Thanks a lot for the video! I've got a 2018 X1 that's been starting hard, and since I am on the original battery, I am sure it's time for a replacement. I didn't know about the battery registration, so this saved me a whole lot of trouble. Thank you!
Just to let everyone know I got the low battery warning on my 335D and kept the bettery going for another 2/3 years just by putting it on a trickle charger every couple of months (in winter and virtually not at all in summer). Considering how much the batterys are it's well worth doing this to keep them going. Start/stop totally drains batterys, even when they're still fine, they just need a top up.
My F30 is almost 10 years old, bought it brand new and the bat is still going strong apparently. I'll replace it anyway at this point because the stealership says these are only reliable up to 6 years. I guess I'll replace it myself now before I run into any weird stuff.
Bro. Thanks for this video. I needed a new battery. Followed what you did. Now my car turns on like new. Was so easy to swap out the battery. Subbed. Thanks!!!
Great video as always! I've been getting that warning message on my 435i and 330i but thought it might have something to do with the cold since it's been freezing in NY
Wow I didn't even know you could register a new battery with BimmerLink. Definitely will be utilizing this when that time comes around instead of paying the dealership the extra cost for registration
Great vid. I let my 2015 435i sit for about a week and when I turned my car on I got a "low battery warning". The symptom I have is the car seems to lose power when I drive. The rpm fluctuates when im slowing down car seems weak. I did recently have fuel injector issues so that could be it as well. I did get brand new fuel injectors so idk.
Could a battery and alternator test good but still be bad? I’m having issues where the car shuts off and I get a whole bunch of random codes. (Transmission malfunction, dsc malfunction, starter assistant inactive, brake lights, traction control etc. however it comes and goes. Last time I got codes was 3 months ago and last night I got the same ones. Started the car today and no codes at all, drove it for 3 hours no issues, My alternator is from factory, battery is I think like 4 years old. Car is 100k miles.
Be grateful you've not got to replace an f80 battery. You can't get them from dealer and they are over a $G. Luckily I'm in good with IND and picked up one for $1400
I have the same issue my f10 2013 550i xdrive I have a increase battery discharge do you think I have a parasite in the battery or I need to replace the battery
bro im having the same problems 🤦🏾♂️ shit has me so tight but im glad im not alone and there is content out here like this 🙌🏾where did you purchase your battery?
I got my battery from my local BMW dealership. And you have to use an OB2 Bluetooth adapter if you want to use BimmerLink to register the battery. However there are other diagnostic programs that allow you to use and OB2 to Ethernet cable instead
That's a symptom, yes. The hardest thing the battery will do is start the car. When the car is not running it relies on the battery to start it. Once the engine is running, it gets most of its power from the alternator, and when it doesn't supply enough then it also gets power from the battery. So if your start stop stops working, that's a good sign that the battery no longer has the capacity to perform multiple starts, and the computer shuts that facility down to preserve the battery.
I have the same check light on. Does this only concern battery or can alternator be bad as well ? The sign is same but it says battery no longer charging.
An original BMW battery is a bosch or varta battery ...all from the same same factory ... by the way the factorys are in Europe (Germany,Czech Sweden,Austria,France,Spain), in USA(1 factory)
First i got a Hood open stop carefully erro on my dash... and later my whole car have no power so i guess maybe it drain my battery dead... so i go buy a DieHard battery even those i follow what u did on ur video it still have no power what so ever...
@@ADuuu99 Honestly never heard of DieHard. but either that battery had no power to begin with or your car isn't charging the battery. I would check for error codes using BimmerLink
@@InlineSixAuto yes, I did that but the battery keeps dying on me. I will try to have it connected to a CTEK charger. Should I have it run for thirty minutes connected to make sure it doesn’t die on me after ten minutes? This is a new battery I had to have slow charged overnight. Wondering if batteries code themselves because my code tab wasn’t turning blue to click on it, the people at bimmercode told me it’s because it’s already coded . But I never coded it
@@jorgemartinbg even if you didnt register it at all, it shouldn't die that fast if its a brand new battery. I would think something else is draining your battery?
Pretty much any of your newer high end vehicles come with AGM batteries. Flooded lead acid batteries are pretty much old technology from the beginning of cars.
Is it okay/safe that you registered the new battery ‘same type & capacity’ option even though the old one was 900CCA & the new one was 850CCA? Just wondering since I did the exact steps you did and just thought about that. Please let me know I would greatly appreciate it!
