0:16 "...something you made and polyurethaned yourself go from GOOD to PERFECT".... Or in my case, to get from "honestly pretty bad" to "surprisingly very good." Excellent suggestion, made a huge difference.
This video saved the day for me. I built a Cherry dinning room table for my wife and was struggling with the clear topcoat. I was forced to use waterborne Polyurethane due to winter time workshop with apartment over the garage. I was not able to get a clear finish that would represent the Cherry well, that was until I saw this video. I put on 3 coats of the clear semigloss poly and sanded and finished as Blair suggested and it is now perfect. I feel I have the protection from incidental spills from the poly and the rich natuaral finish using the wax on top. Thanks for sharing this method of finish..............
Crystal clear and bold voice. very useful for a person searching for a method of using wax polish on wood. Great presentation in a short time. Regards Vishwanath
yes clearly Blair knows what he's talking about and has mastered this process without any issues. I have bought quite a few pieces "refinished" by amateurs who put a spotty finish on the wood. Using the wax really makes the poorly done job look professional. As Blair indicates ... it does take time but it take the furniture to a whole new level.
I just have to post a comment to say thank you so much for this excellent tip using the two different grades of steel wool (00 and 0000) when applying the wax polish. I normally use a liquid polyurethane applied with a brush, but because I'm refinishing a very long, low dresser (9 drawer), I didn't want to chance brush strokes being visible due to not being able to maintain a wet edge. I thought I'd try going the wax polish method but had never tried it before. After my first application, I noticed it was blotchy, you could see it was uneven. After watching your video, I went back and used your two step method with the steel wool and it turned out beautiful. Silky smooth and an even appearance. Simply beautiful. Thank you so very much for sharing that. Cheers, Gabrielle
I tried this wonderful technique last night and got fantastic results! Polished a walnut bar top which was finished with lacquer. Achieved an even, satiny sheen that feels almost velvety to the touch. Thanks a bunch for sharing this technique!
Thank you so much! As a first timer staining and finishing a butcher block tabletop, this video saved my project. I was frustrated with the results I was getting, even after tediously following the directions of how to apply polyurethane. This made the coat even and beautiful. Thank you, sir.
Thank you Blair was fighting a butcher block finish with watco block oil couldn't get it to even out. Your dad's method worked perfectly. I am a fellow citizen from St Clair Shores, spent 38 years there. Last 17 in California. Thank you again.
I followed the advice from a couple of other RUclips videos and got swirls in the finish on my dining table. I used Mr. Hardware's method and my table looks so much better. Thank you, Mr. Hardware!
Wonderful Video, just reworked a couple of sticky tables in my cafe. I got a little past the finish in a couple of spots, but tables are now super smooth and my hand slides across them with ease. I'm sure my customers will notice tomorrow. thank you for sharing your expertise!
Just finished my walnut butcher block island using this method after sealing with satin finish waterlox. This was the exact look I was hoping to achieve. Thank you for the video!
Love your site and tips. Going to order some stuff cause I support independent merchants over big boxes. I grew up in 84 lumber as a kid following my dad everywhere lol.
Great video and thanks for showing the difference on both sides in the right angle in the light. That was the most beneficial part as well as the technique. Thanks for taking the time.
I’m truly amazed the amount of labor it takes to refinish wood like this. I thought it an elementary easy process. This is a lot of work in retrospect. We’re used to just buying it w/o considering others toil. Thanks for this.
Excellent, I have been searching for this information on RUclips for quite a while and could not find how to get the dust out of water-based satin polyurethane. All the other videos I saw were talking about creating a high-gloss finish which I didn’t want. I wanted to maintain a satin finish. Thank you!
WOW WOW WOW . Went on RUclips to see if there was a way to get brush strokes out of table tops that I finish. Saw this story and now my work looks great. Not only does it get out the little dust bugs but actually gets out the brush strokes, Never would have thought that steel wool would be the answer, Thanks a ton
Thank you, the exact video I had been looking for, and not another like it. Working on blk walnut, first 2 coats went on beautiful, now I’m on 6&7 and leaving streaks every time, only reason for so many coats. Just can’t get it right. Tried paint thinner and 800 grit, then refinished but no luck, still streaks. Hoping this works, letting table cure few more days. Thank you for making this, just the advice I was looking for. Will follow up when complete.
Joe...while your post was 3-years ago. I'm curious if you ever found out what caused your streaking issues? I've run into the same problem with my Minwax Wipe-On Poly (6-7 total coats). I think I may have to strip the table, but hoping you might have another option(s). Thank you!
Is there any drying time between the first buffing coat (00) and the final buffing coat (0000)? Awesome instructional video, with some added tips/wisdom in between! 👍🏼
Mr. Hardware...thank you for this video, so clear and instructional. Question? I have a dark espresso colored tabletop with protective clear coat (bought from a higher end furniture company). There are two areas on the surface with scratches and white heat marks. It is a quarter sawn oak wood with espresso finish. Will this method of mineral spirits, 00 steel wool and paste wax (natural), then 0000 steel wool work on this this project? Thank you so much. Also, love St. Clair! My best friend lived on Lake St. Clair in Harrison Township. Visited many times, both sunny and frozen. We always went to Luigi"s and got calamari steak. Miss those days. Thank you for your help.
@@stephaniebenbenek4187 usually the ring should be addressed first. Low heat, toothpaste, mayonnaise (yup) and others because typically the stain is deeper in the finish than the wax can reach.
