Most DIY people (including myself) put PTFE on the threads of the compression fitting thinking the threaded parts do the sealing. But of course, when you really sit down and think about it, the threaded parts only pull and compress the fittings on to the olive and it is only the olive that does the sealing - as you show in this video, so a big thumbs up from me!
Brilliant thank you. I'm a 76 year old female and it's some time since I did much plumbing. This refreshed my memory and has helped me with refitting my lavatory water supply.
The plumbing in my fifty year old house is mainly made up of compression fittings. I've never had a single leak since I have lived here. I have worked for many years as a plumber and used all of the techniques you talk about. Compression fittings are fine.
Yes. All the stop valves inside my bathrooms, kitchen have compression stop valves. My house was built in 2003 and I didn't have a problems until a few months ago. I needed to use the stop valve so I could shut the water off so I could replace a faucet cartridge. The valve would barely wiggle. So I decided to replace the stop valves at the one sink with 1/4 turn stop valves. The old stop valves had plastic inner parts. The new ones are all metal. The installation was easy as I bought a ferrule/olive puller to make it easier to pull off. About a month later I was replacing a kitchen faucet and also replaced the stop valves. I don't have any issues with compression stop valves. They make a quick and easy installation and have been reliable for me.
It was not possible to get a junior hacksaw in position to cut the old olive, so I used a Dremel style mini drill with disc saw blade. Obs very carefully and slowly to avoid damage to the pipe. It worked fine. I have now subscribed 😊
If you have to use PTFE tape on an olive it doesn't matter which way you wrap it as it is a stationary joint, if you use it on a threaded joint you wrap it clockwise.
Hi Fowler. Great video. I was in the same situation last weekend in our old summer cottage. Fitting were leaking and I tryed to get the old olive off with no succes so I cut the pibe behind the olive. But then I could not get the new olive on the pibe. The pibe had expanded over the years. So new pibe as well.
When using an olive without ptfe tape I always put some grease onto the olive and the nut threads. This makes the tightening process smooth. If it squeaks its tearing the brass or copper and won't tighten properly. Old olives had lead to lubricate - modern ones don't .
My tip: Squirt a drop of oil on/in the joint before tightening (3 in 1 or WD40 work well) this helps the olive slide into position and bite better, easier to tighten up as well. Not a good idea to use putty or jointing paste, after a few years it can dry out and shrink then leak, especially on heating pipes. You have to wire brush the stuff off to fix. Done that been there a few times.
@@FixitwithFowler It's a pleasure, thanks for replying. I'm not a full time plumber but have had plenty of experience with compression fittings over the years, I've come across leaking joints with jointing compound in them a few times, usally the stuff has gone rock hard making it impossible to tighten up further, surprised lots of full time plumbers use it, especially when just a drop of oil makes the fitting fit nice and snug, have never had one I've fitted leak.
Thanks for this valued information I usually round the copper pipe with PTF tape and then insert into the compression elbow or joint. To remove the olive or feral, I use a flat spanner against the compression and a few tappings with a hammer, it's out But usually the olive scars/indents the copper pipe which will then have to be sawed off ; if one has to remove I love your video. Thanks
Set the adjustable spanner so that it loosly grips the pipe. Put the spanner head on the pipe behind the olive and then tap gently with a hammer to drive the olive off. This avoids damaging the pipe with the hacksaw and is quicker.
that was interesting and well done, but didn't fit the compression fitting scenario I have here. My DHW 15mm compression fitting on the copper output pipe from the boiler weeps now when drawing hot water, apparently it has a nylon fibre washer inside that may have now been compromised after 12 years. But I wouldn't really know that till opening it up and even then I wouldn't know what size of fibre washer to use to replace the compromised one till I actually open it up ! a sorta catch 22. Any ideas or tips about that......
If care is taken when using compression fittings they will never leak, trouble is most plumbers are do not take time to make sure all parts of the compression joint are clean prior to assembling the fitting that includes not making sure the copper pipe is free from scratches at the point where the olive fits, a lot of plumbers use ptfe tape instead of cleaning because it is quicker, they also use some sealing paste slapped around the olive area, this causes other problems over time, as some of this sealing paste gets carried through the pipes and can clog up radiator valves and taps that have ceramic discs, but they are not bothered about this because it is another job for them to make more money fixing it at a later date.
