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I've worked in 5+ houses where Rubio Monocoat was used on the wood floors in the last eight years or so. I've seen thousands of square feet of it applied. It's tough, I return to properties for work and am always impressed with it's the durability over time. It touches up like a dream, you can actually just do spots and not have it flash like mad. Almost all my daily work is finishing, so I've always been about the 'tried and true'. Rubio has impressed me and has attained that status in my book. I was surprised to see so many woodworkers on YT using it, not sure why. Guess I thought it was a floor thing. My only complaint is sometimes open grain woods don't always fill enough to keep stuff from getting in the vessel elements and having to be sanded out. Waah.
I figured out what I love about this channel besides the obvious fun stuff like the intro. It’s not pretentious. Some wood workers are great for tutorial but some are so pretentious too serious. Not to mention this is the only channel with THE FORMAN who we need to see more of.
Thanks for this video. Finish always seems like the most intimidating part of the whole project because if you get it wrong it can be so much work to fix it.
Tuck Tape... used for sealing rigid foam board and sheathing, usually for wall insulation installs. Think of it as the multi-purpose duct tape version of packing tape. The stuff is great and sticks to everything, but can be peeled off with some effort. It is specifically recommended for epoxy applications as well (mold release). I always have a couple rolls on hand.
It’s originally for taping up seams on vapour barrier when insulating. It’s also brilliant for absolutely ruining your brother’s day by sticking it to the back of his head…
LOVE the floor sander buffing pad idea, man. For rags, I use old bed sheets from a charity shop. They usually have a hard time getting rid of them. On my last rags mission, they filled up a garbage bag with random sheets and through in a little Spiderman toy for my boy and charged me $5. Hack up the sheets and you’ve got rags for years.
For floors where we want to shine up the Rubio, we double coat it and let the second coat dry for an hour or so, then come back with a white buffer pad and hit the whole thing with that. Polishes it up and you don’t lose the ability to touch up or recoat later.
Do you mean you let the "pool" of finish set for an hour then wiped, then buffed - or you put on the second coat, wiped up the excess THEN waited an hour to buff?
For small voids like this I have switched to using the black glue sticks that is used for Paintless Dent Repair (PDR). It takes a good glue gun, but it works like a charm. It does not shrink and is ready to sand in the amount of time it takes for the glue to cool.
to answer your question as to what that tape is initially meant for, it's used to tape vapor barrier together so there isn't an open seam behind your drywall or siding. It's also used to tape the vapor barrier to your electrical boxes. this all just make sure you have a nice seal.
I love the look of white oak and am excited to work with it for the first time in my current project. I expected to go with Cotton White but found that Mist does the best at retaining the natural look of the white oak!
I discovered Monocoat this Spring and I LOVE it. Inspires me to do more projects because I really do suck at other types of finishes. This stuff is sooooo easy and looks fantastic.
I used Rubio for the first time about 2 years ago and instantly fell in love with the ease of application. I used a 275ml can plus the 75ml can of the 2C. 350ml of product covered a piece that was 72" x 36" x 24". I used every drop I had and it came out amazing. I would highly recommend Rubio for any project 👍
can you put blacktail studio's n3 finish on top of the rubio? hope you check random comments from older videos. going to be doing a white oak coffee table and not sure if the wife wants a super gloss finish or not. i like the rubio system (watched a lot of woodtubers using it). but i also like the protection of the n3.
I grew up on the Oregon Coast and spent quite a bit of time in the part of the Willamette Valley near your place, Go Beaves, one of the things I really miss now that I'm living in Montana are the Rhododendrons, love the ones outside your window near the end of the video. Love your content and delivery...
Rubio is my go-to stain. I refuse to use anything else. The color options, combinable stains to create custom color finishes, and durability of the product checks all my boxes. So easy to use and quick finishing. I love their latest upgrade to the maintenance oil- sheen plus. Adds a beautiful satin sheen that looks flawless.
Another helpful tip for you, you can use two strips of painters tape to pour from paint cans instead of having to use a syringe and having to clean it or toss it afterwards. On RUclips there is a 1min16sec video entitled "How to Pour Paint Without Making a Mess - Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford" that shows the technique.
Rubio tip - How to determine how much to mix up ? No one seems to mention this in videos and it’s critical to not wasting it due to cost (as you did mention). I’ve seen amounts needed such as 1floz (~30mL) per ~6.5sqft while others say to use 3.25-3.50mL/sqft. That’s total volumes for the 3:1 mixture.
