Thank you Peter! We try to keep this same format to all of our videos. The goal is to provide the direct instructions but make sure the "why" is covered as well.
The back flush with a washing machine advice may have just saved me over $650. My hot water was slow and had low pressure and about a year ago I drained my 16 year old electric HWH. Well that drain was iffy and the low pressure issues came back. The drain valve was clogged and nothing could flow. By putting a washing machine line on a hose, opening a valve in the house and backflushing the tank I was able to get it flowing and flushed. Crud came out and my hot water pressure is like new! Maybe I can get another 5 years out of my HWH now. Yay!! Remember if you do it to open a valve in the home to allow the back flowing water a place to go and to then drain your tank. It took doing it three times on my old HWH.
Thank you! As others have said, you provide more helpful advice than other guides. And your explanations are very clear and helpful. The cross-sections views are really great.
Yes, this is the correct method. I change my electric heaters to a ball valve, full port. I have had to run wire or a 3/8 " water line inside to agitate the sediment. Also for the thrifty, turn off the water heater and have a bath before the flush.
You’re smart. Can you come to our house and do this to our Rheem HWHr? We tried to do this guy’s flush today because our current 1 yr. old Rheem replaced an ONLY 4 YR. OLD Rheem still under Warranty that totally crapped out (And WHAT a song and dance getting this accomplished through Rheem🎵 ☹️) Gawd - What a pain-in-the-….. plumbing is.
I've seen some videos unprofessionally rushed trying to show what you just did....This was more understanding and helpful. Thank you, everything worked out well.👍
First video I’ve seen showing to use a washer hose to clear the line!!! Genius!! I have a ton of problems with high calcium in appliances and this trick may help.
Thanks for watching. We're glad that you found it helpful. There is another option that can help in the future. Many people have found it helpful to install a full port 3/4" ball valve. This is shown in this video here: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
I watched several videos to get multiple viewpoints. This video was an excellent place to sum up what I'd learned. It was consistent with others while short and to the point.
Our hot water heater [HWH] had not been flushed for more years than I want to admit. Following the directions in this video I got next to no where. Blowing cold water in from the washing machine cold water point 6 times into the HWH didn’t do the trick. So I shut off the HWH drain valve and let my drain hose [laid outside the house] drain until empty. Then I stood on a ladder and using a funnel that fit inside the hose shut off valve on the end of it - I filled the hose with white vinegar. When the hose was full, I shut off the valve on the end of the hose and reconnected it to the cold water hose for the washing machine. I then turned on the cold water to pressurize that hose, opened the valve at the end of the drain hose and then the drain valve on the HWH. In this sashion I blew about a pint of vinegar into the HWH. I did this twice and now the sediment has been disolved enough that water is flowing strongly out of the drain hose.
Thanks for sharing your experience! We try to give enough information to point people in the right direction but there are always cases that are more difficult than others. It's not surprising that after so many years without any flush that it took vinegar to help dissolve the sediment. Cheers.
Thanks for showing us how to flush our water heaters. I plan to do this, since I have some time -- because of being unemployed during Corona Virus. Good way to save money and protect the unit.
You're welcome Poe! We're glad that you found the video helpful! If you're curious we have many more videos on our channel. Here's one on Multimeters and Electricity Basics ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
If you WH is old like mine, after the flush I suggest that you refill the tank slowly. My first time I did not - blasted the water back in with the valve wide open and ended up with a lot of sediment suspended in the tank which = tan colored water. I redid the flush and then Very Slowly filled the tank, progressively opening the valve more as the tank filled but never opening all the way. Made a huge difference. Nice clear water!!
I’m glad you caught that because I was about to correct you myself. That would be problematic. I generally fill up the tank and listen to know that it’s filled. Than I plugged the hot water heater on and let it heat up some for about 15 to 20 minutes than I turn on the faucets. Turning on the faucets in this fashion not only gets the air out but the sediment in the pipes which is why you usually will see brown water for about 50 seconds or so. If you turn on the water before filling the tank you could damage the hot water heater.
If it stops draining and still not empty , just lift the hose up to your height and shake a few times then blow like inflating a balloon if necessary ; OR shut off boiler drain and open water supply, that will move that big chunk of sediment out of the way stirring the bottom of the tank. I usually just connect the hose and open boiler drain, the chunks might break loose with the pressure, and you can hear them rattling in the bottom then combine on and off of water supply and boiler drain till you get good free flow and no more sediment, . Believe me , I'm a plumber and it's been times I had to remove lower heating element to be able to push sediment out, never been flushed in ten, 15 or 20 years.
Thanks for watching. As long as the water isn't extremely hot then it should be fine to drain into the sump pump basin. If the water is over 60°C then it might damage sump pump components.
Very helpful video- thanks! I get parts and supplies from Amre all the time- they are awesome! Knowledgeable staff and fast delivery and I love to support a local company.
As a plumber of over 20 years, the best way to get rid of sediment is to cut both copper lines drop that concrete filled water heater and install a new one. I have seen too much sediment run through the house clogging up all the fixtures.
@@AmreSupply I tell my customers if you start from the time the water heater is new you should be okay but if you go back in after a water has been sitting for even only 2 years you run the chance of distributing that lime and scale all over the house
I’ve seen 30-50 year old tank water heaters. The common ground of all was filtered water. They all had 5 micron filtration prior to water entering the tank. The amount of times the tank fires up is another factor. Pressure is a huge factor. Last common factor is bonding and ground.
Apparently MY WATER is two parts dirt to One part 💧 water. 😤 Or else Rheem electric HWH’rs are the biggest piles of crap on the residential market today.
So I would recommend replacing any plastic valves with a brass valve. I have always attached the hose and open the drain. Valve first before turning off supply to heater. After you drain the heater adding a full port hose bib will speed up draining and cleaning in the future
Thanks for watching. You are right that brass valves are the way to go. In this video we show how to replace the drain valve and also outline the 3/4" full port ball valve as an option.
*NOTE* At 2:47 the hot water handle is opened. This is an error and the cold water handle should have been opened instead. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing). This wasn't noticed until after filming was complete.
@@UncleFjester Thanks for watching. Removing the video would mean it would lose all interactions, comments, and views and that is something you don't get back. For a reshoot, the error would have to more significant than the difference between the hot and cold handles. This is something that someone can figure out and is why we put this note.
Yep I saw that was going to comment as if you are back flushing and of course have the water to the tank off then use the hot water to supply water back words well oops 😬 not going to work. It would be a good idea to make sure a faucet is open on the hot side to allow the water into the tank.
I and my brother that lives next door to me built our homes at the same time. We put in the same identical hot water heaters, ( Electric & the same Brand ) I had to replace mine after 15 years, my brothers hot water tank is still going strong seven years later. The only difference in our hot water tanks is I flushed mine every year, my brother has never flushed his. The plumber that helped me change it asked me on the phone how much have I flushed it out through the years, I asked him why was that a factor, he explained that water heaters that have been changed by him the majority were changed had been flushed out on a regular basis. I stopped flushing mine. Both my brother and I are on the same well water also, sharing a deep 600 ft deep well.
Thanks for this very clear instruction. Question... We have an American ProLine 40 gallon tank. It's now about 7 years old. The makes a "banging" noise whenever we run hot water for more than a minute or so. There are no problems, just the noise. The banging never occurred in our old water heater (also a 40 gallon) and only started about 3-4 years into use on the current water heater. We don't have an expansion tank and never have. We suspect that an expansion tank may solve the noise problem, but will probably not bother unless the banging is going to make the water heater fail sooner than without adding one. By the way we do have a water softener and the water entering the tank is softened. Thoughts? Should we be concerned and do something about the water heater banging noise?