I would add, please use two adjustable wrenches - using just one could cause a bend in the adjacent pipe, ending up with an even bigger problem. Hold the elbow joint with one spanner and adjust with the other, that way, you're isolating the strain and pressure to just the elbow
I’m in the USA (Chicago are) and we don’t use these type of connectors in residential homes. I have double compression regular valves to toilets and sinks. This tract home was built for us 20 years ago, and I felt it was time to replace them (the old were regular valves are difficult to turn). I had 16 valves and replaced them all. I used 1/4 turn double compression ball valves, they don’t freeze up like the old ones. I find buying in bulk (I bought 2 pkgs. of 10) makes it much cheaper and a few spares come in handy. Where these are I’ve yet to have one leak. Your situation with the compression fitting might be that it’s not properly supported and if someone hits it, it will leak. I’m assuming you’re in the UK.
Hi Jim, greetings from the Uk! The video is more of a demonstration of what can cause a leak but, more importantly, how to fix them. In the UK, we have moved on to push fittings like the Sharkbite ones, but these compression fitting are still in many hones.
From what I have found from repairing leaks, is that they were never done correctly in the first place. You often remove a leaking pipe to find the olive wasn't compressed enough to get a watertight seal that would last. PTFE tape is always good used correctly. If slabbering joint seal on is your solution then you'd be better getting a real plumber to fix it.
Cheers for your comment. It seems a lot of trade related items go by different names. When i was researching my Wall Bolt video, i found out they had about 4 different names depending on manufacturer and people's location!
Interesting approach. But I wonder how long it will be before the safety nannies start lobbying to remove PTFE tape from the market over the PFAS hysteria currently extent.
Thanks big help as a DIY person .where i live in cape town south africa they steal the copper pipes as my water heater is out side but high up can i use poly pipe the orange brown coloured material to replace where the copper has been stolen thanks Trev in sunny cape town south africa
Plumbing is not my favourite sport but invariably I end up with at least one leaky joint - I've always thought jointing compound was a bit of a fudge but have had to resort to it on a totally nightmare joint on a replacement shower mixer valve once I may do so on a filling loop I've just replaced too as the pipe is a bit deformed from a previous person's attempt!
Hi, i understand what you mean about jointing compounds, but a lot of plumbers use it as standard practice as it helps lubricate the joints and olive and guarantees a water tight joint.
To prevent leaking from the nut, just cut a small piece off after the Olive ring at the end of the copper pipe and tighten than the nut. Keep end distance short after Olive ring
You could try that but i would recommend fitting the olive then using plumbers mate over the top and compressing the fitting as normal. If that doesn't work you would need to replace that section of pipe.
Always have a tub of Vaseline. When fitting the union smear slightly around the pipe where the Ferrell seats and then put around the out side of the Ferrell. By using Vaseline you will at least get another half turn or one turn more .BRASS and copper seize before you have the correct torque on the thread.
I'm curious as to whether you can anneal the olive with a torch to return it to its original shape if it is distorted. You can do this with copper compression washers used on oil drain plugs in engines. I'm guessing the olives would be so cheap that it wouldn't be worth doing though.
Hi, you can get a pack of olives so cheap it's not worth doing. However, I didn't know you could do that, so that's a good bit of info! Thanks for your comment 👍
Yeah, that's shown in the top left of the video as an alternative to ptfe tape. Personally, i prefer the jointing compound as it lubricates everything as well!
I have only ever used flared pipe compression fittings. If the pipe is very old sometimes I have troubles getting it to seal initially but it usually takes up and I have never had one START to leak if it has been sealed initially. I wonder when they started using olives. It seems to introduce several new potential points of leakage.
Im not sure when olives were introduced, but as long as i can remember inside compression fittings. They normally start to leak if they have been disturbed (knocked, banged). This video is to help homeowners fix a leaking joint using simple techniques!
Tightening a compression joint without supporting the other side and using a 90 degree copper pipe as lever as it is in that first clip is not good practice. It puts a strain on the other compression joint, which can cause more leaks and you can even put a kink in the the copper tube. The other side of the fitment should be supported so that you do not strain other joints. It doesn't matter if it's a brass fitting, like a 90 degree bend shown there, a valve or anything just supported by the copper pipe then support the fitment on both sides. Something like a set of large locking pliers works well as they can often been clamped in such a way that they bear against a surface, provide the appropriate degree of support and frees up a hand. Also, for stubborn joint that won't seal, probably because the pipe has been slightly deformed, then a tiny smear of LSX works wonders. Some will use it pre-emptively, although I still feel that a proper compression joint, made properly, will not leak.
