Brad, since you are doing a remodel of an older home, I recommend you change out the insulation when you have walls open. Studies have shown today's insulation vs even 20-year-old insulation has enough of a difference that it should pay for itself within three years. You will also be able to close areas that are leaking or find where pests get in. I inherited a property that was less than 30 years old. I seals everything and changed the insulation. The difference between the previous gas bill and the current gas bill paid for the changes in the first year.
So, I'm old and have never done any plumbing (unless you count replacing a garbage disposal) and have no intention to start at this point in my life. But did I watch every minute of this video? Yes I did and found it very informative and well explained . 😊
Two years ago I replaced my galvanized pipes in my 1939 house with PEX. Absolutely great to work with. Flexibility is unbeatable. With the huge choice of fittings, very easy to retrofit onto almost anything. No fire, no flux, no solder. Was a no brainer for me. Need to splice something in, no prob. Cut, install fitting, crimp. Too simple. I even ran lines out to my garden. Can't praise this product enough.
You're relying on a rubber O ring at every coupling to remain water tight for decades tho. I've seen 60+ yr old copper that's still holding strong. O rings fail all the time.
@@rbhe357 Guess I neglected to specify I didn't use any Shark-Bite fittings. All my fittings are brass crimped on per specification. With the price of copper, this was the more affordable approach. After the research I did, I feel very comfortable with my choice. And, I do agree that o-rings can fail at any time.
@@robertsimonson5411 Me too. The only reason to have Sharkbite is to have a couple of caps on hand for emergencies with copper. You'll probably never need them, but if you do... It's kind of like insurance.
@@rbhe357 no question that a properly soldered copper connection is more secure however; do you stress over the main shut off valves installed, what about water meter feeding house, do you have any faucets or a refrigerator water lines installed? Any concern over these because they use rubber gaskets seal water in.
Thanks for a great video. Let me add what I've learned the hard way. Two years ago I replumbed my lake house (polybutylene) with PEX-B because the PEX-A tools were too expensive. I had the giant crimper tool, which works well, but it's hard to use in close quarters. One trick I learned to hold the crimp rings on is to squeeze them just a little to make them a couple of thousandths of an inch out of round. That way they stay where you put them. After crimping, they test just fine in all directions with the Go-NoGo gauge. I replumbed my home a few months ago. I waited until my wife was out of town for a week just in case things didn't go according to plan. We had a bathroom remodeled a few years ago and the plumber used PEX-A fittings. To connect A to B my plan was to use brass male to female NPT fittings, but I still had to figure out a way to get onto the PEX-A pipe. That's when I learned about the much cheaper manual PEX-A tools. I wish I had known about them earlier as they allow you to work in very tight quarters. You expand the pipe and clamp ring, then you have about 10 seconds to put the joint together. No wonder the pros use PEX-A! Plus PEX-A gives a higher flow rate. When finished, I tested my entire house with air before applying water. I really didn't want any water leaks in the attic, and I had leaks! None of my crimp connections leaked, but most of my NPT connections leaked, even when using pipe dope. I tested with air until the system would hold pressure for over a day with NO pressure loss.
I re-plumbed my bathroom and shower 2 years ago in PEX-A. There's a very inexpensive (about $40) PEX-A expander tool, you don't need the $500 fancy one!
My whole house is plumbed in pex. When I replaced my water heater, I just cut the pex and used Sharkbite fittings to couple back in. It works great and I've had no problems. Sharkbite also makes a tool for cleaning the end of the tubing and showing the insertion depth. Bill
Have some experience modifying my house to replace the old galvanised iron water lines with pex. (Very constricted water flow from all the rust and deposition.) Initially did some piecemeal swapping with Pex B, using a clamp ring for connections. One good thing we discovered about the clamps was that when we messed up, the clamp ring could be broken down by using bolt cutters to snip the clamp and the joint and ring came of easily. When shifting to replacing the main water line we switched over to Pex A, so it needed fewer connectors and had less constriction on those connectors. Also Sharkbites have been a lifesaver for years.
Holy Schnikies Batman!!! This video will literally save me time and money bc I'm about to tear out a super old and gross plywood laminate shower wall and replace the valves and spouts in the process. I'm likely going to see some galvanized piping and some copper so this video was right on time :)
I bend the pipes whenever possible instead of using elbows. Cheaper, less flow restriction. Only downside is it looks a bit wonkier. You can get elbows that help form & hold the PEX.
I mean… Home Depot sells a pex a expansion tool set for less than $140. I just re-did some plumbing and it was super simple to use. No messing around with crimp rings, no worrying about them leaking, not having to get a tool up in an awkward area. Expand the pipe in the ring, and then shove it on the fitting wherever it is. It also has the advantage of resting your water flow.
Great video Brad. Wish you had made this a few weeks ago when I had to do an emergency plumbing repair at home. As you, I am a copper guy. A 35 year old copper joint started to drip probably due to a cold joint. I decided to go PEX for the repair. Worked great. I prefer the clamp style fittings but I was working in a basement ceiling between studs and, for a while, I thought I would not be able to get the large clamping tool between the studs. This is where I would use the ratcheting crimping tool in future repairs. In the end, it all worked out. Thanks for your insightful content.
my god, man, your videos are awesome. clear and concise instructions. full explanation of the thought process together with pros & cons of options available. plus a full cost comparison breakdown. if you ever get tired of the diy thing, you should open a youtube academy!
If you just tap the crimp ring with the clamping tool while its on the pipe, it will tighten up just enough to keep it from sliding around while you position it. Then give it the full crimp.
Exactly this. I would position the crimp ring, and give it a squeeze with a needle-nose pliers and that was enough to keep it from shifting around while I used the larger clamping tool.
Im surprised that you didnt mention that for turning 90°, there are clamps that bend the pex pipe and hold it at 90° and keep it from collapsing. It negates the need for a 90° fitting and 2 crimps. They require more room to make the bend, but have no possible leak points.
I went with PEX A because I found a great deal on the Milwaukee Fuel expander tool on eBay listed as the non-fuel model, with charger and one battery in the case for $275. I just needed to re-route supply lines for the shower around the new abs p-trap drain connection to the old cast iron main. Plus, PEX A can use PEX B crimp connectors also in a pinch.
PEX is really great for renovations in the way that it's flexible, you can run it in an open bay like stiff wire, where copper is simply rigid. Also, with enough play you don't need to use 90° fittings. I had helped a friend with a vanity, the drain was immediately in the way of the copper pipe, we grabbed shark bite and a bit of PEX instead of a number of 90 or 45 fittings. Harder to quantify but the ease of use is game changing
I like the cinch clamps because they're easier to cinch in place and they're easier to remove. You can also get stainless steel versions of all the brass parts. The water from my well has a pH of 5, and over time it will eat brass fittings. I've since installed a water softening system, but before I had a chance to do that I had to replace a bunch of fittings that were heavily corroded (two, in fact, were dripping about 1 drop per hour). The stainless isn't that much more than the brass, but you do have to order them from somewhere like SupplyHouse. You also have to be aware that PEX can't be used anywhere it will be exposed to direct UV light. This isn't usually a problem once it's in use, but don't store any unused PEX outside.