I’m definitely going to follow your lead on this one. I’ve never stained anything but I need to learn because eventually I want to build furniture after I’m done with my house. I took an old rocking chair and started sanding it down and though I never really cared for that stain you use because I thought it was too late, I see that it would work perfectly on this chair. I hate that it’s so expensive but I guess you get what you pay for right. Thanks for the video. Can’t wait to try it.
@@coppulor6500 you can start wherever you like, it just depends on how much material you want to remove. You wont remove a lot with higher grits.. they are too smooth. So it may take very long and cost a lot in sandpaper to remove a lot of material. As for the "why", it's because following this rule will ensure that you're able to remove the previous grit's scratches. Just go in opposite directions until the previous grit's scratches are gone. Then you keep moving up to desired grit for smoothness.
@@coppulor6500 higher grit eats more material, and thus its helpful at removing saw marks, small scratches, removing dust, ash and whatnot that could be trapped inside the pores of the woods. tone down or remove fungal marks if you are working wilder wood, stains of paint, oil or glue that could have penetrated the fibers. in short, low grit homogenizes wood.
I really appreciate you doing this video. I've had Rubio in my cart 4 times and haven't purchased it because I didn't understand how to mix it and apply it. The price also threw me off, but seeing how much one can will do it seems in parity with other finishes on a per application basis. Thanks!
I just tried Rubio for the first time a couple months ago and loved it. I do recommend to take a project to the next level. It feels very good to the hand, smooth but still like wood. Just make sure you do s good job of the wipe off, I missed an area and it felt sticky days latter. Had to sand it off and reapply
Great video and entertaining as always, thanks! I agree about the glossy finish… I don’t mind it but I kinda prefer a more matte finish (never loved the look of polyurethane that a lot of people go with) PS: Sorry to hear about your dad… lost my dad a few years ago in my 20’s and it sucks! Prayers for you and your family!
What color Rubio is this? I made a shelf from Poplar and used oxalic acid to remove green but now it's very orange, found your video while researching finishing options. Thanks!
Just got my Spec Ops tools, Hammer, Tape, Utility knife, center punches, and chisel set, they are some great tools, love them. Thanks for turning me on to them. I plan on ordering some more.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Thanks for pointing out that all excess needs to be removed thoroughly after some time. This is where I messed up in the past and ended up with a unusable, sticky surface. In my (limited) experience this step is also necessary with other oil/wax surface finishes.
Another new convert to Rubio here. We just finished some walnut floating shelves with it today. Bought an extra because we didn't think the tiny little can could handle 100 bdft. Took less than two hours, the finish looks so clean and professional, unbelievably easy and fast. And that was in a 50° garage. AND, we didn't even use one 350ml can combo, still have about 1/5th left. When they say a little bit goes a loooooooong way, they aren't kidding. Sorry I sound like a shill here, but it really is that good, just blown away how much better it is than the poly we've been using at basically every concievable angle. Not going to be spending a day+ putting on half a dozen coats of stinking, running, lapping, dust-spotting poly that takes forever especially in cold weather. $60 for the tiny can may seem ludicrous if you're used to 4x the amount for 4x less price of regular varnish, but I'll say the quality and speed of the finish is actually a much better value than fighting multiple coats to make poly look good. Thanks Bourbon Moth for the heads up. That ends my commercial, I guess. Hemmed and hawwed over trying it because it seemed too good to be true- nope, wish I tried this stuff years ago. One of those rare products where it's not just marketing BS, it is everything they say.
Thanks for (as always) v helpful video. I’ve a question that may seem silly but I don’t recall seeing anyone address. How do you tell when to move on to the next grit level of sandpaper? Touch, feel, sight, sound, time? Cheers,
many people don't know how to sand! thank you! i'm a perfectionist and hate the stupid swirl marks/pig tails left by skipping grits. I pretty much always go 80,120,180,220,400(depending on the finish). Also, try odies oil :)
I don't have a compressed air gun, which one are you using? Also in the meantime can I use tack cloths to clean between sanding grits and then to clean off the wood before applying the rubio?
Some return knowledge for you, a tool tip, for $15 try out the new 3M Xtract Cubitron II Net Discs. 3M part number 88516 is their 6 inch 12 piece multi-pack that includes two each of 80/120/180/220/240/320 grits. You'll love them so much you will throw out those boxes of Festool sand paper and not even feel bad for doing it, the new 3M product is just that good.
