This is probably the best math lesson I’ve ever learned, incredibly simple and easy to understand but also gives pretty much everything you need to know to build one yourself from scratch. My absolute respect. I’m planning on putting my 2002 3500 on air and will most definitely be referring to this video
Thank you, Austin! That means a lot since I can’t really math to save my life. I’m excited to see your project. Hit me up anytime and I’ll help if I can. I appreciate you my man! Cheers
As a machinist, high school math nerd ( understanding the interaction of arcs and angles) I have long appreciated the brilliance of the Watts linkage. The piece seldom menthoned, the FACT that a panhard bar, at extreme deflection, turns the rear end into an uninteded stearing device. Excellent explanation of a complicated, yet simple, device. Thank you. Well done. Flagg
The knowledge you have is out of this world. You’re like a doctor for car modifications. The way you explain everything is so clear and your mini examples make understanding the concepts so much easier. This is my new favorite channel. I’m about to binge watch all your videos
Men do I like falling on some quality youtube. This is 110% the kind of content we need.. and im not just talking about suspension but the way you make your video. Thumbs up this is awesome
One of those rare times I subscribe after a single video. Even though I already know how a Watts link works, I didn't feel insulted by your explanation of it. And you went into some details that I didn't know. Plus your fab work is absolutely top notch. Understanding the importance of a double shear mount instead of saying "good 'nuff" like some of the more shadetree channels would do was a massive boost to your credibility. But the icing on the cake was the whole spiel with the tooth. That was just pure gold. My gift, in return for the information and entertainment you provided, is to mention the "Mumford link". It's sometimes referred to as a "modified Watts" link. It offers a few advantages over the basic Watts; 1) It puts both frame brackets at the same height, eliminating the long, bendy bracket on one side of the Watts. This has obvious advantages for ground clearance as well. 2) It allows you to adjust the roll center by changing the angles of the main bars. 3) It can, in theory, allow you to put everything out of the way of the diff cover for easier maintenance. It's definitely more complicated than a Watts. And I can't swear it would work well on a long-travel vehicle. But it is very much worth a bit of research. One more tidbit that many don't know-- both the Watts and the Mumford can have their pivotty bits mounted horizontally. You could have put that entire thing between the frame rails with the propeller mounted on top of the diff. Though I don't think that would be optimal since the pivot point would have to handle the articulation of the axle.
John… That was a tremendous amount of words. Out of all of them, the phrase I appreciate most was “Pivotty bits.” I can’t even type it without laughing. I was once familiar with the Mumford link but have forgotten about it. I remember it being a magical dance of moving parts. I will certainly have to look that up again. I’m clearly misunderstand your point on the horizontal mounting of the pivotty bits. I’m likely misinterpreting your statement as the whole watts link system on it’s side, but that most certainly won’t work. If you could clarify, I’d be insanely grateful. Thank you for the kind words, John! Glad to have you. 🙌
@@GarageFab you interpret it correctly, the whole kit on its side. All the geometry works exactly the same. It does require an extra bit of flexibility at the axle pivot though. I've never seen it in use. I can't swear it's practical. And since the roll center of a Watts is at the pivot point that would create an absurdly high roll center. So it's probably more an interesting bit of trivia than a useful tip.
So I have heard of mounting a Watts Link system in front of the axle instead of link bars. (It was a theory at least. I haven’t been able to design it in my head) But a Watts link prevents side to side motion by pushing and pulling on its bars. By mounting the Watts on its side, it would then prevent up and down movement and only allow side to side motion. So I still believe I’m misunderstanding something. 🧐
@@GarageFab With the propeller horizontal it will still rotate as the arms push on it. And the arms will still push in opposite directions as the axle moves. Try it with your scale model. Just stand it on its end and move the axle up and down.
Ok, I’ve thought about this for practically a whole day simply not getting it. But now I think I know what I was misunderstanding. You said the “pivotty bits” would be horizontal. I interpreted that as tipping the entire watts link system in it’s end. But you meant the propeller could be mounted like a helicopter prop, but the bars would remain horizontal. The bars would then be on the same plane but one would be a bit FORWARD of the other. Given this epiphany, yes, I’d agree this would work properly. Also it wouldn’t necessarily have to be on top of the diff. It could still be behind the axle with a cleverly designed pair of bars bridging the diff. It would certainly take up more room behind the axle but it could have prevented my design from needing frame tabs that hang down 6 inches. My brain is fried now thanks, John. 😳
I have to say your sense of humor and mine are the same. Ive been a welder for years and a self taught mechanic with a fat case of OCD so everything I do, I do as perfect as possible or it will drive me insane and I have learned a shit ton from you. Your little short cuts here and there are things that will save me years of thought, worry, and obsession and I have to tell you thank you very much for making these videos and for your experience in fabrication. You're honestly one of my favorite youtubers and one of 2 Fabricators I watch. The other is Make it Custom. He is such a great Fabricator like you. You should check his stuff out. Again thank you.
You and I are indeed the same, Benjamin. I was fired from my only fabrication job for doing “too good of work.” That was their gentle way of telling me I was taking way too long on utility trucks that nobody cared about. OCD is a bitch… but I think it can also be a blessing. Some people don’t have the patience to focus on the details and we don’t have a choice. I’ve been watching Karl Fisher for almost as long as he’s been doing RUclips and it’s been magical watching his rapid success. It’s well deserved. I secretly wish we could collaborate on something some day but them Canadians are so dang far away. But I have SEMA in my home town so, maybe. Thank you for the kind words, Benjamin. This might be one of the few comments I print and frame to help keep me motivated. Cheers my friend! 🍻
Wow. I dig your methods. I have been a builder/fabricator for many years but I always learn something. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep moving forward!
Just found your channel and gotta say? Great! Hats off to you for what you build but mostly for the clarity of explanation you give during build! Impressive and entertaining! Love it!
Just want to give you a huge thank you. You showed your stand for your axle you made and made a comment about building something similar for bumpers in the past. Well I'm building a bumper for an off-road 4runner and was wondering how I was going to get it on and off with a winch. You inspired me to make a similar stand and it worked like a charm. Again thank you for your videos, they have helped me figure things out in my limited space.
I’ve been trying to understand a watts link for a few years now. You my man! Explained it perfect! Thank you. Definitely subscribed. Keep up the good work
First time on this channel and may I say that you have a gift for teaching that is rarely seen. I am 67 and completely enjoyed your tutorial, with the possible exception of your tooth (LOL). Tough to find one person who has the knowledge AND can express it to others without overloading their brains or boring them to sleep. Thank you for this video.
Love your channel, your sense of humor and knowledge are the perfect combination. You are honest and not afraid to poke fun at yourself. Thank you for such great content. I am happy to see how the truck is going, what a great build.
Another video gem! When you put that bolt and bush through the diff plate, I thought "big error", but great fix with support bracket. Faith reinstated. Great job.🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
How did I miss this episode?!?! I know I tease you but it because I truly respect you and your skills! That was by far the best explanation of a Watts Link I think I’ve ever seen!?
This is a very informative video to those who are not super knowledgeable on fabricating suspension components. I installed a watts link on a 81 c10 shortbed. It was the first time I installed one back in 1999. I was already familiar with them because my uncle raced stock cars and alot of old-school stock cars had watts links. They are really not as complicated as some think.
This video is fantastic, you got a gift for teaching. Anybody watching that is afraid of CAD tools though - don't be afraid of it, it's just another tool to learn. There are 100% free CAD programs available too that are just fine for building stuff like this. Recommend everybody give it a try, there's free tutorials on youtube. Once you spend a weekend giving it a go, CAD drawings become just as second nature as whipping out a pencil and paper. You can learn it for free and use it for free, and once you learn it you gain an incredible new toolset.
“I’m a big fan of watts links. I like them, I use them, I have a little one. I keep it in a jar on top of my refrigerator. I’d like to put more in that jar. That’s where you come in.”
