You have no idea, NO IDEA, how much this video has helped to simplify things, I can't be the only one that is overhelmed by information on how to finish wood, this video just makes the decision making so much easier, honestly, after the youtube rabbit hole I have been down, you would think deciding on a finish was harder than building the actual furniture
Putting paint brushes in a "zip-lock" bag has been a game changer for me. I used to regret having to finish projects with any kind of finish because I had to clean the brush each time. Now I put the brush in the bag and it's ready for the next coat. Steve, great idea, and thanks for the tip!
This is the absolute best tutorial I've ever seen on any diy video. So much information without all the unnecessary 'blah blah blah' about nothing. You've done an excellent job staying on point and explaining the differences in each of these techniques. So many tutorials lose me when people talk talk talk too much. Thank you for the informative 'right to the point' explanation on each technique and product.
Honestly I watched the whole sponsorship plug just because he had the courtesy to put it at the end of the video. Also, it had a D&D reference. I like this guy.
I wasn't aware that wood finish and staining were two different things before your videos! Thank you! This has been incredibly helpful! The simple language and thorough explanations are invaluable.
Wow I had like 3 instances where I was like great I'm going with this technique only hear about the next one and then the next even better one. Very comprehensive and informative video. Thank you.
Linseed oil, then spray laquer is my go to finish, no need to remove dust when applying Linseed oil but I do clean off dust when applying spray can Laquer, my way !
Finally! The only person on RUclips who knows how to apply lacquer. It makes me cringe watching videos of people brushing back and forth (without enough lacquer on the brush) and then going back and brushing over the part that is half dry already. It dries in 30 seconds. One long brush stroke is all that is needed. I'm going to watch all of his videos now!
Don't forget, as a last step, consider burnishing the finish with something like a brown paper such as grocery bag. And never lacquer outdoor wood, it allows mold growth (I've done it and have seen it). If you don't want your finish to yellow over time, don't use oil based polyurethane. On something like hickory, catalpa or sycamore, you probably don't want it to yellow so use the water based type.
@LightningStrikes66 Teak oil or Spar Varnish are both the correct answer. But... the one thing you absolutely HAVE to understand about outdoor wood finishing is that they are MAINTENANCE finishes!!! You absolutely must get out there (once a year if you want it to be quick and easy, once every 3 years if you want to dedicate a whole 3 day weekend to it ) with your orbital sander, or palm sander (NOT a belt sander) and hit all your surfaces. Brush all the dust off, use a tack rag (use seversl tack rags) then one coat of finish. (If you're the every 3 yesrs guy, you'll prolly wanna hit it with some fresh stain also). Once a year maintenance doesn't even need the power sander, just a sheet of 180 or 220 grit sandpaper, folded up and swiped up and down the wood, then brush on your coat of OIL BASED marine spar varnish, or rag on a generous serving of Teak Oil (thinned 10%-20% with paint thinner), let it sit there for 15 minutes, wipe off your excess, and you're done!
I’m building a guitar for my dad for his birthday and he loves natural wood finishes without the fluff of stain or paint. Thank you so much for helping me make this for him!
Most comprehensive and easy to watch "wood finish" video ever!! Glad to hear you like lacquer, that ended up being my choice. Thus this video really was perfect for someone who needed to finish a buttload of pine shelves!!
I love TruOil, it's mostly used for gunstocks. It goes on like an oil finish where you apply by hand and layer it, but it's a bit more durable similar to a lacquer. It really pops the wood and the figuring and it allows the wood to age and change color. Great on cherry. You can even put some furniture wax on it once it is set, but that needs to be removed for touchups.
I am as beginner and amateur as they come, but this video has been remarkably informative and I know exactly what I want to use, how, and why. THANKS!!
Safety tip; When using Linseed oil make sure you don't ball up the rags you used to apply it and throw them in the trash. Linseed oil can actually spontaneously com-bust if you have enough of it soaked into a bunch of flammable paper towels and throw them all in a hot small trash can together.
Beware of everything that's mineral spirits-based, as well. Basically, I tend to soak used rags in water first, then dry them outside before throwing them away. It might be excessive but it's not hard to do and I'm pretty sure I'd regret it if I failed to take the necessary precautions even just once.
Wow, thanks for the tip. So if it's let's say winter and below 40degrees everyday, can you just toss the old rags in the garbage? If you don't mind, what is the best way to dispose of them? Thanks.
