How to Flush a Water Heater? | Flushing Will Probably Not Fix Your Problem
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 май 2020
- Don't flush your money down the drain by hiring someone to flush your water heater. The Grumpy Plumber hates it when people are told to flush their water heaters. It probably won't fix your problem. Save your money!
Jim shares the common problems with hot water heaters, diagnosing the true problem, and how to fix common hot water heater problems.
Subscribe for no-nonsense plumbing advice from Jim Fromholz - The Grumpy Plumber.
Shop for your Grumpy Plumber t-shirt, hoodie, or sticker here: grumpy-plumber.myspreadshop.com/
10% of shop sales go to support the trades by the Mike Rowe WORKS Foundation.
Thanks for watching! WARNING: Jim shares a controversial (to some in our community) troubleshooting solution to foul-smelling water in OLD water heaters. Everyone has an opinion, so please share yours below. Thanks again for watching and CLICK SUBSCRIBE for more plumbing advice.
I have ALWAYS wondered what that horrible smell is/was...doesn't happen in propane water heater only in electric water heater. THANK YOU!!
Never flush your water heater??? I'm always skeptical of anyone who uses the term "never" or "always." Not all, but most areas have lime/calcium in the water. You will see evidence of this as white water spots on your drinking glasses and as a white crust on shower heads. Lime is corrosive. The accumulation of lime will eventually create pin-holes in the water heater vessel. At that point, replacement of the water heater is the only option.
Anode replacement should be replaced.
Change the standard magnesium rod to an aluminum one. Some water chemistries make the rods gas off as they breakdown.
DimebagVision, you are a guy after my own heart!!
My Dad was a plumber & he never flushed the water heater. He never told me it needed to be flushed either. If he were here, he would be 85. I appreciate your Dad.👏
My dad wasn't a plumber, but had a couple of friends in different trades. One was a plumber who told him not to bother flushing it. My dad is 88; a Marine, and still not too proud to listen to advice. I appreciate this guy's dad too.
The mechanics car is always the last to get fixed. Just because he didn't do it does not mean it is not a good idea. Common sense- get the dirt out...unless you enjoy showering and brushing your teeth with that type of cruddy, smelling water. I flushed mine a few times and the water did not look very good. It can also get into your new washing machine, dishwasher, etc.
I think it depends on your region.
About electric models: 99% of anode rods are factory installed as Aluminum. If you get a smell, change it out to Magnesium [$13 +/-] with a impact wrench and a 1-1/16 socket. After 10 years, change the rod no matter what. Usually it is gone. If you still get odors, change to a electric anode. They work, and are what keep underground gas pipelines lines from leaking. Without an anode, end of life is near.
Flushing: Some of us have very hard water- my water heater produces about 5 gallons of calcium sediment every 5 years. I always remove the factory crap drain valve and install a ball valve. Now you can open the valve and go to work with a coat hanger while the inlet is partially on. Indeed, some homes can go 20++ years without a flush and maybe just a few elements and an anode.
Anodes don't flake off and fill cracks in the glass or epoxy lining. Rather the anode is sacrificial and is there to be the easiest metal to 'rust' -when the rod is gone, the tank becomes the target of corrosion.
Electric water heaters used to be very cheap until recently, like $189 at Ace hardware. Now they are well over $400+. For some peculiar reason Costco had a closeout on GE electric water heaters, 50 gallon for $99 delivered. Bought three as the detachable parts alone are worth more than that! Go figure.
Are you a plumber because you make more sense than him
@@roberta9950 Thanks, I am a builder and try and get deep into the nuances of each trade.
I would like to add that sediment swirls inside a water heater abrading the plastic fill tube, Especially on the fancy heaters with the curved fill tube. As the heater replenishes the water used, it introduces the cold water at the bottom so as to keep the hot water at the top for use. when the fill tube gets perforated, the cold water dilutes the hot water making warm or worse, cold water. I've seen fill tubes that looked like swiss cheese with literally thousands of holes in them. Eventually the fill tube will just disintegrate and the cold water will fill on the top and go right out the hot side giving a no hot water impression. Obviously this is all worse on a well system that may get fine sand in the tank but any sediment in the tank will work the same.
Richard is spot on. I have been in the building business for 45 yrs and I'm a critical bastard.. like to do things right. Being a builder, with many personal friends who are/were plumbers, this is the consensus in the industry. Situations can very, depending on your water, from a little to a lot of build up. I feel sediment build up will effect a gas heater more, as the heat transfer surface is starting to be covered/affected right from the start. In an electric, it takes quite a few inches to reach the bottom element.
Put in the better drain valve when it's new, and clean every year, if needed. You'll be able to get a feel how often yours needs it after a couple times draining.
He is also correct on the sacrificial anode.
@@TW14137 Thanks. So many plumbers just dont really care about or understand water heaters. Builders that provide a complete product are more likely to have a deeper understanding of a homes components.
Been a plumber for 30 years in Maine and 2 years in AZ , I’m now in Florida. My professional opinion, if you have bad water , sand, hard water . You will want to flush the water heater , it WILL last longer . I Recently bought a house and the water heater is older , I flushed 5 gallons of calcium out of the bottom , the heater was “kettling “ . I solved all the issues and also lowered my electric bill . Yes, I did change the valve at the bottom to help clean properly and also removed the lower element to gain better access to flush with water and used snake camera to see what I was doing.
Was thinking I need to clean mine because it sounds the same, popping after turning on for a few minutes. I live in Las Vegas and the water is very hard, a lot of calcium. I'd say it really depends on the water.
Def necessary in Florida I had a 5 gallon bucket of milk come out. Then everything heated quicker
We have hard well water. The first time our lower heat element burned out I removed it and was amazed how much calcium was piled up on the bottom. I made a spatula out of a piece of copper pipe that fit into the hole for the heating element and carefully scooped out most of the crud. Flushing would not get it out. Now I do this every couple of years and the heating elements don't burn out because they don't get buried in sediment and overheat. The unit is still working and it's 30 years old!
Would you recommend flushing a gas water heater and changing the valve on the bottom to facilitate cleanin?
What would be the typical cost of flushing ?
A couple comments; Number 1, If you have water pressure coming into your house over 60 psi, you should install a pressure regulator. This is a common practice in many areas.
Number 2, depending on you water quality (especially pertaining to calcium), sometimes flushing the tank does help. I attach a small piece of garden hose to a shop vac and use it to suck sediment from the bottom.
Overall though dad is right, way too much emphasis placed on flushing, but in some cases and areas it is necessary.
With the correct pressure and a little maintenance, I have had tanks last 30+ years.
What about orange or brown water? I have it coming out of my bathtub for a few seconds. In called my water tank company they said to flush it
@@GRRRRRRRRRRME Assuming your water supply is good, I would guess this is more a problem with your supply lines than the hot water tank.
I wonder if the tanks in the old days are made with thicker steel? No one seems to mention this aspect. I never flush my tank just because I didn't know there was a the tank life expectancy...new home owner. I purchased my new home in 2002 and the water tank leak exactly the year it was stated on the tank and then the tank I replaced leaked exaclty 1 year before it was support to expire. I was going to replace it based on the life expectancy year stated on the tank so now I don't trust that number anymore. It seems like the manufacturer know exactly then the tank will leak if you don't flush it regularly. I live in Southern California so I wonder if flushing the tank would help.
