4 MISTAKES Everyone Makes When Using COMPRESSION FITTINGS
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2023
- Don't make these 4 mistakes when tightening up and working on compression fittings on copper and plastic pipe.
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Conex used to be the best,that still the case?
I'm retired obviously.
I live in a caravan. Thanks for the tip mate.
I did laugh about the tea ! tea here in thaialnd is 4 times the normal price for PG or Typhoo
Are you not wrong at 6:30?
That tape has been put on in the correct direction.
@@samdg1234Yep I noticed that. IF the thread was the part that creates the seal, that tape was on the right way.
Another tip, turn off your water when you go on holis
Yeah - learned the hard way. But it was a compression fitting that failed with PTFE, that sealed well but was under tightened and popped off.
Jointing compound is a bad idea on these because it may seal but might not be tight enough
Best test is to tighten loosely, no compound, pressurise the pipe and stop if it starts to leak and just tighten enough to stop it leaking and then a few more flats.
You should be able to undo a fitting and the olive should be able to spin but not move up or down, that's how you know it was just tight enough.
I turned the mains off and the stock cock leaked
In my youth, many years ago, we came back from holiday to find our carpets draped across the bushes in the garden. The neighbours had seen water coming out of the house because of a leak and had gone round to see if anyone had a key that fitted our house. I always close the stop tap when we go away!
Cool tip too
make sure the shutoff is newer and functions properly. Hate for you to turn the knob or flip a lever and it starts to leak at the shutoff or elsewhere, right before you're leaving to the airport 😂😂😂
Glad to see you mention the marking of tightened fittings. It was mentioned to me over 50 years ago as a worthwhile habit and I have always done it. I then go around a job afterwards to check for the marks (bright red is my preference). It has only saved me once but it was in the loft of a 3 story house where the consequences of a leak couldn't have been much worse.
My preference is to do an initial tighten of the olive with the pipe slightly (~1mm) pulled back from being bottomed in the fitting so that all the tightening force acts on the olive and isn't (after the olive grips the pipe) shared with the pipe pressing onto the shoulder in the fitting. I then open it up to see that the olive is seated happily against the fitting (lots of people don't seem to appreciate that the interface between the olive and the nut isn't sealing anything). I then apply potable jointing compound and firm to final torque and mark it.
I also prefer copper olives to brass - usually involved bunging out the olives that come with most fittings.
So ... Don't overtighten... Don't undertighten... Great help, thanks!
just tighten it.... easy lol
Thanks for educating me
I have never used joint compound, with compression fittings.
Thanks again
Amazing! I learned a lot from this video. (Been doing things wrong for over 40 years lol) Thankyou so much for educating an amateur.
Thank you for taking the time and care to make this.
I'm better off for it now and can tidy up my project with confidence now! 😁
For me the best tip I ever learnt was to not place the copper tube hard up against the bottom of the fitting as when the olive grips the tube the nut will pull the tube into the fitting but wont allow a full seal around the olive so prior to tightening the nut back the tube out of the fitting by a couple of millimetre then tighten it up ..job done 👍
thats why i use ptfe tape - i cant be bothered pulling it back a mill or so... so i tighten it in place, pull it apart then add the ptfe tape which solves the issue you are talking about. cheers
Top tips from Mr pipe man himself! I keep telling the Mrs, it’s essential to have some pipe lubricant next to the bed, for emergency plumbing situations!😎
😂
I have done plumbing for over 30 years and have never used any type of jointing compound on compression joints, guess whet i also have never had to go back to repair a leak either, well apart from the time some one put a nail through the pipe, which apparently i had done two weeks prior to been called out
Bard agrees with you Paul
That doesn't mean that someone hasn't fixed it for you and you never knew that! But I want yo believe you so what are your thricks to avoid getting it undone!
@@antoniogalluccio4213 Maybe delete your post and try again after checking the spelling
Try to be more humble. And what you said just doesn't make sense. Delete yours instead!
Many thanks from across the pond--great information, well presented, & humorous to boot!
Very good advice and a well presented tutorial. Thank you.
Old schools tip use Hammer on olives by tapping olive while rotating pipe till loose and slides off easy mate
Good tip!
