This is really great. I'm finally getting back into some DIY and I've seen multiple posts showing how to rub out a finish last year. Today, I hit on yours and it is really good and comprehensive. You gave me a comprehensive overview and refresher in less than six minutes! Been working on a small antique end table for too long and tomorrow I will rub out the finish for a glass smooth feel. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm just a homeowner doing a dining table project and was having a hard time finding any good videos explaining this finish after using the polyurethane. You explained it very simply and thoroughly!
Thanks much for this. I do quick furniture restores and often need to put a couple of layers of poly on. When I get orange peel or other runs and blemishes I have usually been more aggressive to sand it out and start again. I need to work on doing each coat right and then incorporating some of these techniques. Much appreciated!
Thanks for all the info. I have two coats of pecan gloss poly stain on a storage bench I built out of birch veneer. I love the color and the grain just pops but there is a little roughness to the touch. After watching your video I have knowledge to go back and work the finish. I am super stoked to GIT ON IT! Thanks again!
Thankful found this. Four coats on, 600/800 W/D in between applications. Sitting around, brooding about finial finish. Found this video. Thank you so much. Beautiful 60" high quality mahogany table (Councill) table purchased for $5 with badly applied polyacrylic left table with dense white opaque finish. Stripped, cleaned, tacked, then using oil based stain and oil based poly for four coats. Not really pleased with last coating. Will follow through with this.
I followed the directions on the polyurethane can and made sure I apply with even brush strokes and it's still feel rough. I will try a wet 1000 grit sandpaper to flatten and smooth out the finish. Thanks
Great video. I finish most projects the way you describe using 400 grit between poly coats. I found I have to let poly dry about 3 times longer than the directions say or the sand paper clogs. Maybe the humidity where I'm at. Great looking book case!
After doing these steps on a dining table, how do I care for the table long term? Do I use cleaning products on the table or just soap and water. Just wondering how the paste wax will be effected. Thanks! These are great tips.
will this help with those little bubbles in mt dried polyurethane? My husband didnt see the bubbles and now they have dried looks terrible but Im scared of taking the color off
Definitely going to be doing this. My finish looks good, but I accidentally went over some spots that had already started to set with the brush and left very fine gouges that dried that way. You can only see it when the light hits the table just right but it bothers me
The best thing I've ever used is a horse hair shoe polishing brush with the wax. it gives a beautiful sheen rather than a shine.I saw a man in England doing it.
TY-Timmy! Were U using 0000 Steel Wool w/ the Soapy-Water like U did w/ the Wax @ End? What-Brand of TackCloth...I've always used the Tacky CheeseCloth...but Urs might be Better? Also, I picked up a 400-Grit Sponge @ AutoZone>what do U-Think? [I've got 3-Rolled-Coats of Semi-Gloss Poly, w/ bumpy 'Dust-Mites' & a Mosquito-Piece]
I'm not sure what kind of tack cloth I was using at the time. Possibly something just from lowes. 400 wet/dry paper works well wet and very lightly sanding.
Good video. I'm using Resisthane Plus Hydrocote, it's a precatalyzed lacquer, but water-bourne. I wonder how long the finish has to set before I can rub it out.
I start with 600, 800 1000 1500 2000 wet. I then use a heavy rubbing compound, polishing compound applied with three different round harbor freight 6” disch on my orbital sanders. Then finish with a cloth and other soft buffing pads and I’m still not satisfied.
Would your process help with this? I have 3 coats brushed on but the final coat looks uneven with some spots looking smooth and others looking a little rough.
Depends on the lines. I personally have found that if poly gets a defect in it that you have to sand off an entire level and redo it. Lacquer is much more forgiving to defects as a finish.
I've used this method on a couple of oil based stain and clear finish projects (coffee table and cabinet, both pine). Being a somewhat impatient person, I have only waited long enough for the final coat to dry. Of course I'm patient enough to wait until dry means dry, not 3-4 hours like it says on the back of the Varathane can. After the final clear coat, I waited two days before wet sanding the finish (I'm in approximately 18 Celsius and 50% humidity conditions). The results were excellent. I'm sure if you waited until it cured, the results would be equally as good.
What do you do about drips? I'm pretty new at this and I have 7 cabinets that I stained and coated with polyurethane. I put four coats of polyurethane on and I have the little bumps that you mentioned, but I also have some high spots/drips too. I've tried a little sanding and I end up removing some of the stain. Any advice would be so welcome. I really like your video too. You do a great job of explaining what you are doing and why. Thank you!
