Im getting ready to paint a truck tomorrow. Ive got done steps 1-3, now to just find a professional painter and a professional paint booth to complete step 4. Thanks guys!!! This was super helpful for us DIY guys
We had our pro step in to show you how to do the job correctly, that doesn't mean you shouldn't try yourself. Booth wise - we've sprayed in a blow up booth, a garage with plastic on the walls, and a downdraft pro booth - use the best you have available. Our goal is to show you the correct way to do your project, you can make adjustments based on your personal circumstance.
Guys in the comments are brutal. I learned the basic steps from this video and also what products to use and the sequence of application. Im a heavy equipment operator just trying to learn how to get it done to flip some cars on the side. With that being said, thank you!
We're always impressed with how many people are Master Welders and Painters in the comments as well! This is intended as a guide, it's the steps we used on this car, and we got great results! Thanks for the feedback.
Being anonymous on the internet produces a lot of bravado with no manners. I too learn how to do things I haven’t done before by reviewing content like this.
We show setting up and spraying sealer in our inflatable booth - the process is the same from there whether in the Down Draft at a shop or inflatable at home.
@@eastwoodco the video isn't without value for sure, but is the expectation that a "home" painter have an inflatable booth now? That bar is pretty high.
Yes but you missed the point , at home folks would want to see at home results from a garage setup. Painting in a booth just takes away from the literal title.
Yeah, if you want to spend all that money. I can't even count all the little dings and scratches I pick up over the years on my vehicles. Just not worth even having them painted. Just imagine spending all that money and then a year later you've got new scratches in several spots.
I save guitar strings for removal of glued items even glass. High e and b strings are smooth, the other strings have ridges that help cut but may be too thick for some applications.
Great stuff, I’ll probably be trying out that roll on primer given the convenience factor. Wanted to mention for removing stubborn trim and emblems a heat gun makes easier work of it.
Cool vid. Not Ford's best Mustang design, but it is what it is. I absolutely would have taken the trunk cargo strips off and left any body molding off and filled the holes. This car could have been turned into a nice muscle car, which all Mustangs should be.
This was a great video. One thing I have a question about is the body filler step. I have seen a lot of resources recommending to apply epoxy, and then apply body filler, and then re-apply epoxy over the body filler areas before then applying urethane? Is this step unnecessary when the fast etch is used?
When using body filler it can be applied over sanded epoxy primer OR bare metal with great adhesion to both. After you have the filler blocked and straight you can then apply another coat of epoxy or jump to urethane - it's a bit about preference. A production body shop will typically just use 2-3 coats of urethane and then move onto top coats while a restoration shop would do epoxy, then urethane, then top coats. As for fast etch - it's used on bare metal that has pitting or flash rust like the front of the hood on this mustang. So the steps would be sand/grind down to bare metal, apply fast etch to convert any rust and prevent it from coming back, then primer.
epoxy primer first, it will seal the metal and prevent moisture from getting under the body filler on non epoxied surfaces, its one of the main reasons body filler will crack or bust off. always epoxy primer first!!!!!
This car took about about a month of work time from start to finish. It probably could have been like 2-3 weeks if we weren't filming ourselves while performing the work.
It looks like there were still all kinds of little rust spots on that hood. Did you just paint right over that stuff? I'd be interested in seeing the car 10 years down the road.
There's no longer rust on the hood. The Fast-Etch converts the rust to iron phosphate which is stable and we top coat from there. This WASN"T done before which is probably why the hood looked how it did.
A lot of people complain that the inflatable booths don’t exhaust the over spray fast enough. I’m assuming that’s why they took this car into a pro paint booth.
We actually moved because we ran out of time that day but yes the inflatable booth doesn't exhaust as fast as a a down draft. The only time it's been an excessive problem was when painting the Shelby Cobra project we also did.
Guys, I don't understand one thing. Why did you recommend to use roll-on paint system for the primer if eventually you painted car usual spray system?(sorry for my English).
We used our OptiFlow System to show that all the way up to painting basecoat/clear you can do this without needing a spray booth. It's just another option that will work for the DIY guy. Obviously they can spray traditional primer instead.
These steps will work for any vehicle. If you're doing a color change instead of a re-spray you'll need to decide whether to address jambs or not and fully seal the car before spraying base coat.