Thanks for watching. If the banging happens when you stop the water flow, then that would be water hammer. In your case it seems like the noise happens after water runs for a minute, so it is likely air bubbles rising to the surface and pushing sediment around the inside of the tank. Doing a flush can help reduce the sediment and might reduce the noise.
Great instructional video... TIP.. draining tank wirh this approach only works if drain hose is below the level of tank (gravity). I saw people doing it by putting hose into a sink and they wondered why is not working 😕
Thanks for watching. Draining into a sink would only work if the entire hose is full of water as this would create a syphon. Pockets of air inside of the hose might also disrupt the syphon.
Thanks for this. Question: I ended up doing the 20-second flush at least 8 times. Brown water every flush. Finally a friend gave me advice to keep valve open while cold water intake valve is open. At this point the outflow got a little more clear so I called it a night. Also I feel you kind of rushed the part about air flush after the water flush, before turning back on the heater.
Thanks for watching. Thank you for the feedback. Yes for filling the tank you'll have to run water out of a faucet until the water runs clear. This might might take some time.
Thank you. I had alot of mineral deposits. So toward the end I would open the water valve for a few seconds, bust up the minerals while the spigot remained open. Seemed to work pretty good.
@@AmreSupply pushing water back into the tank as you showed was the biggest help to get it going. Had to do it about 3 seperate times. ❤️ Now the tank seems to reheat faster and hasnt overheated like before.
@@morriskl3 >> Happy it all worked out for you. Our ‘draining’ did not go well. Perhaps it was this pressure release valve on the top of our electric HWHr…. Hubby and I are consulting a divorce atty tomorrow…😮 (😉)
I don't understand why in the video the back flush is done by opening a HOT water faucet. I would assume that one should open a COLD water faucet, since there shouldn't be any pressure or water in the hot water pipe coming to the faucet - the water supply to the tank is cut off and the tank feeds the hot water pipe feeding the faucet. Am I missing something?
Thank you for watching! You have a good eye and that is one error that made it into the final video. When we filmed that shot we naturally showed did it in a way so the arm wouldn't block the shot. In this case what looked visually good while filming, created a continuity error that went unnoticed until after filming is complete. Unfortunately we can't change that shot now without deleting the video.
@@junkim5331 If you need to do a back flush, yes. A back flush with hot water won't work because you won't have any hot water to use, your tank will be empty.
If I'm getting dirty hot water, is it too late? 😢😢😢 Edit/PS. I'm a Grandma lady on a fixed income and have no one to help me. Many of my appliances are broken and there are plumbing problems too. I do what I can to fix it myself and I really appreciate videos like yours! Thank you very much! I look forward to your reply!😊
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help people who are willing to learn. You can do a test to determine if the problem is the water heater or corrosion in the hot water pipes. If you drain a little bit of water out of the bottom and see if that compares to what is coming out of your taps. If it is similar then it is likely sediment from the tank. In this case a tank flush might help. If you flush your tank and drain the sediment and the water is still dirty, then it is likely that tank is nearing the end of it's lifespan. Alternatively if only the water coming out of the hot water faucet is dirty, then it's possible that the pipes between your water heater and your faucet are corroded.
what about using the air release valve in the side of the tank. Don’t you need to open that too? I had seen orher videos do that. Can you explain the process why do or nor do that? Thanks
Good video and explanation but I have a suggestion. Replace the tank drain gate valve with a ball valve. You should precious few if any issues with the drain valve clogging, essentially eliminating the need for the back-flushing operation. Also, any dirt, grit, sediment, etc. between the gate valve internal seat and washer when attempting shutoff will otherwise ruin the valve seat and almost guarantee leakage from then on. Just my two sense (cents, lol) from having rental properties.
Thanks for watching! That is a great tip as full port ball valves are rock solid. This is something that we mention in the drain valve replacement video: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
Thanks for watching. Some people do yearly flushes and others do not flush for years. It depends on how hard of water there is in your area. You can do a flush and check and see how much sediment comes out. Also without a full port drain valve, less sediment is removed as the pre-installed valves have a smaller diameter. With a lot of flushing there is a chance that the drain valve might not close properly so that is another factor to consider. The difference is shown here: ruclips.net/user/shortsC3-eTMsbO40
We have an electric Rheem with a pressure release valve on top. We followed your instructions and left that pressure valve alone - opening a HW faucet in the house instead. No water would drain. So we decided to back flush, but needed one ☝🏼more female end to run to HWHr. We couldn’t get the female end of the hose loose from the male outdoor spigot. Rusted into eternity. 🤨 NOW, what to do? After a nasty fight, including the temptation to take a wrench to each other, we opened up the cold water valve and flushed about 25 gallons of nice, Softened Hot Water into the yard. We still have to replace the hose spigot with the female end we needed that is permanently rusted to a garden hose (Did I mention hubby tends to TIGHTEN those nuts 🔩 and bolts until almost stripped?) BUT, the source water pipe to the garden spigot won’t turn off, even though the valves below the spigot are turned off…😞🤦🏻♀️ Yeah. Do-it-yourself home maintenance is freaking worth it. 🙇🏻♀️
Thanks for sharing your experience. With time, parts become worn out, rusted and it most certainly adds more variables into any maintenance or repair. It is hard for us to cover all the potential scenarios that can emerge but we did do a video on showing how to remove a broken plastic drain valve: ruclips.net/video/4m1KxuHewHY/видео.html Still we might do a video in the future talking about what to do with stripped threads and other common mishaps.
I always have to lift the little valve at the top of the heater to get the water draining but when I do it works great. Just dont see it much in these videos. I've always needed to do it though even when it was brand new.
Sometimes the relief valve may not close properly after, I've had several that slow dripped after opening as you suggested, all on older units requiring replacing. I don't use them that way any more.
A couple of observations when you backflush, shouldn't you use cold water? The hot water will be off at the haterheater. Also shouldn't you use a different faucet than you are using to vent the hot side?
Thank you for watching. You have a good eye. This has been pointed out in previous comments but unfortunately its not something that we can update. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times / locations, and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing).
Question and sorry if this is a dumb question. My water valve is corroded to the point that I can’t turn it off. Could I still do the flush with the cold water running and still follow the rest of your instructions. Also let’s say I can’t shut off the main line water to the house either.
Thanks for watching, and that is a perfectly valid question. If there's no way for you to shut off the incoming water supply then its likely that your tank would drain slower than the refill rate from your cold water supply line. Drain valves do not have large openings and often there is debris that will slow down the draining. So if your drain valve drains at 0.5 - 1 gallons per minute and your cold water supply line fills at 1.5+ gallons per minute then you wouldn't be able to drain the tank completely. Still you'd be cycling some of the water and some of the debris might flush out during that process. So you could try draining some water and monitor what comes out of the hose to see if any sediment is being removed.
Thanks for watching. Any hose with a male and female connections will be needed to connect for a back flush. Washing machine hoses have those connections.
Thanks for watching. Yes if you have a indirect water heater with a drain valve then it can be drained in the same way. A pump can be used but keep in mind that that very hot water might be damaging to some transfer pumps.
Before filling water heater is good time to replace anode rod if haven't done so in 5+ years. Also, I would choose opening bathtub valve for air, especially if it has separate hot/cold valves; no need to mess with sink faucet aerators.
Thanks for watching, those are some great tips! We do show how to check the anode in our water heater maintenance guide: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
If you put the Pilot light in the “pilot” position when starting the process, why did you have to relight the pilot at the end? Or was that just a filming error?
Thanks for watching. In the video the gas was shut off and the temperature was set to the "pilot setting" which means it is the lowest setting. At this point the pilot flame and burner are complete disconnected from the gas while the tank is being drained.
