Say Goodbye to Sanding Drywall Mud Forever
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2024
- This DIY drywall mudding tutorial is all about how to apply drywall mud without having to sand from start to finish. This innovative drywall mud additive from Muddskip is a game changer when it comes time to applying mud to your drywall. Bring Your Own Tools (#BYOTools 214).
Paul Peck Drywall RUclips Channel HERE: / @paulpeck
Apparel List:
-Georgia Boots (20% off with "BYOT"): www.georgiaboot.com/
-BYOT Shirt: bit.ly/36tsgE0
-Knee Pads: amzn.to/3y2T0XT
Material List:
-Muddskip (Level 5 Smooth): amzn.to/3WnuKPa
-Muddskip (Heavy Duty): amzn.to/4baRMx4
-Drywall Tape: amzn.to/48PZTgT
Tool List (Amazon Links):
-Skimming Blade: amzn.to/4a6SGdq
-Mud Mixing Head: amzn.to/49QhBlC
-Paddle Mixer: amzn.to/48LvFM0
-Drywall Trowel: amzn.to/48U7paB
-Drywall Sanding Pad: amzn.to/3Tx4dNw
CHAPTERS:
0:00 - Intro
1:00 - What is Muddskip?
3:09 - How To apply Drywall Mud
8:55 - Do You Need To Sand Drywall Mud?
11:38 - Drywall Fire Test
12:45 - Drywall Sealer and Paint
14:11 - Finish shots
MUSIC from www.endlessnoise.com/ & www.chernebeats.com 
Хобби
A man that says you don’t have to sand drywall, needs a light.
I'm with you Donkey except I would have phrased it in a Confucius form...man who does not sand mud has not seen the light
@@uncleronny6748 🤣😂
LMAO! Man you hit the nail right square on the head! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You do not need to sand drywall, you just need to know how to plaster!!!!
So, speaking of “sanding drywall, or the lack there of, and a light”, have any of you ever took a flashlight, turned it on and laid it on the wall so that the light is shining over the surface of the wall??? Hell, now that I think about it, maybe that is exactly what you were referring to with your “man who says you don’t have to sand drywall, needs a light” comment!?!?!? Oh well, if so, then that most likely was not my brightest moment. Anywho, I have done this “flashlight” trick, or whatever you might want to call it, on a ton of walls and even a ton of floors, as well. This trick does NOT work on floors with carpet!!! It has to be done on hard floors, such as vinyl, hardwood, concrete and any other kind of floor that has a flat surface. Now, if you have done this “flashlight” trick before then I’m fairly certain that you know exactly where I’m going with this… and if you haven’t ever does this then you will be absolutely stunned if you ever decide to do so. Which, by the way, I highly recommend that you try this “flashlight” trick, for yourself, so that you can see exactly what it is that I am talking about. So anyways, moving forward, for the absolute best results and to ensure that you experience maximum viewing pleasure, you will definitely want to turn off any and all of the lights that are on and/or illuminating the room that you’re in… then, once it’s nice and mostly dark, turn your flashlight on and then lay the flashlight on the wall and focus your attention and look where the light is shining on and across the wall. You’ll want to move the flashlight around and hit all of the different parts of the wall. What do you see??? EVERY SINGLE TINY IMPERFECTION, from the original drywall work when the sheet rock was first hung, any and all repairs done since, high and low spots, dust and dirt, and a myriad of other things. Now, move to the next wall and check it out. You can do this throughout your entire house, office or any building for that matter. However, before doing this, “IF” you suffer from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, of ANY other kind of mental issues, for that matter, that are similar, in nature, to O.C.D. to where you’re not even remotely close to being satisfied unless stuff you see is absolutely perfect and/or any other things that aren’t perfect bother you and/or any little imperfections that you’re aware of just absolutely drive you insane until you fix and/or remedy them, then I would highly recommend and suggest, for your very own well being, that you do NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT, ever put a flashlight on a wall or a floor!!! Simply put, you very well may not ever leave!!! There are so many imperfections on every single wall ever built!!! And then when you’re finished with the walls, take and lay the flashlight on the floor and move it around… you see all of the imperfections, damage, high spots, low spots, but what do you see the most of??? DUST AND DIRT… ITS EVERYWHERE!!! Even if you just cleaned the floor yourself and you thought it was perfect!!! I have told my wife before, when she finished thoroughly sweeping and mopping the floor, “now, just how clean do you think that floor is that you just cleaned???”… and she said, “I’d almost eat off of it, that’s how clean it is… because I KNOW how to clean!!!”