@ Thank you for sharing your video with us. I will do the project. Can you tell me what number of sandpaper you use to start and to finish? When you finish the base coat, how long does it take to apply the clear coat? Thank you for your time.
Re watch the video we list out all of the sandpaper grits as we go: 80, 180, 320, 600. When you spray base coat after it's fully covered it needs to flash off (about 20 minutes) and you can apply clear coat.
You should purchase a compressor based on whichever tool has the highest CFM demands. This will most likely be your DA Sander or Paint Gun. The QST is up to the challenge for all of your air needs, and it's super quiet: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-qst-30-60-scroll-air-compressor-with-quiet-technology.html
The paint was cracked and porous which allowed a small amount of water to work it's way to the hood metal. It's not uncommon on 30+ year old paint jobs.
Hi great video, I’m repainting my vw t5 van along with an engine swap and facelift to t6.1, do I need to use a plastic primer promoter for the bumpers if I’m changing the colour not painting from new? Their pure grey but I’m changing to a Porsche color
Few years ago i painted my mustang and made the mistake of using a single stage without putting a clear coat, needless to say in texas sun it oxidizes easily. I planing to repaint using 2 stage this time. Originally i had to strip it down to bare single i had badly cracked paint and surface rust. So after i put epoxy primer, then a 2k filler primer, seal primer then layed down the single stage color. It came out very good. Now my question is when i do repaint with 2 stage should i take it back down to metal or can i scuff it, fixed couple minor spots then prime and do my color and clear? Or should i do it another way?
The thing you're going to want to consider is mil thickness. If it just has the single stage on it currently you could spot repair, scuff with 600 on a DA and spray. If it is has factory paint, plus a single stage paint, and THEN you want to coat again it's getting borderline of needing to strip again.
@@eastwoodco Thanks. I had to strip the original paint because of clear coat failure that caused the paint to crack all the way thru to the metal that then caused surface rust to pop up in those cracks. So its just epoxy primer and single stage.
We used the P500 and CC500 for this project. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-primer-hvlp-paint-gun.html www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-color-and-clearcoat-hvlp-paint-gun.html
All of our paints are going to handle normal weather as well as factory paint. We'd suggest our OEM Select Base Coat to match your factory color and show Car 4:1 clear. Primer/Sealer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-epoxy-primer-gallon.html Basecoat: www.eastwood.com/oempaint/selecting/yearbrandmake Clear: www.eastwood.com/4-1-premium-show-clear-kit-5-quarts.html
No hate, I like the video and learned from it, but the original title of the video was definitely misleading. "How to repaint a car at home"... Then takes the car to professional with a booth. I'd like to see a genuine garage paint job, like all of us doing this at home would actually have. This would also give you the opportunity to talk about methods for removing dust nibs from clear, etc. Just a thought. Great instructions as always though!
Sorry! We sometimes workshop titles when releasing videos. We discuss those steps you're asking about in this video: ruclips.net/video/BfNHnTg4lLg/видео.htmlsi=MM67RkesnPUdRHwk&t=808
Which part are you asking on price? Materials wise? You'll need _at least_ a gallon of primer, 1 gallon of base coat, and 1 gallon of clear coat. Plus sand paper, masking paper, tape, etc. Gallon of urethane primer/hardener: 175.98 www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-urethane-primer-and-activator-gal-kit.html Gallon of Teal Ocean Metallic (very similar to color in video): 88.98 www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4-1-teal-ocean-metallic-basecoat-128oz.html Basecoat activator: 69.99 www.eastwood.com/ew-low-voc-urethane-activator-qt-medium.html Clear coat and hardener: 263.98 www.eastwood.com/4-1-premium-show-clear-kit-5-quarts.html Total: $598.93 as of today for top coats.
What abbreviations do you need clarification on? We used the Contour SCT (Surface Conditioning Tool) to strip the hood if that's what you're referring to.
Everything in this video can be done in a home garage up to the actual spraying of the car. We've used inflatable booths in the past which is an at Home DIY solution. Use whatever method you have access too.
If you've NEVER done this. Consult an actual body man. You'll waste so much time if you don't. Eastwood has some good stuff, sure. Best body filler by miles is 3M Platinum Plus. Best dent repair and metal straightening is.. Best done by a body man. We'll help you, but it's best you just let us do it for you if you want good results.