Usually if you get drip you are applying too heavy of coats. Go lighter and apply more coats. You may have to sand it down, stain what you removed and start applying again.
Very informative video, as a beginner could you suggest how I could apply a poly finish on a large piece like a mantel, I don't want it to drip on the sides and I don't have a sprayer. Any suggestion would be great.
I refinished a dining table with polyurethane spray, several coats. The sheen is perfect but I noticed a few dust nibs as well as a couple hairs from my new Pomsky puppy 🤦♀️. Would this process get those puppy hairs out of the finish or do I need to sand the whole thing and spray it again? Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. It was stained with Minwax dark walnut and polyurethane in a satin finish (not sure this matters). Thank you
I applied an oil based poly to a stained floor with a brush and it came out streaky.. some shiny and some dull spots. I applied a second coat thinking this would fix it and it’s still streaky! Any advice?
Sounds like your poly mix was to thick. Try thinning it out to a 50:50 ratio or 3 to 1 ratio. Water base just mix it with water if oil based mix with mineral spirits
I read that putting paste wax or any type of wax over polyurethane before 30 days letting it cure, is not a good idea. Do you ever see a problem with putting paste wax over the polyurethane coating? Thank you.
Slightly at first, but should buff back to a very high shine after. If this is the first time, make a small test piece and give it a go and see the result before doing on a final project. I have made many test pieces using left over lumber from scrap projects.
Never really got "wet" but here in Florida it was probably exposed to humidity.. It's been a closet hanger for a lot of years and now I'm trying to sell it. Makes it harder to sell in this condition. If it doesn't sell as-is for a decent price I'll be tempted to refinish it. Thanks for the advice.
I feel like you could just take a brown paper bag to it rather than go through all those steps/extra materials. Or maybe a fine synthetic abrasive pad.
I’m using a water-based polyurethane. I just did a table top and applied for coats with a brush, using 400 grit sandpaper in between. On the final coat, I’d like to get rid of the dust bumps yet still maintain a satin finish. If I wet-sand with 1000 grit sandpaper, will the surface look dull? I’m just trying to find a simple way to achieve a dust-free smooth satin finish! Also is there a good rule of thumb for how long to wait after the final coat has been applied before attempting to knock down the dust bumps?
Recently I have been using 0000 steel wool with paste wax. After the wax is rub in I buff out with rags. This has been working well and leaving a smooth finish and the gloss appearance comes back. I also wait 24-28 hrs after final coat before doing any wax/buffing.
Had the same problem and after watching some vids I discovered what was obvious: not apply the coats with a brush and instead wipe on using a 50/50 mix of satin poly and thinner, sand between coats and go with finer grits as coats increased (320, 400, 600 and 800). After the last one it stays satin, smooth and with no marks on it, far better than a brush (plus dries faster since it's heavily thinned).
Tack cloth can be used to remove dust from the surface of wood it can either be a damp cloth with a little water or a little bit of alcohol or some type of product it removes the Dust the term tack comes from the fact that dust will stick to the cloth when removing it
@@tylarwoodward9765 Yep, I think additives too. Marine poly is available. Just to clarify, I have a bookshelf and a keezer that get strong Arizona light every evening. Maybe their was something done wrong, finished outside, bad prep, etc.
I don't get it. The side of the bookcase looks dull, murky and blotchy after all that work. Either the lighting was terrible in this video, and we can't really see the actual result. Or this process is a joke, and not produced by a true professional.
It is the lighting. This was a very early on video and the quality of lighting was not very good. I will still use this process on projects with great results and the finish is very smooth as well.
this content was made on a tuesday, april 3rd 2018. steel wool shouldnt anywhere besides the shelves of store. i use 600 wet sand with a dash of dish soap after 2nd or 3rd coat. Then wait 2-3 days and so so so lightly wet sand with 1000g and mineral spirits. but glossy looks cheaps so never want to do it
Follow all the directions on the can,and it still turns out horrible.now you have to spend more money breathing in toxic fumes,from sanding.unless you have a $1,000 plus spray set up,it will look and feel bad.i hate wood.it belongs outside,with the rest of the leaves and yard waste.
Хобби
This is really great. I'm finally getting back into some DIY and I've seen multiple posts showing how to rub out a finish last year. Today, I hit on yours and it is really good and comprehensive. You gave me a comprehensive overview and refresher in less than six minutes! Been working on a small antique end table for too long and tomorrow I will rub out the finish for a glass smooth feel. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm just a homeowner doing a dining table project and was having a hard time finding any good videos explaining this finish after using the polyurethane. You explained it very simply and thoroughly!
