People use to change their oil every 3,000 miles. This isn't the 70's or 80's anymore. BMW isn't going to say 10,000 m miles if it broke down after 5,000. It's people like you guys that make mechanics happy....Lol
I believe that ZF recommends 50-60k transmission fluid change intervals. And, one must also change the bridge seal and sealing sleeves located on the other side of the mechatronics plate. The rubber seals will harden over time, not allowing sufficient fluid pressure. This will cause shifting issues and may result in transmission damage.
Can this cause some clunky downshifts? I’ve noticed that with my 328i the upshifts are buttery smooth but downshifts feel like the car is about to go to heaven.
I appreciate your videos. I'm finally turning in what I hope to be my last 3 series lease and picking up a 2015 M235 in a couple days. If you ever read this, I just want to grace you with 2 comments - 1: you are really good at making informative and to-the-point videos, and I like when you smile before cutting to the next clip, and 2: there is no x in especially ;)
Hi Fritz, I like the new opening! Thanks again for supplying good relevant content. That coolant hose flange is definitely something to replace, that's on my list. You showed the brake fluid bleed kit. I just purchased and used it, it worked perfectly for making that a one-man job. Remember folks, brake fluid is "hydrophobic" which means it absorbs water even when not used and needs to be replaced at the recommended intervals. The meter you showed is inexpensive and works well. Also, I had my rear diff replaced with a Wavetrac and after the break-in period I changed the fluid. OH MY GOD the fluid was horrible, it was scary bad... DEFINITELY change that fluid after the recommended break-in. I would even recommend that service on a stock diff after 60-70K just because. As for the transmission, I too recommend changing the fluid at under 100K miles. That stuff doesn't last forever, and this is a sports car, so the fluid does take a beating more-so than a regular passenger car.
Thank you so much for always showing your support, I really appreciate it. As for your advice, you should have been the one making the video that was a ton of excellent information and tips! Thanks for sharing and helping out the community 👍
@@suniltirbooman8160 interesting you say that and thank you for pointing this out- I had to Google it and found there is much more to it. I found this useful article: www.brakepartsinc.com/dam/jcr:be5cef80-95e6-496a-8527-726d067dd0f2/Types%20of%20Brake%20Fluid.pdf
Firstly congratulations on 10k well Deserved brother, as always content is explained well and informative, also I'm finally part of the team #m235i gang
Oh my man. Great info! Frizt leveled up. I see you got a new crew as camera person? Oh wait. no. It's the post edit. well done on that! also new intro, nice one! I will miss the old one tho.
Than you for that. I'm trying to make the videos more engaging but I'll miss the old intro as well. Your content is getting better as well, can't wait to see you hit 10k 👊
Good info I'm still learning about my 2015 228i Msport in Estoril blue. Thinking of undercoating with fluid film since I live within a few miles of the beach.
wait question does the x drive models have only a front differential? or both a rear and front dif? cause im planning to buy a f31 soon and when i get it from a dealer my plan is to replace all of the fluids for a piece of mind also because i dont trust dealerships that much honestly
If you have to recharge your A/C, you have a leak. Period. Recharging without identifying and fixing the leak(s) means that virtually all the refrigerant will make its way into the atmosphere. The approach you’re pushing is the reason A/C recharge kits are being banned in many states. Recharge kits also don’t allow you to properly set the level of refrigerant and oil, monitor the high side pressure, or get rid of the moisture in the system. All A/C work should start with a proper recovery followed by a proper recharge with a machine.
Hey, I have a quick question. I own a 2017 BMW 330e with 79.9K miles. My dealership has always told me that the transmission doesn’t require servicing because it’s a sealed unit. However, after watching some videos, I’ve learned that the transmission can actually benefit from service and that it’s recommended every 30-60K miles. Despite this, my dealership refuses to perform the service, now claiming that at nearly 80K miles, it’s too late. They’re saying that changing the fluid at this point could cause the gears to slip. Has anyone else encountered this or have any advice?
