2 EASY WAYS To Flush/Drain WATER HEATERS! (Pro Plumber Tips For Flushing Your Water Heater GAS/ELEC)
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- Опубликовано: 24 июн 2022
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Homeowners should flush/drain their conventional tank water heaters at least once a year. This short video from The Honest Carpenter and Brent Clifford of Eco Plumbers in Hilliard, OH, will show you two easy methods for flushing your water heater!
2 EASY WAYS To Flush/Drain WATER HEATERS! (Pro Plumber Tips For Flushing Your Water Heater GAS/ELEC)
A good, modern water heater can reasonably be expected to last up to 12 years if properly maintained.
But the biggest detriment to water heater lifespan is SEDIMENT BUILDUP.
Drinking water contains minerals, such as CALCIUM, POTASSIUM AND MAGNESIUM. When water sits undisturbed in a tank water heater for hours at a time, these heavier minerals will gradually fall to the bottom of the tank.
Down here, the minerals collect into a hard slurry. This slurry dampens the effecitveness of the heater, and the minerals also eat away at the walls of the tank.
The ANODE ROD in the tank water heater is meant draw some of the minerals, but it can't get them all. So, it's a good idea to flush or drain the water heater tank at least annually!
There are two easy methods for doing this...
POWER FLUSH METHOD: Simply hook a garden hose up to the boiler assembly drain line at the bottom of the tank. Leave the cold water supply on, turn the 360 ball valve on the drain line, and let the hot water in the tank slowly be replaced with cold water form above. The swirling action of the new water in the line will stir up sediment, kicking it out through the spigot at the bottom. Then turn off ball valve, unhook and rain hose, and you're done.
GRAVITY DRAIN METHOD: Shut off the cold water supply, and turn the heating element off (electric), or dial down to pilot, away or vacation mode (gas). Hook up a hose to the valve at the bottom of the unit, and open the valve. (Lead hose somewhere outside or into a functioning drain.) Turn on several hot water taps in the house to allow air into the system. The Unit will slowly drain, flushing out sediment. When it is finished, turn off the lower valve, unhook the hose, turn on the cold water supply. When the tank is full again, turn off upstairs faucets, and switch back on the heating element, or turn the gas dial back up to desired temp.
Thanks for watching!
The Honest Carpenter 
Хобби
This is really excellent. Always great to see an expert do a demo. Thanks!
Thank you so much Brent, Eco Plumbers, and The Honest Carpenter! My husband and I have to do this for our water heater. We are both newbies at this, so this tutorial is so appreciated!!!
Best video I've come across for guidance on how to do this for a gas water heater. Concise, well put together, and informative. Thank you!
Excellent explanation. I did a combination of both methods, gravity and cold water pressure. Back and forth also manipulating the drain hose to see if any sediment would break free. As other have suggested, if I run into problems with sediment and have to do another flush I will replace the drain valve with a larger size like 3/4 ball. Ours is 75 gallon so I'd like to extend its life as much as possible before replacing.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This was the easiest method I've seen by far. I love how you explained at the end to keep the hot water valves open while you're refiling the tank to get the air out of the system. So many other videos either skip that step or want you to mess around with the air pressure valve, which I am afraid to do as I heard too many horror stories about that.
This often forgotten procedure not only preserves the heater, but insures your energy costs, gas or electric, go toward making hot water and not toward making rocks. Thanks, Ethan!
Thank you for this video! I just bought a house and found out that this was something you need to do this. Thanks for sharing now I feel confident to do it on my own!
That was so clearly explained...like all your stuff! Thank you. We have not yet flushed our water heater and since we're on well water I expect lots of gritty sediment.
thank you. He seems like a honest plumber who I'd hire without question.
During flushing process, pulse the cold water supply off and on several times to disrupt and wash out more sediment. If partially or fully draining tank, it would be a good time to extract and check the anode rod. I've also heard that using a garden hose (attached to cold water supply, obviously) with a spray nozzle to spray down into the top of the emptied tank while the anode rod is out can help flush out the sediment.
I've had problems with using garden hose to drain because it gets clogged with sediment -- especially a very long hose to take the water out of a walk-out basement. I may look for a way to transition from garden hose thread to a discharge hose (like blue pool discharge hose}.