I just wanted to say thanks!! Im 21 and kinda grew up in the lowrider / minitruck scene. I found a 92 mazda b22 with only 82k miles. I want to bag it. So i started asking questions and everybody would just say do this but not actually explain how or why it works. but thanks to you i know now what i need to do and why it works
I can’t answer that one. It’s going to take time to build a sight and design said merch. Right now I’m spending all my free time on videos! I figure that’s probably the right thing to be focusing on at the moment. Maybe I can hire someone to do all that. 🤔
Getting ready to Start my dream build . 49 GMC truck sitting on a 73 chevy frame. I'm really considering doing this set up. Or I should say trying to build this setup. Fantastic video. Explanation was spot on thank you very much.
I don’t have merch, but if I ever do I’m considering tooth shaped suckers or velvet ring boxes with a tooth mounted inside for licking. Opinions? Thank you, Tyler! You are greatly appreciated. 🙏 🍻
Very informative and debunking the myths. Also you can always use links on current model diffs and upgrade axles and centres. Or use y rear end setup like the series 2 Jag or the Aussie commodore or falcon rear.
That said, I think it would’ve been fine the TPI engine I had. I think it was just laziness. By the time I came across a spare Jag subframe, the 4 link rear suspension was already done and didn’t want to redo anything. 🤷♂️
That’s a swamp cooler. It’s a life saver. The only time I recall talking about not having A/C was at my buddy Keith’s shop during the C10 Suspension build with temps in the triple digits. The swamp cooler is nice but it’s so loud that I can’t run it while filming, which is most of the time! I’m looking forward to one day having a shop with actual A/C that can’t be heard on camera.
For anyone who wants to use a watts link and handling is the primary goal remember that the rear roll center height is determined by the Watts link pivot point height. If I remember right the rear roll center height for a panhard bar is the height at which the bar connects to the axle.
I agree 100% on the Watts Link roll center. The panhard bar roll center (assuming it’s set up properly) is in the center of the panhard bar. Which means the roll center height varies if the suspension height changes. I do not know this as fact. But I would be shocked to find out THE most common axle locating device puts a vehicle’s roll center on the far left or far right side. That would induce some really strange handling characteristic! You are appreciated. 🙏
Fantastic videos bro, I’m a mustang guy but love watching you fabricate. You’re hitting all the right notes, from how you’re measuring to using card stock and wood to layout the parts. Keep up the great work!
Thank you my friend! I too am a Mustang guy! I’ve got a New Edge with a blown head gasket at the moment. Hope to get that straightened out shortly. Thank you! See you in the next? 🍻
@@GarageFab I’ve got a fox I’m into a full on resto on, will definitely employ a lot of your tips. Lots of fab to do before I though it back together. Works challenge subframes, trans cross member mounts, little rust repair and some strut tower frame rail work.
Glad to have found Austin's channel. Very well explained lay out without talking over our heads. I love learning when the teacher explains it so fun and interesting. Thanks for all your insights
I did a watts link on my old 96 ranger back in 2002 when the mini truck Bible (minitrucken mag) was still around . One of the important things is to remember is the chassis brace between the bar mounts. Also I inverted my setup with the bars mounted two the axle and the watts link in the bed.
Hey Aaron,. I live in 'Vegas too and I'm building a street/dirt/rock crawling truck so have no use for a watts link, but your videos are so interesting and informative that i watched all of the Watts Link Tutorials just because. Now i have to watch your other vids. Nice job.
Yes! 🙌 Much appreciated my friend! We’re in town (or out of town) can you crawl rocks? I’ve got a future project that will certainly need some gnarly terrain. Cheers!!
I'm more into off road suspension. BUT.......this is the best tutorial of building a suspension I've ever seen. Now I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate it into other stuff....a lock, ...a ....
Wow ! I had no idea how all this suspension actually works .. & at first was over whelmed ..lol But due to how you present it in a way I can grasp it's function & why .. I am not so worried about actually doing it ! My project is actually very simple sense I am not building a vehicle that's going to rock crawl ... lol just a tiny short wheel based 4x4 Suzuki samurai custom pick up .. to go to town in .. with no rear box beyond the cab just a tiny flat bed , leaf springs go beyond the rear frame so I am building a 4 link top triangulated suspension just like what you taught me .. sense I went back to the first video & learned how it works & what i need to do to make it all work properly ... the travel up & down won't be far from ride height .. Knowing now what to make sure of & why is extremely important ..it make sense now .. with out your Knowledge I was headed for trouble for sure .. it was way over my head .. thank you for building my confidence with basic know how eliminating my ignorance level ... I really think I can do this !
No better compliment has ever been made, Lee. Thank you for that. Putting power in people’s hands is my main goal. If you get stuck during the build, you know where to find me. Best of luck my friend!
Great video. I learned a bunch about it.... My '05 Crown Vic Interceptor has a Watts Link. Am wanting to up grade the Trailing Arms and Watts Link. Now I somewhat understand what's going on back there. Thanks.
Although I am not interested in car building, I learned from your explanation of the Watts linkage how the Watts linkage works on a BEAM type stationary steam engine...of which I intend to design and build a model of. Thank
Excellent! I love hearing how things are used outside the car scene! I thought I read that the Watts link was originally designed for use on the Steam engine. I assumed they were referring to the railway sort. Now I’m not so sure! 🤔 Best of luck, Marvin!
Bro, not sure if you will read this as its 2 years old, but such a great video, I just found this and your channel , and will be binging more! God Bless
Thank you my man! I’d love the challenge of trying to make a Watts link work on a crawler. There’s not usually a lot of room for articulation. I’ve got some ideas though. 🤔 I appreciate you. 🙏
@@GarageFab I've seen long bar attempts on two jeeps and they failed horribly. One tried making the pinion arm long but it extended so far below the axle it made it useless. lol
I recently learned that you can mount the pinion vertically (like a helicopter propeller) and it still operates as it should. You could potentially mount it on top of the axle. All the ground clearance in the world.
@23:35 sometimes windage is good. When I do brackets, I tack one on, then remove the other bracket and weld both sides of one bracket. The second bracket only gets welded one side due to the limited space of the gap. Three welds maybe better than two?
What about the angle of the dangle? Ha! Your explanations are an art in fabrication engineering and the models help rid of any confusion. From measurements to sketches these tutorials are spot on. Appreciate your content brother.
Omg! I sketched my firs watts link 10 years ago . Ifinaly got around to building it after a couple years. i felt like a mathematician building it from scratch and designed all from that sketch . I ended up with hiems as well. During it i had to do a bunch of chemo and radiation stem cell transplant but could never find or talk to anyone that could help unscramble my brain eggs , ive been thinkin i need to make bushing for the link to frame side. 🤔 Wish u made this masterclass video ages ago. Gunna Be battling Az summer soon an ive wasted the last two winters . Its time. Cleanin grandmas garage and putin my 95 s10 fbss on the road! Again. ❤. Thanks smooth toof! Hypedhe algo brought you to me
Well, Sir, I’m happy to hear you’re alive and kicking! I don’t envy your heat. Vegas ain’t no joke, but I know it could be worse. So are you saying this watts link is done?
Bolts generally function in tension like head, main bearing and rod bearing. The pivot bolt initially was working in tension as well as "single shear". By building the outer brace, you put the bolt in "double shear". This removes the bending force off the bolt and at least doubles the shear force required to shear the bolt.
Have seen a Watts Link design that had both bars coming off of the same side of the frame. It was on a Sprint car that i had the pleasure of helping rebuild back in 2012.
You could have two panhard bars, (For added strength perhaps) but they would have to be the same length and mounted to the same points on the chassis at the same angle. They could NOT form an X. Because the panhard swings in an arc, connecting a second one reversed would create two opposing arcs and the suspension would simply lock up. 😱
I learned about the Watt's link before there were videos. My learning came from something called a "book." This "book" thing was lots of sheets of paper all attached together, like a big stack of them, so they would stay in order, with a cover to protect them. It had printed words and illustrations - really nice drawings - and also photographs. You could put this "book" on a shelf and refer back to it whenever you wanted, no computer needed. I had "books" (and still do) about all sorts of stuff. Really awesome retro information that still applies to mechanical principles.