. Well fellas, that’s when, and this was the very first and the very LAST time that I was bone-headed and stupid enough to ever even pulled this stunt with my wife… and furthermore I would highly recommend that none of you try it either, simply due to the fact that there is absolutely NO GOOD OUTCOME, for any of you, in this exchange!!! But anywho, that’s not here nor there, I got my flashlight, turned it on… I could see the smirk on her face as I was kneeling down to put the flashlight on the floor when she condescendingly said something about, “WHAT’S THAT SUPPOSED TO DO???”… and I said, “watch this honey”… you would not believe just how quick I grabbed the flashlight, turned it off and made a futile attempt at changing the subject just as quick as I could, to absolutely no avail!!! She was angry as a hornet for about the next day or so!!! Long story short… do not try this “flashlight” trick if you suffer from O.C.D. and/or you’re trying to prove a point with your wife right after she finished cleaning the floors!!! 😂😂😂
Just a thought.....in your example here, you're replacing the lower portion of your garage wallboard because the garage flooded... Yes, wallboard will wick up water....so, may I suggest you install the new wallboard leaving a 3/4 to 1 inch gap at the floor to keep the wallboard from getting wet, if the garage floods again. That gap is then easily covered with any base molding.
Us professionals use a 3/4 inch piece of Plywood treated preferably...and would also use a Mold & Moisture Resistant Drywall
@@zsavage1820 DensGlass 5/8-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Mold Resistant Moisture Resistant Regular Drywall Panel
cement board
We Use Smart Panel In Areas Like This! Or A 1x8 Trim Board Around The Entire Utility Room! We Always Keep The Board Up Off Of The Floor Even In The Upstairs Rooms! Drywall Is Sized To Be Short Of The Stud Wall Height! That Is Why You Always put The Top Row On First! I Agree With Your Comment 100%
@@briancasey3421 Best advice! skim over leaving 3 inches exposed on bottom, trim will cover that.
I’m not a professional, but I have some tips that have worked very well for me that I learned from professionals. 1) you don’t need to buy fancy stuff to modify your mud. You can use Fixall or Durahm’s rock hard putty to get your topper or joint compound to set very quickly.
2)You also never have to sand. As soon as you start seeing the mud start to dry, you can use a slightly wet, grout sponge to smooth the surface. It’ll take some practice, but once you get good at it, your drywalling jobs will be very quick and clean.
Wet sanding is not fun
Durhams has something in it that can cause continuous bleeding through certain wall coatings like American Clay and perhaps a flat paint. Durhams is an expensive solution too, I would just use hot mud.
Thank you for your this info, I detest sanding!🤣
@pmhardison wet sanding is easier, faster, quieter, and cleaner than dry sanding, and I much prefer it over dry sanding. Not sure why you thing it is difficult, care to explain?
@@Erklzanderz wet sanding drywall, clogs sandpaper and mesh and can damage paper faster. I do wet sand with a sponge and dampen and trowel when not fully cured.
Pro Drywall tip. Mesh tape is only intended for small patches, not lengthy seams and will result in a hairline crack over time. Paper tape or Fiba Tape. I found this out the hard way when i first started out and all that hard work down the drain will make you lose sleep trust me😅
its used in conjunction with Durabond mud, and yes it will always crack if used with regular mud. You should never have to sand very much just 220 at the end before painting. Just remember you are filling from one point to another its that easy if you understand the concept.
I've seen plenty of cracks beside paper tape... indeed maybe it was applied to "dry" sheetrock
I was wondering.
I'm always replacing paper tape. Comes undone with any slight moisture. Instead use the mesh, then caulk the crack before mudding.
You only use mesh tape with hot mud.
word to the wise, you can get 40/ 90 min quick setting mud. As well, you can't use that mesh tape with normal compound-- you CAN use it with the quickset.
i've used the mesh tape with proform compound for 3 decades??? but then again i was raised democrat and learned that's communism practiced by really dumb people. 1984 and animal farm, go read them, other wise don't cry sheepy
Also need to prefill that joint before taping to prevent future cracking. I suspect that this additive is "mostly" plaster of Paris which will essentially turn that premixed mud into a fast set mud (no shrinking when drying - the expansion of the plaster of Paris compensates for the shrinking of the water based mud) so that mesh tape might be fine with this additive.
