Does a Water Heater Really Need to be Drained and Flushed?
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2022
- Does your gas or electric water heater actually need to be drained and flushed every year or is this something completely unnecessary? For most people, it is better if they simply don't disturb their water heater and let it do its thing. No draining, no flushing, no replacing anode rods. Why do I say this? Simply because I have seen many old water heaters that were very old but never had any kind of maintenance done to them. I have also seen plenty of water heaters that needed to be replaced when they were under 10 years old even though the homeowner had flushed it every year, replaced the anode rod, and yanked the pressure relief valve on a yearly basis... Throughout the years, seeing all these water heaters brought me to a conclusion that draining and flushing a water heater is not necessary. For most people not doing this chore would only be a good thing.
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#howtodrainwaterheater #waterheater #waterheaterdraining #howtoflushwaterheater #wordofadvicetv
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, , our city water , although one of the cleanest in NA , has high calcium content . we do need to purge/flush it every year . maybe , could get by with 3 yrs interval. . my heater 28 yrs life span, i've replace the anode rod twice already, b4 she was FORCIBLY EUTHANIZED. .. . . most of the heater in the neigborhood, lasted short life span, under 8 yrs. , we think purging /flushing extend her productive life .
If you change the anode regularly, your water heater will last forever.
Where have this video been my entire life. Plenty of books I have read have said to drain it but never mentioned what he just mentioned about the 30 year water heaters to not touch them.
after your old one breaks and before your wife leaves you
Thank you
If its new flush it once a year , if its old and never flushed , don't touch it! Highly suggest however you change the anode rod !! #1 maintence tip for water heaters!! My opinion! Thanks! great video
I just posted a question about this stating same thing you said and asking what about changing the anode rod and cold water dip tube by draining no more than half of the tank water. Any thoughts?
@@ustaarthur change the anode rod for sure they’re but I’d say that is probably number one number two install an expansion tank
@@thewaterheaterfactory What about the dip tube? Lot of them disintegrate by half or more length which means your WH is not doing a proper job supplying hot water.
@@ustaarthur yeah you would have to inspect it and then if it needs to be replaced you replace it but I don’t run into a lot of disintegrated dip tubes I have seen them I don’t see them very often probably in Bradford White, if any Water Heater has them they’re very thin walled there
My WH is close to the ceiling so I can replace the anode rod by using a flexible one. As for the dip tube, I need to either take down the water heater or tilt it by at least 30 degrees or so. How can I do that without draining the entire WH? Can I drain 40-70% of it to make it lighter and then tilt it?
I had a 40 gal A.O.Smith gas water heater for 20 years. I did not do any maintenance like draining/ flushing or change anod rod. One day, I heard hissing noises and saw water coming out at the bottom, I knew it's time to replace it. when the plumber came to install the new one, he said that none of his clients has ever done any maintenance and their gas water heaters have lasted as long as mine, or even longer in some cases. He also said that in his experience, he sees that city water seems to have less sediments build-up than well water.
My dad replaced the family house's water heater in 1963; when we sold the house in 2015, the hot water heater was still working fine, never having been drained, and the anode was never replaced. And yes, the area had hard water. The advice not to flush, came from my dad's friend, a plumber by trade.
I bet that water heater company is totally out of business by now.
@@zone47 No. It's probably a Marathon/Rheem.
The heating element was probably buried in minerals, causing the heater to run nonstop. Just because it works doesn't mean it works well. He should have drained it annually.
Lol so much bad information here😂
This is the best comprehensive breakdown on RUclips for ALL of this.
I’m trying to change the anode and need to change and clean it due to my well system
Good advice! I had to replace a 15 yr old gas heater not too long ago. It was in such a bad shape that the hot water that would come out of my faucets was yellow. I dont think the previous owner of the house ever flushed it and also the water here is pretty hard. When I replaced the heater I decided to install a whole house filter and a water softener. The water quality is incredibly better now!
Thank you so much for your helpful information. I have no idea how to drain my water heater and it’s been doing just fine for like 10 years so I’m just going to leave it alone. I totally appreciate your help with this situation And your honesty and not trying to scare people about the situation.
Best and most honest explanation ever given. Thank you. 👍🙏🍻
This is the best video on flushing a water heater on youtube. I just flushed mine yesterday and hadn't seen this, but the process turned out exactly as you described. We have well water with a fair amount of sediment, so I decided that I'll do mine once a year.
Agree completely. Mine is 23 years old and has never been drained for flushed. And we have very hard water here as well.