As far as I know, it doesn’t matter. The 2 things that really matter are that you let the car know that a new battery has been installed which is what the registration does. And or if you went from a Lead acid battery to an AGM. I’m not 100% certain though since I’m not professional or expert or anything. Just basing it off my research and experience. 👍
@@InlineSixAuto thanks for the response my man! I did some research and found out that the main thing is like you stated AGM or lead & registering the battery but also the AH amount.. & picking what is the closest option that is not above the rated AH.. In our situation since we have the same exact new & old battery, would be the new one being 92AH, & the old 90AH. Which is perfect since the closest option that wouldn’t go above the rated AH would be 90AH, which we already have set from the factory. So it was good that we picked the ‘same type & capacity’ option.
Thanks a lot for the video! I've got a 2018 X1 that's been starting hard, and since I am on the original battery, I am sure it's time for a replacement. I didn't know about the battery registration, so this saved me a whole lot of trouble. Thank you!
Just to let everyone know I got the low battery warning on my 335D and kept the bettery going for another 2/3 years just by putting it on a trickle charger every couple of months (in winter and virtually not at all in summer). Considering how much the batterys are it's well worth doing this to keep them going. Start/stop totally drains batterys, even when they're still fine, they just need a top up.
My F30 is almost 10 years old, bought it brand new and the bat is still going strong apparently. I'll replace it anyway at this point because the stealership says these are only reliable up to 6 years. I guess I'll replace it myself now before I run into any weird stuff.
A battery is 300$?
Bro. Thanks for this video. I needed a new battery. Followed what you did. Now my car turns on like new. Was so easy to swap out the battery. Subbed. Thanks!!!
Glad I could help!
Great Video. Same car, (2014 335i) same software (BimmerLink) but I have an OBDLink Mx+ adaptor. Changing my battery out in the morning.
Great video as always! I've been getting that warning message on my 435i and 330i but thought it might have something to do with the cold since it's been freezing in NY
Wow I didn't even know you could register a new battery with BimmerLink. Definitely will be utilizing this when that time comes around instead of paying the dealership the extra cost for registration
How much would they charge you for that?
@@InlineSixAuto $300
@@erickcontreras1813 Just to register? Or with the battery install and registration?
@@InlineSixAuto they tryna charge me 350 just for register
@@jonatans007 wow that much, it only takes like 5 seconds
Date is stamped on the metal of the negative terminal. First number is weeks into the year. 2nd number is year.
Great video. Was super helpful thanks!
Hey, What size cap should I buy? (06:45) on bmw store they sell nuts, not bolts, and clearly it is for bolts
Great vid. I let my 2015 435i sit for about a week and when I turned my car on I got a "low battery warning". The symptom I have is the car seems to lose power when I drive. The rpm fluctuates when im slowing down car seems weak. I did recently have fuel injector issues so that could be it as well. I did get brand new fuel injectors so idk.
The date code is stamped into the top of the negative battery post.
It has two auxiliary battery, one is in bonat and other in trunk ? Both need to replace??
Thanks for the video Dude
You needed to select "Different capacity or type" since its a 92Ah now not a 90Ah.
Could a battery and alternator test good but still be bad? I’m having issues where the car shuts off and I get a whole bunch of random codes. (Transmission malfunction, dsc malfunction, starter assistant inactive, brake lights, traction control etc. however it comes and goes. Last time I got codes was 3 months ago and last night I got the same ones. Started the car today and no codes at all, drove it for 3 hours no issues, My alternator is from factory, battery is I think like 4 years old. Car is 100k miles.
Great vídeo!! Did you use a auxiliar battery to keep the car powered before changing the battery?
Be grateful you've not got to replace an f80 battery. You can't get them from dealer and they are over a $G. Luckily I'm in good with IND and picked up one for $1400
DAMN
Any options to avoid buying bimmerlink?
I have the same issue my f10 2013 550i xdrive I have a increase battery discharge do you think I have a parasite in the battery or I need to replace the battery
Very helpful thanks
bro im having the same problems 🤦🏾♂️ shit has me so tight but im glad im not alone and there is content out here like this 🙌🏾where did you purchase your battery?
could you also use a OBD2 port and ethernet connection instead of a bluetooth or do you have to use a bluetooth?
I got my battery from my local BMW dealership. And you have to use an OB2 Bluetooth adapter if you want to use BimmerLink to register the battery. However there are other diagnostic programs that allow you to use and OB2 to Ethernet cable instead
@@InlineSixAuto Thanks for the insight do you still have the 2 year warranty to install it yourself?
@@2k821 It works fine with my k-dcan cable on E90
Why would there be a difference between Bluetooth and ENET, this is just a different transfer protocol
The date is normally stamped in the battery terminal
The start/stop stops working when the batery is not good?