We're here to empower the DIY community to tackle these projects themselves not to drop it off and have someone tell them "let us do it for you". Part of the pride of having a custom vehicle is knowing the hard work that went into it and being proud of the results. We outline in this video the steps that can be taken to repaint your ride - and it CAN be done by anyone with patience and a plan.
why did you use epoxy primer, then urethane primer, then an epoxy sealer all before the base. Just seems a like a lot, also I have very little knowledge of painting.
Epoxy primer has really good adhesion to bare metal, urethane has decent build and fill qualities, the epoxy sealer is optional but our painter Ray preferred it as it makes everything nice and uniform and is a final chance to address micro scratches.
My original Fox Mustang in much better shape and all original paint, but need some panels addressed. These cars were shot from factory in single stage most colors, so dont ruin this car with base coat and clear, unless your painting entire car and want the benefits of that.
I don't think we can agree that painting something with a longer lasting, higher quality finish is _ruining_ the car. But as you mentioned this mustang's paint was in pretty rough shape and needed to be redone.
We applied epoxy *primer* then blocked it, then applied urethane primer and blocked it. We discuss this in the video as this is our work flow but production shops will often just use urethane and move on. Please watch the video fully.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
OEM PAINT: www.eastwood.com/paints/automotive-finishes/oem-select-paint-make-model-year-code-mixed.html?+&+&+to+repaint+a+car+OEM+paint
CONTOUR DSB: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-contour-dsb-dustless-sanding-block-master-kit.html?+&+&+to+repaint+a+car+contour+dsb
Im getting ready to paint a truck tomorrow. Ive got done steps 1-3, now to just find a professional painter and a professional paint booth to complete step 4. Thanks guys!!! This was super helpful for us DIY guys
We had our pro step in to show you how to do the job correctly, that doesn't mean you shouldn't try yourself. Booth wise - we've sprayed in a blow up booth, a garage with plastic on the walls, and a downdraft pro booth - use the best you have available.
Our goal is to show you the correct way to do your project, you can make adjustments based on your personal circumstance.
It really is this easy it’s the prep that’s the real work
Absolutely a paint job is 95% prep and 5% spraying.
Guys in the comments are brutal. I learned the basic steps from this video and also what products to use and the sequence of application. Im a heavy equipment operator just trying to learn how to get it done to flip some cars on the side. With that being said, thank you!
We're always impressed with how many people are Master Welders and Painters in the comments as well! This is intended as a guide, it's the steps we used on this car, and we got great results! Thanks for the feedback.
Yes I'm also a mechanic and people are so critical. The video also helped me learn the proper steps of painting.
Being anonymous on the internet produces a lot of bravado with no manners. I too learn how to do things I haven’t done before by reviewing content like this.
How to repaint at home. Step 4, take it to a painter. Nice
Lol right?
We show setting up and spraying sealer in our inflatable booth - the process is the same from there whether in the Down Draft at a shop or inflatable at home.
@@eastwoodco the video isn't without value for sure, but is the expectation that a "home" painter have an inflatable booth now? That bar is pretty high.
Yes but you missed the point , at home folks would want to see at home results from a garage setup. Painting in a booth just takes away from the literal title.
Yeah, if you want to spend all that money. I can't even count all the little dings and scratches I pick up over the years on my vehicles. Just not worth even having them painted. Just imagine spending all that money and then a year later you've got new scratches in several spots.
Lots of good info. Thank you for helping out the garage painters
I save guitar strings for removal of glued items even glass. High e and b strings are smooth, the other strings have ridges that help cut but may be too thick for some applications.
Great idea
Nice one
Wow, Ray really knows his stuff! He made it happen. You should've had that pro do the whole thing.
We love working with Pro's. Ray did a great job.
Awesome video. When my car is ready, I'll be checking out several of these videos. Thanks for sharing.
Considering the spec called for it's a nice job
ironic seeing this given I have a 92 lx droptop I need to repaint. Salute to you guys!
Hey send us pictures when you do!
Great stuff, I’ll probably be trying out that roll on primer given the convenience factor. Wanted to mention for removing stubborn trim and emblems a heat gun makes easier work of it.
Nice, please let us know what you think!
