0:16 "...something you made and polyurethaned yourself go from GOOD to PERFECT".... Or in my case, to get from "honestly pretty bad" to "surprisingly very good." Excellent suggestion, made a huge difference.
This video saved the day for me. I built a Cherry dinning room table for my wife and was struggling with the clear topcoat. I was forced to use waterborne Polyurethane due to winter time workshop with apartment over the garage. I was not able to get a clear finish that would represent the Cherry well, that was until I saw this video. I put on 3 coats of the clear semigloss poly and sanded and finished as Blair suggested and it is now perfect. I feel I have the protection from incidental spills from the poly and the rich natuaral finish using the wax on top. Thanks for sharing this method of finish..............
Thank you Blair was fighting a butcher block finish with watco block oil couldn't get it to even out. Your dad's method worked perfectly. I am a fellow citizen from St Clair Shores, spent 38 years there. Last 17 in California. Thank you again.
I tried this wonderful technique last night and got fantastic results! Polished a walnut bar top which was finished with lacquer. Achieved an even, satiny sheen that feels almost velvety to the touch. Thanks a bunch for sharing this technique!
I followed the advice from a couple of other RUclips videos and got swirls in the finish on my dining table. I used Mr. Hardware's method and my table looks so much better. Thank you, Mr. Hardware!
I just have to post a comment to say thank you so much for this excellent tip using the two different grades of steel wool (00 and 0000) when applying the wax polish. I normally use a liquid polyurethane applied with a brush, but because I'm refinishing a very long, low dresser (9 drawer), I didn't want to chance brush strokes being visible due to not being able to maintain a wet edge. I thought I'd try going the wax polish method but had never tried it before. After my first application, I noticed it was blotchy, you could see it was uneven. After watching your video, I went back and used your two step method with the steel wool and it turned out beautiful. Silky smooth and an even appearance. Simply beautiful. Thank you so very much for sharing that. Cheers, Gabrielle
Thank you so much! As a first timer staining and finishing a butcher block tabletop, this video saved my project. I was frustrated with the results I was getting, even after tediously following the directions of how to apply polyurethane. This made the coat even and beautiful. Thank you, sir.
yes clearly Blair knows what he's talking about and has mastered this process without any issues. I have bought quite a few pieces "refinished" by amateurs who put a spotty finish on the wood. Using the wax really makes the poorly done job look professional. As Blair indicates ... it does take time but it take the furniture to a whole new level.
I recently refinished a table that belonged to my grandmother. I use a homemade wiping poly, 50/50 oil based polyurethane and mineral spirits, wiping on with rags. After curing a few days, i polished the top with #0000 steel wool and melted coconut oil as a lubricant. Wiped off the oil and polished lightly with rubbing compound. Came out perfect!
Just finished my walnut butcher block island using this method after sealing with satin finish waterlox. This was the exact look I was hoping to achieve. Thank you for the video!
Crystal clear and bold voice. very useful for a person searching for a method of using wax polish on wood. Great presentation in a short time. Regards Vishwanath
Wonderful Video, just reworked a couple of sticky tables in my cafe. I got a little past the finish in a couple of spots, but tables are now super smooth and my hand slides across them with ease. I'm sure my customers will notice tomorrow. thank you for sharing your expertise!
Great video and thanks for showing the difference on both sides in the right angle in the light. That was the most beneficial part as well as the technique. Thanks for taking the time.
Love your site and tips. Going to order some stuff cause I support independent merchants over big boxes. I grew up in 84 lumber as a kid following my dad everywhere lol.
I’m truly amazed the amount of labor it takes to refinish wood like this. I thought it an elementary easy process. This is a lot of work in retrospect. We’re used to just buying it w/o considering others toil. Thanks for this.
Excellent, I have been searching for this information on RUclips for quite a while and could not find how to get the dust out of water-based satin polyurethane. All the other videos I saw were talking about creating a high-gloss finish which I didn’t want. I wanted to maintain a satin finish. Thank you!
WOW WOW WOW . Went on RUclips to see if there was a way to get brush strokes out of table tops that I finish. Saw this story and now my work looks great. Not only does it get out the little dust bugs but actually gets out the brush strokes, Never would have thought that steel wool would be the answer, Thanks a ton
Thank you, the exact video I had been looking for, and not another like it. Working on blk walnut, first 2 coats went on beautiful, now I’m on 6&7 and leaving streaks every time, only reason for so many coats. Just can’t get it right. Tried paint thinner and 800 grit, then refinished but no luck, still streaks. Hoping this works, letting table cure few more days. Thank you for making this, just the advice I was looking for. Will follow up when complete.
Joe...while your post was 3-years ago. I'm curious if you ever found out what caused your streaking issues? I've run into the same problem with my Minwax Wipe-On Poly (6-7 total coats). I think I may have to strip the table, but hoping you might have another option(s). Thank you!