I had purchased this tool from a local detail supply outlet ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 and it has been my go-to polisher since (I've hardly had to break any of my DA machines out since). I run this tool with a 5" Buff and Shine backing plate with an assortment of pads ranging from Buff and Shine to Meguiar's to 3D. This machine is run daily and it run long in my shop. Since getting this machine I've had 4 client cars qualify and go to the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance car show this year. Currently ramping up for SEMA where I will probably have this machine running for 10+ hour days for 2 weeks straight. One thing to note is that this machine under paint polishing speeds (typically 1000-1400 rpm for me) does get hot and she is a beefy machine (just think of those shoulder gains you'll get with her). Also as another reviewer mentioned, with a quick trigger pull, she will overshoot the desired RPM and then come back down. Speed control in that aspect probably could use some refining since none of my Flex machines do that, but other than heat and RPM overshoot, great machine and must have machine for the advanced to pro detailer.
Amazing video sharing some tribal wisdom. Mineral spirits leaves a white residue after drying. Should you wipe with a cloth or just leave it and begin applying the wax with steel wool? Curious because I didn’t see any mention of what should be done between mineral spirits and sanding step and the paste wax application…
I would definitely buff off the white residue with the soft, clean towel before applying any wax. No need to add any foreign materials into the finish.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
I would apply the additional two coats of lacquer before doing any sanding at all. I do not like all the dust and cleanup every time I sand a project plus I prefer to build up a little bit of product to protect my stain before I start sanding. This way, I typically only sand just before my final coat of finish and that way, I sand it very, very well. I dusted very very well and I’m very particular about no one coming around and nothing creating any dust when I put on my last coat. I think you’ll find some of the end grain is more porous than other portions of the wood so your dull and gloss areas are due to absorption not your stain, as far as I can tell from here.
@@MrHardware1 Thanks a lot, this was very helpful! I’ll try to continue tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes )) I think I will still sand it very lightly trying not to damage dyed layer, so the next poly coat holds better. Cheers!
@@MrHardware1 Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind.
Great Video! By chance why cant you just put the steel wool on the 0000 steel wool and immediately buff it in with that? Wiping off excess after? Is there a real need for 00 steel wool to be used
00 is used only to remove any blemishes in the finish that are proud of the surface. Sometimes I use 400 wet before waxing. It flattens the surface when used with a block.
The white rings may come out with mineral spirits and fine steel wool. If you use alcohol or acetone you can remove the rings but you will need to re-varnish or polyurethane the surface before waxing. You may even need to restain to restore the color.
Thank you! I keep getting streaks with satin polyurethane, gonna sand it lightly and apply the paste wax, from what youve shown, that should make the whole difference@MrHardware1
I use lots of paint thinner and a fine scotch pad to remove wax. To make sure you got any residue left behind you could try using acetone as a final wash because not much be left on that surface but polyurethane after you clean it with acetone. But it would be my second step not the first.
How much is a pound of elbow grease at Gilbert's Pro Hardware? Also slow shipping cost to Texas 75028. Great video. Working on some black walnut furniture. Thanks!
I have a table constructed of old barnwood that has been finished with 'French wax' over a light walnut stain. I notice the finish easily comes off when i run a sleeve or dry napkin over it. Also has a very pungent smell that won't fade. Any advice? Can I use mineral spirits and rewax?
I yes mineral spirits be a good choice to remove the old finish. I’d be tempted to wipe on a coat or 2 of Tungoil first to seal the stain and then steel wool wax over the top of that.
How did you apply the 5 coats of polyurethane? Did you spray it on and dry sanded in between? What grit did you use? How long did you wait between coats? By the looks, it was a satin poly?
I usually apply my polyurethane within 24 hours of the prior coat. That way I don’t need to sand in between coats and create dust Every time I do a coat. Once I get ready for my last coat is when I sand extremely well with 220 or finer sandpaper, and then crazily dust the room in the area I’m working besides changing my clothes and washing my hairy arms. When the coat goes on no one gets to come and see what I’m doing and once I’m done, I turn out the lights and hit the road until tomorrow. Then let it dry 2 to 3 days or more until it is getting near it finished hardness and then is when I’ll steel wool wax it to take care of any flaws that got into my last coat.
Terrific video. Which would be the way to get the similar results with a professional polisher machine. How about using my polisher with 1500 and 3000 sand papers and then, polishing with some compound? (is there any wax that I could use with my polisher). That approach would reduce efforts but not sure how to proceed :)
The ultra fine sandpaper will do a great job prepping the finish. So much that you may not need to wax. It would be easy to wax on that surface seeing as there are no blemishes to remove.
Very impressive, thank you! I’m thinking about doing this to the dining table that I have made. Got one question though, How long after applying the wax do you start buffing it?
I can’t say, but over the years, I’ve used different brands and types of wax. The important thing is that it lubricants the steel wool so it doesn’t scratch the varnished surface.
Great technique. I use 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits after the last coat of poly cures, and it works very well. I'll bet the finishing wax step will make it even nicer. I'm wondering if I can use 0000 for all the steps, or should I get some 00 steel wool for the wax application?
I have a pair of Klipsch K-Horns in birch with lite Cherry stain and five coat lacquer finish. They are in a basement with a lot of spiders and one speaker has a fair amount of droppings. I used a polish that took the obvious to the eye away but running your hand over the wood you can feel tiny bumps. Would the wax and 0000 completely remove them? To me they are fine-looking clean but it's time to sell them and I need the feel to match the condition. Near Mint for a 1983 speaker set.