I actually paint all my working-shop tables and stuff i use for storing tools and so on, just so that i could test the finish and how it effects the wood. saves me from unwanted surprises later
Totally agree with you on paint, Steve. It makes me feel happy seeing bright colors. I stripped and refinished a couple of outdoor benches. They came from a Big Box Store, and after sitting outside for years, they were well worn. When I stripped them, I found wood filler in the factory product to cover up defects and bug holes. Those repairs weren't very well done, so I cleaned out loose filler, and used a two part wood filler. I was going to paint it, so I didn't care if the filler stained. The factory hardware choices weren't the best--aluminum and steel don't play well together. This led to some more wood fillering and new hardware.
Here is a good tip for polyurethaneing (oil based) If what you're doing his quite wide use a short nap roller, when you apply it , it will have a stipple to it when you roll it on but it will always lay flat. I find I get a much better finish then what I would do with a brush. Plus the added bonus that it applies a lot faster then using a brush
I just tried a new (to me) finish today on my first ever carving project... after sanding I coated the piece with beeswax and melted it with a small propane torch... the first two coats just soaked straight into the timber and I ended up putting 5 on all together, just polishing it on a buffing pad in a drill between coats... it's really brought the grain out in the wood and given it a lovely mellow glow
Love the video's! Im in the process of using Danish oil on a cremation urn. I used Red Oak and I think I will put a 3rd coat on but at this point the 2nd looks really nice. I made the urn for my wife and I and did several others with Red Oak and Mahogony and one for my brother of pine with bright brass handle and a Poly finish. I did a Red Oak for my sister-inlaw and the local Cremation Society told me that they thought they looked Beautiful and asked if I sold them. I had never thought of that as I enjoyed making them for family tributes!
I just found your channel, and, this video. I wish I had come across this three weeks ago - - would have saved me some time and more effort. I'm going to be sanding down a project that didn't come out the way I was hoping it would. Had I seen this first, it would have saved me some time, I'm sure. I love your instructional style. I'll be watching the rest of your work as well. Thank you for this great resource!
It is so rare to find teachers that give ALL the info you need and recommend tools and everything. Thank you so much, i have a lot of catching up to do on your content and I'm enjoying it all!
This video helped me a lot. I have been testing water based stain and poly in one and I was brushing back and forth and with this video, I learned a lot and the do's and don'ts.
Doing my first project and I just love this channel. It's like learning woodworking from some of my favorite bosses/professors--knowledgeable enough to share his expertise in beginners' language and loves his craft so much that learning from him is just plain fun and exciting! Cheers, Mr Ramsey! I'm taking notes lol
This is my first time watching your channel. My neighbor suggested you as he watches and I am a beginner to woodworking. Thank you for the information. I will have to watch this one repeatedly. Thanks again!
I was looking for a video to finish and clearcoat a desk that I made for my daughter Your video was very informative and answered every question that I had. And unlike most of the guys on here and you don’t have an annoying way about you. Thank you very much helped me a lot
Grampa’s recipe for applying boiled linseed oil: Apply one coat per day for 3 days Apply one coat per week for 3 weeks Apply one coat per month for 3 months Apply one coat per year for 3 years I tried it once, somewhat imperfectly. Eventually hardens to a very water resistant finish but would make a very l-o-n-g youtube video.
Hey Steve. Thanks for the great info. I like to tell my customers that typically, finishing can take as long or longer than the actual build, but the end results are worth the effort.
Hello Steve, I'm a shop teacher and have watched your channel for years, used your videos as lesson plans numerous times, and I always learn something new each time I watch. I was wondering if you could explain what are the best options for OUTDOOR finishes. What should we never use outside? What is the best choice for high moisture areas? What is the best option for high UV areas? Thanks!
Hello Steve, I also find your videos to be great, please keep it up. My projects are interior (hand carved ) furniture made of African mohagany wood. After all the assembling and preparation is done I`m sealing first to allow for even penetration of the danish oil stain. Next comes usually around 3 coats of rubbed on danish oil stain which also seals the wood as well, thus revealing my question? Normally its the exposed areas of the furniture ( arms mostly) where the finish gets tested most that need to be durable, what`s the best finish to use over the oil deep penetrating stain? Secondly I usually spray my finishing but I`m not sure if that is best for working on hand carved, intricate and curved surfaces?
