This element would not budge an inch and the socket I was using didn't help much either. So I figured I'd give it one last try after a little trimming!
I know there is a wrench specifically made to remove these for like 8 bucks. On top of saving the money, it would have taken me over an hour to drive to the closets place and back home. Besides I didn't ruin the socket!
Thank you for sharing you frustration and process. I have an identical issue. I didn't think of cutting the beveled edge off; I returned it for refund. I am still attempting to replace my elements. I thought that if I completely striped the nut I would be able to use an easy out. It really angers me that the nut is only 1/8" thick. There is plenty of space to make the nut thicker than 1/8." The HWH I am working on looks new. I believe the element is designed to prevent repair. Otherwise, we would be able to buy a better element with at lease a 1/4” thick nut so we could get a bite on it. I tried Amazon's Camco 09951 Professional Water Heater Element Socket. It does not look beveled on the inside; but is and does not get a good bite. You can borrow the socket and 1/2” wrench from an auto parts store, it is beveled too. I sent each of those back. I kept Amazon’s ONENESS 369 Water Heater Element and Anode Rod Set Hex Wrench Socket Tube Spanner Removal Tool 1-1/16 Inch - 1-1/2" Inch x 6" Inch Length It is not beveled. It fits the element on one end and the anode on the other. I have not been successful, nor have I given up, yet. I would really like a hot bath…..
Mine was cross-threaded. Whether by previous owner or "professional" I don't know. They cranked it down so it wouldn't leak and using my $8 special wrench I just broke the screwdriver and bent the socket and the 3/8in bar I put thru it as a handle by pounding on it with a 4lb sledge. I went and bought an impact socket but my impact wouldn't break it loose. My 2ft breaker bar wouldn't touch it. 5ft pipe on the breaker bar broke it loose and after a turn or two the impact could take it out. Of course, that also meant the replacement element needed to be put in really tight, and then even tighter to stop the leak after filling the tank, probably because it wasn't crushing the gasket squarely. I took my Sharpie and wrote "element cross threaded - do not replace" on the tank. By the time that element needs replaced again it will be time to just replace the tank. I've considered tankless for that house but it is all-electric and doesn't have enough panel capacity. Oh well.
I was on this predicament last week and exhausted all the searches, references & resources (no kidding!) on how to remove a badly rusted & corroded heating element off of my 12 year old electric water heater. Probably tried most, if not all, tricks-of-trade known in youtube and none of them worked! Then, I run into one simple video of a very humble guy who made a lot of sense to me. Folks, for a stuck, rusted, corroded, sediment baked/fused-in, heater element that refuses to budge (after trying all tools known to mankind!) try using an impact socket wrench and a 38 mm, 1/2" drive, deep impact socket (from O'Riley's auto store.) Forget your stubborn element's stripped-rounded flange corners. The impact wrench will drive the deep 38 mm impact socket on all 6 sides instead of corners and thus, applies more pound-force to the element's hex-head About 5 regular bursts of my impact wrench, the element came off real easy like a tamed Cobra! (And to think I was ready to give up and spend 800 to 1000 buckaroos for a new water heater!) Believe me it works!!!
Prior to installing a new element, apply some anti-seize compound to the threads - both the male/female. Wipe off the excess compound before installation. Anti-seize can be purchased @ any auto parts store. (Might be a good idea to apply to new tanks prior to installation.) Just my 2 cents worth.
Thanks. I got the element loose OK but it was a sickle type (type that folds back on itself) and the element had expanded over 20 years use and the sickle fold got jammed in the exit hole and the element couldn't be pulled out. I could just see the loop part sticking out. Luckily the loop part protruded just enough to cut the loop in half with a cutting disk on an angle grinder. This released the tension in the sickle fold and it then pulled out easily. Be careful not to damage the flange on the tank or you may get a leak when the new element is installed. Hope this may help someone.
Thank you for this video. We had a stuck element and was able to find a socket at Auto zone and my husband grounded it down like you showed. It worked perfectly!!