Thank you for the great video! What about the sides and end grain? How do you buff them up to look as good as the top? Just do the same as the table top?
Question hope you read this soon.. i built a walnut table top .. sanded 120,220, water pop ,, sand 220, 400 water pop 400.. then cleaned with tack cloth .. then we rubbed on tried and true finish .. table looks amazing .. the guy at the store told me to burnish with steel wool (how i came across your video) use the tried and true again .. which I will add second coat tonight .. in your video you said it needs several coats of finish before adding paste wax .. how many coats of the tried and true varnish before I try the paste wax .. or is that for a diff process from what I’m doing ? Thanks for the tips .. I don’t want to mess up my new table
Looks like you have a super smooth table. If it’s not going to get abused you can wax right over the bare wood. If I want to abuse it (drinks, food, etc.) I’d thin the first coat of varnish (varnish, polyurethane, tung oil) 10 to 15% and second coat at full strength (although I did just finish a wood swing and I thinned the final coat 5% so it would lay down smoother). Depending on the density of the wood 2 coats of finish may provide a good base to wax over.
@@MrHardware1 ok sounds good thanks for the quick reply.. yeah I did the second coat last night .. I’ll prob let cure for a couple of days before doing the wax .. yeah this this a dining table and will get used ..
Great video. Im a beginner..just did my table with Polyurethane and applied a couple coats of finishing wax with a cloth. But still not happy with results. Can i do this technique over the wax that i already applied?
Any idea what to do with stained timber table top with oil wax and issue is it has excess feeling of wax and stickiness which I would remove and smooth it out
Try using paint thinner on a rag first. That usually is a great way to remove excess wax. Somethings stronger that will work but probably will remove some of the stain is acetone used the same way.
I bought Liberon polish remover and they recommend using steel wool 0000 to apply. The result is it left scratches on a very nice dining table. Maybe I didn’t soak the wool enough. Will this technique help me get rid of these wool micro scratches? The table has the factory coats of varnish and PU. Thanks J
Did you wait in between applying with 00 and buffing off with 0000? I applied this technique to a Birch plywood desk top after poly dried and it worked beautifully. I applied the same technique to a multi board pine coffee table top and when I buffed with 0000 it got a little gunky and pieces of the steel wool was coming off. I then applied major elbow grease which seemed to work, but I hope I didn't just take the wax layer off!
Nice video.. I made a table top from walnut as well and I was using a mix of tung oil, poly and mineral spirits. I originally sanded it smooth to 400. My first two coats went on super well but I wanted to add more protection so added more coats.. third and fourth coats did leave some dull spots. As if someone ran their finger over the finish before curing. I sand in between each coat with 400 grit. What are my options? Would this method work? Or should I try a 5th coat?
@@MrHardware1 I actually put a new coat with steel wool 0000 and then once cured, put some wax with a rag. I wasn't super happy with the steel wool as it introduced micro scratches.
I just completed putting my 3rd coat of Poly on a dining room table. So far the job looks pretty good. I want to use your steel wool method on it to finish the job. I found one blemish on the table that has what looks to be a brush hair on it. Will this steel wool method remove that? or should I do a 400 sandpaper on it?
HI there - this looks great. Will it work OK with an oil-based varnish instead of polyurethane? And if so - will the 4-5 days curing time still be ok or do i need to wait longer? Thanks.
Loved the video. Excited to try it out. Question: Instead of Minwax Paste, can I use the regular car polish wax like Turtle or Mother’s wax? Also, instead of 400 grit sand paper, can I use 320 grit or 0000 steel wool to rub with the mineral spirit? Thanks!!
I don’t think car waxes have enough body although they might work..... 320 paper is a little coarse, could leave scratches the steel wool might not get out.
@@MrHardware1 I tried your technique on the small piece of ash wood. While the finish is very smooth, it however dulled the poly significantly. I have applied 12 layers of minwax wipe-on clear satin poly and let it cured for 4 days. What am I doing wrong? Pls help. Thanks!
Great video! If I have 3 coats of polyurathane on, do I still need to use mineral spirits and sand before applying the wax? My concern is I don't want to wear through the finish too much. I also noticed there's a small spot I must have missed with the polyurathane on the last coat since it doesn't look as covered as the rest of the wood (about 2" x 2"). Any suggestions on what do do about that? I'm sure the steel wool / wax with smooth that out. I just don't want to mess up the protectiveness of the wood. Thanks!
I plan on using your technique once my desk is done curing but wondering after wet sanding, do i wipe off the paint thinnner to make it dry before waxing with steel wool? Or do i just continue with wet surface without drying or dusting it?
Yes, but you’ll have to be consistent in your efforts so not to get multiple sheen’s. There is satin and even matt products you could use as a final coat that will result in a lower sheen.
Hi, I recently bought a 2nd hand table. The previous owner had sanded and refinished the table but i"m not sure what he used to seal it, if anything. It has a sheen but seems porous. I'd like to make the table more indestructible to water stains. This seems like it would help. Will this stop water ring stains? thanks
A coat or 2 (or 3) of a satin poly urethane finish will seal the wood to protect it, then the wax trick makes it a smoother finish and even more durable. Wax on open wood is not very protective.
Blair, great video. I have an old door that I have stained + 7 coats of satin spar varnish. Even the satin is too shiny. Any tips on dulling that out? Do you think the 0000 wool alone work to help that?
I think 0000 is too fine unless you use it dry. Careful to keep checking for scratches. I would be trying 00 with a lubricant like the paste wax, but I've use furniture polish when I was out of town and couldn't get wax.
