Suspension Basics 01: Suspension Component Movement
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- The first video in the Suspension Basics series explains the motion of link bars. The arced motion causes a pushing and pulling condition as the link bars move which plays a major role in the operation of the majority of suspension designs including front control arm suspension systems. This principle is also important when designing and building steering systems and drive shafts.
#AirSuspension #MiniTruck #Fabrication
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You have nailed presentation as well as covered all modalities, visual, auditory, even tactile with your use of illustration along with superb use of simple language to explain complex action, reactions. I taught automotive in local high school to a less than intrested audience. Your viewers want to be here and your style will bring more. Reminds me of the Jim Handy films Chevrolet made in the 30's to teach mechanical principals of there cars. I used these in my presentation during theory. If I were teaching today, yours would be used. I know this is a long comment and thank all that read to the end. I'm totally impressed!
I'm blown away by your comment. To be compared to Handy is huge. Jam's video on how a differential works was absolute magic. And these kind words coming from an automotive teacher is an honor. I just hope I can make you proud with future videos. Thank you.
@@GarageFab You are welcome!BTW, I subscribed after the first video that the algorithm thought I might like. This was my second! I still watch Jam Handy films but really looking forward to slow days at work so I can view all your content.
Even more thank you! 🙏
Dude! 5 years of an engineering apprenticeship and this makes more sense than any of it! Please keep teaching more and more!
Haha! Much appreciated my man. I graduated from High School a year late so that means a lot! There’s a bunch more in the works. I’ll be getting back at it shortly.
Thank you, Brother!
An amazing teacher you are. I'm an old hot rodder from the 70's and you're videos reveal the gaps in what I know! How satisfying to learn some more. Sincerest thanks.
There’s something special about learning that I just didn’t feel when I was a kid. Gaining knowledge now triggers a joy in me and so it’s become a craving. Happy to help, Manny! Thank you. 🙏
Wow! I used to recommend Herb Adams' Chassis Engineering book to everyone, but in 10 minutes you explained what it took me several read-throughs to understand many years ago. I especially love how you call out all our mentors who told us what, but not why. Keep it up!
Thank you Erik! Your kind words are greatly appreciated. 🙏 I’ll return the compliment: After hearing you say in your Battery Basics video, (Paraphrased) Good help isn’t found, It’s created. I realized we’ve got similar mindsets.
You keep it up as well. I’ll be watching.
Cheers my friend! 🍻
I never comment on videos!
They way you explain things, is absolutely amazing. Thank you for what you are doing here, I love all your videos. Thank you
Thank you, Bernhard! It’s more work than I expected so your words are greatly appreciated. See you in the next one! Cheers!
Mate.. such a good video! you made this so easy to understand while being entertaining at the same time!
Nice! Thank you. Happy to be of service. Lemme know how it crosses over to the RC world!
I've been slogging through a uni final year project to do with suspensions, it's refreshing to come across someone who has the same specific needs in terms of learning and processing info as I do!
This vid deserves millions more views
I'm just starting number one now and what I got out of it was the less forward backwards the better. So the longer the bars the better. I'm going to watch every d*** video in a row and apply this to my forty nine truck build. Your explanations are excellent thank you.
I think your understanding is correct, Sir! Lemme throw an additional piece of info in there that hopefully won’t confuse…
Longer link bars are generally better on adjustable height suspension, but perhaps more important is the relationship between the length of the link bars and the length of the driveshaft.
The slip yoke in a drive shaft is there to make up for the difference in front to back movement of the link bars and the driveshaft. Worded differently, if the link bars and the drive shaft were exactly the same length, you wouldn’t need a slip yoke!
I’ll be working on a video soon that I’m going to call “Third Links” that talks about the relationship between suspension components (link bars/control arms) and non-suspension components like drive shafts, tie rod ends, etc. I think that one will be pretty interesting. 👏
how I would have liked to find these videos years before. Thank you very much. that valuable information in a didactic and simple way, for people who are hard to understand like me :), but who want to understand how and why
Thank you my friend. Your kind words are greatly appreciated. I also appreciate learning new words. (Didactic)
The “Why” has always been the most important thing to me and it often answers questions all by itself.