Any idea what to do with stained timber table top with oil wax and issue is it has excess feeling of wax and stickiness which I would remove and smooth it out
Try using paint thinner on a rag first. That usually is a great way to remove excess wax. Somethings stronger that will work but probably will remove some of the stain is acetone used the same way.
I can’t say, but over the years, I’ve used different brands and types of wax. The important thing is that it lubricants the steel wool so it doesn’t scratch the varnished surface.
Is there any drying time between the first buffing coat (00) and the final buffing coat (0000)? Awesome instructional video, with some added tips/wisdom in between! 👍🏼
Mr. Hardware...thank you for this video, so clear and instructional. Question? I have a dark espresso colored tabletop with protective clear coat (bought from a higher end furniture company). There are two areas on the surface with scratches and white heat marks. It is a quarter sawn oak wood with espresso finish. Will this method of mineral spirits, 00 steel wool and paste wax (natural), then 0000 steel wool work on this this project? Thank you so much. Also, love St. Clair! My best friend lived on Lake St. Clair in Harrison Township. Visited many times, both sunny and frozen. We always went to Luigi"s and got calamari steak. Miss those days. Thank you for your help.
@@stephaniebenbenek4187 usually the ring should be addressed first. Low heat, toothpaste, mayonnaise (yup) and others because typically the stain is deeper in the finish than the wax can reach.
Great Video! By chance why cant you just put the steel wool on the 0000 steel wool and immediately buff it in with that? Wiping off excess after? Is there a real need for 00 steel wool to be used
00 is used only to remove any blemishes in the finish that are proud of the surface. Sometimes I use 400 wet before waxing. It flattens the surface when used with a block.
I have a table constructed of old barnwood that has been finished with 'French wax' over a light walnut stain. I notice the finish easily comes off when i run a sleeve or dry napkin over it. Also has a very pungent smell that won't fade. Any advice? Can I use mineral spirits and rewax?
I yes mineral spirits be a good choice to remove the old finish. I’d be tempted to wipe on a coat or 2 of Tungoil first to seal the stain and then steel wool wax over the top of that.
I have a pair of Klipsch K-Horns in birch with lite Cherry stain and five coat lacquer finish. They are in a basement with a lot of spiders and one speaker has a fair amount of droppings. I used a polish that took the obvious to the eye away but running your hand over the wood you can feel tiny bumps. Would the wax and 0000 completely remove them? To me they are fine-looking clean but it's time to sell them and I need the feel to match the condition. Near Mint for a 1983 speaker set.
any ideas on what finish i can use on a just sanded piece of dark wood? I want to keep the natural slightly dull shade and don't want that deep dark grain enhance warmness that oil gives. I want it to look likes it been just sanded but then be slightly protected from UV or oxidation etc... Any ideas? its a display cabinet so very low wear
I use lots of paint thinner and a fine scotch pad to remove wax. To make sure you got any residue left behind you could try using acetone as a final wash because not much be left on that surface but polyurethane after you clean it with acetone. But it would be my second step not the first.
Going through the comments to see if anyone tried this on oil based painted counters? I’ve just finished my kitchen cabinets in white and want to get an ultra smooth finish. Will the wax work on solvent based paint?
@@fariedl wow, I’d try a corner and block sand w/600 grit and the something higher like 1,000 to 1,500 grit. Use water and sand lightly. Or instead get a water based clear epoxy for a finish. That might sand smoother than oil based (enamel) paint. Thin the final coat as thin as instructions allow so it flattens right out.
I would have to try it to confirm. However being as hard and durable as it appears there should be no problem. I would test an inconspicuous area first.
Actually I consider varathane to be a premium polyurethane. Very durable product. The paint thinner is used as a lubricant when fine sanding, using a grit 400 or finer so it does not leave any scratches as opposed to sanding dry, which is almost as good a job. I've used water also. Paint thinner (mineral spirits) will not remove or soften any finishes I have used it on short of a very old shellac.
Thank you for reaching back to me. I’m making a 9 foot tall barn door for my son to put in his new house. Varathane is actually the brand name. Sorry, I guess it is a polyurethane. On one side of this door is a bathroom and the other there bedroom. The bathrooms probably bigger than my house. I know I needed to seal it but wasn’t to concerned about moisture. I put 5 coats of the poly on each side. I saw that you sanded it with the thinner. I didn’t do that because I was worried the thinner would get between the cracks of this Alder clear I used. ( Back yard wood worker, what did we do before RUclips and you. Thanks by the way.) So I started hand buffing with the 00 steel wool and paste wax but I can still see brush marks. It looks good and has a consistent shine and nobody but me would notice. The door isn’t warped but it’s not perfect. I’m just scared to put the thinner on it.
