Thanks Derek for your lucid explanation about the tightening of compression fittings. An experienced plumber told me once that if a compression fitting is used and fitted properly, you don’t need to PTEF tape or jointing compounds as an extra precaution to ensure a leak proof seal. I have for many years used compression fittings against solder as they are easier to use and simple to make a reliable seal.
That’s how I do it you just just by feel really… I’ve seen fittings well to tight by looking at the olive and how it’s starting to bite so hard into the copper pipe that the pipe starts to collapse into itself . Once again thank you for the video keep um coming
What I don't understand is why there hasn't been any torque recommendations for compression fittings from manufacturers. It would take any guess work out of these things.
A uncalibrated torque wrench or a badly calibrated one is pretty hopeless. Too tight, or not tight enough. Copper pipe can be damaged by overtightening, it will twist.
It's because you're torquing to yield. Unlike a nut and bolt, here you torque it up until the olive hits the taper that's his first tighten, then the second tighten us to actually distort the olive to shrink it onto the pipe. The amount you need to turn depends on how far it needed to shrink. You cannot use a torque setting because as the olive is crushing the torque doesn't change until you've crushed it too far. It's between 1/4 and 1/2 turn 1 turn will crush distort the pipe.
Hi Al and Jan ☺, good on ya mate for giving us these instructions, and demo of how to tighten a compression joint properly, all good stuff for us diy types, lol. Cheers mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Jan, Stuart UK.
I seem to see a lot of experts putting PTFE and Boss white on these things. I am a diy'er and have never done that because I tend to read the instructions first.
Because there's such a variation in nut sizes in plumbing. I generally use a 24mm fixed spanner for 15 compression nuts but they don't always fit, and its the same for 22mm fittings, there's a lot of variation. On boilers and valves its a whole other story, a huge variety of sizes.. easier just to pick up one tool rather than carry a lot of fixed spanners.
In normal operating conditions, after hand tightening the nut, the number of turns required to form a robust joint would be: i. 10-28mm 1 turn ii. 35-54mm ¾ turn If wanted to be 100% sure you are not over or under tightening the fitting then can use a Torque wrench in conjunction with Crow's open End Spanner Set using the following settings for the relevant pipe diameters : 15mm 40Nm 22mm 60Nm 28mm 80Nm 35mm 120Nm 42mm 180Nm 54mm 240Nmn 👌
Brilliant video, many thanks - Two points. Firstly, you mentioned that no jointing compound is required. I haven't heard that before. Is that for all compressions or just particular ones? Second, do you have any videos or could you do one on the the different types of compression fittings and there uses's? Much appreciated, Thanks.
I have plumbing for a while and the time I used a compression fitting it broke now was it a defect or was it overtightened who knows ... Anyhow thanks for the video Mr. Plumber keep them coming 🧐👍👍
I was a car mechanic for my first 4 years of employment, and over the years, I've accrued dozens of spanners, sockets, blah blah, but have never ever figured out a plumbers aversion to owning, and using the mere handful of very carefully chosen spanners they actually need in their daily work, to avoid churning up softer than steel fittings they generally work with, and proper spanners would also provide more consistency of tightness. They would of course, still have the 4 or 5 adjustables they seem to be glued to on standby. Are one of the highest paid tradesmen just simply reluctant to spend money, and look much more professional ? 😂 Any explanation ?
@dereton33 Well it's not 'dozens' as i said for a plumber, but literally 3 or 4 "mere handful" , and my point to the plumbers is that, a properly fitting spanner looks more professional and reduces the risk of over or undertightening, whereas, constantly only using vice grips or stilsons on nuts just looks so amateur and a wee bit hashy to a mechanic or engineer etc. I definitely see crawling around under floors etc, as the time for reducing tools though.
How do you deal if you find one that has been overtightened and has compressed the pipe? Do you have to cut off the compressed section of pipe until you get to a good section, or do you have other options to deal with it?
On process fittings (swagelok, parker, duolok, etc.) they say 1 and 1/4 full turns from finger tight for the initial swage and 1/4 turn from finger tight if you're reconnecting one that's already been swaged, and those things are good for like 6000psi. not sure why compression fittings for domestic plumbing don't just give an easy to follow direction like that.