Cheers!
Thanks for keeping it interesting and informative. I have subscribed today and binge watched 12 videos. I enjoy the honesty, movie clips, levity and more that anything, information.
Thanks much!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Thank you, Dean! You are very much appreciated. And I appreciate learning a new word! “Levity.”
I have been watching a bunch of suspension videos and this video by far is the best schooling i've had. Well, there was this 40 year old woman and I was 20 And boy did she school me. Anyway you get what I mean ha ha.
Oh boy! 😂 Thank you for the kind words, my man! 🙏
You earned my subscription to your channel in a basic intro! Humble learning/teaching with explanations for 'why'? Yes, please!
I 'failed' (stagnated) out of college for the same reasons you gave... Turns out that I was/am autistic, and most of us just can't learn by drilling of formulae without the 'why/how'.
Thank you, Brian! I’m excited to have you on board. Your words mean a great deal to me and have provided me with some much needed motivation.
So you in the next one!! 👊
I dont know why you're not at 1M sub. Your quality and knowledge is well worthy of it!!
Thank you my friend! All in good time.
We’ll get there! 🙌
They are sleeping on you bro! Amazing! Definitely watching more!!
So very much appreciated, my friend! See you in the next one. 👊
Your series deserves more attention. Very informative and well made, thank you very much
Thank you, Blake!! I agree. Feel free to share with anyone you think would benefit from it! 🍻
You've just become my favorite RUclips guy. Your explanations are great. I'd love to hear you explain IFS and IRS with anti-dive and anti-squat geometry. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words, Doug! The IFS is certainly coming just as soon as we wrap up the rear on my Wife’s Mighty Max, but it could be quite some time until I get to talk about independent rear setups. My next truck build which I’m incredibly excited about unveiling will be fully independent front and rear so the discussion will definitely be had. But unfortunately not until next year if I’m being realistic. Hopefully you’ll stick around for it. It won’t disappoint.
Excellent presentation! I have a lifetime Automotive Teaching Credential at the College level in California, Very Well done.
Nice! That means a lot, Robert. Thank you. 🙏
Thank you for making this video. I really appreciate the simple explanation!
My pleasure, Matt! Thanks for watching.
Hey I get you completely comprehensible hopefully my next lesson will be just as insightful & inspiring so school on brother
I’ll do my best, Kristian! Glad to have you. See you soon.
Very nice illustration /explanation of how the rear suspension has arc travel showing the push and pull . I have always wondered why on my 67 Chevy with rear trailing arms the drive shaft is a fixed length from the carrier, bearing to the rear axle I always wondered why it did not need a slip shaft somewhere in the drive shaft all I can figure is that the travel is so limited maybe 10 or 11 inches total ( in stock form )
Thank you Pete! Without actually measuring, I would guess that the length of your driveshaft is the same as the distance between the front and rear axis of your trailing arms.
I’ll soon be working on a video I plan to call “Third Links” That discuss how non-suspension components (like driveshafts, CV axles, steering tie rods, air every motorcycle chains) interact with suspension components as they move. I think it’ll be really interesting.
See you then!
Brother you were made to teach; and this is coming from a college professor. Awesome video.
Wow! That means a lot, Neel! That’s coming from someone that hated school with all his heart. Thank you for the kind words, my man! 🍻
Very knowledgeable and a great educator! Alot of this is common sense, but I didn't it realize until you pointed it out, then I had the ah hah moment. Thanks so much for clarifying these subjects. I especially liked the driveline angle video which set the story straight once and for all.
My pleasure Kevin. Happy to be of service. Thank you for donating your time!
Im going to have to rewatch this video a few times. Made more sense when you drew the horizontal lines .
I think it the future videos I'm going to incorporate a graph paper background to make movements much more visible.
Just stumbled on your videos today... Thank you... I need to start with that.. You are doing a great service to those of us in the Hot Rod world and I sincerely appreciate it! I've been working on cars all my life but your videos are teaching me things I never fully understood. Sincerely appreciate you taking time to make these videos! You got a like from me!