Question hope you read this soon.. i built a walnut table top .. sanded 120,220, water pop ,, sand 220, 400 water pop 400.. then cleaned with tack cloth .. then we rubbed on tried and true finish .. table looks amazing .. the guy at the store told me to burnish with steel wool (how i came across your video) use the tried and true again .. which I will add second coat tonight .. in your video you said it needs several coats of finish before adding paste wax .. how many coats of the tried and true varnish before I try the paste wax .. or is that for a diff process from what I’m doing ? Thanks for the tips .. I don’t want to mess up my new table
Looks like you have a super smooth table. If it’s not going to get abused you can wax right over the bare wood. If I want to abuse it (drinks, food, etc.) I’d thin the first coat of varnish (varnish, polyurethane, tung oil) 10 to 15% and second coat at full strength (although I did just finish a wood swing and I thinned the final coat 5% so it would lay down smoother). Depending on the density of the wood 2 coats of finish may provide a good base to wax over.
@@MrHardware1 ok sounds good thanks for the quick reply.. yeah I did the second coat last night .. I’ll prob let cure for a couple of days before doing the wax .. yeah this this a dining table and will get used ..
@@MrHardware1Maybe I did something wrong. After doing the thinner w 400 grit, the surface was a little pastie. It did kot seem like it would wipe dry very easily so I let it dry then used a tac cloth to remove the white dust that was left. The video was fantastic. It would have been good to see this part too. Thanks..
I bought Liberon polish remover and they recommend using steel wool 0000 to apply. The result is it left scratches on a very nice dining table. Maybe I didn’t soak the wool enough. Will this technique help me get rid of these wool micro scratches? The table has the factory coats of varnish and PU. Thanks J
Thank you! I keep getting streaks with satin polyurethane, gonna sand it lightly and apply the paste wax, from what youve shown, that should make the whole difference@MrHardware1
Yes, but you’ll have to be consistent in your efforts so not to get multiple sheen’s. There is satin and even matt products you could use as a final coat that will result in a lower sheen.
Hi, I recently bought a 2nd hand table. The previous owner had sanded and refinished the table but i"m not sure what he used to seal it, if anything. It has a sheen but seems porous. I'd like to make the table more indestructible to water stains. This seems like it would help. Will this stop water ring stains? thanks
A coat or 2 (or 3) of a satin poly urethane finish will seal the wood to protect it, then the wax trick makes it a smoother finish and even more durable. Wax on open wood is not very protective.
I went to but the things, I did it on my end table it didn't work, the steel wool left marks on the wood and some areas are shine and others are not...what I am doing wrong? I just think I ruined my end table .Help please
I think your table may not of had enough varnish or sealer on it before you waxed. Wax won’t run a table you may have to take some paint thinner and some steel wall and remove all the wax, possibly two times and I bet you need to put a coat or two of polyurethane on the table to seal the wood first. The wax won’t make up for lack of varnish or sealer.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
I would apply the additional two coats of lacquer before doing any sanding at all. I do not like all the dust and cleanup every time I sand a project plus I prefer to build up a little bit of product to protect my stain before I start sanding. This way, I typically only sand just before my final coat of finish and that way, I sand it very, very well. I dusted very very well and I’m very particular about no one coming around and nothing creating any dust when I put on my last coat. I think you’ll find some of the end grain is more porous than other portions of the wood so your dull and gloss areas are due to absorption not your stain, as far as I can tell from here.
@@MrHardware1 Thanks a lot, this was very helpful! I’ll try to continue tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes )) I think I will still sand it very lightly trying not to damage dyed layer, so the next poly coat holds better. Cheers!
@@MrHardware1 Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind.
I would still suggest a water-based polyurethane or water-based varnish to go over the stain to seal it, and give the wax something to work against. If this surface is not to be used and is mostly for art, then you could probably just put the wax right over the stain but it’s not very durable on it’s own.
Did you wait in between applying with 00 and buffing off with 0000? I applied this technique to a Birch plywood desk top after poly dried and it worked beautifully. I applied the same technique to a multi board pine coffee table top and when I buffed with 0000 it got a little gunky and pieces of the steel wool was coming off. I then applied major elbow grease which seemed to work, but I hope I didn't just take the wax layer off!
How did you apply the 5 coats of polyurethane? Did you spray it on and dry sanded in between? What grit did you use? How long did you wait between coats? By the looks, it was a satin poly?
I usually apply my polyurethane within 24 hours of the prior coat. That way I don’t need to sand in between coats and create dust Every time I do a coat. Once I get ready for my last coat is when I sand extremely well with 220 or finer sandpaper, and then crazily dust the room in the area I’m working besides changing my clothes and washing my hairy arms. When the coat goes on no one gets to come and see what I’m doing and once I’m done, I turn out the lights and hit the road until tomorrow. Then let it dry 2 to 3 days or more until it is getting near it finished hardness and then is when I’ll steel wool wax it to take care of any flaws that got into my last coat.