Thanks much for this. I do quick furniture restores and often need to put a couple of layers of poly on. When I get orange peel or other runs and blemishes I have usually been more aggressive to sand it out and start again. I need to work on doing each coat right and then incorporating some of these techniques. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the video,I just finished an old rocking chair and I can feel a lot of gritty feeling and I’m going to try this tomorrow, thanks again
Wet dry sanding is all I needed. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for all the info. I have two coats of pecan gloss poly stain on a storage bench I built out of birch veneer. I love the color and the grain just pops but there is a little roughness to the touch. After watching your video I have knowledge to go back and work the finish. I am super stoked to GIT ON IT! Thanks again!
Thankful found this. Four coats on, 600/800 W/D in between applications. Sitting around, brooding about finial finish. Found this video. Thank you so much. Beautiful 60" high quality mahogany table (Councill) table purchased for $5 with badly applied polyacrylic left table with dense white opaque finish. Stripped, cleaned, tacked, then using oil based stain and oil based poly for four coats. Not really pleased with last coating. Will follow through with this.
Nicely done and explained. TY
I followed the directions on the polyurethane can and made sure I apply with even brush strokes and it's still feel rough. I will try a wet 1000 grit sandpaper to flatten and smooth out the finish. Thanks
Great info! Never seen that technique before. Thanks for sharing!
Great information and demonstration Timothy :) Thank you :)
Thank you!
Cool info ! Thanks for sharing! Take care! Peace from Welland Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Thanks for watching and stay warm up there...
Great video. I finish most projects the way you describe using 400 grit between poly coats. I found I have to let poly dry about 3 times longer than the directions say or the sand paper clogs. Maybe the humidity where I'm at. Great looking book case!
is your sandpaper the wet/dry and still clogging?
Yea but I don't wet sand between coats when building a finish. Do you? How long do you let the poly dry between coats?
Can you recommend a tack cloth that doesn't leave a waxy residue?
After doing these steps on a dining table, how do I care for the table long term? Do I use cleaning products on the table or just soap and water. Just wondering how the paste wax will be effected. Thanks! These are great tips.
Hardwood floors... I put my 3rd coat on by brush will the 1000 grit wet dry paper on a buffing machine get rid of the overlapping brush marks?
Will this work with water base poly?
Same process for water based poly?
What is 'paste wax'?
will this help with those little bubbles in mt dried polyurethane? My husband didnt see the bubbles and now they have dried looks terrible but Im scared of taking the color off
i put 3 coats of water base poly on my project is the enough coats to sand and polish ..?..
Excellent!
Definitely going to be doing this. My finish looks good, but I accidentally went over some spots that had already started to set with the brush and left very fine gouges that dried that way. You can only see it when the light hits the table just right but it bothers me
Can you do this with spar urethane
I buff with brown Kraft paper or a kitchen bag. Burnishes the surface beautifully.
Thanks, I was trying to remember something like that. Kitchen bag, it is!
Ooooo thx
Thumbnail had me worried, nice vid
The best thing I've ever used is a horse hair shoe polishing brush with the wax. it gives a beautiful sheen rather than a shine.I saw a man in England doing it.
Nice video. Going to try this on some tables I'm finishing with Minwax wipe on satin poly. How many coats of poly do you recommend?
3-4 coats with sanding in between.
Thanks for the tip! Will definitely try this. What grit exactly is the 0000 steel wool, as you used it after the 1000 grit sandpaper? Thx
0000 is 0000
Getting ready to rub out my wood
TY-Timmy! Were U using 0000 Steel Wool w/ the Soapy-Water like U did w/ the Wax @ End?
What-Brand of TackCloth...I've always used the Tacky CheeseCloth...but Urs might be Better?
Also, I picked up a 400-Grit Sponge @ AutoZone>what do U-Think? [I've got 3-Rolled-Coats of Semi-Gloss Poly, w/ bumpy 'Dust-Mites' & a Mosquito-Piece]
I'm not sure what kind of tack cloth I was using at the time. Possibly something just from lowes. 400 wet/dry paper works well wet and very lightly sanding.
I rubbed and rubbed and i finally finished.
I came to the same conclusion
Good video. I'm using Resisthane Plus Hydrocote, it's a precatalyzed lacquer, but water-bourne. I wonder how long the finish has to set before I can rub it out.