Great video. I look forward to trying Rubio Monocoat on my next indoor project. What do you use for outdoor wood pieces (chairs, barbeque tables, etc.)?
This video came out with perfect timing. I am finishing up a pair of benchtop tool boxes for my sons that I built out of red oak. This ought to suit the job perfectly. Thanks Bourbon!
So if you opt for a second coat, (which Rubio Monocoat advises against,) do you lightly sand with a high grit or steel wool between the coats or just repeat the same process directly on top of your first coat. Thanks
Great Video! I would suggest that the rags are submerged in water after the application as we learned the hard way when left out by the trash in this method and one rags caught fire and tooks the can with it
when is the udnerside being done? would you let it cure first and then finish the underside, or coat the underside after the top has been wiped off of excess?
Another fantastic video! Thank you for what you doing. Question about the Rubio finish: Does the underside of the wood also need a coat so that wood doesn't warp in the future???
I'm no expert, but if i had to guess, knowing that it's mounted into a bench with walls on the sides, probably means the potential for warping down the road is pretty minimal. I'd also guess that it depends on the porosity of the wood you're using, but idk
I am new to the Rubio monocote. I do like it better than Osmo. The thing with the hardener or no hardener, with you can handle it in 24 hours, but full cure is about a week. Without the hardener, you can handle it in a day or two, but full cure takes about a month. I think they have a new 'top cote' which is ceramic and comes from the auto industry. Have yet to try that one.
Not sure why sanding is the most hated part. It's my favorite. I'll sand pieces to 400 or 800 grit so they are glossy before applying a finish. Sanding is great and worth the time if you are patient.
Stupid question, but how do you apply the finish on the edges? Do you just wipe the edges with the scotch pas that would have picked up some of the finish from rubbing?
Hi, I have 4mm marine beech plywood sliding cabinet doors. They are 30cmx50cm each. Do you think can I finish them with oil on one side and with wood paint on the other side? I don’t want to face unexpected troubles 😄
Do you have to finish the underside of the bench top? Wondering if there have been issues with warping after applying finish to only one side with Rubio.
Nice. But how did you get that nice finish on the cabinets below your beautiful top? This is what I want to know. How do you get a great finish on painted wood? Is there a video for that? Love your channel. ✌🏽🙏🏽
Have you tried a Mirka sander? I used to use the festool but switched to a Mirka... I found it much much more enjoyable to sand with. Also, I use a mesh style sand paper, way better dust extraction and I've never had a swrill mark left over after.
That's interesting. I bought a Mirka Deros to compliment my Rotex 150 and after getting to use a ETS 125 I sold my Mirka. To be honest, it was mostly due to Mirka's customer service being practically impossible to reach/deal with.
Around 15:00, does applying twice the necessary quantity, only to wipe it off and throw it away, really accomplish anything different, from say applying two or three coats of a penetrating finish, adding a bit only where it has soaked in? I began refinishing furniture 50 years ago with air catalyzing oils like Watco, and I find the current hype around "hard waxes" frankly an expensive folly, and a way to bill uninformed customers a premium. Oils harden, protect, and can be reapplied without any prep, stripping, resanding, etc. Waxes are pretty, but soft, easily drawn out by hot pans or plates, and seem largely a gimmick. Just my experience.
Osmo Polyx Hardwax Oil is safe for kids (rated by the EU for use on kids toys even), and I apply it the same way he applied rubio in this video. I normally do two coats of it but could probably get by with one depending on the wood like he does. Not sure if it is food safe though like for a butcher block.
Hi! we are working on our first big woodworking project and plan on using Rubio Monocoat, thanks to this video... We are stuck on a point where we need to use wood filler, but are unsure if the Rubio will cover it nicely... We have standard ol' Minwax wood filler...Will it work? Anyone happen to know offhand? My searches are coming up empty on actual info.
Thank you. First ever demo of the Rubio finish start to finish. This was very helpful. I’m ready to make the quantum leap from oil based poly crap to a more professional looking finish 🤞🏼
So is the Rubio just bring out the color of the species of wood you are using? So if you wanted a darker bench when you were done with it, would you have had to use a different species of wood so the color would be different? Or is there different colors or tints of Rubio to make your piece of wood come out in the color you like?
I cant help but wonder about using compressed air. Fine dust concerns me both in finishing and dust in shop air. Have you tried vac with brush attachment?