@@thecsucihai You are probably correct in your thinking that old hot water tanks may have used thicker steel. I really don’t know for sure. I do know some new tanks are better than others. I always recommend spending a little more on a better quality tank, since installation labor is a big part of the equation. I personally have a gas hot water tank that was installed in 1990 and it has never been flushed. It still works great. My high end water pressure is set at 60psi and I have a water softener.
@@Steve-kl3mo I have a Rheem Performance Platinum 12 years life. I will update the status of my tank in 2032 :) I suggest people with tank that are still going strong after 20-30 years let us know what brand and model they have.
Being a plumber in Fl, I have drained plenty of water heaters, especially the once’s on well water. Not unusual for me to get a couple gallons of sediment out of them. By flushing and back flushing numerous times, sometimes the sediment gets so high in the tank that it shorts out the bottom element. Just saying, it can help.
Herd, im a tech at apartments and i flush every tank i put new elements in. Also, elements are like brake pads, change both at the same time!
Agree 100%. I get a bucket of sediments every two years! If I don’t clean the sediments the bottom heating element gets toast!
I drained mine and I got nothing but water that came out what a waste!
Where in Florida do you reside? Do you disclose prices for your work? Mine is well water. I'm in Wesley Chapel. My husband tried & couldn't figure it out.
@@hazeleyezluv you can RUclips it. It’s not a difficult procedure. All you really need is a garden hose to drain the tank.
I’m a plumber for 40 years and for 40 years I’ve been saying don’t flush the water heaters !!!! 👍👍
I habe have an low peak electric water heater any idea why it would not be working?
The magnesium rod is a sacrificial anode. It is there to save your heater from corrosion. Dissimilar metals will create electrolysis and will disintegrate the metals. Replace this anode every 5 or so years. That's why you have dielectric fittings on your inlet and outlet as well.
Thanks a bunch. I live on the east coast and have a 10-year-old electric water heater. I was seriously thinking of draining it and now I won't. I appreciate your knowledge.
I wasn't gonna like the video until he said 'if you didn't like it go to hell'. Liked.
I agree that hell comment just proves dad is ignorant.
Great video! But - the magnesium rod is actually there as the anode to prevent the higher metals from rusting. On boats, we attach a zinc plate to the bottom, then it takes all the stray electrical current and can be replaced instead of having all the other metal on the boat rust.
Christopher Westfall, you're right about anode design. Old Grumpy Plumber shouldn't be passing on bum info.
Yes he really didn't why the Anonde rod is there, also didn't talk about well water as opposed to city water.
Correct. I'm a plumber of 18 years. I like Grumpy Plumbers attitude but I can't agree with his beliefs on this topic.
Even our little tiny camper (6 gallon tank) water heater has an anode rod. Makes sense that larger tanks also have one. To not replace it makes no sense....it’s there for a reason!
How can I get rid of “hammering?” I’ve already tried opening all spigots and then turn it on again. Didn’t work. Help!
Your dad isn't grumpy, he's knowledgeable and willing to share it. He's a damn treasure Thanks Mr. Jim!
He's giving bad advice. He stopped learning years ago.
After 62 years on this planet- I can say that based on my experience, due to the difference in construction and design, your gas water heater will usually last 6-10 years, where electric water heaters last 10-20. My father installed his 80 gallon electric water heater in 1948 and it lasted until 2006!
Our homes have always had electric water heaters, where as our business building my father owner had gas-which we replaced at least 4 times in the 42 years I can recall before he sold it. They always end up leaking.
As far as the anode rods-like your father says-IF you get the hydrogen sulfide gas coming from your water heater, remove the rod. I have always just pulled it and cut the rod off of the plug fitting at the top and reinstalled the fitting. No more odor after the residual in the tank is gone!
Bless your father-he is priceless!
The whole reason the bottom element will burn out is the sediment which means flushing out any of that junk will prolong the life of the tank. Mine is 18 years old and still works great. Flush once a year.
I have two. One is 19 years old other is 11. Never been flushed....as recommended by my father in law. The retired plumber
@@mikej238 So your retired father who was a plumber recommended that you do NOT flush?
My house is 17 years old with original water heater, never been flushed.
9 months later and still going strong. 19 years old.
@@mikej238 it depends on what kind of eater you have , we have lots of lime so we have to flush and take out the sediments !
And anyone that tells you not to is a n idiot !
And the water pressure coming to a home is never 150 pli and it’s not going to cause a water heater to go bad ! Water heater is set to a 150 psi pop off valve !
I bet tgis old man would tell you that you can’t replace the cathode rod in a water heater too !
I've been a plumber for 30 years and I think it's very important to flush the hot water heater especially gas that sediment sits on the bottom of the heater which acts like a insulator therefore the gas water heater doesn't work as efficient and believe me the ones I have drained or flushed a lot of crap comes out of them
It is called a water heater, not a hot water heater. Why would anyone want something to heat hot water? Add a water softener and a water filter the sediment will no longer be an issue.