Hi, many thanks for all your advice. We’ve just refurbished our shower and want to say how helpful your plumbing tips are.
Well I managed 2 of the mistakes fitting a sink at the weekend. Noticed a drip on the floor today and then saw this video. I'll be taking it apart and refitting at the weekend, cheers for the tips😂
Me personally I found this video very helpful and useful! Have a project I'm working on right now and was preferring to use the compression fittings so I'm going to take all his tips! Thanks great vid
❤cool advice,ive used furnox joint compound in the past, the o 10:4 10:49 only trouble is it sets like concrete after a while,making it difficult if you have to remove a fitting.
My favorite fitting is a yorkshire or end feed ,love solder
Thanks for this. I've made all these mistakes!
Brilliant, cheers! Can I use FERNOX LS-X as jointing compound?
EXCELLENT advice. I am a hydraulic Engineer and I have spent most of my career training fitters how to avoid leaks in high pressure systems. I watched this video to find similarities. Everything you have said is bang on and CORRECT. In respect of under-tightening, we get the nut spun down to the point where it contacts the 'cutting ring' (Our ring cuts into the pipe - slight difference) and we refer to that as the 'fixed point'. That is the point at which all tolerances from threads, tapers diameter differences are allowed for. We then mark the nut and the pipe and turn 1&1/2 turns. That is our industry, yours may differ. We then put a high visibility mark on the pipe and nut. Before start up, all visual checks can be made easily. GREAT VIDEO
Cheers! Interesting to hear how you do it in other industries.
Well done! Straight forward and easy to understand.
Cheers ... Jointing compound.. need to find that. But I always put a wrap or two of PTFE tape on the olive of new fittings, just in case there is a small discontinuity (Roger, Skill Builder tip).
Another tip I find useful is clean the pipe before fitting, with fine grit sand paper or one of those cleaner wire brush tools. can make a difference.
Lastly another over tightening danger: stress can build up in the nut then one day it might crack and all hell will break loose when least expected, has happened to me.
In all my years of DIY including working along side other trades including plumbers on refurb jobs I have never heard of this. Although I've never had a problem yet, it makes perfect sense and I'm all for good practice. Great video.
very nice presentation, I'm fan. The tips are also worth watching & it's very well explained You had me with the tft tape. a Mistake that I would have made.
thank you. great advice👍
Good video 🎉mate you shared valuable information experienced explains everything, keep up your sharing mind 🎉
Caravan reference. Spot on. Exactly why I watched your video. Pipe leading to toilet is leaking from the top of the compression / isolation valve.
Thankyou mate great tips
Always great tips thanks
Fantastic thanks for sharing this really enjoyed watching and very funny and fun 😂👍🏻
I recently had to use PTFE tape under and over the olive on some compression stop ends and hopefully this will hold up until I get my bathroom replaced and get a pro to get rid of the whole thing.
Excellent video - so glad I watched before attempting to use compression fittings.
Quick question - can you still nip up a compression fitting that has jointing compound after it’s been in place for a week, or does the compound go off and crumble if you try this? I thought I’d tightened it enough, but after a few days it started to seep (not condensation).
Thanks 👍
Great guy, very amusing and informative. Thank you lol 👍
Brilliant! I love your wit!
This is golden sir!! Thank you for the information and the laughs, my caravan should be sealed water tight now 😂
Great video james very informative
Good point about low quality olives. Some might not have been annealed and therefor wont compress into the tapers properly. Just get them red hot and drop into cold water - so long as they are copper.
Just found your channel and started watching, you give good advise and are quite entertaining but I was a bit confused at first cos I thought Bradley Walsh had his own plumbing channel.
Great video!
I had to replace a mains stopcock attached to the blue 25mm mdpe pipe under the kitchen sink. Could not unscrew the nut to remove it. Had to use an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc to very carefully cut through the brass nut and olive underneath. A rotary tool would be safer, I think.
Cordless multi tool with metal cutting blade.
"Ohh I've got feelingings" 😂 gold...