@@JCWren and be cognizant of how your plumbing supplier is storing the pex. And never buy remnants off craigslist… you just don’t know how it was stored
Reworking a whole house from the 50s, went with pex a myself and copper and unions on the stuff that first hits the house (backflow, prv) for ease of maintenance. The big advantage I have found is that pex allows you to oreint things like a union joint but for far less money and hassle, although you get a lot less support on the joint which is amplified with a hot line. It is easy to mix copper and pex with sharkbites so you can have the best of both that way.
Your plumbing will be quieter with Pex A and using the expansion type fittings. These fittings don’t introduce restrictions like an inset fitting. FYI… shark bites only make me nervous when in an enclosed wall. I’m not sold that one O-ring will have the same lifespan as the Pipe. There are fine in open area like a garage (water heater) or in a crawlspace.
They're rated for behind the wall. As long as the pressure is at reasonable residential levels they're installed per the manufacturers instructions they're absolutely rock solid.
I did the very same project a few years ago. Started from scrap with crimpers etc. My first time with PEX was amazingly simple, compared to what other options may have been. You did a very job explaining your process. Thanks for sharing.
Im remodeled my home from the 1950s, Pex A all the way worth the money, higher flow rate than b and stronger, not to mention more flexible for turns. So yea i had to buy a dewalt expander but totally worth it. Also no clumsy tool easy to make connections in tight spaces.
This is so great! I’m sure my plumber will pass those savings onto me on my next project! Lol….between labor and his out of pocket expenses being lower….😊
I totally understand the initial cost reluctance for many DIY folks to go to Pex A instead of Pex B. But if you anticipate that you will be doing more than a single bathroom's worth of plumbing, you might be getting to the volume of work (the sheer number of connections you will be doing) where it might be worth just making the jump and use Pex A. Especially if you already have Milwaukee or DeWalt (or other mfg) battery-powered tools, you can find the Pex A expander without battery for well under $400. Even less if you look for used ones on e-Bay or Craig's List. Once you start to anticipate plumbing 2 or more bathrooms / kitchens, that cost difference may not seem like very much. Especially since, if you are doing a ton of connections, you will probably want a powered crimper even if you are doing Pex B - and those are just as expensive. Installing with Pex A really is simpler most of the time because the tool itself doesn't need to be applied right at the joint. With Pex A, you have to be able to get the crimping tool at the point of connection at the right angle to properly crimp the ring. Anybody who has done renovation plumbing knows that this is often a huge pain in the butt. With Pex A, you expand the end of the pipe (with the ring) while it is loose and accessible and then you push it over the connector and hold for a few seconds. And as long as you hold it seated all the way, it is almost foolproof. No guessing on crimp-ring alignment or whether you over/under crimped. It all just goes so much faster.
I went the clamp route with my pex fittings because the tool works with 3/8" up to 1" but the crimp style requires multiple tools to accommodate all those sizes. Also, I bought the masterforce brand from Menards that works more like your crimp tool and is done when it's clamped together, no light. I love it. That may not be something most people would encounter but I did 1" from my pressure tank to my water softener and then transitioned to 3/4" to the water heater and then everything else is 1/2" but I can use the same tool for all of them. One more advantage of the clamp style is it's easier to remove it if you make a mistake or want to reclaim a fitting. I guess I felt the need to say all this because I don't think you gave the clamp style a fair comparison, but it was interesting to learn more about the crimp style and reassure me I made the right choice... Lol
OETIKER CLAMP is what the stainless steel line clamps are called that you were using. They have been used on automotive fuel lines for a couple decades now if not longer there’s a tool that you can use for those that is half the price of the tool that you had my business, we see the good and the bad of both sides, we repaira lot of PEX lines but we also repair a lot of copper lines. I prefer copper as that’s how I have my home set up that I built, but I guess in 80 years. The people at that time will be able to determine how well PEX stands up versus copper the thing that I can say that I do not like his shark bite fittings we get calls for leaks and replace many of them and like you said possibly they installed them incorrectly…. Good video 🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼✌🏼
We built our home from Feb, 2002 and Oct, 2003 doing most of the interior work. My hubby with our teenage daughter and myself installing the plumbing using PEX tubing. It was awesome! It was impressive. At the time, the plumbers were fighting it coming to code in the city because it made it easy for DIYers. We built in the country in the next county so were able to do it. Wow! We were sold. It's also nice that you have turn offs for each water source, so no turning off the whole house to change a faucet etc.
Great video and tips. I did a very small PEX job and the Mpls Home Depot borrowed me the crimper. Which was terrific for a one-time small job. My first time using PEX and it was super and still does not leak after 1 year.
Great rundown on PEX, and you addressed every issue I have had with it in the past. Used PEX-B when I remodeled our bathroom in 2021, then when I added a toilet in the basement a month ago. Quick to install, and easy to tie into if you need to add on. SharkBite and crimp rings have both worked well for me, but I can see where the clamps would have made a couple of my connections in tight spaces easier to complete. One additional item I would recommend if you use crimp rings is a ring removal tool, especially if you need to swap out a fitting. Best way to remove the rings without damaging the fitting. (Guess how I know that?)
The people who built my house in 1978 used PVC for all the pipes. Not surprisingly, one of my pipes broke about a year ago due to the PVC becoming brittle. I struggled with glue and paste ( I had no idea what I was doing at the time and live too far in the middle of nowhere to hire a plumber. ) for 2 days. Then I remembered that a friend of mine mentioned he was using Shark Bite for his project. Went to the store, got some PEX and some Shark Bite connectors, was done in about 20 minutes. Wish I had used them from the start.
I use a simpler non-ratcheting tool for the clamp rings. Works great. (technically it does ratchet, but simply to keep it from releasing until you're done; you don't squeeze it multiple times)
A price comparison of PEX A vs B would be interesting. If A is significantly faster and the materials are cheaper, the cost might not be as big a deal as you can buy manual A expanders for a $100 or less.
First time I use Sharkbite connectors with PEX, I decided I would never sweat copper again. Super easy to install, flexibilty makes it easier to use in tight spaces woth obstructions. Thanks for sharing!
This is a great video. I did my very own bathroom renovation and I joined the old copper tubing to new Pex tubing. This video would have been really helpful back then! I noticed that you also had a tough time with the crimping tools as I did. I wonder if you could do a comparison video to see how efficient the different crimp tools are, as far as clamping pressure, how well they seal in the water, even at high pressures. I for one would really like to know how well the automatic power crimp tools work… for some reason I do not trust them. Could be a good video to see which one is best.
Why not wear a belt AND suspenders 😆 Great vids as ever, Brad. For any DIY'ers doing their remodel, I've just finished my one-woman bathroom remodel, and found that if I just backed off the water pressure a very small amount out at the house water valve (not the main) it eliminated any of the dripping from the shower head when running the tub spout. YMMV, but it's an option!