I can never get a straightforward answer to this question. I installed compression shutoff valves. One wept and the other just plain leaked. When I tightened it further it looked like it was getting worse. I took it apart an couldn't find anything wrong. Nothing deformed. Put it back together and tigntened even more--and all this just to 1/2 turn total--but that was as far as I perceived I could tighten it. No--it was not tight enough. Forced it past what I would have considered possible and that stopped the leak. I'm assuming those who overtighten simply don't know their own strength--because intuitively I would have never thought to tighten it to this degree.
I am still none the wiser. Please answer in the value of the torque required in Nm or the degree turn after initial nip up. You seem to hint 180 degree. Right?
@@dereton33 Compression Fittings. How tight do I tighten them? "You have to feel it." What an answer to a totally legitimate question. Can "feel" be measured and quantified? No. So I am still none the wiser.
@@cfcyayaya Feel can be measured. If you feel a large leak, it is significantly under tightened. If you feel a tiny leak, you have roughly got it right. If you feel no leak, you might have over done the initial tightening.
@@dereton33 once you tighten a compression fitting, is it ok to loosen it at a later date, for example to replace something? Should you put a new olive on?
Hi...How do you advertise for work? I know recommendation is best...just curious...there is work out there but people just dont seem to have the money to pay fairly.
My local builders has a board where traders can pin their business cards. But there are lots of online sites you can register with, or advertise on Facebook
You can never go back. Once you've over tightened, you've buggered it. Always ere on the side of caution. If there is a small leak using this demo, you can always tighten a tad more. If the olive gets distorted, or the copper has been collapsed, you're starting all over again.
I seem to get a lot of indian clients who want you to work for peanuts...I cant be bothered anymore...I dont even bother looking at jobs anymore, they are mostly after a free quote, I just hang.in there for the decent work, fortunately Im doing ok for money but I cant imagine how tough it must be for someone starting out, unless they want to work for a company.
What in flip flops, 😂 I give you a best tip take bigger adjustable wrench 🔧 hold it in a middle and use smaller adjustable wrench and you can use one hand only to tighten as a leverage, your fitting not even going to move
Judge a plumber . By his tools. Nice cheap grips. I'm Surprised you've got any knuckles left. From your grips slipping off your You're . Compression fittings
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for your explanation, I did 24 fittings in my new bathroom today, without any leaks! First timer!
Great job!
It's nice to watch very simplified explanations. Thank you for sharing your lifetime knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Derek for your lucid explanation about the tightening of compression fittings. An experienced plumber told me once that if a compression fitting is used and fitted properly, you don’t need to PTEF tape or jointing compounds as an extra precaution to ensure a leak proof seal. I have for many years used compression fittings against solder as they are easier to use and simple to make a reliable seal.
Thanks. geoff
That’s how I do it you just just by feel really… I’ve seen fittings well to tight by looking at the olive and how it’s starting to bite so hard into the copper pipe that the pipe starts to collapse into itself . Once again thank you for the video keep um coming
Well said!
Excellent tips!!! I used the 1st technique and it worked!!! Thank your so much for showing. Much respect..
You're welcome!
What I don't understand is why there hasn't been any torque recommendations for compression fittings from manufacturers. It would take any guess work out of these things.
You'd probably end up paying 20 times the price of the fitting for a pair of torque spanners 🙄🙄🙄💷💷💷 if they made them
A uncalibrated torque wrench or a badly calibrated one is pretty hopeless. Too tight, or not tight enough. Copper pipe can be damaged by overtightening, it will twist.
Thanks Guys.
It's because you're torquing to yield. Unlike a nut and bolt, here you torque it up until the olive hits the taper that's his first tighten, then the second tighten us to actually distort the olive to shrink it onto the pipe. The amount you need to turn depends on how far it needed to shrink. You cannot use a torque setting because as the olive is crushing the torque doesn't change until you've crushed it too far. It's between 1/4 and 1/2 turn 1 turn will crush distort the pipe.
Hi Al and Jan ☺, good on ya mate for giving us these instructions, and demo of how to tighten a compression joint properly, all good stuff for us diy types, lol. Cheers mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Jan, Stuart UK.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks and all the best to you too Stuart
I seem to see a lot of experts putting PTFE and Boss white on these things. I am a diy'er and have never done that because I tend to read the instructions first.