Thank you for the tip on removing the taper on the socket. I purchased a kobalt socket 1 1/2 “ at Lowe’s brought it home locked it in the vise used my ports band saw and just count the taper out with one cut! We tried for 2 days the cheap tools were useless. The standard socket with taper left Em tact was ineffective your tip lead to my success Thank You very much!!!
Thanks for this video! I have the same issue on a 21 yo water heater. Won't budge a bit, even had a strong, 6'3", big, construction worker friend of mine come try. It kind of made me feel better that it wasn't just a strength issue...lol! ;)
Just adding a comment to maybe help someone else out. I too was having this exact same issue. I happened to have an electric impact wrench so I borrowed a 38mm axel socket from a local auto parts store, This socket was not tapered like the one in the video and and it was a 6 point socket. I had struggled for roughly 4 hours trying many different things to get this loose. Well once I put the impact wrench on it with that 38mm socket it was out in about 30 seconds. Saved me from buying a $600 water heater.
I'd try a 6 sided socket instead of a 12, which is cutting your corners off. And not the cheapo thing they sell in most stores next to the replacement elements, that's ok for unstuck elements but won't do the job for tough to remove elements. Some WD40 might help too.
When you buy the heating element they offer a stamped 1 1/2" socket. It is truly worthless. An auto parts store will have a 1 1/2" six point socket. $11. That's what you need. And a 1/2" breaker bar. Maybe a little wd-40 and some time. Mine did come right off after getting the right tools.
I used heat, pb blaster with some soak time, and a bottle jack on my breaker bar. With all the sediment in this tank it was not budging. I just went ahead and upgraded the unit!
@@2001bluerata I'm with you. If they are that rusted you are certainly better off with a new tank. I kind of question how much time I have left on mine. I'm over 12 years now.
How many of us suffer through this from no fault of our own. It's the fault of the design engineer along with the CEO's and soulless marketing people who say don't make it good.
Don't you own a belt sander? I would not recommend anti-seize on potable water, use PTFE plumbers paste. By the way I have taken them out with an impact wrench with no problem. Most likely your anode had eaten away and corrosion had galled the threads.
I will try this as this looks like my last option since nothing else is worked.. and on a side note you have a water heater not a "hot water heater" otherwise there wouldn't be a point
Just once I’d love to find a video like this where they just get to the fucking point without all the jabbering about their personal life and shit. People are already frustrated
i could not remove the upper element, so i have it working with lower element only, and is working ok….i have plenty hot water…can i leave lt like that…?
Be aware that the drain valve may become clogged. So you think you have drained the tank with the hose. But when you unscrew the old heater element, many cups of water pours out! Have lots of towels and a bucket on hand, in case this happens to you. (Yes, I had shut off the two valves connected to the housing plumbing system.) I bought a Carlyle 1.5" 6-sided socket ($35) from a NAPA store as others have mentioned, and also a 1.5 foot length of old iron pipe that slid over a typical 10" socket wrench handle. That provided enough leverage to unscrew the broken element. Be sure that you completely fill the tank before flipping the breaker to apply power: Turn on the two valves, then turn on a hot water faucet for at least 3 minutes to allow the tank to fill up. Look for leaks, then flip the breaker to ON. (See the video on Vimeo.com: Standard Electric REPLACE ELEMENT Rev 2A. Shows steps for draining and refilling the tank.)
Хобби
I know there is a wrench specifically made to remove these for like 8 bucks. On top of saving the money, it would have taken me over an hour to drive to the closets place and back home. Besides I didn't ruin the socket!
Thank you for sharing you frustration and process. I have an identical issue. I didn't think of cutting the beveled edge off; I returned it for refund. I am still attempting to replace my elements. I thought that if I completely striped the nut I would be able to use an easy out. It really angers me that the nut is only 1/8" thick. There is plenty of space to make the nut thicker than 1/8." The HWH I am working on looks new. I believe the element is designed to prevent repair. Otherwise, we would be able to buy a better element with at lease a 1/4” thick nut so we could get a bite on it.