Haven't had an opportunity to DIY a water (plumbing) setup ... YET. PEX certainly looks easiest and easier on the wallet. However, I am curious about a couple items: - How does PEX perform when exposed to freezing temps (better or worse than copper)? - My biggest hesitation so far (besides laziness) is any unknown health risks from the PEX materials. I've been reading more and more studies lately warning us on the unhealthy levels of plastics we're ingesting daily. Well, I guess I just need to dig deeper for the info ... or maybe just dive right in and drink the proverbial kool-aid (with my new fat PEX super-straw!) LOL Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! I always learn something useful and new from your vids ... even if it's only spotting ghosts of a deer gone 'bye'. 😏
I just want to say, the way you did the Sponcering read, was perfect 🎉 I'm still watching you doing the thing, and that's just in the corner... No problems. Normally I skip forward, but didn't need to in your video
I’m a plumber 👨🔧. A trick with the crimp rings to keep them from sliding around on the pipe during the crimp use a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the ring until it stays in place were you want it and the ring won’t slide on you when crimping.
I do love the PEX! Had my whole house re-plumbed (1960's copper) recently. I did ask about the Shark fittings. A couple of different plumbers have recommended staying away from Shark fittings because they degrade over time. The only thing sealing that joint is an internal O-ring that will degrade. Once they start leaking, they will not stop. I'm no plumber, but have seen evidence of this at a friends' house where a couple of Shark fittings have started to leak. Luckily they were in an unfinished portion of the basement and easily fixed.
Everything I've ever heard is that shark bites are great... for exposed plumbing. I've always heard to never put it inside of walls specifically because of the long-term failures. But anything you can see and easily access if you start noticing leaks it's totally worth the ease of use.
Content here is great! But, I think 2 things were missed while discussing PEX: 1. It MOVES! Like a LOT more than copper. That means you have to anchor it in more places, and through-holes MUST have grommets because it can potentially scrape and rub, and that COULD lead to a hole if it's not properly secured and protected. To me, this is roughly on par with the potential for galvanic corrosion on copper, so it's a wash, overall, but something to note. And 2. Pex IS somewhat flexible, which means it is WAY more forgiving than copper. I had a joint in the house that had 4 copper elbows. I was able to replace that with a SINGLE straight connector and some deviation from the PEX line because it only needed to shunt over by like 3 inches.
Dang; I now know so much more and while watching (while ENJOYING ) how you explain this while making it hilarious I'm semi convinced I could do the same!
There is a manual tool for PEX-A expansion. It requires Herculean strength but it is cost effective at $60 to $100 including anvils. I bought one for a remodel and very quickly went and bought a used Milwaukee for $250. I can resell the Milwaukee when I'm finished if I want. 17:30 Oh, the term you're looking for would be LatMaster.
Wow! I was shocked to see how much cheaper pex is than copper. These videos are very timely as I'm gearing up to replace our bathtub and valve and surround. I'm still undecided if I'm going to replace our old tub or refinish it. But this is a great introduction to educate me into the world of pex. I've used sharkbite fittings before. Thanks for taking the time to offer us the price breakdown. I'm curious how I would go about routing my hot and cold lines to the correct sides using Pex. Currently our hot and cold lines are on the wrong side on our bathtub.
I used copper in our house to redo the old plumbing. Pex was just starting to come into existence for plumbing at this time. The thing that concerned me then and it still concerns me now is the longevity of the pex. The copper is known to last for a half of a century or more if done right. Pex has only existed for standard plumbing for a couple decades. And some other types of plastic pipe will spontaneously burst. I think pex has proven it's self at this point to be a great option but it still makes me nervous.
Just redid my bathroom and ran into that exact valve issue where the water leaked from the shower head. had to take it all apart and fed the tub spout with 3/4 inch pex and it worked great!
I heard that the Sharkbite fittings you should be using with PEX are the ones with the white inner ring that applies an opposing force from the inside of the PEX pipe so that if the pipe ever shrinks or expands over the years, you have plenty of hold on the inside and outside of that connection.
Pro tip for copper crimp rings. Keep needle nose pliers in your pocket and just give the rings the very slightest pinch one in place and they wont move when you go to crimp them. I honestly still dont trust pex long term even though its been used for a while and its super easy to install. Copper is just well known to last 50+ years when done right. Sharkbites also have their place. And that place is used in an open scenerio (hot water tank for example) Never behind a closed wall.
I am in the process of planning a plumbing revamp for my well supply lines. I will be adding several filters and rerouting the mess of copper and pvc that was originally installed. I am going the PEX-A route for 1" supply lines, and found numerous options for the expander tool for -$300 on Ebay. I just got it, and now I have a lifetime tool that will make all future plumbing projects significantly easier.
A piece of masking tape wrapped around the Pex crimp ring will hold it in place for the crimp tool. This is especially helpful in tight places. I used this technique just yesterday.
Around here, the cost of Shark Bite fittings almost eats up any PEX savings over copper. Some homework is necessary to determine if PEX is really a bargain when transitioning from copper. I lived in a 120+ year old house, so I've had to deal with galvanized, copper, and PVC when I was retrofitting plumbing. Now I live in a newly-constructed condo that has PEX throughout, so I'm getting used to it. I hooked up a fridge ice maker line and added a freeze-proof outdoor hose bibb so far. I used Shark Bite fittings to avoid having to buy the PEX crimp tool.
I heard that Uponor is fighting one or more lawsuits for the type A expanding connections because the pipe starts to develop micro fractures after a few years that can leak. I’ve seen it myself in several homes and at my workplace. I only use type B in my home.
There is a very affordable hand expander tool that works great. I wouldn't do a whole house with it, but if you only have a handful of connections to make, it's a great option.
@@GioGuitarDude Yeah, the lawsuits involve colored pipe. The newer PEX-A is clear-ish (white) with red or blue printing. These have not had any issues as far as I know.
You can use a 1/2 npt female to 3/4 pex for the tub spout and a 3/4 pex to 1/2 drop ear and it works great I use it quite often, but I also sweat copper quite often aswell it about depends what kind of material is in the house I’m working on at that time 😅
Our area has low pH well water (6.5 or less). The brass PEX connectors corrode through in about 10 years. The plumbers here are using stainless steel connector for PEX. Stainless steel connectors cost about 2 times the cost of brass connectors.
I started on copper many years ago but I definitely prefer PEX. The water in my house is also slightly acidic. Not a problem for the people or the PEX but it kills the copper pipes. Sharkbites are good but I avoid using them mostly because of the price.
I've seen copper and brass that failed due to corrosion from water conditions, but I've never seen plastic or rubber corrode, so I'm pretty sure pex and plastic push fittings are going to last a long time. And I agree with the others saying that pex bend supports are great for 90 degree turns in unconstrained spaces.
Copper still has it's place. It'll last for ages and in some applications it's the only choice (from hot water heater) Then there's the whole PEX-A vs PEX-B discussion. It all started with uponor which is obviously the superior product in all ways compared to PEX-B (no flow restrictions, less chance of installation error, more flexible so some 90s not needed) The flow component is huge and a lot of times overlooked. Then there is sharkbite which is only found in Big box stores easily. I'll let that speak for itself. Propress is the superior product here for that. I wish PEX-B would be phased out...
The "clamp" (cinch) rings were initially made dor irrigation systems; so use the proper compression rings, theyll last "forever" and wont back-off or leak.
I also prefer to use both teflon tape and compound, but it's important for folks to realize that the purpose of those materials is not to 'seal"' the NPT (national pipe thread) joint. Instead, they are basically acting as a lubricant to help allow the full tightening of the NPT joint together properly. NPT male & female fixtures are designed with a special taper relative to each other so the threads will create a seal when completely and properly tightened ('seated'). The teflon helps to both tighten all the way to that point as well as also to prevent seizing so that later the joint can be separated. So folks should not rely on just globbing on a bunch of teflon tape or compound and hope that by itself will prevent leaks. Use them, but then make sure to properly tighten.