Awesome stuff - would have been useful to me a few years back - did a bathroom refit at home - and had to convert a main pipe in the floor with a compression fitting I used a 22mm olive in an old water pile to convert it to 15mm - old 7/8 water It had the smallest leak but take ages to seal it.
you buy the old pipe olive ,good luck trying to fit a 22 mm olive on old pipe :)
Make sure pipe fits and correct length, make sure both sides of the olive are on the pipe by giving it a nip and visually checking it. In tight spaces, I have used a fitting away from the joint to give the olive a squeeze so it cannot move. A few wraps of PTFE tape around Olive or potable water sealing paste where applicable and no problem. You are posh poetable water I have always said potable water (Drinking Water). Not to tight not to loose and never ever think your brilliant and do not need to double check everything, it will still get you every now and then. The amount of experts I have met in life at all things who cock up all the time because they know they are perfect and do not need to check! Everyone can get caught every now and then so check check check. I stripped and assembled a hot water tank bottom fitting three times resealing each time and it still leaked to find at two o’clock in the morning a cracked reducer fitting, I had used the old ones! I had purchased new ones but the old fittings were ok (Not). It was a home job as well.
I couldn't find the olive cutting tool on your Amazon store. Could you link it in the description please. Thanks.
I was once told by a plumber that the manufacturers spent £millions on R&D to get compression fittings to seal properly, so under no circumstances do such a stupid thing as put anything on the joint. Stood me in good stead for donkeys years. A fitting that's been overtightened to the extent that it leaks means removing the fitting and a section of pipe and starting again.
That may have been the option decades ago, but today 2023 the pipe and fittings as mentioned are imported and they're crap, they need all the help possible to effect a good permanent seal. Copper pipe made in the U.K in the old days was much thicker walled , and like for like fittings old against new weigh significantly less, thus there is that less brass. In practice I might add, I would far rather act on the advice of a working modern day plumber/heating engineer than and old fart that is decades out of touch! As for manufacturers spending millions on R&D, not these days especially imported stuff, it's cheap and cheerful to maximise profits.
@@MrChrissy1r You had my attention, right upto the point that you felt the need to descend into the gutter. I still actively use copper pipe - and compression fittings where necessary, too - and still don't suffer leakage issues. I guess you'll have to put it down to skill - something many modern plumbers clearly lack... And, btw, maybe you should get your mum to proofread your comments before you hit reply..?
I’ve used PTFE tape for years never had any issues 😂👍
Mechanical fittings do not need any type of dope. That would be like putting dope on a flare fitting. You just don't do it.
@@will_dohertytf did he say
Another great video. Thank you.
I spent most of my career doing stainless tubing. If you need compound or tape you should find another trade. Lubricating the joint allows you to over tighten the joint.
AS he said....the quality of imported copper - brass fittings are not as good as the older stuff, so tape or jointing compound is advisable.
I've used an olive puller several times and it's always worked really well. However that olive cutter looks even better.
Wow...never knew these great tips!
Curious to know what you think of blue liquid PTFE in a bottle (screwfix sell it) instead of using PTFE white tape?
They sqeek because the machined threads in brass need lubrication. A little oil will do that.
Only one face of the olive is a sealing face. The face the nut runs on is not a sealing face.
I recently (a few days ago) found some "older" USA made 1/2" compression fittings and used one for a hose-bib / sillcock installation...no joining compound , no squeaks, no leaks...
I did that using the fernox jointing gear but i didn't use that much, just on the chamfer and smidge on the olive as i didn't want it in the rad system
Keen diyer on tip 1 do you compress [tighten olive ] on pipe 1st before applying sealant
Great videos. I just bought a 3/4" compression ball valve to replace my home main shutoff just in case my shutoff at the street doesn't close enough to solder. However, I just noticed it doesn't have a packing nut under the lever! Never seen this before. Is it something new or just cheaply made therefore I should buy one with? Thanks so much!
Brilliant thank you
Great ! Wish I had seen this when I was a lot younger. Yes I learnt by bitter experiance overtightening the fittings. Ptfe tape actually on the olive makes a lot of sense. You learn something every day.
I like the mark you make on the fitting once tightened.
Next episode how to fix a leak in your blow up doll😅
Excellent thanks 👍
I frequently remove olives by driving them off using the compression fitting's nut. Just open your adjustable a bit wider than the 15/22 mm pipe and tap the back of the nut with them. That's assuming the fitting hasn't been overtightened. The olive should pop right off, and if you're in trouble, you might even be able to re-use it 😱😅
Yep that's how I do it, it's exactly as you say.