This was a great video. Short to the point and my favorite part was all the helpful tips, have the hose same level or lower than the drain to make sure it flows fast, try blowing in the hose first to try and get the flow started, be careful with the pressure release valve, etc. Thank you
Thank you! The first minute is all I need to watch after I found you searching for pro tips on my 16 year old water heater that's still going.
My son and I always watch your "youtube videos. I really think you are the best, when it comes of troubleshooting, you explain things well and clear, and are very knowledgeble in your field. I always tell my son to watch your videos. He went to school for HVAC but he can't get job because they always ask for 2 year experience.
I learned that you need to strain the water if you have to empty the water down the drain and not outside. I drained an old water heater a few years ago and there was 2-3" of sediment in the bottom. The sediment completely filled the trap in my floor drain. CLR and vinager were taking too long so I sucked it all out with a flexible hose on my shopvac.
Another great video! With your help I have replaced my mom's regulator, dripping pressure relief valve & added an expansion tank! Her water pressure was running over 90psi. At a safe 60PSI now. Thx.
Awesome! Glad to hear you were able to get all of that done successfully! You're the man!
Very well done video! I watch quite a few and have been a licensed plumber more than three decades. Your advice is spot on. It could be beneficial to let the air out of a tub valve to avoid any issues with aerators. Thank you for all the great information!
I'm in the SoCal desert where our water does have lots of minerals in our underground aquifer-sourced water, and causes calcium buildup etc. So based on this, I guess we'd be in the minority of folks who should indeed flush our (gas) 40 gallon water heater. It is about 6 years old at this point. I flushed it once 3 years ago.
@@dwtubeyou Good luck if you decide to proceed. Let us know how it goes if you get a an extra minute!!
@@dwtubeyou Hey Dan.. we're neighbors.. how's the flush water from your tank look?
@@steven.h0629 Actually the person never showed up to drain the water heater, and a local pro counseled against it.
Excellent advice Sr. I been looking for a video that can explain everything you did in a simple way, but with all the details just like you did. Good job thank you!
Nice informative video. My new heater came with a manual that basically covered this. I always use Teflon tape on my fittings and the drain valve. I also added a water filter on the cold water line. When I open a faucet, I turn on the faucet farthest from the water heater. Just the way I do things, and your mileage may vary.
Thank you for opening with the most applicable advice right at the get go and not burying 3/4 through the video
This was really informative and reassured me that I wasn't a terrible person for not flushing mine. I am on city water and gas, hardly any sediment. I also learned the hard way not to open the pressure relief valve unless really necessary because it can be hard to get it to seal properly afterward.
Yes! We're not terrible people for ignoring our water heaters.
I have the original water heater and never touched it, now I'm worried because it's at least several decades old
This channel should be book marked and watched by anyone who owns a house.
Just be careful,I sometimes find myself binge watching this channel,lots of good stuff here!
I actually just did mine today. I've gone seven years without flushing and I live in an area with pretty hard water (even though I use a softener). It's a relief to know that I wasn't being neglectful by not doing it all this time, but I'm still kinda glad I did it because the water coming out of mine looked much worse than this.
Gas Water heater is 33 years old. We get mineral deposits on all faucets so we have hard water. Haven’t had soft water for the last 28 years as the unit died. Never flushed. The water heater. Had the pilot light electronics replaced a few years ago. Works great. Always delivers really hot water. Some manufacturer knew how to build this to last. Same with fridge and microwave.
Unbelievably good video, clear and thorough. My water heater is about 30 years old, never flushed by me, 2nd owner.
I don't know how often I need to drain my gas water heater, but I'm glad I did it at least once. For the first full minute or so, the water coming out of the hose looked like coffee! The next year wasn't nearly so bad.
I was fascinated by this video. It seems that most of the negative comments are including the fact that the sentiment with ruin the heating rods if you don't drain and flush. He specifically said at the beginning of the video that electric ones with the heating rods would require flushing more so than gas ones because of the build up on the rods. So some of the comments are people just being negative.
My wife and I watched the home inspector check the drain valve on our future home's water heater. It broke, and the tank dumped its guts all over the patio. Unfortunate for the seller, he had to fork over the money to replace the water heater. Goes to show that you shouldn't touch things that have been sitting for years like you mentioned. I'm sure that old water heater would have kept going if the inspector didn't touch it, but we were happy to have a brand new water heater for our new home.