Oh my gosh! Just started watching this video as I have a 228i with 100,000 and new issues popping up, unfortunately. I had to stop and post this immediately regarding wiper fluid. I saw you pouring RainX into the reservoir. WRONG. I had my washer pump fail and did a deep dive. Sure enough, even BMW says specifically NOT to use RainX as it will cause your pump to fail. I replaced the pump myself and believe me, its not fun. You have to remove a front wheel and lining, fish the container out that's sandwiched impossibly between the exterior metal and the body. The pump isn't expensive but labor is expensive if you pay someone else and doing it yourself is a major pain. Please. No RainX
@Krezo200 Hello Krezo. I passed 105k miles and the car is still strong. I had to replace the oil pan recently. Not cheap. I opted to do a replacement since most of the cost is labor anyway and if the seal isn't put in properly I'd have to pay twice. I also went with an aluminum pan instead of plastic. Hoping that was a good decision. I see a leak in my valve cover and bought a new OEM cover I plan to install myself. I replaced the plugs and coils myself. Easy. My Carly app says my fuel mixture is lean so will use my more serious reader to see if I need a new injector(s). My screen inside is getting filigree delamination lines but so far hasn't affected any operations. So, for a car now 9 years old, the oil pan was the only big expense. Oh, I did need to replace the battery and negative cable with the sending chip which was far more expensive than any previous car.
@@Hyytekk thank you for your answer. thats not as bad as i expected. mine has around 52k miles and i hope i got some good times ahead of me with my n20. but i assume yours is way newer, i got a 2012 one
@Krezo200 Mine isn't too much newer. It's a 2015 I bought used in 2016 with a few thousand miles on it. Just make sure you change your oil every 5000 miles or less and do the routine maintenance and you should have years of trouble free driving. One thing to be aware of is your timing chain. They changed and improved the design in 2015. I've read that before 2015 the chain can come off the track from becoming too loose. That will instantly destroy the engine. Check out more info on the web about that issue. I know one person it happened to. A good mechanic can sometimes determine if it's getting loose by the sound. Good luck in all.
@@Hyytekk yup, thats the way i approach it. interesting is that americans never mention the oil pump chain, here in germany thats the problem number 1 for the n20 engine. thanks mate and i wish you good luck as well !
Don’t listen to random people about transmission, their opinion is not what to follow, what to follow is constructor advices. ZF is making those gearbox, and they say you should change the oil every 60 to 80k km so it should be that way
Just want to touch on the engine oil for n20/n26. Have you tried 5w30 or have you always stuck with 0w20 weight? Of course bearing in mind the notorious timing chain issues those engines seem to have.
So after watching this, here is what my turbo stage 3 honda requires as far as maintenance. Oil changes every 5K miles. Trans fluid change very 30-50k (if you want, usually not necessary unless there is a change in transmission feel). Coolant changes? Almost never or when ever the coolant PH goes bellow a 7 (which after 100k miles....hasn't happened yet). Brake fluid changes? Only when there is above 0.5% moisture (which after 100k miles, is at 0.1%). No coolant leaks, no lines replaced, AC runs perfectly and has never needed a recharge... A daily driven BMW requires almost what, 10x the fluid changes? Why would anyone voluntarily want to go through this lol.
@@FritzRamos its what they had at the dealership, I work at a bmw one so I just get it there and do it myself. I saw that the manual allowed 0w-30 so I just assumed it was ok but if 5w-40 is better I’m willing to switch.
I've been using ow-40 for the past few years. Rationale is that it still has the lower winter oil weight, while still being thicker at higher operating temperatures. In theory, the thicker/ more viscous weight should help maintain oil pressure better for performance driving and hotter temperatures (like CA), and also produce less oil vapor that might result in carbon buildup on the intake valves (even though that is much less of an issue for the N55). Only downside is that it probably takes a little longer to warm up, so it would be less ideal if most of your driving is a bunch of short trips. I doubt it makes that much of a difference, but the cost is mostly the same either way.
Thank you for this vid. I have a 435i and really care about keeping it out the garage for repairs related to not maintaining the vehicle correctly. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the usefulness info.