Great video, thanks! I notice that Minwax paste wax has both Natural and Special Dark shades. When using to buff poly to a satin sheen, do you always use the Natural or do you use the Dark on darker woods? I have applied several coats of oil-based poly over a dark (coffee) stain on oak. I'm worried the Natural will leave light streaks (or is it actually clear?), and the Dark will leave dark streaks 'floating' above the clear poly... Thanks!
Hi and thanks for this video! I think it is what I was looking for... let's see. I have an inexpensive small side table I purchased as a place to put a nice Paul Nelson modern lamp I have. It's a nice design for the chair it sits next to, and for the lamp, but the darkish walnut veneer of the table top is somewhat "flat" and slightly uneven in terms of the sheen of the finish. I'd like to have a bit more depth to the grain and evenness to the finish. I believe that a slightly higher sheen could accomplish that (maybe half way between 'satin' and 'semi-gloss' to give a bit more surface reflection and highlight the nice lamp). I've searched a lot of finishing ideas on the web, but yours here seems to be something that will give a bit more of that diffused satin reflectiveness and richness. What do you think? If polishing wax is the way to go, would it darken the wood at all?
There is a clear and a dark wax by Minwax that I use. The clear may darken a little, the dark a little more. I feel it is worth the effect which ever way you go.
Thanks very much! Are there any wax products that can be used in this way that can influence the color? Perhaps provide a bit more warmth. If that would also produce more darkening, I would probably avoid that and just go for the the luster of the the clear Minwax that you describe.
@@MrHardware1Maybe I did something wrong. After doing the thinner w 400 grit, the surface was a little pastie. It did kot seem like it would wipe dry very easily so I let it dry then used a tac cloth to remove the white dust that was left. The video was fantastic. It would have been good to see this part too. Thanks..
0:16 "...something you made and polyurethaned yourself go from GOOD to PERFECT".... Or in my case, to get from "honestly pretty bad" to "surprisingly very good." Excellent suggestion, made a huge difference.
This video saved the day for me. I built a Cherry dinning room table for my wife and was struggling with the clear topcoat. I was forced to use waterborne Polyurethane due to winter time workshop with apartment over the garage. I was not able to get a clear finish that would represent the Cherry well, that was until I saw this video. I put on 3 coats of the clear semigloss poly and sanded and finished as Blair suggested and it is now perfect. I feel I have the protection from incidental spills from the poly and the rich natuaral finish using the wax on top. Thanks for sharing this method of finish..............
Thank you for this! I just finished restoring a wooden Modernica dinette table top and now I know how to make a very good job truly outstanding.
Crystal clear and bold voice. very useful for a person searching for a method of using wax polish on wood. Great presentation in a short time.
Regards
Vishwanath
yes clearly Blair knows what he's talking about and has mastered this process without any issues. I have bought quite a few pieces "refinished" by amateurs who put a spotty finish on the wood. Using the wax really makes the poorly done job look professional. As Blair indicates ... it does take time but it take the furniture to a whole new level.
I just have to post a comment to say thank you so much for this excellent tip using the two different grades of steel wool (00 and 0000) when applying the wax polish. I normally use a liquid polyurethane applied with a brush, but because I'm refinishing a very long, low dresser (9 drawer), I didn't want to chance brush strokes being visible due to not being able to maintain a wet edge. I thought I'd try going the wax polish method but had never tried it before. After my first application, I noticed it was blotchy, you could see it was uneven. After watching your video, I went back and used your two step method with the steel wool and it turned out beautiful. Silky smooth and an even appearance. Simply beautiful. Thank you so very much for sharing that. Cheers, Gabrielle
I tried this wonderful technique last night and got fantastic results! Polished a walnut bar top which was finished with lacquer. Achieved an even, satiny sheen that feels almost velvety to the touch. Thanks a bunch for sharing this technique!
Thank you so much! As a first timer staining and finishing a butcher block tabletop, this video saved my project. I was frustrated with the results I was getting, even after tediously following the directions of how to apply polyurethane. This made the coat even and beautiful. Thank you, sir.
We all love a WIN! Blair
Thank you Blair was fighting a butcher block finish with watco block oil couldn't get it to even out.
Your dad's method worked perfectly.
I am a fellow citizen from St Clair Shores, spent 38 years there. Last 17 in California. Thank you again.
Just used this method on a 2x6 glued tabletop I built and it made a huge difference.
I tried this method on an antique table and the result is absolutely amazing. Thank you so much.
I followed the advice from a couple of other RUclips videos and got swirls in the finish on my dining table. I used Mr. Hardware's method and my table looks so much better. Thank you, Mr. Hardware!
Wonderful Video, just reworked a couple of sticky tables in my cafe. I got a little past the finish in a couple of spots, but tables are now super smooth and my hand slides across them with ease. I'm sure my customers will notice tomorrow. thank you for sharing your expertise!
Wow, last shot of the difference you accomplished was amazing! Absolutely beautiful!
I used this method to finish my tabletop. Looks amazing. Thanks for the video!
Im doing Mine now
Just finished my walnut butcher block island using this method after sealing with satin finish waterlox. This was the exact look I was hoping to achieve.
Thank you for the video!
Love your site and tips. Going to order some stuff cause I support independent merchants over big boxes. I grew up in 84 lumber as a kid following my dad everywhere lol.
I used this method on coffee table I restored. Thank you so much the results are amazing and so inexpensive!
