Epoxy Primer For Bare Metal??? Caprice lowrider PT1
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- In this video we will be taking a look at spraying epoxy sealer / primer on this Caprice lowrider bare metal repaint
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Your awesome Tony. Forgot to tell you thanks for you last video about mental health. A lot of people don't think that's real until they go through it. Just appreciate all you do, and always enjoy your videos. Thanks
thanks chris really appreciate that mate hope you have a great xmas
@Tony's Refinishing You too man. Appreciate all your hard work. Learned so much from you, and others that give so much.
@Tony's Refinishing hi Tony back here in the USA the series #2 has not been released here yet they keep pushing the released date back my question is the series #2 worth buying
awesome work brother can't wait
Me neither
I think in areas like the UK and many places in the US you really need to use epoxy. Here in CA. it is not nearly as necessary. But for some things it still is a good idea. and great for an adhesion coat before you put down your high build primer.
put a wood stove or drum with chimney in for heating?
HA - I guarantee that once you use COOPERS STRIPPER from NEW ZEALAND - you will NEVER use any other sort of paint stripper - AMAZING stuff and they will ship to anywhere in the world at a very decent rate. I notice that some types of epoxy are described as a hybrid and are sandable, and still ok to wet sand as well - which (in 'theory') means that they are 'waterproof'. I have been out of painting for a long time - but about to retire (from law) and have a long list of projects that I intended to be able to spend time with my boys in the new workshop on - and I plan to use epoxy on all of them over the bare metal. I have seen PPG 2050 and also SPI epoxy that seem both to have similar sandable characteristics. Anyone have good - OR - bad experiences with these (HA - excluding 'operator error'). CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Hi Tony thanx mate fur the video. As you know a lot of RUclips viewers are doing these pain jobs without a heated paint booth mate . Is there anything we can add to the epoxy primer to make it cure quicker if painted in winter time?
I remember painting a car last winter with epoxy primer inside my garage abd i was so nervous because the epoxy primer didn’t cute for like 2-3 days and it was my first painting project .
To overcome this issue , I put extra harderner in my 2k single stage white which went over the epoxy primer and thus trick worked well they both cured well.
Should we add bit more harderner to epoxy if sprayed in winter mate? Or is there a chemical additive to mix with empty to cure quick in cold temp
If we dont see you before hand, have a great christmas pal, you and all your family, and a huge thanks for all the vids and personal input throughout the year
Same to you bud and thankyou
Epoxy has been in the auto refinish industry for a long time, and I think regardless of brand, when used correctly it is fantastic stuff. I had my Subaru bare metal epoxy primed in 2009 and it sat in a variety of environments (home garage, a friend's workshop, storage facilities, including a long, wet winter outside with nothing but a basic tarp protecting it) for about 7 years whilst other things took priority... and it still held up! When I eventually got round to doing the final paint, it was taken back to bare metal in places where it had started to break down a bit, probably due to UV exposure, but it was otherwise tough as old boots, easy enough to sand, feathered nicely and can be over-coated with pretty much anything. It's always recommended to epoxy prime bare steel before doing any filler work, as you quite rightly say, any polyester-based product is going to absorb moisture and is no good for long term protection.
Very good, I use a rust converter before epoxy on bare metal, etches metal, gives you a bigger window to work with.
Amazing job, i love this your video sir💖💖❣❣❣❣❣
A year and a month ago I stripped a fender arch to bare metal and sprayed 1 heavy coat of Novol (spectral 395) epoxy primer spray can over it, white. It has perfectly protected the metal, and I mean absolutely zero rust or blemished poking through. It's an amazing product although during the past year it's gone up in price by roughly 30%. Spray cans have always been more expensive compared to spray gun paint, but when you gotta get the job done no matter what, it's there as an option.
My only gripe with epoxy primers is that they are very thin, all scratches and dimples show through it no matter how many coats you put on, so a thick base needs to go over it and/or body filler. But as you say, it's main purpose is to seal and protect the metal from OUTSIDE elements, and it does so perfectly.