Have to redo the video and show people that they HAV to use 2 wrenches. The one u didn't show was the backer wrench to keep from ruining the other joint and or pipe when tightening. Also when installing in the first place, putting a vacuum grease on the ferrel to begin with does the job!
i have a slow drip from a compression joint linking thin copper pipe to a towel radiator.the problem is when i grip the fitting in vice grips it flexes the thin pipe and i'm afraid it will break it if i put more pressure
That sounds like a micro bore pipe, usually 8mm or 10mm in diameter. If your scared of breaking the pipe or making it worse you could drain the water out if the heating system then put a new fitting on or as a temporary measure use something like this until you can get a plumber round amzn.to/3uWElRO
PTFE should only be used as a last resort and a temporary fix until you have the chance to repair the joint correctly using a new olive and jointing compound or other correct means. You did show the compound in the corner of the video so fair play. Just to highlight that PTFE is not good practice for using on compression joints and certainly not a permanent fix.
What bugs me is when the plumber creates a collar and the nut when released doesnt uncover the olive so you cant wrap the olive properly with PTFE tape.
You didn't show that when the olive was removed, the copper tube was scarred and dented by the compression of the olive. When you showed a new olive being installed you switched the copper tube for a new unscarred one. A new olive fitted to the original tube is not a reliable seal. Always use two spanners when tightening a compression joint, and count the turns. A compression joint seals by dimension, not by torque. You are a plumber and know a lot of quick fixes and that's fine, and many of them will last even though they are not quite "right". Thank you for sharing your tips.
It was the same bit of pipe and wasn't swapped out as it was in my vice. The fitting is just for demonstration purposes only, but you're right the olive can deform the pipe.
Haha yeah but yours is a reconstruction for dummies that don’t know any better. Iam just saying I could imagine someone having a leak , watch your video and have more of a leak.
Hi, its definitely better to solder if possible however dod you know hep2o give a 50 year guarantee on there pipe/fittings if used together? Today's copper is so thin im sure it will perish before the 50 years.
Hi, i did show jointing compound as an alternative to ptfe tape. I made the ptfe tape an option really due to cost for people. Thanks for your comment!
Never use PTFE tape on an olive. It only causes problems for the next time that fitting needs to be redone. If the Olive needs to be replaced then the tube will also need to be replaced (or shortened). Just because some "tricks" sometimes work, does not mean they should be used.
@@FixitwithFowler Just because something is common practice does not mean it is a good practice. When an Olive is fitted to a tube the Tube and Olive both get deformed to a degree. Replacing the Olive without a fresh portion of Tube has an increased risk of failure. I agree that it can be successfull, but it should not be a recommended method. A lot of these type of "Quick Fixes" do often work They also often add additional effort when a "Propper" repair needs to be done. One issue I have with these "Quick Fix" options being shown like this is they are protrayed as good methods. The downside of this patch up is never mentioned.
@@ben7932 No, But I am a tradsman that has worked with fluid conductors for a long time. Pipes and Tubes are not exclusive to the Plumbing industry. I grew up on building sites and around Plumbers. My work background involves a lot of maintenance of a variety of things. These quick fixes often work but will usually create more effort/expence when proper repairs are to be done. Thank you for asking about my experiance on the subject.
Everyone has their own opinion, and thats what makes youtube discussons great. Don't forget that this is purely for plumbing (water) on copper pipe with the correct designed compression joints/fittings. It has no reference to anything else and is aimed to help people out of a situation and save money.
Never use ptfe tape on a compression joint! Get a jointing paste like Hawk white or the potable alternative. Then tighten it up just enough. Don't overtighten tho, or you will crush the olive, and it won't seal.
Hi, thanks for your comment. That's why i included jointing compound as an alternative in the ptfe tape video (smaller video playing in the corner). Its good to show a few options to let people choose what suits them.
The way you feed the teflon tape is backwards, mate. By truring it the Other wat you have the ability to add tension to the pipe with the tape. Also many people use adjustable wrenches like you showed in this video. Wrong! Always turn the wrench with the tightening rotation. You had it backwards. Great video though.
Another brilliant video, mate! You're now my go-to DIY channel. Keep up the good work 👏 🙌
Hi Simon, thanks so much for your comment 👍 😀 😊
Most DIY people (including myself) put PTFE on the threads of the compression fitting thinking the threaded parts do the sealing. But of course, when you really sit down and think about it, the threaded parts only pull and compress the fittings on to the olive and it is only the olive that does the sealing - as you show in this video, so a big thumbs up from me!