Dear sir i am a big fan of your work great work great video! I have a question i live in Thailand and i made a garden chair w would like to paint it grey to match with the house outside. My first question is can i use a paint sprayer to paint my wooden chair? 2. I would like to use a clear gloss finish of beger woodstain to use first and then paint it with a wood paint. Do you advise ? Is it possible or do you just advise a protective grey woodpaint? Thanks sir
I know this is a old video but used to be a cabinetmaker for over tens years. I did the staining and finishing, building. We used a type of sanding sealer then lacquer sometimes colored lacquer
It depends on the shade of Danish oil. If you just need natural it's less. But if you need a darker shade like Black Walnut you need about 4 times as many Danes because that involves a fermentation process and some oil is lost to evaporation during it. This is also part of why Black Walnut is a rarer more different shade to aquire.
Thanks for the great video!!! I have always used water-based poly because of the quick drying. Building a cabinet and am thinking of trying Oil for the first time. The only thing I can think of as an issue is if someone put a plant on it someday that leaked.
I'm pretty new to the woodworking game, I make small wooden totems. I would try bigger projects, but I live in a condo lol Anyway, I just wanted to mention that beeswax is a pretty good finish aswell: it smells great, provides protection, and if you need to, add some fractionated coconut oil to max the wax a bit more malleable. This works for super small totems for nothing more than aesthetic, at least. I'm not sure about bigger projects
I used gloss poly on my desk top and I spent way way to much time sanding in between coats it came out really really smooth. Way more than necessary but it was very very pleasing to look at.
I’ve been looking for a video like this for so long... this is what I wanted to see, everything explained in a easy way. It’s answered all of my questions in one go. Thank you for making such a informative and easy to understand video... GM from uk..
I have watched a LOT of RUclips help and informational videos - Steve is the most straight forward and highly informative person I have seen! Simple, Truthful, Informative and down home FUN to watch! All 5 Stars - Great Job!!
Thank you Steve. This is a great video! I keep going back to it after a couple of years since I first saw it. I’d like to suggest making a follow up video with finishes such as Osmo or Rubio Monocoat. I’d like to get your opinion on those. Other channels always feel like a commercial when talking about these products.
Shellac wasn't mentioned. Shellac (blonde) has been my favorite finish out of the ones I've tried so far. Simple to apply (wipe on with a rag), and you only need to wait something like 10 minutes to apply another coat. On larger projects, you don't even need to wait. For things things that need to take a lot of abuse, I've been using oil-based poly, but try to avoid it when I can because of the long wait-time in between coats. I have not tried lacquer yet; sounds like a good alternative to poly. I have used bar-top epoxy, but it is too soft and scratches too easily (maybe some brands cure harder than others?).
Hey Steve. Love the show. How would a wood stain affect these finishes? I personally prefer the look of walnut. At what stage can I apply the stain? and what can I finish it with for maximum resistance?
Really enjoyed the explanations on the SketchUp Basics video and thought to check out this one. Once again thoroughly enjoyed the depth and breadth of material covered, pretty well sold on your channel. I'm just getting started on this journey and appreciate this type of content. What really sealed the deal though was the D&D. That is the impetus for one of my first few projects, a DM screen and a small case to carry dice, minis, and other items. Perhaps one day, a gaming table with a built-in TV for a new take on gameplay. Now, onto the binge!
just so you know that minwax "Tung" oil doesn't actually contain much Tung oil at all. pure Tung oil is a different beast with an extremely long cure time of about 2 weeks but it has the advantage over the others of being 100% food safe once fully cured, and once it cures it makes the surface of the wood super hard and extremely resistant to water, I used it on some poplar and it was about as hard as hickory once cured.
yes i got minwax (or similar name brand) tung oil and it smells like nasty chemicals. i assumed they added something so it's thinner to penetrate better. i also have a small bottle of natural tung oil that's multiple times thicker, smells friendlier, and lubricates well when i set handles on tools
I feel like you are very knowledgeable about all of this and you have condensed a lot of information in this short video. For me, a little slower paced, a beginner's version will be better suited.
really like steve; he does not mumble, does not talk down to you, and is a decent bloke. he is also very knowledgeable; he is very credible, and has no ego.
You may want to bring up oil rag safety. They have been known to spontaneously combust. So I either dry them open/flat outside or stick them in a jar of water.
This was a fantastic and well done video. Never seen the channel but just subscribed. I really like the pace. It wasn't a short video but it went quickly and covered a lot. Now to do the hard part and decide which to choose!
This was a joy to watch even though I have no business knowing this stuff. Just really engaging and informative to a person who doesn't even do woodworking at all! (although I just made a small project and was curious) Well done!!
I like the color and grain after an application of linseed oil, but I want the protection of poly. What are the downsides (if any) to applying a wipe-on poly over an application of linseed oil?