I tried Amazon's Camco 09951 Professional Water Heater Element Socket. It does not look beveled on the inside; but is and does not get a good bite. You can borrow the socket and 1/2” wrench from an auto parts store, it is beveled too. I sent each of those back.
I kept Amazon’s
ONENESS 369 Water Heater Element and Anode Rod Set Hex Wrench Socket Tube Spanner Removal Tool 1-1/16 Inch - 1-1/2" Inch x 6" Inch Length It is not beveled. It fits the element on one end and the anode on the other. I have not been successful, nor have I given up, yet. I would really like a hot bath…..
They don't always work. I just stripped 2 of em
Mine was cross-threaded. Whether by previous owner or "professional" I don't know. They cranked it down so it wouldn't leak and using my $8 special wrench I just broke the screwdriver and bent the socket and the 3/8in bar I put thru it as a handle by pounding on it with a 4lb sledge. I went and bought an impact socket but my impact wouldn't break it loose. My 2ft breaker bar wouldn't touch it. 5ft pipe on the breaker bar broke it loose and after a turn or two the impact could take it out. Of course, that also meant the replacement element needed to be put in really tight, and then even tighter to stop the leak after filling the tank, probably because it wasn't crushing the gasket squarely. I took my Sharpie and wrote "element cross threaded - do not replace" on the tank. By the time that element needs replaced again it will be time to just replace the tank.
I've considered tankless for that house but it is all-electric and doesn't have enough panel capacity. Oh well.
I was on this predicament last week and exhausted all the searches, references & resources (no kidding!) on how to remove a badly rusted & corroded heating element off of my 12 year old electric water heater. Probably tried most, if not all, tricks-of-trade known in youtube and none of them worked! Then, I run into one simple video of a very humble guy who made a lot of sense to me. Folks, for a stuck, rusted, corroded, sediment baked/fused-in, heater element that refuses to budge (after trying all tools known to mankind!) try using an impact socket wrench and a 38 mm, 1/2" drive, deep impact socket (from O'Riley's auto store.) Forget your stubborn element's stripped-rounded flange corners. The impact wrench will drive the deep 38 mm impact socket on all 6 sides instead of corners and thus, applies more pound-force to the element's hex-head About 5 regular bursts of my impact wrench, the element came off real easy like a tamed Cobra! (And to think I was ready to give up and spend 800 to 1000 buckaroos for a new water heater!) Believe me it works!!!
Prior to installing a new element, apply some anti-seize compound to the threads - both the male/female. Wipe off the excess compound before installation. Anti-seize can be purchased @ any auto parts store. (Might be a good idea to apply to new tanks prior to installation.) Just my 2 cents worth.
I would try Heat to the element would not Hurt to try it !
Great tip. I use that stuff on lots of things
Thanks. I got the element loose OK but it was a sickle type (type that folds back on itself) and the element had expanded over 20 years use and the sickle fold got jammed in the exit hole and the element couldn't be pulled out. I could just see the loop part sticking out. Luckily the loop part protruded just enough to cut the loop in half with a cutting disk on an angle grinder. This released the tension in the sickle fold and it then pulled out easily. Be careful not to damage the flange on the tank or you may get a leak when the new element is installed. Hope this may help someone.
Thank you for this video. We had a stuck element and was able to find a socket at Auto zone and my husband grounded it down like you showed. It worked perfectly!!
Thank you for the tip on removing the taper on the socket. I purchased a kobalt socket 1 1/2 “ at Lowe’s brought it home locked it in the vise used my ports band saw and just count the taper out with one cut! We tried for 2 days the cheap tools were useless. The standard socket with taper left Em tact was ineffective your tip lead to my success Thank You very much!!!
Thanks for this video! I have the same issue on a 21 yo water heater. Won't budge a bit, even had a strong, 6'3", big, construction worker friend of mine come try. It kind of made me feel better that it wasn't just a strength issue...lol! ;)
Thanks this worked for me when the water heater wrench did not budge the element. I used a bench grinder to grind the socket.
same
Just adding a comment to maybe help someone else out. I too was having this exact same issue. I happened to have an electric impact wrench so I borrowed a 38mm axel socket from a local auto parts store, This socket was not tapered like the one in the video and and it was a 6 point socket. I had struggled for roughly 4 hours trying many different things to get this loose. Well once I put the impact wrench on it with that 38mm socket it was out in about 30 seconds. Saved me from buying a $600 water heater.