@@scomeau66 soft water does nothing for the water heater except speeds up process of destroying it saltwater is not good for the water heater and when the soft water pops you get these beads through out the whole house and in every fixture. water softeners no good now get a water treatment system is a lot better
@@frankhoward3120 First of all you clearly have no idea what is inside a water softener. If you have ever opened one you would know that there is no possibility of beads or more appropriately resin, breaking out and circulating through the pipes. Someone would have had to purposely damage the secondary screen after somehow screwing up the resin bed strainer. After that, the beads which resemble glass would have to somehow float through over two feet of water. Marbles don't float upwards through water neither would the resin beads inside a water softener. You are making an unrealistic claim to impose an unrealistic fear. Do you have any clue what water treatment is? I guess not. Fundamentally water treatment is filtration. And the more filtered the more pure your water is. The first step is physical filtration with a mesh or fabric then series of ever reducing sized aggregate called a media filter. Then a water softener to remove minerals that would otherwise quickly clog up your next step, a carbon filter. The water softener primarily removes Calcium and Magnesium however it is fundamentally a filter, a water treatment filter. Then an Activated Carbon (AC) filter which removes so very much. Like Organic chemicals, Pesticides, chloroform, VOC’s Solvents, Industrial cleaners and most importantly Chlorine. Without a water softener, your Carbon filter will capture the Calcium and Magnesium. it will also foul up pretty quickly. The removal of chorine with the AC is important to protect the Reverse Osmosis membrane. A quality RO membrane that resembles spaghetti, not one of the Thin Film Composite versions. Now you will have very clean water. To go further would be to de-ionize the water with an EDI system and purge it with Ozone. At that point it would be USP water suitable for pharmaceutical manufacturing. An Ozone destruct unit would be installed before any use point. With fewer than 100 cfu, an a TOC of less than 500 and conductivity of 1.3 TS. (For reference drinking water has a specification of only less than 500 CFU.) This cleaned water is good for Pharma but still dirty as it would have bacterial endotoxins. There is no criteria for the number of endotoxins allowed in drinking water. To remove endotoxins you need to take your pharma water (USP Water) and distill it. Then you get Water For Injection or WFI’y water. Which is what is in your vaccine injection. This is very clean water but still dirty for one last industry which would be microprocessors. They require ultra-pure water 18.2 meg. ohm. Water so clean that it goes bad when exposed to air. It absorbs CO2 which destroys/contaminates the water and lowers its resistivity. If you were to drink ultra-pure water it would suck minerals (electrolytes) out of your organs. That is what water treatment is. Some, all, or parts, water treatment removes contaminates. Back to the water softener, you know the thing that removes contaminants like calcium and magnesium. Your sad argument (yes truly sad) doesn’t hold water. While what you are saying makes perfect sense in that soft water is bad for a water heater. It is like saying the Fifth nuclear bomb will hurt. The hard water is worse for your water heater and your household fixtures. It is a frivolous argument because the minerals that a water softener removes are far more damaging than the softened water. I get ten-plus years out of every tank-style water heater. Well over 100 water heaters with no maintenance whatsoever. Some with water softeners some without. If a water softener was as bad as you think, the resolution would be to simply spend $40 to replace the anode rod every so often. While I find all water heater services to have diminishing returns. If you are worried about a water softener's adverse effects on your water heater, then $40 is certainly a very small price to pay to counter those effects that come with the benefits of softened water which are lower scale buildup inside your water heater and the reduced scale build up on your household fixtures. Softened water is better for your skin and your hair and for washing your clothes. Yes, my friend without a water softener there are numerous drawbacks in addition to the increase of scale in your entire water system. Which requires far more effort to remove than it would to replace the $40 anode. (By the way, for some odd reason, all of my anodes have lasted the full life of the water heater. So, even the basic claim that soft water is bad for water heaters appears to have been considered by the manufacturers and the anode rods are properly sized to counteract the small negative effects of softened water, negating your claim of damage, ultimately making your comments to be that of unrealistic fear.) Not to mention the water softener incidentally removes sediment which would otherwise compromise your water heater (creating an insulating mass on the bottom of your tank as well as your entire plumbing system.) In either case, the cost of servicing a water heater far exceeds any benefits as they are specified to last 10 years. They meet that specification easily without any service. And when it fails after its expected lifespan are you really going to be surprised that it didn’t last longer than the manufacturer specified it would? By pure physical action, the water softener removes particulates that would otherwise settle in your water heater. Sediment which can never be fully flushed without significant effort. Obviously, it degrades the efficiency and lifespan of a water heater. Fundamentally anyone installing a water softener should be bright enough to install a water filter before it to remove the entrained sediment. With that being said, the water you consume should be full of minerals. When installing a water softener a knowledgeable person will run a separate line of hard water to the kitchen sink.
@@frankhoward3120 Whoa, you really got schooled hard.
@@frankhoward3120 Water softeners do not produce salt water. The brine is used to clean the resin bed which is then flushed out, removing the brine.
Flushing makes a lot of sense depending on the water quality. If you get the rotten egg smell, switch from magnesium to aluminum, OR get that new electric anode solution which works incredibly well.
Thank you! I was just getting ready to flush my water heater due to it being only a year old. The one i had in before it lasted 14 years and I never flushed it. The installer said I needed to flush the new one every 6 months but I was think more like a years due to I am the only one using it and why waste the water. I feel better now knowing it is not really necessary. again thanks!!!
This is freaking PERFECT. Now RUclips is going to think that I'm into PLUMBING or something. That's all.
I have told people exactly the same thing but they don’t believe it. He is absolutely correct. I have been a plumber since 1967.
A you from mi?
@@victoriacousins4501 no, bc Canada.
yeah, but your lively hood depends on shit breaking :-P ie: people being lazy about doing maintenance.
No disrespect but you’re wrong here and so is he. I repair water heaters, boilers etc all day long and there are issues that come from not draining and flushing your water heater.
@@larryzeka5011
What kind of issues?
I have a residential, natural gas water heater that’s about 2 years old and I’ve been considering whether to flush it or not. It operates perfectly right now. Flushing is real easy since it’s in the basement near a drain.
Ramblings from a grumpy power plant engineer:
The magnesium rod preferentially corrodes instead of the steel tank. They do the same thing with metal ship hulls in the ocean. It does work very effectively, but they eventually dissolve away and soon after the tank fails (they are designed to be a size that's very well understood, the tank with longer warranties? They have bigger magnesium rods) If you can, replacing from time to time is not a bad idea.
The rotten eggs smell is from hydrogen-sulfide gas produced by iron-eating bacteria that can live in your well water or pipes. It has nothing to do with the water heater. The water heater being set >120F kills it all, but the gas is still in solution from the well. Hot water can't hold as much gas as cold, so you notice it more in your hot water because it moves along the pipes from the heater with the water and comes out immediately once it leaves the faucet or shower head.
Where we do agree is that draining the heater is pretty pointless. Especially electric ones. The sediment that forms is far too large and coarse to "flush out" the tiny drains they put on the tank. Think, broken shells at the edge of the shore line and you've got a pretty good idea what hard water deposits look like. They form more in electrics because the elements cause local boiling (and swell when hot) and then when they cool they shrink again and all the deposits the just formed break off and sink to the bottom. My previous experience with an electric on very hard well water was it made about 5-gallons of crushed shell like deposits every 4-5 years... it also tended to wear out the heating elements faster due to the hard water. So I'd replace them, and while the hole was open, i'd stick in a bendy fitting on the shop vac and suck out the broken up deposits.
I also agree messing with your pressure relief valve is not worth the trouble. They do work, but they are cheap and cycling it is not going to do you any favors.
Deterioration of a water heater depends as much on the water characteristics as anything else.
Exactly
Municipal water supplies are all different considering sources have tested gives you a heads-up on intervals on anode or tank replacements agree strongly good guys advice on topic of oxidation and corrosion of water heaters in home's...😔
True, here in Wyoming we have a lot of calcium buildup which kills a WH in short time. I'm lucky, mine is over 20 yrs old while friends have gotten as little as 7 yrs from one.
Yep. Hard water WILL create sediment in the bottom of a water heater. All a water heater is is a low temp boiler after all. When I put a new water heater in I remove the junky valve in the bottom and install a stainless nipple with full port ball valve. Attach a hose to that will give you good flow when flushing. I'm in the midwest with city water which is very hard. I also have a good quality softener. When I do flush, I never really have anything bad coming out.
I love the plumber and his knowledge about that rod.
This rod is actually has a name ANODE ROD.
If you buy the 6 years warranty heater - it has only 1 ANODE ROD.
12 years - will be almost the same heater with 2 ANODE RODs.
Why?
Because ANODE has a 2nd part in every battery - cathode.
Chemical reaction is going from cathode and anode - and anode is being destroyed by the reaction protecting cathode.
In the water heater cathode is all heater and anode is that anode rod which is being destroyed by the chemical reaction and PROTECTS your cathode - heater body.
So - DO NOT TRUST this guy!
Change your $20 ANODE ROD every 4-6 years to protect your heater.
and.. YES - it is like 27 mm socket and best is impact wrench - if this is not a hot water nipple with the rod down there.