Thanks for your comment. You are 100% correct about ptfe tape. The number of jobs I've seen where people have put ptfe tape on the threads is scary.
Brilliant thank you. I'm a 76 year old female and it's some time since I did much plumbing. This refreshed my memory and has helped me with refitting my lavatory water supply.
Hi, that's brilliant to hear! Im glad the video helped you. Please consider subscribing for more great videos 👍
I love all your videos - so much practical, sensible and realistic help.
Glad you like them! Thanks for your comment 😀
Jack Bauer with an English accent. Everyone knows if you do what Jack says, all will be right with the world. I rate this vid 24/24.
Thanks for your comment 👍
Thank you so much. You're such a great instructor.
Thanks for a brilliant comment, i hope tou liked the video.
The plumbing in my fifty year old house is mainly made up of compression fittings. I've never had a single leak since I have lived here. I have worked for many years as a plumber and used all of the techniques you talk about. Compression fittings are fine.
Hi, yes i agree 👍. Compression fittings are good and reliable so long as they are installed correctly.
Yes. All the stop valves inside my bathrooms, kitchen have compression stop valves. My house was built in 2003 and I didn't have a problems until a few months ago. I needed to use the stop valve so I could shut the water off so I could replace a faucet cartridge. The valve would barely wiggle. So I decided to replace the stop valves at the one sink with 1/4 turn stop valves. The old stop valves had plastic inner parts. The new ones are all metal. The installation was easy as I bought a ferrule/olive puller to make it easier to pull off. About a month later I was replacing a kitchen faucet and also replaced the stop valves. I don't have any issues with compression stop valves. They make a quick and easy installation and have been reliable for me.
Thanks for your comment 👍
Thank you! I’m going to give this a go tomorrow, one my pipes are fully thawed out
Hi, its easy to do!
ptfe round the olive fixed my problem, cheers!
I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for your comment 👍
love the heavy duty fixing on the vise.
Lol, just a temporary measure! I need to fix it properly but need it demountable as well.
@@FixitwithFowler not a criticism, i thought it was cute.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Excellent video, I repaired my shower pipe with PTFE tape. Thank you SO much 👍
Glad it helped, thanks for your comment!
It was not possible to get a junior hacksaw in position to cut the old olive, so I used a Dremel style mini drill with disc saw blade. Obs very carefully and slowly to avoid damage to the pipe. It worked fine. I have now subscribed 😊
Hi, im glad you found the video useful, and thanks for subscribing!
Very clear - invaluable advice !
Thanks for your comment!
If you have to use PTFE tape on an olive it doesn't matter which way you wrap it as it is a stationary joint, if you use it on a threaded joint you wrap it clockwise.
Thanks for your comment!
you sir, are a legend
And that, sir, is an amazing comment! Thanks 😁😁😁
Hi Fowler. Great video. I was in the same situation last weekend in our old summer cottage. Fitting were leaking and I tryed to get the old olive off with no succes so I cut the pibe behind the olive. But then I could not get the new olive on the pibe. The pibe had expanded over the years. So new pibe as well.
Hi, im glad you found the fix a leaking compression joint video useful. Thanks for your comment 👍
Thank you helped me alot here in South Africa 🙏🙏🙏🙏👍
Thanks for your comment. It's amazing that my video has reached you in South Africa!
Good demo with WhiteTape and CopperRing for CompressionCopperPipe fittings .
Thanks for your comment. I'm glad you liked the video!
This piece was leaking on my outside tap.Thanks!
Im glad you have managed to fix your leak! Thanks for your comment 😁😁
Wow so amazing I tried third one and it was really worked. Just a suggestion for people who follow just make sure each and every step do as it is.
Thanks for sharing, I'm glad this helped fix your leaking compression fitting.
When using an olive without ptfe tape I always put some grease onto the olive and the nut threads. This makes the tightening process smooth. If it squeaks its tearing the brass or copper and won't tighten properly. Old olives had lead to lubricate - modern ones don't .
Thanks for your tip!
I’ve never really had much problem with compression fittings , they quite easy and handy
Hi, i agree with you so long as the compression fittings are installed correctly and not disturbed
Brilliant! Thank you so much.
Have you managed to fix your leak?
Thanks❤
Thanks for your comment!
Excellent video!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Good job
Thanks for your comment!
Thanks mate. I would of never thought to use a wrench to tighten a nut!