Excuse me N20 with N13 which I own (118i, 2012, 170hp, auto) is the same? I mean I can use the same products that you recommend, also to change the plastic oil filter cap? Thank you!!
What is the most reliable 3 Series (Year model) to go for ? For an environment with more of Off roads and high Weather temperatures (i.e Hot temperatures)… 3 Series with a reliable Engine that can last many years…
Great video. My 1st Bimmer, a 325i went for 14 years before any major issues. But, every issue is $$$ unless you can do it yourself, even then parts are expensive. I will also say too many parts are made of plastic which starts wearing out, esp if not garaged or being by the beach like we are. The rubber is also not great quality esp around windows and seals. On my 2nd Bimmer and experiencing this. So I would say its not the mileage on it, but the age of the car and how and where it is housed that makes it or breaks it with BMWs. I would never buy a used one unless out of a 2 or 3yr lease and even then it needs to be looked at by a mechanic. That’s what I did with my latest one. But even with all the apparent cons and experience I’ve had it didn’t dissuade me from buying my new 5 series. I love it. Nothing drives like a Bimmer.
Big UP! 🤙 Nice job man, I do my brakes and bled the lines then, but totally feeling like I could do them more often. I heard from my indie mechanic that the 10k mile oil change cycle was designed for planned obsolescence.. Basically instructions to bring more carbon buildup.. Thoughts on this and doing changes sooner like 5K? Appreciate these videos man! 😎
Thank you for the support and encouragement. I used to do 5k mi oil changes and the oil looked to have lots of life left and the difference in feel was minimal. Then I went to 7k and that seemed to be more noticeable and looked like the oil was a bit darker. However, with all the additives and claims of 10k plus I have to top off oil in-between changes I figured 10k should be ok. All of this is subjective of course. I would say try 5k 7k and 10k and see what works best for you. Our difference in driving conditions will also factor in. Hope that was helpful
People use to change their oil every 3,000 miles. This isn't the 70's or 80's anymore. BMW isn't going to say 10,000 m miles if it broke down after 5,000. It's people like you guys that make mechanics happy....Lol
Oil change should be 5k miles not 10
I can't agree more...even quality oils need to be changed regularly.
I do it every 4-3k
I would also change the transmission fluid around the same time too.🤔
@@VibingCat39 that depends on how hard you run your car. I usually do the tranny around 30k miles.
I add oil instead of fuel
I honestly go back to your videos cause they're so useful
You deserve more attention
Keep up the good work man ❤️
Transfer case fluid as well for xDrive models. Otherwise spot on.
He mentioned the rear diff
I just purchased a 2016 228i x drive, and learning everything about it thanks to your post!
Thank you and Congratulations! 🥳
I believe that ZF recommends 50-60k transmission fluid change intervals. And, one must also change the bridge seal and sealing sleeves located on the other side of the mechatronics plate. The rubber seals will harden over time, not allowing sufficient fluid pressure. This will cause shifting issues and may result in transmission damage.
Can this cause some clunky downshifts? I’ve noticed that with my 328i the upshifts are buttery smooth but downshifts feel like the car is about to go to heaven.
I appreciate your videos. I'm finally turning in what I hope to be my last 3 series lease and picking up a 2015 M235 in a couple days. If you ever read this, I just want to grace you with 2 comments - 1: you are really good at making informative and to-the-point videos, and I like when you smile before cutting to the next clip, and 2: there is no x in especially ;)
lol right on! Best of luck! I hope you enjoy the car as much as I do.
ZF recommends transmission fluid change every 60-100,000 kilometers
Hi Fritz, I like the new opening! Thanks again for supplying good relevant content. That coolant hose flange is definitely something to replace, that's on my list. You showed the brake fluid bleed kit. I just purchased and used it, it worked perfectly for making that a one-man job. Remember folks, brake fluid is "hydrophobic" which means it absorbs water even when not used and needs to be replaced at the recommended intervals. The meter you showed is inexpensive and works well. Also, I had my rear diff replaced with a Wavetrac and after the break-in period I changed the fluid. OH MY GOD the fluid was horrible, it was scary bad... DEFINITELY change that fluid after the recommended break-in. I would even recommend that service on a stock diff after 60-70K just because. As for the transmission, I too recommend changing the fluid at under 100K miles. That stuff doesn't last forever, and this is a sports car, so the fluid does take a beating more-so than a regular passenger car.