Personal experience: I've always struggled with finishing wood and paint in general. In addition, maintining bristle brushes has always been a huge challenge for me. I simply can't seem to do it right and always make a mess. I've found that wipe on danish oil is without question the easiest and simplest finish I've ever tried. I know Steve prefers spray laquer, but I always make a mess with spray cans, and I'm too impatient to wait for the coats to dry. Danish oil applied with a rag or foam brush feels like it gets done by itself.
Use a timer relative to the humidity and temperature of your work space. Take your time opening the cans and watch the direction the liquid wants to go so you don’t spill it all over the place like a child
My biggest weakness has been finishing. So much info out there it gets very confusing. This has cleared a lot up for me and back to lacquer l go. Thank you.
I must say, out of every Steve Ramsay videoi have watched, i always chuckle a bit whenever he drops the micro Jig ad, i actually think its the only add i actually like haha
There are several ideas to think about before you begin a woodworking company Will you have help from your family? Are you someone who is self-motivated? Will you carry out the plan? Do you have the funds to begin? (I discovered these and why they work on Enata Wood System site )
Dante Alighieri dude calm down. Bill Nye has a doctorate in engineering. He’s a highly educated guy. Just because he believes in global warming and you don’t doesn’t mean he’s an activist 😂
I been woodworking for a long time. It’s all good, but when it comes to poly... yeah that’s a nope. Sometimes I get lucky and it comes out good. Mostly it’s always streaky. Today I was applying poly to a 1920’s vanity and boom 🤌🏼💥Thanks to this wonderful video, it ended up looking perfect no streaks. I’m very happy. Thank you!!!
1 million thanks man for this informative video I really need this for my home project this 16 minutes video save my life now I feel like I learned 6 months free classes from you only in 16 minutes wowwww you're amazing man "God bless you" Today I learn a lot once again thank you so much 👍❤✨💫😎
Steve I have watched numerous amount of your videos, and as always this was another very informative video. I'm retired and enjoying the hobby of woodworking and as I said earlier get a vast amount of knowledge from your videos, keep up the GREAT WORK!!!!!
@Steve Ramsey Sorry, but what you said about the protection abilities is just not correct. If you coat dry wood with plastic (which is basically what poly or lacquer are), it is only protected as long as the coat is 100% without flaws. Since wood expands and contracts in the sun and the heat, over time any coating will get flaws. So let's say you have a bench with a coat of lacquer. As soon as there is one little flaw, the wood will suck up rain water (capillar power) and the coating now will prevent the moisture from getting out. So the wood has perfect conditions to rod. If you use oil instead, there will enter some rain every time, but the wood will also dry out again. I strongly recommend doing or reading about long term comparisons on oil and plastic based finishes outside. You will see that the oil works great longterm whereas the lacquer will increase the decay of the wood drastically. In many cases a piece of wood without any finish will withstand the rain outside better than a piece of wood with a lacquer finish, since no moisture gets trapped within the plastic coating. That of course does not count if you manage to keep your plastic coatings 100% intact. But that could mean renewing the paint every couple of months and that is very impractical. Just imagine dry wood as a sponge. If you put it in a plastic bag and there is a tiny hole in the bag, the rain will soak in and the sponge will never dry out again. If it sits just in the rain, it gets wet, but it will also dry pretty fast. So please reconsider your recommendation and have a look at some long term tests.
I think it depends on the application. Your example of a bench is similar to a deck (horizontal surface, out in the rain and the sun, with people and objects knocking up against it a lot). The industry agrees with you (use oil, not paint for good hardwood that cops a lot of wear and abuse outdoors). The downside is you need to maintain the oil, re-oiling every year if your bench/deck/whatever is exposed to strong sunlight. But, the up-side is that putting another coat of oil on is a quick and easy job, whereas re-coating damaged paint needs a whole lot of preparation work and some skill. Steve's recommendation for "most durable finish" is opaque paint. Any paint that you can't see through will offer the best protection from the sun's UV rays, which is what damages wood the most and accelerates damage due to moisture. It's not unreasonable to get 6 - 8 years out of a good paint job in full sun. Clear paints (varnish/polyurethane etc) need re-coating a lot (every 1 - 2 years). Good quality outdoor paints and varnishes are designed to be flexible, so that they *don't* crack with expansion and contraction of the wood underneath. I'm not disagreeing with what you say - only saying that there are tradeoffs (re-oiling every year, vs doing a bit more work a lot less often, if you're prepared to cover your beautiful timber with coloured paint).