Lol 😆
My tip: Squirt a drop of oil on/in the joint before tightening (3 in 1 or WD40 work well) this helps the olive slide into position and bite better, easier to tighten up as well. Not a good idea to use putty or jointing paste, after a few years it can dry out and shrink then leak, especially on heating pipes. You have to wire brush the stuff off to fix. Done that been there a few times.
Great tip, thanks for your comment!
@@FixitwithFowler It's a pleasure, thanks for replying. I'm not a full time plumber but have had plenty of experience with compression fittings over the years, I've come across leaking joints with jointing compound in them a few times, usally the stuff has gone rock hard making it impossible to tighten up further, surprised lots of full time plumbers use it, especially when just a drop of oil makes the fitting fit nice and snug, have never had one I've fitted leak.
Thanks again
Wonderful information
Thankyou!
Thank you
Hi Mitch, Thanks for your comment. Hope the video has helped you out!
Thanks for this valued information
I usually round the copper pipe with PTF tape and then insert into the compression elbow or joint.
To remove the olive or feral, I use a flat spanner against the compression and a few tappings with a hammer, it's out
But usually the olive scars/indents the copper pipe which will then have to be sawed off ; if one has to remove
I love your video. Thanks
Hi. Thanks for your comment, and im glad you liked the video!
excellent very informative 👍
I'm glad it was helpful, and thanks for your comment. Don't forget to have a look at my other videos!
Hi you need to support the joint on the flats when working on it as you know?
Hi, thanks for your comment 👍.
I took note of the necessary tools to buy gradually.
Set the adjustable spanner so that it loosly grips the pipe. Put the spanner head on the pipe behind the olive and then tap gently with a hammer to drive the olive off. This avoids damaging the pipe with the hacksaw and is quicker.
Thanks for the comment, i will give that a try next time!
that was interesting and well done, but didn't fit the compression fitting scenario I have here. My DHW 15mm compression fitting on the copper output pipe from the boiler weeps now when drawing hot water, apparently it has a nylon fibre washer inside that may have now been compromised after 12 years. But I wouldn't really know that till opening it up and even then I wouldn't know what size of fibre washer to use to replace the compromised one till I actually open it up ! a sorta catch 22. Any ideas or tips about that......
If you have a plumber's merchant nearby, you could take some photos of it and then take it with you. They are normally really good and knowledgeable.
good!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks man brilliants !
Thanks for your comment. Did you fix your leaking compression fitting?
@@FixitwithFowler Yes bro I fixed leak by using method 2 with white tape. You know standard of Birmingham City Council ;) Thanks a lots
@janekmachnicki2593 brilliant, thanks again 👏
Good vid ... you have a new sub.
Thanks for your comment and thanks for subscribing!
If care is taken when using compression fittings they will never leak, trouble is most plumbers are do not take time to make sure all parts of the compression joint are clean prior to assembling the fitting that includes not making sure the copper pipe is free from scratches at the point where the olive fits, a lot of plumbers use ptfe tape instead of cleaning because it is quicker, they also use some sealing paste slapped around the olive area, this causes other problems over time, as some of this sealing paste gets carried through the pipes and can clog up radiator valves and taps that have ceramic discs, but they are not bothered about this because it is another job for them to make more money fixing it at a later date.
I would add, please use two adjustable wrenches - using just one could cause a bend in the adjacent pipe, ending up with an even bigger problem. Hold the elbow joint with one spanner and adjust with the other, that way, you're isolating the strain and pressure to just the elbow
Yeah you are correct, thanks for your comment!
I’m in the USA (Chicago are) and we don’t use these type of connectors in residential homes. I have double compression regular valves to toilets and sinks. This tract home was built for us 20 years ago, and I felt it was time to replace them (the old were regular valves are difficult to turn). I had 16 valves and replaced them all. I used 1/4 turn double compression ball valves, they don’t freeze up like the old ones. I find buying in bulk (I bought 2 pkgs. of 10) makes it much cheaper and a few spares come in handy. Where these are I’ve yet to have one leak. Your situation with the compression fitting might be that it’s not properly supported and if someone hits it, it will leak. I’m assuming you’re in the UK.
Hi Jim, greetings from the Uk! The video is more of a demonstration of what can cause a leak but, more importantly, how to fix them. In the UK, we have moved on to push fittings like the Sharkbite ones, but these compression fitting are still in many hones.
Brilliant !
Thanks for your comment Roy!