II need also to mention - this anode rod is originally like a rod 3/4" in diameter and 4' long/
In 5 years it all almost gone... Where is it going to?
It is going to that sediment that you MUST to flush.
If you did not flush for a long time - YES it may clog you faucet down there.
This is going to be a fun part - you have to use a piece if hard wire to push that clog thru the open faucet and have a fun with the hot water on your hands. After the 1st time fun - you will not forget to do it next year.
2 more thing about the water pressure.
HE IS RIGHT. YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION TO THAT and not only because of the water heater but ALSO not metal piping like to dishwasher, refrigerator and washer.
1st - I have a water valve upfront of my house with 55 psi set and I am checking it often
2nd - I have a water expansion tank that protects from pressure building up inside the house due to the hot water expansion in the water heater.
Worked as a plumbers helper in high school (mid to late 70’s), North of Houston. We did new houses, Houston was growing due to most of the big oil companies moving here. Anyway the boss was a crusty old Polish guy from New Jersey, named Louie. He would say “hot water heater”, how do you heat (insert colorful language) hot water! Ever since I call it a water heater. On a high note I learned life skills in that job. Thanks for the video.
Water heater / hot water tank.
You heat hot water similar to taking heat out of cold air. - It's a relative argument, so it's not exactly wrong as the educated philosophers may maintain ☺.
@@louf7178 It's a COLD water heater......
@@leeclark6102 You missed the point, and I know there's no point in arguing with you. It's a circular argument since hot loses temperature. Also, it can be understood as a state and function title - hot water (state) heater (function). And, yes, "hot" water does need to be heated.
thats because most plumbers keep shit real . not like these safe space colored hair new plumbers we got these days , or the flip side of that is a guy who thinks he is hot shit cause he can make a turd go down hill and do it faster than others .. in the end , its just shit rolling down hill at 1/8 inch per foot , dont chew your finger nails and payday is every friday .. oh by the way fuck plumbers ! i was one off and on for over 15 years . commercial and residential new build and service side .. fuck plumbers !!
I had a new water heater installed about 5 yrs ago and was procrastinating about draining it. I’m glad that I did not drain it. I saw somewhere on RUclips channel AmplifyDIY that it’s recommended to drain it once per year and the Anode Rod every couple of yrs. This service running about $200-$300 which is touted extend the life to 30-40 yrs of use. Both proponents of draining and not draining state that doing gas or electric water heater tanks are rated to last 8-15 yrs. I don’t think I’ll be draining mine but will change the Anode Rod myself. Thanks for this info.
You are so lucky to have your Dad with you! What a sweet man.
Funny and informative...A great combination...Thanks for doing this...I do HVAC and have told people when they ask about flushing a water heater , Don't....Usually it creates a leak at the drain valve and they will need to cap it...I feel better knowing there is better reason and will share it...Again, thank you guys.
I like the Grumpy Plumber, he is a Straight shooter and tell it like it is. Over the years I learned, if its not broken don't touch it. Everything your Dad said is true.
@@larryzeka5011 lol
I agree with the theory 'if it's not broken, don't touch it' sometimes but with something's a little maintenance that costs nothing really goes a long way. Plumbers who tell you not to maintain your equipment, seem to gain the most. Would you believe a mechanic if he told you not to bother doing oil changes on your car?
@@dave8599 there is no warranty issue to worry after it expires and the anode rod wouldn’t even need to be changed out within the first 4 or 5 years or more.anyway! I believe his explanation of the purpose of the rod is incorrect. The rods purpose is for the minerals in the water to attack the rod instead of the tank walls. If it’s changed out every 4 or 5 years or so it supposedly can double the life of the water heater. How often they need to be changed depends on the source of and type of water. There is another video tutorial on you tube that shows the removal of the sediment from the bottom of the tank using a wet vac with slender clear hose attachment to fit through the heating element port (on an electric water heater). you’ll know when it needs to be cleaned out because it sounds like rocks tumbling around and it’s annoying to hear. It’s a very helpful video to watch and learn. Also, water softeners can erode a anode rod faster because of the salt used. My dad attempted to change his anode (Arizona water with a water softening system) and found there was only a stub 1” long of the 3’ long rod left and the water heater was only 6 years old!
@@larryzeka5011 Tell us why
You should apply that theory the next time you think about changing the oil in your car. Let us know how that works out for you.
I never liked the idea of the rod in the center and that's what erodes and damages the coil. Thirty-one years ago, I built a new house and I removed the rod from the water heater and plugged it. I still have the same water heater today. I replaced the coils last year and it's still working great!
😂😂 I been a hvac contractor for 20 years and I'm see thinks like your Dad and agree 100%. Thanks. Gus
Amazing how pros that have been in the business for decades can be so ignorant. I just watch RUclips videos and even I know that the rod is there to prevent corrosion of the tank.
I had no frickin idea Jeff Bridges knew so much about water heaters.
He's not the dude 🤦♂️ there's only one dude 😂
Spot on! That was a good one Dave! LOL.
😆
He won't stand for aggression, man.... ;)
or that Paul Rudd is good son!
Boy, you guys just saved me a lot of time and probably some money. We just moved into a year old house and was about to flush our electric water heater. TANKS!!!!!
Great advice! As far as water pressure, most modern homes have pressure regulators located on the main incoming line. Too much water pressure causes all types of issues!
Yeah that was a head scratcher to me too. I've never owned property in California but every house I've owned elsewhere (Colorado, Washington State) has always had a pressure regulator installed. I thought it was code.
30 to 50/60 lbs is plenty and ALL you should ever go with. YES...get a regulator on that line coming in NOW. Your faucets are going to be energy efficent and will throttle down how much pressure you get anyway..
Yes, the pressure I need to get water to all the valves in my house is far less than the pressure required to move water from the water treatment plant to the subdivision where I live. My 50 gallon gas fired water heater is 25 years old and still reliable, in part, because I have a water pressure regulator located where the water comes in from the street. If my water heater had a life span of 5 years, I would be sure I had a water pressure regulator ahead of it.
Note that most pressure regulaters installed these days are junk. After 5 yrs or so, it is probably bad and should be replaced with a quality regulator.
Besy use for a hot water heater drain is to put a water pressure gage on it so you can monitor your water pressure. My 10-15 year old pressure regulator went out and because I wasn't paying close enough attention and not monitoring pressure I ended up having to replace it along with my water softener and thermal expansion tank. Fortunately I was able to do most of the work myself.
I am a 78 y/o widow living remotely in a new-to-me cabin with spring water. I try to keep up with cleaning the filter, but sometimes, like with guests & increased water use, it can get pretty muddy. I was using my favorite partner in crime, RUclips, to get the best way to flush my electric hot water tank, when I found your video, with all the wonderful comments. Thanks a bunch! Saved me time & effort I can surely use on some other project!
We had a 44 year old natural gas water and never flushed never changed the magnesium rod . So I totally agree with what was said.
I have a 16yo electric in SE Alabama and a 30yo gas water heater in Western PA. Never flushed either. Was going to this week until I saw this video.