Well no shit. He's implying that the finish maintains its integrity. All you've said is that a half-assed oil finish is better than a half-assed poly finish.
comes down to expected maintenance if you have a wood deck you know it needs to be refinished every 2 years. i used a poly on my outside sink table and put on 6 coats and expect to sand it down a bit and add on 2 new layers every 4 years or so. rain and sun beats all with time.
thats why you really shouldn't use poly or lacqeur outdoors. Things like exterior 450 or outdoor oil from general finishes is meant to be outside and resist UV and rain. These will degrade much slower and are meant for the outdoors. Even on most poly cans and lacqeur cans it says "for indoor use only".
Whats your recommendation for finishing a Walnut wood on a kitchen island that is used for dinning only. I want it to feel natural, yet rich. I was considering a Danish Stain, then Poly and then Wax for a satin finish.
I'm too new- the linked videos aren't there yet, so I can finally live my dream of imagining what youtubers look like pointing to empty space while they talk!
Steve Ramsey it depends on the platform the viewer is using. I could see them on mobile, but not on my TV. it's always best to also include them in the description and mention that.
Hi Steve, as a newbie woodworker I enjoy your videos very much. I have a breadboard that I would like to finish with a 'food grade oil'. Can you tell me what that is?
Okay, I found my answer and updating in case anyone else needs an answer. What I found was Howard Butcher Block Conditioner 12oz size available in Oregon for $8
You are awesome! I’ve always been interested in woodworking and I just recently bought a book to help me get started. I decided it’s time to finally explore the interests I’ve always carried with me without making excuses as to why I can’t. I stumbled across your channel and I’m about 5 videos in. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into helping beginners learn how to get started. Thank you! I subscribed immediately.
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You have no idea, NO IDEA, how much this video has helped to simplify things, I can't be the only one that is overhelmed by information on how to finish wood, this video just makes the decision making so much easier, honestly, after the youtube rabbit hole I have been down, you would think deciding on a finish was harder than building the actual furniture
amen
Putting paint brushes in a "zip-lock" bag has been a game changer for me. I used to regret having to finish projects with any kind of finish because I had to clean the brush each time. Now I put the brush in the bag and it's ready for the next coat. Steve, great idea, and thanks for the tip!
This is the absolute best tutorial I've ever seen on any diy video. So much information without all the unnecessary 'blah blah blah' about nothing. You've done an excellent job staying on point and explaining the differences in each of these techniques. So many tutorials lose me when people talk talk talk too much. Thank you for the informative 'right to the point' explanation on each technique and product.
Honestly I watched the whole sponsorship plug just because he had the courtesy to put it at the end of the video. Also, it had a D&D reference. I like this guy.
Not only that, but he tells us to like and subscribe at the end, not the beginning, like everybody else.
Lol I was watching this so I could figure out how to finish some homemade dice trays for dnd
I actually liked the video from the tutorial, unchecked the like, just so I can check it again at the D&D reference!
idk what that means but he made it painless for you and you still sat through it xD
@@MrPaxio That's what I JUST said. ???
I wasn't aware that wood finish and staining were two different things before your videos! Thank you! This has been incredibly helpful! The simple language and thorough explanations are invaluable.
Wow I had like 3 instances where I was like great I'm going with this technique only hear about the next one and then the next even better one. Very comprehensive and informative video. Thank you.
Linseed oil, then spray laquer is my go to finish, no need to remove dust when applying Linseed oil but I do clean off dust when applying spray can Laquer, my way !
Dude, the microjig cut gets me every time. A+
Protect yourself and others, wear a mask, gloves and ventilate your working area, I was diagnosed with cancer for not being told just that
Are you still doing okay?
im sorry.
I hope you're doing well
Hope your back to full health, thanks for the much needed tip
well fuck i hope youre not dead homie stay safe!
Finally! The only person on RUclips who knows how to apply lacquer. It makes me cringe watching videos of people brushing back and forth (without enough lacquer on the brush) and then going back and brushing over the part that is half dry already. It dries in 30 seconds. One long brush stroke is all that is needed. I'm going to watch all of his videos now!
Hands down, the ABSOLUTELY best wood finishing video I have seen!
Thank you Sir!
You Rock!
Agreed, I learned so much.
***************Mor then a ************************100****
I feel like I can trust this guy. Seems friendly and smart.
Don't forget, as a last step, consider burnishing the finish with something like a brown paper such as grocery bag. And never lacquer outdoor wood, it allows mold growth (I've done it and have seen it).