Thank you my friend. 🙏 Your words mean a lot! They provide some very much needed motivation. It’s a wee bit more challenging than expected so comments like these help quite a bit.
If all of my classes in public school had been this good I might have actually been excited and applied myself. Lighting included. I really appreciate that someone on youtube has figured out how to properly light their set. This is the first video I’ve seen of yours but if they’re all like this, you could be on network television. 10/10 thus far.
Thank you, Matthew. That’s greatly appreciated! School and I didn’t get along either. I was bored and stubborn and refused to take part. It took a lifetime to realize learning was actually enjoyable when someone made it entertaining.
Lighting comment is good to hear too. I retired from wedding photography for this. 😂
There’s many more videos on the way. Hope to see you there! Thanks again. 🍻
Wish we had you as a crew chief instructor in 85 in the usaf. Lol great job
I would have been 4 years old and aside from being adorable, I don’t think I would’ve been much use to you. 😂
Thank you, Joseph. That means a lot!! You are appreciated.
I'm not building anything and I love your videos, dude!
I like your style of information and theory Trying to figure out for my 61 Caddy convert best suspension without giving up the great Caddy cush ride thanks Danny
Air suspension is the way to go my friend! I occasionally like a stiff sporty suspension, but nothing compares to the luxurious cloud-like feel of air springs with low pressure.
Thank you, Danny! 🙌
Just found your videos definitely subscribing. I’ve never seen it. Explain so well and so simple.
Thank you, Rich! Happy to have you. See you in the next! 🙌
I'm bingeing powertrain vids to have a better understanding for my new job. I watched your Suspension Basics 06 and now I have to watch them all. I love the mix of explaining the "how" and also the "why". Plus the right amount of humor lol. I like this guy, will subscribe
Thank you Devin! Thrilled to have you. If you’ve got questions you know where to find me. Cheers!
Thank you for explaining this. You really make it easy to understand.
My pleasure, Brother! It’s what I do! Thank you for the kind words. 👊
I know this is an old video but it is invaluable - you are a phenomenal teacher and have great optimism for teaching!
You are very much appreciated, my friend! 🙏
You are an amazing teacher. Thanks.
Thank you Scott! 🙏
Wow ... Well thought out teaching method and presentation, extremely easy to understand.
Thank you, John! If that is your real name.
You are appreciated. 🍻
Clean, Simple Amazing instruction..
Thank you, Sean!
Knowing the "What to Do" without the "Why to Do IT" is like standing on two posts over a tube of water, without the second post, pretending you're not going to get wet! Thanks! JD
My pleasure my friend. Thank you. 🙏
Congrats from Brazil. Very useful videos! ❤
Thank you my friend! You are very much appreciated. 🙏
Nicely presented, I'll pass it on to some that has trouble imagining link travel.
Thank you! That would be appreciated. You are appreciated. There’s several more to come. 🙌
I'm a layman just trying to get a better understanding of suspensions. You have hit the nail on the head where most miss. A huge pet peeve of mine, when learning any new subject, is that so many people or websites or videos just jump in to the "THIS is how you DO it", instead of, "this is WHY You do it.". This seems to be rampant in society and I'm not sure why. I'm very OCD so if I don't understand WHY I'm to do something, I become a bit paralyzed with overthinking. It's hard to find this info.
I've been searching high and low about suspension movement and why certain changes don't just rip bolts out of their mounting points due to axle rotation, etc. So, thank you for this. I'm looking forward to watching this little series. It's obvious you enjoy not only the "how" but the "why", and I think the foundational "why" will always (almost) lead to a better "how".
You’re my type of person my friend. School was always the how and rarely they why. Perhaps I’m abnormal, but often the why is enough for me to come up with my own how.
How’s the journey going so far? Have you got a project or just a desire to learn?
I am so glad I found your channel. Thank you!! I built a jeep based on no knowledge and blew up a few pieces without knowing the why of the geometry..
Love these videos and how you explain things. I learn alot!