Great video and thanks for showing the difference on both sides in the right angle in the light. That was the most beneficial part as well as the technique. Thanks for taking the time.
fantastic, no-gimmick craftsmanship! Keep these tips coming.
thank you, thank you
I’m truly amazed the amount of labor it takes to refinish wood like this. I thought it an elementary easy process. This is a lot of work in retrospect. We’re used to just buying it w/o considering others toil. Thanks for this.
Excellent, I have been searching for this information on RUclips for quite a while and could not find how to get the dust out of water-based satin polyurethane. All the other videos I saw were talking about creating a high-gloss finish which I didn’t want. I wanted to maintain a satin finish. Thank you!
Awesome suggestion! Worked great...Thank you!
WOW WOW WOW . Went on RUclips to see if there was a way to get brush strokes out of table tops that I finish. Saw this story and now my work looks great. Not only does it get out the little dust bugs but actually gets out the brush strokes, Never would have thought that steel wool would be the answer, Thanks a ton
I pretty much do the same thing with the Mini shelves that I make but it takes several hours to make it right but after that it is sweet❤
I tried this. Amazing! It works.
Thank you, the exact video I had been looking for, and not another like it. Working on blk walnut, first 2 coats went on beautiful, now I’m on 6&7 and leaving streaks every time, only reason for so many coats. Just can’t get it right. Tried paint thinner and 800 grit, then refinished but no luck, still streaks. Hoping this works, letting table cure few more days. Thank you for making this, just the advice I was looking for. Will follow up when complete.
Please do, Blair
Joe...while your post was 3-years ago. I'm curious if you ever found out what caused your streaking issues? I've run into the same problem with my Minwax Wipe-On Poly (6-7 total coats). I think I may have to strip the table, but hoping you might have another option(s). Thank you!
Is there any drying time between the first buffing coat (00) and the final buffing coat (0000)? Awesome instructional video, with some added tips/wisdom in between! 👍🏼
No, the wax may cure out after a while but I never wait over an hour or so.
Thanks for the most important tip of the day with how to finish out a great poly job 😎👍🏼
Thank you Sir, great tip from an expert
Mr Gilbert has been around the block a time or two. Good info for people needing help with furniture finishing.
Just tried this method and it was flawless! Thanks!
That is a beautiful piece of wood.
Mr. Hardware...thank you for this video, so clear and instructional. Question? I have a dark espresso colored tabletop with protective clear coat (bought from a higher end furniture company). There are two areas on the surface with scratches and white heat marks. It is a quarter sawn oak wood with espresso finish. Will this method of mineral spirits, 00 steel wool and paste wax (natural), then 0000 steel wool work on this this project? Thank you so much. Also, love St. Clair! My best friend lived on Lake St. Clair in Harrison Township. Visited many times, both sunny and frozen. We always went to Luigi"s and got calamari steak. Miss those days. Thank you for your help.
@@stephaniebenbenek4187 usually the ring should be addressed first. Low heat, toothpaste, mayonnaise (yup) and others because typically the stain is deeper in the finish than the wax can reach.
Great tip! Beautiful final product! Thanks for sharing the wisdom!
This is a very informative video. Thanks for posting it.
Nicely done.
Thank you.
Wow! I will definitely be doing this.
Hello Mr Hardware , my hat goes off to my friend. Pure class video. I'm stunned. Excellent job. Kind regards Danny UK
Thanks mate, we love the great comments. Blair and Tim
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
Thank you so much for posting! Extremely helpful!!!
Holy Cow I am impressed !!
Thanks so much for sharing this !!
AWESOME SIR
Thank you Master! You are the one!. Cheers
That's a good video I appreciated it very much.
I had purchased this tool from a local detail supply outlet ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 and it has been my go-to polisher since (I've hardly had to break any of my DA machines out since). I run this tool with a 5" Buff and Shine backing plate with an assortment of pads ranging from Buff and Shine to Meguiar's to 3D. This machine is run daily and it run long in my shop. Since getting this machine I've had 4 client cars qualify and go to the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance car show this year. Currently ramping up for SEMA where I will probably have this machine running for 10+ hour days for 2 weeks straight. One thing to note is that this machine under paint polishing speeds (typically 1000-1400 rpm for me) does get hot and she is a beefy machine (just think of those shoulder gains you'll get with her). Also as another reviewer mentioned, with a quick trigger pull, she will overshoot the desired RPM and then come back down. Speed control in that aspect probably could use some refining since none of my Flex machines do that, but other than heat and RPM overshoot, great machine and must have machine for the advanced to pro detailer.
Great job! Also loved the suspenders ...............
Amazing video sharing some tribal wisdom. Mineral spirits leaves a white residue after drying. Should you wipe with a cloth or just leave it and begin applying the wax with steel wool? Curious because I didn’t see any mention of what should be done between mineral spirits and sanding step and the paste wax application…
I would definitely buff off the white residue with the soft, clean towel before applying any wax. No need to add any foreign materials into the finish.
Perfect video
I only have daddy van's furniture polish wax. Can I use it for this?
@@ask43242flight if it’s a paste wax I’d say yes, however I don’t recognize the name or product.
Hi!
Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer.
The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer.
But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
I would apply the additional two coats of lacquer before doing any sanding at all. I do not like all the dust and cleanup every time I sand a project plus I prefer to build up a little bit of product to protect my stain before I start sanding. This way, I typically only sand just before my final coat of finish and that way, I sand it very, very well. I dusted very very well and I’m very particular about no one coming around and nothing creating any dust when I put on my last coat. I think you’ll find some of the end grain is more porous than other portions of the wood so your dull and gloss areas are due to absorption not your stain, as far as I can tell from here.