I've seen more videos saying don't use jointing compound and that it's unecessary on compression fitting than say do.
I have done similar by placing an open-ended spanner between the nut and olive, the nut tilts and jams so acts as a fulcrum, works well in a confined space.
I've done that many times. Only time it doesn't work is when the pipe is not fastened tightly so the hitting the nut isn't very effective
Another great video mate! Simple but effective for people! I have learned a lot from your videos ,not particularly from this one 😁 but love your videos and your talent in making them interesting! Looking forward for the next one!!! And yes I am one of those guys that have a drink after work and watch your videos until the end. 👍All the best, take care
Haha! Cheers Rob - enjoy your beer! Will chat about your comment on Locals this Thursday: plumberparts.locals.com/support/promo/PLUMB1M
U are as hilarious as u are knowledgeable in your craft, sir ! If u ever cross the pond, stop by in upstate NY!👍🏼
Thanks🔧
Nothing wrong with the direction you put that PTFE tape on, looked correct to me. Just when you said ‘same way you do the nut up’ your fingers were doing an untighten… now go stand in the corner and think about what you’ve done.
BLUB! 😂😂 Thank you sir!
No PTFE at all. One thing which not mentioned is what I always do. When first sliding on the olive and entering it and the pipe into the fitting is just before tightening, is pull the pipe out about 1/16". Reason for this is, if you need to remove the pipe later for whatever reason and refit it the pipe will not bottom out before the already compressed olive
We saw over-tightening. under-tightening, ways to mark joints not yet tightening but I certainly missed any discussion of how to tell the joint is tightened just right. Is there a type of torque wrench for this?
some great tips there thanks !
Not a plumber, but I use some grease on the threads for the nut and a very thin smear on the outside of the olive. No leaks on the few I have done.
I welcome ppls feedback. Cheers.
Good stuff!! Thanks!
Good tips there , thanks
I am so glad you mentioned at 7:05 about PTF tape round the thread . I come from a family of plumbers and it makes me angry when I see that bodge up under sinks and basins usually fitted by Kitchen fitters (Grrr!) I used to see it a lot when as a sparks I cross bonded pipes.
Great video James. By the way, you had in fact wrapped the ptfe around the thread the correct direction, but did it the wrong way around the olive.
Moved into a house and the central heating leaked. Lots of the olives were so lose I could turn them with my fingers. No way to drain the system. I added over 10 drain cocks and shut of valves so I could isolate the system and replaced whole joints or just olives. Great tips about paste and over tightening.
Great video. Been years since I’ve watched your videos. Only just showing up again for me!
The algorithm strikes! Welcome back 👍
I had recently changed the bathroom sink and tap but found that the copper pipes were angled and i didnt like how the braided tubes for the taps were bent around to suit the new tap location. So i changed it to nice straight lengths of copper pipe, brand new olives and fittings etc. I sent a pic to the plumber just to show if ive done the right thing (he is a friend as well just to see if ive done it all right) and I said i also used the fernox potable water jointing compound around the thread and also on the olive and he said I didn't need to use it at all because it was new fittings and to not really use it for new fittings.
Just wondering if this is the case for any plumbers here? Like is it only for use on an existing fitting thats been fitted and is causing a leak, is it bad to use it on new fittings?
I personally found it good to use because of the way everything was awkward to get to, it was easier to apply this than to wrap around tape and when tightening the fitting it seemed to then unscrew the connections to the tap that could only be screwed in by hand! So the compound helped me not have to tighten everything super tight, also as a diyer it takes a while to know when enough tightening is enough so its a slightly few less turns with the stuff applied to give it a watertight seal, making it ok to give it a bit more welly if needed instead of overtightening.
I wanted to do it right as I had caused a massive leak before with the connections to the bath taps, I overtightened the speedfit to metal thread connection and it eventually cracked after a few months, water pouring downstairs XD
So since then ive avoided eBay taps and overtightening lol
Olive tip I was taught by an old school.
If the olive is just so put something hard being it and tap firmly the other side and it just slides off.