Thank you for the wonderful video,. I am looking into replacing my supply lines with flexible lines... Should I worry about galvanic corrosion? Seems like the materials would clash. Would liquid teflon product suffice or ? Thank you for the help
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. What you'll want to use is a dielectric nipple which will help prevent galvanic corrosion. Some regions the plumbing code will actually require a dielectric nipple to be used so it's best to check the codes for your region.
Question here please. My tank has 8 year warranty, I'm on the 9th. Ive never drained it until now. I agitated the bottom many times and finally got the tank to run clear. Problem is inside hot water is still off colour. I live in Vancouver, BC for location. Evety plumber says I need a new tank. Is there more I can do?
Thanks for watching. There might have been some very fine sediment that is now floating in the tank. After a shower or two that will likely disperse. If the tank is still heating effectively you might not need a new one. Has the water started to run clear now?
First of all thank you for a very detailed and easy to follow video. I have a Question- Can we add a cleaning agent (like Clorox etc.) thru the reverse flow and then flush it out to clean up the sediments?
Many water heaters come with a cheap plastic drain valve that's not nearly as good and well designed as the brass one you show in this video (even on water heaters approaching $1,000). What are the chances that my plastic drain valve will seal off after I do the flush? I can fully see mine not sealing off no matter how hard I tighten it.
Thanks for watching. It is partially how the valve is designed. Any valve (plastic or brass) runs the risk of debris preventing the rubber in the stopper from closing properly. A full port ball valve does not have this problem. This video explains this in more detail: ruclips.net/user/shortsC3-eTMsbO40
Is it okay to use the water heater drain as an outdoor spigot line for rinsing purpose? The water heater at my property has a line connected to the drain that leads through the wall and outside spigot. Between the line looks be a converter because if I touch the line before it, the pipe is warm. But when you turn on the spigot outside it comes out cold. My tenants have been using it to rinse off beach sand off their dogs or items as we live in a beach community. Not a full flush out, its just a few minutes usage of water to wash of sand. Do you know if this is okay or is it likely to cause damage on the water heater?
Thanks for watching. If the water heater was supplying water to that outdoor spigot then it would also be warm. It is possible that it looks like it is connected but there is another line somewhere connected to the outdoor spigot. Regardless if you are draining water from the bottom of the water heater, you might get some sediment but you'd still be able to safely rinse off sand etc.
You can also try squeezing the hose repeatedly near the valve, to break the sediment loose, if you don’t have an extra washing machine hose to back flush
@@AmreSupply I definitely like your method better; especially, if doing yearly maintenance, as I believe it releases more of the sediment. I use the pumping method, when draining the tank for removal, or have a long run with the discharge hose and no where near a water supply. I just recently found this channel. I have to say that I’m very impressed with the effort and quality of the video, as well as, the accuracy of the content, so I subscribed immediately. I look forward to watching more videos and keep up the good work.
@@johnharrison5656 Thank you for subscribing! It's good to have the quality recognized. There is a lot of content out there and one of our main goals was to make it easy to understand and accessible. This meant putting more time into research and writing scripts as well as making graphics. We just finished a series on oven and stove repairs which we're happy with ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt and are currently working on refrigerator repairs which will come out in 2022. Cheers!
I just replaced a 4 year old 40 gallon gas Rheem with an A.O. Smith. If memory serves, the first year I tried to flush it out it drained very very slow. I don't think the tank ever drained all the way. So after leaving the drain valve opened for most of the day hardly any water came out. When I disconnected the unit...sure enough, it was full of water and heavy as ever. I left the drain valve opened and smashed it off with a hammer and I could see calcium deposits completely covering the hole. I took a screw driver and jammed it in and then the water came pouring out fast with lots of pressure shooting out about 3 feet at first. I noticed even on the new unit that when I drained it for a minute it wasn't even that fast. Not even close. Are these units outfitted with a drain valve that is purposely small so it will catch calcium build up over time so you have to replace the unit sooner? Water is so hard here in Phoenix I am going to drain quarterly and monitor the pressure output as time goes by.
Thanks for watching. The factory installed valves are more prone to clogging as the opening is not very large. To prevent this you can easily make a new drain valve using a full port brass ball valve. This is shown here: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
@@AmreSupply my drain valve is plastic with a hose connection and then he screwdriver release on it. I'm hoping since it's a brand new water heater that it will be easy to remove. Thanks again for your help
@@mykylc You're welcome, we're just happy to help in what small way we can. Thanks for the update, we're glad that the repair went smoothly, the ball valve is definitely a good upgrade to have!
Silly questions but should the hose be a cheap one? will it ruin the hose cause of the hot water? can it be drained into street? I was told to do it once a year is that enough?
Hi Sarah, thank you for watching. Hot water can degrade garden hoses but it won't instantly destroy it but it will cause it to wear out faster though. There are "hot water" hoses but they are more expensive. You can however, turn off the water heater (but leave the cold supply open) and take a shower or do a load of laundry first. This will help use up the hot water in the tank. Afterwards the water in the tank will be warm but not as hot as before. This will make it easier on any hoses that you use. As for the frequency of a tank flush it really depends on the hardness of your water and how much sediment accumulates. For many people once a year can work. During that time it's worth checking the anode rod to see if it needs replacement: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
Hi Chris, thank you for watching. That is a good observation, and yes you can drain the water heater into the sump pit as the sump pump will just run once the level gets high enough.
@@caprisun2k1 If the water isn't too hot then it shouldn't be an issue. You can always turn off the water heater, and take a hot shower to help it cool down before draining it.
I just did rained HWT this past weekend. One question, now one of my interior sinks will not run water. No hot, just a small stream of cold. Every other faucet words fine. I left the faucet on for 8hrs and nothing changed. Any advice?
Thanks for watching. It could be helpful to clear or replace the aerator as well you could, turn off the shutoff valve, disconnect the faucet supply lines and see if the how water flows once you open the shutoff valves. If the hot water flows when the faucet supply line is disconnected. then the blockage is in the faucet.
I did this today. Took me 5 hrs! Had to keep jabbing a coat hanger in there to get all debris out. Got about 2 gallons of junk. What do I use to remove the drain valve? My wrench wouldn’t do it.
Hi Jennifer, thank you for watching! Draining can be quite slow with a buildup of debris. In a lot of cases the drain valve might be pretty stuck. To help out you can make an extension for the wrench. If you put a piece of copper pipe overtop of the wrench and extend the handle by 2 feet, then you'll have more leverage. You'll notice that it might take a bit to "break it loose" as the drain valve threads are likely starting to get fused. Once you get it turning it might still take some effort to turn each time but will get easier after a few rotations.
Design Studio it’s 10 yrs old, but I’m the only one here, so not a lot of use. My male neighbor and I tried for hrs to remove the anode and it was a no go. Pipe wrench, bar, you name it.
Design Studio I saw something about draining them every couple of years and I hadn’t EVER done it, so I tried and it was blocked with calcium deposits and mineral sludge. My lower element was UNDER all that so it wasn’t efficient. If you clean it and replace the anode, they’ll last a lot longer.
Thanks for watching. It really does depend on how hard your water is. It's good to check the anode after a year to get a sense of how fast things are progressing. Some manufactures recommend yearly but if you have really hard water it might need to be done more often. This is covered in the maintenance guide: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
Can a broken outside spigot cause low water pressure in a house, My spigot does have a crack in it. I have no leaks in my home, water meter is remaining normal. But I have lost water pressure in my whole mobile home both hot and cold water. I replaced all faucets about a year ago and hot water tank as well.
During the process of refilling the tank is there some sort of mechanism that keeps the unit from overflowing? My cold water valve on the water heater is in the on position, so i imagine when the unit refills it'll know at some point when to cease incoming water into the tank
Thanks for watching. When refilling the tank, have the hot water faucet open in the highest point of your home. The tank will fill until water will run through the hot supply pipes to the faucet. You'll notice bursts of air and water, and when the air stops "burping" then you'll know the tank is full and the hot water line is completely full of water. At that point shut off the hot water faucet, and the system will be good to go.