@@MrHardware1 Thanks a lot, this was very helpful! I’ll try to continue tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes )) I think I will still sand it very lightly trying not to damage dyed layer, so the next poly coat holds better. Cheers!
@@MrHardware1 Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind.
Great Video! By chance why cant you just put the steel wool on the 0000 steel wool and immediately buff it in with that? Wiping off excess after? Is there a real need for 00 steel wool to be used
00 is used only to remove any blemishes in the finish that are proud of the surface. Sometimes I use 400 wet before waxing. It flattens the surface when used with a block.
@@blairgilbert7606 Thank you! Very helpful
By far the best video on the subject. Any recommendations for repairing damage to finished wood caused by hot dinner plates/pizza boxes?
The white rings may come out with mineral spirits and fine steel wool. If you use alcohol or acetone you can remove the rings but you will need to re-varnish or polyurethane the surface before waxing. You may even need to restain to restore the color.
Excellent video. Instructions are simple and easy to follow. Thanks for posting. Can you do this technique over a danish oil finish?
Usually, there needs to be enough finish in the wood so the wax does not cause a different color or sheen where the danish oil is thin.
This is great but what can I do with water based polyurethane? Can I do everything except the mineral spirits/ thinner?
Sure, if you’re using water based polyurethane use a damp rag to check the finish and pre-dust the surface.
But what if I do get a piece of dust in it is there anything I can put on it or do? Like Minwax or something?
Absolutely superb!
Thank you Mr. Hardware...can i wet sand an oil based polyurethane finish before i apply this product? Thanks😊
@@danieldavis5606 yes, I’ve lightly sanded w/600 wet/dry (or finer) numerous times.
Thank you! I keep getting streaks with satin polyurethane, gonna sand it lightly and apply the paste wax, from what youve shown, that should make the whole difference@MrHardware1
Any thoughts on Howard's Feed and Wax over the sanded poly?
@@danieldavis5606 I like it. Any lubricant used w/fine steelwool works. Once in a pinch I used Guardsman polish and got the same results.
If you wanted to put more coats of polyurathane on in the future after you put the wax, could you? And if you cant how can you get it off so you can?
I use lots of paint thinner and a fine scotch pad to remove wax. To make sure you got any residue left behind you could try using acetone as a final wash because not much be left on that surface but polyurethane after you clean it with acetone. But it would be my second step not the first.
Hello, Can paste wax be used over a wood surface treated with tung oil?
Than you!
Yup, but being a soft finish don’t use too much elbow-grease on the steel wool.
Thank you sir!
Did you wait for the wax to dry at all before buffing the wax out with 0000 wool?
Yes I do, but not over 5 minutes. If it sets and get too firm it is a pain to buff.
How much is a pound of elbow grease at Gilbert's Pro Hardware? Also slow shipping cost to Texas 75028. Great video. Working on some black walnut furniture. Thanks!
I have a table constructed of old barnwood that has been finished with 'French wax' over a light walnut stain. I notice the finish easily comes off when i run a sleeve or dry napkin over it. Also has a very pungent smell that won't fade. Any advice? Can I use mineral spirits and rewax?
I yes mineral spirits be a good choice to remove the old finish. I’d be tempted to wipe on a coat or 2 of Tungoil first to seal the stain and then steel wool wax over the top of that.
@mr.hardware is it possible to use isopropyl alcohol for sanding?
As long as it doesn’t soften the finish.
How did you apply the 5 coats of polyurethane? Did you spray it on and dry sanded in between? What grit did you use? How long did you wait between coats? By the looks, it was a satin poly?
I usually apply my polyurethane within 24 hours of the prior coat. That way I don’t need to sand in between coats and create dust Every time I do a coat. Once I get ready for my last coat is when I sand extremely well with 220 or finer sandpaper, and then crazily dust the room in the area I’m working besides changing my clothes and washing my hairy arms. When the coat goes on no one gets to come and see what I’m doing and once I’m done, I turn out the lights and hit the road until tomorrow. Then let it dry 2 to 3 days or more until it is getting near it finished hardness and then is when I’ll steel wool wax it to take care of any flaws that got into my last coat.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you for the detailed explanation, do you spray it on with HVLP equipment? Your results are impressive! Merry Christmas!
@@jorgeandrade20 furniture I brush on, when I did 6 doors I used my HVLP, but the doors did not get waxed.
Terrific video. Which would be the way to get the similar results with a professional polisher machine. How about using my polisher with 1500 and 3000 sand papers and then, polishing with some compound? (is there any wax that I could use with my polisher). That approach would reduce efforts but not sure how to proceed :)
The ultra fine sandpaper will do a great job prepping the finish. So much that you may not need to wax. It would be easy to wax on that surface seeing as there are no blemishes to remove.
Can this method be used on a surface that already has several coats of wax on it without harming the finish?
Great video! The finish is gorgeous!
You will wear some of the old wax off which should improve transparency of the wood grain. Try a spot, nothing to lose...
Thanks for the fantastic video. Just what I was looking for. Will Butcher's Wax work as well?
I don't see why not. I have never thought of using it, good question.
Thank you for your reply! Will let you know how it works out.
Very impressive, thank you! I’m thinking about doing this to the dining table that I have made. Got one question though, How long after applying the wax do you start buffing it?
When I use paste wax I apply it with a lint free cloth, I leave it to dry for 10 minutes and then I buff it with 0000 steel wool.
What’s the difference between Minwax paste wax and any other paste wax such as Howard’s paste wax?