This really works.
Yep I've done that one a few times too! Pop on to Locals this Thursday for the livestream if you get a second: plumberparts.locals.com/support/promo/PLUMB1M or here for the live stream: plumberparts.locals.com/post/4240778/ale-army-raw
Hi I'm a sparks and if you remember MICC cables which have a similar olive and gland system I had the same thing educating apprentices on not over tightening the olives because if they were over tightened and the cable was moved you lost a good earth as the outer sheath was the earth. Brilliant vid and good tips. I looked for the olive splitter that you sowed and could not fine that particular one. I would like to add that to my plumbing kit. In the past I have used a junior hacksaw very carefully to remove an olive not quite cutting through.
There is another type of olive cutter that looks like a large pair of pliers. One of the 'cutting' jaws of the plier is flat and you insert it inside the pipe. The other 'cutting' jaw is indeed a cutter and cuts the olive. The difference between the 'plier' type and the one shown in the video is that the 'plier' type is operated in line with the pipe instead of at right angles to it.
Hold tight!! I had a questionable olive that I wrapped in PTFE tape about a month before this video came out. That and a little dan of Megalok, for lubrication, did the trick. Solid pipes on an old wash basin did not give much wiggle room.
What is the tip for cranking them down right? Can you feel the olive start to engage? I tried snug, plus 1/4 turn. Still leaked. I kept the water on and stopped 1/4 past when the leak stopped.
I always thought PTFE tape and jointing compounds were used on iron or steam joints.
The problem is actually the crappy olives which come with the joints. I'm not a professional but I have been doing odd plumbing jobs since the 1960s. Compression joints were never a problem then. You just screwed it up finger tight then gave it a quarter turn or so and you had a joint that would never leak.The olives were a very soft gold coloured metal. Today the olives are a harder more copper coloured metal. I always now use PTFE tape as you describe or at least one joint will leak and will not seal. I went into an old shop about 15 years back and they had a big box full of gold coloured olives so I bough a handful. After that I did not need any sealer until they ran out.
you can buy pure copper olives (vs the brass ones which come with the fitting) - guessing these are the ones you are describing (they are softer and more reddish in colour than brass)
Who knew again? Great tips. Thanks.
Very good advice for non plumbers like myself.
I usually cut the olive off with a hacksaw blade as you suggest, and carefully.
Presumably leaving the previous olive on is not a good idea?
You can remake a joint with the old olive in place, if you cant remove it. Just reassemble the joint after applying jointing compound or PTFE tape to the olive.
If you are a regular plumber, then olive removal tools arent too expensive to add to your kit.
Many moons ago when a new version of the Electrical Witing Regs came out with major changes to Earth bonding we had to use conductive PTFE tape on plumbing fittings, but I believe the requirement was removed.
If I put compound on a compression it was an instant fail or a rap across the knuckles with a pair of sixes. North Thames Gas apprenticeship. 4 year apprenticeship, 18 years working. How times have changed. Surprised you did not say LS-X, a must on them fooking doughnuts :) Also under tightening is always better than over, as you can always nip it up, over, no chance.
It might be worth mentioning that over the years, a compression joint might loosen with constant heating and cooling of the joint. You can come back to a joint that was tight when installed and it just undoes with little more than finger pressure.
Brilliant info, cheers.
Glad it was helpful! If you want to talk LIVE with me about how flippin' amazing this video was, pop on to Locals for this Thursday's livestream! plumberparts.locals.com/support/promo/PLUMB1M
@@plumberparts I'm not a plumber but I like to fix the little bits myself, I get great satisfaction from fixing the little bits and of course saves money. I know my limitation and understand I'm not a professional. Keep up with the help. Many thanks.
Hey PlumberParts! Thank you for the video. Great Tip with the Olive Cutter tool. You are Plumber Knight! :)
I've always used jointing compound but just a thin trace, not like icing on a sponge cake. And put some on the pipe before sliding the olive on because you're then sealing another potential leak point.
With particular reference to gas - compression fitting where used must be ‘accessible’ ie not hidden within boxing or under floorboards etc.