If you don't want your finish to yellow over time, don't use oil based polyurethane. On something like hickory, catalpa or sycamore, you probably don't want it to yellow so use the water based type.
What would you say is best finish for outdoor wood?
@@LightningStrikes66 Probably teak oil.
Whats the best finish for a wood gunstock???
@@LightningStrikes66 : Paint. You need the protection, or spar urethane (it is used in boat building and is incredibly resilient)
@LightningStrikes66 Teak oil or Spar Varnish are both the correct answer.
But...
the one thing you absolutely HAVE to understand about outdoor wood finishing is that they are MAINTENANCE finishes!!!
You absolutely must get out there (once a year if you want it to be quick and easy, once every 3 years if you want to dedicate a whole 3 day weekend to it ) with your orbital sander, or palm sander (NOT a belt sander) and hit all your surfaces.
Brush all the dust off, use a tack rag (use seversl tack rags) then one coat of finish. (If you're the every 3 yesrs guy, you'll prolly wanna hit it with some fresh stain also).
Once a year maintenance doesn't even need the power sander, just a sheet of 180 or 220 grit sandpaper, folded up and swiped up and down the wood, then brush on your coat of OIL BASED marine spar varnish, or rag on a generous serving of Teak Oil (thinned 10%-20% with paint thinner), let it sit there for 15 minutes, wipe off your excess, and you're done!
Probably the best videos for info. This channel is where it’s at.
I’m building a guitar for my dad for his birthday and he loves natural wood finishes without the fluff of stain or paint. Thank you so much for helping me make this for him!
Most comprehensive and easy to watch "wood finish" video ever!! Glad to hear you like lacquer, that ended up being my choice. Thus this video really was perfect for someone who needed to finish a buttload of pine shelves!!
THIS WAS GREAT!!!! Best on RUclips I've found. Finishing wood gets complicated for lots of people.
Great job as usual.
It looks nicer if it’s applied evenly to all of the surfaces but it’s all personal preference.
I love TruOil, it's mostly used for gunstocks. It goes on like an oil finish where you apply by hand and layer it, but it's a bit more durable similar to a lacquer. It really pops the wood and the figuring and it allows the wood to age and change color. Great on cherry.
You can even put some furniture wax on it once it is set, but that needs to be removed for touchups.
There are a lot of youtubers out there. I just want you to know i keep coming back to your videos. You have a lot of great content. Thanks!
I am as beginner and amateur as they come, but this video has been remarkably informative and I know exactly what I want to use, how, and why. THANKS!!
Which one do you want to use? 🤠
Safety tip; When using Linseed oil make sure you don't ball up the rags you used to apply it and throw them in the trash. Linseed oil can actually spontaneously com-bust if you have enough of it soaked into a bunch of flammable paper towels and throw them all in a hot small trash can together.
I think this goes for Danish oil also
Beware of everything that's mineral spirits-based, as well. Basically, I tend to soak used rags in water first, then dry them outside before throwing them away. It might be excessive but it's not hard to do and I'm pretty sure I'd regret it if I failed to take the necessary precautions even just once.
Hey
My house burned down because off this, not Kidding. 5am 9/10/18 all gone, everything I ever made
Wow, thanks for the tip. So if it's let's say winter and below 40degrees everyday, can you just toss the old rags in the garbage? If you don't mind, what is the best way to dispose of them? Thanks.
My wife and I have been trying to figure out how to finish a benchtop for the past two days. This video saved my life.
I actually paint all my working-shop tables and stuff i use for storing tools and so on, just so that i could test the finish and how it effects the wood. saves me from unwanted surprises later
Totally agree with you on paint, Steve. It makes me feel happy seeing bright colors. I stripped and refinished a couple of outdoor benches. They came from a Big Box Store, and after sitting outside for years, they were well worn. When I stripped them, I found wood filler in the factory product to cover up defects and bug holes. Those repairs weren't very well done, so I cleaned out loose filler, and used a two part wood filler. I was going to paint it, so I didn't care if the filler stained. The factory hardware choices weren't the best--aluminum and steel don't play well together. This led to some more wood fillering and new hardware.
Here is a good tip for polyurethaneing (oil based)
If what you're doing his quite wide use a short nap roller, when you apply it , it will have a stipple to it when you roll it on but it will always lay flat.