Put them in the bin where they belong.
Useful video as always. Always wondered why plumbers favoured adjustable spanners or grips over the correctly sized open ended spanners?
Because there's such a variation in nut sizes in plumbing. I generally use a 24mm fixed spanner for 15 compression nuts but they don't always fit, and its the same for 22mm fittings, there's a lot of variation. On boilers and valves its a whole other story, a huge variety of sizes.. easier just to pick up one tool rather than carry a lot of fixed spanners.
@@martinwright7093 Thanks for the reply.
Cheers for the info guys.
In normal operating conditions, after hand tightening the nut, the number of turns required to form a robust joint would be:
i. 10-28mm 1 turn
ii. 35-54mm ¾ turn
If wanted to be 100% sure you are not over or under tightening the fitting then can use a Torque wrench in conjunction with Crow's open End Spanner Set using the following settings for the relevant pipe diameters :
15mm 40Nm
22mm 60Nm
28mm 80Nm
35mm 120Nm
42mm 180Nm
54mm 240Nmn
👌
Thanks for the tips.
IMO for 15mm pipe it's closer to 0.5 turn.
Brilliant video, many thanks - Two points. Firstly, you mentioned that no jointing compound is required. I haven't heard that before. Is that for all compressions or just particular ones?
Second, do you have any videos or could you do one on the the different types of compression fittings and there uses's? Much appreciated, Thanks.
No jointing paste required. I will see what I can do via a video.
Sorry. Its Al not Derek. My apologies!
I have plumbing for a while and the time I used a compression fitting it broke now was it a defect or was it overtightened who knows ... Anyhow thanks for the video Mr. Plumber keep them coming 🧐👍👍
Will do PJ.
Thanks Al another handy tutorial and I`m not going to make any rude remarks about `feeling it go stiff`😂
That was comming. Ha ha.
I was a car mechanic for my first 4 years of employment, and over the years, I've accrued dozens of spanners, sockets, blah blah, but have never ever figured out a plumbers aversion to owning, and using the mere handful of very carefully chosen spanners they actually need in their daily work, to avoid churning up softer than steel fittings they generally work with, and proper spanners would also provide more consistency of tightness. They would of course, still have the 4 or 5 adjustables they seem to be glued to on standby. Are one of the highest paid tradesmen just simply reluctant to spend money, and look much more professional ? 😂 Any explanation ?
As you say dozens of spanners needed, not gonna carry that lot around.
@dereton33 Well it's not 'dozens' as i said for a plumber, but literally 3 or 4 "mere handful" , and my point to the plumbers is that, a properly fitting spanner looks more professional and reduces the risk of over or undertightening, whereas, constantly only using vice grips or stilsons on nuts just looks so amateur and a wee bit hashy to a mechanic or engineer etc. I definitely see crawling around under floors etc, as the time for reducing tools though.
How do you deal if you find one that has been overtightened and has compressed the pipe? Do you have to cut off the compressed section of pipe until you get to a good section, or do you have other options to deal with it?
You can cut off the end of pipe or wrap PTFE tape around it.
Thank you for demonstrating this!
Glad it was helpful!
The eternal question
Sure is.
I dont know why on the pack of compression fittings i bought at Screwfix, it says tighten 1 full turn. Thats way too much
Belt and braces.
On process fittings (swagelok, parker, duolok, etc.) they say 1 and 1/4 full turns from finger tight for the initial swage and 1/4 turn from finger tight if you're reconnecting one that's already been swaged, and those things are good for like 6000psi. not sure why compression fittings for domestic plumbing don't just give an easy to follow direction like that.
Never have done.
I prefer using adjustable spanner with water pump pliers on compression fittings
We all have our favourite tools.
This is the first time I've realised you have to use two spanners, Ive stupidly been trying to tighten the large nut on it's own.
No worries.
I can never get a straightforward answer to this question. I installed compression shutoff valves. One wept and the other just plain leaked. When I tightened it further it looked like it was getting worse. I took it apart an couldn't find anything wrong. Nothing deformed. Put it back together and tigntened even more--and all this just to 1/2 turn total--but that was as far as I perceived I could tighten it. No--it was not tight enough. Forced it past what I would have considered possible and that stopped the leak. I'm assuming those who overtighten simply don't know their own strength--because intuitively I would have never thought to tighten it to this degree.