@@coolcanuck2570
It was a John wood
If you have 150 psi in your water system, you need a pressure regulator so you can reduce it to 45 psi.
Bruce Doxey My plumbing code requires me to have a prv set to 60 psi. (PressureReducingValve) equipped with a stop/check valve to prevent any back flow. I inspect the inlet screen every few years, and the only time it's been dirty is when the water main has been opened to do work/new hookups on it.
Grumpy Pb is full of sh!t.
Pressure reduction valve regulator on the inbound reduces his '150 psi' supply. A pressure relief trips itself everytime the tank heats (water expands as it heats). If it leaks when you manually trigger it, it will also leak when the tank heats up.
Sacrificial Anode protects the copper fittings, and the "glass" lining.
The crap lying in the bottom of the tank speeds up corrosion, but so does chlorine in the water supply.
Frankly, anyone whose tank only lasts 5 years needs a better plumber.
150 psi?? not a single water appliance in your house would last long like that! definitely get a pressure valve!
No utility would send 150 PSI water to a residential neighborhood. Average Is 75 to 80 PSI
Homes in our neighborhood have a pressure regulator on the main right after the meter. Takes pressure down to around 60 psi. When it goes out, pressure shoots up to 120 psi.
Most houses have water pressure regulators set at about 55 psi. Also if you also have a whole house water filter, you can eliminate most of the sediment that enters home from street repairs, plus a good carbon filter will also help to eliminate high chlorine levels in your water supply.
55psi? My 75 PSI, commercial copper lines and drilled Speakman Shower heads allow for 3 minute showers.🤔
You are my new hero! Pull no punches, tell it like it is, speak truth to power! The grumpy plumber rules!!
Thank you both !
I have an 80 ga. electric water heater and flushed it the first year and replaced the lower element as it was damaged (open circuit). It's about 25 years old and still works. Most amazing thing it's the present cost of those heaters like it was gold-plated. This one had good insulation all around.-
Man, I appreciate professionals like your Dad who share this information freely like this so much! Thank you!
Nice video, he reminds me of some of the guys I learned from. As a tradesmen (not a plumber by first trade but plumed my own house) I learn something from everyone. I know one thing I would be putting a pressure regulator on my line if 150psa was coming from the street. 60 is normal for municipal water. Now I know what to tell ‘em when they smell rotten eggs.
Our mains run at around 95 PSI as they go up a hill.
I live in Arizona where the water is the hardest in the country. I am a 75 year old woman, and I drain my HWH every six months, and my HWH is 10 years old. Easy peasy. Usually, I only have a few specks of granules come out the hose when I drain it. This time, however, I had only a few specks again until I unhooked the hose that was directly connected to the HWH. I had a huge blob of sand-like stuff from the HWH connection. Seemed congested. I also shut the HWH off during the summer months because the HWH is located in the garage and the water is still plenty hot from our scorching temperatures. Saves me some money, too. And I am not the least bit grumpy either.
I drained my waterheater once, about 7 years ago, because I had read somewhere, that it would prolong the life of the waterheater. I never did it again because I didn't want to deal with it. Now I'm glad I didn't do it. Won't feel guilty anymore. 😄
Glad you have your father to teach us something valuable. i am 53 and my dad died when I was 15...still a lot to learn in my life.
C L, I’m 18 years older then you and I still have a lot to learn. Thanks for your comments.
@@TheGrumpyPlumber never to Ole to learn!
Cl, sorry bout your loss!
Need more guys like your Dad. He is not grumpy he is smart with a lot of common sense. No BS with this guy. See you at the bar.
I don't know I took care of apartments which had 105 electric water heaters changed a lot of bottom elements and used a shop vac with 3/4 PEX water line to suck out all the lime built up to the point it covered the element causing them to burn out
I just got a new A.O. Smith 40-gallon gas water heater to replace another brand water heater that lasted from 2001 to 2024 until it failed. It had never been drained---and for about half of that 23 years the water was unsoftened---but A.O. Smith, a well regarded brand, is very firm about the wisdom of annual draining. I certainly can do that myself, so given the expense of water heater replacement compared to the relatively minimal hassle and expense of draining, I'm going to drain it annually. If I discover that the drain valve stinks, I'll replace it, too. As for the sacrificial anode rod, it is hard to imagine why a person would not replace that when it fails---or, more logically, before it fails---when its purpose is to keep the tank from flaking away. If the water heater is on the point of death and replacement, maybe just forget it, but I wouldn't expect much out of a water heater with no anode in it.
I’m an Plumber in Arizona and your Dad couldn’t be more wrong for anyone watching this who lives in AZ, flushing and replacing anode rod are crucial to extending the life of a water heater. The sediment will destroy your heater years early! And at $1400-$2000 replacement cost it is absolutely wise to get all the years you can out of your water heater! Oh and most water heaters come with aluminum anode rods not magnesium. And replacement cost on those are very minimal!
Most water heaters in Australia come with magnesium anodes, which is a little less hazardous for your health compared to water coming from a tank where aluminium anodes are in use.
EXACTLY!
You can still get magnesium rods in USA
Remember he’s a plumber. If he’s not coming to your house, he’s not getting paid.
I came hear to say the same thing. Dudes dad is not a plumber or a professional 😂😂😂
Depends on your water quality.
Also depends on whether you waited 10 years to flush it or if you have done it regularly.
exactly this- water quality is probably the biggest determining factor.......
That is the big variable that is so important but so ignored, water quality. The same water heater in several different water-sourced locations will result in very different results.
Thanks, this was very informative. I was also thinking of flushing my heater as well. I didn't flush it, not because I was lazy, but because I was concerned with the supply valve bonnet leakage and the drain valve leak through after closing. Thank for sharing the water heater mode of failure. This tells me it is wise to have a whole house pressure regulator.
Replace with a full flow ball valve...
Oh man, feeling so much better now; I've been feeling guilty after having a home built 3 years ago and not flushing the water heater once. 😅Great info, thanks for the video and thanks to dad!
Your dad is absolutely right! Everything he said matches my experience with my 24-year old gas water heater. Same with my brothers. I pulled the anode out when it was brand-new, too.
I didn't understand why you would call him grumpy. He has a low tolerance for stupid people. It comes with age and experience.
I would say "He doesn't suffer fools easily."
As Scotty says, you can not fix stupid....
Well said! I'm 67. My tolerance for BS is getting lower and lower. But, my ability to spot BS is getting stronger and stronger.
Get off the lawn ya damn kids!!
(BTW, I’m 58 and my tolerance for BS is exactly nil.)
(I also don’t yell at the neighborhood kids playing on my lawn... 😬 )
dumbass stupid no count idiots drive me batshit crazy....ignorance is NOT bliss
Had my water heater installed back in 2019 and realized I have never flushed it. Then came across this video. Thanks Jim and Jordan. This video made me miss my dad. He was never a plumber but I still miss him.
Oh my God - I was thinking how much I missed my dad, too! Back in 1997 he fitted my electric boiler and rigged everything up (he was a lecturer). He was sixty two at the time. He cared about me. He loved to detail the principles of how the things he was providing, for me, worked. I didn't pay him enough attention (on those occasions, specifically). Yes, I really miss him.