Thank you so much for always showing your support, I really appreciate it. As for your advice, you should have been the one making the video that was a ton of excellent information and tips! Thanks for sharing and helping out the community 👍
not hydrophobic but hydroscopic I think
@@suniltirbooman8160 interesting you say that and thank you for pointing this out- I had to Google it and found there is much more to it. I found this useful article: www.brakepartsinc.com/dam/jcr:be5cef80-95e6-496a-8527-726d067dd0f2/Types%20of%20Brake%20Fluid.pdf
I dont have an m235i anymore since i sold it and got an m2comp but i love your content. Grats on 10k!
Ooo you jump up a few levels! Congrats👏
Thanks for another snappy, precise and informative video. Congrats on the 10 k.
Thank you for always showing your support 🙏
Firstly congratulations on 10k well Deserved brother, as always content is explained well and informative, also I'm finally part of the team #m235i gang
Thank you so much, couldn't have done it without your support. That's awesome! If you have IG message me, I would love to see your m235i. @vroomtuber
@@FritzRamos thanks bro will send you a dm now
Oh my man. Great info!
Frizt leveled up. I see you got a new crew as camera person? Oh wait. no. It's the post edit. well done on that! also new intro, nice one! I will miss the old one tho.
Than you for that. I'm trying to make the videos more engaging but I'll miss the old intro as well. Your content is getting better as well, can't wait to see you hit 10k 👊
Good info I'm still learning about my 2015 228i Msport in Estoril blue. Thinking of undercoating with fluid film since I live within a few miles of the beach.
Thank you. That sounds like a good idea, if you end up doing it please share your experience.
wait question does the x drive models have only a front differential? or both a rear and front dif? cause im planning to buy a f31 soon and when i get it from a dealer my plan is to replace all of the fluids for a piece of mind also because i dont trust dealerships that much honestly
If you have to recharge your A/C, you have a leak. Period. Recharging without identifying and fixing the leak(s) means that virtually all the refrigerant will make its way into the atmosphere. The approach you’re pushing is the reason A/C recharge kits are being banned in many states. Recharge kits also don’t allow you to properly set the level of refrigerant and oil, monitor the high side pressure, or get rid of the moisture in the system. All A/C work should start with a proper recovery followed by a proper recharge with a machine.
I’m so happy you made this video man
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Lots of good information, I’m going to keep those intervals in mind of my maintenance on my n55… But… what about the blinker fluid? 😊
Thank you. I'll save that one for April next year 😅
Hey, I have a quick question. I own a 2017 BMW 330e with 79.9K miles. My dealership has always told me that the transmission doesn’t require servicing because it’s a sealed unit. However, after watching some videos, I’ve learned that the transmission can actually benefit from service and that it’s recommended every 30-60K miles. Despite this, my dealership refuses to perform the service, now claiming that at nearly 80K miles, it’s too late. They’re saying that changing the fluid at this point could cause the gears to slip. Has anyone else encountered this or have any advice?
Excelente resumen de un mantenimiento preventivo. Gracias por compartirlo.