@@wally7856 Mesh tape isn't necessary for small cracks - just for big gaps. What he was doing is a little counterintuitive. It only makes for the having to use more mud than necessary. But yeah this product is sort of an overkill unless you have multiple walls and are trying to do a professional job and get done in as little time as possible.
I've never had a problem using the mesh tape with premixed compound, but I always prefill the gap. I wouldn't recommend that combination to anyone who expects to push the first application of compound through the tape.
@@solarismoon3046 Premix shrinks a lot, if prefilling I would only use hot mud.
Awesome vid! I appreciate you sharing. The cut down in drywall dust and clean up alone is a definite selling point. Such a pain tarping off areas of the job within an occupied home, trying to contain dust. It's a waste of time, money for plastic tarps, tape etc. these additives make a huge difference. And an additional money and time saver is not having to wait on drying time. Love it! Thanks again. 👍
just a note, to people watching, you shouldnt be using air drying mud (bucket or box mud) to tape mesh tape. you should be using setting type (powder) muds. It can be done, but it has a higher chance to crack over time. its probably fine in this specific video because i think that additive turns the bucket mud into a type of quick setting mud.
That’s exactly why mesh tape gets a bad name. People doing drywall that don’t know what they are doing. You can not use regular joint compound for the 1st coat over mesh tape it will crack a 100% of the time. Over time it will crack guaranteed
5 min quickset works just like all this stuff,you probably paid top dollar for that bag ,hr and a half is way long to wait between coats,5 and 15min qs works wonders
Ya how do I listen to you when your mudding knife skills suck I would have had that muted up in 60 seconds and I am only a cabinet maker.... Hot mud hot mud hot mud.
@rickybobby7229
I cannot work fast enough to use anything faster than 90 minute mid.
@@ecospider5 gotcha, I understand that
Thanks Brent, you are always introducing me to new products. Keep up the great work 🙌
Thanks for all the support along the way buddy. Keep up the amazing work on your channel as well.
I worked as a 'Drywall Punch out Tech' for a number of years, there are a few "quick set' products which cure in as little as 5 minutes, we used 15 and 20 minute mud for bigger repairs, A job like yours could be finnished and painted in one working day.
You can't paint any of those products in a day. They chemically harden but the moisture is still in it.
This was an awesome video 👍🏾 Keep ‘em coming, man!
Your videos are always very well done. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
I've been doing drywall for almost 20 years and still don't always get my timing right on every coat 🥴 it's okay, though, because this is your house AND you're learning while doing it, in the event you may need it in the future! ❤
Ive bern doing drywall for 2 years in one basement finishing project. Biggest mistake was nailers proud of joists. Now I know pros don't worry about optimizing every inch of drywall sheets. I can see every one. Should I attempt to feather them out now, or going to make it worse? I already primed with pva and painted, if that matters to the answer
@@keithmarlowe5569 scuff it up with some sandpaper and then patch what you need to, and always feather your edges! ;) if it's not a very obvious spot, just cover it with a picture 🥴🤣
That's a dynamite attitude and outlook, and too many "pros" overlook this reality in the rush to crap on someone willing to venture into "sacred territory".
The other variable often ignored is being able to even get someone to come do such little projects, or for such a huge cost that it makes it worthwhile for the average homeowner to at least practice and expand their possibilities and skills
Always use quickset mud with mesh tape. Regular bucket mud will shrink and crack on large gaps/ seam differences. I always use speed set 20 or 45 minute for 1st 2 coats (depending on job size) and 3rd coat gets "low dust" lite bucket mud. You MUST sand if you want it perfectly smooth. Texture prevents sanding but isnt popular anymore here. The "low dust" stuff settles to the floor quicker when sanding so dust isnt as bad. 3 coats in one day is no problem if its small job. I have used topping compound for a smoother finish on whole walls but I rarely mud the whole wall.
I knew a guy who said he sands with no dust. Yea he used wet method to feather edges and none of his repairs were flat. It looked horrible. Sanding with a hard block and screen knocks it flat quick then follow with sponge to feather edges
I'm always so grateful for people that take the time out to make these helpful videos. Thank you for sharing 🤗😊
Ya this is a video of how NOT to fix a wall or crack....