I'm curious how you're able to backflush from another sink by opening the hot valve🤔. Since the cold inlet valve on the water heater is closed there is no pressure on the hot side. I think you clearly meant to open the cold side to backflush. Minor oversight, awesome video!
Thank you for watching. You have a good eye! This has been pointed out in previous comments but unfortunately its not something that we can update. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing).
You can add annotations to your video using RUclips editor. Just find where you mention using hit water and add a big message on the screen saying "*COLD WATER* SORRY" or something. Good luck 👍
@@joepolidoro429 RUclips used to have Annotations as a feature but disabled it when they unified the experience with mobile devices. There are links (cards) that can pop up in the top right corner but these are not the same as annotations and aren't visible in the same way.
how did youtube realize i needed to know this? I was thinking about doing something like this since my water softener wasn't working for 1 year and I was concerned about solids in my water heater tank. Do analytics tap into our brains now?
Thanks for watching. Sometimes we just notice things more and it feels like a coincidence, and other times the algorithm cues into other searches or things that were viewed. Its hard to narrow down and know for sure.
If I have already cut off the water to the hot water heater, and I am back-flushing, wouldn't I want to turn on the cold water, not the hot, so I'd get more pressure for the backflush?
Thank you for watching. You have a good eye. This has been pointed out in previous comments but unfortunately its not something that we can update. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing).
Thanks for watching. It depends on the valve. The standard drain valve is a threaded valve and is at an angle, so a piece of wire could bend around that corner. You can see this here: ruclips.net/user/shortsC3-eTMsbO40 If you do this just make sure you have some sort of container underneigh.
Thanks for watching. When flushing the tank, it can be most helpful to drain the tank fully and then turn on the cold water supply to spay water onto the sediment at the bottom of the tank. A back flush can be done when the water isn't draining, as a back flush will help clear any sediment that blocked the drain valve. For a back flush you'll need the drain valve open.
Thanks for watching. It depends on the amount of sediment but some people do a flush as part of their yearly maintenance. Other people do not flush as often and only do it periodically.
Thanks for watching. If you opened up a hot water faucet in the line then it should have ample airflow for draining. Opening the relief valve is a closer solution and will do the same thing.
At time of installation have the plumber replace that highly restrictive hose bib. A 3/4 nipple, full port IP valve and hose adapter will turn a future lengthy flush job into a fast effective walk in the park.
Thanks for watching! Yes the full port ball valve works great. For anyone wondering these are the parts needed: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
Thank you for watching. The point of opening the facuet is to let the move freely in or out. You'll need to keep the hot water faucet open when draining the tank, and while filling the tank back up.
Thanks for watching. You will hear many different recommendations as this really varies on how hard the water is and your location. If you think you have hard water, you might have to flush it yearly up to even every 6 months. When you flush you can check to see the amount of sediment that is removed.
What do you suggest if even the back flush fails to clear the clog? I've tried opening the drain valve with the water still going and that's only getting bits and pieces out
Thanks for watching. People have used a variety of creative solutions to clear a blocked drain. You could use a wire to help push the sediment clear of the drain. Just make sure that you do not damage the rubber stopper or the drain valve might leak afterwards. Other people have used compressed air to "burp" the system. Others have rigged up a shop vac to try to use suction to clear the blockage. These might take more creativity to set up.
My GE water heater is now 10 years old. The water heater was already in the house when i bought it and was never serviced by the previous owner. The hot water has far too little pressure at all the taps. But the cold water is under full pressure. I thought flushing the tank might help, but the pressure is still low. What else could be the problem?
Thanks for watching. Some hot water systems are fitted with filters, if there is a filter then a build up of sediment can restrict the flow for the hot water. It can also be an issue with the pipes themselves. Sometimes corrosion can build up, but this will be effected by age of the home, water quality / composition, and the type of the pipes. This is harder to diagnose so it can be helpful to call a plumber in this case.
This video is the only one that tells you that you might need to back flush. I greatly appreciate that and Great work in the video tutorial!
Thank you Josh, we're glad that you found these details helpful! We try to make all our videos detailed and thorough!
@@AmreSupply ...and for that reason is why I subscribed!
The best flushing video I have seen on RUclips. Exact and to the point.
Thank you Peter! We try to keep this same format to all of our videos. The goal is to provide the direct instructions but make sure the "why" is covered as well.
The best tutorial on flushing I've seen on RUclips
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
The back flush with a washing machine advice may have just saved me over $650. My hot water was slow and had low pressure and about a year ago I drained my 16 year old electric HWH. Well that drain was iffy and the low pressure issues came back. The drain valve was clogged and nothing could flow. By putting a washing machine line on a hose, opening a valve in the house and backflushing the tank I was able to get it flowing and flushed. Crud came out and my hot water pressure is like new! Maybe I can get another 5 years out of my HWH now. Yay!! Remember if you do it to open a valve in the home to allow the back flowing water a place to go and to then drain your tank. It took doing it three times on my old HWH.
Thank you for sharing your experience. We're glad that the backflushed worked!! Best of luck that you get a few more years out of your water heater!
Thank you! As others have said, you provide more helpful advice than other guides. And your explanations are very clear and helpful. The cross-sections views are really great.
You're welcome Boris, we try to make sure every video is straight forward and informative!
First step: install a drain in your basement floor
This video saved me from a costly flood. I was able to stop the leaking water heater and drain it correctly. Thank you!
You're welcome, we're glad to hear that the video helped you!
Why or what caused it to leak? Sorry if dumb question
I hooked my line to my washer supply hose to back flush it and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for watching Barry, we're glad that tip worked for you!
Same! The greatest DIY tip I have gotten in a while.
Yes, this is the correct method. I change my electric heaters to a ball valve, full port. I have had to run wire or a 3/8 " water line inside to agitate the sediment. Also for the thrifty, turn off the water heater and have a bath before the flush.
Thanks for watching. We're glad to hear that you also made the upgrade to the ball valve! Cheers
You’re smart. Can you come to our house and do this to our Rheem HWHr?
We tried to do this guy’s flush today because our current 1 yr. old Rheem replaced an ONLY 4 YR. OLD Rheem still under Warranty that totally crapped out (And WHAT a song and dance getting this accomplished through Rheem🎵 ☹️)
Gawd - What a pain-in-the-….. plumbing is.
I've seen some videos unprofessionally rushed trying to show what you just did....This was more understanding and helpful. Thank you, everything worked out well.👍
Thank you, we're just glad people are finding these videos helpful!
First video I’ve seen showing to use a washer hose to clear the line!!! Genius!!
I have a ton of problems with high calcium in appliances and this trick may help.
Thanks for watching. We're glad that you found it helpful. There is another option that can help in the future. Many people have found it helpful to install a full port 3/4" ball valve. This is shown in this video here: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
I watched several videos to get multiple viewpoints. This video was an excellent place to sum up what I'd learned. It was consistent with others while short and to the point.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
I've been putting off learning how to do this for years (okay, decades). THANKS!
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
Our hot water heater [HWH] had not been flushed for more years than I want to admit. Following the directions in this video I got next to no where. Blowing cold water in from the washing machine cold water point 6 times into the HWH didn’t do the trick. So I shut off the HWH drain valve and let my drain hose [laid outside the house] drain until empty. Then I stood on a ladder and using a funnel that fit inside the hose shut off valve on the end of it - I filled the hose with white vinegar. When the hose was full, I shut off the valve on the end of the hose and reconnected it to the cold water hose for the washing machine. I then turned on the cold water to pressurize that hose, opened the valve at the end of the drain hose and then the drain valve on the HWH. In this sashion I blew about a pint of vinegar into the HWH. I did this twice and now the sediment has been disolved enough that water is flowing strongly out of the drain hose.