Hello Jay, you are really number one, for past 3 months I was checking all appliances videos to learn how to fix problems, today I saw your videos, you are the best, you are number One, so Thank you so much for your kindly talking and making easy to understand, I really priciest your time
WOW ! You are a very good instructor. You are very detailed and very well explained. Thank you 🙏
When you flush your water heater you should pull the aerators from all the sink spouts to clean and also when refilling the tank to prevent particles of rust and sediment from stopping them up. Let the hot water run for about 2 minutes after the air is gone with the aerators removed.
I though about that while watching the video!!!
💞💕💪
You just don't !
Well and good but then there is the water line to the fridge and most heinous the filter in your washing machine. My advice...don't do it.
Yes, excellent advice. I removed the aerators on some sinks but not all. A much better outcome on those that were removed - thanks!
What I do I drain about 3 to 5 gallons every 3 months, sometimes there is a lot of sediment sitting on bottom. But I never drain the entire tank. Great video.
Excellent, clear straight to the point video. Very helpful. Thank you!
EXCELLENT video with extra information in all the right places!
You're absolutely right. 19 year old water heater, no problems till I flushed it. Got the drippy faucet immediately as you predicted, which I "fixed" with a plastic bottle cap.
Wish I'd watched this first.
Great video! Thanks! And I agree with you, leave the anode rod alone as most rods will wield themselves to the water heater and you might break it off and have to replace the water heater!
Amen! Going in to replace an anode rod and ending with replacing the water heater equates to one bad day...
Thank you very much for this advice. Infact, I did call my water heater company few weeks ago and they told me the same thing, don't touch as they would do it during the service which is three years after the first installation.
My house is 18 years old and both of my water heaters were never replaced. I'm not the original owner as I moved in 7 years ago. I've never drained my water heaters and I seriously doubt the original homeowner ever drained them either. I was thinking about doing that until I watched your video. I'm glad I did as I'm not going to touch them at all. I'll most likely be replacing my water heaters in the next 2-3 years.
I agree with you that if proper maintenance hasn’t been done for 5 years or more it’s probably too late. Flushing a new water heater once or twice a year will absolutely keep it from filling with mineral buildup, which will increase the life of the water heater. For me it’s common sense
I install water heaters in Denver, typical water heater life is only 12-14 here. Water quality issues. Your channel is EXCELLENT.
You have given proper details of flushing cycles.....other videos do not provide that, which is crucial. Thanks
This is the best video I have seen for the process. Thank you!
Very informative and understandable, even to a layman like myself. Good job.
It usually depends on whether you have city or well water. Either way, drain your water heater once a year for 2 tears, that will tell you if you need to drain it regularly or not. I leave everything closed but the main w/h supply, that way I power flush AND it stirs up any sediment on the bottom. ALWAYS use a tub spout to purge air and junk from the pipes so as not to clog aerators on faucets. But you did a good job. Keep being helpful.
great video with good explanation, particularly for DIYers on the possible leaks at the pressure relief valve and the open/shut valve and ways to fix the leaks :)
Yeah, I tend to agree with that to a degree. Maintaining things is always a good idea, exercising valves regularly helps with those pesky things from getting stuck...and draining and flushing tanks depends on water quality. But mainly what I see is anode issues.
i just replaced mine lasted 30 years never flushed once . i totally agree on this .
living in the city, I flushed my after 10 years... and the water is clear. His explanation makes sense. flushing is needed if you take in rain water and other ways that make system dirty.
Same here. I drained my electric one at the end of its life and found no buildup inside. I guess it depends on your water supply entity and how they treat the water.
I have a tankless running on 13 years never drained once
meanwhile my water heater collects kilograms of calcium deposits per year. the previous one was never flushed and was completely useless at 15 years.
We have been using the same 25 gallon electric water heater for 27 years and I don't know how old it was when we bought the place ..... never done anything with it. Always works fine and delivers plenty of hot water.
I had a well with water that is heavy in minerals.
The build up of minerals in the tank eventually cause a rumbling sound while the water heats and boils water causing mineral to stir around.
Nothing to worry about.
Even though my pipes are many decades old with LOTS of build up in them
setting pressure to 35-55 psi provides all the flow I need.
Good Advice. After moving into our new 10 year old house I decided to replace the old 40gal electric tank with a new 50Gal electric water heater. (Needed more hot water to fill the Jacuzzi style tub) That was 30 years ago! We live on a well with hard water and high mineral so I also installed a pleated sediment filter on the incoming supply line. Other than replacing the sediment filter once or twice a year I have never drained the water tank or changed the anode rod... I just leave it alone to do its thing. Still going strong.