I have a bookcase which was coated with danish oil. Unfortunately the oil is still seeping from the wood, weeks after completion, meaning the shelves feel greasy and this oiliness transfers to the pages of books. My understanding is that the person who made the bookcase for me didn’t follow the correct process when applying the danish oil. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
In your video "easy diy storage cabinet build" it appears you are applying the inside of the hutch with a foam brush. Did you apply the inside different (no sanding or scrubbing) since it was on the inside or did you take all of these steps as well? I'm trying to figure out if the inside of my kitchen base cabinets and drawers require all of these steps or can a wipe one coat and be done
Amateur question here: if you want a deep black satin finish but with the grain still showing, would you paint this or use rubio? Does anyone know or know a video that explains this? Thanks :)
Depending on the species, there are a couple of ways to ebonize wood. The most obvious is with a black dye. You can also mix steel wool with distilled white vinegar and put it on species that have a lot of tannin. I think if you search for 'how to ebonize wood' on youtube you'll find a lot of methods.
Great video - as always, but why is Rubio any better than BLO + Poly + White spirit? I have read many complaints about Rubio finishes being easily marked with food and drink - and this is what makes me wonder if it is worth the considerable cost?
I know this is an old video, but what are some less expensive finishes that are good? Starting out, I can't afford Rubio. I have been making a beeswax/mineral spirits mixture, but want to see what others are good.
Hi everyone. I'm about to attempt my first big project. Would Rubio be a good product for kitchen countertops? I'm using rough cut hickory. 11/2" thick. Great video by the way.
I"m looking at different finishes for a set of cherry stair treads. Will the Rubio finish have blotchy spots like a normal stain? Or do you have to "seal" the grain first with a preconditioner?
To start comparing quotes and simplify insurance-buying, check out Policygenius policygenius.com/bourbonmoth. Thanks to Policygenius for sponsoring this video!
Saw a weird ad with your video. Not sure if you knew. ruclips.net/video/YXGImnK9eFI/видео.html
Are you ever going to release the linseed oil test footage unedited?
I've worked in 5+ houses where Rubio Monocoat was used on the wood floors in the last eight years or so. I've seen thousands of square feet of it applied. It's tough, I return to properties for work and am always impressed with it's the durability over time. It touches up like a dream, you can actually just do spots and not have it flash like mad. Almost all my daily work is finishing, so I've always been about the 'tried and true'. Rubio has impressed me and has attained that status in my book. I was surprised to see so many woodworkers on YT using it, not sure why. Guess I thought it was a floor thing. My only complaint is sometimes open grain woods don't always fill enough to keep stuff from getting in the vessel elements and having to be sanded out. Waah.
Sanding is a wonderful time to catch up on podcasts and deep thoughts.
I figured out what I love about this channel besides the obvious fun stuff like the intro. It’s not pretentious. Some wood workers are great for tutorial but some are so pretentious too serious. Not to mention this is the only channel with THE FORMAN who we need to see more of.
Don’t mess with the Forman! He’s the real talent, I am just sure of it. 😉 Agreed, wonderful channel, for lots of reasons.
Having messed up a few projects with bad finish, this has been really helpful. Thank you.
I just finished my first woodworking project. I used Rubio and several other tips from Jason's videos. Thank you for the content and help!
Thanks for this video. Finish always seems like the most intimidating part of the whole project because if you get it wrong it can be so much work to fix it.
glue up for me
Tuck Tape... used for sealing rigid foam board and sheathing, usually for wall insulation installs. Think of it as the multi-purpose duct tape version of packing tape. The stuff is great and sticks to everything, but can be peeled off with some effort. It is specifically recommended for epoxy applications as well (mold release). I always have a couple rolls on hand.
Just don't put it on glass
@@ben68442 You know that warning means someone is gonna try it.
@@ben68442 - does it stick too well to glass?
It’s originally for taping up seams on vapour barrier when insulating. It’s also brilliant for absolutely ruining your brother’s day by sticking it to the back of his head…
LOVE the floor sander buffing pad idea, man. For rags, I use old bed sheets from a charity shop. They usually have a hard time getting rid of them. On my last rags mission, they filled up a garbage bag with random sheets and through in a little Spiderman toy for my boy and charged me $5. Hack up the sheets and you’ve got rags for years.
For floors where we want to shine up the Rubio, we double coat it and let the second coat dry for an hour or so, then come back with a white buffer pad and hit the whole thing with that. Polishes it up and you don’t lose the ability to touch up or recoat later.
Do you mean you let the "pool" of finish set for an hour then wiped, then buffed - or you put on the second coat, wiped up the excess THEN waited an hour to buff?