I find I get a much better finish then what I would do with a brush. Plus the added bonus that it applies a lot faster then using a brush
I just tried a new (to me) finish today on my first ever carving project... after sanding I coated the piece with beeswax and melted it with a small propane torch... the first two coats just soaked straight into the timber and I ended up putting 5 on all together, just polishing it on a buffing pad in a drill between coats... it's really brought the grain out in the wood and given it a lovely mellow glow
How has the beeswax held up over time?
Love the video's! Im in the process of using Danish oil on a cremation urn. I used Red Oak and I think I will put a 3rd coat on but at this point the 2nd looks really nice. I made the urn for my wife and I and did several others with Red Oak and Mahogony and one for my brother of pine with bright brass handle and a Poly finish. I did a Red Oak for my sister-inlaw and the local Cremation Society told me that they thought they looked Beautiful and asked if I sold them. I had never thought of that as I enjoyed making them for family tributes!
Lovely idea Fred, could you show/email one of your urns...Many thanks B
@Hello Fred how are you doing
I just found your channel, and, this video. I wish I had come across this three weeks ago - - would have saved me some time and more effort. I'm going to be sanding down a project that didn't come out the way I was hoping it would. Had I seen this first, it would have saved me some time, I'm sure. I love your instructional style. I'll be watching the rest of your work as well. Thank you for this great resource!
@Hello Bob how are you doing
It is so rare to find teachers that give ALL the info you need and recommend tools and everything. Thank you so much, i have a lot of catching up to do on your content and I'm enjoying it all!
This video helped me a lot. I have been testing water based stain and poly in one and I was brushing back and forth and with this video, I learned a lot and the do's and don'ts.
Doing my first project and I just love this channel. It's like learning woodworking from some of my favorite bosses/professors--knowledgeable enough to share his expertise in beginners' language and loves his craft so much that learning from him is just plain fun and exciting! Cheers, Mr Ramsey! I'm taking notes lol
This is my first time watching your channel. My neighbor suggested you as he watches and I am a beginner to woodworking. Thank you for the information. I will have to watch this one repeatedly. Thanks again!
Ohmygod, I was already enjoying the channel but then the D&D part was everything I didn't know I needed!
I was looking for a video to finish and clearcoat a desk that I made for my daughter Your video was very informative and answered every question that I had. And unlike most of the guys on here and you don’t have an annoying way about you. Thank you very much helped me a lot
It’s amazing, after this 16 minute video I feel like an expert in timber finishing. This strange video can teach you more than a book! 👌
Grampa’s recipe for applying boiled linseed oil:
Apply one coat per day for 3 days
Apply one coat per week for 3 weeks
Apply one coat per month for 3 months
Apply one coat per year for 3 years
I tried it once, somewhat imperfectly. Eventually hardens to a very water resistant finish but would make a very l-o-n-g youtube video.
You and your videos are really crucial for what I am trying to do. Thank you so much, seriously...thanks man.
Love this channel. Straight forward. I've learned alot
a lot, not alot... You just learner another thing, you're welcome
@@dooshakhaboosha2573 learned...not "learner" another thing, your welcome!
@@frankcastle6298 that was meant to be a joke
@@dooshakhaboosha2573 joke failed grammar police 😂
4 year old video and still giving! thanks for all the info and good work!
@Hello Bradley how are you doing
The way you make anyone feel like they aren't stupid is a great quality to have. You have a lot of knowledge, but dont make stuff hard to get.
Hey Steve. Thanks for the great info. I like to tell my customers that typically, finishing can take as long or longer than the actual build, but the end results are worth the effort.
I love how you got right to it and didn't repeat yourself. Great video
Hello Steve, I'm a shop teacher and have watched your channel for years, used your videos as lesson plans numerous times, and I always learn something new each time I watch. I was wondering if you could explain what are the best options for OUTDOOR finishes. What should we never use outside? What is the best choice for high moisture areas? What is the best option for high UV areas? Thanks!
Hello Steve, I also find your videos to be great, please keep it up. My projects are interior (hand carved ) furniture made of African mohagany wood. After all the assembling and preparation is done I`m sealing first to allow for even penetration of the danish oil stain. Next comes usually around 3 coats of rubbed on danish oil stain which also seals the wood as well, thus revealing my question? Normally its the exposed areas of the furniture ( arms mostly) where the finish gets tested most that need to be durable, what`s the best finish to use over the oil deep penetrating stain? Secondly I usually spray my finishing but I`m not sure if that is best for working on hand carved, intricate and curved surfaces?
Dear sir i am a big fan of your work great work great video! I have a question i live in Thailand and i made a garden chair w would like to paint it grey to match with the house outside. My first question is can i use a paint sprayer to paint my wooden chair?