I can’t say, but over the years, I’ve used different brands and types of wax. The important thing is that it lubricants the steel wool so it doesn’t scratch the varnished surface.
I just bought the Minwax Paste. Can I use this and the wool steel on my hardwood floors to seal it?
Pretty tough job to do to a whole room floor. It’s hard enough work doing just a table top. It does make for a great job though.
Great technique. I use 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits after the last coat of poly cures, and it works very well. I'll bet the finishing wax step will make it even nicer. I'm wondering if I can use 0000 for all the steps, or should I get some 00 steel wool for the wax application?
The 00 is for quicker cutting of dust and imperfections. Keep enough wax on it and it won't scratch the finish.
I have a pair of Klipsch K-Horns in birch with lite Cherry stain and five coat lacquer finish. They are in a basement with a lot of spiders and one speaker has a fair amount of droppings. I used a polish that took the obvious to the eye away but running your hand over the wood you can feel tiny bumps. Would the wax and 0000 completely remove them? To me they are fine-looking clean but it's time to sell them and I need the feel to match the condition. Near Mint for a 1983 speaker set.
It should work fine. An option would be to use lemon oil and 0000 to reduce buildup of wax.
Thank you for the great video! What about the sides and end grain? How do you buff them up to look as good as the top? Just do the same as the table top?
The sides are the same as the top, the end grain could use finer steel wool and a lighter touch if there was not enough varnish or poly on it.
Thank you sir for the advice sir. Much appreciated.
That tabletops going to be president someday
Question hope you read this soon.. i built a walnut table top .. sanded 120,220, water pop ,, sand 220, 400 water pop 400.. then cleaned with tack cloth .. then we rubbed on tried and true finish .. table looks amazing .. the guy at the store told me to burnish with steel wool (how i came across your video) use the tried and true again .. which I will add second coat tonight .. in your video you said it needs several coats of finish before adding paste wax .. how many coats of the tried and true varnish before I try the paste wax .. or is that for a diff process from what I’m doing ? Thanks for the tips .. I don’t want to mess up my new table
Looks like you have a super smooth table. If it’s not going to get abused you can wax right over the bare wood. If I want to abuse it (drinks, food, etc.) I’d thin the first coat of varnish (varnish, polyurethane, tung oil) 10 to 15% and second coat at full strength (although I did just finish a wood swing and I thinned the final coat 5% so it would lay down smoother). Depending on the density of the wood 2 coats of finish may provide a good base to wax over.
@@MrHardware1 ok sounds good thanks for the quick reply.. yeah I did the second coat last night .. I’ll prob let cure for a couple of days before doing the wax .. yeah this this a dining table and will get used ..
Great video. Im a beginner..just did my table with Polyurethane and applied a couple coats of finishing wax with a cloth. But still not happy with results. Can i do this technique over the wax that i already applied?
Probably, if it gums up too bad use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to remove the old wax first.
Any idea what to do with stained timber table top with oil wax and issue is it has excess feeling of wax and stickiness which I would remove and smooth it out
Try using paint thinner on a rag first. That usually is a great way to remove excess wax. Somethings stronger that will work but probably will remove some of the stain is acetone used the same way.
I bought Liberon polish remover and they recommend using steel wool 0000 to apply. The result is it left scratches on a very nice dining table. Maybe I didn’t soak the wool enough. Will this technique help me get rid of these wool micro scratches? The table has the factory coats of varnish and PU. Thanks J
Stay w the grain and keep plenty of wax on the steel wool. Use 0000 also.
@@MrHardware1 thanks.
Can this be done on a table that’s been cured with Odies oil?
@@tammywalla7259 as long as the finish is hard enough. I’m not familiar with/Odies but I would try wax on the edge of the table to test.
Did you wait in between applying with 00 and buffing off with 0000? I applied this technique to a Birch plywood desk top after poly dried and it worked beautifully. I applied the same technique to a multi board pine coffee table top and when I buffed with 0000 it got a little gunky and pieces of the steel wool was coming off. I then applied major elbow grease which seemed to work, but I hope I didn't just take the wax layer off!
My thought is the finish wasn't fully cured. Or you had too much wax on the surface.
Love this idea and want. to try. You used natural to not change the color? Can I use a darker shade to darken my table top?
Yes it comes in a dark finish, but it will only darken the finish about 10%
@@MrHardware1 thanks!
Nice video.. I made a table top from walnut as well and I was using a mix of tung oil, poly and mineral spirits. I originally sanded it smooth to 400. My first two coats went on super well but I wanted to add more protection so added more coats.. third and fourth coats did leave some dull spots. As if someone ran their finger over the finish before curing. I sand in between each coat with 400 grit.
What are my options? Would this method work? Or should I try a 5th coat?
If the grain is sufficiently sealed I would use the wax but more finish won't hurt depending on the surface you want.
@@MrHardware1 I actually put a new coat with steel wool 0000 and then once cured, put some wax with a rag. I wasn't super happy with the steel wool as it introduced micro scratches.
I just completed putting my 3rd coat of Poly on a dining room table. So far the job looks pretty good. I want to use your steel wool method on it to finish the job. I found one blemish on the table that has what looks to be a brush hair on it. Will this steel wool method remove that? or should I do a 400 sandpaper on it?
400 on a flat block is quicker, be sure the Poly is cured hard enough to sand. If the sanding gums or rolls you are too soon.
With only 3 coats would it be safe to use the mineral spirits with the 400 sandpaper?