No better compliment could be said. I struggle to make things clear and understandable. Thank you!
great vid just bought cj7 jeep not sure its your kind of vehicle but great vid as just starting to put back as all the suspension was stripped out when i bought it, most small shops here as over the pond here in the UK as it looks like all your work shops over there are vast . as i'm 65 always used a mechanic . so now new hobby and need new skills so thanks for you knowledge , you are so right about learning i could read for hours, but get more from you in ten minutes. keep it coming
Thank you my friend! I’m hoping to have the opportunity to visit the UK in February. 🤞
The CJ7 is certainly NOT my typical vehicle, but the basics apply to just about everyone. Feel free to ask questions during your build. I’d be happy to help the best I can. Cheers!
@@GarageFab ha might do that as like the idea of having a compressor to operate ride height to lower to get in and out then ride height would be at the max travel cheers Sam
Absolute perfection in your education! I love the visual demonstration… thank you! Such a great video
Thank you my friend. 🙏 Happy to be of service.
About to start my own project car and I’m going through your suspension videos yet again! Thanks
Excellent. Best of luck my friend. Lemme know if you need guidance!
Great video! Excited to see them all.
Thank you! I'm excited to make 'em!
This dude is awesome! Thank you so much for helping us all and explaining it so well! 👊😎
Thank you Shaun. I appreciate your kind words. Cheers! 🍻
@@GarageFab your very welcome my friend. Merry Christmas 🎅
Thank you for your existence.
I know zero about automotive anything- maybe even less than zero, I have no mechanical or automotive background but I'm trying to learn and understand more. Even though some stuff is over my head, I still walk away feeling I learned so much from you. Thank you for keeping it simple, and for prioritizing understanding while being humble about it. Looking forward to watching and learning more! =)
Yes!!! 🙌 Those words mean a lot to me, Maria. Thank you. Best of luck on your journey and don’t be shy about asking questions. I answer all that I can. Cheers!
Awesome job I could literally watch Wyatt hours of your videos in one setting you are a pretty awesome dude. Thank you
Haha! Thank you for that! I imagine one day there will be hours of content.
"explain it to me like I was in the 1st grade".....thanks. Your lectures are awesome. Im going to need more crayons.
Haha! That’s when I retained the most. Everything after second grade has been long forgotten.
Thank you my friend. 🙏
1:38 "Why?"- I'll add, "don't ask why, just do it!" We must have been coworkers and classmates my friend! I don't even need to finish the vid and I know I'm subscribing! I have learned that most of the time the reason I recieved answers like that throughout the years was because whoever was teaching me didn't know the why themselves! I wouldn't settle for being handed a fish, especially when I didn't know what kind it was!
Haha! Yes!!! 🙌 I hope I can convince most of my audience to understand why “why” is so important. Not only for information retention, but also to help find teachers worth listening to. Learners should ask why childishly until the teacher can answer in basic knowledge.
Glad to have you my man!
@@GarageFab Binge watched several videos buddy! Love your style and humor and the efforts you've put into your teaching props and explanations is top tier! Looking forward to future projects and content! Keep the momentum my friend!
Well momentum kinda went out the window when home renovations started. But we’re coming back!
The only inaccuracy I saw was when you said that the full size link bar and the model link bar are the same. The full size link bar had revolute joints in it. That means that they only have 1° of freedom which is rotation. That’s it.
The model link bar had spherical joints at each end, which means each one of them has 3° of freedom (rotation about X, Y and Z) The full-size link bar can create a planer mechanism whereas the model link bar will inevitably take your mechanism into a spatial realm. This means that your axle will eventually be able to move side to side and not just up and down.
Great explanation
Thank you Richie!
New to the channel love it very informative and well presented keep them coming
Thank you!! I will. 🍻
Damn great video. Very exceptional training skills. Thank you,
Thank you for your time, Joel!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
My pleasure my friend!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for your time and eyeballs, my friend! 🙏
During my year long search for an LS460, it had to meet the following criteria:
- clean
- low miles
- never driven in salt (not a Michigan car)
- Long wheel base model
- StarFire White
- light color interior
- RWD ( not 4WD)
- Since I’m not a fab guy and dont want to pay huge bills at the Lexus dealer….NON AIRBAG CAR !