For small voids like this I have switched to using the black glue sticks that is used for Paintless Dent Repair (PDR). It takes a good glue gun, but it works like a charm. It does not shrink and is ready to sand in the amount of time it takes for the glue to cool.
to answer your question as to what that tape is initially meant for, it's used to tape vapor barrier together so there isn't an open seam behind your drywall or siding. It's also used to tape the vapor barrier to your electrical boxes. this all just make sure you have a nice seal.
I love the look of white oak and am excited to work with it for the first time in my current project. I expected to go with Cotton White but found that Mist does the best at retaining the natural look of the white oak!
I discovered Monocoat this Spring and I LOVE it. Inspires me to do more projects because I really do suck at other types of finishes. This stuff is sooooo easy and looks fantastic.
I used Rubio for the first time about 2 years ago and instantly fell in love with the ease of application. I used a 275ml can plus the 75ml can of the 2C. 350ml of product covered a piece that was 72" x 36" x 24". I used every drop I had and it came out amazing. I would highly recommend Rubio for any project 👍
its expensive as shit for so low coverage. regardless of how well it performs.
@@skarpskyttarwhat does low coverage mean?
can you put blacktail studio's n3 finish on top of the rubio? hope you check random comments from older videos. going to be doing a white oak coffee table and not sure if the wife wants a super gloss finish or not. i like the rubio system (watched a lot of woodtubers using it). but i also like the protection of the n3.
Same type of question for me.
Ok, but why make the epoxy black? I kept waiting for the step where it blends in.
I grew up on the Oregon Coast and spent quite a bit of time in the part of the Willamette Valley near your place, Go Beaves, one of the things I really miss now that I'm living in Montana are the Rhododendrons, love the ones outside your window near the end of the video. Love your content and delivery...
Rubio is my go-to stain. I refuse to use anything else. The color options, combinable stains to create custom color finishes, and durability of the product checks all my boxes. So easy to use and quick finishing. I love their latest upgrade to the maintenance oil- sheen plus. Adds a beautiful satin sheen that looks flawless.
Another helpful tip for you, you can use two strips of painters tape to pour from paint cans instead of having to use a syringe and having to clean it or toss it afterwards. On RUclips there is a 1min16sec video entitled "How to Pour Paint Without Making a Mess - Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford" that shows the technique.
Excellent. Millions of people are thinking "That's so simple, why didn't I think of that?"
That's a great tip; thank you for that!!
Rubio tip - How to determine how much to mix up ? No one seems to mention this in videos and it’s critical to not wasting it due to cost (as you did mention). I’ve seen amounts needed such as 1floz (~30mL) per ~6.5sqft while others say to use 3.25-3.50mL/sqft. That’s total volumes for the 3:1 mixture.
So? People figure it out
I’m definitely going to follow your lead on this one. I’ve never stained anything but I need to learn because eventually I want to build furniture after I’m done with my house. I took an old rocking chair and started sanding it down and though I never really cared for that stain you use because I thought it was too late, I see that it would work perfectly on this chair. I hate that it’s so expensive but I guess you get what you pay for right. Thanks for the video. Can’t wait to try it.
Good timing watching this, about to start finish work on my new office desk.
For the grits, it's easy to remember by not going past 150% of the previous.
80 to max 120
120 to max 180
180 to max 270
Etc...
newb here. why do you have to sand in such increments? why not just start at 180 or 220?
@@coppulor6500 you can start wherever you like, it just depends on how much material you want to remove. You wont remove a lot with higher grits.. they are too smooth. So it may take very long and cost a lot in sandpaper to remove a lot of material.
As for the "why", it's because following this rule will ensure that you're able to remove the previous grit's scratches. Just go in opposite directions until the previous grit's scratches are gone. Then you keep moving up to desired grit for smoothness.
@@coppulor6500 higher grit eats more material, and thus its helpful at removing saw marks, small scratches, removing dust, ash and whatnot that could be trapped inside the pores of the woods. tone down or remove fungal marks if you are working wilder wood, stains of paint, oil or glue that could have penetrated the fibers. in short, low grit homogenizes wood.
@@archael18 thank you!
@@vittocrazi thank you 👍
I really appreciate you doing this video. I've had Rubio in my cart 4 times and haven't purchased it because I didn't understand how to mix it and apply it. The price also threw me off, but seeing how much one can will do it seems in parity with other finishes on a per application basis. Thanks!