Here's to Dads!!
@@batintheattic7293 We never do it's human nature I think. I didn't visit my mum much after her stroke and she passed in November of sepsis 77 year's old. She didn't like talking on the phone after the stroke either, was frustrating I might of got 10 minutes with her then she'd want to hang up. Hey my 3.5 year old AO Smith 30 gallon is making a clunking noise like once an hr, I thought it was a ghost in the bathroom, it's a Moble home, should I be concerned?
Flush your water heater monthly this guy may be old but he is dead wrong on every point he made
@@slackbomb My last water heater was 17 year's old and I never flushed it, this new one is 3.5 year's old and I turned on the water to flush a little and the water was clear not brown so I only took out about a gallon and put the drywall cover back on
@@slackbomb monthly!? You need a whole house filter.
Thanks Dad! It’s so reassuring to hear somebody with your experience giving advice!
Thanks again!
Your friend,
Barry
Thank you for the info sir, just had a new water heater put in, the plumber put a big valve on the bottom and said I needed the heater flushed every year. Cost $248.00. Will not be paying for that service now. Thanks again.
This guy is like finding an honest mechanic. Honest information is gold these days. Keep up the great work.
There’s a difference between honesty and just flat out incorrect information and bad advice…
And that is exactly what this video is. Terrible advise.
you need to take advice from someone smarter than what they are working on
A truly honest plumber who firmly believes flushing is a waste of money, would refuse to do those particular jobs
I have a self cleaning water heater, it has a 9 year warranty. It's way beyond that warranty cutoff by 14 years, yes it's 23 years old and still running excellent!
care to name it? thanks!
I'm sure the poster with the self-cleaning water heater is using a pot on the cook stove for their hot water!😂
Your dad just rocks, my tank gas heater is now 50yrs old....I really think I need to replace it soon, but for at least 17 yrs have done nothing to keep it going when I bought the house.
Respect his experience and knowledge. I live in the southwest. You can't imagine how hard our water is. I have drained our electric water heater. The calcium had built up so much that the lower element was deep in the sediment. Had corroded the element and needed replacement. Since I had to replace the element, took advantage and vacuumed out about five inches of calcium. Worked well and extended the life of the heater. Ours lasted 15 years.
Same here in south Florida. Calcium and sediment have been in most heaters I've replaced
Same in Phoenix.
How did you manage to vacuum it out? I think I have the same problem. Tested the lower element and it’s gone. My heater is only three years old.
@@KnightsofChristendom Basically drain of course. Remove bottom element or what's left. Get a shop vac and you'll have mend a smaller hose that will fit through the bottom element opening. Had to rig a sturdy gauge steel wire to use as a pick. I had at least most of the element covered in sediment and pretty much shot. Replace element . Just tedious. But you'll reap fast results as you are not heating the buildup your tank fills correctly. Normally, I can tell the tank has buildup by the hot water may not last as it normally does. Extends your heater's life.
Thank you, good advice; About 10 years ago I attempted to flush the water heater as we are on a well and had a lot of sediment. I opened the drain and could not get a drop out. I tried running a rod into it but no joy. I eventually just gave up but have been expecting trouble since then but its still working fine.
🤦
Agreed. Doubtful many people use a tea kettle much these days but if/when you do it also builds up sediment inside. You can bang it around but you'll only knock off a tiny amount of the collected sediment and calcium, etc. Now, knowing that, how much good do you think draining the water from your water heater will do? If you want to do something proactive either set the heater in a four inch deep pan with a hose going into a drain or just replace the entire heater every ten years. Those are your two choices.
Does the depth of the pan matter?
Thank you because my WH is 7 years old and I just had a company come telling me I had to flush up but they will not take responsibility if it goes wring causing me to buy another hybrid WH which as a retiree cannot afford 5800! Thank you for the advice!
I put a 5 micron particulate filter on my cold water line and have never had to flush my 21 year old water heater, I just replace the filters every so often.
if you have a gas one, that works perfect, great idea. Mine is electric and the element corrodes inside over time and it breaks apart losing metal, so that would need to be flushed and replaced, but still a great idea to add a filter inline on the cold as it may really help on either type system. Our friends just added a WHOLE HOUSE filter and that would be the most expensive way but best for everything in the house that has water like the toilets, faucets, showers, drinking water, Fridge ice, etc., especially if your water is hard (more minerals in it). Thanks for that nugget!
Does a 5micron filter remove the minerals in the water? I have hard water from a well.
In Vocational school we learned real quick a plumber only has to know four things.
Shi* goes down, steam goes up, water goes all over the place, and payday is on Friday..
I’m sure Grumpy has heard that before lol.
VOTECH 1972 Electricity
Hots on the left, colds on the right and shit don’t run uphill
As a single old lady, I feel very vulnerable when trying to get appliances fixed (they usually say 'you need a whole new system' and charge me thousands). I wish I had someone like you because my gas water heater doesn't heat any more. Thanks for the good information.
Water heaters are not worth repairing. Most plumbers will replace. Them. Try to repair them and then something else will go bad. I've been there.
@@maxwellcrazycat9204 I would at least check the pilot, thermocouple, etc., before paying for a new heater. If it's not leaking, getting a flame back is usually not a big deal.
You have Google to help!!!! The problem you describe is usually just a bad or LOOSE thermocouple. They are very cheap and usually a 5 min. job to replace that anyone can do.
@@maxwellcrazycat9204 It is usually (at least with older heaters with quality parts) because once one thing finally starts dying it has outlived its lifespan and the other parts aren't far behind.
Preventative maintenance can have a heater lasting for 50+years.
Flushing for example actually removes sediments that can cook onto and harden on the surface of the tank causing hot spots that melt the glaze and eventually corrode the tank.
Electric elements that get too hot from sediment accumulation can not only burn out but, depending if it was prior to circuit safeties, can overheat the electric circuit and contacts.
Had one the elements burned out and we replaced them only to find out the wires had also heated enough to melt the solder on the board.
Grandpa was good at soldering and after testing for bad components just re-soldered the components to the board.
A $300 job looked like it was gonna become a $10k+ job but after a check and soldering went back to being $300 job with a home cooked meal from the customer for the extra after hours labor.
Thermocouples are old school most new ones don't have em anymore. *Gas Tech* (Thermocouples look like thick brass wire from gas valve to the burner) Spark is the way today -some manual /some auto spark with ventor motor and a electrical plug. Also newer ones have flash codes to tell what problem might be/codes are on appliance stickers. 20 years max then get new one don't be cheap and ride a water heater for 50 years sediment build up will cost you a bomb due to inefficiency. After 20 years i see them flooding basements. Everything plumber says is true in my world.
I've been telling people this for decades. My own gas WH is 25 yo. My parents' was 35.
But I do test the TPR valve every year or so. Sometimes it will drip and just snapping the lever a second or third time closes it. Once it wouldn't open so I just replaced it. That was a very easy DIY job.
The dad has so much practical experience and great tips. I love him.
He speaks the truth. I open the valve as instructed in the manual. The sears repair man told me never flush. The valve wound not shut off afterwards. I had to buy a new pressure valve. It was cheap and a easy fix. Took 10 minutes.
