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Wat if I see e5 come on the screen

Do you have to flush or clean it?

Aaron Rodgers

Thank you for your video

38mm 6 point impact socket is best solution on these. 12 point will round the nut off. 2 seconds freed up

One thing is the error of water flow e5 that a big thing that no one tell about it sucks that if shower is about 8 feet and I have to close the valve to avoid this issue and compromise the water pressure

Do the elements both pull the same load

Why would my tankless water heater not get hot

Yes the video was a failure. Delete it 🙄

Just once I’d love to find a video like this where they just get to the fucking point without all the jabbering about their personal life and shit. People are already frustrated

Hey I have a rheem 18kw And keep getting at e5 . Both L1 are 151v and both L2 are 85v but measure L1 and L2 and get 249.

Need to watch this

Best video on these electrical tankless! It shows full proof that the supply of hot water comes through right at the same time required for a typical tank system. I currently use a tank set to 120 deg, and it does everything needed for showers, washing dishes, clothes, etc. Thank You for this video! I am not an electrical engineer, but common sense tells me that even with the two incoming power feeds, the total overall demand for power throughout each day should drop a good bit because there is no energy ever in demand UNLESS the hot water is in demand.

cool vid dude, been wondering the difficulty for installing these

Why not buy a 6 sided socket, impact driver to remove helps in spades does what you can't mimic

Waste of my time watching it

The question is if it will fill a bathtub at a high rate.

How's it working? I'm interested in installing one. Just need know it keeps water hot

Where did you get the fittings? Are they 3/4 both ways for yours?

Just bought a house where they ‘rigged’ this water heater into a 30amp and 20amp breaker. Passed the visual inspection during the contingency. Moved in and it tripped after about 1 min. So now I have to get an electrician in here to re-wire 2 40amp breakers. The seller really ripped me off on this one!

Don't you own a belt sander? I would not recommend anti-seize on potable water, use PTFE plumbers paste. By the way I have taken them out with an impact wrench with no problem. Most likely your anode had eaten away and corrosion had galled the threads.

How many of us suffer through this from no fault of our own. It's the fault of the design engineer along with the CEO's and soulless marketing people who say don't make it good.

Its a tankless job but someone has to do it

Only thing I'm having trouble with are the ground wires. I know there's a separate thing that needs to be installed but I have no clue what that is

So I'm still confused. This doesn't need a neutral wire or is the ground the neutral in this application?

This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).

Speaking from experience i wouldn't recommend this thing. I had one installed on my family's cabin 5 months ago. It worked great up until about 3 weeks ago. Granted we have a well so we have hard water, but we literally take this thing apart twice a day, remove the impeller to the inlet and clean it, clean the inlet screen, flush it, etc. Hot water barely trickles out, we have a 200amp breaker, its not the power, its not the water pressure coming into the house, i even dug up our entire water main coming into the house, no leaks any where, nothing. If you call Rheem they will half ass tell you how to trouble shoot it and send you a manual on how to fix it and recommend parts. Mine was 3 DAYS out of warranty and they couldn't help me. Been taking baths in the lake. Very frustrating

For the equipment ground, why do you need two wires? Also why not use green insulated wire instead of bare copper, especially for long feeds.

Thanks. A very useful demonstration. I am considering this model. I would love to also see a test of sink plus shower at the same time. The main challenge with tankless is that they can become overwhelmed by simultaneous demand.

Thank you for the video. I used it last night to attach my new 18 kw Rheem . Hot water on demand. I like it so much, I offered to put one on at my parents and at my sisters houses too . Thank you again

Is the Rheem still working well for you ??

Be aware that the drain valve may become clogged. So you think you have drained the tank with the hose. But when you unscrew the old heater element, many cups of water pours out! Have lots of towels and a bucket on hand, in case this happens to you. (Yes, I had shut off the two valves connected to the housing plumbing system.) I bought a Carlyle 1.5" 6-sided socket ($35) from a NAPA store as others have mentioned, and also a 1.5 foot length of old iron pipe that slid over a typical 10" socket wrench handle. That provided enough leverage to unscrew the broken element. Be sure that you completely fill the tank before flipping the breaker to apply power: Turn on the two valves, then turn on a hot water faucet for at least 3 minutes to allow the tank to fill up. Look for leaks, then flip the breaker to ON. (See the video on Vimeo.com: Standard Electric REPLACE ELEMENT Rev 2A. Shows steps for draining and refilling the tank.)

So what about the common wire to feed all those Hot wires ? Just so I understand you connect 4 hot 8 gage wires to the unit ? Isn't that like 480? And no common? I thought I knew about electrical I guess not ?

So No common wires ?

If I use 8/3 do I put the neutral on the bar or cap off?

Very detailed video, it's difficult to find a detail video like this , very good job explaining

So you will need 4, 40 Amp breakers? Instead of just 2 40amp ?the unit runs on 75amps

Very informative thanks.

nice!

i move into a place that has one hot water not coming out base on thisevideo i think i have to replace something how do i open it?

Hey brother I just install one for a customer and I got to say I was amazed on how well it performs for a small unit I’m in cali LA water temperature here is 50/60 All we need is 120 so unit only has to do 70 degrees ez dose it with no problem This was a good video with a lot of info coming from a plumber I like it is a good unit

They had to change the design mine doesn'r have a buss bar for ground. Just a single post.

I have a RETEX-27, to overcome the colder water temperatures, in winter in Canada, I added a 44 gallon potable water storage tank to allow the water supply to temper to a warmer temperature before running it through the heater.

you save my day thank you

i could not remove the upper element, so i have it working with lower element only, and is working ok….i have plenty hot water…can i leave lt like that…?

I will try this as this looks like my last option since nothing else is worked.. and on a side note you have a water heater not a "hot water heater" otherwise there wouldn't be a point

I live in Michigan and have low inlet temps. I ran a loop off the supply that warms near my wood stove. It hits the inlet at 70f.

How do you reset it

Thank you….

I wired exactly that way and the unit does not come on at all after I switch the breakers on, I don’t know what I’m doing wrong