Thanks for sharing your experience! We try to give enough information to point people in the right direction but there are always cases that are more difficult than others. It's not surprising that after so many years without any flush that it took vinegar to help dissolve the sediment. Cheers.
Great video. Explains everything needed in a fraction of the time. Thank You.
You're welcome Melanie, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Tip: Remove aerators from faucets before this! Return after you have filled tank and flushed out lines a bit.
Thanks, that is a solid tip!
Thanks for showing us how to flush our water heaters. I plan to do this, since I have some time -- because of being unemployed during Corona Virus. Good way to save money and protect the unit.
You're welcome Poe! We're glad that you found the video helpful! If you're curious we have many more videos on our channel. Here's one on Multimeters and Electricity Basics ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
If you WH is old like mine, after the flush I suggest that you refill the tank slowly. My first time I did not - blasted the water back in with the valve wide open and ended up with a lot of sediment suspended in the tank which = tan colored water. I redid the flush and then Very Slowly filled the tank, progressively opening the valve more as the tank filled but never opening all the way. Made a huge difference. Nice clear water!!
Thanks for sharing those tips!
I’m glad you caught that because I was about to correct you myself. That would be problematic. I generally fill up the tank and listen to know that it’s filled. Than I plugged the hot water heater on and let it heat up some for about 15 to 20 minutes than I turn on the faucets. Turning on the faucets in this fashion not only gets the air out but the sediment in the pipes which is why you usually will see brown water for about 50 seconds or so. If you turn on the water before filling the tank you could damage the hot water heater.
Thanks for watching. Also those are solid tips!
If it stops draining and still not empty , just lift the hose up to your height and shake a few times then blow like inflating a balloon if necessary ; OR shut off boiler drain and open water supply, that will move that big chunk of sediment out of the way stirring the bottom of the tank. I usually just connect the hose and open boiler drain, the chunks might break loose with the pressure, and you can hear them rattling in the bottom then combine on and off of water supply and boiler drain till you get good free flow and no more sediment, . Believe me , I'm a plumber and it's been times I had to remove lower heating element to be able to push sediment out, never been flushed in ten, 15 or 20 years.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience. Those are some good tips!
Detailed perfectly on both electric and gas water heaters. Thank you for this video. Greatly appreciate it.
You're welcome Madelyn, we're glad that you found the video helpful!
@@AmreSupply you saved me 😊
Did NOT go so smoothly for us.
Can we drain the water to the sump tanks drain?
Thanks for watching. As long as the water isn't extremely hot then it should be fine to drain into the sump pump basin. If the water is over 60°C then it might damage sump pump components.
THank you for making me look like a Hoss with the wife and kids, this was easy and very informative. Thank you again, liked and subbed
Glad it was helpful, and thank you for the subscription!
Very helpful video- thanks! I get parts and supplies from Amre all the time- they are awesome! Knowledgeable staff and fast delivery and I love to support a local company.
Thank you Levi for your kind words, we're just happy to help in-store or here on RUclips!
As a plumber of over 20 years, the best way to get rid of sediment is to cut both copper lines drop that concrete filled water heater and install a new one. I have seen too much sediment run through the house clogging up all the fixtures.
Hi Vinny thanks for sharing your experience. What do you think about regular or yearly flushing as a way to prevent a buildup of sediment?
@@AmreSupply I tell my customers if you start from the time the water heater is new you should be okay but if you go back in after a water has been sitting for even only 2 years you run the chance of distributing that lime and scale all over the house
I’ve seen 30-50 year old tank water heaters. The common ground of all was filtered water. They all had 5 micron filtration prior to water entering the tank. The amount of times the tank fires up is another factor. Pressure is a huge factor. Last common factor is bonding and ground.
Thanks for sharing. Its not common to have all the right factors in place for 50 years of service but it does happen.
Apparently MY WATER is two parts dirt to One part 💧 water.
😤
Or else Rheem electric HWH’rs are the biggest piles of crap on the residential market today.
Best instroctional video sofar.
I knew I could count on the Canadians!
Thank you, we're just happy to help!!
So I would recommend replacing any plastic valves with a brass valve. I have always attached the hose and open the drain. Valve first before turning off supply to heater. After you drain the heater adding a full port hose bib will speed up draining and cleaning in the future
Thanks for watching. You are right that brass valves are the way to go. In this video we show how to replace the drain valve and also outline the 3/4" full port ball valve as an option.
*NOTE* At 2:47 the hot water handle is opened. This is an error and the cold water handle should have been opened instead. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing). This wasn't noticed until after filming was complete.
So take down the video and reshoot it!
I was wondering!
@@UncleFjester Thanks for watching. Removing the video would mean it would lose all interactions, comments, and views and that is something you don't get back. For a reshoot, the error would have to more significant than the difference between the hot and cold handles. This is something that someone can figure out and is why we put this note.
Yep I saw that was going to comment as if you are back flushing and of course have the water to the tank off then use the hot water to supply water back words well oops 😬 not going to work.
It would be a good idea to make sure a faucet is open on the hot side to allow the water into the tank.
I and my brother that lives next door to me built our homes at the same time. We put in the same identical hot water heaters, ( Electric & the same Brand ) I had to replace mine after 15 years, my brothers hot water tank is still going strong seven years later. The only difference in our hot water tanks is I flushed mine every year, my brother has never flushed his. The plumber that helped me change it asked me on the phone how much have I flushed it out through the years, I asked him why was that a factor, he explained that water heaters that have been changed by him the majority were changed had been flushed out on a regular basis. I stopped flushing mine. Both my brother and I are on the same well water also, sharing a deep 600 ft deep well.
Merci ! Excellent video .....just finished flushing and your video proved to be of immense assistance....now I can impress my friends !
You're welcome Glenn! We're glad that the video helped you out!
Thank you! I liked your clear explanations and step-by-step advice. Going to try this now!
You're welcome Heather! We're glad you found the video helpful!
What about my video
Thanks for this very clear instruction. Question... We have an American ProLine 40 gallon tank. It's now about 7 years old. The makes a "banging" noise whenever we run hot water for more than a minute or so. There are no problems, just the noise. The banging never occurred in our old water heater (also a 40 gallon) and only started about 3-4 years into use on the current water heater. We don't have an expansion tank and never have. We suspect that an expansion tank may solve the noise problem, but will probably not bother unless the banging is going to make the water heater fail sooner than without adding one. By the way we do have a water softener and the water entering the tank is softened. Thoughts? Should we be concerned and do something about the water heater banging noise?
Thanks for watching. If the banging happens when you stop the water flow, then that would be water hammer. In your case it seems like the noise happens after water runs for a minute, so it is likely air bubbles rising to the surface and pushing sediment around the inside of the tank. Doing a flush can help reduce the sediment and might reduce the noise.
It took me a few hours to fine something useful. Thanks!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Great instructional video... TIP.. draining tank wirh this approach only works if drain hose is below the level of tank (gravity). I saw people doing it by putting hose into a sink and they wondered why is not working 😕
Thanks for watching. Draining into a sink would only work if the entire hose is full of water as this would create a syphon. Pockets of air inside of the hose might also disrupt the syphon.
Tank Water Heater is very conveniently , I truly recommend !!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this. Question: I ended up doing the 20-second flush at least 8 times. Brown water every flush. Finally a friend gave me advice to keep valve open while cold water intake valve is open. At this point the outflow got a little more clear so I called it a night.
Also I feel you kind of rushed the part about air flush after the water flush, before turning back on the heater.