So, I'm actually a diesel mechanic by trade but getting into full restorations! Just wanted to say thanks for all your videos! Perfect for a beginner
We're glad you like them!
Thanks for showing this! I may give that roll on primer a try!
Please do! We love it!
I did my car with the roll-on high-build primer,and it's totally worth it IMHO.
Chris Fix has great video showing exactly how to do this
Clear guitar string is best to use to remove labels and weather stripping. Guitar string is way more stronger than fishing line.
That would have been an excellent idea. We'l note that for next time.
Love you stuff Eastwood. Thank you for sharing your knowlage in this video.
Thanks for the feedback! Good Luck on your proejcts!
💛Thank you.This Very nice paint.👍😀👍
Thanks
Awesome! 👌🏽
Thanks! 😁
Cool vid. Not Ford's best Mustang design, but it is what it is. I absolutely would have taken the trunk cargo strips off and left any body molding off and filled the holes. This car could have been turned into a nice muscle car, which all Mustangs should be.
Great video
Thank you!
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
That's a very good job well done. I am a body painter but my question is why when spring a car paint can always world down?
Just because.
Thanks for these videos.
Glad you like them!
That roll on primer is super cool. Any chance a roll on base and clear system will ever be available?
We have always wanted to do roll on single stage that you could then cut and buff.
@ I’ll buy it when you guys make it 👍🏻
Thank you for this vid
You're welcome.
This was a great video. One thing I have a question about is the body filler step. I have seen a lot of resources recommending to apply epoxy, and then apply body filler, and then re-apply epoxy over the body filler areas before then applying urethane? Is this step unnecessary when the fast etch is used?
When using body filler it can be applied over sanded epoxy primer OR bare metal with great adhesion to both. After you have the filler blocked and straight you can then apply another coat of epoxy or jump to urethane - it's a bit about preference. A production body shop will typically just use 2-3 coats of urethane and then move onto top coats while a restoration shop would do epoxy, then urethane, then top coats.
As for fast etch - it's used on bare metal that has pitting or flash rust like the front of the hood on this mustang. So the steps would be sand/grind down to bare metal, apply fast etch to convert any rust and prevent it from coming back, then primer.
epoxy primer first, it will seal the metal and prevent moisture from getting under the body filler on non epoxied surfaces, its one of the main reasons body filler will crack or bust off. always epoxy primer first!!!!!
That’s my favorite fox body color. Calypso green I think it’s called 🤩
Yessir! It's a fun color and came out great!
How did you get the moldings back on to look like new when they were all shriveled up and warped
They're new moldings - you can see them at 14:04
Great video! How long do you think it took from start to finish?
This car took about about a month of work time from start to finish. It probably could have been like 2-3 weeks if we weren't filming ourselves while performing the work.
What do you use to grind off the paint and rust? I see that it is an air-tool, but what is the disk composed of? What grit composition?
Contour SCT - www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html
How much you cost for whole?
It looks like there were still all kinds of little rust spots on that hood. Did you just paint right over that stuff? I'd be interested in seeing the car 10 years down the road.
There's no longer rust on the hood. The Fast-Etch converts the rust to iron phosphate which is stable and we top coat from there. This WASN"T done before which is probably why the hood looked how it did.
hold on so self etch primer and epoxy? that things coming back in a year
A lot of people complain that the inflatable booths don’t exhaust the over spray fast enough. I’m assuming that’s why they took this car into a pro paint booth.
We actually moved because we ran out of time that day but yes the inflatable booth doesn't exhaust as fast as a a down draft. The only time it's been an excessive problem was when painting the Shelby Cobra project we also did.
Guys, I don't understand one thing. Why did you recommend to use roll-on paint system for the primer if eventually you painted car usual spray system?(sorry for my English).
We used our OptiFlow System to show that all the way up to painting basecoat/clear you can do this without needing a spray booth. It's just another option that will work for the DIY guy. Obviously they can spray traditional primer instead.
Hey bro can I do this repaint job in a Barcelona red pearl metallic color too ? Lmk thanks 🙏
These steps will work for any vehicle. If you're doing a color change instead of a re-spray you'll need to decide whether to address jambs or not and fully seal the car before spraying base coat.
@ Thank you for sharing your video with us.