Oh my gosh! Just started watching this video as I have a 228i with 100,000 and new issues popping up, unfortunately. I had to stop and post this immediately regarding wiper fluid. I saw you pouring RainX into the reservoir. WRONG. I had my washer pump fail and did a deep dive. Sure enough, even BMW says specifically NOT to use RainX as it will cause your pump to fail. I replaced the pump myself and believe me, its not fun. You have to remove a front wheel and lining, fish the container out that's sandwiched impossibly between the exterior metal and the body. The pump isn't expensive but labor is expensive if you pay someone else and doing it yourself is a major pain. Please. No RainX
Hey buddy, tell me about your 228i
I got a z4 28i and am a little worried
@Krezo200 Hello Krezo. I passed 105k miles and the car is still strong. I had to replace the oil pan recently. Not cheap. I opted to do a replacement since most of the cost is labor anyway and if the seal isn't put in properly I'd have to pay twice. I also went with an aluminum pan instead of plastic. Hoping that was a good decision. I see a leak in my valve cover and bought a new OEM cover I plan to install myself. I replaced the plugs and coils myself. Easy. My Carly app says my fuel mixture is lean so will use my more serious reader to see if I need a new injector(s). My screen inside is getting filigree delamination lines but so far hasn't affected any operations. So, for a car now 9 years old, the oil pan was the only big expense. Oh, I did need to replace the battery and negative cable with the sending chip which was far more expensive than any previous car.
@@Hyytekk thank you for your answer. thats not as bad as i expected. mine has around 52k miles and i hope i got some good times ahead of me with my n20. but i assume yours is way newer, i got a 2012 one
@Krezo200 Mine isn't too much newer. It's a 2015 I bought used in 2016 with a few thousand miles on it. Just make sure you change your oil every 5000 miles or less and do the routine maintenance and you should have years of trouble free driving. One thing to be aware of is your timing chain. They changed and improved the design in 2015. I've read that before 2015 the chain can come off the track from becoming too loose. That will instantly destroy the engine. Check out more info on the web about that issue. I know one person it happened to. A good mechanic can sometimes determine if it's getting loose by the sound. Good luck in all.
@@Hyytekk yup, thats the way i approach it. interesting is that americans never mention the oil pump chain, here in germany thats the problem number 1 for the n20 engine. thanks mate and i wish you good luck as well !
Don’t listen to random people about transmission, their opinion is not what to follow, what to follow is constructor advices. ZF is making those gearbox, and they say you should change the oil every 60 to 80k km so it should be that way
I did not know the differential had fluids and they need to be changed
bro you forgot the blinker fluid at every 15k, most owners overlook this thats why the 'no signal' BMW meme was created
Power steering fluid should be replaced.
Also, All wheel drive, needs transfer case oil replaced.
dude is that an OEM petrol cap, can't be, were did you get that, man thats SIC
Just want to touch on the engine oil for n20/n26. Have you tried 5w30 or have you always stuck with 0w20 weight? Of course bearing in mind the notorious timing chain issues those engines seem to have.
So after watching this, here is what my turbo stage 3 honda requires as far as maintenance.
Oil changes every 5K miles.
Trans fluid change very 30-50k (if you want, usually not necessary unless there is a change in transmission feel).
Coolant changes? Almost never or when ever the coolant PH goes bellow a 7 (which after 100k miles....hasn't happened yet).
Brake fluid changes? Only when there is above 0.5% moisture (which after 100k miles, is at 0.1%).
No coolant leaks, no lines replaced, AC runs perfectly and has never needed a recharge...
A daily driven BMW requires almost what, 10x the fluid changes? Why would anyone voluntarily want to go through this lol.
I changed my transmission fluid at 60k miles. N20 engine
is delphi technologies lube 5w30 sutiable to n20 engine?
Not Sure about that brand but so long as a it meets BMW LL-01 Standards its should be ok. ruclips.net/video/6YLp-3rZyHY/видео.html
10.000 miles for an oil change is insane
You must own a ford or a chevy
I’ve been using 0w-30 lately and I live in California, should I change to 5w-40?
Not necessarily. What's your reasoning for going with 0w-30?
@@FritzRamos its what they had at the dealership, I work at a bmw one so I just get it there and do it myself. I saw that the manual allowed 0w-30 so I just assumed it was ok but if 5w-40 is better I’m willing to switch.