From what I have found from repairing leaks, is that they were never done correctly in the first place. You often remove a leaking pipe to find the olive wasn't compressed enough to get a watertight seal that would last. PTFE tape is always good used correctly. If slabbering joint seal on is your solution then you'd be better getting a real plumber to fix it.
I agree the best method is to redo the joint!
First I've heard ferrules (what we call them) described as olives. Chalk it up for another win in the learning department.
Cheers for your comment. It seems a lot of trade related items go by different names. When i was researching my Wall Bolt video, i found out they had about 4 different names depending on manufacturer and people's location!
Interesting approach. But I wonder how long it will be before the safety nannies start lobbying to remove PTFE tape from the market over the PFAS hysteria currently extent.
More than likely 🤣🤣
Thanks big help as a DIY person .where i live in cape town south africa they steal the copper pipes as my water heater is out side but high up can i use poly pipe the orange brown coloured material to replace where the copper has been stolen thanks Trev in sunny cape town south africa
That's amazing. You're in Cape Town, and my video was helpful. Thanks for your comment!
Great video thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you sir!
You are welcome!
Plumbing is not my favourite sport but invariably I end up with at least one leaky joint - I've always thought jointing compound was a bit of a fudge but have had to resort to it on a totally nightmare joint on a replacement shower mixer valve once I may do so on a filling loop I've just replaced too as the pipe is a bit deformed from a previous person's attempt!
Hi, i understand what you mean about jointing compounds, but a lot of plumbers use it as standard practice as it helps lubricate the joints and olive and guarantees a water tight joint.
To prevent leaking from the nut, just cut a small piece off after the Olive ring at the end of the copper pipe and tighten than the nut. Keep end distance short after Olive ring
Thanks for your comment!
Try turning down the water pressure at the stop cock first !
It worked for me 😁😁😁😁
Yeah that might work but won't fix the leak.
If you do scratch the pipe whilst cutting off the olive will it suffice to wrap ptfe tape over the scratch and slide the olive over the top?
You could try that but i would recommend fitting the olive then using plumbers mate over the top and compressing the fitting as normal. If that doesn't work you would need to replace that section of pipe.
Always have a tub of Vaseline. When fitting the union smear slightly around the pipe where the Ferrell seats and then put around the out side of the Ferrell. By using Vaseline you will at least get another half turn or one turn more .BRASS and copper seize before you have the correct torque on the thread.
Thats a good tip, thanks for that
I'm curious as to whether you can anneal the olive with a torch to return it to its original shape if it is distorted. You can do this with copper compression washers used on oil drain plugs in engines. I'm guessing the olives would be so cheap that it wouldn't be worth doing though.
Hi, you can get a pack of olives so cheap it's not worth doing. However, I didn't know you could do that, so that's a good bit of info! Thanks for your comment 👍
You can also use jointing compound
Yeah, that's shown in the top left of the video as an alternative to ptfe tape. Personally, i prefer the jointing compound as it lubricates everything as well!
What about using jointing compound, a small cost and much more reliable than ptfe tape. I am a DIYer myself
Yeah, that's why i put it in the corner of the ptfe section.
I have only ever used flared pipe compression fittings. If the pipe is very old sometimes I have troubles getting it to seal initially but it usually takes up and I have never had one START to leak if it has been sealed initially. I wonder when they started using olives. It seems to introduce several new potential points of leakage.
Im not sure when olives were introduced, but as long as i can remember inside compression fittings. They normally start to leak if they have been disturbed (knocked, banged). This video is to help homeowners fix a leaking joint using simple techniques!
To protect your pipe when using a hacksaw, wrap each side of the olive with masking tape
Thanks for that good tip!
Flipping the tape roll the other way around makes it easier to apply it tight without ending up unspooling the entire roll.
Yeah, I realised after I made the film. Thanks for your tip and your comment 👍
LSX is a very good product for leaks
Yes, i have used it before byt only as a last resort. You're better fixing the issue instead of masking over it.
Tightening a compression joint without supporting the other side and using a 90 degree copper pipe as lever as it is in that first clip is not good practice. It puts a strain on the other compression joint, which can cause more leaks and you can even put a kink in the the copper tube.
The other side of the fitment should be supported so that you do not strain other joints. It doesn't matter if it's a brass fitting, like a 90 degree bend shown there, a valve or anything just supported by the copper pipe then support the fitment on both sides. Something like a set of large locking pliers works well as they can often been clamped in such a way that they bear against a surface, provide the appropriate degree of support and frees up a hand.