Where they are used say pipe work serving a hob, the compression joint must be done dry from what I was taught in my gas course. Reason being a joint done with paste may well pass the tightness test at the time or work but may cause a leak later on where the paste was actually filling in a leak and the paste has dried out etc over time
Use a non-setting jointing compound
@@johnmac8084 Non setting compound such as ‘Rocol - Gas Seal’ paste is only used on threaded connections.
Just what I was told on very recent course - nothing extra to be used on compression type fitting, if it’s a gas carrying pipe. Fine to use paste, Ptfe on olive if you like on water, but it shouldn’t really be necessary.
Olive cutter. Very nice. I'm not a plumber, but have been doing a bit of water work DIY. Definitely had issues removing or not olives. I fancy a cutter, or maybe the hacksaw and screwdriver tip.
Thanks good video, I'm going to slap on more jointing compound than I have been after seeing you use it.
You can get olives off using an adjustable spanner which you adjust to the diameter of the pipe. Put the spanner opening onto the pipe behind the olive and then gently tap with a hammer. This drives the olive off the pipe.
Apsolute quality teaching👊 I've seen so many ptfe tape joins around treads.exactly the same though what on earth is this😄👍👍👍cheers bud
Glad you enjoyed it mate. If you get a second, please pop along to my livestream on Locals this Thursday: plumberparts.locals.com/post/4240778/ale-army-raw
Radiator valves still need PTFE though. Maybe this is where the confusion comes from as it's a common diy job. Love this video. Genuinely funny and love the messy work bench and crap osb shelves. That's how most of us role 😂 well done mate.
"Nah, I've got feelings!" Hahaha, love it! Roofer for 27yrs, don't bring your "feelings" to work. That is a rule. Also don't let your co-workers know that you don't like a nickname they give you 'cause that nickname will become your birthright and show up on your new uniforms permanently! No place for thin skin in the trades!
Never knew this... but as an insurance policy I always smeared some plumber's putty on the copper pipe before sliding the olive onto it, then I would also smear the olive with some more plumber's putty before bringing the nut over it and tightening the nut (holding the other part of the fitting with another spanner) to fully compress the olive and form a strong watertight seal - I've never had a leak ! lol
Only use for plumbing putty is what it is designed for, sticking glass panes into windows. Sealing compound works better, and you can at least undo it later on without needing to cook the putty out.
Another tip I think you should have mentioned, make sure when you place the nut and olive on to the pipe, you make sure the pipe has entered the the full depth of the body of the fitting, I have seen some that have only just nipped at the end of the pipe, and could pull apart!
That's a good idea! Seen that a few times myself! Hope to see you on my livestream this Thursday! plumberparts.locals.com/post/4240778/ale-army-raw
I always tighten the nut and olive dry then loosen it and then apply the jointing compound and then re-tighten that way the compound doesn't get between olive and pipe making less likely to pull off under pressure, this more likely in larger pipework
I disagree! If the pipe is fully home then once you start tightening the fitting and the olive starts to bite it pulls the pipe down with each turn. If the pipe can’t move the same distance of the threads the pipe bulges inside the fitting as it’s compressed and will leak. I always push the pipe home then back out 2 or 3 mm so there’s room. Never needed jointing compound. This should be tip no.5!!!
@@bbarnes4852 I'm talking about large commercial pipework not 15 mm plus I see compression fitting pull out when the booster pump wasn't set right
Make sure the pipe has entered the full length of the body. THATS WHAT SHE SAID!!!!!
Love this guy 🎉
Nice one thanks
Outstanding Performance ❤😮😊
i recently had some brass compression fittings replaced with white push fit what would you say is more reliable? (Central heating).
Another tip, don't run your finger along/around the end of a freshly cut copper pipe. It will slice you open like a razor blade
True - even when using a pipe slice which is better than a hacksaw that's for sure.
Very good ideas.
That olive cutters a nice tool to have.
I'm not a plumber by trade (IT tech) but I have done alot of plumbing over the years and never bothered with jointing goop but having seen it I can see why you might want to use it as lube more than anything.
Normally if its a stubborn joint thats decided to weep, I've just put half a dozen wraps of PTFE to seal the deal but thats been the exception not the rule.
Using the olive as a cheap engagement ring tip was a good one. Will let you know how I go...