Amazing video sharing some tribal wisdom. Mineral spirits leaves a white residue after drying. Should you wipe with a cloth or just leave it and begin applying the wax with steel wool? Curious because I didn’t see any mention of what should be done between mineral spirits and sanding step and the paste wax application…
I would definitely buff off the white residue with the soft, clean towel before applying any wax. No need to add any foreign materials into the finish.
The white rings may come out with mineral spirits and fine steel wool. If you use alcohol or acetone you can remove the rings but you will need to re-varnish or polyurethane the surface before waxing. You may even need to restain to restore the color.
I believe you can. Usually finishers use it with a soft cloth and are critical of keeping it clean. I’m using finishing wax as a lubricant when steelwooling a varnish/polyurethane project to a smoother finish. The residue from the steel wool may leave ‘color’ in the finish…..
do you have to have put lacquer on top to do this wax finish? I wanted to just apply oil to my shelf in refinishing, would i get this same result over an oil finish if i buffed the shelf with wax and steel wool?
Sarah, nothing goes onto the wax, plus nothing will stick to it. The wax on a finish is more durable and will last longer than wax on wood alone. Wax alone will require refinishing about every 5 years.
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0:16 "...something you made and polyurethaned yourself go from GOOD to PERFECT".... Or in my case, to get from "honestly pretty bad" to "surprisingly very good." Excellent suggestion, made a huge difference.
This video saved the day for me. I built a Cherry dinning room table for my wife and was struggling with the clear topcoat. I was forced to use waterborne Polyurethane due to winter time workshop with apartment over the garage. I was not able to get a clear finish that would represent the Cherry well, that was until I saw this video. I put on 3 coats of the clear semigloss poly and sanded and finished as Blair suggested and it is now perfect. I feel I have the protection from incidental spills from the poly and the rich natuaral finish using the wax on top. Thanks for sharing this method of finish..............
Just what I needed to see. Thanks for passing on this tip!
Thank you Blair was fighting a butcher block finish with watco block oil couldn't get it to even out.
Your dad's method worked perfectly.
I am a fellow citizen from St Clair Shores, spent 38 years there. Last 17 in California. Thank you again.
I tried this wonderful technique last night and got fantastic results! Polished a walnut bar top which was finished with lacquer. Achieved an even, satiny sheen that feels almost velvety to the touch. Thanks a bunch for sharing this technique!
I followed the advice from a couple of other RUclips videos and got swirls in the finish on my dining table. I used Mr. Hardware's method and my table looks so much better. Thank you, Mr. Hardware!
I just have to post a comment to say thank you so much for this excellent tip using the two different grades of steel wool (00 and 0000) when applying the wax polish. I normally use a liquid polyurethane applied with a brush, but because I'm refinishing a very long, low dresser (9 drawer), I didn't want to chance brush strokes being visible due to not being able to maintain a wet edge. I thought I'd try going the wax polish method but had never tried it before. After my first application, I noticed it was blotchy, you could see it was uneven. After watching your video, I went back and used your two step method with the steel wool and it turned out beautiful. Silky smooth and an even appearance. Simply beautiful. Thank you so very much for sharing that. Cheers, Gabrielle
Thank you for this! I just finished restoring a wooden Modernica dinette table top and now I know how to make a very good job truly outstanding.
I tried this method on an antique table and the result is absolutely amazing. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much! As a first timer staining and finishing a butcher block tabletop, this video saved my project. I was frustrated with the results I was getting, even after tediously following the directions of how to apply polyurethane. This made the coat even and beautiful. Thank you, sir.
We all love a WIN! Blair
I used this method on coffee table I restored. Thank you so much the results are amazing and so inexpensive!
yes clearly Blair knows what he's talking about and has mastered this process without any issues. I have bought quite a few pieces "refinished" by amateurs who put a spotty finish on the wood. Using the wax really makes the poorly done job look professional. As Blair indicates ... it does take time but it take the furniture to a whole new level.
I recently refinished a table that belonged to my grandmother. I use a homemade wiping poly, 50/50 oil based polyurethane and mineral spirits, wiping on with rags.
After curing a few days, i polished the top with #0000 steel wool and melted coconut oil as a lubricant. Wiped off the oil and polished lightly with rubbing compound.
Came out perfect!
@@MrMjrob there’s always someone showing we up! Nice method, I bet it’s perfect.
Just finished my walnut butcher block island using this method after sealing with satin finish waterlox. This was the exact look I was hoping to achieve.
Thank you for the video!
Crystal clear and bold voice. very useful for a person searching for a method of using wax polish on wood. Great presentation in a short time.
Regards
Vishwanath
Wow, last shot of the difference you accomplished was amazing! Absolutely beautiful!
Wonderful Video, just reworked a couple of sticky tables in my cafe. I got a little past the finish in a couple of spots, but tables are now super smooth and my hand slides across them with ease. I'm sure my customers will notice tomorrow. thank you for sharing your expertise!
Just used this method on a 2x6 glued tabletop I built and it made a huge difference.
I used this method to finish my tabletop. Looks amazing. Thanks for the video!