Haha! Two VERY good choices on the regular suspension and 2wd. The air struts can be swapped out with regular ones but it still would’ve been pricey.
Awesome Video Eric! This along with @scrapingpavement video about the size of the notch is awesome too. I can’t wait for the next video. Plus I have been reading Max Fish’s book “Air Suspension Design Vol 1 and it’s making a huge impact on me for how things really are!
Thanks again!
Thank you! Honored to be mentioned in the same comment as some of the greats. Long before his book, Fish definitely played a role in a lot of the knowledge I have today and has always been willing to answer my questions.
Finally a good video on the subject 👍🏻
I appreciate your kind words. There’s more on the way!
@@GarageFab Awesome!
Poly is great for making Door panels like For a 1951 Bullet Nose . We used the same material to lay out matching clips to existing Holes .
Mylar works well for small parts it Clear .
It’s a whole new world
Rapture Very Soon
I’ll give it a shot!
Brother I've watched all of your videos, subscribed, and then realized you haven't put out a new video in months. Have you stopped? I'm bummed to think there won't be anymore.
Thank you Keith! I appreciate your time and I’m happy to have you aboard. You popped in at a weird time. Life got too busy to create videos for a while, but I’m back at it. The next video is in production as we speak and should be out pretty soon. I’ve also got SO many plans! There’s 4 or 5 unique vehicle builds and bunch of short form fabrication tips and tricks to fill the gaps between long form videos.
Don’t be bummed. I’ll see you soon. Cheers!
I sure found this video interesting. Big thumbs up I wanna know more !
Thank you! There’s more in the making!
Great video, thanks for sharing
Anytime, John.
Poly - you can cut with scissors, very Easy to work with uni -bit Happy🥳🤔👏🏻👏🏻😃
But can it make my Uni bits happy after I’ve already made them unhappy?
You just pinpointed an issue i have struggled with since i was a child and i don’t think i ever realized exactly what it is.
Asking and wanting to know why.
Right?! I don’t what point we stopped asking why. Maybe after our parents said it was annoying. I think this is why I failed so miserably in school. There wasn’t much focus on the reason for things.
@@GarageFab Yup!! In order to finish high school i had to redo math from pre-algebra. Thankfully i was able to find a college professor that insisted on explaining “why” for everything, and multiple methods to every problem. With his instruction i really excelled. And it’s something that I’ve started to enjoy about the welding and fabrication community is a lot of people are like minded and if you ask why, a lot of them are ready to explain. Some won’t, and i almost assume it’s because they don’t know why and they’re just doing what they were told to do.
@@bigzoffroad Our histories are shockingly similar.
damn wish these videos were up then i was still in school 6 years back would have made a world of difrence keep up the good work
Better late than never? Thank you my friend! 🙏
Brother in your book you are a God in this area. You may have covered this and I apologize. But I have a 71 gmc c10 that I put 4in drop coils in the rear and 2.5 in drop spindles in the front. The root of my question lies with the fact I have a two piece drive shaft. For my calculations am I purely only using the block/tranny ,the drive shaft at the rear ended and the pinion at the rearend. Does the forward drive shaft not come into play? Thank you for your time. I’m a HUGE FAN!!
Thank you for the kind words my friend. Certainly NOT a God in any way.
Have you already seen my driveshaft video?
THE Driveshaft Video. The Nature of U Joints. Suspension Basics Ep. 06
ruclips.net/video/YgNZfIR-8Ng/видео.html
I don’t remember discussing two piece shafts in that video but the basics are still necessary to understand the advice I’m about to give…
You will more or less be IGNORING your trans/crank angle. Instead, you’ll be matching your pinion angle to the first section of driveshaft. (Shaft inside the differential will be parallel to the first drive shaft at the transmission)
Ideally your front shaft will be about 1° up or down in relation to your transmission angle. 1° away from a straight U joint will keep the needle bearings and grease in the joint moving, preventing premature wear.
So an example of a good set up would be Engine/trans is that 3° down, first section of driveshaft is at 2° down, and your pinion angle is at 2° up.
Very well done
Thank you! Cheers!
Really good!
Thank you Larry! You are appreciated. 🙏
Thanks for this info!