Thanks for watching. Thank you for the feedback. Yes for filling the tank you'll have to run water out of a faucet until the water runs clear. This might might take some time.
Thanks Amre Supply for such good video !
You're welcome Hemayet, we're glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for this video it was very informative I will have to start doing this on a regular basis
You're welcome we're just happy to help!
Thank you. I had alot of mineral deposits. So toward the end
I would open the water valve for a few seconds, bust up the minerals while the spigot remained open. Seemed to work pretty good.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
@@AmreSupply pushing water back into the tank as you showed was the biggest help to get it going. Had to do it about 3 seperate times. ❤️ Now the tank seems to reheat faster and hasnt overheated like before.
@@morriskl3 >> Happy it all worked out for you. Our ‘draining’ did not go well. Perhaps it was this pressure release valve on the top of our electric HWHr….
Hubby and I are consulting a divorce atty tomorrow…😮
(😉)
I don't understand why in the video the back flush is done by opening a HOT water faucet. I would assume that one should open a COLD water faucet, since there shouldn't be any pressure or water in the hot water pipe coming to the faucet - the water supply to the tank is cut off and the tank feeds the hot water pipe feeding the faucet. Am I missing something?
Thank you for watching! You have a good eye and that is one error that made it into the final video. When we filmed that shot we naturally showed did it in a way so the arm wouldn't block the shot. In this case what looked visually good while filming, created a continuity error that went unnoticed until after filming is complete. Unfortunately we can't change that shot now without deleting the video.
So I should turn on my cold water, not hot water for the faucet?
@@junkim5331 If you need to do a back flush, yes. A back flush with hot water won't work because you won't have any hot water to use, your tank will be empty.
Got it! Opened the pressure value and it started draining!
If I'm getting dirty hot water, is it too late? 😢😢😢
Edit/PS. I'm a Grandma lady on a fixed income and have no one to help me. Many of my appliances are broken and there are plumbing problems too. I do what I can to fix it myself and I really appreciate videos like yours! Thank you very much! I look forward to your reply!😊
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help people who are willing to learn. You can do a test to determine if the problem is the water heater or corrosion in the hot water pipes. If you drain a little bit of water out of the bottom and see if that compares to what is coming out of your taps. If it is similar then it is likely sediment from the tank. In this case a tank flush might help. If you flush your tank and drain the sediment and the water is still dirty, then it is likely that tank is nearing the end of it's lifespan.
Alternatively if only the water coming out of the hot water faucet is dirty, then it's possible that the pipes between your water heater and your faucet are corroded.
@@AmreSupply Thank you very much! I can't tell you how helpful this is to me and I'll check it out! 😊👍
what about using the air release valve in the side of the tank. Don’t you need to open that too? I had seen orher videos do that. Can you explain the process why do or nor do that? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If you open a hot water faucet when you drain the tank, it will release the air, so either will work.
Great 👍 very professionally done and explained
Thank you
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Good video and explanation but I have a suggestion. Replace the tank drain gate valve with a ball valve. You should precious few if any issues with the drain valve clogging, essentially eliminating the need for the back-flushing operation. Also, any dirt, grit, sediment, etc. between the gate valve internal seat and washer when attempting shutoff will otherwise ruin the valve seat and almost guarantee leakage from then on. Just my two sense (cents, lol) from having rental properties.
Thanks for watching! That is a great tip as full port ball valves are rock solid. This is something that we mention in the drain valve replacement video: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
Great video! How often is it needed to do this?
Thanks for watching. Some people do yearly flushes and others do not flush for years. It depends on how hard of water there is in your area. You can do a flush and check and see how much sediment comes out. Also without a full port drain valve, less sediment is removed as the pre-installed valves have a smaller diameter. With a lot of flushing there is a chance that the drain valve might not close properly so that is another factor to consider. The difference is shown here: ruclips.net/user/shortsC3-eTMsbO40
Best video of all time
Thank you, we're glad you found it helpful!
Great quick how to! Saved me 👍. Thanks! 😊
Glad it helped!
Straight and to the point. Thank you
You're welcome Melissa!
Fantastic video. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful & to the point video.
Thanks
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Both clear and concise video
Thanks for watching!
We have an electric Rheem with a pressure release valve on top.
We followed your instructions and left that pressure valve alone - opening a HW faucet in the house instead.
No water would drain.
So we decided to back flush, but needed one ☝🏼more female end to run to HWHr. We couldn’t get the female end of the hose loose from the male outdoor spigot. Rusted into eternity. 🤨
NOW, what to do?
After a nasty fight, including the temptation to take a wrench to each other, we opened up the cold water valve and flushed about 25 gallons of nice, Softened Hot Water into the yard.
We still have to replace the hose spigot with the female end we needed that is permanently rusted to a garden hose (Did I mention hubby tends to TIGHTEN those nuts 🔩 and bolts until almost stripped?)
BUT, the source water pipe to the garden spigot won’t turn off, even though the valves below the spigot are turned off…😞🤦🏻♀️
Yeah.
Do-it-yourself home maintenance is freaking worth it. 🙇🏻♀️
Thanks for sharing your experience. With time, parts become worn out, rusted and it most certainly adds more variables into any maintenance or repair. It is hard for us to cover all the potential scenarios that can emerge but we did do a video on showing how to remove a broken plastic drain valve: ruclips.net/video/4m1KxuHewHY/видео.html Still we might do a video in the future talking about what to do with stripped threads and other common mishaps.
Unclogging it by connecting a hose from a faucet to the drain pipe did the trick!
Thanks for watching, we're glad to hear that it worked!
I always have to lift the little valve at the top of the heater to get the water draining but when I do it works great. Just dont see it much in these videos. I've always needed to do it though even when it was brand new.
Thanks for watching. You are right that the relief valve can also be used to purge the air in the system.
Sometimes the relief valve may not close properly after, I've had several that slow dripped after opening as you suggested, all on older units requiring replacing. I don't use them that way any more.
A couple of observations when you backflush, shouldn't you use cold water? The hot water will be off at the haterheater. Also shouldn't you use a different faucet than you are using to vent the hot side?
Thank you for watching. You have a good eye. This has been pointed out in previous comments but unfortunately its not something that we can update. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times / locations, and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing).
An ideal instructional. Thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Question and sorry if this is a dumb question. My water valve is corroded to the point that I can’t turn it off. Could I still do the flush with the cold water running and still follow the rest of your instructions. Also let’s say I can’t shut off the main line water to the house either.
Thanks for watching, and that is a perfectly valid question. If there's no way for you to shut off the incoming water supply then its likely that your tank would drain slower than the refill rate from your cold water supply line. Drain valves do not have large openings and often there is debris that will slow down the draining. So if your drain valve drains at 0.5 - 1 gallons per minute and your cold water supply line fills at 1.5+ gallons per minute then you wouldn't be able to drain the tank completely. Still you'd be cycling some of the water and some of the debris might flush out during that process. So you could try draining some water and monitor what comes out of the hose to see if any sediment is being removed.
If we have a sediment issue should we expect to see the sediment flush out of the hose as we drain the tank?
Thanks for watching. Depending on the size of the sediment you should see some.
Great Video.
Question:
Why do you need a washing machine hose?
Thanks for watching. Any hose with a male and female connections will be needed to connect for a back flush. Washing machine hoses have those connections.
How long should you wait for the tank to cool before filling back up with cold water?
Thanks for watching. By the time you drain the tank it should be cooled down.
Excellent video!🤙
Thank you!
Thanks so much! Is the same process for an indirect water heater and can I use a transfer pump to move the draining water further?
Thanks for watching. Yes if you have a indirect water heater with a drain valve then it can be drained in the same way. A pump can be used but keep in mind that that very hot water might be damaging to some transfer pumps.
