Proper condensate drain piping for a condensing tankless heater.

This is probably one of the most important parts of an installation of a condensing tankless heater. Without proper condensate piping the condensate will back up into the lower heat exchanger and leak out of the seam between the lower and upper exchanger.
The example in this video needs to be followed to the letter. One of the first thing a tankless phone Teck will ask to see is the condensate piping and if it's not done correct, he may not continue with helping you.
The piping for a condensate A plastic female adaptor must be used because a transition adaptor will rot out. drain should only be run in CPVC, ABS or PVC piping and a vent tee needs to be installed rite at the unit under the female adaptor.
You should put the condensate neutralizer after the units near piping and you should have a bypass installed on the neutralizer incase the unit clogs up.
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I hope you enjoy the video,
Mike

[@alanbosma2159]

Thanks, hadn't seen your yt lately.
Very timely as installing a Noritz unit as yt came out. Learned a valuable condensate tip!Lunch break over

[@steveloux4709]

I followed this technique when you first introduced it for the Rinnai RU/RUR. So glad I did. Home Depot doesn't stock CPVC in the store, but you can order online with free shipping and it arrives in 1-2 days right to your home.

[@brianfielden9320]

Hi Tankless Guy, Would like to give you a big thanks for all your videos. They helped me install a Rinnai RSC 199in, Mucho appreciation for your recommendation to use spring loaded check valves on both the cold and the dedicated return line.

[@scottb3188]

Mike, question about the specified CPVC female adapter (FPT/SS). I assume that the "transition adapter" your describing is a brass fitting (such as the one my plumbers put on mine). I'm replumbing the condensate drain and replacing the filter, removing the brass transition fitting, elbows, filter adapters, and pex, and installing straight PVC. What's immediately available from the local big box store (and what I have on order), is a 1/2" PVC FPT/SS adapter, without the rubber seal. I had intended to simply use pipe dope or tape to secure it to the Rinnai tank (RUR98iP) 1/2 drain stub (which I thought was MPT, or is it MIP?). If it's MIP, that might explain the difference, but the brass fitting the plumber used, was sealed with pipe dope. In any case, this is a non-pressurized gravity drain, so I expect the PVC adapter I purchased will work with teflon or dope. Thanks. (Update: Found one for $0.99 at a local Ace Hardware; It's 2 to 3 times that at the box store, special order/shipped. FYI: Apollo Schedule 40 1/2 in. Slip in to X 1/2 in. D FNPT CPVC Female Adapter 1 pk)

[@timrowlett5451]

Very true. Yes, thank you!

[@MrParadigmRG]

Mike great videos. I have a question about my Rinnai. The built in circulation pump has a noisy vibration when circulating water in dedicated loop. any idea if this needs a new pump or is there a repIr or easy fix? Thanks again for your great posts.

[@DukeJJZ]

What about piping the condensate drain outside if you live in NYC? Any concern with the water freezing at the end of the pvc that is outside, I only have a a few inches (with an elbow) outside that is already draining my house furnace humidifier.

[@Chefmarcel30]

As a home owner with a bad install and code 25 “condensate trap full” I don’t have the T shape, the installer just put a straight PVC pipe leading through the wall to outside. Could I cut the pipe myself and install the T at the top with those PVC cutters. Should I turn my tankless heater off to do it or is it ok to leave on?

[@lurvenh1]

You should really talk more about a neutralizer, they go hand and hand. There are still a lot of techs that don't put them in, and a home owner watching this would miss the part you said about a neutralizer, or not know what you are talking about.