Scott!!! You’re welcome. Check back soon. There will be more. 🍻
GREAT VIDEO, JUST SUBSCRIBED THANKS
Thank you Mike!! See you around. Cheers!
Excellent
Thank you, Nicholas!
Thank you buddy!! I'm a 💯 DIY i will love to learn the basics..
Right on, Ruben! Thank you!
I’m not sure you realise that you’re a natural born presenter. Or maybe you do. Not only is your content super high quality, you also presented and produced it in a way that’s accessible and fun. And you should have way more views. Shared!
I appreciate the kind words! At the time this video was filmed, no, I would not have considered myself any type of presenter/teacher. The comments have changed that a little and have given me some fuel to continue.
I have always been a slow learner. I require visuals and a firm understanding if the underlying and often overlooked ‘why’, or knowledge just doesn’t stick with me. So I wanted to share information the way I would want to learn it.
The numbers are rising! We’re getting there. Thank you again! 🙏
Thanks so much brother
My pleasure. Thank you for your time. 🙏
Thank you!
My pleasure, Adam.
Thank you
My pleasure my friend, thank you for watching.
Always keep 1/32
Polycarbonate in the Shop
(Clear )allows you to see all Holes
Then you Can cut to fit
Then Do your Torch Deduct
Good advice. Ironically, I use overhead projector film while doing upholstery for the same reason. Never considered using it in fab work. Thank you, Earl!
Awesome tutorial!!
Where did you find the miniature bars? Or did you make them?
I’d love to have a set.
wow what a smart guy
Haha! Thank you Roger.
This is fantastic ive finally found the info ive been lookin for, finally someone who also asks why instead of doing it cause someone said so, one quick question does this info transfer over to 4x4/lifted 4 link suspensions aswell?
The basics, absolutely! I’d be lying if I told you I knew how well each setup performed off road. But it’s pretty certain you’re going to need to deal with drive shafts, pinion angles and the geometry needed to make everything work.
I can tell you that triangulated 4 links are a popular choice for both trophy trucks and rock crawlers. I’ve seen parallel 4 links on mall crawlers but who the heck knows if those can actually crawl anything.
Thank you for the kind words my friend! 🙏
@@GarageFab thx for the info, these videos have taught me more then the hours of useless research has, thank you
Haha! My pleasure my man!
I can totally relate on the point of nobody explaining the “why.” I have to understand the “why” also before i can move ahead with anything. For example: i can’t for the life of me find on the internet or from people the answer to the question “Why use a 4 link for a street truck rather than a leaf spring setup”. There are tons of vids of guys installing 4 links for off road, for lowering, and for regular street use, but nobody ever says why! It’s just assumed it’s better. Meanwhile, there is a huge contingent of guys that swear by leafs, and say 4 link is a waste of money. They can’t explain why either, just vague statements like “ride quality”. What does that really mean? I’m building a ‘72 Bronco from ground up. Clean slate. I an a very aggressive street driver. I like to drive, corner, brake, and accelerate fast. Which is better for that, 4 link or leafs? WHY? I dunno. Thanks for all you do!
So, what this pointed out to me that i have overlooked is a watts link will actually be pulled sideways ( toward the front of the vehicle) as the suspension travels up and down.
You are not wrong. The same goes for a panhard bar. It’s not much though. Depending on how much travel you have in your system, the forward and back motion might be somewhere between 1 to 1.5 inches. I generally use heim joints in my watts links for this reason but regular polyurethane bushings can flex enough as well.
Just install your watts link with this in mind. Find where half of the forward and bed rearward axle positions are and mount the center link of the watts link there to cut the total movement in half.
@@GarageFab so, you want to get the longest panhard/watts link to minimize arch and swing both ways. that way the deflection will be absorb in the bushings
I’d agree to that.
Sub'd. Keep it up, very clear explanations. Thanks for posting.
Thank you, boots! You are appreciated. 🙏
Thank you for this mini-series on links. This is the part of air ride suspension that confuses me the most. Will you explain if and why a reverse 4 link is bad for daily driven trucks? I want to design a link system for my Mazda b2200 xtra cab that doesn't require relocation of my fuel tank if I can.