@@AmreSupply Thanks, I will have to check that.
Thanks so much for this vid and the other one about replacing the pressure release valve- mine was dripping. Great info.
You're welcome! We're just glad that the videos are helping!
Before filling water heater is good time to replace anode rod if haven't done so in 5+ years.
Also, I would choose opening bathtub valve for air, especially if it has separate hot/cold valves;
no need to mess with sink faucet aerators.
Thanks for watching, those are some great tips! We do show how to check the anode in our water heater maintenance guide: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
I replaced my anode rod and flushed too
If you put the Pilot light in the “pilot” position when starting the process, why did you have to relight the pilot at the end? Or was that just a filming error?
Thanks for watching. In the video the gas was shut off and the temperature was set to the "pilot setting" which means it is the lowest setting. At this point the pilot flame and burner are complete disconnected from the gas while the tank is being drained.
Thank you for the wonderful video,. I am looking into replacing my supply lines with flexible lines... Should I worry about galvanic corrosion? Seems like the materials would clash. Would liquid teflon product suffice or ? Thank you for the help
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. What you'll want to use is a dielectric nipple which will help prevent galvanic corrosion. Some regions the plumbing code will actually require a dielectric nipple to be used so it's best to check the codes for your region.
Question here please. My tank has 8 year warranty, I'm on the 9th. Ive never drained it until now. I agitated the bottom many times and finally got the tank to run clear. Problem is inside hot water is still off colour. I live in Vancouver, BC for location. Evety plumber says I need a new tank. Is there more I can do?
Thanks for watching. There might have been some very fine sediment that is now floating in the tank. After a shower or two that will likely disperse. If the tank is still heating effectively you might not need a new one. Has the water started to run clear now?
Thank you for this video you saved me big money
You're welcome! We're glad the the video helped you out!
First of all thank you for a very detailed and easy to follow video. I have a Question- Can we add a cleaning agent (like Clorox etc.) thru the reverse flow and then flush it out to clean up the sediments?
You're welcome, we're just happy to help. Some people have found it helpful to use vinegar as it is easy to use and doesn't contain added chemicals.
Very good explanation. Thank you.
You're welcome Robert!
Many water heaters come with a cheap plastic drain valve that's not nearly as good and well designed as the brass one you show in this video (even on water heaters approaching $1,000). What are the chances that my plastic drain valve will seal off after I do the flush? I can fully see mine not sealing off no matter how hard I tighten it.
Thanks for watching. It is partially how the valve is designed. Any valve (plastic or brass) runs the risk of debris preventing the rubber in the stopper from closing properly. A full port ball valve does not have this problem. This video explains this in more detail: ruclips.net/user/shortsC3-eTMsbO40
Best video ever thanks!!
Glad you liked it!
Is it okay to use the water heater drain as an outdoor spigot line for rinsing purpose? The water heater at my property has a line connected to the drain that leads through the wall and outside spigot. Between the line looks be a converter because if I touch the line before it, the pipe is warm. But when you turn on the spigot outside it comes out cold. My tenants have been using it to rinse off beach sand off their dogs or items as we live in a beach community. Not a full flush out, its just a few minutes usage of water to wash of sand. Do you know if this is okay or is it likely to cause damage on the water heater?
Thanks for watching. If the water heater was supplying water to that outdoor spigot then it would also be warm. It is possible that it looks like it is connected but there is another line somewhere connected to the outdoor spigot.
Regardless if you are draining water from the bottom of the water heater, you might get some sediment but you'd still be able to safely rinse off sand etc.
@@AmreSupply do you guys have an email address? I can send pictures of what it looks like
You can also try squeezing the hose repeatedly near the valve, to break the sediment loose, if you don’t have an extra washing machine hose to back flush
Thanks for watching. That is a great tip!
@@AmreSupply I definitely like your method better; especially, if doing yearly maintenance, as I believe it releases more of the sediment. I use the pumping method, when draining the tank for removal, or have a long run with the discharge hose and no where near a water supply.
I just recently found this channel. I have to say that I’m very impressed with the effort and quality of the video, as well as, the accuracy of the content, so I subscribed immediately. I look forward to watching more videos and keep up the good work.
@@johnharrison5656 Thank you for subscribing! It's good to have the quality recognized. There is a lot of content out there and one of our main goals was to make it easy to understand and accessible. This meant putting more time into research and writing scripts as well as making graphics. We just finished a series on oven and stove repairs which we're happy with ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt and are currently working on refrigerator repairs which will come out in 2022. Cheers!
@@AmreSupply Thanks I’ll check it out.
I just replaced a 4 year old 40 gallon gas Rheem with an A.O. Smith. If memory serves, the first year I tried to flush it out it drained very very slow. I don't think the tank ever drained all the way. So after leaving the drain valve opened for most of the day hardly any water came out. When I disconnected the unit...sure enough, it was full of water and heavy as ever. I left the drain valve opened and smashed it off with a hammer and I could see calcium deposits completely covering the hole. I took a screw driver and jammed it in and then the water came pouring out fast with lots of pressure shooting out about 3 feet at first. I noticed even on the new unit that when I drained it for a minute it wasn't even that fast. Not even close. Are these units outfitted with a drain valve that is purposely small so it will catch calcium build up over time so you have to replace the unit sooner? Water is so hard here in Phoenix I am going to drain quarterly and monitor the pressure output as time goes by.
Thanks for watching. The factory installed valves are more prone to clogging as the opening is not very large. To prevent this you can easily make a new drain valve using a full port brass ball valve. This is shown here: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
@@AmreSupply I'm learning this as I go. Thanks so much I'll check it out when I get back to my place.
@@AmreSupply my drain valve is plastic with a hose connection and then he screwdriver release on it. I'm hoping since it's a brand new water heater that it will be easy to remove. Thanks again for your help
@@AmreSupply Got it done today. Makes all the difference!!! Thanks again.
@@mykylc You're welcome, we're just happy to help in what small way we can. Thanks for the update, we're glad that the repair went smoothly, the ball valve is definitely a good upgrade to have!
When u put shot of cold water again to move the setiment around u need to turn all water supply back right ?...just trying to follow this to a T
Thanks for watching. To blast cold water into the tank you just need to open the cold water supply.
Silly questions but should the hose be a cheap one? will it ruin the hose cause of the hot water? can it be drained into street? I was told to do it once a year is that enough?
Hi Sarah, thank you for watching. Hot water can degrade garden hoses but it won't instantly destroy it but it will cause it to wear out faster though. There are "hot water" hoses but they are more expensive. You can however, turn off the water heater (but leave the cold supply open) and take a shower or do a load of laundry first. This will help use up the hot water in the tank. Afterwards the water in the tank will be warm but not as hot as before. This will make it easier on any hoses that you use. As for the frequency of a tank flush it really depends on the hardness of your water and how much sediment accumulates. For many people once a year can work. During that time it's worth checking the anode rod to see if it needs replacement: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
The water can be drained into a sump pump as well, correct? Not all homeowners have a drain.
Hi Chris, thank you for watching. That is a good observation, and yes you can drain the water heater into the sump pit as the sump pump will just run once the level gets high enough.
@@AmreSupply will hot water into a sump pit affect the pump in a negative way?
@@caprisun2k1 If the water isn't too hot then it shouldn't be an issue. You can always turn off the water heater, and take a hot shower to help it cool down before draining it.
I just did rained HWT this past weekend. One question, now one of my interior sinks will not run water. No hot, just a small stream of cold. Every other faucet words fine. I left the faucet on for 8hrs and nothing changed. Any advice?
Thanks for watching. It could be helpful to clear or replace the aerator as well you could, turn off the shutoff valve, disconnect the faucet supply lines and see if the how water flows once you open the shutoff valves. If the hot water flows when the faucet supply line is disconnected. then the blockage is in the faucet.
