Dodged a similar bullet last year. Local place was doing a free water heater with a new AC unit. When they came to remove the old one, they showed me the side facing the wall was about to rupture. It would have filled my packed garage. Miss ya, Brad. Always glad to see anything on the channel. Hope you and the fam is doing good! Much love, brother!
Many years in building maintenance, electric water heaters we used to replace the drain valves with ball valves. Most of the gate valves that come with these heaters are crap. If you ever replace a heater install a ball valve and it will always work.
Day late dollar short on this video but anyone that pulls a heating element out on the bottom that looks like that, more then likely you have sediment building up and every now an then the sediment hits your element. It could also be from old age but I highly suggest you get you a shop vac wet/dry shop vac and cut a water hose get that sediment out of the tank.
My tank is too far gone and is leaking from the top.. Rusted out, so I'm gonna have to do a total replacement obviously. :/ Great video though.. These are skills _all_ homeowners should have! 👍
Once you get into sweating new pipe, might be time to call the pro, unless you have some experience. I think I would be willing to try it myself, but I would want to watch several instructional videos before attempting it on a water heater.
@@Fixologist1 I've done a little of it, but the way I figure it, I'm pretty damn good with soldering electronics.. it can't be too much harder to solder pipe. We'll find out soon enough though.. Lol. 😬 RUclips is certainly a blessing in that regard.
Always flush that sediment out before installing the elements...look up the sediment buster to flush your tank with,it helps out alot when trying to remove all the sediment in the tank
Brad, unless you did it off camera, you didn't get the right "foot" of both upper and lower thermostats behind the spring clip. The thermostat is supposed to sit tight and flat in contact with the tank, so it can accurately sense the temperature of the water. I would think an air gap between the tank and the thermostat might affect accuracy of water temperature?
I noticed that in editing. Need to seat that better. The water temp doesn’t seem extreme, so i think the coupling is enough to trip it ok. Gonna fix that in the next day or two.
Dude, you need to install a water softener. I went through 3 sets of elements, a dishwasher, a refrigerator pump and bath jet pump, before I installed mine. They are awesome.
I have replaced a lower on a smaller trailer hot water heater back in 99. Easy on the one I had. Went ahead and added new fiberglass insulation as well. Big jump in hot water when they are new from being old. hahah
Great video. Here in the desert above Los Angeles, nobody knows anything about electric water heaters. Now I have a part number. No, the local Ferguson Supply can't (won't?) Look up a number. New house is going to be all solar and therefore all electric. Thanks Brad!
When I did that, I only changed the lower element. It does about 90% of the work. The upper one only really comes on if you're starting to run out of hot water. Otherwise, the heat from the bottom one should keep the upper thermostat satisfied. Unless that lower element went young, there's not a lot of point in changing other things as the tank is likely to be next. In my area, tanks should be changed around 10-12 years. If you push to 15, you're likely to end up with water on the floor.
I'm surprised the drain valve cooperated that easily. I would have tested the valve before attaching the hose. I've had a case where there was so much sediment, I had to turn the main water back on to get enough pressure to start the flow.
Ps. I just learned about hot water recirculating systems and those should be mandatory, but maybe not because Elon just told me there’s plenty of water here on the west coast. He told me the hyperloop wasn’t strategic pseudoscientific misuse of what would’ve been a proven infrastructure project for public transport used to drill one lane tunnels too.
Actually fashioned a spoon to clean the calcium out of the bottom of my tank. If I didn't clean the calcium out of the bottom. I would be lucky to get a year out of the new element. Seemed by cleaning the bottom of tank. It would considerably last way longer. Just a thought if you would have to do it again in a short while. Keep them coming Brad.
Same love your vids of any kind. The calcium build up on your heating element makes me think your anodizing rod may be wore out and not doing its job. Its supposed to atrract and collect those minerals so it doesnt eat your tank.
This all seems suspiciously familiar. Cut the power, drain the reservoir, disconnect the heater wires, and replace some cooked components. 4,500 watts of output power though - that's about 90 KT120's! FYI: I'm starting to get a sprinkling of Guitologist notifications. Maybe we've turned the corner?