Its a possible symptom of a bad battery
That's a symptom, yes. The hardest thing the battery will do is start the car. When the car is not running it relies on the battery to start it. Once the engine is running, it gets most of its power from the alternator, and when it doesn't supply enough then it also gets power from the battery.
So if your start stop stops working, that's a good sign that the battery no longer has the capacity to perform multiple starts, and the computer shuts that facility down to preserve the battery.
I purchase and install a new BMW battery and it registers 82% charge only. How accurate is this bimmerlink app? Did you ever get to 100% afterwards?
Same thing just happed to me but when I registered it it didn't show me mileage from last changed and its stuck at 85%
Awesome Thank you
I have the same check light on. Does this only concern battery or can alternator be bad as well ?
The sign is same but it says battery no longer charging.
Definitely could be bad alternator too
发电机的整流器可能损坏，无法正常充电；换个整流器几十块搞定
My obd port injection does not fit on my car it’s a bmw 335i 2013 f30. I bought it straight from your link I’m confused if I’m doing something wrong
like the Bluetooth adapter doesnt fit in the ob2 port on the car?
It can only go in one way, flip it around most likely
The date is on the negative terminal
An original BMW battery is a bosch or varta battery ...all from the same same factory ... by the way the factorys are in Europe (Germany,Czech Sweden,Austria,France,Spain), in USA(1 factory)
did u flash back to stock tune before changing out battery ?
Noo
Hey bro i just install my new battery and there no power any advice
Where did you get the battery from?
@@InlineSixAuto advance auto and i buy DieHard platium AGM
First i got a Hood open stop carefully erro on my dash... and later my whole car have no power so i guess maybe it drain my battery dead... so i go buy a DieHard battery even those i follow what u did on ur video it still have no power what so ever...
@@ADuuu99 Honestly never heard of DieHard. but either that battery had no power to begin with or your car isn't charging the battery. I would check for error codes using BimmerLink
@@InlineSixAuto yeah but there no power so the car wouln't turn on so can't :(
Can I use BimmerCode to register my new battery??
Or do I have to buy BimmerLink ??
You have to BimmerLink. bimmercode doesnt have the option
@@InlineSixAutoThank you
Will that work for 2012 X1?
Process should be the same
Do you possibly remember how much the battery was from the dealer?
I think it was around $260.
Can you use this adapter for the e90?
Yes. Ive used it on my E90 also
Do you have to code the new battery ?
If its the same type of battery, you don't need to code anything. You only just need to register
@@InlineSixAutoallright thanks a lot 👍
Do you code or register first?
You do that after the new battery is connected
@@InlineSixAuto yes, I did that but the battery keeps dying on me. I will try to have it connected to a CTEK charger. Should I have it run for thirty minutes connected to make sure it doesn’t die on me after ten minutes? This is a new battery I had to have slow charged overnight. Wondering if batteries code themselves because my code tab wasn’t turning blue to click on it, the people at bimmercode told me it’s because it’s already coded . But I never coded it
@@jorgemartinbg even if you didnt register it at all, it shouldn't die that fast if its a brand new battery. I would think something else is draining your battery?
Pretty much any of your newer high end vehicles come with AGM batteries. Flooded lead acid batteries are pretty much old technology from the beginning of cars.
Can I put 85Ah on my F30
How’s it running?
thanks!!
FYI.. it is "Bimmer"...link
Which is pronounced “Bee-mer” which is what he said in the video
Thanks for the tip save me $200 on labor
bro, у тебя пробег скручен :)
This is hopefully my problem and fix
Is it okay/safe that you registered the new battery ‘same type & capacity’ option even though the old one was 900CCA & the new one was 850CCA? Just wondering since I did the exact steps you did and just thought about that. Please let me know I would greatly appreciate it!
As far as I know, it doesn’t matter. The 2 things that really matter are that you let the car know that a new battery has been installed which is what the registration does. And or if you went from a Lead acid battery to an AGM. I’m not 100% certain though since I’m not professional or expert or anything. Just basing it off my research and experience. 👍
@@InlineSixAuto thanks for the response my man! I did some research and found out that the main thing is like you stated AGM or lead & registering the battery but also the AH amount.. & picking what is the closest option that is not above the rated AH..
In our situation since we have the same exact new & old battery, would be the new one being 92AH, & the old 90AH. Which is perfect since the closest option that wouldn’t go above the rated AH would be 90AH, which we already have set from the factory. So it was good that we picked the ‘same type & capacity’ option.
@@miring822 Oh okay glad I got the first part right lol. And i didn't consider the AH but that's good to know now!