Very good and informative videos. Your presentations are not only informative .. but fun to watch.
I'm so happy to hear you say not to drain...It really depends on where you live...I've been installing them for over 30 years, I wouldn't drain one, and nobody I know ever does... We usually get 12-15 years on ours..
I live in an area with high lime and iron content in the water. It’s best to just expect 10 -15 years out of your water heater. Trying to do flushing really doesn’t extend their lifespan and might just shorten their lifespan when thins go snap.
Not after 4-5 years
In arizona expect a third less than average life.
We have well water here. If you dont drain you end up with a rotted out mess in no time.
Not anymore buddy, southern California has bad water with chemicals and minerals that cause many problems with the water heater tank Also because of NAFTA types making America do cheaper water heater
Great informative video. I've lived in my 14-year-old house since new. The contractor recommended draining and flushing the water heater every year! I have successfully ignored that advice year after year, mainly out of laziness. My WH is in an attached storage room on the rear of the house (along w/ the breaker box) so it wouldn't be much of a chore to do. My WH even has a spigot drain valve on it. Town water is good quality and not hard at all. Seems my course of action will be as you recommend. Thanks!
Your spot on read me comment bobcd5
thank you for all the information . you guy making the difference in honest services.
THANK YOU , NICE CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS, LOUD CLEAR AND WELL SPOKEN..
Thank you for showing me the internals of a water heater. I live in an extremely hard water area. I didn't even know that people can replace heating elements in water heaters. I imagine the drain valves could be replaced as well if you know how.
Thanks for giving us such an excellent overview and look at water heater design.
Yes there’s a few videos on how to drain the whole tank then convert the drain valve to a bigger valve with a open/close handle like seen on the cold water intake valve. This allows it to drain faster and bigger chunks of sediment can fit through without clogging, and it’s convenient to open and close without a screw driver.
not only can be easily replaced once drained but you can buy whats called a "full flow valve" where the hole in the ball valve stays the size of the hose connection the whole way thru, thats what I did, it got so much more out of the tank then what would come out on the stock valve.
I have zero knowledge about the heaters but somehow I feel that you're quite right saying"leave it alone." It might not be right for all the cases but I guess good enough for the majority. just by your look I believe you're very frinedly, honest and trustworthy. sometimes experience tells more than theories on paper. I definitely believe in your experience.
YOU ABSOLUTELY should check the pressure relief valve yearly to ensure it works properly. If your thermostat were to go out and the valve is stuck closed, your water would heat until it's boiling, building up so much pressure in the tank that it will explode.
What an excellent video. Everything was spot on and practical.
Really useful video thanks so much for posting.
The hot water tank in my first home was there when i moved in and still working 27 years later when I moved out. Never even thought of draining it. The tank in my current home was not new when we moved in and still ( knock on wood) working 19 years later. Never drained it.
We decided to install a whole house water filter on the cold in supply. Figured it was a good idea to catch any sand etc. from the water source before it went into the water heater. That has helped prevent sand build up over the years.
Great video!!! Was just about to drain my water heater that wasn’t drained for 10+ years
It all depends on how hard your municipal water source is. Where I live, it is essentially liquid rock, and I will accrete lots of sludge which I flush out every 6 months. The stuff makes the water heater take longer to heat up, and the heater makes bumping noises when it is full of that junk. After flushing, it operates like new for a while.
Sounds like getting a filtration system would be better.
And where is this area you live?
@@jeremyb5740 Central IL
@@jeffhurckes190 I guess it's well water then??? Not city?
@@jeremyb5740 city water.
Some people I don't know if I can trust farther than I can spit... With you, I feel like I can trust you whole heartedly.
Thanks for your sincere willingness to help which is so obvious in your videos!
Nice video. I had to replace my old heater with a new electric heater, which was expensive and not easy to do. The manual said something like the expected life of the glass liner was only 6 years. I checked the anode rod after 2 years and it was gone. Replaced it with a new rod, checked that later, and half of it was gone again. Decided to flush the heater, and a couple handfuls of white crystals came out. It's easy to maintain so I guess I'll keep flushing and checking the anode rod.
There’s a new electric anode that’s about a foot long. Very low current and goes in place of old one. Doesn’t wear out.