ANOTHER GIMMICK !
Do same exact thing with
Easy Sand, for under $10 !
Never use premix on mesh tape !
I Use 5, for samller repairs and taping, 20 for most repairs and taping, or 90, if I have a large area.
Or, I'll run 20, the entire job, remix in mud pan with a mixer from Menards.
They have small paddle mixer, metal rod, black end,..
It works perfect in mud pans.
Do not get air in your mix.
Keep paddle submerged, or mix will dry in about half the time.
Tho, that could be a good thing at times.
One more tip.. for the newbie's...
The number on setting mud is NOT dry time... it's set time !
It needs 24 to 48, sometimes longer, depending on thickness, air temp, and humidity, or primer will peel !
Believe me, I've tried to rush it, more than once.
Always paid the price.
You can use hair dryer or heat gun, to set it off, help get a 2nd coat, if your in a rush.
Run it thin enough, use 5, dry with heat gun, slowly, prime, paint, within minutes.
I wouldn't rush dry time on a high dollar job, but, 911's or low proffit jobs, I do it all the time.
Mix a little wet, so mud flows, tilt pan end to end as you mix.
Using 20, individual pans may take a few minutes longer, due to cleaning in between, but, you have less tools to carry around, you mix what you need, mix to desired thickness.
After 20 minutes, apply your 2nd coat, a little thinner, skim, and your done.
In rush job, where level 3 or 5 is not needed, I'll sponge the mud before I move to my next pan, dry with heat gun, prime, paint.
Never sanding anything.
All mud goes on same Bat time, same Bat place !
Don't mistake Durabind for Easy Sand.
You will only confuse the two once. Lol
(Durabond "can be" sanded, but, it's like sanding steel compared to soft wood. )
Never use 2 types of mud, on a finish coat.
As you sand, you could, will, break thru to the different type, and, the two will sand differently, leaving holes and craters that are a huge pain to repair.
Hope all this helps someone.
I learned the hard way, and, I'm still learning ways to improve speed and quality.
Absolutely no need for this mix ! ! !
Just another DAM. GIMMICK ! ! !
Do you still use horse whip?
Ever use "one pass"? It kind of works like a plaster because you can wet it (I usually use it on 2nd or 3rd coat) before it is completely set and smooth it out. Sand after 90 minutes and paint the same day
i was taught the sanding wasn't just to smooth the drywall. it makes a huge difference when painting the wall. most common example is when a doorknob gets punched through a wall. Patch the wall, don't sand it, then paint it. it will forever be a very shiny patch that stands out dramatically on the wall. sanding drywall prevents that.
Great product, thanks for making it look easy.
A few comments - I just had a similar project and using the quickset 20 minute was a mistake in my case too. If I would’ve just use the standard Muddskip product with an all purpose, I would’ve had zero sand which I quickly saw on the other side of my project when I changed.
One other comment on the fire retardant test you need two layers of the drywall mud and two layers of the Muddakip. That’s where you’ll see a big difference.
Awesome presentation and especially being transparent of your skill set 👍👍👍👍👍this I’m sharing on my facebook page thank you great job👏👏👏
I knew a guy who would let his joints set up a few minutes and then do a wipe with a wet sponge andthe sanding was minimum worked good..
I've done that myself in the past with fair results. I believe at the time it was called 'wet sanding'.
In the late 1990's, I built my own house but had a professional drywaller do the taping; he never did any sanding and used regular drywall mud but he watered it down to a consistency he liked. If memory serves me correctly, it might have been regular drywall mud followed by the "lite" type mud for the subsequent coats. He troweled on the finishing coats with varying lengths of taping trowels, very thin, like paper, and it came out great. Then, for the final coats, I sprayed a "knockdown" on the walls with a hopper gun and "knocked" that down with my 10" to 14" taping trowels. Never sanded anything that I can remember and it came out great after painting.
I think your knockdown hid a lot of issues.
@@demophys4883That is why popcorn ceilings were popular with builders. Just spray it on, no finishing, and no sanding.
The whole point of texturing wall sis to hide the imperfections, although most texture jobs are nothing but exaggerated imperfections.
@@demophys4883 I'm sure it did, but it saved me a lot of sanding and it still looked great after it was painted.
Sanding results in a layer of dust that if not thoroughly cleaned and sealed can result in paint that peels off.
