend. I don't use ppg any more.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I am having trouble getting the matrix 2 t01 I use another on didn'tike it much what do you use . Ther is a shortage of urethane because the government created a shortage of oil.
You need 2 mil to prevent burn through. I guess Eastwood clear is so cheap you can easily put 3-4 coats if you plan to cut and compound? What do you think of finish 1?
Love the roll on epoxy
Inspired by this, Eastwood😮 TYVM 😎💯👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
A S30 Z. Perfect car to show!
So, when doing a complete color change, and you're having to take the vehicle apart for other repair/upgrade items, is it best to paint the pieces individually and then reassemble, or to paint the car all at once, fully assembled?
That's a choice you can make based on booth space, timeline, etc. We did cut in first, re-assembled, then paint the car. It's one less step if you can paint the car "blown apart" because you won't need to sand off the over spray on the body and re-tape the car.
But you also need a bigger booth and/or more time to do several booth sessions. We have several more paintjob video's coming that will show alternate methods.
I like to take my hood and fenders off and lay them down so the parts are horizontal because if you spray a little thick its easier to get the thick spots clean
no way you used a z32 chasis for panel overlap example. lmfao, im watching this to learn to paint my freshly body worked 300zx z32..... universe is wild... thanks for info. desperately needed all in one spot. bad ass!
This is the perfect video. Wanting to paint my 57 Chevy when the bodywork is done. This shows me how. I love this video. Questions though. What exactly is a wet coat or a dry coat and what is the difference between the two? Heard them all my life but never saw the difference. Thank you for this great video.
Lets go in application order. A "Dry" coat is sprayed on and will have limited gloss, low reflection, and will flash quickly.
A "wet" coat is applied heavier, will immediately be glossy, and will have longer flash time. It's how you want the clear to look when you're finished.
Grab the guide here including a glossary of terms :www.eastwood.com/images/library/Eastwood-How-to-Paint-a-Car-color_June2023.pdf
@@eastwoodco Thank you. Been looking for that answer for a long time.
Amazing! Thank you for sharing this informative video. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
Our pleasure!
Excellent job! This is on the My Mechanics level, who, by the way, is in the process of restoring a 240Z as well and just prepped his for painting. I'm curious to see if there are many differences in technique. Keep up the amazing work!!
Inspirational and motivational, thank you! 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it!
These videos are great education for everyone, thanks👌
That's what we love to hear! We're happy to be a resource for you!
great video i could watch these over and over
Great job and video❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Glad you liked it!
I did a single stage polyurethane in my garage on my Toyota pickup...I wish I would've spent more time on body filler and glaze or whatever...I could've spent WAY more time on the body work, but it went from a 1/10 paint job to about a 4.5/10 paint job. 😂😂😂 Im gonna do my other pickup next but do WAY more body work and paint with a 2 stage. hopefully I'll get it 5/10 🤣
You made this look easy.😁
At 7:36 it is mentioned that the primer should get sanded down to 600 grit OR sealed, does that mean if your using sealer, you do not need to sand down the primer to 600 grit but if your skipping the sealer, you do need to sand down to 600? But on the car, it showed you sanding to 600 and still sealing it?
You need to get the car to 600 grit before applying base, single stage, or sealer.
This is the step by step detail I needed. What a GREAT video
Glad it was helpful!
Le carrossier est très très très très fort super boulot j'apprécie beaucoup très grand merci à vous monsieur
Thanks for the comment! Mark did a great job on the car.
Merci pour le commentaire! Mark a fait un excellent travail sur la voiture.
Appriciate u r hard work and knowledge
Omgsh I may try to ain't my truck this will take a lot of time patience at the least I should try doing jams fenderwells then possibly hand off to Macco need to watch this couple more times then download paint guide however that looked so amazing would be fun learning that so nice to see those imperfections then corre tions might be hope for me thanks for video hope your well
Thanks for the comment. Yes it is a lot of work but when you break it out into individual steps it's much more manageable. Sounds like you have a good plan - let us know how it goes!
This video is very clear and helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I'm trying to learn from the videos ..thank yall ..we didn't have you tube bk then
You are so welcome
The best explanation so far in painting a car
We're happy to help!