I've used MIPA Epoxy on a project that had bare metal, galv metal, stainless, factory primer, ABS, aluminium and extruded polystyrene - this epoxy is brilliant, no issues with any of these substrates. It's also available in a 2K rattle can for small jobs.
Looking forward to watching this series. Watched the "Mini-series" several times.
Just subscribed mate good to get videos from the UK to see how this Baltic cold effects things.
Hi. Do you have gun iwata lph440 for primer?
Simon good job
Nice to see an automotive painter introducing epoxy primers! Have been in the Marine finishing industry for Many Years, also at various times have been asked to paint automotive, and the first coat of primer on my autos is a two part epoxy primer! Have found it to give incredible results, and no moisture to worry about although have also gotten ridicule for doing so. Another item I use instead of automobile fillers, have resorted to epoxies fill as well! They do not shrink or leave pitting and seem to make fairing much easier task. Thank you for sharing! I seldom watch paint videos and when yours showed with using epoxies I had to hear what your opinion was. Thank You
thanks and thankyou for taking the time to tune in to my little channel mate lol nice to have you visit
@@TonysRefinishingTV how long have you been using epoxy primers? Do you enjoy its capabilities? Have you ever tried two part epoxy filler instead of polyester? I have been using West System and the thickener coke in different consistency making it a very versatile product. I shifted using epoxies from marine use to automotive with Excellent results. Thanks for your reply and Nice video also
Hey Lawrence, I'm in the Marine industry as well. Are you familiar with Awlgrip Awlfair epoxy putty? It's the best on the planet!! 😁
Hello, I am using epoxy over 10 years, but every now and than some smartass comes to me wit "you could use etch primer, it is better" and that type of ideas.. whats the benefit of etch primers over the epoxy? In my opinion, epoxy wins, but I want to hear your opinion.
epoxy by far for the win mate etch is nowhere near as good
Look for videos on copies of the Eastwood Contour SCT sander tool .
Epoxy is a bullet proof first step for every finish and stops micro blistering ( trapped damp ) .
On a Glasurit Porsche training course years ago they taught us to even brush a coat before using filler because of the galvanized metal used on Porsche.
Not sure what you mean by the sander took mate tbh
What do you Wap down with prior to a epoxy? Wax & Grace?
Thanks for the video. So Epoxy primer/sealer on bare metal prevents the panel from rusting for a lenghty period of time?
As you said, I used self-etch in a few spots on my project where the sander broke through to bare metal, and now all of those spots have absorbed enough water to show surface rust spots.
yes mate youve got a long time if done right ive got panels that have been done as tests for 12 months and still in bare epoxy havent rusted
Yes epoxy is the way to go, even on aluminium, the old days are gone for etch, maybe only on galvanised metal. Also wanted to know how the industry in general is coping with the hike in gas & electric prices, I don't expect any business can absorb those costs now. Keep up the good work & would love to see more of the welding panel work.
100% agree mate about the epoxy by far a better material , and its hard mate have to be alot keener on lights being on ect structure booth time so fuel better but the fact is customers have to pay more
Nice work as always Tony. Always enjoy your content mate. Happy New year to you and your family.
Same to you buddy and thankyou
Thanks for another great video Tony.I hope you are well and you and your family have a great Christmas. Looking forward to your next one.👏🍻
Thanks Colin and hope you and yours do to mate
Some blocking on the horizon eh Tony !!!!!! Great to have you back pal 👍👍👍
Tell me about it lol and good to be back man thanks
Megusto
If you are talking about Evercoat Super Build it's good stuff
That’s the one fella yeah
Another cracking vid. I was under the impression u shouldnt use etch if you want to body filler over the top, is that right?