Im doing Mine now
Great video and thanks for showing the difference on both sides in the right angle in the light. That was the most beneficial part as well as the technique. Thanks for taking the time.
Love your site and tips. Going to order some stuff cause I support independent merchants over big boxes. I grew up in 84 lumber as a kid following my dad everywhere lol.
fantastic, no-gimmick craftsmanship! Keep these tips coming.
thank you, thank you
I’m truly amazed the amount of labor it takes to refinish wood like this. I thought it an elementary easy process. This is a lot of work in retrospect. We’re used to just buying it w/o considering others toil. Thanks for this.
I pretty much do the same thing with the Mini shelves that I make but it takes several hours to make it right but after that it is sweet❤
Excellent, I have been searching for this information on RUclips for quite a while and could not find how to get the dust out of water-based satin polyurethane. All the other videos I saw were talking about creating a high-gloss finish which I didn’t want. I wanted to maintain a satin finish. Thank you!
WOW WOW WOW . Went on RUclips to see if there was a way to get brush strokes out of table tops that I finish. Saw this story and now my work looks great. Not only does it get out the little dust bugs but actually gets out the brush strokes, Never would have thought that steel wool would be the answer, Thanks a ton
Awesome suggestion! Worked great...Thank you!
I tried this. Amazing! It works.
Thank you Sir, great tip from an expert
Thank you, the exact video I had been looking for, and not another like it. Working on blk walnut, first 2 coats went on beautiful, now I’m on 6&7 and leaving streaks every time, only reason for so many coats. Just can’t get it right. Tried paint thinner and 800 grit, then refinished but no luck, still streaks. Hoping this works, letting table cure few more days. Thank you for making this, just the advice I was looking for. Will follow up when complete.
Please do, Blair
Joe...while your post was 3-years ago. I'm curious if you ever found out what caused your streaking issues? I've run into the same problem with my Minwax Wipe-On Poly (6-7 total coats). I think I may have to strip the table, but hoping you might have another option(s). Thank you!
That is a beautiful piece of wood.
Thanks for the most important tip of the day with how to finish out a great poly job 😎👍🏼
Mr Gilbert has been around the block a time or two. Good info for people needing help with furniture finishing.
Hello Mr Hardware , my hat goes off to my friend. Pure class video. I'm stunned. Excellent job. Kind regards Danny UK
Thanks mate, we love the great comments. Blair and Tim
Just tried this method and it was flawless! Thanks!
Great tip! Beautiful final product! Thanks for sharing the wisdom!
Wow! I will definitely be doing this.
Any idea what to do with stained timber table top with oil wax and issue is it has excess feeling of wax and stickiness which I would remove and smooth it out
Try using paint thinner on a rag first. That usually is a great way to remove excess wax. Somethings stronger that will work but probably will remove some of the stain is acetone used the same way.
Did you wait for the wax to dry at all before buffing the wax out with 0000 wool?
Yes I do, but not over 5 minutes. If it sets and get too firm it is a pain to buff.
Nicely done.
Thank you Master! You are the one!. Cheers
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
AWESOME SIR
What’s the difference between Minwax paste wax and any other paste wax such as Howard’s paste wax?
I can’t say, but over the years, I’ve used different brands and types of wax. The important thing is that it lubricants the steel wool so it doesn’t scratch the varnished surface.
Is there any drying time between the first buffing coat (00) and the final buffing coat (0000)? Awesome instructional video, with some added tips/wisdom in between! 👍🏼
No, the wax may cure out after a while but I never wait over an hour or so.
I have a beautiful solid rosewood table that has some cloudiness in the varnish. Will this steel wool/wax combination remove this? Thanks in advance.
We use 'Restor A Finish' by Howards Products with fine steel wool. It removes rings perfectly.
Mr. Hardware...thank you for this video, so clear and instructional. Question? I have a dark espresso colored tabletop with protective clear coat (bought from a higher end furniture company). There are two areas on the surface with scratches and white heat marks. It is a quarter sawn oak wood with espresso finish. Will this method of mineral spirits, 00 steel wool and paste wax (natural), then 0000 steel wool work on this this project? Thank you so much. Also, love St. Clair! My best friend lived on Lake St. Clair in Harrison Township. Visited many times, both sunny and frozen. We always went to Luigi"s and got calamari steak. Miss those days. Thank you for your help.
@@stephaniebenbenek4187 usually the ring should be addressed first. Low heat, toothpaste, mayonnaise (yup) and others because typically the stain is deeper in the finish than the wax can reach.
Thank you.
Can you use mineral spirits on a table varnished with water-based varnish?
@@pamelalombard1963 typically yes as long as the varnish is dry several days.
Great Video! By chance why cant you just put the steel wool on the 0000 steel wool and immediately buff it in with that? Wiping off excess after? Is there a real need for 00 steel wool to be used
00 is used only to remove any blemishes in the finish that are proud of the surface. Sometimes I use 400 wet before waxing. It flattens the surface when used with a block.