Haha! I most certainly will but it might be a awhile until I get there. Until then I'll give you some bits and pieces. I'm strongly anti-reverse link. There are several reasons, ranging from drive shafts pulling out of the transmission to traction and braking issues. If you have some time look up "solid axle death wobble". It's a common issue with Jeeps and some other vehicles with solid front axles. If you read for a while you'll find there are many "remedies" but no one can agree on one. "Tires, shocks, alignment, suspension joints"
One thing they all have in common; forward facing link bars. I've also heard of similar wobbles in reverse link mini trucks. Lastly have you ever seen semi truck skid marks? They often appear to look like dotted lines because of wheel hop. Interestingly it's only one axle on these trucks that hops consistently. One of the rear axles is connected with rearward facing link bars and one axle has forward facing bars. Guess which one hops.
The fuel tank relocation is the most common reason people opt for reverse four link but it's really not as challenging as it seems. If you can weld links bar mounts you can make some tank mounts. Then extending some fuel lines and a few wires and you're done.
If you insist on keeping the tank, perhaps we can come up with a three link design with watts link or panhard bar that would work for you. You got this. Thank you!
I'm a little late to the party, but thanks so much for this series of videos - I'm fabbing a triangulated 4 link for a V8-swapped 1979 RX7, using a T-5 trans and 8.8" Ford rear end. Made a parallel 4 link setup with Panhard bar, ran it in Lemons races the last 2 years and it worked well but wanted to try something new, so... Next race is in about a month, so we'll see. BTW, I've been using the Triaged 4 link calculator from Dan Barcroft to check the geometry - do you have another recommendation for that? Regardless, REALLY learned a lot from your suspension video series, and enjoyed the others as well. THANK YOU!!!
Never too late! Thank you Daniel. 🙏
You said all the right words to get my happy juices flowing. (Ew) 4 link, Old car, V8, manual trans… I’m excited to see your project.
I’m not familiar with the calculator you mentioned, but still I recommend you use it! My knowledge will only get you a suspension that works without binding or breaking, with proper pinion angle regardless of suspension travel. When it comes to racing and superior traction, I can only share the basics. I simply don’t have the experience needed to understand geometry at a racing level.
Best of luck my friend, and stay safe.
I'm planning on installing a four link on a 60 Buick Electra. The body is currently off of the frame which I thought would make life easier to measure/install/weld. But since I don't have the body to determine my final ride height I'm wondering how I can determine that.
I'm using the factory rear differential which has a panhard bar.
If I remove the factory coil springs and set the diff where the panhard bar is level would that be close to factory ride height?
Any help is appreciated.
Great presentation!
Your videos are very helpful. I wish I had a shop teacher like you in highschool.
Thank you TJ!
Body off is definitely the way to go. It creates some challenges and unfortunately math is involved but overall the build will be much easier!
The Electra is a super cool car. I can’t wait to see where you go with it. What are your full plans for the suspension? Will it be adjustable height? Lowered but static? I ask because most of the time you don’t need to know factory height. You get to make it all up as you go.
But yes, assuming the vehicle was built with modern principles in mind, if the panhard bar is level with the ground (parallel with the axle) that should be the factory ride height.
Unless you’re building a static height vehicle and you know you want it 4 inches lower than it was, factory height shouldn’t matter.
More important things to know would be how far the frame hangs below the rocker panels. (If any), and where on the frame the center of the rear wheel opening is located. (If the axle is still mounted on the frame, it’s usually a safe assumption the axle was already centered)
My final ride heights on static vehicles are based solely on the height of the frame rails, taking into consideration anything hanging below them like crossmembers or transmissions. Never the body. Usually on smaller vehicles, 2-3 inches. A longer car might be a bit different if you don’t want to scrape every driveway.
This was my attempt at vomiting answers at a question I didn’t fully understand. If I missed the mark lemme know. I’ll try again.
Thanks for the response
Originally I was going to use 2" lowering coil springs in the stock location. The four link brackets will need to be located on the axle near their location..... so I'm thinking coilovers.