I'd try a 6 sided socket instead of a 12, which is cutting your corners off. And not the cheapo thing they sell in most stores next to the replacement elements, that's ok for unstuck elements but won't do the job for tough to remove elements. Some WD40 might help too.
six point socket!
yep - and 38mm, not 1.5 inch
At least I know I'm not the only one with a stuck element, thank you for the video!
My neighbor had a socket that fit and it worked to get it out!
THIS WORKED. THANK YOU!!!!!!
38mm 6 point impact socket is best solution on these. 12 point will round the nut off. 2 seconds freed up
You saved me bud...must love
Best way to deal with this problem appears to be the correct six sided socket on an impact wrench. There a video on line discussing that use.
PB blaster is your best friend.
I used it, plus heat, plus a bottle jack being cranked up on the end of a breaker bar while I held the socket in place. It wasn't budging!
That was very helpful. Ih
When you buy the heating element they offer a stamped 1 1/2" socket. It is truly worthless. An auto parts store will have a 1 1/2" six point socket. $11. That's what you need. And a 1/2" breaker bar. Maybe a little wd-40 and some time. Mine did come right off after getting the right tools.
I used heat, pb blaster with some soak time, and a bottle jack on my breaker bar. With all the sediment in this tank it was not budging. I just went ahead and upgraded the unit!
@@2001bluerata I'm with you. If they are that rusted you are certainly better off with a new tank. I kind of question how much time I have left on mine. I'm over 12 years now.
I'm with you John. the right tools for the job
So what did u do after
I replaced it with this! ruclips.net/video/DwQbWseIEzk/видео.html
How many of us suffer through this from no fault of our own. It's the fault of the design engineer along with the CEO's and soulless marketing people who say don't make it good.
Don't you own a belt sander? I would not recommend anti-seize on potable water, use PTFE plumbers paste. By the way I have taken them out with an impact wrench with no problem. Most likely your anode had eaten away and corrosion had galled the threads.
I managed to get mine off, sprayed some wd-40 and let it sit for 2 hours i then used a chisels and a hammer and knocked it counter clockwise
get yourself a "6 point" socket
Now all I have to do is the same thing, right.........
Camco makes a socket just for this
I will try this as this looks like my last option since nothing else is worked.. and on a side note you have a water heater not a "hot water heater" otherwise there wouldn't be a point
Why not buy a 6 sided socket, impact driver to remove helps in spades does what you can't mimic
Been alot easier with a 6 point socket 12 points are no good for that
I discovered that today sadly 😞
Just once I’d love to find a video like this where they just get to the fucking point without all the jabbering about their personal life and shit. People are already frustrated
Waste of time. You should have said that you couldn't get it out
Yes the video was a failure. Delete it 🙄
Waste of my time watching it
i could not remove the upper element, so i have it working with lower element only, and is working ok….i have plenty hot water…can i leave lt like that…?
Be aware that the drain valve may become clogged. So you think you have drained the tank with the hose. But when you unscrew the old heater element, many cups of water pours out! Have lots of towels and a bucket on hand, in case this happens to you. (Yes, I had shut off the two valves connected to the housing plumbing system.) I bought a Carlyle 1.5" 6-sided socket ($35) from a NAPA store as others have mentioned, and also a 1.5 foot length of old iron pipe that slid over a typical 10" socket wrench handle. That provided enough leverage to unscrew the broken element. Be sure that you completely fill the tank before flipping the breaker to apply power: Turn on the two valves, then turn on a hot water faucet for at least 3 minutes to allow the tank to fill up. Look for leaks, then flip the breaker to ON. (See the video on Vimeo.com: Standard Electric REPLACE ELEMENT Rev 2A. Shows steps for draining and refilling the tank.)