@@blairgilbert7606 Thank you! Very helpful
Great job! Also loved the suspenders ...............
I have a table constructed of old barnwood that has been finished with 'French wax' over a light walnut stain. I notice the finish easily comes off when i run a sleeve or dry napkin over it. Also has a very pungent smell that won't fade. Any advice? Can I use mineral spirits and rewax?
I yes mineral spirits be a good choice to remove the old finish. I’d be tempted to wipe on a coat or 2 of Tungoil first to seal the stain and then steel wool wax over the top of that.
I only have daddy van's furniture polish wax. Can I use it for this?
@@ask43242flight if it’s a paste wax I’d say yes, however I don’t recognize the name or product.
This is a very informative video. Thanks for posting it.
I just bought the Minwax Paste. Can I use this and the wool steel on my hardwood floors to seal it?
Pretty tough job to do to a whole room floor. It’s hard enough work doing just a table top. It does make for a great job though.
Can I do the same wax with a laquer finish
Thank you so much for posting! Extremely helpful!!!
I have a pair of Klipsch K-Horns in birch with lite Cherry stain and five coat lacquer finish. They are in a basement with a lot of spiders and one speaker has a fair amount of droppings. I used a polish that took the obvious to the eye away but running your hand over the wood you can feel tiny bumps. Would the wax and 0000 completely remove them? To me they are fine-looking clean but it's time to sell them and I need the feel to match the condition. Near Mint for a 1983 speaker set.
It should work fine. An option would be to use lemon oil and 0000 to reduce buildup of wax.
This is great but what can I do with water based polyurethane? Can I do everything except the mineral spirits/ thinner?
Sure, if you’re using water based polyurethane use a damp rag to check the finish and pre-dust the surface.
But what if I do get a piece of dust in it is there anything I can put on it or do? Like Minwax or something?
any ideas on what finish i can use on a just sanded piece of dark wood? I want to keep the natural slightly dull shade and don't want that deep dark grain enhance warmness that oil gives. I want it to look likes it been just sanded but then be slightly protected from UV or oxidation etc... Any ideas? its a display cabinet so very low wear
Try satin or mat water born polyurethane . It darkens wood grain the least. One thin coat may be all you need.
If you wanted to put more coats of polyurathane on in the future after you put the wax, could you? And if you cant how can you get it off so you can?
I use lots of paint thinner and a fine scotch pad to remove wax. To make sure you got any residue left behind you could try using acetone as a final wash because not much be left on that surface but polyurethane after you clean it with acetone. But it would be my second step not the first.
Can i use upper in liquor?
Can this be done on a table that’s been cured with Odies oil?
@@tammywalla7259 as long as the finish is hard enough. I’m not familiar with/Odies but I would try wax on the edge of the table to test.
Holy Cow I am impressed !!
Thanks so much for sharing this !!
Thank you for your reply! Will let you know how it works out.
Absolutely superb!
Going through the comments to see if anyone tried this on oil based painted counters? I’ve just finished my kitchen cabinets in white and want to get an ultra smooth finish. Will the wax work on solvent based paint?
@@fariedl wow, I’d try a corner and block sand w/600 grit and the something higher like 1,000 to 1,500 grit. Use water and sand lightly. Or instead get a water based clear epoxy for a finish. That might sand smoother than oil based (enamel) paint. Thin the final coat as thin as instructions allow so it flattens right out.
@@MrHardware1 you’re a star thanks for the advice. Love your work!
Hello, Can paste wax be used over a wood surface treated with tung oil?
Than you!
Yup, but being a soft finish don’t use too much elbow-grease on the steel wool.
Perfect video
Does this work over conversion varnish
I would have to try it to confirm. However being as hard and durable as it appears there should be no problem. I would test an inconspicuous area first.
Thank you sir!
@mr.hardware is it possible to use isopropyl alcohol for sanding?
As long as it doesn’t soften the finish.
I used varathane instead of poly. Can I still put paint thinner on that? I don’t understand the paint thinner part.
Actually I consider varathane to be a premium polyurethane. Very durable product. The paint thinner is used as a lubricant when fine sanding, using a grit 400 or finer so it does not leave any scratches as opposed to sanding dry, which is almost as good a job. I've used water also. Paint thinner (mineral spirits) will not remove or soften any finishes I have used it on short of a very old shellac.
Thank you for reaching back to me. I’m making a 9 foot tall barn door for my son to put in his new house. Varathane is actually the brand name. Sorry, I guess it is a polyurethane. On one side of this door is a bathroom and the other there bedroom. The bathrooms probably bigger than my house. I know I needed to seal it but wasn’t to concerned about moisture. I put 5 coats of the poly on each side. I saw that you sanded it with the thinner. I didn’t do that because I was worried the thinner would get between the cracks of this Alder clear I used. ( Back yard wood worker, what did we do before RUclips and you. Thanks by the way.) So I started hand buffing with the 00 steel wool and paste wax but I can still see brush marks. It looks good and has a consistent shine and nobody but me would notice. The door isn’t warped but it’s not perfect. I’m just scared to put the thinner on it.