How do you like it? I was looking at something like this because it will dry fast and little to no smell.
Poly should cure two or three weeks, water based is probably faster, but more time is always better
Hey.... what kind of wax do you recommend for the final step? I'm looking forward to trying out your techniques! Thx
Bees or paste
I start with 600, 800 1000 1500 2000 wet. I then use a heavy rubbing compound, polishing compound applied with three different round harbor freight 6” disch on my orbital sanders. Then finish with a cloth and other soft buffing pads and I’m still not satisfied.
use epoxy.
Would your process help with this? I have 3 coats brushed on but the final coat looks uneven with some spots looking smooth and others looking a little rough.
I would sand it and then roll a coat on
can this same technique be used over painted and poly'd kitchen cabinets?
Always use on a test piece first to see the result
Will this process work to get line marks out of a water-based polyurethane finish?
Depends on the lines. I personally have found that if poly gets a defect in it that you have to sand off an entire level and redo it. Lacquer is much more forgiving to defects as a finish.
I may have missed it in the video, but is this something you do after the final coat dries OR after it cures?
I've used this method on a couple of oil based stain and clear finish projects (coffee table and cabinet, both pine). Being a somewhat impatient person, I have only waited long enough for the final coat to dry. Of course I'm patient enough to wait until dry means dry, not 3-4 hours like it says on the back of the Varathane can. After the final clear coat, I waited two days before wet sanding the finish (I'm in approximately 18 Celsius and 50% humidity conditions). The results were excellent. I'm sure if you waited until it cured, the results would be equally as good.
I'm staining my kitchen cabinets but need to strip them first[ what is the best way to do so. Any thoughts?
Paint stripper to remove everything.
What do you do about drips? I'm pretty new at this and I have 7 cabinets that I stained and coated with polyurethane. I put four coats of polyurethane on and I have the little bumps that you mentioned, but I also have some high spots/drips too. I've tried a little sanding and I end up removing some of the stain. Any advice would be so welcome. I really like your video too. You do a great job of explaining what you are doing and why. Thank you!
Usually if you get drip you are applying too heavy of coats. Go lighter and apply more coats. You may have to sand it down, stain what you removed and start applying again.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop Thank you for responding. Looks like I have some work to do!
You will get it.
Very informative video, as a beginner could you suggest how I could apply a poly finish on a large piece like a mantel, I don't want it to drip on the sides and I don't have a sprayer. Any suggestion would be great.
If you are brushing it on, watch for drips. You can catch them early on and brush them back. Thinner layers will also help with no drips.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop Wipe On Poly...
I refinished a dining table with polyurethane spray, several coats. The sheen is perfect but I noticed a few dust nibs as well as a couple hairs from my new Pomsky puppy 🤦♀️. Would this process get those puppy hairs out of the finish or do I need to sand the whole thing and spray it again? Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. It was stained with Minwax dark walnut and polyurethane in a satin finish (not sure this matters). Thank you
I believe you would have to sand down. Poly is very unforgiving where as lacquer you can sand a bit and get good results still.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop Thank you so much for your response! I’ll give it one more shot.
Did you wet sand with 600 grit between coats of poly or just straight sand paper?
Wet is best
Wet sanding between coats with 600 grit using mineral spirits as your lubrication.
7 coats of sprayed on poly... here I am sitting with 2 coats of brushed on considering being done lol
🤣
I applied an oil based poly to a stained floor with a brush and it came out streaky.. some shiny and some dull spots. I applied a second coat thinking this would fix it and it’s still streaky! Any advice?
May have to sand it down to the wood again. What did you sand it with to begin with?
Sounds like your poly mix was to thick. Try thinning it out to a 50:50 ratio or 3 to 1 ratio. Water base just mix it with water if oil based mix with mineral spirits
I read that putting paste wax or any type of wax over polyurethane before 30 days letting it cure, is not a good idea. Do you ever see a problem with putting paste wax over the polyurethane coating? Thank you.
Never
Hi I tried wet sanding with 400g but for some reason I've gotten these white streaks, not sure what I'm doing wrong
Is the finish completely dry when you have these streaks?
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop How long do your recommend for "completely dry"
Will this dull out a semi gloss finish?
Slightly at first, but should buff back to a very high shine after. If this is the first time, make a small test piece and give it a go and see the result before doing on a final project. I have made many test pieces using left over lumber from scrap projects.