Great job. Good review of the product and informative.
Great video and Thank You so much for the shoutout Brent!💥👏🏻🙏😎
Great video Brent. I have used this product and it is awesome. As others have mentioned, while it does make hot/setting mud easier to apply, you really don't need to use it because Muddskip allows you to add more layers without waiting until the next day. Hot mud or setting mud is notoriously hard to apply and very hard to sand. Your difficulty sanding I believe was related to the hot mud not the Muddskip. Also because 20 minute mud starts to set up very quickly, you often don't get a smooth surface unless you are very fast. One of the very big benefits of Muddskip is NO SANDING! It also feathers very nicely. Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!
LOVE hearing that and thanks so much for sharing. I'm obviously not a professional drywaller so its great to hear from someone that has used this product on a larger scale and I completely agree with everything you said. Thanks so much for the support.
I use cornice cement, then mix in plaster accelerator each hawk load. Once the cornice cement has set ,then scrape off high spots. I can use the same bucket of cornice cement for both coats. Because the accelerator set the cement from hawk in 5 minutes. Once the second coat is touch dry then a wet sponge over and "polish" for a near perfect finish. I only use this method occasionally. More for the practice and to keep me amused during a day of drywall. Used mainly on small concrete ceilings and previously cement rendered walls.
Here’s some words of advice from a 40 year Drywall pro that I teach on my channel. One is a video like this makes it look easier and makes it look like it came out better than it did. When you light drywall work at a 90° angle it hides most of the defects so you don’t see them on videos like this. The big DIY shows major network shows do the same thing.
Next as many have pointed out that you should never use regular compound with mesh tape. I’ve put on at least 500 rolls of mesh tape with no problem because I always use fast setting joint compound as it is required.
So watch videos like this and support their channel but realize that you don’t want to take too much advice from videos like this. I try to simplify it for everybody and give you the right advice so that you can do it right.
I’m going to have to test out that product myself someday
I always use a harsh side light for mudding AND painting. And I just haven't had good luck with wet sanding on large surfaces, especially if the wall is not textured. It ends up looking smooth at first, but the wet sponge tends to follow ridges and valleys, instead of making it all smooth. I've done wet sanding on patches, when its on a textured wall. That seems to work out great.
Pro Tip 1. Always use a fill coat first on those cracks/joints
Pro Tip 2. Use FibaFuse tape in preference to mesh or paper
Pro Tip 3.SAND - if you want a good finish
Really good you tube DYI video telling me something I did not know. keep it up.
Thanks for the info and demo 🎉❤
I have to try this. I hate mudding for the very reason of sanding. I do have a question of whether or not I can use this concoction to patch plaster walls. I have a reno project in mind where the walls have sections of plaster up to 10" wide and other areas riddled with small nail holes. My idea was to place 3/8 SR and just start from there. But if this stuff combined with the skimming blade would work..... A very well done video, thanks
That is awesome thank you so much for sharing
Very thorough demonstration
I'm 67 years old and one (or maybe two) days of resting up between coats is just fine with me! But I'm working on my own home with no customer breathing down my neck. I can see how a one-day installation would be fantastic for professionals. Speaking of one day, there is an annual "House-In-A-Day" project as a fundraiser in my area. I would never want to own one of those houses but I have been curious how they do it--especially the drywall. Maybe this is how.
Great video Brent. Couple pro tips - Fire retardant - Muddskip with Hot Mud performs amazing. Confirmed with Manufacturer, should not use premix mud for fire resistance. Also, don't need Hotmud when you using this Muddskip additive, game changer for crews because it saves time. All the no sanding doubters should try it, it works!
You've got your technique down like a pro - great job! Cheers from Seattle!
After paying a professional handyman to do a few jobs and watching him along with asking some direct questions, I have the following tips:
1. MIX MUD YOURSELF -- Stay away from the pre-mixed stuff. I used this until seeing that my handyman only used dry bags that he mixed. Get either a 20 min or 45 min bag and mix in your own water. However ONLY mix small amounts that you will use within the time listed on the bag. I learned by using the leftover's he'd after a job. Initially I wasted 20 min bags because I mixed too much so i preferred the 45 bags but now I can use either with tip #2. These bags are around $10-15 and they wont spoil or harden if the lid is left open too long and/or not put on tightly. most likely you'll only need 1 or 2 bags in your lifetime unless you are doing a huge job. NOTE: My handyman says the dray bag also result in a stronger wall and patch.