Also, for stubborn joint that won't seal, probably because the pipe has been slightly deformed, then a tiny smear of LSX works wonders. Some will use it pre-emptively, although I still feel that a proper compression joint, made properly, will not leak.
Hi, i did show an alternative to ptfe tape in the corner of the video using a jointing compound. Thanks for your comment
Thank you for great videos. How many millimeters must be left between edge of the olive and of the pipe? I'm starting my diy job soon.
Im not sure. You just need to make sure that the pipe is fully inserted into the fitting. Good luck with your diy job!
I always found copper olives where better as they are softer
Hi, i try and use a brass olive with a brass fitting and a copper olive with a copper fitting, but im not sure if it makes a difference!
What about telling the people to support the joint whilst tightening the nut to the joint ?
Yeah, I probably should have mentioned that, but because it was in my vice, i just got carried away 🤣
Have to redo the video and show people that they HAV to use 2 wrenches. The one u didn't show was the backer wrench to keep from ruining the other joint and or pipe when tightening. Also when installing in the first place, putting a vacuum grease on the ferrel to begin with does the job!
Thanks for your comment, i got away with using one wrench as it's an angle joint. However, if it was a coupler, i would indeed need two wrenches!
I've used compression for over 40 years, and have never had one leak, some are over 30 years old. They make a puller for the olive.
Thanks for your comment, i will have to get one!
i have a slow drip from a compression joint linking thin copper pipe to a towel radiator.the problem is when i grip the fitting in vice grips it flexes the thin pipe and i'm afraid it will break it if i put more pressure
That sounds like a micro bore pipe, usually 8mm or 10mm in diameter. If your scared of breaking the pipe or making it worse you could drain the water out if the heating system then put a new fitting on or as a temporary measure use something like this until you can get a plumber round amzn.to/3uWElRO
thanks for the advice,will give it a go@@FixitwithFowler
No problem, good luck!
so easy when there is no water in the pipe and when its a radiator pipe much more difficult but good video
Yes, i agree, it is only a demonstration. However, if you drain the water, it's exactly the same procedure
PTFE should only be used as a last resort and a temporary fix until you have the chance to repair the joint correctly using a new olive and jointing compound or other correct means. You did show the compound in the corner of the video so fair play. Just to highlight that PTFE is not good practice for using on compression joints and certainly not a permanent fix.
Thanks for your comment 👍
Hi there, thanks for this video, very useful! I've heard a lot of debate on brass vs copper olives... What's your take on this?
If possible, i would match the olive to the fitting, i.e., brass fitting= brass olive or copper fitting = copper fitting. Hope that helps you!
What bugs me is when the plumber creates a collar and the nut when released doesnt uncover the olive so you cant wrap the olive properly with PTFE tape.
move olive by running a shifter down the pipe to knock it down
Thanks for the tip!
Or solder on a 90 degree elbow
Yeah, you could do that if you had the equipment to do so.
You didn't show that when the olive was removed, the copper tube was scarred and dented by the compression of the olive. When you showed a new olive being installed you switched the copper tube for a new unscarred one. A new olive fitted to the original tube is not a reliable seal. Always use two spanners when tightening a compression joint, and count the turns. A compression joint seals by dimension, not by torque. You are a plumber and know a lot of quick fixes and that's fine, and many of them will last even though they are not quite "right". Thank you for sharing your tips.
It was the same bit of pipe and wasn't swapped out as it was in my vice. The fitting is just for demonstration purposes only, but you're right the olive can deform the pipe.
Ptfe should be used at start
There are better options than ptfe tape, but it's an option and definitely not a requirement!
If you release the tape the other way it's easier. Most people put PTFE on threads so when you tighten it it destroys the tape😮
Hi, i realised after that, i should have held the roll of tape the other way round to keep it tight as it came off the roll!
👍😎
Hi, thanks for your comment!
4th method is to flux and solder the whole jobby up!
Yeah definitely but a bit too advanced for most diyers.
I didn’t hear you say turn the water off first before removing the fitting. Not hating the video but maybe you should have mentioned this.
Good point, however as the pipe is in a vice I thought it was obvious there wasn't any water in the pipe
Haha yeah but yours is a reconstruction for dummies that don’t know any better. Iam just saying I could imagine someone having a leak , watch your video and have more of a leak.
@@FixitwithFowler❤
?Ha, yes you will always get those people 😂😂
If people are that stupid not to turn the water off then they shouldn't be doing plumbing.
Dump compression and move to push fit.
Definitely!
Did that and had two joints leak on me . The copper ones.