I have no idea why this came up in my feed, but I did a double look. I had a 260Z in 1982/83 for many years. My dad was a welder by trade and did numerous car repairs, paint jobs, rebuilds, etc. My Z car came from the junk yard with a smashed in front end. My dad rebuilt it and painted it a gorgeous metallic midnight blue and in the evening light it seemed purple. I just loved it. But I became a pretty avid skier and needed to move on to a small SUV. Those were some good days with that Z car.
Last question, the rollable primer, can I use that at different times. Like if I want to do my door one day because it's off the car and my car the next day would that be okay or do I have to use it all at once
You can use it at different times, just only mix the 2 components in amounts that you're planning to use at that time. You can paint panel A on Thursday and Panel B on Friday you will just need to use a new roller/paint tray. We used the same gallon of OptiFlow on multiple projects.
I own many Eastwood tools and the mpi250 welder keep up good work
This was the best tutorial ever made!
Awesome video!
Do I have to use a glaze coat? And does that coat go over the rollable primer? I also am doing my car in stages so the doors off the car and trunk. If I have bare metal before I even start body work on my car, Can I use the rolling primer kit multiple times at different times? I just dont want my parts to sit in baremetal for days until the whole car is ready for primer
You don't have to use glaze coat. If you get your body work straight and are happy with it while still in standard body filler you can move onto primer.
Yes we stripped this car to bare metal, epoxy it for rust prevention and it acted as a guide coat. Then blocked the car in the areas that needed additional work and then applied body filler. Ideally you're not spreading filler on top of paint/primer unless it's a chip or something you missed right before paint.
Yes you can use the OptiFlow kit at various time. For example one week you prep and prime your hood, the following week you could prime your door. You'll just mix the amount you need for the next job, and put on a fresh roller/tray.
14:22 3M makes a semi rigid squeegee we use to quickly remove the water during wet sanding.
Hi!
What do you call that dolly for moving the frame? Positioning jack is the one that you put under each wheel, but can't find the name for this one that you use for moving just the frame. I vaguely remember that once I saw the model that allows you to turn the frame upside down, but not sure that it wasn't one of my would-be engineer dreams.
Mark built a custom body cart or buck for this car to make it moveable. We offer a Rotisserie which allows you 360 degree access to the vehicle: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-3000-lb-capacity-rotisserie.html
@@eastwoodco thanks!
You're welcome! We also have DO have a body cart - but it doesn't offer 360 rotation: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-body-cart.html
Hahahaha that is a bit of understatement "You can do this at home". Excellent video about an insane number of process steps.
This is what I needed to watch
What type gun is used in this video … HVLP or LVLP? Thanks and awesome video!
What size compressor are you using to paint this Datsun? And Wht do you think is the smallest compressor i can use to spray a couple fenders and a couple bumpers?
You're going to need to look at CFM requirements - and paint guns require a lot. For example our CC500 needs 9.5CFM at 30-40psi Inlet Air Pressure. Our recommendation would be the QST 30/60 which can maintain 12.7CFM at 90 psi and its super quiet.
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-qst-30-60-scroll-air-compressor-with-quiet-technology.html
@@eastwoodco thanks , and wow 😮 I was hoping for a more cost efficient Dewalt, Craftsman, Milwaukee type of 20 gallons 200psi $500 regular air compressor/ that can also double as an all around the shop compressor to run an assorted power tools and pneumatic guns… but I guess it’s not going to be that simple… sheesh 😒
what do you do with the overspray when it fills up the neighbors yard ????
Hope they are nice and buy them a 12 pack of their favorite beverages.
youre not funny at all
Great video, I really enjoyed this even thought it's not my usual viewing choice.
Great to hear!
Great instruction! I’ve heard that polyester primers are porous and will absorb moisture. Not a good idea to let a project sit ?
Is there a high build epoxy primer that will allow DYI users to work on and off a project car without fear of moisture? Thank you
All primer has porous properties to a degree but urethane would hold up better to working on a project panel by panel.
Sprayable: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-urethane-primer-and-activator-gal-kit.html
OptiFlow: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-optiflow-roll-on-urethane-primer-gallon-catalyst-kit.html
Great video
I like this video !
Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for putting out that awesome content
Im surprised no one thought of that sanding block before. Genius idea.
Too Incredible!!
Great video im preping to do my Nissan 240sx s14, so i was also stoked to see a choice of a Datsun for demo! Hope to see you guys drop an RB in there haha!
We've been pushing him towards an LS but excited to see it driving down the road no matter the engine choice!
@@eastwoodco an LS would be sick too, but such a nice long engine bay suits and I6 so nicely lol.
Great video and presentation. I love the color. What is the OEM Paint code?
The color is Alfa 319B Grigio Antracite M.
Year 2010/2015
Chip M7-0633.1
Looks fabulous.
Outstanding video, you had panels removed would there be advantage to painting them off the car?
Watch the "Cut In" section again at 7:45 to 13:26. You can blow the car apart and paint it all separate if you have the room and time to do so. You don't have to worry about taped edges that way but you need more room and booth cycles. If you're doing a two tone it gets complicated to match.
You don’t have my color available for 1970 dodge dart. Can these products be used with other paint manufacturers?
What color are you looking for? If you search by paint code instead of Year/Make/Model you may find what you're looking for.
Example: F4 - Chrysler Lime Green - 1970 shows up
I think the most important is how you invest the tool at home. At least you have to get a high cfm compressor. You have nothing to do without it. Not much people will buy a over $800 compressor for home use right. What we looking for is to get decent result with tight compressor with decent price of paint gun.
There's no getting around need a compressor for base/clear. But you can still get your car all the way through primer and prepped for paint without the air compressor and that alone would be thousands in savings.
Then either take to a local shop to spray OR rent tools for a weekend and finish the job.
As a novice ,this was very clear.
I'm glad you found the video helpful, even as a novice! Keep watching and learning, and you'll become an expert in no time.
What kind of inflatable paint booth is this? Please provide link
We can do even better - here's a full review of it: ruclips.net/video/D4aWrS3afio/видео.htmlsi=vLQ09CsFTIiRHgfH links in description
@@eastwoodco thanks man
Awesome thank you! I want to learn how to paint cars and start my own business
You can do it!
fantastic video!! what paint code was used?
Yes paint color please
You went above and beyond what any body shop would do
Well our goal is to show you the right way, if you want to modify the steps or don't think they're necessary that's up to you.
Your video mentions an epoxy sealer coat as a final layer if desired. What reducer and percentage would you use to reduce the epoxy primer? Would you use the same epoxy primer?
Watch at 7:18, It's the epoxy reduced a further 20%
@@eastwoodcounderstood but what product was used to reduce the 20 percent?
One of these depending on temperature: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-slow-medium-fast-urethane-reducers-qts.html
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing 👌🏻😎
Yesterday, my friend used a VERY GLOSSY professional clear coat on the hood of my car. It sticks like a sore thumb. The original paint is not so glossy. How can I fix it?
Thanks
Is tjere a odourless car paint? Im.planning to re paint my car this summer in my backyard.❤
Any automotive paint will have a smell. It's a combination of chemicals that flash off/dry and in the process release odor.
Perfection! 💯👌🏼
Loved your presentation. Very nice job!
Thank you so much!
Painting a car isn’t that difficult , most of the time you don’t have to strip to bare metal , just sand with different grades, fix dents and apply good paint .
True, but with the price of materials, Id rather do more labor sanding to know for sure that nothing previously applied has any chance of affecting the completed job.
@@terrythomas790 it really depends on your budget , car , and time , for example I own a 1986 ford Mustang Capri , body is straight 8 out of 10 but paint is ugly , I was going to strip it to bare metal and apply the highest quality finish , but plans have changed I am moving out of the country , I can’t take it with me .
@@EivinSukoi Yeah, not worth it if you are moving, But , otherwise nothing wrong with doing it right the first time, and know whats under your new paint
well that's my one of two dream car over there 😍🔥
Great video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
For runs you use razorblade to top down first ( sickle method )
We've had mixed results with the razor blade technique but if you're confident and that works for you, great!
For the novice we'd suggest something like this if you want to go that route:
www.eastwood.com/motorguard-run-razor-blocker-set.html