2. SPEED UP DRYING with a HEAT GUN -- Regardless of using 20 min, 45 min, or the premixed stuff you can speed up drying times so you can do multiple coats in a single day. The way to do this is to get a heat gun and set it up after your coat is done. You can get a heat gun for less than $30. Depending on how good you are you can even reduce the times listed on the bag. BONUS: This also speeds up the drying timeframe paint and stains.. and you can also use the tool for some crafts and/or paint stripping.
3. REDUCE OR ELIMINATE CLEANUP - Buy a vacuum sander. This is a shop vacuum attachment that will result in little, if any, clean up after sanding. I paid around $20-25 dollars several years ago, it is about $31 now, still worth it!!
When I have wide gaps to fill I use Bondo. It hardens in minutes. And I apply it leaving only a small enough void to fill with one application of dry wall patch. Usually within an hour the thin layer of patch dries and doesn't sink enough that I have to apply more. Light sanding and I'm ready to paint.
I can see an advantage to using this on ceilings that aren't being textured after finishing.
When I learned how to do drywall, way back in the early 2k's, we did three coats, first with a six inch, then with an 8-10 inch and finaliziing with a 12" and we almost had no sanding. I think the wider blades, like the 12" or the skimming blade, plays more of an effect than the additive. That being said, its just a theory, ive never used mudskip, so I cant say for certain.
I think the product is good and you did a good job
Can easily do that with regular quick set mud 😂
That small space
3 coats in 30mins
Done n done
A note on sanding. Apply setting compound in layers and use your drywall knives to scrape the peaks off when set. Then apply finish coats and scrape. Final touch-up will require minimal sanding.
As an amateur I also scrape instead of sanding. It still takes me "a bit of forever" to finish my small patch. But I dislike the sanding part. So the time spent is worth it at least for me
"I'm not a pro so I need 2 to 3 coats"
Bro.. even professionals need 2 to 3 coats to do a decent job. 1 is never enough if you are trying to conceal any type of tape.
Thanks for this video - I learned a great deal! This ranks VERY high on my list of invaluable home repair tips!!!
I’ve never seen any of your other uploads, but I agree that the saved time and energy by using these products was well worth dedicating a video to them.
Looks great thank you❤
Very intriguing 😎👍
Good to know, thanks.
Thank you
Check out prc taper. Also you don’t need to sand between coats just scrape any over laps or lines left from the previous coat . Use 45 minute instead of 20 and it still dries pretty fast with a fan in the area . All in all it looks perfectly fine .. from my house lol :)
Old school, here. I prefer 5 min bag, for tape, 20 min bag, and +3 joint compound for topper/ finish.
Only scraping first two coats. And if it is a smaller job. Using damp sponge method. Sanding only on larger jobs.
You sound like you're a taper loll. Using sheetrock and being able to skim the fine working lines takes years of experience especially if you're dealing with bigger patches and/or butt joints. For the average guy they are better off just using regular mud, sand it down properly and then applying another 10 coats til it's smooth. Loll.
If you prefill joints with confill before applying tape it sets up within 45 minutes then you can take it with synko taping mud "yellow" box it will adhere to the confill as it has glues in the mud. Then tou can coat over that after 20 minutes with synko classic finish ( red box ) if you feather it out enough and let it dry properly so there's no delayed shrink back use heater and fan and crack open a window for ventilation. Can sand most things next day . Works great for small projects
Yo' Jordan, I'm no Mudder yet I come from another Mudder. When I seen this clip I stopped to hear what was being said...just like you, the first thing I could think was just, how much does this product cost and Synko Concrete Fill!... as for your comment of pre filling the joint with Con-Fiil, that's brilliant idea that I didn't think of.. The thought comes now is, due to the hardness of the Con-fill would the joint not crack behind the tape and provide a future repair?.... as for the concept I'm going to try it. I once suggested Con-Fill product to a person who lives in the USA... They have informed me he could not purchase this product in the US. Con-fill comes in large 25Kg (that's 50lbs ish) and a little can go along way... just another note: Stay away from mesh tape on butt joints, it will always provide entertainment you wont want... and thanks Jordan for posting...