3" lowering springs up front with factory suspension components. I've never been a fan of the ride quality on bagged cars. Plus all if the components and plumbing associated.
As for the frame, it hangs below the rockers 2.5". The cross members, oil pan and transmission will be above frame rail bottoms. Exhaust will be a mother to get routed all the way to the back, but that's another enjoyable dilemma for another time.
Hopefully I gave you some good info??
Thanks
And happy Thanksgiving to you and yours
Don’t know if you have seen or heard about Weber auto RUclips channel
However your presentations are comparable with Professor John Kelly at Weber auto RUclips channel very informative, concise easy to follow and understand we do appreciate
Watched again thks
How are things, Peter?
@@GarageFab great getting things done
That’s what I like to here!
Leaning more than i know because building my first bagged truck
I got a static drop 01 ram 1500 that I’m about to bag in my garage and I’m literally clueless in suspensions I really never got into it when dealing with cars but I have been a car enthusiast since before I was even allowed to turn one on. Just watching a couple of your videos I’ve learn quiet a bit and feel more confident on taking on this project but I do have a couple questions is there a way I can contact you
That’s what I like to hear, Carlos. There’s nothing you can’t do. I’d be happy to try and guide you through it the best I can. You can hit me up here, Instagram DMs @GarageFab, or email GarageFab702@gmail.com
Great video! Where I can buy that mini link bar?
Thank you! Amazon. I can’t find the ones that I purchased, but these are similar!
amzn.to/3SZNOj3
MIGHTY MAX GANG!!!!!
*Throws up the “Double M” gang sign*
I have a 2005 Jeep tj w a 4.5 inch long arm lift … I keep busting the rear control arm bolts both upper and lower???
Everything looks ok then a bump or noise lets me know something is broke !!!
Any advice for me would be greatly appreciated thanks
Can you explain why some install the parallel 4 link on the inside of the frame rails and other install it on the outside of the frame rails? Is one better than the other ?
I’ll answer in reverse order. Mounting link bars as close to the wheels as possible provides more axle stability. Therefore mounting link bars on the outside of the frame is generally better. Imagine, if you can, the bench press at the gym. With your hands positioned close to the weights, you’ll have far more control of the bar than you would if you put your hands closer together. Using this comparison, hopefully you can see how wider set bars can limit abnormal motions of an axle. Mounting bars closer to the wheels also put less stress on the axle tube if you’re mounting springs/bags on the link bars.
So why doesn’t everybody position their link bars on the outside of the frame? The factory design of the frame has a lot to do with it. Two excellent real world examples are the 70s Chevy C10 and the Mitsubishi Mighty Max. The C10 has a fairly narrow frame with LOTS of room for bars on the outside of the frame. In fact the leaf springs are originally mounted on the outside of the frame.
On the other hand, the Mightymax frame rails are built in very close proximity to the wheels. The leaf springs are mounted under the frame. There is absolutely no room for link bars on the outside. The only options are to either mount the bars inside, or cut the frame off and build it from scratch so that you can mount the bars closer to the wheels. Most commonly people choose the easier option.
Let me know what you think!
@@GarageFab Thank you very much for your explanation. This was very helpful and easy to articulate. I love the simplicity you use in your video's for the garage DIYer's such as myself. I look forwarding to watching more and learning along the way. Thank you and keep up the great work!!!!
Thank you my friend! I appreciate your words and appreciate your time even more. See you around! 🍻
Aaron - put your knowledge into book format also culminate these tutorials to DVD
I’d prefer VHS if you don’t mind.
By wild chance do you know anyone that makes an 1" or 2" extended upper ball joint for the Mitsu that will allow more suspension travel? I enjoy your videos as always...
I don’t at the moment. People I’ve used in the past don’t make them anymore. If you’re in a pinch you can partially cut the upper control arms where they flip up and bend them down straight, and plate the bottom. That’s got me by several times. If you’re not in a hurry I’ll be making a custom control arm video sometime in the next few months.
I know this video is old but do you have advice on a 1956 4 door chevy for on back air ride suspension watch from the beginning going to build the watts link just like you going try to follow what you did 9:51