You completely lost me at ‘stack of papers with words’ but got me back with ‘illustrations and pictures.’ Did these “books” have links to educational motion pictures? I gotta get me one of these. But before I do… What’s a shelf?
I just learned more watching two videos that I did I high school lol. Great content. Looking forward to learning more and love the cardboard design. Just how my dad built many projects. GW
The stress you were trying to avoid on the center bolt is called "cantilever stress". By building the 'housing' that supports the bolt at both ends, the bolt is now in "Sheer". You can consider that bolt infinitely strong! The only point of stress, is the bracket welded to the frame, to anchor the lower link. That bracket receives the most "cantilever" stress, in the whole system. It could even twist the frame rail. That would be the most likely point of failure, if you slide side-ways into a curb. Having the upper and lower links invert, is called "camming over". I never thought about creating the "Z" to increase up-down travel. When I built my model, I just simply set the 'propeller' on the vertical, and made sure it was big enough, that it never could get close to "camming over" within the travel of the rear suspension on my Chevrolet Caprice station wagon. I built it, because I HATED the jounce steer caused by a relatively short pan hard bar, from the factory. (The factory pan hard bar was set level at resting height. The car was equipped with air-shocks, to allow adjustment for different loads.
Thank you for taking the time to write all that, Vincent! Good info is always appreciated. 👏 If I’m being honest, if there was any curb smacking, I imagine it would have yank that 8 inch frame tab clean off. Also that might trigger be a divorce. 😳
You gave me a brainstorm on what i'm trying to do with my ten wheeler custom truck. Running a driveshift from the front rearend to the back rearend Thanks. Medicineman
Your suspension tutorials are really helpful. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram with a rusted out frame but the engine and trans are great. I am going to build my own frame and suspension to go for a ratrodish/daily driver theme. I will be keeping my computer close by to refresh my memory. Thanks and God Bless you.
That’s what I like to hear, Leroy! Thank you for the kind words ands I can’t wait to see what you make of the Ram. Sounds like an awesome project. I’m always around if you’ve got questions. Cheers my friend.
6 months since your last upload, I hope you don’t stop! Everything about this channel is what RUclips should be. I’m getting to begin my might max build and was excited to see a channel that was building one also. I hope all is well!
@@sabastian458 I haven’t quit yet! It just looks like it. There’s a new video coming out hopefully next Monday. I’m super excited about it. I’ll see you then! Can’t wait to see what you do with your Mighty Max! 🙌
I love seeing when someone KNOWS how to drill a hole. Seriously I see 99 wrong and this guy does it RIGHT. This guy had me hooked on the first 30sec, This is one of the few that know their shit. Thank you ManKandy.
Thank you, Eric!! I appreciate that comment about the first 30 seconds. Believe it or not, that’s been a big focus of mine and if you look at older videos, the intros were far too long. Thank you again for your words. I appreciate you. 🙌
Found your channel while searching about link bars... You sir have a professional take to all you create/do. Your videos are educational, fun to watch and very well edited and narrative is excellent! Looking forward to your next videos!
It’s super easy. Looks like you already got an account! Just film something and click the upload button! Be warned, it takes 3 times as long to complete a simple task when you decide to film it. 🤦🏻♂️ But thank you! Replying to every message is a goal of mine. With any luck, there will be a time when I’m so overrun by comments that I simply cannot reply to all. But hopefully by then people realize that I care and I’m not just ignoring them. 🤷♂️
Love your channel. I’m adapting your suspension insights to a lowered Volvo 122 with a custom frame, parallel 4link rear and Mustang II front end. Just goes to show that knowledge can be applied in many different directions. Keep it up, dude!
Yes!!! 🙌 I can’t wait to see what you do with it. I’ve honestly never heard of a 122. I had to look it up. I’m thrilled with what I saw. Best of luck my man! Thank you, Jay. 🙏
You could calculate the ideal propeller length by making it so when the suspension bottoms out, it still has a bit of travel left before banding into the 2 links. And when the suspension is at max travel that the propeller is still a bit away from having any of the 2 links in a 90 degree angle with the propeller (in which case it could flip over).
Make sure you make some drainage holes in the bottom of the factory cover. Oil will makes its way through the bolt hole and then get trapped between the covers, lowering your oil level in the diff. Alternatively, seal up the bolt hole if you have the space. The cover/link looks KILLER by the way! Keep up the good work.
@@GarageFab just make sure they're not it a position where the gear will sling oil into the drainage holes, taking away from it's intended destination lol. Maybe a couple small ones towards the sides. Just big enough to let the oil back into the diff
I stumbled upon ur chanell found out wat vibration on my L S powered lowered 67 c 10 is aren't equal .I guessed it when I built it by eye .love this guy .than I s for sharing. God bless yall real good.
You read my mind... I was just wondering if the pan par was mounted on the center of the axle would it move as much and BAM💥 you did it for us! Love the content man.
Woot! 🙌 I think as a rule of thumb, all link bars should be as long as they can possibly be to prevent unwanted moment. Thank you, Richard! I appreciate you.
Nice, very nice Aaron! I noticed on mine since the propeller is the rear pivot point it works the front suspension harder because of throwing the weight it lightens the inside tire. But, as you know I did mine off the frame and I'm thinking a rear sway bar. On a side note I just purchased a used Syclone intake, exhaust manifolds, turbo, intercooler. I can't use the intake or plenum but just the Mitsubishi turbo was 1200 eight years ago. Am I stoked. YES. I had to tell someone! And yes, you do great work, funny and you teach everyone.
I only vaguely remember your Watts. I kinda wish I could see it again! I also want to see this Syclone setup!! Do you have an Instagram? Or are you posting on Facebook? As always, Thank you my friend. 🙏
@@GarageFab thanks for the videos man. You got me convinced to do a watts link and 4 link on my datsun. I think i will try a reverse 4 link so i can still keep my fuel tank and exhaust.
Great video for the garage punters good effort There is a thing called roll Center which involves this linkage and can be made adjustable with a watts by moving the Center pivot up or down this is a thing in some solid axle race cars made screw remote adjustable maybe to complicated for this audience or maybe worth doing a video on it Keep up the good work 👍
Oooo! That sounds neat. Complicated is my middle name. And so is Learning. (I have several middle names) I can’t think of a better way to actually be able to EXPERIENCE high vs low roll centers. Being able to adjust it instantly in the same vehicle would definitely do the trick. I have plans to build an actual running driving truck that has the ability to quickly swap between several rear suspension designs for road testing videos. I hope to remember this when that day comes. Thank you my friend!
Thank you, Heidi! I think I’ve gotta take a break on the Mighty Max for a minute. Keith needs my assistance and I’ve promised those peeps a driveshaft video. 😬 So who knows which will be next. 🤷♂️
If the link bars are mounted at the same height to the chassis, at approximately axle tube Centerline, and their inner end is at diff vertical Centerline when the diff is at max travel. Then the propeller can be vertical at travel limits and maximum degree from vertical at mid travel/ ride height. This prevents hangups of lower slung mounts and propeller in 4x4 situations.
@@GarageFab Hey, I've seen a setup which I thought had been done how I described, but I just modeled it in linkage, and again in GIM and I can't make it work. There must've been other components I missed. My apologies. Hopefully I see the Jeep again to discover how it was done.
It would be great to see how the watts link works on your model at locations other than the center of the diff cover, for instance above the differential and more forward ect. Great information. Rarely do I find someone that makes a effort to educate the viewer. Keep up the good work.