Boss white would have sealed it without being so tight.
How many valves? If it's just one, it could have been a faulty fitting or olive, or the area of pipe was scored or damaged. Brass or copper olives?
Best plumber on you tubey
Thanks Pete.
The grips are always placed on the fitting in the opposite direction to the spanner used for tightening the nut.
Not always, a lack of room will mean you fit it on the nut anyway you can.
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
I am still none the wiser. Please answer in the value of the torque required in Nm or the degree turn after initial nip up. You seem to hint 180 degree. Right?
Forget Nm or torque, you have to feel it. 180% is roughly right, but might be different for other fittings.
@@dereton33 Compression Fittings. How tight do I tighten them? "You have to feel it." What an answer to a totally legitimate question. Can "feel" be measured and quantified? No. So I am still none the wiser.
@@cfcyayaya Feel can be measured. If you feel a large leak, it is significantly under tightened. If you feel a tiny leak, you have roughly got it right. If you feel no leak, you might have over done the initial tightening.
Great video as usual thanks!!
No problem.
@@dereton33 once you tighten a compression fitting, is it ok to loosen it at a later date, for example to replace something? Should you put a new olive on?
Good stuff. Would be good if you remove one now and show the olive
Sure thing.
Hi...How do you advertise for work? I know recommendation is best...just curious...there is work out there but people just dont seem to have the money to pay fairly.
I do not advertise for work as I am retired now. When I was working I never had to advertise it was all word of mouth.
@@dereton33 😊👍
My local builders has a board where traders can pin their business cards. But there are lots of online sites you can register with, or advertise on Facebook
Thanks
No problem
Are you a geezer? lol.
My friend said she didn't know much about London, just that there are Geezer's in London..
👍🇮🇪🍀
Ha ha no not quite a Kent man originally, before moving to Devon.
So hand tight then two 90 degree turns?
Yes.
You can never go back. Once you've over tightened, you've buggered it. Always ere on the side of caution. If there is a small leak using this demo, you can always tighten a tad more. If the olive gets distorted, or the copper has been collapsed, you're starting all over again.
Or you can use a bit of PTFE tape to take up the slack around the olive.
As you say, nip it up, then if it drips nip it up a bit more. If you over tighten it in the first place you've burnt your bridges!
Too true Colin.
I seem to get a lot of indian clients who want you to work for peanuts...I cant be bothered anymore...I dont even bother looking at jobs anymore, they are mostly after a free quote, I just hang.in there for the decent work, fortunately Im doing ok for money but I cant imagine how tough it must be for someone starting out, unless they want to work for a company.
Thanks for the info. It is a tough world out there.
@@dereton33 it is man...👍
Looks much smarter than push fit too. 😬
Yes they do.
They’re stronger then push fit too, people use the same systems on brake line and they do hold (not on my cars) but that’s 1000’s of psi.
What in flip flops, 😂 I give you a best tip take bigger adjustable wrench 🔧 hold it in a middle and use smaller adjustable wrench and you can use one hand only to tighten as a leverage, your fitting not even going to move
Thanks for the info
Nice 1
Thanks for watching
Never over do it once you feel it go stiff. That could result in a very bad leak 💦😂
Ha ha .
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿Al❤️ Torque (Nm) = force X Distance 👁️👁️🤓🤓🤓
Sounds about right Paul ha ha.
Put pipe dope on it first.
Not always.
Ya almost 7 minutes to explain a 60 second thing.
Just speed on, you know the fast forward button ha ha.
can't understand a word you are saying, sorry
Ok will speak aribic next time.
Why do people always waffle on , get to the point
Try someone else. But dont slag me off.
Judge a plumber . By his tools. Nice cheap grips. I'm Surprised you've got any knuckles left. From your grips slipping off your You're . Compression fittings
Thanks for the very kind comments Paul.
Your using the wrong grips and there’s no paste. Waste of time what your showing people
Thank you for your kind comments.
@@dereton33There's always one in the bunch 😊
thanks
No problem