Best to scrap off etch off together mate these days and just grab some epoxy
Just wondering, once you have done all of the repairs to these panels, do you use epoxy again or highbuild over the top?
as i said in the video il be using the 3 in 1 spray filler from evercoat which is epoxy spray filler and primer all in one basically, but id epoxy again normally over the top then say primer or id epoxy lightly and spray filler
Do you have any tips or advice on getting a appreciate I have done a course in panting and am looking in to it and if I get one what gun would u recommend in the 120 price thanks
unfortunately buddy im not sure best way would be to go around all the local shops introduce yourself pass on a cv cover letter ect and hope for the best mate
Thanks for posting this.
Nice video! Can you check which Epoxy it is you used? There's EP-Primer/Surfacer and EP-Grundierfiller. I order the Primer/surfacer a while ago but unfortunately there was moisture in the can so i haven't been able to test it out. Thanks!
ep grundifiller
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thx!
Great to have you back Tony and another good video. I know this time of year isn't always easy for some people myself included but I'd like to wish you a happy Christmas and a happy and healthy new year hopefully it'll not be to long before you have another video out.
thanks man and you too buddy
Nice to see you back on deck Tony. Have a good Christmas break.
Thanks fella and you too
Hi Tony I was really surprised when you told me yesterday afternoon that there would be a video in the evening, I didn't even ask you this week as you had a few problems so wasn't expecting one but it's really nice to see you back mate.
Enjoyed the live chat mate there seemed to be quite a few on here so I hope the figures were better than you expected, the WS400 S2 seemed to handle the epoxy primer really well and laid it down nice a flat, never used epoxy but I did try the Novol polyester spray filler the other day while it went on ok with my 2.5m in the primer gun it made the floor and walls of my booth feel sticky plus does that stuff stink, it sanded really nice but don't think I'll use it again.
Thanks again for the video👏👏👍
yeah gotta love some thick primer to mess up the booth mate lol , and well yano i thought id surprise you and keep you on your toes mate lol, videos doing well actually for a new upload atm so well see how things go this next few weeks channel wise
Well it was a surprise, yeah seems to be doing well mate👍
Not criticising just curious, I’ve never done a full respray before. I’ve always thought that most people spray base coat over filler primer, but it’s better to use a sealer primer before base coat? However you seem to use epoxy, then filler primer and then a high build primer like there’s an extra step in there that I’m not sure about. Does the primer you use also act as a sealer or does the fact you use a non shrinking filler spray mean you don’t need to?
so its not better as such, it will allow me to prep to slightly a lesser grade speeding up prep time and the sealer will then fill all prep marks so the base lays on a more perfect surface thats fully sealed and all one colour if that makes sense so it cuts time cost and also the amount of base needed to cover , so we use epoxy then filler primer then sometimes a sealer 9 high build and filler primer are the same )
@@TonysRefinishingTV ah ok yeah that makes sense, thanks for the reply. That was what confused me really, getting it perfect and then putting another layer
💯🔥💪🏽👌🏽
Another great video Tony.
I love your channel can't wait for more to come.
Awesome, thank you adam and lots more to come mate
Thanks for the video Tony, very helpful.
Very welcome
Amazing job! Thanks for taking us through all the detailed step.
My pleasure!
merry christmas and a very happy new year to you and all viewers
Same to you buddy have a great one
If the insasa super build is an epoxy why do you epoxy first? Great work 👍🏼
As i want to use it once all the repair work is done so itll seal all the filler work ect and give a great surface to block
@@TonysRefinishingTV would you recommend it straight to metal or do you still recommend normal epoxy primer first?
You using a series 2 iwata for this job buddy
yes mate
Hi Tony Happy New Year looking forward to some new vids you make it look too easy. Was spraying my plastic hubcaps with black celly satin finish but the repairs I've done to any scratches show through the finish coat and on some parts the paint seems to have separated showing the old paint finish.All been scuffed and cleaned with water based degreaser, panel wipe and alcahol but still it happens. Can you recommend a suitable sealer I can use before I respray them again. I have a large compressor and flg5 spraygun ( bought after watching your review- thanks). Keep up the good work you give lots of good tips which I find very helpfull. Thanks.
are you in the uk mate ?