Next time you go into the Big Orange Box or Lowes... pick up a water heater element socket wrench. The socket is dirt cheap. Just a couple of bucks. Leave it sitting on top of the water heater. Use maybe once every 5-10 years, but you won't have to look for it.
It's interesting seeing how heating systems differ in the US. In the UK we mainly have combi boilers now that don't need water tanks and are very efficient ( also give instant heat and hot water, so no waiting for tanks to fill and heat up )
Oh we have tankless water heaters here too. First they’re not always the best fit for certain situations. Second, they’re very expensive. Third, you saw an electric water heater in this video. My home (and many others) use a natural gas heater which is less expensive to heat. Although all this will be changing as the Socialists Authoritarians using the hoax of man made climate change to force us all to do whatever they say whether it’s actually better or not.
Do you not have any gas or oil boiler for water heating over there? In my system, we have a water tank upstairs with a heat exchanger coil inside, that carries hot water pumped directly from the oil boiler downstairs. A diverter valve lets you send the boiler feed to the water tank for hot water or to the radiators to heat the rooms. There is an electric heating element inside the tank too, but that's generally only used as a backup.
Well done and with care for the changed elements... Now that the work has been done, how much does the labor cost and who pays for it? I'm serious, in your opinion, how much would something like this cost if it was done by a company? I also changed the heating element from the washing machine and it still looks the same... but after 11 years of operation (twice a week) I think that the heating resistance (2000 watts) was worth changing... 15 dollars (without workmanship, done by me) and it's still working for 3 and a half years already... now I got the bearing kit and the sealing gasket and I'm getting ready to break this work too.."gratis", maybe a bottle of beer after the "reception" " works by the owner... a big "Like" and as few interventions as possible.. Dan
Never a fun job but at least it's an easy one. Beware of those stupid plastic drain valves. A lot of times once you open it they never actually close properly and tend to leak
Hey Brad! Hope you'll manage to repair that. Those things can be real bombs... I found a little video (it's in French, but you can activate the automatic translation) and would like to ask you what you think about it (if you have the time, to watch it!). Have a great day and take care! The video: ruclips.net/video/NWP1prjxKrg/видео.html
Flashback arrestors or the like should be such an easily implemented oversight extrapolated into systems at large and they are, but the difference is integrity and misrepresentation is appealed to by the new religion of anti scientific stupidity because expectations of knowledge in a society with infinite availability of information must ideologically destroy the insurances to blow up the house.
Dodged a similar bullet last year. Local place was doing a free water heater with a new AC unit. When they came to remove the old one, they showed me the side facing the wall was about to rupture. It would have filled my packed garage.
Miss ya, Brad. Always glad to see anything on the channel. Hope you and the fam is doing good! Much love, brother!
Just in time!
Many years in building maintenance, electric water heaters we used to replace the drain valves with ball valves. Most of the gate valves that come with these heaters are crap. If you ever replace a heater install a ball valve and it will always work.
work gloves. work boots and pyjama bottoms - thats next level american Bradders
Day late dollar short on this video but anyone that pulls a heating element out on the bottom that looks like that, more then likely you have sediment building up and every now an then the sediment hits your element. It could also be from old age but I highly suggest you get you a shop vac wet/dry shop vac and cut a water hose get that sediment out of the tank.
Those hydrojets are great sounding amps!
My tank is too far gone and is leaking from the top.. Rusted out, so I'm gonna have to do a total replacement obviously. :/
Great video though.. These are skills _all_ homeowners should have! 👍
Once you get into sweating new pipe, might be time to call the pro, unless you have some experience. I think I would be willing to try it myself, but I would want to watch several instructional videos before attempting it on a water heater.
@@Fixologist1 I've done a little of it, but the way I figure it, I'm pretty damn good with soldering electronics.. it can't be too much harder to solder pipe. We'll find out soon enough though.. Lol. 😬
RUclips is certainly a blessing in that regard.