I always power flush into a white 5 gallon paint bucket, watching the sediment, emptying it, repeating until I stop getting sediment. If you prefer, one can hold the discharge end of the hose and feel the outflowing stream; you will feel the particles hitting your fingers.
I've never heard of the power flush before. I will definitely use this because the stirring of the sediment should result in a more thorough cleaning.
Done this before but, this video is a GREAT reminder of how to do it. Thanks. Sure miss my Dad. He always came and showed me how to DIY!!!
Yep...I miss my dad too 😢
@@christhayil8354I miss mine too. But I’d be the one doing stuff instead of the other way around. He came back from the army quite messed up.
But…I can do most anything on my own at least, since I never had any help.
I do wish I had someone to call on tho to do things like this every now and then.
I just replaced a ballast and dang near broke my neck.
Hey man thanks for the great video. A new home owner here and this removed a lot of fear i had. For real, man, thank you from the bottom of my ❤.
I always remove the aerator from the faucets to avoid any possible sediment clogging them up. Also, using the bathtub hot side open works really well.
Hola! 🖐 Excellent video, very useful information. I replaced my water heater about 6 - 7 years ago. The old one WAS SO HEAVY due to all the sediment that had settled, I had moved in shortly before the water heater went out. I now make sure to drain this one every six months, we have some really - extra "hard" water where I live (Southern California). I hope that a lot of people see this video and put this on their calendar just like changing batteries in smoke detectors, replacing filters in the refrigerator, etc. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Thank you. NOTHING beats regular maintenance!
Holy Crap!?! Who Knew?!? Thank you! I had anew heater installed one year ago and I needed to do this. I was not aware of the first method -I will use it. Another terrific presentation.Cheers!
Another very helpful video for DIYers. Thank you so much.
Looks like the power flush is the best method and easier to do. Thanks!
He made that quite easier than I thought it would be. Appreciate the info and great video.
Thanks Chuck! Power flush method is especially easy 😄
Kudos to you both! Excellent demonstration! Thanks a lot for demoing both the methods so clearly.
I had previously tried the Gravity drain method and it didn’t work quite well for me (some other video). I am glad I stumbled upon yours. I followed the 1st method you demonstrated i.e pressure flush drain and it worked so well. I connected a long hose to let the drain out in bath tub (my water heater is on 2nd floor inside a closet) and it worked like a charm. Thanks again!
This was very, clear, easy, and effective. Thanks.
Thanks, no time wasted very well explained!
Thanks for your work on this video. Brent presented these methods straightforward and understandable to all. I have to drain one at my father in laws house. It makes a gurgling sound and found your info. here. I didn't know about the pressure method by using the water supply to flush the tank. My drain access is slightly higher than the valve on the tank so it should work well.
Thanks for the informative video. I attach a small mesh sock or nylon netting on the end of the hose to see if any sediment is present in the tank. Thanks again
Great instructional video...thanks! Are there any additional steps required if you have an inline circulation pump connected to the drain valve (like unplug the pump, or bleeding the lines differently afterwards)? Thanks again for the informative video...
Great teaching lessons for the novice homeowner!
This is an excellent video. You guys made it so simple. Thanks a lot.
The power flush was really easy to do. Thanks!
Most detailed and accurate how to video thumbs up
Having grown up in Middleville, MI, I enjoyed the Bradford White callout.
Cheers and great video.
There is always one major problem with flushing/draining a water heater and that is the acutal drain valve used for above purpose. They are typically a hose bib type of valve and these all have a small orifice (about size of your pinky finder nail), This makes it very, very difficult to flush or especially drain the unit. This is especially true for older units that have a lot of built up sediment. As a retired GC whenever a new water was installed I had the plumber replace hose bib type drain valve with a 'full port ball valve' which provides a full 3/4" diameter opening for flushing/draining. Every 6 months I flush into blue 5 gal bucket a couple of times and thats it. If you wait a few minutes for sediment to settle in bucket you can see how much sediementf is removed.
I'm a handyman and I usely do the samething especially when I come across those plastic hose bibs on tanks
I took off the 1/2” valve and put a 3/4” ball valve
@@johnalarcon5006 Those plastic drain valves are a nightmare.
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Great video!!! I always thought that you HAD to turn off the supply. I've had my water heater for three years with no flush, recently moved into home and didn't feel comfortable messing with the old gate valve. My luck that the valve will be older than Methuselah and will start leaking if I start screwing around with it . Eventually I'll have it swapped out for a ball valve. I wanted to put my burner on pilot, connect my hose and like the video slowly flush the water heater until I get clear water.