I've been using ow-40 for the past few years. Rationale is that it still has the lower winter oil weight, while still being thicker at higher operating temperatures. In theory, the thicker/ more viscous weight should help maintain oil pressure better for performance driving and hotter temperatures (like CA), and also produce less oil vapor that might result in carbon buildup on the intake valves (even though that is much less of an issue for the N55). Only downside is that it probably takes a little longer to warm up, so it would be less ideal if most of your driving is a bunch of short trips. I doubt it makes that much of a difference, but the cost is mostly the same either way.
BMW recommends 5w-30 for the N55 engine. They later changed this to 0w-30.
Would using 5w-40 Liqui Moly be good for a n26?
I use 5w-30 in my dad's n26. I think it depends on the year though. I believe BMW moved toward leaner oils for the newer models
0w40 LM Synthoil energy best oil for all bmw engines. I was using this oil for my n20 for 4 years, and now for my n55.
Nice video
You need to be a bmw machanic lol
I hate the headlight washer. it's completely useless. I accidentally activated it after a carwash and had to rewash my front bumper/hood lol
I know what you mean I only used it for this video, because it looked cool but you're right it made a big mess lol
Headlight washer is the most useless invention
nice
Have you tried Motul? BEST FUCKING OIL EVER. TRUSSS ME
Liqui moly 0w40 synthoil energy a40 is better than Motul, it's group 4 oil.
+1
Every 3000 miles
another great video bro congrats on 10k subs well deserved!!
Thank you! You're next right?! We need more f22 content!
@@FritzRamos that's the plan brother 👍 I'll see you at the Kies Auto Show next week?
Thank you for this vid. I have a 435i and really care about keeping it out the garage for repairs related to not maintaining the vehicle correctly. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the usefulness info.
Excuse me N20 with N13 which I own (118i, 2012, 170hp, auto) is the same? I mean I can use the same products that you recommend, also to change the plastic oil filter cap? Thank you!!
What is the most reliable 3 Series (Year model) to go for ? For an environment with more of Off roads and high Weather temperatures (i.e Hot temperatures)…
3 Series with a reliable Engine that can last many years…
The "secret" is maintenance on time XD not only BMW but anything
Great video. My 1st Bimmer, a 325i went for 14 years before any major issues. But, every issue is $$$ unless you can do it yourself, even then parts are expensive. I will also say too many parts are made of plastic which starts wearing out, esp if not garaged or being by the beach like we are. The rubber is also not great quality esp around windows and seals. On my 2nd Bimmer and experiencing this. So I would say its not the mileage on it, but the age of the car and how and where it is housed that makes it or breaks it with BMWs. I would never buy a used one unless out of a 2 or 3yr lease and even then it needs to be looked at by a mechanic. That’s what I did with my latest one. But even with all the apparent cons and experience I’ve had it didn’t dissuade me from buying my new 5 series. I love it. Nothing drives like a Bimmer.
Transfer case fluid .
Big UP! 🤙 Nice job man, I do my brakes and bled the lines then, but totally feeling like I could do them more often. I heard from my indie mechanic that the 10k mile oil change cycle was designed for planned obsolescence.. Basically instructions to bring more carbon buildup.. Thoughts on this and doing changes sooner like 5K?
Appreciate these videos man! 😎
Thank you for the support and encouragement.
I used to do 5k mi oil changes and the oil looked to have lots of life left and the difference in feel was minimal. Then I went to 7k and that seemed to be more noticeable and looked like the oil was a bit darker. However, with all the additives and claims of 10k plus I have to top off oil in-between changes I figured 10k should be ok.
All of this is subjective of course. I would say try 5k 7k and 10k and see what works best for you. Our difference in driving conditions will also factor in. Hope that was helpful
@@FritzRamos where do you get your custom fluid caps from? Also where can I buy that hose so I can retrofit it into my vehicle
2:03 no fkn way… that’s how I activate them?? Had my car for 4 years and never found out till now
Your videos are very useful and insightful. It has saved me a lot money. Dealership in the uk charges so expensive
Very informative - an excellent presentation - thank you !!
Where did you get all those blue cap?
life long is bs ok it sells a any automobile well to the uneducated
Motul 600 also stays dry longer than 660
Fritz Ramos is it the same as in BMW 328i the oil that you use?