Always flush that sediment out before installing the elements...look up the sediment buster to flush your tank with,it helps out alot when trying to remove all the sediment in the tank
Brad, unless you did it off camera, you didn't get the right "foot" of both upper and lower thermostats behind the spring clip. The thermostat is supposed to sit tight and flat in contact with the tank, so it can accurately sense the temperature of the water. I would think an air gap between the tank and the thermostat might affect accuracy of water temperature?
I noticed that in editing. Need to seat that better. The water temp doesn’t seem extreme, so i think the coupling is enough to trip it ok. Gonna fix that in the next day or two.
@@TheGuitologist 👍 I know it's not a big huge deal, but I thought say something.
Cool man, lots of good info. Props for making great content from necessary chores. Keep crushing man
Good job Brad been there done that!you are a home plumber!Cheers!
Thanks for reminding me I need to drain my hot water heater.
Dude, you need to install a water softener. I went through 3 sets of elements, a dishwasher, a refrigerator pump and bath jet pump, before I installed mine. They are awesome.
I have replaced a lower on a smaller trailer hot water heater back in 99. Easy on the one I had. Went ahead and added new fiberglass insulation as well. Big jump in hot water when they are new from being old. hahah
Great video. Here in the desert above Los Angeles, nobody knows anything about electric water heaters. Now I have a part number. No, the local Ferguson Supply can't (won't?) Look up a number. New house is going to be all solar and therefore all electric. Thanks Brad!
Desert industrial up there is way better than ferguson
@@highdesertjustin thanks. The Palmdale store is only about an hour from Apple Valley. I'll try them. Cheers!
@@tedgay8427 winnelson in hesperia is better than ferguson in victorville. I live in hesperia, and have worked up there a long time.
22:30 No! Flush it out real good .....You still can and should flush it and then flush it every couple of years it's a good practice!
Awesome. Love watching anything you do
When I did that, I only changed the lower element. It does about 90% of the work. The upper one only really comes on if you're starting to run out of hot water. Otherwise, the heat from the bottom one should keep the upper thermostat satisfied. Unless that lower element went young, there's not a lot of point in changing other things as the tank is likely to be next. In my area, tanks should be changed around 10-12 years. If you push to 15, you're likely to end up with water on the floor.
I'm surprised the drain valve cooperated that easily. I would have tested the valve before attaching the hose. I've had a case where there was so much sediment, I had to turn the main water back on to get enough pressure to start the flow.
Awesome video, I feel like I can accomplish this task on mine now.
Draining water tank is also good in getting rid of sediment that collects over time.
I thought afterward that I should have Shop Vaccumed out the bottom of the tank while it was empty.
I wish I could drain my pituitary gland
Ps. I just learned about hot water recirculating systems and those should be mandatory, but maybe not because Elon just told me there’s plenty of water here on the west coast. He told me the hyperloop wasn’t strategic pseudoscientific misuse of what would’ve been a proven infrastructure project for public transport used to drill one lane tunnels too.
BRAD THERE IS A ROD ABOUT 3 TO 4 FT. LONG TO ATTRACT EXCESS SEDIMENT,
IT COMES OUT FROM THE TOP, THEN YOU SLIDE A NEW ONE IN. MOST HAVE ONE ?
That rod you mention is not to attract anything. It’s a sacrificial anode rod that actually dissolves to protect the tank from electrolysis damage.
This thread taught me something. Thanks!
@@yqwgjsg THANK YOU BRUCE !
Great showcase Brad! Well done, made it look easy!
Actually fashioned a spoon to clean the calcium out of the bottom of my tank. If I didn't clean the calcium out of the bottom. I would be lucky to get a year out of the new element. Seemed by cleaning the bottom of tank. It would considerably last way longer. Just a thought if you would have to do it again in a short while. Keep them coming Brad.
Same love your vids of any kind.
The calcium build up on your heating element makes me think your anodizing rod may be wore out and not doing its job. Its supposed to atrract and collect those minerals so it doesnt eat your tank.