Just installed a new electric water heater, thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for this video! The anode prevents corrosion of Fe--it would not prevent build up of CaCO3 & MgCO3 & other salt deposits. A water softener inlet line would prevent deposits from hard water, but as the Mg anodes corrodes, it would be the source of deposits! The Corro-Protec Powered Anode is conceivably the best route but are X 3 more expensive and consume electricity but claim to last for 20 years! And so a combo of water softener and the latter is the best route but is expensive.
Excellent video .. I would recommend to remove the aerator from the tap when bleeding the tank to prevent sediment in the aerator
Hi Ethan: I want to first say how much I enjoy your RUclips channel and your blog. I am a very new user of power tools with DIY projects -- your videos have been amazing to watch and I have learned much from them. I have tried to find classes in this area, but they seem to be sparse. Have you ever considered offering in-person classes -- they could focus on the proper, safe use of certain power tools (your video on the proper use of a circular saw is great), be project oriented or focus on a specific DIY topic. You are am amazing teacher and I think you'd do very well by offering classes in this area.
Plumber is a great teacher
Thanks Ethan for sharing this with us!
Great vid. Would love to see one about anode inspection/replacement/maintenance
Thank you done the cold first method worked fine and got hot water now back 👍👍
Awesome! Awesome! Simply an awesome video with simple detailed information. Thanks you!!
Thanks for sharing! I need to start doing that with mine going forward
The biggest cause of heater failure is expansions and contractions from setting the temp too hot. Cracks form in the protective coating and rust rapidly destroys the tank.
My 1989 heater, in hard water CA, works as good as new because I keep the temp low enough to not need much cold water to mix.
Also, I never replaced the original anode rod.
I flush it, with water supply on, every 2 to 3 years. I replaced the small plastic drain valve with a 3/4" ball valve.
I replaced the original inlet tube about 3 years ago.
If the tube breaks you'll get a very short amount of hot water because the incoming cold water quickly mixes with the upper hot water.
Never drain the tank because incoming oxygen will quickly corrode weak spots.
For the gravity drain, another video showed a good idea I think. After the tank is empty, open the inlet valve for 10-20 seconds to agitate the sediment and then drain it into a bucket. Repeat until the water in the bucket appears clear.
I installed my water heater in January 2019 and flushed it today for the first time! (yeah, I know I should've been doing it!). When I just drained the tank, there was very little sediment in it. But then I started a flushing process - Run the water for a few minutes . . . then tuen the cold water on for maybe a minute and then let it drain our. You wouldn't believe how much settlement came out that time! I've been repeated that flushing process maybe eight or 10 times and I probably got a full cup or a cup and a half of just sediment out! So, in my case, the initial draining did almost nothing but cycling several flashings really did clean the crap out of the bottom!
wow - Jan 2019here too! Just replaced anode rod...about to flush ---
@@LeLilley1
I’m not sure if we have the same set up in Australia only because I’ve never seen or heard of this procedure so I’ll be looking into it. I said this before and it’s true your channel is getting bigger and better. I’m loving this path with all different trades thanks for showing this clean out method
I didn't realize it was this easy. I made a contraption with a Y valve switch that shot air from my compressor into the drain valve to stir up the sediment. I probably didn't need it. It was pretty messy. I'm going to see if I can replace the sacrificial anode next.
This was extremely helpful & clearly explained. Thank you so much for this information. Be well.
Thank you, Millie!
@@TheHonestCarpenter yeah I was also a Bradford white hot water dealer and I had to get out of it due to factory mistakes and way to many came back leaking and of course Bradford white doesn't want you to ship the bad tanks back due to cost but they do pay awesome for the the promotion of their products though
@@TheHonestCarpenter and best way I have found out of all the tanks out there regardless of brand,is to convert it to bottom feed and it's easier than what people think
Great video and perfect timing! I have a Bradford White installed in 2005.
*Some folks say not to flush the water heater if it hasn’t been done annually, is there any truth to this? I’ve owned the house for a little over a year, so no idea if the WH was flushed on a regular basis.
Great info for a new homeowner
Great job both of you, thanks for sharing 👍🏻💥👏🏻
Thanks, I need to do this and this video showed me exactly how to.