@@danaprice213 Paint thinner will do no harm to the finish, but you could use water in it's place.
Question hope you read this soon.. i built a walnut table top .. sanded 120,220, water pop ,, sand 220, 400 water pop 400.. then cleaned with tack cloth .. then we rubbed on tried and true finish .. table looks amazing .. the guy at the store told me to burnish with steel wool (how i came across your video) use the tried and true again .. which I will add second coat tonight .. in your video you said it needs several coats of finish before adding paste wax .. how many coats of the tried and true varnish before I try the paste wax .. or is that for a diff process from what I’m doing ? Thanks for the tips .. I don’t want to mess up my new table
Looks like you have a super smooth table. If it’s not going to get abused you can wax right over the bare wood. If I want to abuse it (drinks, food, etc.) I’d thin the first coat of varnish (varnish, polyurethane, tung oil) 10 to 15% and second coat at full strength (although I did just finish a wood swing and I thinned the final coat 5% so it would lay down smoother). Depending on the density of the wood 2 coats of finish may provide a good base to wax over.
@@MrHardware1 ok sounds good thanks for the quick reply.. yeah I did the second coat last night .. I’ll prob let cure for a couple of days before doing the wax .. yeah this this a dining table and will get used ..
Excellent !!!
Do you have to dry/wipe off the thinner after sanding?
Yes, I try to always work on as clean a surface as possible when applying any finish.
@@MrHardware1Maybe I did something wrong. After doing the thinner w 400 grit, the surface was a little pastie. It did kot seem like it would wipe dry very easily so I let it dry then used a tac cloth to remove the white dust that was left. The video was fantastic. It would have been good to see this part too. Thanks..
@@johnson7228 there’s a chance you’re finished wasn’t totally cured out and dry/hard. It can take over a week when humidity is high.
@@MrHardware1 thanks. it cured for about a month waiting for me to get back to it. :) turned out good in the end.
I bought Liberon polish remover and they recommend using steel wool 0000 to apply. The result is it left scratches on a very nice dining table. Maybe I didn’t soak the wool enough. Will this technique help me get rid of these wool micro scratches? The table has the factory coats of varnish and PU. Thanks J
Stay w the grain and keep plenty of wax on the steel wool. Use 0000 also.
@@MrHardware1 thanks.
Can you use this method over an oil finish?
You will have to test to see if the finish is hard enough to support the wax. I bet yes....
Thank you Mr. Hardware...can i wet sand an oil based polyurethane finish before i apply this product? Thanks😊
@@danieldavis5606 yes, I’ve lightly sanded w/600 wet/dry (or finer) numerous times.
Thank you! I keep getting streaks with satin polyurethane, gonna sand it lightly and apply the paste wax, from what youve shown, that should make the whole difference@MrHardware1
Any thoughts on Howard's Feed and Wax over the sanded poly?
@@danieldavis5606 I like it. Any lubricant used w/fine steelwool works. Once in a pinch I used Guardsman polish and got the same results.
How Can I Reduce the Sheen of an Oil Based Top Coat? I Used Semi Gloss and It's Too Shiny. Can I use your method to reduce the sheen?
Yes, but you’ll have to be consistent in your efforts so not to get multiple sheen’s. There is satin and even matt products you could use as a final coat that will result in a lower sheen.
Hi, I recently bought a 2nd hand table. The previous owner had sanded and refinished the table but i"m not sure what he used to seal it, if anything. It has a sheen but seems porous. I'd like to make the table more indestructible to water stains. This seems like it would help. Will this stop water ring stains? thanks
A coat or 2 (or 3) of a satin poly urethane finish will seal the wood to protect it, then the wax trick makes it a smoother finish and even more durable. Wax on open wood is not very protective.
I went to but the things, I did it on my end table it didn't work, the steel wool left marks on the wood and some areas are shine and others are not...what I am doing wrong? I just think I ruined my end table .Help please
I think your table may not of had enough varnish or sealer on it before you waxed. Wax won’t run a table you may have to take some paint thinner and some steel wall and remove all the wax, possibly two times and I bet you need to put a coat or two of polyurethane on the table to seal the wood first. The wax won’t make up for lack of varnish or sealer.
Hi!
Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer.
The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer.
But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
I would apply the additional two coats of lacquer before doing any sanding at all. I do not like all the dust and cleanup every time I sand a project plus I prefer to build up a little bit of product to protect my stain before I start sanding. This way, I typically only sand just before my final coat of finish and that way, I sand it very, very well. I dusted very very well and I’m very particular about no one coming around and nothing creating any dust when I put on my last coat. I think you’ll find some of the end grain is more porous than other portions of the wood so your dull and gloss areas are due to absorption not your stain, as far as I can tell from here.