This all seems suspiciously familiar. Cut the power, drain the reservoir, disconnect the heater wires, and replace some cooked components. 4,500 watts of output power though - that's about 90 KT120's!
FYI: I'm starting to get a sprinkling of Guitologist notifications. Maybe we've turned the corner?
Man water and electricity is fun.
What could go wrong.
Cool video! Thanks, Brad!
Next time you go into the Big Orange Box or Lowes... pick up a water heater element socket wrench. The socket is dirt cheap. Just a couple of bucks. Leave it sitting on top of the water heater. Use maybe once every 5-10 years, but you won't have to look for it.
Great job mate
Where do the strings go?
In the bathtub with the hot water.
It's interesting seeing how heating systems differ in the US. In the UK we mainly have combi boilers now that don't need water tanks and are very efficient ( also give instant heat and hot water, so no waiting for tanks to fill and heat up )
Oh we have tankless water heaters here too. First they’re not always the best fit for certain situations. Second, they’re very expensive. Third, you saw an electric water heater in this video. My home (and many others) use a natural gas heater which is less expensive to heat. Although all this will be changing as the Socialists Authoritarians using the hoax of man made climate change to force us all to do whatever they say whether it’s actually better or not.
The Ultimate fixerator!
Great video buddy
Do you think you may have ingested some of those burst-out insulation particles?
More knowledge is never enough!
Thanks bro! 🤜💥🤛
Here!
Do you not have any gas or oil boiler for water heating over there? In my system, we have a water tank upstairs with a heat exchanger coil inside, that carries hot water pumped directly from the oil boiler downstairs. A diverter valve lets you send the boiler feed to the water tank for hot water or to the radiators to heat the rooms.
There is an electric heating element inside the tank too, but that's generally only used as a backup.
Great job
Well done and with care for the changed elements... Now that the work has been done, how much does the labor cost and who pays for it? I'm serious, in your opinion, how much would something like this cost if it was done by a company? I also changed the heating element from the washing machine and it still looks the same... but after 11 years of operation (twice a week) I think that the heating resistance (2000 watts) was worth changing... 15 dollars (without workmanship, done by me) and it's still working for 3 and a half years already... now I got the bearing kit and the sealing gasket and I'm getting ready to break this work too.."gratis", maybe a bottle of beer after the "reception" " works by the owner... a big "Like" and as few interventions as possible.. Dan
Looked at the thumbnail and thought it was a Tim Pool video 😉
I can see that.
Wow that element was destroyed!!
It’s always best to have your heating elements wired out of phase for maximum hum cancellation. A quiet water heater is a happy water heater. 🤪🤪🤪
Looks like you probably need an anode rod as well.
Never a fun job but at least it's an easy one. Beware of those stupid plastic drain valves. A lot of times once you open it they never actually close properly and tend to leak
How does this effect your house insurance doing it yourself ?
Best video I've watched on this. Thanks for the detailed work
👍
I didnt know anyone still used electricity to heat water,,,kind of expensive ???
If you can’t do this job in pac man pajamas. What kind of man are yah?
That’s pretty much my motto.
You're german is impressive, good and tight is a good thing.. lol Great video man thanks for sharing it.
Hey Brad! Hope you'll manage to repair that. Those things can be real bombs...
I found a little video (it's in French, but you can activate the automatic translation) and would like to ask you what you think about it (if you have the time, to watch it!). Have a great day and take care!
The video:
ruclips.net/video/NWP1prjxKrg/видео.html
i hope you charged yourself $300.00 for labor and $75.00 for parts for the plumber house call !
Got out of this one for about $21. I work cheap.
Flashback arrestors or the like should be such an easily implemented oversight extrapolated into systems at large and they are, but the difference is integrity and misrepresentation is appealed to by the new religion of anti scientific stupidity because expectations of knowledge in a society with infinite availability of information must ideologically destroy the insurances to blow up the house.
Lol😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 BRAD was that a little hbo spoof