Mine did the sane thing a couple of days ago. I spent about three minutes opening and closing it and it stopped leaking. Easy peezy.
This is SO timely. I'm taking a plumbing class at my local career/tech school (just took the first class) and one of the questions I was going to ask the teacher was about draining my water heater. Have had it for a few years and thought I heard something that if you don't do it from the start not to bother and if you waited and did it, it could be a problem. In any case, after watching this...one less thing on my to-do list. YAY! You guys have a good vibe goin' on above and beyond the good info. Also, I'm a fan of the Mike Rowe WORKS Foundation. ❤☮🌎
Clicked on the link to check out the merch and it's not there. Just sayin'... ❤☮🌎
I like how you mentioned your dad has been doing it for 40 plus years so he could be a bit grumpy at times when it comes to advice hahaha. I love it. It's something about experience/wisdom that brings along a no nonsense mentality.
You're lucky that he wasn't an auto mechanic. Boy oh boy would he be grumpy!
I’ve been working in IT for 30 years and while I am very open minded and love learning new tricks, you will see a grumpy Timmy if someone starts questioning my methods.
Yeah he already has that "one wrong word out of you and I'll knock you out" look, hahahahahhaha@@maxwellcrazycat9204
Appreciate the expert perspective. I'm replacing my 40k BTU 40 Gal with a 36k BTU 40 Gal (Tight Budget or i'd keep with a 40k BTU) I'd prefer to not have a self cleaning as I understand that the sediment is flushed out the hot line. BTW the current water heater was installed in 1982 and it has the "Glass Lined, verbiage, that your dad described, on the tank. Any concerns or recommendations? -thx
Jim, you remind me of my Dad, I lost him 15 years ago. I really appreciate your advice and knowledge. He taught me to be a DIY girl and I try to get these things done myself. You are a big help…thank you, thank you thank you!
Yes, I used a plumber to clean out a clog and he charged me an insane amount. You CANNOT trust plumbers - they only want to gouge customers.
Sorry to hear about your dad.
Questions: if your pan is small (about an inch diameter bigger than diameter of heater) is it just as well to flush the water heater to install a new bigger drip pan? I'm told it's important to have more air intake opportunity than my pan offers, but I was told that by a plumber who charged me $500 for 20 minutes' work and sitting another hour in my driveway for no reason, so another perspective would be good to get :). Thanks for this video! Draining it didn't look hard and our water locally is highly sedimented so I was hoping for some tips on dissolving that, but getting this question answered will also help.
Also, something is wrong on the thumbnail - it says in the lineup "You don't need to flush it! Try this instead" but when I clicked into this video it no longer says "try this instead" and the video doesn't give the alternative promised. Could you clarify where that was? Did I miss it somewhere? I live in a very mineralized place where the water def needs help, so I need an alternative if flushing is not what we should do. Much obliged!
Excellent wow. Just saved me a new water heater.
Mine is gas 5yo and seems to be percolating louder now. So I decided rather than fluff but to buy new and replace it myself again.
But nope I’m good now.
Thanks.
Finally, some practical advice! I just drained my 9yr old water heater for the first time and it was pristine water coming out. Thanks, Jim.
Thank God for water softeners even
Replaced rod after 21 yrs. Totally clean inside using well water. No bad smell. Still running great after 25 yrs. Mess with it less for problem free heaters.
If u do decide to drain your water heater
Turn off the water supply , reduce the pressure by opening a hot faucet … then open the valve at the bottom of the water heater. Flush… then turn water back off before closing valve on hot water tank….Those are not very good valves and opening and closing them under pressure is asking for a leak !!!
So glad to see your video! I’ve been feeling guilty about not doing this ever since I moved in ten years ago, lol. Procrastination paid off!
Same here.
You’ve got a really smart dad there. Love the video and great for you on highlighting his knowledge.
What a good dad! Thanks so much for this invaluable help.
I love your honest, well spoken, dad. I am a retired mechanic, so I understand. Your dad will get this to. Guy buys a car I prepped, he comes back few days tells manager, car is out of alignment. They want me to drive it, so I check tire pressures then drive it (never let the customer drive you or go with you, they are damn dangerous). Steering wheel is straight, tracks straight, not pulling as a posed to normal drifting. I tell manager, if customer thinks it is out of alignment, then go ahead align the car, again. Your dad and I both know, nearly every time It is in customers head.
Old timers have the best information available, these new college kids have book smarts yet lack in experiential knowledge! Thanks for video. Your Dad rocks 😊🎉
Thanks for sharing your Dad and his knowledge. I miss my Dad a lot😣. He was always my go to for repairs.
I hit subscribe before I got to any of the "content" because I not only appreciated the father/son aspect in sharing and educating homeowners {much as my dad would try to do for me}, but hearing that he's from Michigan. Awesome!
We have an electric water heater but we are on a well that has some sediment in it, so the cost to benefit calculation might be different.
My first job out of high school was a furnace inspection technician / duct cleaner and we did hot water tank flushes, sometimes there was a lot of crud that came out, but most of the time there wasn’t much - but we were usually doing it yearly as a package deal.
The Mg rod is a sacrificial anode. It is there to corrode before the other metals. Flushing here in Fl does work and if you cycle the water into the water heater it will breakup most of the material inside of the water heater. I personally have flushed visible sand and sediment out of the water heaters in my rentals.
The mag rod is a sacrificial anode. It redirects the electrolysis from the steel tank to the mag rod.
In California, we have pressure regulators that reduce the pressure to 65 psi or so.
I get 20 years or more out of my water heaters. My current 50 gallon water heater was installed in 1997. It works great and on last flush, my inspection camera showed it was clean.
💯. You are doing it the right way
Thank you thank you... Well done Mark
Haha, My DAD was a licensed Master plumber in Michigan. He said EXACTTLY this! “Don’t bother.!” 😅😂 The gas water heater in my house, which gets a LOT of use, is over 17 years old, never been drained or flushed, it works great.
Why do they make a "clunk noice when only 4 year's old? Mine is a AO Smith 30 gallon gas heater in a mobile home
but if not used as much, replacing rod and flushing WILL extend tank life
Hi there. I would like to add my 35 to 40 years of plumbing experience and knowledge to Jim's comments. Not to take away any of his advise or years of knowledge and experience, but to add additional thought to the issue at hand.
The magnesium rod in the water heater is designed to prevent electrolysis between the elements in the water and the galvanized tank. The minerals will react with the magnesium rod before it will with the tank. The rod is sized for the region of the water heater installation and gives the tank a lifespan of 10 to 12 years. If a heater that was produced for a certain region with soft water with less minerals in the water and installed in a region with hard water, the tank will fail in less than 10 years. The temperature setting and the constant use of the heater also affects the lifespan of the heater. Commercial heaters run at higher temperatures and are used very frequently and have only a 2 year warranty on the tanks as apposed to 6 years on the residential tanks because it will leak sooner. Removing the magnesium rod will also cause the tank to fail prematurely.