I just tried Rubio for the first time a couple months ago and loved it. I do recommend to take a project to the next level. It feels very good to the hand, smooth but still like wood. Just make sure you do s good job of the wipe off, I missed an area and it felt sticky days latter. Had to sand it off and reapply
Great video and entertaining as always, thanks! I agree about the glossy finish… I don’t mind it but I kinda prefer a more matte finish (never loved the look of polyurethane that a lot of people go with)
PS: Sorry to hear about your dad… lost my dad a few years ago in my 20’s and it sucks! Prayers for you and your family!
Great advice on the Rubio Monocoat! We built a walnut and black iron console table this weekend and the finish was fast and looks amazing!
What color Rubio is this? I made a shelf from Poplar and used oxalic acid to remove green but now it's very orange, found your video while researching finishing options.
Thanks!
Just got my Spec Ops tools, Hammer, Tape, Utility knife, center punches, and chisel set, they are some great tools, love them.
Thanks for turning me on to them.
I plan on ordering some more.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Thanks for pointing out that all excess needs to be removed thoroughly after some time. This is where I messed up in the past and ended up with a unusable, sticky surface. In my (limited) experience this step is also necessary with other oil/wax surface finishes.
I've used it on a few projects. It works great! I might use it when I refinish my maple floors.
Another new convert to Rubio here. We just finished some walnut floating shelves with it today. Bought an extra because we didn't think the tiny little can could handle 100 bdft. Took less than two hours, the finish looks so clean and professional, unbelievably easy and fast. And that was in a 50° garage. AND, we didn't even use one 350ml can combo, still have about 1/5th left. When they say a little bit goes a loooooooong way, they aren't kidding.
Sorry I sound like a shill here, but it really is that good, just blown away how much better it is than the poly we've been using at basically every concievable angle. Not going to be spending a day+ putting on half a dozen coats of stinking, running, lapping, dust-spotting poly that takes forever especially in cold weather. $60 for the tiny can may seem ludicrous if you're used to 4x the amount for 4x less price of regular varnish, but I'll say the quality and speed of the finish is actually a much better value than fighting multiple coats to make poly look good. Thanks Bourbon Moth for the heads up.
That ends my commercial, I guess. Hemmed and hawwed over trying it because it seemed too good to be true- nope, wish I tried this stuff years ago. One of those rare products where it's not just marketing BS, it is everything they say.
dis video was so fun to watch. i just finished a project and am looking to get into more. u definitely just gained a subscriber
you mentioned adding a second coat to black walnut, any other wood species you add a second coat to?? ambrosia maple?
What color finish did you use here? Great work by the way!
Good question. I'm trying to read the can on the video but too blurry
You sir are a fool, in the traditional sense, and it makes the whole channel good fun. I look forward to every video. :)
Thanks for (as always) v helpful video. I’ve a question that may seem silly but I don’t recall seeing anyone address. How do you tell when to move on to the next grit level of sandpaper? Touch, feel, sight, sound, time? Cheers,
I thought Rubio was going to be another type of stain but the finish is awesome. I’m a believer
many people don't know how to sand! thank you!
i'm a perfectionist and hate the stupid swirl marks/pig tails left by skipping grits. I pretty much always go 80,120,180,220,400(depending on the finish).
Also, try odies oil :)
I don't have a compressed air gun, which one are you using? Also in the meantime can I use tack cloths to clean between sanding grits and then to clean off the wood before applying the rubio?
Tuck tape is commonly used for taping the seams in vapour barrier.
House wrapping was what it was designed for
Tuck tape. I thought that was used by some men in the entertainment industry.
@@7thplanet121 I believe you are thinking of Gaffers tape
@@salvatoreclaps4374 - I think he is thinking of medical tape used by cross dressers 😂
Pfft, everyone knows it’s for fixing a smashed tail light for $3
Can a stain be used for darker finish then apply the Rubio product
Some return knowledge for you, a tool tip, for $15 try out the new 3M Xtract Cubitron II Net Discs. 3M part number 88516 is their 6 inch 12 piece multi-pack that includes two each of 80/120/180/220/240/320 grits. You'll love them so much you will throw out those boxes of Festool sand paper and not even feel bad for doing it, the new 3M product is just that good.
I have some and love the stuff.
If I wanted to build an outdoor table, what kind of wood and what kind of waterproof or weather resistant sealer or stain is better?
Great video. I look forward to trying Rubio Monocoat on my next indoor project. What do you use for outdoor wood pieces (chairs, barbeque tables, etc.)?