I will do the project. Can you tell me what number of sandpaper you use to start and to finish? When you finish the base coat, how long does it take to apply the clear coat? Thank you for your time.
Re watch the video we list out all of the sandpaper grits as we go: 80, 180, 320, 600. When you spray base coat after it's fully covered it needs to flash off (about 20 minutes) and you can apply clear coat.
@ thanks bro
how long it will take to get car from garage after painting
We pulled this out of the booth about an hour after finishing clear coat.
Will that roll-on primer work on fiberglass Corvette body?
Yes! Both the epoxy and urethane have great adhesion to fiberglass.
Which one would you recommend. I need all the advice I can get. I just started trying to restore 67 Corvette. Also enjoy watching all your videos.
ok well I don't have these kind of tools so next video please
So after you seal it you still have to avoid it?
We don't really understand your question. Once you apply sealer you can top coat with base/clear shortly after.
What size of compressor is recommended for this kind of work (all stages)?
You should purchase a compressor based on whichever tool has the highest CFM demands. This will most likely be your DA Sander or Paint Gun.
The QST is up to the challenge for all of your air needs, and it's super quiet: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-qst-30-60-scroll-air-compressor-with-quiet-technology.html
How come there was rust underneath the paint of the hood if there wasn't like any chipping of just faded or how did I rust get underneath the hood
The paint was cracked and porous which allowed a small amount of water to work it's way to the hood metal. It's not uncommon on 30+ year old paint jobs.
Hi great video, I’m repainting my vw t5 van along with an engine swap and facelift to t6.1, do I need to use a plastic primer promoter for the bumpers if I’m changing the colour not painting from new? Their pure grey but I’m changing to a Porsche color
No you should be fine as you'll be painting over paint/primer. When painting brand new plastic bumpers they need adhesion promoter and a seal coat.
Few years ago i painted my mustang and made the mistake of using a single stage without putting a clear coat, needless to say in texas sun it oxidizes easily. I planing to repaint using 2 stage this time.
Originally i had to strip it down to bare single i had badly cracked paint and surface rust. So after i put epoxy primer, then a 2k filler primer, seal primer then layed down the single stage color. It came out very good.
Now my question is when i do repaint with 2 stage should i take it back down to metal or can i scuff it, fixed couple minor spots then prime and do my color and clear?
Or should i do it another way?
The thing you're going to want to consider is mil thickness. If it just has the single stage on it currently you could spot repair, scuff with 600 on a DA and spray. If it is has factory paint, plus a single stage paint, and THEN you want to coat again it's getting borderline of needing to strip again.
@@eastwoodco Thanks.
I had to strip the original paint because of clear coat failure that caused the paint to crack all the way thru to the metal that then caused surface rust to pop up in those cracks. So its just epoxy primer and single stage.
Hi, whats the name of the 2 spray guns used?
We used the P500 and CC500 for this project.
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-primer-hvlp-paint-gun.html
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-color-and-clearcoat-hvlp-paint-gun.html
Could you use the sct to strip down a Corvette fiberglass body?
With extreme care not to sand through to the fiberglass yes it is ok.
Great video ( except for the noisy distracting needless background music ) with practical clear steps.
Glad you liked it!
❤❤❤❤
I ripped my hood off bc Highway wind, so i gotta sand and beat it anyways
Just wanted to find weather resistant paint and sealer
All of our paints are going to handle normal weather as well as factory paint. We'd suggest our OEM Select Base Coat to match your factory color and show Car 4:1 clear.
Primer/Sealer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-epoxy-primer-gallon.html
Basecoat: www.eastwood.com/oempaint/selecting/yearbrandmake
Clear: www.eastwood.com/4-1-premium-show-clear-kit-5-quarts.html
Wouldn’t it be better to remove the luggage rack slats instead of masking them?
The luggage slats are riveted to the car so we opted to leave them in place. We were under time constraints, if you have the time you can remove them.
That DSB looks awfully soft for block out a panel nice and straight.
The DSB has a hard nylon base plate for laser straight blocking and foam around the body for a nice hand feel.
@@eastwoodcothanks
No hate, I like the video and learned from it, but the original title of the video was definitely misleading. "How to repaint a car at home"... Then takes the car to professional with a booth. I'd like to see a genuine garage paint job, like all of us doing this at home would actually have. This would also give you the opportunity to talk about methods for removing dust nibs from clear, etc. Just a thought. Great instructions as always though!