Fantastic help guys! Thanks from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
Thanks for the awesome video flushed my water heater and working better keep up the good work one more question what else can I do besides flushing I have a gas one is there a filter or what do you recommend for setting temperature thanks again love your videos 👍👍💯
Gray presentation. I had to do a flush for a client a few years ago and it was bad. I went to do a gravity flush, relieved the pressure in the system but nothing would come out of the drain. I was afraid the drain itself was broken. So I took a length of copper wire from some scrap Romex and fished it into the drain and it was completely clogged with sediment. We have a ton of limestone here. I managed to free up enough to slowly drain the tank. Once it was drained I removed the heater elements and they were covered in sediment stuck a flashlight inside and I could see about 1½ inches of sediment so I stuck a shop vac hose in a sucked out out. The tank was still in great shape so I replaced the valve and the elements and it's been working great since.
Did you change the ANODE ROD ??
I hope so.
I'm 75 and NEVER heard about flushing a water heater until just last year. It is something I am NOT able to do by myself but I have mine flushed twice a year by the company that does the annual maintenance for my A/C and furnace. I live where the water is extremely hard and wish I had known about doing this 20 years ago. My water heater is soon to be replaced since I have it on the highest setting so that I have hot water.
Thank you you me feel better about doing my hot water tank now I think I can do it. My wife and I moved here 5 years now and the tank is electric so I do need to do soon .
Thank you, been meaning to do this, but wasn't confident enough to try.
I'll be doing this in the spring, thanks.
When doing the gravity drain method would it not be better to allow the first minute of flow when the pressure is turned back on to flow out the hose to prevent any residue of sediment to flow out the drain rather than into the system so as to not clog things at faucets?
Great video, I noticed you said older units do the power flush but what about newer units? Mine was installed a few years ago and I didn't know how to flush or drain it. I want to do the power flush as that seems like it would cause more of the sediment to be broken up than just draining.
Excellent video.
Just had a new water installed two days before watching this video and definitely will make it once a year flush. I probably will install a bigger ball valve.. minus well seeing its new
Great video. Nearly everyone I talk to doesn't ever read their manual. That would inform them that they need to do the flushing periodically. The "Master Plumber" said the heater came from his company. That would indicate that they did the install. I noticed the connections were created directly from steel to copper at the water in/out pipes. You really don't want to do that. You need 6" of brass between the 2 metals to prevent electrolysis...That's the way I was taught anyway...
Drive me nuts that water heaters come with steel nipples. A few more bucks for brass would prevent so many problems down the line.
Yes, it was surprising he pointed out the electrolysis corrosion without pointing out it was caused by an error that took place during installation.
I recently flushed mine after having to drain it to replace the gas valve that had quit working. I found it helpful to use a hose with two female ends to force water into the water heater from the drain valve. I am wondering what the advantage of opening a faucet is vs. just opening the pressure relief valve on the side of the tank to allow air into the system?
Thank you very much for such a detailed tutorial!!
super userful video. very grateful for it. for the power flush, it sure seems like it would be a good idea to turn off the elements just in case you release water at a faster rate than it refills, no? is there some harm that this could cause?
Last 12 years? When I bought my house in 1998 it had a gas water heater that was installed in 1978, I seem to remember it was AO Smith, it served me perfectly fine for about 15 years, it started to have a small leak around the drain valve inlet I guess where it was welded on, so I replaced it, after I took the tank out I cut it open, the inside of the tank was a nice clean grey no corrosion, but about a foot solid chunk of mineral buildup on the bottom, which was why I was never able to drain/flush it- the previous owners obviously didnt, but that water heater still lasted about 36 years!
I'm just going to go ahead now and save this video in my construction tips folder. I'll probably watch it soon though 😀
Thank you so much for your shared knowledge ❤️
Thanks for showing this, I've never tried the still active and on method. Wonder if I should now that it hasn't been done at all in about 7 years and I have hard water that builds up calcium deposits.
We had a water heater that made noises from sediment and it lasted 25 years with no maintenance ever done, and we had the hardest water you can imagine!
Given that the tank lasted for 25 years even with all that sediment, but consider how much your energy costs were increased as your heat source had to work harder to get through that sediment to heat the actual water!
@@patrickrogan8974 Didn't really see a change in our gas bill!