When using SharkBite fittings, always use the SharkBite deburring tool to deburr the ends of the pipes (copper or PEX) and use the deburring tool to mark the correct insertion depth. These two steps will solve most of the problems people have with using SharkBite fittings.
I try to use as few of the 90 degree and 45 degree as possible. I either will do a slow turn in the ceiling or use a 90 degree template. This keeps water volume higher and saves money on fittings. It's one reason Pex A is popular because you can eliminate angle fittings easily, but that is for professionals. In a NEW project, I would allow enough space to do a completely angle fitting free project. I have been using sharkbite and other approved push-to-connect fittings for years but many in expose areas so I can check them. Now in our area they are approved for close wall projects because they have similar life as copper as you saw on your project pin-holes and fitting failures can occur long before 40 years is up. Thanks. Oh, prices and options on the Pex A tools have come way down and you can rent, too! I will be using A in future, also easier to work in tight spaces.
Nice demonstration! I'm wondering if there are any hose clamps that can legally be used with PEX, for those locations where crimping and clamping is too awkward.
in socal orange county, we have way too much chloramine in our water. this causes issues with green water in large buildings if you stop and then start the water, according to a couple of plumbers i've spoken to. that's why a lot of newer constructions here are switching to pex. it holds up to corrosion!
The manual/hand expansion tool for PEX-A are available for under $100 PEX-A is more flexible requiring fewer 90’s and higher water flow through the fittings. I have no problem soldering copper as I’m a HVAC&R tech but could not justify the additional cost of copper.
Pex is excellent for a confined space. Under a house we had an area where the water main comes in and it branches out to the different rooms. The original "manifold" was manufactured probably in the late 1930s. Apparently the homes this company built all had this space for this manifold, saves time building, which was all they were concerned at the time. They made no consideration for repairs on anything. Those sharkbites were genius, but it is hard to walk away from because you just push them in and swivel them around and no leaks. Some seemed loose, but that's just because they made them easy to use. Do not store Pex in direct sunlight. This will make it fail, the damage is invisible, but a year later is repair time. We learned this replacing the mains in an apartment complex, we thought we were something. And we really were, a year later.
When going from 1/2" copper to PEX, I transition to 3/4" PEX fittings and pipes because the inside diameter of 3/4" PEX is pretty much the same as 1/2" copper.
My neighbor on a well has to use plastic fittings, the water eats up the metal. He originally had copper pipes and the water ate those pipes up in a few years, the pex with plastic fittings has done well. The stainless cinch rings are great since you only need the 1 tool to do all sizes, the tool is smaller and easier to carry under the house or use under a sink, and those rings are easier to remove if needed. I have the cinch tool you have, and I did not like it, I went with the sharkbite tool, it has the extra handle in between so that you can start the crimp with 1 hand, and, no batteries. If you are doing a outside spigot and have to drill a hole in the brick, I like the copper crimp rings, I can drill a smaller hole for that crimp ring, vs the cinch type, but that's not often. Also, there is another crimper for the copper rings, much smaller, easier to use, iWiss, bought mine on Amazon, and I bought the 2 individual sizes, not the combo unit. Also, I have repaired some garden hoses with the copper crimp rings, much nicer having a smooth ring instead of that lump on the cinch type. So yes, I use both, depending on the job. I have yet to need pex A for anything, although they say, no restrictions at the fitting, while true, I have all low flow stuff and the added cost of the pipe and fittings and rings, crimp tool I can't justify. Also, test show that pex A leaches more chemicals into the water.
My experience with pex fittings is that they are very temperamental to temperature changes (40F to 110F). I get about 5 years out of the push shark fittings before they start weeping. Sometimes all I need to do is push them back in and the leak stops. In general, plumbing within walls I stick with copper and plumbing that can easily be accessed I don't mind using pex.
Pex has two main problems, PEX B has restrictive fittings that will restrict flow, badly enough where water will still flow through a shower head while the tub is open. PEX A has a lot of recent complaints of leakage after about 10 years where the PEX was originally stretched to fit over the barbed fitting.... if you're going to use plastic pipe instead of copper for water, CPVC is full inside diameter and much faster to use than PEX. SharkBite fittings should only be used for temporary fixes, internal rubber O-rings make the seal. To illustrate the problem simply put your hand down to the bottom of your toilet tank and rub your finger on the rubber tank washers. Municipal Water eats away at rubber, your fingertip will have black rubber on it.
Sharkbite is fine for a quick fix on something that is exposed, like in an unfinished basement. I would NEVER bury sharkbite inside a finished wall. Proper installation or not, pex is better using proper expansion connections. I also prefer the pro pex expansion system because the joints dont reduce flow rate like the crimp ones typically do because of smaller diameter fittings
There is a SharkBiite measuring gauge and de-burring combination tool. 😊 SharkBite 1/4 Inch to 1 Inch Depth Gauge and Pipe Deburring Tool, Copper, PEX, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE, U702A
Brad, since you are doing a remodel of an older home, I recommend you change out the insulation when you have walls open. Studies have shown today's insulation vs even 20-year-old insulation has enough of a difference that it should pay for itself within three years. You will also be able to close areas that are leaking or find where pests get in.
I inherited a property that was less than 30 years old. I seals everything and changed the insulation. The difference between the previous gas bill and the current gas bill paid for the changes in the first year.
I gotta hand it to you Brad. This was simple yet detailed, easy to understand yet thorough. Well done.
So, I'm old and have never done any plumbing (unless you count replacing a garbage disposal) and have no intention to start at this point in my life. But did I watch every minute of this video? Yes I did and found it very informative and well explained . 😊
Two years ago I replaced my galvanized pipes in my 1939 house with PEX. Absolutely great to work with. Flexibility is unbeatable. With the huge choice of fittings, very easy to retrofit onto almost anything. No fire, no flux, no solder. Was a no brainer for me. Need to splice something in, no prob. Cut, install fitting, crimp. Too simple. I even ran lines out to my garden. Can't praise this product enough.
You're relying on a rubber O ring at every coupling to remain water tight for decades tho. I've seen 60+ yr old copper that's still holding strong. O rings fail all the time.
@@rbhe357 Guess I neglected to specify I didn't use any Shark-Bite fittings. All my fittings are brass crimped on per specification. With the price of copper, this was the more affordable approach. After the research I did, I feel very comfortable with my choice. And, I do agree that o-rings can fail at any time.
@@robertsimonson5411 Me too. The only reason to have Sharkbite is to have a couple of caps on hand for emergencies with copper. You'll probably never need them, but if you do... It's kind of like insurance.
@@rbhe357 no question that a properly soldered copper connection is more secure however; do you stress over the main shut off valves installed, what about water meter feeding house, do you have any faucets or a refrigerator water lines installed? Any concern over these because they use rubber gaskets seal water in.
Water pressure will be your downfall in about 3 more yrs.
Thanks for a great video. Let me add what I've learned the hard way.