I’d love to know the answer to this as well.
This video came out with perfect timing. I am finishing up a pair of benchtop tool boxes for my sons that I built out of red oak. This ought to suit the job perfectly. Thanks Bourbon!
So if you opt for a second coat, (which Rubio Monocoat advises against,) do you lightly sand with a high grit or steel wool between the coats or just repeat the same process directly on top of your first coat. Thanks
Great Video! I would suggest that the rags are submerged in water after the application as we learned the hard way when left out by the trash in this method and one rags caught fire and tooks the can with it
when is the udnerside being done? would you let it cure first and then finish the underside, or coat the underside after the top has been wiped off of excess?
Another fantastic video! Thank you for what you doing. Question about the Rubio finish: Does the underside of the wood also need a coat so that wood doesn't warp in the future???
I'm no expert, but if i had to guess, knowing that it's mounted into a bench with walls on the sides, probably means the potential for warping down the road is pretty minimal. I'd also guess that it depends on the porosity of the wood you're using, but idk
I am new to the Rubio monocote. I do like it better than Osmo. The thing with the hardener or no hardener, with you can handle it in 24 hours, but full cure is about a week. Without the hardener, you can handle it in a day or two, but full cure takes about a month. I think they have a new 'top cote' which is ceramic and comes from the auto industry. Have yet to try that one.
Not sure why sanding is the most hated part. It's my favorite. I'll sand pieces to 400 or 800 grit so they are glossy before applying a finish. Sanding is great and worth the time if you are patient.
Stupid question, but how do you apply the finish on the edges? Do you just wipe the edges with the scotch pas that would have picked up some of the finish from rubbing?
Nice work, thanks for the breakdown. How did you finish the face frame and drawer fronts of the bench? Thanks!!
Hi, I have 4mm marine beech plywood sliding cabinet doors. They are 30cmx50cm each. Do you think can I finish them with oil on one side and with wood paint on the other side? I don’t want to face unexpected troubles 😄
What finish would you use for a table top, something that would get the occasional condensation and dribbles from glasses and beverages?
+1
RUBIO
Oil Plus 2C is wear, water and heat resistant. :)
Do you have to finish the underside of the bench top? Wondering if there have been issues with warping after applying finish to only one side with Rubio.
do you recommend any products for water resistant for wood?
I spoke with a Rep from Rubio Mono. And he says the Accelerator actually prolongs the finish to lay longer. It does not just speed up the cure time.
Nice. But how did you get that nice finish on the cabinets below your beautiful top? This is what I want to know. How do you get a great finish on painted wood? Is there a video for that? Love your channel. ✌🏽🙏🏽
Have you tried a Mirka sander? I used to use the festool but switched to a Mirka... I found it much much more enjoyable to sand with. Also, I use a mesh style sand paper, way better dust extraction and I've never had a swrill mark left over after.
That's interesting. I bought a Mirka Deros to compliment my Rotex 150 and after getting to use a ETS 125 I sold my Mirka. To be honest, it was mostly due to Mirka's customer service being practically impossible to reach/deal with.
Same question as Sean Brotherton. I didn't see anthing in the product list regarding sanding. What is ETS?
Between Rubio and water-based poly, which do you like/recommend? And why?
I didn't see the info in the video but what color of the Rubio 2c did you use in the white oak? The final product looks amazing.
Around 15:00, does applying twice the necessary quantity, only to wipe it off and throw it away, really accomplish anything different, from say applying two or three coats of a penetrating finish, adding a bit only where it has soaked in? I began refinishing furniture 50 years ago with air catalyzing oils like Watco, and I find the current hype around "hard waxes" frankly an expensive folly, and a way to bill uninformed customers a premium. Oils harden, protect, and can be reapplied without any prep, stripping, resanding, etc. Waxes are pretty, but soft, easily drawn out by hot pans or plates, and seem largely a gimmick. Just my experience.
I use polyester with hardener..by Superior. I then use a color from my dry pigment selection. Works great!
Any recommendations for pieces which need to be food safe and/or children’s furniture?
Osmo Polyx Hardwax Oil is safe for kids (rated by the EU for use on kids toys even), and I apply it the same way he applied rubio in this video. I normally do two coats of it but could probably get by with one depending on the wood like he does. Not sure if it is food safe though like for a butcher block.
Thanks for another great video! About the Rubio Monocoat, if I want my black walnut wood to keep its natural color, is ''Pure'' the one to use ?