@@yesihavereadit if i use push fit i always use hep2o fittings. I have another video that covers how to join plastic and copper pipes
I've had one push fit fail in a loft before. No good in hard water areas as the seals will perish over time. Best to solder.
Hi, its definitely better to solder if possible however dod you know hep2o give a 50 year guarantee on there pipe/fittings if used together? Today's copper is so thin im sure it will perish before the 50 years.
My solution.
Wrap a hand towel round it and change it daily.
Lol, its a solution 🤣
I always use jointing compound., Jet Blue, V2 or similar when fitting compressions. Never get a leak.
Hi, i did show jointing compound as an alternative to ptfe tape. I made the ptfe tape an option really due to cost for people. Thanks for your comment!
❤🇺🇸💪
Thanks 😊
Tighten it
Show us how it’s done while laying on your back, working over your head, in a crawl space. In a real life circumstance.
This is just a demo, nothing more!
Never use PTFE tape on an olive. It only causes problems for the next time that fitting needs to be redone. If the Olive needs to be replaced then the tube will also need to be replaced (or shortened). Just because some "tricks" sometimes work, does not mean they should be used.
Thanks for your comment. Ptfe is an easy fix for the average DIYer. However, you are not correct about removing an olive as this is common practice.
@@FixitwithFowler Just because something is common practice does not mean it is a good practice. When an Olive is fitted to a tube the Tube and Olive both get deformed to a degree. Replacing the Olive without a fresh portion of Tube has an increased risk of failure. I agree that it can be successfull, but it should not be a recommended method. A lot of these type of "Quick Fixes" do often work They also often add additional effort when a "Propper" repair needs to be done. One issue I have with these "Quick Fix" options being shown like this is they are protrayed as good methods. The downside of this patch up is never mentioned.
Are you even a plumber?
@@ben7932 No, But I am a tradsman that has worked with fluid conductors for a long time. Pipes and Tubes are not exclusive to the Plumbing industry. I grew up on building sites and around Plumbers. My work background involves a lot of maintenance of a variety of things. These quick fixes often work but will usually create more effort/expence when proper repairs are to be done. Thank you for asking about my experiance on the subject.
Everyone has their own opinion, and thats what makes youtube discussons great. Don't forget that this is purely for plumbing (water) on copper pipe with the correct designed compression joints/fittings. It has no reference to anything else and is aimed to help people out of a situation and save money.
Your knuckle as a guide so you don't nick the end of the thumb if you slip much less painful
Brilliant 👏
There is call a plumber
Lol
Just use jointing compound from the start and youll never have a leaking compression fitting again
I agree, i did show that on the part with the ptfe tape. Thanks for your comment 👍
Which compound you recommend
I use a flomaster jointing compound from screwfix, but any jointing compound for as and water will be fine
never put compression fittings on dry without paste they may weap
Never use ptfe tape on a compression joint! Get a jointing paste like Hawk white or the potable alternative. Then tighten it up just enough. Don't overtighten tho, or you will crush the olive, and it won't seal.
Hi, thanks for your comment. That's why i included jointing compound as an alternative in the ptfe tape video (smaller video playing in the corner). Its good to show a few options to let people choose what suits them.
It's a brass olive, not copper.
It's a brass fitting, so the olive matches the fitting, not the pipe!
This video quality of view is reddish not clear please next time use natural or standard video resolution
This is an old video. Have a look at my newer videos, and you will see the difference.
The way you feed the teflon tape is backwards, mate. By truring it the Other wat you have the ability to add tension to the pipe with the tape. Also many people use adjustable wrenches like you showed in this video. Wrong! Always turn the wrench with the tightening rotation. You had it backwards. Great video though.
Thanks for the tips
I’m gonna try this. What do you mean? Isn’t it correct as it’s clockwise. Or do you mean having the underside on the tape facing up?
@leilanissmallholding Hi, it's the right way as in clockwise, but if you hold the tape the other way round, you can keep tension on the ptfe tape.
Boss Wight is better
I normally use plumbers mate, thanks for your comment 👍
Problem was no ptfe tape used as a proper plumber would do day one
You don't need it if the fitting is fitted correctly
You've got your tape the wrong way
Hi, the tape is wound the right way on the thread, but the roll of tape was backwards, which is why i was struggling to keep the ptfe tape tight.
The joint should be supported to prevent causing the same problem on the other olive 😏😏
Yeah, a lot of people have mentioned that, but it was only for demonstration, and i didn't think about mentioning it 🤔