Sorry! We sometimes workshop titles when releasing videos. We discuss those steps you're asking about in this video: ruclips.net/video/BfNHnTg4lLg/видео.htmlsi=MM67RkesnPUdRHwk&t=808
Clean on Lucus
What kind of car painting process is 2 cm/p?
What are you referencing?
Your office is in Canada 🇨🇦?
No our HQ is in Pennsylvania and we have warehouses across the U.S.
Price? couple hundred or closer to a couple thousand? I already have access to most of the tools.
Which part are you asking on price? Materials wise?
You'll need _at least_ a gallon of primer, 1 gallon of base coat, and 1 gallon of clear coat. Plus sand paper, masking paper, tape, etc.
Gallon of urethane primer/hardener: 175.98
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-urethane-primer-and-activator-gal-kit.html
Gallon of Teal Ocean Metallic (very similar to color in video): 88.98
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4-1-teal-ocean-metallic-basecoat-128oz.html
Basecoat activator: 69.99
www.eastwood.com/ew-low-voc-urethane-activator-qt-medium.html
Clear coat and hardener: 263.98
www.eastwood.com/4-1-premium-show-clear-kit-5-quarts.html
Total: $598.93 as of today for top coats.
whats the colour?
It's the factory 1993 Ford Calypso Green. Code is PM.
I don't like all the abbreviations sbv?
What abbreviations do you need clarification on? We used the Contour SCT (Surface Conditioning Tool) to strip the hood if that's what you're referring to.
❤❤
Thanks!
No breathing protection?
What are you referring to?
A bit disappointed start at home ended at a garage what was this all about.
Everything in this video can be done in a home garage up to the actual spraying of the car. We've used inflatable booths in the past which is an at Home DIY solution. Use whatever method you have access too.
If you've NEVER done this. Consult an actual body man. You'll waste so much time if you don't. Eastwood has some good stuff, sure. Best body filler by miles is 3M Platinum Plus. Best dent repair and metal straightening is.. Best done by a body man. We'll help you, but it's best you just let us do it for you if you want good results.
We're here to empower the DIY community to tackle these projects themselves not to drop it off and have someone tell them "let us do it for you". Part of the pride of having a custom vehicle is knowing the hard work that went into it and being proud of the results.
We outline in this video the steps that can be taken to repaint your ride - and it CAN be done by anyone with patience and a plan.
8 Mile
why did you use epoxy primer, then urethane primer, then an epoxy sealer all before the base. Just seems a like a lot, also I have very little knowledge of painting.
Epoxy primer has really good adhesion to bare metal, urethane has decent build and fill qualities, the epoxy sealer is optional but our painter Ray preferred it as it makes everything nice and uniform and is a final chance to address micro scratches.
I'll never be able to do this at home by myself
YOU CAN! Just take your time and do it step by step.
My original Fox Mustang in much better shape and all original paint, but need some panels addressed. These cars were shot from factory in single stage most colors, so dont ruin this car with base coat and clear, unless your painting entire car and want the benefits of that.
I don't think we can agree that painting something with a longer lasting, higher quality finish is _ruining_ the car. But as you mentioned this mustang's paint was in pretty rough shape and needed to be redone.
Why did you guys blocked the epoxy that's a sealer you could have put to 2K urethane on top of the epoxy
We applied epoxy *primer* then blocked it, then applied urethane primer and blocked it. We discuss this in the video as this is our work flow but production shops will often just use urethane and move on. Please watch the video fully.
looks really dry that finish do
Where are you looking? All of our final shots 17:02 on show it's nice and glossy.
Did anyone notice the orange peel
Just like every car in your driveway.
Why does everyone have to have freaking music playing? TURN THAT CRAP OFF!
Yes yes yes!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍👍
Yes so annoying !!!!!
Preach
The colors are slightly different from the previous color of the car body😂
Are they? We show the jambs at the end and it looks pretty spot on to us. 🤔
Yeah this is just doing a quick paint job to sell it. $4000 paint job, sells car for $3,000
That makes ZERO sense😂😂😂
Please turn the annoying music off. It’s like a fly in face
Unfortunately we can't turn the music off once uploaded.
Good job!
Thanks!