Thixo is a great choice for those fills! Nicely done!
What type of material is that puffing pad mad out of? It almost looks like packing foam?
can you use this on cutting boards for food?
Hi! we are working on our first big woodworking project and plan on using Rubio Monocoat, thanks to this video... We are stuck on a point where we need to use wood filler, but are unsure if the Rubio will cover it nicely... We have standard ol' Minwax wood filler...Will it work? Anyone happen to know offhand? My searches are coming up empty on actual info.
Rubio makes there own filler.
Thank you. First ever demo of the Rubio finish start to finish. This was very helpful. I’m ready to make the quantum leap from oil based poly crap to a more professional looking finish 🤞🏼
Do you typically wear a respirator when applying Rubio?
First time viewer here. He’s funny AF! No idea what he’s talking about but I’m coming back for the laughs 🤘
You can get the white scotchbrite pads at lowe's by the sandpaper FYI. They have household uses as well. I usually cut them into 1/3ds
So is the Rubio just bring out the color of the species of wood you are using? So if you wanted a darker bench when you were done with it, would you have had to use a different species of wood so the color would be different? Or is there different colors or tints of Rubio to make your piece of wood come out in the color you like?
I cant help but wonder about using compressed air. Fine dust concerns me both in finishing and dust in shop air. Have you tried vac with brush attachment?
For when you don't want to cover everything you own with dust...
I have a bookcase which was coated with danish oil. Unfortunately the oil is still seeping from the wood, weeks after completion, meaning the shelves feel greasy and this oiliness transfers to the pages of books. My understanding is that the person who made the bookcase for me didn’t follow the correct process when applying the danish oil. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
Any reason why you go 150 instead of 180? Or just do 120 then 220 and call it a day? Have you experimented to see if there is a noticeable difference?
In your video "easy diy storage cabinet build" it appears you are applying the inside of the hutch with a foam brush. Did you apply the inside different (no sanding or scrubbing) since it was on the inside or did you take all of these steps as well? I'm trying to figure out if the inside of my kitchen base cabinets and drawers require all of these steps or can a wipe one coat and be done
😂love your videos … so funny and educational at the same time … keep ‘em coming !!!!😅
Amateur question here: if you want a deep black satin finish but with the grain still showing, would you paint this or use rubio? Does anyone know or know a video that explains this? Thanks :)
Depending on the species, there are a couple of ways to ebonize wood. The most obvious is with a black dye. You can also mix steel wool with distilled white vinegar and put it on species that have a lot of tannin.
I think if you search for 'how to ebonize wood' on youtube you'll find a lot of methods.
Rubio makes a pre color black you use first then their black 2 part over it.
Try Precolor Easy Intesense Black! Usually people will choose to finish with Oil Plus 2C Black, Charcoal or Pure. :)
Wow thanks guys!!
Rubio always turns out well. Great video on how to mix and apply. Thanks!
@2:36: Tuck tape is for sealing vapor barrier, such as in walls and ceilings.
I bet a tack cloth would work really good to get all the dust. We would use those for final step before painting cars
Can you use Rubio on a butcher block kitchen counter?
How does Rubio Monocoat with wipe on application? I have some table legs that I need to finish.
Great video - as always, but why is Rubio any better than BLO + Poly + White spirit? I have read many complaints about Rubio finishes being easily marked with food and drink - and this is what makes me wonder if it is worth the considerable cost?
Can you use Rubio on stained projects?
Hello! What natural no voc product can I use to finish my hardwood floors ?
I know this is an old video, but what are some less expensive finishes that are good? Starting out, I can't afford Rubio. I have been making a beeswax/mineral spirits mixture, but want to see what others are good.
Can I use this on oak wood floors will it be durable enough rather than urathane
Is rubio the same idea as osmo polyx hardwax oil.?? Thanks
After the Rubio cured, did you need to sand a final finish, or buff it?
I love sanding, it’s like doing dishes but actually relaxing and not as strenuous for me. Lol. It’s funny how many wood workers hate sanding.
Hi everyone. I'm about to attempt my first big project. Would Rubio be a good product for kitchen countertops? I'm using rough cut hickory. 11/2" thick. Great video by the way.
I"m looking at different finishes for a set of cherry stair treads. Will the Rubio finish have blotchy spots like a normal stain? Or do you have to "seal" the grain first with a preconditioner?
I'm about to build a speaker kit and the cabinets are baltic birch plywood. Would you recommend Rubio for such an application?