Very specific language
i appreciate the honesty in this setup. if this were my home i'd be sufficiently happy. i am not a professional and while i appreciate the skill and efficiency of am professional, i don't think they are worth the price they charge for the last little bit of perfection (which even they don't always provide). i do things for myself not only to save money but also to learn; and because professionals are increasingly less reliable, less professional and simultaneously more pricy. there are certainly times and places where a truly skilled professionals are well worth the cost, but it isn't clear which ones are worth the cost until it is too late, which means d.i.y is still often better in those cases.
You should try shooting the mud through a mark 5 sprayer . I use that for skim coating sand finish ceilings and foyers so you don’t see joints from
The torn up recycled paper wall board they make today. . Works really well
I'm gonna have to try this! I gotta do some sheetrockin, my favorite thing to do too! Thx for the share!!
Wow, you discovered hot mud, congratulations!
Awesome video! Thank you, this is good to know.
Great to hear and thanks so much for the continued support.
How long before the joints cracked?
Drywall YT channels worth checking out:
-That Kilted Guy
-Vancouver Carpenter
-Home Renovision
Don't forget Laurier Desormeaux. Vancarp is enjoyable :)
But, if I can finish all the drywall projects in one day, I'll need another name for my house: formerly known as "The Land of Unfinished Projects".
This drywall was messed up for months. If I didn't have this video idea to fix the drywall I don't know if it would have ever been fixed lol!
@@BYOToolsThis is kind of sad, man. You literally did something that needed to be done, just for social media 🤦🏼♂️
😂
Strong sideways light shows you the imperfections while mudding and sanding AND darkening the room enhances the effect of the light. If you have no shutters you can darken the room with trashbags and masking tape. Forgive my English God bless you from a Serb.
i have been using plasterboard adhesive here in UK and it works better than standard skim
Interesting product. It seems like you have to be fast or not mix too much if I understand it right. I like that tip of using a misting sprayer. A tool I found that I really like is a 14" Tex Master Magic Trowel. It has a firm rubber blade that is tapered at the ends. It would work well with this product. Good video.
Thanks for suggestion
You do a good job I just got done plastering and wish I’d known about this product
Thanks for the info. I've problems with mesh tape and always use paper but use pretty wet mud to bed it down. Dry tape will bubble.
Dip the tape in water before applying.
Fibafuse fixes all problems with both products you mentioned. I don't know any professionals not using now.
Something else you can add to a video. When applying mud run your trowel in the same direction as the seam. Put your index finger on the side of the trowel that is away from the seam. What that does is adds a little more pressure on the outside giving you a more feathered edge (less sanding). I personally never sand mud. I have sponges that you use for grouting ceramic tiles that have an abrasive side. Wait until your mud is 95% dry, wet your sponge and use a circular motion over the mud. The sponge will take down the high spots and the excess mud on your sponge will fill in any lines or crevices. The wax on, wax off method will make it so there won’t be any dust in the room.
I luv the stuff
Sheetrock Durabond comes in 90 minute 45 min.30 min and 20 min dry time. One part mix with water does the same thing. A sponge float will smooth the surface. You can shave any high spots with a taping knife before it becomes super hard. If you are concerned with moisture add a little latex to the mix though it may slow the dry time.
And for the real cowboys, 5 min😂
And 5
this one i can say great.
i am a novice but i stopped sanding back in the 80's after i saw a drywall company doing walls in a mall. water and a sponge! however this product for the not having to wait is cool
is the mud also insulating material?
Great video. I will try it next time I dry wall. Question: How do you get all that mud off your pants? I like the technique of using your pants as a cleaning rag but I can't imagine what your washing machine looks like after washing your pants.
use rapid set (5,20,40 min) muds over hardened but not 100% cured 1st coats without any issues......last coat is tight pass with topping.....very very little sanding needed......scrape in between coats
no fancy tools or mud....
the issue is trying to do too much with 1 coat......most taping takes 2 or 3 coats and 2 can be done back to back......let it dry and next day a tight skim of topping and your done
technique is the key....tape along the seam and not across you'll get better results
Use fast setting "hot"mud to fill the gap first, and for then taping with mesh.
Amazing finish..for a non pro... where can I but this in the UK???? do let us know thanks!