I just wrote an essay response to this and lost it. So sorry for the shortness resulting from my frustration. The roll center for the rear suspension (the point at which a vehicle body rotates in a turn) is located at the pivot of the ‘propeller’. So by changing the height of the watts link, you’re also changing the roll center of the rear suspension. This can change the way a vehicle handles. Moving it further forward would be difficult because the driveshaft is in the way. You can, however, turn the propeller on its side (to resemble a helicopter propeller rather than an airplane propeller) and it will still work. This would allow you to move it on top of or in front of the differential. In fact I think it’s the Mercury Marauder and the Ford… I am spacing on the name… the police car! That have the Watts link mounted diagonally to the front/top of the differential. Moving it forward or back shouldn’t change much of anything that I can think of. 🤷♂️
I am building a Crown Vic circle track dirt car with the OEM watts, but I am switching the 8.8 to a floater 9". It has been challenging designing how to mount the bolt for the watts pivot and stay within the track rules. I can confirm ford has the bolt at exactly 45 degrees. I wish we were neighbors and you could visit my garage/ build. I should make a video of my challenges and send you a link. One thing I think I will be forced to do is move the bolt forward to clear the 9" center section. I would assume if I move it 2" forward of OEM, then I will just need to move the chassis points 2" forward. I have raced the same car before, but kept the 8.8. That limits your rear end ratio to 8.8 gears. Racing trans is direct drive so 5.71 is my max gear in an 8.8 which is a problem. I have so many other problems also, lol. I love your craftsmanship and I have watched this video 100 times. I can't thank you enough.@@GarageFab
Oh great! Thanks RUclips! I’m almost done with my trucks suspension using a kit that has a Panhard bar. Now I gotta change it. But, you have to admit the watts link does have a certain cool factor to it.👍 I’ll subscribe now.
Hahaha! That’s life. What are you building? The Watts link certainly is cool but usually not necessary. A panhard bar will suffice most of the time. Thank you, and pleased to have you! Welp! Sorry to ruin your day! Cheers!!
@@GarageFab I’m building a ‘68 F350 with Cummins. 2wd with twin 6k lbs air bags. Suspension kit is from Ride-tech and it’s my first build. Interesting what you said about the cover under the cover. I think you saved me some trouble.
That’s exciting! I don’t think I’ve seen many of those. I’m not really familiar with the specifics of that truck, but if you’ve got questions, feel free to ask! Good luck my friend!
This is probably the best math lesson I’ve ever learned, incredibly simple and easy to understand but also gives pretty much everything you need to know to build one yourself from scratch. My absolute respect. I’m planning on putting my 2002 3500 on air and will most definitely be referring to this video
Thank you, Austin! That means a lot since I can’t really math to save my life.
I’m excited to see your project. Hit me up anytime and I’ll help if I can.
I appreciate you my man! Cheers
Azome,that kitchen table made me hungry!! Exelen thanks 💯👍
You said Hyman joint and hole and 9inches hanging down and hard and easy!😊
🤦🏻♂️
Wow! It really IS the greatest Watts link tutorial ever. I'll probably use this on my project. Thank you.
Haha! Thank you, Clint. I can’t wait to see it! 🙌
As a machinist, high school math nerd ( understanding the interaction of arcs and angles) I have long appreciated the brilliance of the Watts linkage. The piece seldom menthoned, the FACT that a panhard bar, at extreme deflection, turns the rear end into an uninteded stearing device.
Excellent explanation of a complicated, yet simple, device.
Thank you. Well done.
Flagg
The knowledge you have is out of this world. You’re like a doctor for car modifications. The way you explain everything is so clear and your mini examples make understanding the concepts so much easier. This is my new favorite channel. I’m about to binge watch all your videos
We’ll thank you in advance for your time! I hope you get just as much value out of the rest of them. And thank you for the kind words my friend! 🍻
Men do I like falling on some quality youtube. This is 110% the kind of content we need.. and im not just talking about suspension but the way you make your video. Thumbs up this is awesome
Thank you, Francois! That means a lot to me! 🙏
yea this guy is cool af. don't know why i haven't seen this channel till just now. i mean... other than the tooth thing lmao
@DeagleBingo Thank you my friend. 🙏 No need to be jealous of my tooth. They’re available to everyone.
One of those rare times I subscribe after a single video. Even though I already know how a Watts link works, I didn't feel insulted by your explanation of it. And you went into some details that I didn't know. Plus your fab work is absolutely top notch. Understanding the importance of a double shear mount instead of saying "good 'nuff" like some of the more shadetree channels would do was a massive boost to your credibility.
But the icing on the cake was the whole spiel with the tooth. That was just pure gold.
My gift, in return for the information and entertainment you provided, is to mention the "Mumford link". It's sometimes referred to as a "modified Watts" link. It offers a few advantages over the basic Watts; 1) It puts both frame brackets at the same height, eliminating the long, bendy bracket on one side of the Watts. This has obvious advantages for ground clearance as well. 2) It allows you to adjust the roll center by changing the angles of the main bars. 3) It can, in theory, allow you to put everything out of the way of the diff cover for easier maintenance. It's definitely more complicated than a Watts. And I can't swear it would work well on a long-travel vehicle. But it is very much worth a bit of research.
One more tidbit that many don't know-- both the Watts and the Mumford can have their pivotty bits mounted horizontally. You could have put that entire thing between the frame rails with the propeller mounted on top of the diff. Though I don't think that would be optimal since the pivot point would have to handle the articulation of the axle.
John… That was a tremendous amount of words. Out of all of them, the phrase I appreciate most was “Pivotty bits.” I can’t even type it without laughing.
I was once familiar with the Mumford link but have forgotten about it. I remember it being a magical dance of moving parts. I will certainly have to look that up again.
I’m clearly misunderstand your point on the horizontal mounting of the pivotty bits. I’m likely misinterpreting your statement as the whole watts link system on it’s side, but that most certainly won’t work. If you could clarify, I’d be insanely grateful.
Thank you for the kind words, John! Glad to have you. 🙌
@@GarageFab you interpret it correctly, the whole kit on its side. All the geometry works exactly the same. It does require an extra bit of flexibility at the axle pivot though. I've never seen it in use. I can't swear it's practical. And since the roll center of a Watts is at the pivot point that would create an absurdly high roll center. So it's probably more an interesting bit of trivia than a useful tip.
So I have heard of mounting a Watts Link system in front of the axle instead of link bars. (It was a theory at least. I haven’t been able to design it in my head)
But a Watts link prevents side to side motion by pushing and pulling on its bars.
By mounting the Watts on its side, it would then prevent up and down movement and only allow side to side motion.
So I still believe I’m misunderstanding something. 🧐
@@GarageFab With the propeller horizontal it will still rotate as the arms push on it. And the arms will still push in opposite directions as the axle moves. Try it with your scale model. Just stand it on its end and move the axle up and down.
Ok, I’ve thought about this for practically a whole day simply not getting it. But now I think I know what I was misunderstanding. You said the “pivotty bits” would be horizontal. I interpreted that as tipping the entire watts link system in it’s end.
But you meant the propeller could be mounted like a helicopter prop, but the bars would remain horizontal. The bars would then be on the same plane but one would be a bit FORWARD of the other.
Given this epiphany, yes, I’d agree this would work properly. Also it wouldn’t necessarily have to be on top of the diff. It could still be behind the axle with a cleverly designed pair of bars bridging the diff.
It would certainly take up more room behind the axle but it could have prevented my design from needing frame tabs that hang down 6 inches.
My brain is fried now thanks, John. 😳
It is , indeed, the best watts link tutorial I've watched !
Absolutely the best explanation of a Watt’s Link on RUclips. Well done.
So very much appreciated, Jason! Thank you. 🙏
Cheers!
I have to say your sense of humor and mine are the same. Ive been a welder for years and a self taught mechanic with a fat case of OCD so everything I do, I do as perfect as possible or it will drive me insane and I have learned a shit ton from you. Your little short cuts here and there are things that will save me years of thought, worry, and obsession and I have to tell you thank you very much for making these videos and for your experience in fabrication. You're honestly one of my favorite youtubers and one of 2 Fabricators I watch. The other is Make it Custom. He is such a great Fabricator like you. You should check his stuff out. Again thank you.