@@patrickrogan8974 SO, IMAGING HOW MUCH IN WATER HE OR SHE SAVED WITHOUT DOING THE STUPID THING.
There are a lot of opinions out there that flushing is a waste of time and not to bother.
Mine is 32 years old. Glass lined. I been here 8 years never did a thing to it
Best to remove bathroom tap aerator screen before flushing. Scale and sediment will be broken loose and clog screen after refilling tank .Don’t use kitchen tap to vent, refill as they are more difficult to service.
I've seen some tutorials suggest using the bathtub hot water valve to vent since they don't have an aerator screen
often have had good results from reverse flushing from the hot outlet. Easy to do. I turn off cold supply, empty tank, leave drain open, and then cap off any threaded single spout in the house and turn on that hot and cold together, causing cold water to flow in reverse to the tank hot outlet, and flushing down the walls and floor of the tank.
Im here because I have to replace my elements. Other video said to use a shop vac to suck out the sediment. I don't have a shop vac so I've found myself here. Thank you!
I installed 3/4" full port ball valves on the drains of my water heaters, for a much more vigorous flush. Some of the drain valves that come with the tanks have a very small opening, where any sediment larger than about 1/4" will clog it and stop the flow.
In my area, once a year flush seems to be plenty. Anode rods here last about 5 years before it is best to replace them -- I doubt that 5% of owners ever replace an anode rod.
How do you? Open it up?
From NZ.... this was something I hadn't thought of.....maybe it's time I did as we have been in this 2 b.room unit for 20 months now.
Inconveniently, the electric hotwater cylinder130 litres capacity is in the upstairs roof cavity so there's a challenge.
Sooner or later more worryingly it will need replacing...I worry about Cost but also how on Earth the nice plumbing men are going to get it down through the manhole which almost exactly fits the diameter.🇳🇿🌝
I actually use a combination of both methods. I start by draining the tank first. I then use the flush method second. The drain method in itself still leaves debris in the bottom of the tank. I’m guessing you would only need to use the flush method and eliminate the drain method. Good video thanks for sharing.
Jus drain it...fill it while drain hose is attached for a good flush?
@@edubb2491 I drain mine every summer for 10 minutes so far so good. I let the cold water run none stop.
The 1st of every month, I turn on the drain valve wide open for one minute. I keep a small section of hose connected to the tank all the time and the other end in the drain.
Great ideas to put to active use!
For heavy sediment, replace original drain valve with a 3/4" ball valve. Use an old plumber's snake preferably about 2-3 feet long. Open new ball valve, insert snake and then watch all the chunks flow out with ease.
Any video for reference?
be wary not to damage the heating element with the snake
Seems like that could break the dip tube or glass lining of the tank.
This year marks the 30th year (thirtieth) year of my hot water heater cranking out hot water and it was installed when we moved in. It may be 40 years old. She rocks super hot water everyday.
Thanks so much for this video.
Mine is over 35.5 years old. Still works great... knock on wood! They don't make them like they used to.
Did it die yet?
I moved into my house in 2014 and it had 2 identical (one gas, one electric) 50 gallon Ruud hot water tanks still working originally installed in 1988. I changed them both because I didn't want to chance it and the home insp. recommended it. The electric one is for the bathrooms and the gas is for everything else (kitchen, laundry, bars, garage, utility). I bought a gas Rheem Platinum 12 year with 2 anodes and an HTP lifetime stainless 5500w elec. But those Ruuds that where in there I doubt, in fact I'm pretty certain they never had the anodes changed. I think the dates on the tanks were 1987. They did have a decommissioned water softener (which I replaced) but I don't know how long they were on the softener. They weren't really heavy like they were all crusted up. I hauled both of them out of my basement myself after I drained them.
You convinced me to do it myself on my 2-year-old Rheem 50 gallon unit. It came with a plastic handle that was so simple to turn after connecting my garden hose. It was a full 3/4" opening. I did the power flush and crimped the garden hose a couple of times throughout the 15-20 minute process. Easy and remembered to write down the date in my owner's manual attached next to the water heater. Thanks for a great video!
Thank you very much! Super instructive.
Thank you excellent explanation!