@@TonysRefinishingTV Hi thanks for replying I know you are very busy yes I am in the UK (up north ).
Ok there’s a product called bar coat it’s a sealer that can be used which may work in your case the issue is celly paint doesn’t like a lot of things but it’s worth a try
@@TonysRefinishingTV Ok thanks I had looked at that on eBay. Churchill seem to do a similar one. I will give it a try hopefully it works. Thanks very much for your help.
Thanks Tony! I enjoy learning how to do these steps right! I appreciate knowing the product names and the information on your guns and spray tips.
your welcome bruce
@@TonysRefinishingTV hi tony, can you recommend a good quality air compressor for painting? like painting for DIY purpose not for professional paint jobs
Hi do you have a link for the all in one epoxy spray filler you mentioned?
spsupplies.co.uk/product/evercoat-optex-super-build-41-primer-kit-4-7l/
@@TonysRefinishingTV awesome thanks buddy 🤘🏽
Hi Tony..would you spray etch primer on aluminum first then epoxy over ? Or would you go straight on with epoxy On aluminum ..thanks for your videos cheers..all the best.
Never put etch under epoxy,it's either or
as already said mate only epoxy or etch never both in my opinion epoxy forget about etch
@@darrylbrown7833 cheers for the reply. 👍
@Tony's Refinishing I'm using trimite paint..I've been getting blisters when I use the etch and epoxy together on aluminium steel. It recommends it on the Tds ..but I don't like it. Appreciate your answer mate. 🙏
Hi mate. Thought I would give you a heads up from a bad experience of mine. I am no professional like Tony, this is just my experience and thoughts, but I have done a lot of painting now thanks to the confidence Tony (and others) have given me. Don't waste time and money with etch primer. it is not only useless, but it causes reactions and issues further down the line. The problem is that most etch primers are 1K product. Whatever you apply on top of the etch, the solvents in it will attack the etch and react with it. Also, I have done some experiments on clean steel with etch and epoxy, and the bond strength of etch is totally inferior. The only problem you may have with aluminium is that it oxidises very quickly and the oxide is not as easy to see as rust. Make sure that you clean the aluminium and remove all oxide pitting. Sand the final surface to 120 grit, clean it again, then epoxy prime as soon as possible. Don't try and attack too large an area at a time. Once cured, the epoxy can be sanded and filled before application of a high build. Personally, I use the HB Body epoxy primer as it contains rust inhibitors and can be thinned and sprayed with a 1.3mm tip, so is ideal for covering any rub-throughs to bare metal without piling material on before high build priming.
Great video Tony
thanks fella hope you are well graham
Nice work Tony..
Thanks
Mooie video, groeten uit Holland
thankyou
Excellent 👍
Many thanks
thank you Tony A+
welcome buddy
Great video Tony 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
👍👍👍👏👏👏
thanks fella
nice!!
Thanks!
Awesome job 👌
Thank you! Cheers!
I've found that a lot of manufacturers epoxies don't recommend straight application to bare metal which is annoying, a lot say only for small patches of bare. I had to search a few brands to find one where the documentation recommended bare metal application.
Recently got myself a Kapci epoxy to try because it was easy to find and suggests bare metal use, but haven't got around to it testing it yet. I have been using Debeer but there are some supply issues at the moment and the one I had been using requires (at least in their documentation that I use a wash primer first)
most i know are recommended for bare metal tbh maybe you have different products manufacturers where you are
@@TonysRefinishingTV The kapci epoxy I bought is good for straight application, but i believe all the Debeer ones of which they have quite a choice all spec that for bare metal bigger than just a breakthrough should be wash primed first. Just need to find another decent brand which can be applied to bare.
I have used the Debeer ones applied to bare steel on some parts and they seem fine, but I always prefer to follow the manufacturers guidelines. The Debeer non sanding black primer is great for small parts with lots of shape as not requiring sanding saves a lot of time. And since the wash primer is only 1 thin layer and dries fast its not too much hassle to apply.