You and I are indeed the same, Benjamin.
I was fired from my only fabrication job for doing “too good of work.” That was their gentle way of telling me I was taking way too long on utility trucks that nobody cared about. OCD is a bitch… but I think it can also be a blessing. Some people don’t have the patience to focus on the details and we don’t have a choice.
I’ve been watching Karl Fisher for almost as long as he’s been doing RUclips and it’s been magical watching his rapid success. It’s well deserved. I secretly wish we could collaborate on something some day but them Canadians are so dang far away.
But I have SEMA in my home town so, maybe.
Thank you for the kind words, Benjamin. This might be one of the few comments I print and frame to help keep me motivated.
Cheers my friend! 🍻
Wow. I dig your methods. I have been a builder/fabricator for many years but I always learn something.
Thanks for the inspiration. Keep moving forward!
That’s the only way to be my man! Never know it all, but always try to anyway. Never stop learning. Thank you brother.
You said something about mounting a bush...ing! 😂 haha, I c what u did !
Just found your channel and gotta say? Great! Hats off to you for what you build but mostly for the clarity of explanation you give during build! Impressive and entertaining! Love it!
Thank you, Billie! Happy to be of service. See you in the next?
Just want to give you a huge thank you. You showed your stand for your axle you made and made a comment about building something similar for bumpers in the past. Well I'm building a bumper for an off-road 4runner and was wondering how I was going to get it on and off with a winch. You inspired me to make a similar stand and it worked like a charm. Again thank you for your videos, they have helped me figure things out in my limited space.
Sweet! Thank you James!! That’s the entire purpose of the channel. I’m thrilled to hear someone is getting something out of it. Cheers my friend!
This is a great video, you're actually better at presenting methods of doing what needs to be done and why. Beautiful craftsmanship indeed!
Thank you, Robert. 🙏
I’ve been trying to understand a watts link for a few years now. You my man! Explained it perfect! Thank you. Definitely subscribed. Keep up the good work
Yes! Happy to be of service my friend.
I came for the 4 part series on chassis as it follows the arcs to move vertical, this bonus footage about Watts link is epic 🥇
So much appreciated my friend! There’s a lot more on the way that I think you’ll enjoy. Until then! Cheers.
First time on this channel and may I say that you have a gift for teaching that is rarely seen. I am 67 and completely enjoyed your tutorial, with the possible exception of your tooth (LOL). Tough to find one person who has the knowledge AND can express it to others without overloading their brains or boring them to sleep. Thank you for this video.
Thank you, Terry!! Your words mean a lot and you, my friend, are greatly appreciated. I can use all the motivation I can get.
Cheers!!
Love your channel, your sense of humor and knowledge are the perfect combination. You are honest and not afraid to poke fun at yourself. Thank you for such great content. I am happy to see how the truck is going, what a great build.
Thank you my friend! You are greatly appreciated. I’m thrilled to hear that my dorkyness is coming off as humor!!! 😂
I’ll see you in the next one! 🙌
CAD = CARD ASSISTED DRAWING 😮
great music in this video!
Might put that on a shirt!
@@GarageFab and send me a free one or 2 ?😃thanks man!
That would sofa king cool !
Yes!
Another video gem!
When you put that bolt and bush through the diff plate, I thought "big error", but great fix with support bracket. Faith reinstated. Great job.🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
What the heck. Apparently I haven’t yet earned your unwavering faith. 😩 😂
Thank you, Russell. 🙏
How did I miss this episode?!?!
I know I tease you but it because I truly respect you and your skills!
That was by far the best explanation of a Watts Link I think I’ve ever seen!?
Tease away my man. I wouldn’t be making videos if I couldn’t take it. Time is precious. I appreciate you spending it here.
Thank you, Jason!
Love your videos bro!! You’ve got the IT factor. Keep it up, this channel will blow up for sure.
Thank you my friend. Your kind words are incredibly motivating. Very much appreciated!
Here’s to hoping! 🍻
This is a very informative video to those who are not super knowledgeable on fabricating suspension components. I installed a watts link on a 81 c10 shortbed. It was the first time I installed one back in 1999. I was already familiar with them because my uncle raced stock cars and alot of old-school stock cars had watts links. They are really not as complicated as some think.
Another really good video, thank you. It's a pity there wasn't teachers like you at my school, I believe I would have learnt a lot more than I did.
Thank you, Mark! You and me both. It’s hard when the subject isn’t interesting though. I imagine I’d suck at teaching math. 😂
This video is fantastic, you got a gift for teaching.
Anybody watching that is afraid of CAD tools though - don't be afraid of it, it's just another tool to learn. There are 100% free CAD programs available too that are just fine for building stuff like this. Recommend everybody give it a try, there's free tutorials on youtube. Once you spend a weekend giving it a go, CAD drawings become just as second nature as whipping out a pencil and paper. You can learn it for free and use it for free, and once you learn it you gain an incredible new toolset.
I’m concerned about your processed food intake…. Totally underrated channel, great work keep it going!
But did you see me swallow? I just enjoy the chewing.
Thank you my friend! You are appreciated. I hope to get back at it shortly.
Cheers!
“I’m a big fan of watts links. I like them, I use them, I have a little one. I keep it in a jar on top of my refrigerator. I’d like to put more in that jar. That’s where you come in.”
Haha! They’re fun to look at. A jar is a perfect use.
I just wanted to say thanks!! Im 21 and kinda grew up in the lowrider / minitruck scene. I found a 92 mazda b22 with only 82k miles. I want to bag it. So i started asking questions and everybody would just say do this but not actually explain how or why it works. but thanks to you i know now what i need to do and why it works
Thank you William! Very cool to hear. 🙏 The “Why” has always been the most important thing to me. I can wait to see what you do to that Mazda!
Cheers!
Beautiful work as always brother!!! Congrats on the 13K subs man. I guarantee you’re going to be at 100K by the end of the year!!
I’ll take that guarantee!! I hope I don’t disappoint. You’re always appreciated! 👊
Best content on the net dude. You got this!
When are you going to get some merch on your site? Put me down for a shirt of or when you do.
I can’t answer that one. It’s going to take time to build a sight and design said merch. Right now I’m spending all my free time on videos! I figure that’s probably the right thing to be focusing on at the moment.
Maybe I can hire someone to do all that. 🤔
Getting ready to Start my dream build . 49 GMC truck sitting on a 73 chevy frame. I'm really considering doing this set up. Or I should say trying to build this setup. Fantastic video. Explanation was spot on thank you very much.
Excellent! Sounds like a bad ass project, Bill! Lemme know if you’ve got questions during the build. Best of luck my man!
I couldn't stop laughing at the tooth discussion. I'm so excited to discover this channel - this channel is great!
I don’t have merch, but if I ever do I’m considering tooth shaped suckers or velvet ring boxes with a tooth mounted inside for licking. Opinions?
Thank you, Tyler! You are greatly appreciated. 🙏 🍻
Man, you put a ton of work into this video and it shows. Amazeballs!!!’
Thank you, Rick! I’m thrilled you noticed. Cheers mate!
This is a really good lesson. Thank you from an old physics, math, and shop teacher, plus a pretty good mechanic!
Thank you, Doug! That means a lot to me since I didn’t get much love from teachers when I was young.
Very informative and debunking the myths.
Also you can always use links on current model diffs and upgrade axles and centres. Or use y rear end setup like the series 2 Jag or the Aussie commodore or falcon rear.
Thank you Michael! I almost used an IRS Jag rear end with inboard discs on my truck several years ago. Don’t remember why I changed my mind. 🤔
@@GarageFab jag rear cannot handle huge ponies but ok for stock 350 chev or slight cam work but not over 300 hp
That said, I think it would’ve been fine the TPI engine I had. I think it was just laziness. By the time I came across a spare Jag subframe, the 4 link rear suspension was already done and didn’t want to redo anything. 🤷♂️
Reason your channel is growing so fast is because I'm sharing it with everyone!