To save all of that bs, i simply installed a good filter on the supply line from the city. And change the cartridge every 6 months‼️. Works amazing. And no trash/debris in my system anywhere‼️
Cheers‼️
Nice to know this! My first water heater (gas) went out after 8 years. Had a leak in the bottom. So I got a new one installed and have been draining it annually since 2018. I used a clear hose just to the floor drain in the basement about 2 feet, and I have not seen one bit of dirt or sediment in the three times I've drained/flushed it. I have a water softener, so that helps with the hard water. Well, I thought some sediment might have contributed to the bottom wearing out. I guess not. Anyway NO MORE DRAINING for me!!! Thank you for saving me that hassle from now on!!! :)
You have a water softener, so not necessary the drain water heater because no calcium/sediment buildup. However, if you didn't have a water softener and you have hard water it is best to drain the water heater once a year.
try catching some of the water in a clean bowl, water may appear clear and still have sediment, when I flushed mine I had to "collect samples" of the draining water to tell when the sediment stopped, because it's so fine you don't see it in the flow of water.
Your advice was good for us. Our water heater lasted 19 years and we did nothing to it. Of course it died on us two months before I was gonna replace it.😂 Our water was so good that there was barely any deposits inside the water heater.
Y’all had good clean water going in
Thank God for RUclips, every point you made makes absolutely sense, thanks
Very good video for the home owner with clear infos and advices!!!
If you are going to flush a tank regularly, you should probably swap out the anode rod every few years. One thing that can cause hot water tanks to fail early is minerals attacking the lining...the anode can become saturated with minerals more frequently from well or hard water, so definitely swap that out if you're flushing the tank.
"...swap [the anode rod] out if you're flushing the tank." So a new anode 4 or 5 times per year? 🙂
@@JxH That's a lot of tank flushing. Why 4-5 times per year? I'd change out the anode once every 2-3 years, not necessary to replace it more often unless the mineral content of your water is really bad.
Never replaced an anode rod and water heater lasted from 2004 to 2021, and still going when I sold the house. Flushed it twice. Different house, new water heater, and city water and a water softener; I see no reason to fool with it. BTW, I had no sediment that times I've flushed the other water heater. For me and water heaters, it's a "if it ain't broke, leave it be."
@@Al_Z.Heimerthe anode rod prevents corrosion of the tank. The tank is made of steel, and the anode rodis made of magnesium, which is a less noble metal, and it will corrode first before the steel. Much like steel will corrode before copper.
If you don't replace it, then the tank will corrode after a number of years and start leaking. If you replace the anode rod, the tank corrosion will be shortened significantly. An anode rod is about $40, a new tank installed is probably $1000.
@@JxH "swap out the anode rod every few years"
My hot water heater is 25 years old. Never touched it. Still works. It is natural gas.
Thanks for your detailed flushing tips which I was not aware of - take care!
The water heater in my old trailer house lasted 40 years and it was never flushed. It was a electric water heater. My house is 15 years old with a gas water heater. No issues so far.
I installed my Rheem self-cleaning water heater in 1998. I flush the sediment with full pressure twice a year. It still works perfectly. The secret - never heat the water to over 120° to 125°. The way the glass doesn't expand/contract beyond it's tolerances then crack.
Passively draining (emptying the tank) just doesn't power sediment out.
135-140F is recommended to prevent dangerous bacteria..just saying..
@@johncspine2787 Thanks for the note, I hadn't considered that.
@@johncspine2787 It is a delicate balance - more than 140F risks scalds (modern plumbing codes require antiscald valves that allow the heater to be run hotter than otherwise) and below 135F invites bacteria to the party.
@@flagmichael maybe ideally we bring modern electronics to the show, and either sterilize incoming/outgoing water w UV, or in the middle of the night raise the temp of the water to kill bacteria, although in print the UV idea looks better,..
Recommended temps are 120-140 depending on which gov agency or manufacturer you ask. Some bacteria will still survive to 118 degrees. I make sure the furthest faucet from the water heater is 125 just to be safe. Higher than that is not neccessary for most and wastes energy. Pays to do some reaserch to come up what works for you.