@@MrHardware1 Thanks a lot, this was very helpful! I’ll try to continue tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes )) I think I will still sand it very lightly trying not to damage dyed layer, so the next poly coat holds better. Cheers!
@@MrHardware1 Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind.
What if you use waterbase stain?
I would still suggest a water-based polyurethane or water-based varnish to go over the stain to seal it, and give the wax something to work against. If this surface is not to be used and is mostly for art, then you could probably just put the wax right over the stain but it’s not very durable on it’s own.
@MrHardware1 can you use oil based polyurethane on a water Base stain? It's for a piece of furniture
@@misty1836 yes you can, just make sure that the latex stain is been dry at least 24 hours.
Will this work with a indoor outdoor urethane finish???
Usually as long as there is enough finish on the wood.
Did you wait in between applying with 00 and buffing off with 0000? I applied this technique to a Birch plywood desk top after poly dried and it worked beautifully. I applied the same technique to a multi board pine coffee table top and when I buffed with 0000 it got a little gunky and pieces of the steel wool was coming off. I then applied major elbow grease which seemed to work, but I hope I didn't just take the wax layer off!
My thought is the finish wasn't fully cured. Or you had too much wax on the surface.
That's a good video I appreciated it very much.
So just out of curiosity, any reason to not do the same thing but use a DA polisher/buffer using the 0000 steel wool as the pad?
I don't think you will get the same 'heat' from a circular motion compared to long rubbbed strokes.
@@MrHardware1 okay makes since
Link for Elbow Grease please.
How did you apply the 5 coats of polyurethane? Did you spray it on and dry sanded in between? What grit did you use? How long did you wait between coats? By the looks, it was a satin poly?
I usually apply my polyurethane within 24 hours of the prior coat. That way I don’t need to sand in between coats and create dust Every time I do a coat. Once I get ready for my last coat is when I sand extremely well with 220 or finer sandpaper, and then crazily dust the room in the area I’m working besides changing my clothes and washing my hairy arms. When the coat goes on no one gets to come and see what I’m doing and once I’m done, I turn out the lights and hit the road until tomorrow. Then let it dry 2 to 3 days or more until it is getting near it finished hardness and then is when I’ll steel wool wax it to take care of any flaws that got into my last coat.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you for the detailed explanation, do you spray it on with HVLP equipment? Your results are impressive! Merry Christmas!
@@jorgeandrade20 furniture I brush on, when I did 6 doors I used my HVLP, but the doors did not get waxed.
Amazing video sharing some tribal wisdom. Mineral spirits leaves a white residue after drying. Should you wipe with a cloth or just leave it and begin applying the wax with steel wool? Curious because I didn’t see any mention of what should be done between mineral spirits and sanding step and the paste wax application…
I would definitely buff off the white residue with the soft, clean towel before applying any wax. No need to add any foreign materials into the finish.
Is the sanding with 400 grit and mineral spirits a necessary step, or can it be skipped? Thanks
It is a quick way to cut down particles of dust, making a very smooth surface quicker than w/ steel wool.
By far the best video on the subject. Any recommendations for repairing damage to finished wood caused by hot dinner plates/pizza boxes?
The white rings may come out with mineral spirits and fine steel wool. If you use alcohol or acetone you can remove the rings but you will need to re-varnish or polyurethane the surface before waxing. You may even need to restain to restore the color.
Can I use the (0000) to add the wax and then buff it out or do I have to use (00) to add the wax and use (0000) to buff?
I use the oo to apply to speed removing of impurities in the finish. If the finish is almost perfect you could use 0000 for the entire job.
Can beewax be used in place of paste wax or that is a different application?
I believe you can. Usually finishers use it with a soft cloth and are critical of keeping it clean. I’m using finishing wax as a lubricant when steelwooling a varnish/polyurethane project to a smoother finish. The residue from the steel wool may leave ‘color’ in the finish…..
Hi Very Nice.
Would this work on a Bar Top.?.
Over a sealed surface (quality varnish or polyurethane) it is perfect. Too much wax can turn white from water stains but is easily repaired.
do you have to have put lacquer on top to do this wax finish? I wanted to just apply oil to my shelf in refinishing, would i get this same result over an oil finish if i buffed the shelf with wax and steel wool?
Sarah, nothing goes onto the wax, plus nothing will stick to it. The wax on a finish is more durable and will last longer than wax on wood alone. Wax alone will require refinishing about every 5 years.
Excellent video. Instructions are simple and easy to follow. Thanks for posting. Can you do this technique over a danish oil finish?
Usually, there needs to be enough finish in the wood so the wax does not cause a different color or sheen where the danish oil is thin.
Can you do the same process to an epoxy finished piece of wood too?
It may contaminate the color, a little yellowing on a varnished is indescocernable but may ruin a mixed color.