Haha! Well then thank you, my friend! 👍
But you said you don't have AC, isn't that AC unit above the sign high on the wall?
That’s a swamp cooler. It’s a life saver. The only time I recall talking about not having A/C was at my buddy Keith’s shop during the C10 Suspension build with temps in the triple digits. The swamp cooler is nice but it’s so loud that I can’t run it while filming, which is most of the time! I’m looking forward to one day having a shop with actual A/C that can’t be heard on camera.
Let it be known that from this day forward the spinny bar thingy is now known as a "propeller".
I don’t know. If I had heard the term “Spinny Bar Thingy” first I likely would’ve gone with that instead!
For anyone who wants to use a watts link and handling is the primary goal remember that the rear roll center height is determined by the Watts link pivot point height. If I remember right the rear roll center height for a panhard bar is the height at which the bar connects to the axle.
I agree 100% on the Watts Link roll center. The panhard bar roll center (assuming it’s set up properly) is in the center of the panhard bar. Which means the roll center height varies if the suspension height changes.
I do not know this as fact. But I would be shocked to find out THE most common axle locating device puts a vehicle’s roll center on the far left or far right side. That would induce some really strange handling characteristic!
You are appreciated. 🙏
I came here to learn about watts links, but now all I wanna do is lick a smooth tooth.
I don’t have merch. But if I ever do I think I’ll have to sell tooth suckers.
Fantastic videos bro, I’m a mustang guy but love watching you fabricate. You’re hitting all the right notes, from how you’re measuring to using card stock and wood to layout the parts. Keep up the great work!
Thank you my friend! I too am a Mustang guy! I’ve got a New Edge with a blown head gasket at the moment. Hope to get that straightened out shortly. Thank you! See you in the next? 🍻
@@GarageFab I’ve got a fox I’m into a full on resto on, will definitely employ a lot of your tips. Lots of fab to do before I though it back together. Works challenge subframes, trans cross member mounts, little rust repair and some strut tower frame rail work.
Fun! Can’t wait to see some updates. 🙌
This is quickly becoming my favorite RUclips channel
Thank you my friend! 🙏
The setup for the "smooth" comment ...PRO level, nicely done
Hahaha! Thank you. 🙏
Glad to have found Austin's channel. Very well explained lay out without talking over our heads. I love learning when the teacher explains it so fun and interesting. Thanks for all your insights
Hey, Walter! Who’s this Austin guy? I’d like to check him out. There’s nothing I like more than learning!
-Aaron
I did a watts link on my old 96 ranger back in 2002 when the mini truck Bible (minitrucken mag) was still around .
One of the important things is to remember is the chassis brace between the bar mounts.
Also I inverted my setup with the bars mounted two the axle and the watts link in the bed.
Nice! How did that work? Any weirdness in handling?
@GarageFab nope feels the same. I don't have it anymore 😕 or I'd send pic's.
Just picked up a Tacoma for my next
Just finished a 85 Datsun king cab vr6 Bagged build
Nice!
Hey Aaron,. I live in 'Vegas too and I'm building a street/dirt/rock crawling truck so have no use for a watts link, but your videos are so interesting and informative that i watched all of the Watts Link Tutorials just because. Now i have to watch your other vids. Nice job.
Yes! 🙌 Much appreciated my friend! We’re in town (or out of town) can you crawl rocks? I’ve got a future project that will certainly need some gnarly terrain. Cheers!!
I am glad I stumbled across your channel. One of the best watts link videos I have ever watched.
Glad you stumbled too my friend! Thank you!
I'm more into off road suspension. BUT.......this is the best tutorial of building a suspension I've ever seen.
Now I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate it into other stuff....a lock, ...a ....
That’s what makes this stuff fun! Frankensteining stuff from one vehicle to another. Practicality be damned! Thank you, Drew!
Wow ! I had no idea how all this suspension actually works .. & at first was over whelmed ..lol But due to how you present it in a way I can grasp it's function & why .. I am not so worried about actually doing it ! My project is actually very simple sense I am not building a vehicle that's going to rock crawl ... lol just a tiny short wheel based 4x4 Suzuki samurai custom pick up .. to go to town in .. with no rear box beyond the cab just a tiny flat bed , leaf springs go beyond the rear frame so I am building a 4 link top triangulated suspension just like what you taught me .. sense I went back to the first video & learned how it works & what i need to do to make it all work properly ... the travel up & down won't be far from ride height .. Knowing now what to make sure of & why is extremely important ..it make sense now .. with out your Knowledge I was headed for trouble for sure .. it was way over my head .. thank you for building my confidence with basic know how eliminating my ignorance level ... I really think I can do this !
No better compliment has ever been made, Lee. Thank you for that. Putting power in people’s hands is my main goal. If you get stuck during the build, you know where to find me. Best of luck my friend!
Great video. I learned a bunch about it.... My '05 Crown Vic Interceptor has a Watts Link. Am wanting to up grade the Trailing Arms and Watts Link. Now I somewhat understand what's going on back there. Thanks.
I appreciate your wisdom and patience in explaining how to do it!
Greetings from Argentina my friend!
Argentina! That’s incredible. 👏 I appreciate you back. Thank you for the kind words. 🙏
Although I am not interested in car building, I learned from your explanation of the Watts linkage how the Watts linkage works on a BEAM type stationary steam engine...of which I intend to design and build a model of. Thank
Excellent! I love hearing how things are used outside the car scene! I thought I read that the Watts link was originally designed for use on the Steam engine. I assumed they were referring to the railway sort. Now I’m not so sure! 🤔 Best of luck, Marvin!
Bro, not sure if you will read this as its 2 years old, but such a great video, I just found this and your channel , and will be binging more! God Bless
I read all my friend! Thank you for the kind words and your attention. You are appreciated.
Hope you enjoy the rest!
This is one of the BEST explanations of a Watts link I've seen. I've seen it attempted in some crawlers but it never worked out right.
Thank you my man! I’d love the challenge of trying to make a Watts link work on a crawler. There’s not usually a lot of room for articulation. I’ve got some ideas though. 🤔
I appreciate you. 🙏
@@GarageFab I've seen long bar attempts on two jeeps and they failed horribly. One tried making the pinion arm long but it extended so far below the axle it made it useless. lol
I recently learned that you can mount the pinion vertically (like a helicopter propeller) and it still operates as it should. You could potentially mount it on top of the axle. All the ground clearance in the world.
Very charismatic.
I really like the, "can do" attitude.
Love finding "small" channels such as yours.
Keep up the good work.
Subscribed.
Thank you my friend! Glad to have you. See you in the next!
@23:35 sometimes windage is good. When I do brackets, I tack one on, then remove the other bracket and weld both sides of one bracket. The second bracket only gets welded one side due to the limited space of the gap. Three welds maybe better than two?
What about the angle of the dangle? Ha! Your explanations are an art in fabrication engineering and the models help rid of any confusion. From measurements to sketches these tutorials are spot on. Appreciate your content brother.
Haha!! Thank you, Blad! I appreciate you spending your time here. 🙏 I hope you find the videos useful. 👊
Omg! I sketched my firs watts link 10 years ago . Ifinaly got around to building it after a couple years. i felt like a mathematician building it from scratch and designed all from that sketch . I ended up with hiems as well. During it i had to do a bunch of chemo and radiation stem cell transplant but could never find or talk to anyone that could help unscramble my brain eggs , ive been thinkin i need to make bushing for the link to frame side. 🤔 Wish u made this masterclass video ages ago. Gunna Be battling Az summer soon an ive wasted the last two winters . Its time. Cleanin grandmas garage and putin my 95 s10 fbss on the road! Again. ❤. Thanks smooth toof! Hypedhe algo brought you to me
Well, Sir, I’m happy to hear you’re alive and kicking! I don’t envy your heat. Vegas ain’t no joke, but I know it could be worse.
So are you saying this watts link is done?