This was all good information and covered even some "what if leaks" after the flush. My friend had a 10 year old electric water heater start leaking from a bad rusted out tank and had to be replaced. I went over to do the replacement. He owned the second floor of the home. I forget for sure what they call that type of home. Maybe a condo? Because he never flushed even a gallon or 3 out the drain valve over the 10 years I could not drain the water from the tank. The sediment had clogged the bottom drain and built up past it. 40 gallons of water weighs 335 pounds or so, there was no way to safely move it from the second floor down the steps. I could not remove the valve or lower heating element because then I would not be able to control 40 gallons of water rushing out. I removed the top pressure relief valve and put a hose down in the tank to "siphon" the water out that way. After "siphoning" most of the water out we were able to move the old tank and install the new one. Problem was it took awhile (about two hours) to "siphon" 40 gallons. I recommend, about every year or so to open the bottom drain valve and drain a few gallons (3 to 5) to keep the drain open of a "new" water heater. It helps removing some sediment and keeps the valve open so when replacement time comes around again, and it will, you can drain from the bottom faster. If your water heater is old Word of Advice TV is correct in telling you not to touch it, the drain is probably already clogged and other leaks may occur.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That sounds like it was one long day but good to hear that you were able to get it done in the end. We appreciate the story and tips!
Well explained with clear details. 👍
This was really an excellent video. I've been flushing my hot water heater. I barely have stuff come out. But, it's nice to see that I should have opened the water supply line to give it pressure.
as a plumber I would never advise anyone to open their relief valve unless they are plan on replacing it. Opening the hot side of faucets while draining or pumping down a water heater is always safer and much easier
My hot water tank is about 10 years old and is not producing hot water. As we have acidic well water and have never drained/flushed it, I'm thinking that one or both elements have to be replaced. But I'm afraid to use the drain because I think it may clog up and not be able to get closed again. I'm thinking of draining it from the element locations, which I know is going to be a mess and a half, but better than having to buy a whole new entire unit etc.
Once I have it mostly drained, is there a way to remove the old drain and replace it with a ball valve type drain, and if so, is that hard to do?
Thank you.
@@justinw1765 You can do that and we have done this in the past using a 3/4" Brass Nipple>3/4" IPS Ball Valve>3/4" Male Hose x 3/4" MNPT + 3/4" Hose Cap however I would only recommend this in specific situations, most water heater drain valves today are 1/4 turn ball valves just have a smaller port than the method I described, and unless you absolutely need a larger port, than I would stick with a standard water heater drain, the only time I have upgraded the drain using the method described above was in a commercial setting (a vet hospital) where the water heater - which was electric, produced tons of calcium and sediment build up and needed to be flushed every month along with water filter changes to avoid their veterinarian washing equipment and washing machines from getting clogged. I would say that in your situation, if your going to invest any money into servicing that thing, you are much better off investing that towards a replacement, who knows how much longer that thing will last, if your just going to try and fix it yourself and not pay a plumber to do it than maybe it's a risk your willing to take, in which I would say that you should be very careful, and still be prepared to replace it if going this route because its not uncommon for an old tank to fail like this, sit cold for awhile, then once its repaired, up and running again and you turn up the heat, it develops, exposes/worsens a leak from a compromised inner tank. Not only that, but replacing the elements may not be all your water heater needs, if the old dip tube inside broke off (this is pretty common) than even with new elements you may still find yourself having hot water only for a few minutes then temps dropping to luke warm because your tank will be filling into the top and not down to the bottom and your water heater is basically very inefficient at this point. I don't even want to think about the anode rod in that thing and the corrosion on the tank that may have already been setting in for years. In a nut shell, where I work, we have to provide professional, reliable service that will last for our customers and for an old water heater like this, the only repair option that we're able to provide will include replacing pretty much all of the components which will not only cost a good chunk of change, but will have no guarantee or warranty due to the age of the tank. In almost all cases this does not make sense to do financially.
@@JUICE-wk2tz Thank you very much JUICE for the thorough reply and advice. Yeah, I'm going to try to fix it myself first, but if I do need to get a plumber involved, I'll look into possibly replacing it. I plan on changing out the elements/thermostats and also the anode. I hear you on the possible leak developing. I guess after the switch outs and if it works, I'll just have to keep a sharp/constant eye on it for awhile.
Thanks again
Totally agree. When I was a newbie homeowner, I was like “I’m going to do all of my home maintenance exactly per the schedule. It will save me time, money and grief in the long run.” Well the first time I flushed my water heater, there was so much sediment at the bottom, I could not get the drain valve to stop leaking. So I replaced a year old water heater.
So yeah, if it ain’t broke then don’t fix it!👍
I hope your drinking water is filtered! That much build up in only a year is...pretty scary.
@@oscarbanana6159 no worries, I moved from that house 20 years ago, lol.
What a shame. Any hardware store generally carries a thread on cap with seal which you could have put on the valve to stop the leak and no had to replace your heater. Put it on and take it off easily as needed. Couple of dollars.