When I was living in LA Ca. area I tried to flush my gas water tank 50 gal, because of some video. I even change the discharge to a bigger orifice valve. So I collected almost all of the water and put them in 35 gal drum and use the water for watering the plant while it discharge. I found out that I wasted my time since I didn't find any sediment accumulated, almost all the water are clear since my wife trying to save water. So now I don't flush any water heater, since my first house lasted about 15 years before it leak, on my second house 75 gal tank lasted about 17 years then it started leaking. So I just ignore the maintenance, since the sign of need replacement is when it start to leak.
Is there any downside to turning off the burner (and possibly using up the residual hot water from the tank via a shower or load of dishes/laundry), then doing the power flush with cool water instead of hot?
First time to see the power flush method I will give it try.
Thanks for the video, I didn’t know how to flush my water heater
You’d do yourself a favor by changing out the valve to a full port ball valve. It has a bigger opening to allow more sediment to come out. Plus the benefit of knowing when it’s closed or open. After draining is the perfect time to change this out.
When I turn the water back on to fill the tank I like to remove my showerhead, so there is no airader obstruction for the water that is being filled up often times it is dirty when it pops out and can fill up an air raider, or even blow off a aerator on a sink. with no showerhead on it just re-flows and gets all that gunky dirty water that’s left out.
This guy's such a champ
I flush my tank into a 5 gallon bucket and can readily see the sediment in the bucket. Empty the bucket and repeat till there’s no more sediment.
Good tip, thanks.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Shortened tank life is mainly galvanic corrosion and it occurs when the anode is completely eroded away . Inspect anode every 3 years (mark inspection date on tank) and replace when it reaches 50% or less, the inspection of 3 years is to keep threaded end of anode from completely seizing up and become non removable. Tank will last for decades when anode is replaced when needed at the cost about $30 compared to $500 to $1000 for a new tank. As for calcification, it doesn't flush out but builds up on all surfaces inside tank forming a solid calcium and silica mass. The best method of preventing this is to use an electric water demineralizer which will also reduce mineral stains in sink and faucet and even help soften hard water.
I live in an area with a lot of calcium. It has been my experience that most here get about 18-20 years out of a hot water heater at which point it's time to replace due to the sediment. As a former appliance repairman who also worked on water heaters, two things became apparent. First opening the drain on a water heater, especially an old one is a crap shoot. Some WILL develop leaks. A cap may fix it. Secondly, as a couple of others on here have noted, back flushing does very little to remove the sludge in the bottom of water heaters. There is just no good way to do it with the little hole you have to work with. (This is obviously by design of the mfg.) You'll get some, as evidenced at the end of your hose, but not much. Good luck.
You're absolutely right!
Excellent. Thanks.
Thanks, very simple
I use method one. Just FYI on one point. I save the flushed water in a garbage can and use it later for plants. One more question - what are the pros and cons of each method? Thx for an excellent video.
Are you concerned that over time there could be long term build up of various undesirables in the soil?
@@mitchelcline9759 I checked with my local Sierra Club guys who wholeheartedly endorsed my actions. The contents are mostly calcium salts and the impact on the soil is beneficial. Here in the San Diego area water is critical and I hate to waste water by draining my contents into the street drains.
@@kersi-sandiego6036 i haven't looked into it. I figured the city water part would be fine. I was wondering more about what types of things are produced from electrolysis between the water and electrodes? I've no idea how much or what all gets made from that and no idea what it would do to plants. To be safe i would personally not eat and plants from that method but i also don't know much about it just wondering
@@mitchelcline9759 Whatever works for you. However, I almost guarantee you that the water used at commercial farms and nurseries has far more virulent stuff than what's in the water heater. Anyway you have to do what's right for you. Thanks for your input.
You say a properly maintained water heater can last up to 12 years. I installed mine in 2006. I read on a Ridgid plumbers forum years ago that you should drain a couple o quarts of water once a month to get rid of any sediment. I have done that since it was new and the way I did it on mine was this. My water heater is in the garage next to the outside wall and on an 18 inch stand. A pipe from the pop off valve near the top of the water heater runs down the length off the water and out the wall where it would drain onto the sidewalk if needed. I cut a tee into this pipe below the level of the drain valve and then ran a section of permanently mounted hose from the drain valve to the tee and I also installed a ball valve at the tee to isolate this hose from the pipe. Once a month I go out to the garage and open the drain valve and guesstimate when I have drained a couple of quarts of water and then close the valve. Been doing this for 17 years and it works very well and is very easy to do as all I have to do once a month is open the drain valve for a few seconds.