Small tip, run your trowel up the outside corner to remove excess Mud. I see too many here leaving the buildup and makes a bad corner. Always clean up your beads.
if you use mesh tape , if there is any movement in the wall the mesh tape will crack, never use mesh tape for joint tape , mesh tape is designed to use on patches only , the mesh is not solid therefore it gives more than paper tape .
this is a mistake most inexperienced people do thinking the mesh tape is quicker ,
joints should be taped with paper tape not mesh tape.
also do not use mesh tape on corners either because the mesh tape will split crack & the corner will bust out.
( small patches only ) on the proper use of mesh tape.
Use durabond and no tape it won’t crack.
I use easy sand 20 and use all these same techniques and they work without the extra expense. I use a M-Town plaster trowel and a hawk. I use a solo bottle with fine mist and mud it up like plaster. This product seems like its an additive that could easily be skipped just by doing the same technique with regular hot mud.
Back in the day they use to add Ivory liquid dish soap to smooth the mud, the skimming blade tool you showed is a plaster tool because you don't always sand plaster jobs over lathe, these are gimmicks and a pro wouldn't need them to get the same results but it all needs to be sanded before paint whether it's the painter or the drywall man.
After watching the finale, I have determined this is a soap of sorts and you used a lot of mud for the area, Drywall paint is for the paper not the mud so if you just do the seems and nails you could use the sealer paint but that's what good quality paint does at a cheaper price but thank you for entertaining us.
Thanks
In the early days, prior to the introduction of sheetrock, real plaster never was sanded anyway.
They just kept troweling!
Thank You
Pretty cool!
Great video. Appreciate the hard work trying this out. But do you actually recommend this? The final finished flatness looks like sh*t at 13:45. For a garage this is great, but is this what a finished interior home walls should look like? I'm just confused on the title and messaging.
I've done drywall professionally. There are drywall knives with handles that make it real easy to hold the blade and make the surface as smooth as possible. You have to have the blade sharpened before you use it.
I can’t help but ask as I’m new to your channel and may have missed something: The bottom green portion of your wall looks grafted in, but you didn’t tape, you just dove right in with your skimcoat. Does this additive permit one to forego the taping part??
Paul Peck is one of my favs, too.
What is the brand of the skimming trowel you bought?
Good job!
I just finished drywalling my 54sq ft cabin ans thia could have been a game changer! I am a hack so i use more mud than a pro would which means i have to sand a lot.....this would have helped!
Only mud the joints and the screw heads and any low spots- you don't need to mud the whole thing like this guy did if it is all new construction.
Awesome knee pads. Pro knees knee pads are the best
They truly are! Gotta take care of your body and worth the money in my opinion. Thanks for watching.
We need a paint product being like this that has some grains to build thickness that you can paint over before drying fully. Paint with grains that fills those imperfections, you brush it on, then use roller or paint brush to add a top layer that forms the "mirror"-finish
Great job I wish I would’ve seen this video two weeks ago lol.. 😂
Nice work, good video. I am a taper, and use a hawk and trowel for a living, so I was yelling at the screen watching you use the trowel......
Cheers.
LOL! Way to keep it honest and positive. Nothing more satisfying to see in my book then an expert drywall taper. Obviously it takes years of practice to be as officiant as your guys are. Thanks so much for watching.
A way to do drywall without having to sand is to put on 4 or 5 very, very thing coats. No additional product is needed and the sanding is so minimal. I usually can scrape my trowel over the top for lower layers with zero sanding. I only sand before the last layer. If you do it thin enough each layer will dry in about 60 mins.
For patch and repair. Just buy light blue and send it lol. That shit dries in 45-hr if not you're using too much water and also probably need to shim your walls or measure your board to meet better. Shouldn't be more than an 1/8-3/16 in gap between boards. Just enough to allow mud in. Shim your wall don't go straight to skim coating.
Tip, use corner bead or wood trim for outside corners !
I've been a taper since 1977, it seems like a waste of money!!!
I have never seen anybody put on from side to side!!!
Get your self a set of knives and a pan!!!
Just saying for a friend!!!
But I did watch your video!!!
I guess they don't sell fast drying mud where you live ,which has been around for many years.
I covered wood paneling, and this product would've made that job so much easier.
Thanks again, Don! I wish you’d interview a good Ecuadorian CPA when you go back.
Very interesting, how long did it take to fully dry before you could paint?
less then 24 hours. I did have a heater going in the garage overnight and was able to sand it the next morning. Good question and thanks for watching.