Bolts generally function in tension like head, main bearing and rod bearing. The pivot bolt initially was working in tension as well as "single shear". By building the outer brace, you put the bolt in "double shear". This removes the bending force off the bolt and at least doubles the shear force required to shear the bolt.
That sounds good to me! Thank you, Dale!
Have seen a Watts Link design that had both bars coming off of the same side of the frame. It was on a Sprint car that i had the pleasure of helping rebuild back in 2012.
I am fascinated! Intrigued even. I can’t picture how a watts link would operate that way. I picture a double panhard bar.
@@GarageFab is a double panhard bar a thing? If so, seems it would do the job of a watts link and possibly be easier to build. Now I’m intrigued!
You could have two panhard bars, (For added strength perhaps) but they would have to be the same length and mounted to the same points on the chassis at the same angle. They could NOT form an X.
Because the panhard swings in an arc, connecting a second one reversed would create two opposing arcs and the suspension would simply lock up. 😱
i used a panard bar on my car back in 1960 and loved it at high speed cornering it steers the the car a bit id do the panard bar again any time
Sometimes the simplest devices are fantastic! 🙌
It's a gift to be capable of demonstating complicated things so simply. Loved the video, Nice tooth
Haha! Thank you, Bobby!
Dude thank you for the KISS explanation for the dynamics of the WATTS link!!!
My pleasure Craig. Thank you for watching!
I learned about the Watt's link before there were videos. My learning came from something called a "book." This "book" thing was lots of sheets of paper all attached together, like a big stack of them, so they would stay in order, with a cover to protect them. It had printed words and illustrations - really nice drawings - and also photographs. You could put this "book" on a shelf and refer back to it whenever you wanted, no computer needed. I had "books" (and still do) about all sorts of stuff. Really awesome retro information that still applies to mechanical principles.
You completely lost me at ‘stack of papers with words’ but got me back with ‘illustrations and pictures.’ Did these “books” have links to educational motion pictures? I gotta get me one of these.
But before I do…
What’s a shelf?
@@GarageFab LOL! Glad you get it.
Mighty Max what a great "binge" Thanks for the enthusiasm and great explanations. looking forward to checking out the rest of the vids.
It’s a blast making them, Trevor. Thank you for watching! Cheers!
Learning so much from 🇳🇵 NEPAL. Great Fabrication Skills.
Thank you!! You are greatly appreciated. I’m excited to hear Garage Fab is making it that far! 🙌
I just learned more watching two videos that I did I high school lol. Great content. Looking forward to learning more and love the cardboard design. Just how my dad built many projects. GW
Nice! That’s what I like to here. Happy to be of service, Guy. Gotta love the original CAD! I’ll see you in the next one then! 🙌
Great content, learned some things. Entertaining, while not being over-the-top. Outstanding production values. Well done!
Thank you Denny!
The stress you were trying to avoid on the center bolt is called "cantilever stress". By building the 'housing' that supports the bolt at both ends, the bolt is now in "Sheer". You can consider that bolt infinitely strong! The only point of stress, is the bracket welded to the frame, to anchor the lower link. That bracket receives the most "cantilever" stress, in the whole system. It could even twist the frame rail. That would be the most likely point of failure, if you slide side-ways into a curb. Having the upper and lower links invert, is called "camming over".
I never thought about creating the "Z" to increase up-down travel. When I built my model, I just simply set the 'propeller' on the vertical, and made sure it was big enough, that it never could get close to "camming over" within the travel of the rear suspension on my Chevrolet Caprice station wagon. I built it, because I HATED the jounce steer caused by a relatively short pan hard bar, from the factory. (The factory pan hard bar was set level at resting height. The car was equipped with air-shocks, to allow adjustment for different loads.
Thank you for taking the time to write all that, Vincent! Good info is always appreciated. 👏
If I’m being honest, if there was any curb smacking, I imagine it would have yank that 8 inch frame tab clean off.
Also that might trigger be a divorce. 😳
You gave me a brainstorm on what i'm trying to do with my ten wheeler custom truck. Running a driveshift from the front rearend to the back rearend Thanks. Medicineman
10 wheels eh?!
Fantastic work Aaron. You are one hell of a meticulous craftsman. It's a pleasure to watch you build stuff from scratch. 😎👍
Thank you my friend! 🙏
When I use a die grinder I put a rare earth magnet inside a plastic pop bottle and put it close to the work ,,it catches a lot of the splinters
That’s brilliant. I’ll have to try that. So far I’ve tried gloves and not using the die grinder. So far not using it has been the most effective!
Your suspension tutorials are really helpful. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram with a rusted out frame but the engine and trans are great. I am going to build my own frame and suspension to go for a ratrodish/daily driver theme. I will be keeping my computer close by to refresh my memory. Thanks and God Bless you.
That’s what I like to hear, Leroy! Thank you for the kind words ands I can’t wait to see what you make of the Ram. Sounds like an awesome project.
I’m always around if you’ve got questions. Cheers my friend.
6 months since your last upload, I hope you don’t stop! Everything about this channel is what RUclips should be. I’m getting to begin my might max build and was excited to see a channel that was building one also. I hope all is well!
@@sabastian458 I haven’t quit yet! It just looks like it. There’s a new video coming out hopefully next Monday. I’m super excited about it. I’ll see you then!
Can’t wait to see what you do with your Mighty Max! 🙌
I love seeing when someone KNOWS how to drill a hole. Seriously I see 99 wrong and this guy does it RIGHT. This guy had me hooked on the first 30sec, This is one of the few that know their shit. Thank you ManKandy.
Thank you, Eric!! I appreciate that comment about the first 30 seconds. Believe it or not, that’s been a big focus of mine and if you look at older videos, the intros were far too long.
Thank you again for your words. I appreciate you. 🙌
Found your channel while searching about link bars...
You sir have a professional take to all you create/do. Your videos are educational, fun to watch and very well edited and narrative is excellent!
Looking forward to your next videos!
Thank you my friend! You are very much appreciated. The next video drops Monday morning. Hope to see you there! 🍻
So much detail in this video bud!! I plan on bagging my project and now thinking about this instead of a panhard bar.
No better setup for bagging a small truck like the Mighty Max IMO. And then there’s a sprinkle of “Wow” to go along with it.
Thanks again, Brad!
Dude I love that you personally reply on your Channel. I wish I knew how to RUclips LOL I would start a channel just for my Mighty Max
It’s super easy. Looks like you already got an account! Just film something and click the upload button! Be warned, it takes 3 times as long to complete a simple task when you decide to film it. 🤦🏻♂️
But thank you! Replying to every message is a goal of mine. With any luck, there will be a time when I’m so overrun by comments that I simply cannot reply to all. But hopefully by then people realize that I care and I’m not just ignoring them. 🤷♂️
Lol he's almost got the whole kitchen in there lol love the content you bring to your video's brother and KEEP it MOVING FORWARD!
Thank you, Daniel 🙏 I appreciate your eyeballs! You do the save my man.
Hi from Australia, just what I needed as Im building a HD trike and hilding my fear end. Will incorparated this in the design, Thanks from Merv
Yes! Best of luck Merv. Can’t wait to see what you create. 🙌
Perfect! Subscribed
Majik RUclips algorithm figured out I would like this. Now off to watch the rest of your diff videos.
Happy to have you, my friend! Thank you. 🙏
You're a hell of a fabricator bro definitely an inspiration I take it you do this for a living
Love your channel. I’m adapting your suspension insights to a lowered Volvo 122 with a custom frame, parallel 4link rear and Mustang II front end. Just goes to show that knowledge can be applied in many different directions.
Keep it up, dude!
Yes!!! 🙌 I can’t wait to see what you do with it. I’ve honestly never heard of a 122. I had to look it up. I’m thrilled with what I saw. Best of luck my man!
Thank you, Jay. 🙏
You could calculate the ideal propeller length by making it so when the suspension bottoms out, it still has a bit of travel left before banding into the 2 links. And when the suspension is at max travel that the propeller is still a bit away from having any of the 2 links in a 90 degree angle with the propeller (in which case it could flip over).