Two years ago I replumbed my lake house (polybutylene) with PEX-B because the PEX-A tools were too expensive. I had the giant crimper tool, which works well, but it's hard to use in close quarters. One trick I learned to hold the crimp rings on is to squeeze them just a little to make them a couple of thousandths of an inch out of round. That way they stay where you put them. After crimping, they test just fine in all directions with the Go-NoGo gauge.
I replumbed my home a few months ago. I waited until my wife was out of town for a week just in case things didn't go according to plan. We had a bathroom remodeled a few years ago and the plumber used PEX-A fittings. To connect A to B my plan was to use brass male to female NPT fittings, but I still had to figure out a way to get onto the PEX-A pipe. That's when I learned about the much cheaper manual PEX-A tools. I wish I had known about them earlier as they allow you to work in very tight quarters. You expand the pipe and clamp ring, then you have about 10 seconds to put the joint together. No wonder the pros use PEX-A! Plus PEX-A gives a higher flow rate.
When finished, I tested my entire house with air before applying water. I really didn't want any water leaks in the attic, and I had leaks! None of my crimp connections leaked, but most of my NPT connections leaked, even when using pipe dope. I tested with air until the system would hold pressure for over a day with NO pressure loss.
Interesting. How did you resolve the NPT fitting issue? What was the cause of improper fitting?
Pex-A also does not have the flow constriction problem you described. Expending the pipe allows a full ID fitting.
I re-plumbed my bathroom and shower 2 years ago in PEX-A. There's a very inexpensive (about $40) PEX-A expander tool, you don't need the $500 fancy one!
My whole house is plumbed in pex. When I replaced my water heater, I just cut the pex and used Sharkbite fittings to couple back in. It works great and I've had no problems. Sharkbite also makes a tool for cleaning the end of the tubing and showing the insertion depth.
Bill
Have some experience modifying my house to replace the old galvanised iron water lines with pex. (Very constricted water flow from all the rust and deposition.) Initially did some piecemeal swapping with Pex B, using a clamp ring for connections. One good thing we discovered about the clamps was that when we messed up, the clamp ring could be broken down by using bolt cutters to snip the clamp and the joint and ring came of easily. When shifting to replacing the main water line we switched over to Pex A, so it needed fewer connectors and had less constriction on those connectors.
Also Sharkbites have been a lifesaver for years.
If I ever needed to do a plumbing project at home this is a great resource, Brad you really have a great way of explaining how things work!
Pex plus sharkbite has kept my hunting cabin from exploding for years. Love the stuff
Holy Schnikies Batman!!! This video will literally save me time and money bc I'm about to tear out a super old and gross plywood laminate shower wall and replace the valves and spouts in the process. I'm likely going to see some galvanized piping and some copper so this video was right on time :)
I bend the pipes whenever possible instead of using elbows. Cheaper, less flow restriction. Only downside is it looks a bit wonkier. You can get elbows that help form & hold the PEX.
Same here. All my fixtures come off a manifold with an individual valve for each. The only fittings are at the manifold and at the fixture.
The make bending guides for pex to eliminate the elbow fittings. They keep the tube from collapsing and are about $1.50 each.
I mean… Home Depot sells a pex a expansion tool set for less than $140.
I just re-did some plumbing and it was super simple to use. No messing around with crimp rings, no worrying about them leaking, not having to get a tool up in an awkward area. Expand the pipe in the ring, and then shove it on the fitting wherever it is. It also has the advantage of resting your water flow.
Great video Brad. Wish you had made this a few weeks ago when I had to do an emergency plumbing repair at home. As you, I am a copper guy. A 35 year old copper joint started to drip probably due to a cold joint. I decided to go PEX for the repair. Worked great. I prefer the clamp style fittings but I was working in a basement ceiling between studs and, for a while, I thought I would not be able to get the large clamping tool between the studs. This is where I would use the ratcheting crimping tool in future repairs. In the end, it all worked out. Thanks for your insightful content.
my god, man, your videos are awesome. clear and concise instructions. full explanation of the thought process together with pros & cons of options available. plus a full cost comparison breakdown. if you ever get tired of the diy thing, you should open a youtube academy!
10:17 There is a hand tool version of the power expander which is super easy to use and much cheaper.
If you just tap the crimp ring with the clamping tool while its on the pipe, it will tighten up just enough to keep it from sliding around while you position it. Then give it the full crimp.
Exactly this. I would position the crimp ring, and give it a squeeze with a needle-nose pliers and that was enough to keep it from shifting around while I used the larger clamping tool.
Im surprised that you didnt mention that for turning 90°, there are clamps that bend the pex pipe and hold it at 90° and keep it from collapsing. It negates the need for a 90° fitting and 2 crimps. They require more room to make the bend, but have no possible leak points.
I went with PEX A because I found a great deal on the Milwaukee Fuel expander tool on eBay listed as the non-fuel model, with charger and one battery in the case for $275. I just needed to re-route supply lines for the shower around the new abs p-trap drain connection to the old cast iron main. Plus, PEX A can use PEX B crimp connectors also in a pinch.
PEX is really great for renovations in the way that it's flexible, you can run it in an open bay like stiff wire, where copper is simply rigid. Also, with enough play you don't need to use 90° fittings. I had helped a friend with a vanity, the drain was immediately in the way of the copper pipe, we grabbed shark bite and a bit of PEX instead of a number of 90 or 45 fittings. Harder to quantify but the ease of use is game changing
I like the cinch clamps because they're easier to cinch in place and they're easier to remove. You can also get stainless steel versions of all the brass parts. The water from my well has a pH of 5, and over time it will eat brass fittings. I've since installed a water softening system, but before I had a chance to do that I had to replace a bunch of fittings that were heavily corroded (two, in fact, were dripping about 1 drop per hour). The stainless isn't that much more than the brass, but you do have to order them from somewhere like SupplyHouse. You also have to be aware that PEX can't be used anywhere it will be exposed to direct UV light. This isn't usually a problem once it's in use, but don't store any unused PEX outside.
@@JCWren and be cognizant of how your plumbing supplier is storing the pex. And never buy remnants off craigslist… you just don’t know how it was stored
Scrapping my plan to use PEX for my Solar Hot Water System. Glad I saw your comment before I wasted a lot of money on it. 😂
fun fact you don't need fittings with pex except at th ebeginning or end of the run they have supports for turns in pex which helps with flow
Reworking a whole house from the 50s, went with pex a myself and copper and unions on the stuff that first hits the house (backflow, prv) for ease of maintenance. The big advantage I have found is that pex allows you to oreint things like a union joint but for far less money and hassle, although you get a lot less support on the joint which is amplified with a hot line. It is easy to mix copper and pex with sharkbites so you can have the best of both that way.
Your plumbing will be quieter with Pex A and using the expansion type fittings. These fittings don’t introduce restrictions like an inset fitting.
FYI… shark bites only make me nervous when in an enclosed wall. I’m not sold that one O-ring will have the same lifespan as the Pipe. There are fine in open area like a garage (water heater) or in a crawlspace.
My plumber buddy also says he dosent really trust the o rings inside of a finished wall.
They're rated for behind the wall. As long as the pressure is at reasonable residential levels they're installed per the manufacturers instructions they're absolutely rock solid.
@@TheBenjomcmlxxv He's more concerned that rubber o rings dry out and get cracked over long periods of time.