I've got an acoustic guitar with a poly finish that got cloudy in a lot of spots. Do you know of any product or method to correct this?
If a poly finish get ruin you have to start all over. I would sand down the side that got cloudy and reapply some new coats. Did it get wet?
Never really got "wet" but here in Florida it was probably exposed to humidity.. It's been a closet hanger for a lot of years and now I'm trying to sell it. Makes it harder to sell in this condition. If it doesn't sell as-is for a decent price I'll be tempted to refinish it. Thanks for the advice.
I feel like you could just take a brown paper bag to it rather than go through all those steps/extra materials. Or maybe a fine synthetic abrasive pad.
could you use car buffer with mirror glaze
Have not tried that, but wanted to
What sanding grit did you use before poly ? Thanks 👍👌
I usually go up to 220.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop ok thank you
You never mentioned the grade of the steelwool.
0000 is the grade I use
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop Thanks. I just finished a project and looked at the video for some pointers on the final process. It was a big help.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop And you DID mention 4-ott.
Should this work on guitars?
Yes, same principals apply
I’m using a water-based polyurethane. I just did a table top and applied for coats with a brush, using 400 grit sandpaper in between. On the final coat, I’d like to get rid of the dust bumps yet still maintain a satin finish. If I wet-sand with 1000 grit sandpaper, will the surface look dull? I’m just trying to find a simple way to achieve a dust-free smooth satin finish!
Also is there a good rule of thumb for how long to wait after the final coat has been applied before attempting to knock down the dust bumps?
spleerfloof i want the same answer. I'm using oil based poly. And i want the dust bumps out
Recently I have been using 0000 steel wool with paste wax. After the wax is rub in I buff out with rags. This has been working well and leaving a smooth finish and the gloss appearance comes back. I also wait 24-28 hrs after final coat before doing any wax/buffing.
Had the same problem and after watching some vids I discovered what was obvious: not apply the coats with a brush and instead wipe on using a 50/50 mix of satin poly and thinner, sand between coats and go with finer grits as coats increased (320, 400, 600 and 800). After the last one it stays satin, smooth and with no marks on it, far better than a brush (plus dries faster since it's heavily thinned).
@@jellyg.8961 You say that you don't apply the polyurethane with a brush. Are you applying it by rubbing it in with sandpaper?
@@mckenziekeith7434 I apply it with a rag, wait for it to dry, sand it, clean and apply again.
I'm from the UK. What is 'tack cloth'?
It's basically a cheesecloth with a sticky substance on it to help pick up small particles of dust or sanding residue
You can use microfibre fine
Tack cloth can be used to remove dust from the surface of wood it can either be a damp cloth with a little water or a little bit of alcohol or some type of product it removes the Dust the term tack comes from the fact that dust will stick to the cloth when removing it
I am watching this wondering if using a car buffer would work.
Always worth a try on some scrap wood
Don't sand...especially with water...polish with a buffer instead.
Reason?
I let the poly cure and use a buffing compound to clear up imperfections and puts a glassy shine to it.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop Wet-sanding works fine for me. 1000 grit or finer.
Trolley The Troll To each his own. Both processes work.
Living in Arizona I never use Poly products. Even the sunshine through the windows destroys poly!
Never had that problem. Never
There's uv safe poly
@@tylarwoodward9765 Yep, I think additives too. Marine poly is available. Just to clarify, I have a bookshelf and a keezer that get strong Arizona light every evening. Maybe their was something done wrong, finished outside, bad prep, etc.
#unintentionalASMR
BRB going to rub one out. Lol
Jk
heh, rub your finish out, heh
😁
I don't get it. The side of the bookcase looks dull, murky and blotchy after all that work. Either the lighting was terrible in this video, and we can't really see the actual result. Or this process is a joke, and not produced by a true professional.
It is the lighting. This was a very early on video and the quality of lighting was not very good. I will still use this process on projects with great results and the finish is very smooth as well.
this content was made on a tuesday, april 3rd 2018. steel wool shouldnt anywhere besides the shelves of store. i use 600 wet sand with a dash of dish soap after 2nd or 3rd coat. Then wait 2-3 days and so so so lightly wet sand with 1000g and mineral spirits. but glossy looks cheaps so never want to do it
Way too much overkill !!!
Follow all the directions on the can,and it still turns out horrible.now you have to spend more money breathing in toxic fumes,from sanding.unless you have a $1,000 plus spray set up,it will look and feel bad.i hate wood.it belongs outside,with the rest of the leaves and yard waste.