Great instructional video!
Thank you Doug!
I did this today. Took me 5 hrs! Had to keep jabbing a coat hanger in there to get all debris out. Got about 2 gallons of junk. What do I use to remove the drain valve? My wrench wouldn’t do it.
Hi Jennifer, thank you for watching! Draining can be quite slow with a buildup of debris. In a lot of cases the drain valve might be pretty stuck. To help out you can make an extension for the wrench. If you put a piece of copper pipe overtop of the wrench and extend the handle by 2 feet, then you'll have more leverage. You'll notice that it might take a bit to "break it loose" as the drain valve threads are likely starting to get fused. Once you get it turning it might still take some effort to turn each time but will get easier after a few rotations.
Design Studio I got it pretty empty, but could NOT remove the anode rod. A waste of $50 for the new one😕
Design Studio yes! Sorry if I wasn’t clear.
Design Studio it’s 10 yrs old, but I’m the only one here, so not a lot of use. My male neighbor and I tried for hrs to remove the anode and it was a no go. Pipe wrench, bar, you name it.
Design Studio I saw something about draining them every couple of years and I hadn’t EVER done it, so I tried and it was blocked with calcium deposits and mineral sludge. My lower element was UNDER all that so it wasn’t efficient. If you clean it and replace the anode, they’ll last a lot longer.
When should a new water heater have this done? Also at what cadence?
Thanks for watching. It really does depend on how hard your water is. It's good to check the anode after a year to get a sense of how fast things are progressing. Some manufactures recommend yearly but if you have really hard water it might need to be done more often. This is covered in the maintenance guide: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
Can a broken outside spigot cause low water pressure in a house, My spigot does have a crack in it. I have no leaks in my home, water meter is remaining normal. But I have lost water pressure in my whole mobile home both hot and cold water. I replaced all faucets about a year ago and hot water tank as well.
Thanks for watching. A leak could create a drop in pressure but you'd see evidence of water around that spigot.
During the process of refilling the tank is there some sort of mechanism that keeps the unit from overflowing? My cold water valve on the water heater is in the on position, so i imagine when the unit refills it'll know at some point when to cease incoming water into the tank
Thanks for watching. When refilling the tank, have the hot water faucet open in the highest point of your home. The tank will fill until water will run through the hot supply pipes to the faucet. You'll notice bursts of air and water, and when the air stops "burping" then you'll know the tank is full and the hot water line is completely full of water. At that point shut off the hot water faucet, and the system will be good to go.
@@AmreSupply wow sensible and prompt response thank you so much, I truly appreciate it.
@@KusHome12 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
I'm curious how you're able to backflush from another sink by opening the hot valve🤔. Since the cold inlet valve on the water heater is closed there is no pressure on the hot side. I think you clearly meant to open the cold side to backflush. Minor oversight, awesome video!
Thank you for watching. You have a good eye! This has been pointed out in previous comments but unfortunately its not something that we can update. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing).
You can add annotations to your video using RUclips editor. Just find where you mention using hit water and add a big message on the screen saying "*COLD WATER* SORRY" or something. Good luck 👍
@@joepolidoro429 RUclips used to have Annotations as a feature but disabled it when they unified the experience with mobile devices. There are links (cards) that can pop up in the top right corner but these are not the same as annotations and aren't visible in the same way.
@@joepolidoro429 Due to the number of comments, just added a pinned comment which will show up at the top. Cheers!
@@AmreSupply that's wack
how did youtube realize i needed to know this? I was thinking about doing something like this since my water softener wasn't working for 1 year and I was concerned about solids in my water heater tank. Do analytics tap into our brains now?
Thanks for watching. Sometimes we just notice things more and it feels like a coincidence, and other times the algorithm cues into other searches or things that were viewed. Its hard to narrow down and know for sure.
Thank you. Love the step by step explanation.
You're welcome, we're glad that you found the steps helpful!
If I have already cut off the water to the hot water heater, and I am back-flushing, wouldn't I want to turn on the cold water, not the hot, so I'd get more pressure for the backflush?
Thank you for watching. You have a good eye. This has been pointed out in previous comments but unfortunately its not something that we can update. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing).
I would think you could push a smsll hose or rod into the drain valve to move the sediment outof the way
Thanks for watching. It depends on the valve. The standard drain valve is a threaded valve and is at an angle, so a piece of wire could bend around that corner. You can see this here: ruclips.net/user/shortsC3-eTMsbO40 If you do this just make sure you have some sort of container underneigh.
For back flush do i need to close the drain valve? Or does that stay open during back flush
Thanks for watching. When flushing the tank, it can be most helpful to drain the tank fully and then turn on the cold water supply to spay water onto the sediment at the bottom of the tank. A back flush can be done when the water isn't draining, as a back flush will help clear any sediment that blocked the drain valve. For a back flush you'll need the drain valve open.
very good explanation
Thank you Anil! We're glad you found it helpful!
How often do you recommend doing this?
Thanks for watching. It depends on the amount of sediment but some people do a flush as part of their yearly maintenance. Other people do not flush as often and only do it periodically.
If the backflush didn't help you can use the pressure relief valve for airflow too couldn't you?
Thanks for watching. If you opened up a hot water faucet in the line then it should have ample airflow for draining. Opening the relief valve is a closer solution and will do the same thing.
At time of installation have the plumber replace that highly restrictive hose bib. A 3/4 nipple, full port IP valve and hose adapter will turn a future lengthy flush job into a fast effective walk in the park.
Thanks for watching! Yes the full port ball valve works great. For anyone wondering these are the parts needed: ruclips.net/video/nGCejMsKNX4/видео.html
Is it better to open HW faucet on the 2nd floor sink to relieve air when filling hwh?
Thanks for watching. Yes since air will rise to the top, opening a hot water faucet on the 2nd floor will help purge the system of more air.
Well done video. Clear and full of details. Thanks
Thank you Olivier, we're glad you found the video clear and informative!
So when draining do I leave the faucet open and close the faucet when filling the tank back up?
Thank you for watching. The point of opening the facuet is to let the move freely in or out. You'll need to keep the hot water faucet open when draining the tank, and while filling the tank back up.
how often are you supposed to do this on a gas water heater in a hard water area?
Thanks for watching. You will hear many different recommendations as this really varies on how hard the water is and your location. If you think you have hard water, you might have to flush it yearly up to even every 6 months. When you flush you can check to see the amount of sediment that is removed.
What do you suggest if even the back flush fails to clear the clog? I've tried opening the drain valve with the water still going and that's only getting bits and pieces out
Thanks for watching. People have used a variety of creative solutions to clear a blocked drain.
You could use a wire to help push the sediment clear of the drain. Just make sure that you do not damage the rubber stopper or the drain valve might leak afterwards.
Other people have used compressed air to "burp" the system. Others have rigged up a shop vac to try to use suction to clear the blockage. These might take more creativity to set up.
My GE water heater is now 10 years old. The water heater was already in the house when i bought it and was never serviced by the previous owner. The hot water has far too little pressure at all the taps. But the cold water is under full pressure. I thought flushing the tank might help, but the pressure is still low. What else could be the problem?
Thanks for watching. Some hot water systems are fitted with filters, if there is a filter then a build up of sediment can restrict the flow for the hot water.
It can also be an issue with the pipes themselves. Sometimes corrosion can build up, but this will be effected by age of the home, water quality / composition, and the type of the pipes. This is harder to diagnose so it can be helpful to call a plumber in this case.
Great video!! Clear instructions. Able to flush my water heater.👍
Thank you Sairam! We're glad that the video helped you out!
What is the reason a water heater should be flushed?
My shower is coming out a yellowish brown color, would flushing it fix that?