@@TheBenjomcmlxxv i understand they are rated for that, i was only expressing my trust and opinion.
Ryobi makes clamp and pinch tools for about $150. Use whichever fitting u like and electric tool to clamp/pinch.
Great video. You should include the cost of training to do proper soldering for copper 😊 PEX is always my choice!
Not to mention when you mess up the soldering process as you’re learning. Not that’s a pain!
I did the very same project a few years ago. Started from scrap with crimpers etc. My first time with PEX was amazingly simple, compared to what other options may have been. You did a very job explaining your process. Thanks for sharing.
I just wish I would have used those spacers to place ring in correct location. As you mentioned, the ring was hard to position and apply the crimp.
Im remodeled my home from the 1950s, Pex A all the way worth the money, higher flow rate than b and stronger, not to mention more flexible for turns. So yea i had to buy a dewalt expander but totally worth it. Also no clumsy tool easy to make connections in tight spaces.
This is so great! I’m sure my plumber will pass those savings onto me on my next project! Lol….between labor and his out of pocket expenses being lower….😊
I totally understand the initial cost reluctance for many DIY folks to go to Pex A instead of Pex B. But if you anticipate that you will be doing more than a single bathroom's worth of plumbing, you might be getting to the volume of work (the sheer number of connections you will be doing) where it might be worth just making the jump and use Pex A. Especially if you already have Milwaukee or DeWalt (or other mfg) battery-powered tools, you can find the Pex A expander without battery for well under $400. Even less if you look for used ones on e-Bay or Craig's List. Once you start to anticipate plumbing 2 or more bathrooms / kitchens, that cost difference may not seem like very much. Especially since, if you are doing a ton of connections, you will probably want a powered crimper even if you are doing Pex B - and those are just as expensive. Installing with Pex A really is simpler most of the time because the tool itself doesn't need to be applied right at the joint. With Pex A, you have to be able to get the crimping tool at the point of connection at the right angle to properly crimp the ring. Anybody who has done renovation plumbing knows that this is often a huge pain in the butt. With Pex A, you expand the end of the pipe (with the ring) while it is loose and accessible and then you push it over the connector and hold for a few seconds. And as long as you hold it seated all the way, it is almost foolproof. No guessing on crimp-ring alignment or whether you over/under crimped. It all just goes so much faster.
I went the clamp route with my pex fittings because the tool works with 3/8" up to 1" but the crimp style requires multiple tools to accommodate all those sizes. Also, I bought the masterforce brand from Menards that works more like your crimp tool and is done when it's clamped together, no light. I love it.
That may not be something most people would encounter but I did 1" from my pressure tank to my water softener and then transitioned to 3/4" to the water heater and then everything else is 1/2" but I can use the same tool for all of them.
One more advantage of the clamp style is it's easier to remove it if you make a mistake or want to reclaim a fitting.
I guess I felt the need to say all this because I don't think you gave the clamp style a fair comparison, but it was interesting to learn more about the crimp style and reassure me I made the right choice... Lol
OETIKER CLAMP is what the stainless steel line clamps are called that you were using. They have been used on automotive fuel lines for a couple decades now if not longer there’s a tool that you can use for those that is half the price of the tool that you had my business, we see the good and the bad of both sides, we repaira lot of PEX lines but we also repair a lot of copper lines. I prefer copper as that’s how I have my home set up that I built, but I guess in 80 years. The people at that time will be able to determine how well PEX stands up versus copper the thing that I can say that I do not like his shark bite fittings we get calls for leaks and replace many of them and like you said possibly they installed them incorrectly…. Good video 🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼✌🏼
We built our home from Feb, 2002 and Oct, 2003 doing most of the interior work. My hubby with our teenage daughter and myself installing the plumbing using PEX tubing. It was awesome! It was impressive. At the time, the plumbers were fighting it coming to code in the city because it made it easy for DIYers. We built in the country in the next county so were able to do it. Wow! We were sold. It's also nice that you have turn offs for each water source, so no turning off the whole house to change a faucet etc.
Great video and tips. I did a very small PEX job and the Mpls Home Depot borrowed me the crimper. Which was terrific for a one-time small job. My first time using PEX and it was super and still does not leak after 1 year.
Please do an in-depth video comparing PEX-A to PEX-B that includes restriction of water flow, ease of making connections in tight spaces, costs, etc.
Great rundown on PEX, and you addressed every issue I have had with it in the past.
Used PEX-B when I remodeled our bathroom in 2021, then when I added a toilet in the basement a month ago. Quick to install, and easy to tie into if you need to add on. SharkBite and crimp rings have both worked well for me, but I can see where the clamps would have made a couple of my connections in tight spaces easier to complete.
One additional item I would recommend if you use crimp rings is a ring removal tool, especially if you need to swap out a fitting. Best way to remove the rings without damaging the fitting. (Guess how I know that?)
The people who built my house in 1978 used PVC for all the pipes. Not surprisingly, one of my pipes broke about a year ago due to the PVC becoming brittle. I struggled with glue and paste ( I had no idea what I was doing at the time and live too far in the middle of nowhere to hire a plumber. ) for 2 days. Then I remembered that a friend of mine mentioned he was using Shark Bite for his project. Went to the store, got some PEX and some Shark Bite connectors, was done in about 20 minutes. Wish I had used them from the start.
here in belgium we never see PEX like this. it's always multilayered plastic-aluminum-plastic. popular brand product is Alpex
I use a simpler non-ratcheting tool for the clamp rings. Works great. (technically it does ratchet, but simply to keep it from releasing until you're done; you don't squeeze it multiple times)
A price comparison of PEX A vs B would be interesting. If A is significantly faster and the materials are cheaper, the cost might not be as big a deal as you can buy manual A expanders for a $100 or less.
First time I use Sharkbite connectors with PEX, I decided I would never sweat copper again. Super easy to install, flexibilty makes it easier to use in tight spaces woth obstructions. Thanks for sharing!
This is a great video. I did my very own bathroom renovation and I joined the old copper tubing to new Pex tubing. This video would have been really helpful back then! I noticed that you also had a tough time with the crimping tools as I did. I wonder if you could do a comparison video to see how efficient the different crimp tools are, as far as clamping pressure, how well they seal in the water, even at high pressures. I for one would really like to know how well the automatic power crimp tools work… for some reason I do not trust them. Could be a good video to see which one is best.
I used a Sharkbite to repair a Pex line that was damaged. What a great tool and easy option. I actually prefer it to crimping. Great video! 👍
Why not wear a belt AND suspenders 😆 Great vids as ever, Brad. For any DIY'ers doing their remodel, I've just finished my one-woman bathroom remodel, and found that if I just backed off the water pressure a very small amount out at the house water valve (not the main) it eliminated any of the dripping from the shower head when running the tub spout. YMMV, but it's an option!
Haven't had an opportunity to DIY a water (plumbing) setup ... YET.
PEX certainly looks easiest and easier on the wallet. However, I am curious about a couple items:
- How does PEX perform when exposed to freezing temps (better or worse than copper)?
- My biggest hesitation so far (besides laziness) is any unknown health risks from the PEX materials. I've been reading more and more studies lately warning us on the unhealthy levels of plastics we're ingesting daily.