@@danwoolley7202 I would give it a try, now if when wet you think you might want another coat don’t apply the wax.
Hi Very Nice.
Would this work on a Bar Top.?.
Over a sealed surface (quality varnish or polyurethane) it is perfect. Too much wax can turn white from water stains but is easily repaired.
HI there - this looks great. Will it work OK with an oil-based varnish instead of polyurethane? And if so - will the 4-5 days curing time still be ok or do i need to wait longer? Thanks.
5 days should be plenty. Varnish is a little softer than poly so don't use too much elbow grease with the steel wool.
great thanks
Loved the video. Excited to try it out. Question: Instead of Minwax Paste, can I use the regular car polish wax like Turtle or Mother’s wax? Also, instead of 400 grit sand paper, can I use 320 grit or 0000 steel wool to rub with the mineral spirit? Thanks!!
I don’t think car waxes have enough body although they might work..... 320 paper is a little coarse, could leave scratches the steel wool might not get out.
@@MrHardware1 I tried your technique on the small piece of ash wood. While the finish is very smooth, it however dulled the poly significantly. I have applied 12 layers of minwax wipe-on clear satin poly and let it cured for 4 days. What am I doing wrong? Pls help. Thanks!
Great video! If I have 3 coats of polyurathane on, do I still need to use mineral spirits and sand before applying the wax? My concern is I don't want to wear through the finish too much. I also noticed there's a small spot I must have missed with the polyurathane on the last coat since it doesn't look as covered as the rest of the wood (about 2" x 2"). Any suggestions on what do do about that? I'm sure the steel wool / wax with smooth that out. I just don't want to mess up the protectiveness of the wood. Thanks!
You need to lightly sand the surface and apply another coat of polyurethane, now is the best time.
Excellent !!!
I plan on using your technique once my desk is done curing but wondering after wet sanding, do i wipe off the paint thinnner to make it dry before waxing with steel wool? Or do i just continue with wet surface without drying or dusting it?
Remove the excess paint thinner and let the residue evaporate away. The paint thinner is an inexpensive tack rag substitute to clean the surface.
How Can I Reduce the Sheen of an Oil Based Top Coat? I Used Semi Gloss and It's Too Shiny. Can I use your method to reduce the sheen?
Yes, but you’ll have to be consistent in your efforts so not to get multiple sheen’s. There is satin and even matt products you could use as a final coat that will result in a lower sheen.
Hi, I recently bought a 2nd hand table. The previous owner had sanded and refinished the table but i"m not sure what he used to seal it, if anything. It has a sheen but seems porous. I'd like to make the table more indestructible to water stains. This seems like it would help. Will this stop water ring stains? thanks
A coat or 2 (or 3) of a satin poly urethane finish will seal the wood to protect it, then the wax trick makes it a smoother finish and even more durable. Wax on open wood is not very protective.
Can you use this method over an oil finish?
You will have to test to see if the finish is hard enough to support the wax. I bet yes....
Blair, great video. I have an old door that I have stained + 7 coats of satin spar varnish. Even the satin is too shiny. Any tips on dulling that out? Do you think the 0000 wool alone work to help that?
I think 0000 is too fine unless you use it dry. Careful to keep checking for scratches. I would be trying 00 with a lubricant like the paste wax, but I've use furniture polish when I was out of town and couldn't get wax.
Great video, thanks! I notice that Minwax paste wax has both Natural and Special Dark shades. When using to buff poly to a satin sheen, do you always use the Natural or do you use the Dark on darker woods? I have applied several coats of oil-based poly over a dark (coffee) stain on oak. I'm worried the Natural will leave light streaks (or is it actually clear?), and the Dark will leave dark streaks 'floating' above the clear poly... Thanks!
No streaks either way, more of a slight darkening with the dark and nothing visible w the natural
@@MrHardware1 thank you for the feedback!
Hi and thanks for this video! I think it is what I was looking for... let's see. I have an inexpensive small side table I purchased as a place to put a nice Paul Nelson modern lamp I have. It's a nice design for the chair it sits next to, and for the lamp, but the darkish walnut veneer of the table top is somewhat "flat" and slightly uneven in terms of the sheen of the finish. I'd like to have a bit more depth to the grain and evenness to the finish. I believe that a slightly higher sheen could accomplish that (maybe half way between 'satin' and 'semi-gloss' to give a bit more surface reflection and highlight the nice lamp). I've searched a lot of finishing ideas on the web, but yours here seems to be something that will give a bit more of that diffused satin reflectiveness and richness. What do you think? If polishing wax is the way to go, would it darken the wood at all?
There is a clear and a dark wax by Minwax that I use. The clear may darken a little, the dark a little more. I feel it is worth the effect which ever way you go.
Thanks very much! Are there any wax products that can be used in this way that can influence the color? Perhaps provide a bit more warmth. If that would also produce more darkening, I would probably avoid that and just go for the the luster of the the clear Minwax that you describe.
Do you have to dry/wipe off the thinner after sanding?
Yes, I try to always work on as clean a surface as possible when applying any finish.
@@MrHardware1Maybe I did something wrong. After doing the thinner w 400 grit, the surface was a little pastie. It did kot seem like it would wipe dry very easily so I let it dry then used a tac cloth to remove the white dust that was left. The video was fantastic. It would have been good to see this part too. Thanks..
@@johnson7228 there’s a chance you’re finished wasn’t totally cured out and dry/hard. It can take over a week when humidity is high.
@@MrHardware1 thanks. it cured for about a month waiting for me to get back to it. :) turned out good in the end.