The rotten egg smell is due to the hydrogen from the water in the tank, when the tank has not been used for a while. If the space is seasonal or vacant for a long period of time, the hydrogen will come out of solution and rise to the top of the tank. When the water in the tank, that was sitting in the tank for a long period of time, comes out of a faucet, the hydrogen gas, which is flammable, will come out of the faucet first, smelling like rotted eggs. Running the water will flush out the gas and the tank will be safe to use.
The rumbling in the tank is due to the calcium build up on the bottom of the tank over the years, causing the rumbling when the 38,000 BTUs plus, depending on the size of the tank, heats the surface of the tank and starts to super heat the bottom of the tank, causing the rumbling. The calcium also is an insulator and decreases the efficiency of the heater and reduces the amount of hot water coming from the tank. At that point, it is a good sign to replace the tank before it starts to leak.
Jim and I agree that leaving the water alone and let a qualified professional deal with the plumbing issues.
I have the 34 year old original water heater in my garage that came with the house new, never drained/flushed! Works great!
THE SAME HERE , 1985 AO SMITH !
@@LouieXI0I You guys know you're calling the gremlins to your water heater, right? Look guys, we missed two! Let's break 'em!!! woo hoo. Now you have water everywhere.
@@robertthomas5906 ABSOLUTELY, I'M RESEARCHING WHAT BRAND TO BUY, TO DO AN R&R NEXT WEEK.
Water heaters life span nowadays 5-7 years. Unless you replace the anode rod, then you’ll get your money’s worth.
@@LouieXI0I A.O.Smith.
I completely agree with Grumpy. My present water heater is approximately 20 years old and other than the percolating sounds, it is still working flawlessly and I've never done any maintenance to it. I live in rural Missouri and have very hard water. My house is around 50 years old and the original water heater lasted over 20 years with no maintenance. I'm convinced that the best thing is just to leave them alone and replace them when they finally fail.
Chris, you are so right!! Thanks for verifying my view.
15yrs and going strong.. no maintenance on mine since install
You and me! Years back we moved a few blocks from our first house to our new home and within a week, we purchased a water softener. The difference between the aquifers between those two towns was an eye-opener. Couldn't believe the scale that formed seemingly overnight. I think it might have saved our water heater a lot of trouble too.
Dude if you think percolating sounds are ok wait till you hear the boom after the relief valve fails to operate properly. This advice here is dangerous and unsound.
What happened in between the "over 20" year old original heater and the "approximately 20" year old current water heater in your 50 year old house? Did you go without hot water for 8-10 years?
Thanks for the great advice . Was about to flush because my hot water isn’t lasting very long with electric heater. Gonna order a new element 👊
Get a sand hog element. It’s a heavy duty element.
I live in California. My gas water heater is still going strong after 18 years. I've never flushed it or replaced the anode. It's gas. My plumber told me the secret is to keep it on low and to keep the closet it's in dust free. He said that dust is their number one enemy.
So glad I watched! I’m not going to flush the water heater now. It’s been worrying the heck out of me. Thank you😊
Why would a manufacturer install "an expensive" rod (sacrificial anode) that does nothing but make the water smell bad? It is not to flake off and plug holes. It is to corrode (sacrifice itself) before the other metallic surfaces corrode.
To flush a tank, the sediment must be stirred up into a solution and pumped out using a pump pick-up inserted through the hole where the anode was. The idea is to drain the tank, insert the pump pick up near the bottom, then activate the pump while introducing new water at a rate such that the water lever stays constant until all the sediment is washed out.
Thank you.
Charlie that is the difference in a plumber answering that question rather than a gas technician...
I switched the inlet valve and the flush valve to ball valves (instead of the valve that you have to make several turns to shut off). This allows short blasts of inlet water and no restriction on the flush valve. And I can see large chunks of white sediments coming out. Imagine the buildups if I don’t do this every year.
@@CycOp never flushed almost 25 years no issues whatsoever even my furnace is over 25
@@divinee.155 I guess you are lucky to live in a place where hard water is not an issue. When I first cleaned the water heater after moved in (assuming the previous owner hadn't done it for several years), I had to flush for several hours to get rid of the sediments.
Thank you, I started thinking maybe the water was not safe to drink, whew...we have an electric water heater not maintained in over 10 years, thank you for your expertise!!
I joined your channel on one piece of advice alone, ..."and if you don't like you can go to hell!" I've never laughed out loud to anything on RUclips except by that!
I love your dad he’s saving me some money and time ...thanks again
Your dad is the coolest!!! Thanks so much for all the useful information. I really enjoyed learning about how water pressure affects the lifespan of the water heater.
Interesting conversation and I listen to all comments, however, I disagree, Where we are the water is hard and overtime the heat causes the lime to exit the water from soluble to calcium that build up on the heated surfaces and if your heater is a condensing type the smaller channels do eventually plug the exchanger - using a cleaning agent does dissolve this crap and it will need flushing out otherwise it will not be just a Sissle it may be a bang you hear next.
Well that was a cool video. Thanks for sharing your expertise and humor. Always wondered about that draining that I never needed and never did. Nice. Keep tue videos coming. 😊 Thanks!
I decided to drain my hot water tank and messed up the drain. My brother-in-law came over and changed the drain. He told me to leave it alone. I tell people to leave the tank alone. Good advice.
My water heater in VA is at least 11 years old. Only flushed once. The previous water heater started to leak after more than 25 years.
I had a gas water heater last me from 1982 to 2012. I flushed it regularly. I live in California. I strongly believe in flushing. It also depends on where you live. Water conditions are different depending on area.
Seconded. I'm on a well with about 50psi, and my gas water heater is now 27 years old and working perfectly. It gets flushed every year or so, from the lower drain valve into a garden hose. The flushed water runs brown for a minute or two, then cloudy, and then clear. It doesn't cost me anything.
Our water heater lasted almost 25 years with zero maintenance. As did just about everyone else's in our neighborhood. Never heard of water heaters needing to be replaced in 5 years unless you buy the cheapest pile of crap available.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb 35 yrs for my parents. Never did anything to it.
Another California homeowner who has never flushed our water heater, going on 28 years. Zero maintenance.
I agree 💯
I also do it to my camper one every I use it and pull the plug and rod every time and put it up dry
Glad I watched this! I was about to go buy a new anode rod because of the stinky hot water in my house. Instead, I think I'll just have it taken out and see if that helps.
Thank you TGP & Son for posting this. I was given the same advice about flushing as you've given here (from my local GP). One question: I live in the Houston, Tx area and water quality is "poor". Lots of sediment which (I've been told) reduces the lifespan of water heaters. So why not try to take out the sediment before it gets to the tank? Maybe install two filters in parallel on the water line to the tank with one operating at any given time. Then when it starts to plug (maybe have a pressure monitor down stream to signal this) switch over to the other filter and clean the plugged filter. Its a bit more work than doing nothing but it would increase the lifespan of the heater and save the homeowner from having to flush the system (if he must). BTW...you have another subscriber! Again, thanks for posting!
The sediment forms when you heat the water. That’s why a water softener, which I highly recommend, doesn’t stop the formation of sediment in the water heater. I know Houston has horrible water but there is not a lot you can do about it. Thanks for subscribing.