Well, I guess I just need to dig deeper for the info ... or maybe just dive right in and drink the proverbial kool-aid (with my new fat PEX super-straw!) LOL
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! I always learn something useful and new from your vids ... even if it's only spotting ghosts of a deer gone 'bye'. 😏
I just want to say, the way you did the Sponcering read, was perfect 🎉 I'm still watching you doing the thing, and that's just in the corner...
No problems.
Normally I skip forward, but didn't need to in your video
Doing our bath great timing. Always look forward to your vids. You answered many of my questions.
I’m a plumber 👨🔧. A trick with the crimp rings to keep them from sliding around on the pipe during the crimp use a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the ring until it stays in place were you want it and the ring won’t slide on you when crimping.
Thanks for this. I'd never seen a DIYer do pex before. They repiped my house with this a few months ago, but I didn't follow them around to watch.
I do love the PEX! Had my whole house re-plumbed (1960's copper) recently. I did ask about the Shark fittings. A couple of different plumbers have recommended staying away from Shark fittings because they degrade over time. The only thing sealing that joint is an internal O-ring that will degrade. Once they start leaking, they will not stop. I'm no plumber, but have seen evidence of this at a friends' house where a couple of Shark fittings have started to leak. Luckily they were in an unfinished portion of the basement and easily fixed.
Everything I've ever heard is that shark bites are great... for exposed plumbing. I've always heard to never put it inside of walls specifically because of the long-term failures. But anything you can see and easily access if you start noticing leaks it's totally worth the ease of use.
Content here is great! But, I think 2 things were missed while discussing PEX: 1. It MOVES! Like a LOT more than copper. That means you have to anchor it in more places, and through-holes MUST have grommets because it can potentially scrape and rub, and that COULD lead to a hole if it's not properly secured and protected. To me, this is roughly on par with the potential for galvanic corrosion on copper, so it's a wash, overall, but something to note. And 2. Pex IS somewhat flexible, which means it is WAY more forgiving than copper. I had a joint in the house that had 4 copper elbows. I was able to replace that with a SINGLE straight connector and some deviation from the PEX line because it only needed to shunt over by like 3 inches.
Dang; I now know so much more and while watching (while ENJOYING ) how you explain this while making it hilarious I'm semi convinced I could do the same!
There is a manual tool for PEX-A expansion. It requires Herculean strength but it is cost effective at $60 to $100 including anvils. I bought one for a remodel and very quickly went and bought a used Milwaukee for $250. I can resell the Milwaukee when I'm finished if I want. 17:30 Oh, the term you're looking for would be LatMaster.
Wow! I was shocked to see how much cheaper pex is than copper. These videos are very timely as I'm gearing up to replace our bathtub and valve and surround. I'm still undecided if I'm going to replace our old tub or refinish it. But this is a great introduction to educate me into the world of pex. I've used sharkbite fittings before. Thanks for taking the time to offer us the price breakdown. I'm curious how I would go about routing my hot and cold lines to the correct sides using Pex. Currently our hot and cold lines are on the wrong side on our bathtub.
I used copper in our house to redo the old plumbing. Pex was just starting to come into existence for plumbing at this time.
The thing that concerned me then and it still concerns me now is the longevity of the pex. The copper is known to last for a half of a century or more if done right. Pex has only existed for standard plumbing for a couple decades. And some other types of plastic pipe will spontaneously burst. I think pex has proven it's self at this point to be a great option but it still makes me nervous.
Great job Brad! I’m setting up to cut out some old copper and replace it with PEX. Thanks for the tips!
That was the best PEX overview video I’ve ever seen. Great work, partner!
Really interesting process indeed, Brad! Awesome work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thx, MC!
Just redid my bathroom and ran into that exact valve issue where the water leaked from the shower head. had to take it all apart and fed the tub spout with 3/4 inch pex and it worked great!
I heard that the Sharkbite fittings you should be using with PEX are the ones with the white inner ring that applies an opposing force from the inside of the PEX pipe so that if the pipe ever shrinks or expands over the years, you have plenty of hold on the inside and outside of that connection.
That was the original sharkbite. Sharkbite Max did away with that insert and with it got rid of flow restriction
@@Fixthisbuildthat Oh I see! Thanks for clarifying 👍
Pro tip for copper crimp rings.
Keep needle nose pliers in your pocket and just give the rings the very slightest pinch one in place and they wont move when you go to crimp them.
I honestly still dont trust pex long term even though its been used for a while and its super easy to install. Copper is just well known to last 50+ years when done right.
Sharkbites also have their place. And that place is used in an open scenerio (hot water tank for example) Never behind a closed wall.
Subscribing to this channel since getting into property management! This makes me a bit happy. haha!
I am in the process of planning a plumbing revamp for my well supply lines. I will be adding several filters and rerouting the mess of copper and pvc that was originally installed. I am going the PEX-A route for 1" supply lines, and found numerous options for the expander tool for -$300 on Ebay. I just got it, and now I have a lifetime tool that will make all future plumbing projects significantly easier.
A piece of masking tape wrapped around the Pex crimp ring will hold it in place for the crimp tool. This is especially helpful in tight places. I used this technique just yesterday.
Sharkbite fittings are amazing, but wickedly expensive.
Around here, the cost of Shark Bite fittings almost eats up any PEX savings over copper.
Some homework is necessary to determine if PEX is really a bargain when transitioning
from copper. I lived in a 120+ year old house, so I've had to deal with galvanized, copper,
and PVC when I was retrofitting plumbing. Now I live in a newly-constructed condo that
has PEX throughout, so I'm getting used to it. I hooked up a fridge ice maker line and added
a freeze-proof outdoor hose bibb so far. I used Shark Bite fittings to avoid having to buy the PEX crimp tool.
You can rent the pex a expander tool for $25 a day. It may be worth it since you can normally do a whole house in a day.
I heard that Uponor is fighting one or more lawsuits for the type A expanding connections because the pipe starts to develop micro fractures after a few years that can leak. I’ve seen it myself in several homes and at my workplace. I only use type B in my home.
There is a very affordable hand expander tool that works great. I wouldn't do a whole house with it, but if you only have a handful of connections to make, it's a great option.
@@GioGuitarDude Yeah, the lawsuits involve colored pipe. The newer PEX-A is clear-ish (white) with red or blue printing. These have not had any issues as far as I know.
You can use a 1/2 npt female to 3/4 pex for the tub spout and a 3/4 pex to 1/2 drop ear and it works great I use it quite often, but I also sweat copper quite often aswell it about depends what kind of material is in the house I’m working on at that time 😅
Our area has low pH well water (6.5 or less). The brass PEX connectors corrode through in about 10 years. The plumbers here are using stainless steel connector for PEX. Stainless steel connectors cost about 2 times the cost of brass connectors.
Bought my own pex crimpers in Canada in 2004. I have saved thousands. (Canada cable guy)
I started on copper many years ago but I definitely prefer PEX. The water in my house is also slightly acidic. Not a problem for the people or the PEX but it kills the copper pipes. Sharkbites are good but I avoid using them mostly because of the price.
I've seen copper and brass that failed due to corrosion from water conditions, but I've never seen plastic or rubber corrode, so I'm pretty sure pex and plastic push fittings are going to last a long time. And I agree with the others saying that pex bend supports are great for 90 degree turns in unconstrained spaces.