I like it. 👍 Thank you, Edgar.
Certainly have a style all your own, gotta love the authenticity. Thanks for the solid fab content, stay safe. Salute.
Thank you, my friend!
You made me subscribe on the first video. And i am using RUclips since 2005. You are a good teacher.
Thank you my friend. Glad to have you. See you Sunday morning! 🙌
Make sure you make some drainage holes in the bottom of the factory cover. Oil will makes its way through the bolt hole and then get trapped between the covers, lowering your oil level in the diff. Alternatively, seal up the bolt hole if you have the space.
The cover/link looks KILLER by the way! Keep up the good work.
That’s a good point. Trapped oil didn’t concern me much but with such an easy fix why not?
Thank you my man!
@@GarageFab just make sure they're not it a position where the gear will sling oil into the drainage holes, taking away from it's intended destination lol. Maybe a couple small ones towards the sides. Just big enough to let the oil back into the diff
Agreed!
I can not believe how much I just learned!
Awesome video!
I stumbled upon ur chanell found out wat vibration on my L S powered lowered 67 c 10 is aren't equal .I guessed it when I built it by eye .love this guy .than I s for sharing. God bless yall real good.
Happy to be of service, William! Thank you.
You read my mind... I was just wondering if the pan par was mounted on the center of the axle would it move as much and BAM💥 you did it for us! Love the content man.
Woot! 🙌 I think as a rule of thumb, all link bars should be as long as they can possibly be to prevent unwanted moment.
Thank you, Richard! I appreciate you.
Nice, very nice Aaron! I noticed on mine since the propeller is the rear pivot point it works the front suspension harder because of throwing the weight it lightens the inside tire. But, as you know I did mine off the frame and I'm thinking a rear sway bar. On a side note I just purchased a used Syclone intake, exhaust manifolds, turbo, intercooler. I can't use the intake or plenum but just the Mitsubishi turbo was 1200 eight years ago. Am I stoked. YES. I had to tell someone! And yes, you do great work, funny and you teach everyone.
I only vaguely remember your Watts. I kinda wish I could see it again! I also want to see this Syclone setup!! Do you have an Instagram? Or are you posting on Facebook?
As always, Thank you my friend. 🙏
Man it took me a few videos to get into your humor.
The smooth tooth had me rollin.
Haha! That doesn’t sound great. Apparently my humor requires momentum? Thank you, man! You’re appreciated. 🙌
@@GarageFab thanks for the videos man. You got me convinced to do a watts link and 4 link on my datsun.
I think i will try a reverse 4 link so i can still keep my fuel tank and exhaust.
I've been looking for some time for a good video on Watts Linkage...this one exceeds good! Muchos Gracias.
Thank you, Michael! Glad I could help. Cheers!
This is the greatest tutorial on youtube ever!
Thank you friend! That means a lot to me. Cheers!
Love your use of models to demonstrate what you’re saying 👍
Thrilled you enjoyed, Trevor! Hope you find the information useful. Cheers!
Love the Mig finger! I think I’ll use it next time I have a project! Stay legendary.
Don’t forget to ground a toe.
Thank you, Mr. Bilyeu! 🙌
Great video for the garage punters good effort
There is a thing called roll Center which involves this linkage and can be made adjustable with a watts by moving the Center pivot up or down this is a thing in some solid axle race cars made screw remote adjustable maybe to complicated for this audience or maybe worth doing a video on it
Keep up the good work 👍
Oooo! That sounds neat. Complicated is my middle name. And so is Learning. (I have several middle names) I can’t think of a better way to actually be able to EXPERIENCE high vs low roll centers. Being able to adjust it instantly in the same vehicle would definitely do the trick.
I have plans to build an actual running driving truck that has the ability to quickly swap between several rear suspension designs for road testing videos. I hope to remember this when that day comes.
Thank you my friend!
🤤 over the watts!! Gotta say it again love the “mini” model showing what happens as you explain everything. Can’t wait to see what’s coming up next!!
Oh and congrats on the number of peeps!!!
Thank you, Heidi! I think I’ve gotta take a break on the Mighty Max for a minute. Keith needs my assistance and I’ve promised those peeps a driveshaft video. 😬 So who knows which will be next. 🤷♂️
If the link bars are mounted at the same height to the chassis, at approximately axle tube Centerline, and their inner end is at diff
vertical Centerline when the diff is at max travel. Then the propeller can be vertical at travel limits and maximum degree from vertical at mid travel/ ride height. This prevents hangups of lower slung mounts and propeller in 4x4 situations.
I read that fifty times. After careful consideration… I think I agree! 🤔
@@GarageFab Awsome video man. Smooth as.
Thank you my friend. 🙏
@@GarageFab Hey, I've seen a setup which I thought had been done how I described, but I just modeled it in linkage, and again in GIM and I can't make it work. There must've been other components I missed. My apologies. Hopefully I see the Jeep again to discover how it was done.
If you’ve got an Instagram, hit me up @GarageFab and shoot me a screen shot of what your working on. Perhaps if I can see something I can better help.
It would be great to see how the watts link works on your model at locations other than the center of the diff cover, for instance above the differential and more forward ect. Great information. Rarely do I find someone that makes a effort to educate the viewer. Keep up the good work.
I just wrote an essay response to this and lost it. So sorry for the shortness resulting from my frustration.
The roll center for the rear suspension (the point at which a vehicle body rotates in a turn) is located at the pivot of the ‘propeller’. So by changing the height of the watts link, you’re also changing the roll center of the rear suspension. This can change the way a vehicle handles. Moving it further forward would be difficult because the driveshaft is in the way. You can, however, turn the propeller on its side (to resemble a helicopter propeller rather than an airplane propeller) and it will still work. This would allow you to move it on top of or in front of the differential. In fact I think it’s the Mercury Marauder and the Ford… I am spacing on the name… the police car! That have the Watts link mounted diagonally to the front/top of the differential. Moving it forward or back shouldn’t change much of anything that I can think of. 🤷♂️
Crown vic.
I still want one.
That’s it!
I am building a Crown Vic circle track dirt car with the OEM watts, but I am switching the 8.8 to a floater 9". It has been challenging designing how to mount the bolt for the watts pivot and stay within the track rules. I can confirm ford has the bolt at exactly 45 degrees. I wish we were neighbors and you could visit my garage/ build. I should make a video of my challenges and send you a link. One thing I think I will be forced to do is move the bolt forward to clear the 9" center section. I would assume if I move it 2" forward of OEM, then I will just need to move the chassis points 2" forward. I have raced the same car before, but kept the 8.8. That limits your rear end ratio to 8.8 gears. Racing trans is direct drive so 5.71 is my max gear in an 8.8 which is a problem. I have so many other problems also, lol. I love your craftsmanship and I have watched this video 100 times. I can't thank you enough.@@GarageFab
Thanks!
I appreciate you more than you know, Chad. 🙏
@@GarageFab you’re welcome buddy thanks for everything you do
I dig your little mockup. It really makes it easy to understand. Subbed.
Definitely using this on my 66 Fastback GenV restomod!! Great video, thanks!
Yes!!! Can’t wait to see it. 👏
Oh great! Thanks RUclips! I’m almost done with my trucks suspension using a kit that has a Panhard bar. Now I gotta change it. But, you have to admit the watts link does have a certain cool factor to it.👍 I’ll subscribe now.
Hahaha! That’s life. What are you building? The Watts link certainly is cool but usually not necessary. A panhard bar will suffice most of the time.
Thank you, and pleased to have you!
Welp! Sorry to ruin your day! Cheers!!
@@GarageFab I’m building a ‘68 F350 with Cummins. 2wd with twin 6k lbs air bags. Suspension kit is from Ride-tech and it’s my first build. Interesting what you said about the cover under the cover. I think you saved me some trouble.
That’s exciting! I don’t think I’ve seen many of those. I’m not really familiar with the specifics of that truck, but if you’ve got questions, feel free to ask!
Good luck my friend!