@@robertmerrill621 it was a learning experience for sure. And there was so much sediment in there it is unexplainable.
Great video I did notice I drain my water heater for the first time after 10 years I got a plug to prevent any future leakage on the drain valve. I was amazed my gas bill went down from $15 a month to $5 a month!
You saved me a ton of potential stress. Thanks!
I have to say- I LOVE all your videos. They're so well made, informative and clearly explained.
Do you think the 20, 30, or 40 year old water heaters you worked on, that were never flushed, and worked well is because appliances were over-engineered and well built decades ago? It seems like nowadays, appliances are built to last through the minimum of their warranty, and use parts built to minimum specs with thin gauge metal?
Just wondering what you think about this theory- and if any water heater about 7 years old and newer should be maintained on a regular basis?
I believe you are spot on-I still have my receipt from the one I bought at Lowe's in 97 I thought about flushing it at 10 yrs old but I thought I'd leave well enough alone and its now 26 yrs old and I inspect it to make sure its not rusting out and leaking. I just saw where Biden is going after Water Heaters also so I'm going to buy a new one to put in my shed when/if this one finally bites the bullet. My heater came with a lifetime warranty but I'm pretty sure Lowe's wont honor it after 26 yrs-LOL...
Made in the REAL USA,, before we sold out to the commies (DemonCraps)
@@tonyjordan1320
Lifetime replacements are like car battery replacements. The compensation is for the original tank price, not for a replacement tank. By now, the same sized replacement tank costs substantially more than the original.
I believe tanks today will also last 20 years or longer when the water quality is good and there isn't a water softener.
I would advise against vacuuming out any of the sludge from the bottom heating element hole. The reason why is that unless you clean up and remove every last spec of debris you’ll end up with it floating up and out of your tank to clog your faucets again and again. Vacuuming disturbs the sludge. This happened to me years ago and I had non-stop clogging of my faucets in my house from the calcite left over in the tank. After a couple of weeks of it I ended up jury rigging a filter I made and putting it in the hot port hole at the top. That stopped the debris coming through into my water lines.
When you install the heater, replace the drain valve with a 3/4 ball valve, a hose connector, and a hose cap. ( you don't want a kid throwing that valve ) I flushed my heater yesterday. Valve full open to fill a 5 gallon bucket, then wait 10 minutes, let things settle, then fill another bucket. I write the date on a piece of tape I put onto the heater. I try for every 6 months.
Almost took the "leave it alone" advice, and I understand the reason(s) for it, but I know that there is a lot of potential calcified(?) buildup lurking in our city water supply (NW Wichita, KS) so I plan to carefully deal w/ the valve(s) and try to nip any issues before something goes wrong by draining, etc. the tank. Great video!. Thanks.
Excellent explanation; in my case we have an State 80 gallon electric water heater and we also have lots of minerals; the first year after I installed it we had to replace the bottom element after thorough flushing; maybe we did a second flush 10 years later. The unit its still working after 24 years. The shocker is the cost of a new heater; inflation???
Yep. It is amazing how much new ones cost.
30+ years plumbing/general contractor. I explain this A LOT to clients before replacing tanks. Hot water heaters purchased before and after April 2015 are completely different. In 97 they manufactured the high efficiencies and mandate in US in 2015. Early models do not need flushing except extreme circumstances and can last almost 40 years. Getting 20 years out of new high efficiency is vary rare and 10 is pretty good. Iron deposits will now eat through the thin wall of your new tank fast. Do not turn off the heat and water. Attach a hose and crack the drain. When it runs clean open it a bit more step by step until wide open. Messing with old valves and delicate new thermostats is a good way to create an expensive repair. Tank drain valves are cheap and easy to replace. Had to replace a thermostat, flame sensor, shut off valve and flush the lines just yesterday cause the new hire did everything like this video on a "new" heater.
LOL, You scare me , as I have a water heater in a Jim Walter home built in 2002. LOL
I know, if there is ever a problem with my E-water heater , I will simply replace it. (knock on wood ;).
Yea, Any-body spouting off about new/recent gov mandates and thus know how they actually work, is a friend of mine. LOL
Regards gueto :)
No such thing as a "hot water heater" and flushing a water heater is to remove calcium, not iron.
@@abrahamsims6266 LOL, wait 20 more years maybe.Ain't nobody typing books here
@@abrahamsims6266 You remove both and a lot more. Calcium scales on the surface of the porcelain liner making the heater slightly less efficient. Iron oxide on the other hand penitraits the porcelain liner. It carries oxygen from the heated H2O to the tank wall. So are you flushing for the pennies saved in energy or to save the $500 tank?