Copper still has it's place. It'll last for ages and in some applications it's the only choice (from hot water heater)
Then there's the whole PEX-A vs PEX-B discussion. It all started with uponor which is obviously the superior product in all ways compared to PEX-B (no flow restrictions, less chance of installation error, more flexible so some 90s not needed) The flow component is huge and a lot of times overlooked.
Then there is sharkbite which is only found in Big box stores easily. I'll let that speak for itself. Propress is the superior product here for that.
I wish PEX-B would be phased out...
The "clamp" (cinch) rings were initially made dor irrigation systems; so use the proper compression rings, theyll last "forever" and wont back-off or leak.
I also prefer to use both teflon tape and compound, but it's important for folks to realize that the purpose of those materials is not to 'seal"' the NPT (national pipe thread) joint. Instead, they are basically acting as a lubricant to help allow the full tightening of the NPT joint together properly. NPT male & female fixtures are designed with a special taper relative to each other so the threads will create a seal when completely and properly tightened ('seated'). The teflon helps to both tighten all the way to that point as well as also to prevent seizing so that later the joint can be separated. So folks should not rely on just globbing on a bunch of teflon tape or compound and hope that by itself will prevent leaks. Use them, but then make sure to properly tighten.
When using SharkBite fittings, always use the SharkBite deburring tool to deburr the ends of the pipes (copper or PEX) and use the deburring tool to mark the correct insertion depth. These two steps will solve most of the problems people have with using SharkBite fittings.
I try to use as few of the 90 degree and 45 degree as possible. I either will do a slow turn in the ceiling or use a 90 degree template. This keeps water volume higher and saves money on fittings. It's one reason Pex A is popular because you can eliminate angle fittings easily, but that is for professionals. In a NEW project, I would allow enough space to do a completely angle fitting free project. I have been using sharkbite and other approved push-to-connect fittings for years but many in expose areas so I can check them. Now in our area they are approved for close wall projects because they have similar life as copper as you saw on your project pin-holes and fitting failures can occur long before 40 years is up. Thanks.
Oh, prices and options on the Pex A tools have come way down and you can rent, too! I will be using A in future, also easier to work in tight spaces.
They have manual expanders for pex for expansion pex. You can also crimp the expansion pex. Plastic fitting work just as well as brass ones.
Nice demonstration! I'm wondering if there are any hose clamps that can legally be used with PEX, for those locations where crimping and clamping is too awkward.
in socal orange county, we have way too much chloramine in our water. this causes issues with green water in large buildings if you stop and then start the water, according to a couple of plumbers i've spoken to. that's why a lot of newer constructions here are switching to pex. it holds up to corrosion!
We've only ever had chloramine in our water here... At least for probably 70 plus year's.... I've Never heard of green water....
Good coverage of the differences in pex "standards". 👌👍
The manual/hand expansion tool for PEX-A are available for under $100 PEX-A is more flexible requiring fewer 90’s and higher water flow through the fittings. I have no problem soldering copper as I’m a HVAC&R tech but could not justify the additional cost of copper.
Pex is excellent for a confined space. Under a house we had an area where the water main comes in and it branches out to the different rooms. The original "manifold" was manufactured probably in the late 1930s. Apparently the homes this company built all had this space for this manifold, saves time building, which was all they were concerned at the time. They made no consideration for repairs on anything. Those sharkbites were genius, but it is hard to walk away from because you just push them in and swivel them around and no leaks. Some seemed loose, but that's just because they made them easy to use. Do not store Pex in direct sunlight. This will make it fail, the damage is invisible, but a year later is repair time. We learned this replacing the mains in an apartment complex, we thought we were something. And we really were, a year later.
Fantastic video, completely prepared to update a bathroom if I ever need to! Thanks :)
When going from 1/2" copper to PEX, I transition to 3/4" PEX fittings and pipes because the inside diameter of 3/4" PEX is pretty much the same as 1/2" copper.
23:17 Another thing to consider too is the labor cost and or the time it takes to install and solder copper versus pecks.
An easy way to keep the crimp rings in place is use a bit of blue painters tape to hold it in place until you crimp it.
I would like to see you do a pex education video. Include a section for connecting pex to old school galvanized and copper pipes.
My neighbor on a well has to use plastic fittings, the water eats up the metal. He originally had copper pipes and the water ate those pipes up in a few years, the pex with plastic fittings has done well. The stainless cinch rings are great since you only need the 1 tool to do all sizes, the tool is smaller and easier to carry under the house or use under a sink, and those rings are easier to remove if needed. I have the cinch tool you have, and I did not like it, I went with the sharkbite tool, it has the extra handle in between so that you can start the crimp with 1 hand, and, no batteries. If you are doing a outside spigot and have to drill a hole in the brick, I like the copper crimp rings, I can drill a smaller hole for that crimp ring, vs the cinch type, but that's not often. Also, there is another crimper for the copper rings, much smaller, easier to use, iWiss, bought mine on Amazon, and I bought the 2 individual sizes, not the combo unit. Also, I have repaired some garden hoses with the copper crimp rings, much nicer having a smooth ring instead of that lump on the cinch type. So yes, I use both, depending on the job. I have yet to need pex A for anything, although they say, no restrictions at the fitting, while true, I have all low flow stuff and the added cost of the pipe and fittings and rings, crimp tool I can't justify. Also, test show that pex A leaches more chemicals into the water.
Awesome video. Always enjoy watching your videos . Very informative.
My experience with pex fittings is that they are very temperamental to temperature changes (40F to 110F). I get about 5 years out of the push shark fittings before they start weeping. Sometimes all I need to do is push them back in and the leak stops.
In general, plumbing within walls I stick with copper and plumbing that can easily be accessed I don't mind using pex.
Nice video.
Pex has two main problems, PEX B has restrictive fittings that will restrict flow, badly enough where water will still flow through a shower head while the tub is open.
PEX A has a lot of recent complaints of leakage after about 10 years where the PEX was originally stretched to fit over the barbed fitting.... if you're going to use plastic pipe instead of copper for water, CPVC is full inside diameter and much faster to use than PEX.
SharkBite fittings should only be used for temporary fixes, internal rubber O-rings make the seal. To illustrate the problem simply put your hand down to the bottom of your toilet tank and rub your finger on the rubber tank washers. Municipal Water eats away at rubber, your fingertip will have black rubber on it.
Sharkbite is fine for a quick fix on something that is exposed, like in an unfinished basement. I would NEVER bury sharkbite inside a finished wall. Proper installation or not, pex is better using proper expansion connections. I also prefer the pro pex expansion system because the joints dont reduce flow rate like the crimp ones typically do because of smaller diameter fittings
There is a SharkBiite measuring gauge and de-burring combination tool. 😊 SharkBite 1/4 Inch to 1 Inch Depth Gauge and Pipe Deburring Tool, Copper, PEX, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE, U702A
Sharkbit makes a tool for chamfering the end of the pipe that is also used as a depth gauge. It looks like a pan flute.
Btw some pex b chemistry also comes in expansion joint support as well. B type does not necessarily define joint requirements.
Over here in Europe we're using this stuff for Iver 25 years ,no different colours same pipe for hot or cold also need no clamps just an inserts