Totally true, if someone has experience like you and I, having a service schedule from the beginning of a new purchase is the only way to go. I never try to bring something back from the dead, but can keep something new running for as long as it can. The quality of the water also has such an influence on long term operation as well.
I got a free 40 gallon tank from a neighbor. It had broken the plastic down fill tube that sent cold water to the bottom of the tank. So, cold water just looped over to the hot water exit. Now I ise it for free PV solar hot water for my laundry. I filled a 5 gallon bucket with lime scale and old anode deposits. It was a laborious task to clean it out removing the valve and stirring contents with thick wire.
Well presented. I had two heaters both of which lasted about 18 years without draining.
Yeah, I live in a very hard water area and my first wh lasted 25 years without ever being drained. My current one is on year 14 and I drained it once around the 2 year mark. At this point I will leave it alone until it dies. Ideally when this one dies a new one will very likely be the last one I need to buy.
Awesome presentation and of course as always a very pragmatic approach with excellent tips!!
You are amazing! Thank you!!
You're welcome! Glad you liked the video! 👍🙂
Thank you for stopping by, have a fantastic weekend James!
Great explanation of the decision making process! Totally makes sense. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for stopping by! 🙂
Great information, I have an electric water for over 15 and never drain it. Still working great and scare if I drain, it might cause more issue.
I think it’s best to maintain your water heater per the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the warranty. Water quality is a big factor for sure and will probably dictate how often you need to flush the tank. The other item to check is the anode rod, they don’t last forever. Thanks for the vid.
That is indeed the recommended approach. Thank you for pointing that out Tony!
Also worth noting to take off the screen catches at the faucet so that you don't get sediment buildup in there when you reintroduce water to the tank
The who 2 perform the maintenance depends on their acumen, which is not a common attribute that is not many (or most) have!
Why don't they put a descaling solution in them and run it on a pump for an hour like they recommend for tankless?
What always gets me about the anode rod is there is no way to really take it out at least not where it is in my house. Only way I can see to take it out and replace it is to drain it, lay the entire unit on the ground on it's side then get at it.
It depends on the design as well as the hardness of your water. Some water heaters of the new design actually actively keep any sediment activated and drains when you use the tank. Draining is easy, there are several videos that show how to do it. It's more important to replace the anode in the tank.
If water is hard, anode is useless. Hard water protects the tank from corrosion
Intelligent answer.
I bought a used five year old 60 gallon electric water heater and both elements were burned out. While replacing them the lower one was embedded in mineral scale. I had to remove 12 to 14 inches of sediment scale before I could use it again. So it depends on how hard your water is. I drain my tank every few months and replaced the lower valve with a full flow quarter turn one, no leaks.
Thank you. I, too, have seen including our home and growing up. Never touch the water heater and appreciate what you said. We had them for years! Thank you for your honesty. I think it depends on water quality. You are great. I will add, though, as my mom taught me, always change the furnace filters regularly!!
Don't listen to this. For two main reasons.
1. Just to maintain your warranty
2. Sediment in your tank can lead to other issues further down your pipes. Ex. Sediment causes rust and that now puts iron in your water, PH imbalance causing issues in copper pipes, hard water. If you have sulfur in your water guaranteed that your rod is more than likely magnesium and completely fouled up.
I just had my water heater replaced due to a rusted out bottom from years of sediment build up. The tank was leaking on the floor because the bottom had rusted through causing a very small hole which caused the water to leak out. The water itself where I live is "hard" water. No softeners installed which caused severe damage to the bottom of the tank after 15 years. I think it was flushed mabye once or twice in 15 years. Plumber that installed the new tank said it should be flushed once a year to prevent sediment build up.
mine rusted too,
That’s not why they rust out. It was sitting on the floor or got wet. 🙄
i have well water and even with a filter a found i had collected 2 inches of lime stone sediment after 23 years. i had flushed it about every two years but replacing the plastic valve and using a vacuum cleaner and pushing a bendable hose did the job.
Thanks for your video.
I've flushed my water heater. Usually I do it every three months. I don't flush completely. I just let a few gallons out at a time. The last time, I messed up by not turning off the water first. A rush of water came out of the hose. Instead of the usual minimal amount of build-up, I got a lot. I use a screen to collect the sediment. I quickly directed the hose down the drain. But, as I say, I was impressed by how much came out.