2. I would like to use a clear gloss finish of beger woodstain to use first and then paint it with a wood paint. Do you advise ? Is it possible or do you just advise a protective grey woodpaint?
Thanks sir
I know this is a old video but used to be a cabinetmaker for over tens years. I did the staining and finishing, building. We used a type of sanding sealer then lacquer sometimes colored lacquer
As a Dane I'm confused.
How many Danes did you have to squeeze to get that Danish oil?
Many
It depends on the shade of Danish oil.
If you just need natural it's less. But if you need a darker shade like Black Walnut you need about 4 times as many Danes because that involves a fermentation process and some oil is lost to evaporation during it.
This is also part of why Black Walnut is a rarer more different shade to aquire.
7
We just ask for danish volunteers to rub it out of them and then we scurry the bucket straight to the factory for canning.
Even more confusing
When you've squeezed all the oil out and applied it becomes Finnish.
Thanks for the great video!!! I have always used water-based poly because of the quick drying. Building a cabinet and am thinking of trying Oil for the first time. The only thing I can think of as an issue is if someone put a plant on it someday that leaked.
A Brazilian dentist learning a little more to be able to improve the carpentry skills.
Greetings from Brazil!!!
(again)
You could try one of these finishes on the denture, polyurethane, especially if the enamel has worn down over the years.
New Subscriber! Just picked this up as a hobby, watching this as a second video, and I've learned so much. I like how you explain everything.
I’m glad your channel randomly popped up on my feed. I’ve been wanting to work on shelves but have no idea what I’m doing. Thanks for the help
I'm pretty new to the woodworking game, I make small wooden totems. I would try bigger projects, but I live in a condo lol
Anyway, I just wanted to mention that beeswax is a pretty good finish aswell: it smells great, provides protection, and if you need to, add some fractionated coconut oil to max the wax a bit more malleable. This works for super small totems for nothing more than aesthetic, at least. I'm not sure about bigger projects
Your videos are the best!!! You get straight the questions and seem to know what I want to ask ahead of time. So freaking helpful!!
I used gloss poly on my desk top and I spent way way to much time sanding in between coats it came out really really smooth. Way more than necessary but it was very very pleasing to look at.
I’ve been looking for a video like this for so long... this is what I wanted to see, everything explained in a easy way. It’s answered all of my questions in one go. Thank you for making such a informative and easy to understand video... GM from uk..
I have watched a LOT of RUclips help and informational videos - Steve is the most straight forward and highly informative person I have seen!
Simple, Truthful, Informative and down home FUN to watch!
All 5 Stars - Great Job!!
@Hello How are you doing dear
Thank you Steve. This is a great video! I keep going back to it after a couple of years since I first saw it. I’d like to suggest making a follow up video with finishes such as Osmo or Rubio Monocoat. I’d like to get your opinion on those. Other channels always feel like a commercial when talking about these products.
Shellac wasn't mentioned. Shellac (blonde) has been my favorite finish out of the ones I've tried so far. Simple to apply (wipe on with a rag), and you only need to wait something like 10 minutes to apply another coat. On larger projects, you don't even need to wait. For things things that need to take a lot of abuse, I've been using oil-based poly, but try to avoid it when I can because of the long wait-time in between coats. I have not tried lacquer yet; sounds like a good alternative to poly. I have used bar-top epoxy, but it is too soft and scratches too easily (maybe some brands cure harder than others?).
Does stalactites have a natural colour finish, or does it change the colour of the wood?
Hey Steve. Love the show.
How would a wood stain affect these finishes?
I personally prefer the look of walnut. At what stage can I apply the stain? and what can I finish it with for maximum resistance?
No one hates hand work more than me, but I still enjoy these videos so much. What a great channel and content!
Another solid video helping me sort out the bits of sage knowledge I've picked up but never formalized. Thanks!
Really enjoyed the explanations on the SketchUp Basics video and thought to check out this one. Once again thoroughly enjoyed the depth and breadth of material covered, pretty well sold on your channel. I'm just getting started on this journey and appreciate this type of content. What really sealed the deal though was the D&D. That is the impetus for one of my first few projects, a DM screen and a small case to carry dice, minis, and other items. Perhaps one day, a gaming table with a built-in TV for a new take on gameplay. Now, onto the binge!
total side note: i've had my casper for about a year - and i LOVE it. seriously, look into it, especially since it's a boon to steve.
What Casper? The ghost
@@dcole302 ⁵⁶⁵I
What is a Casper?.
just so you know that minwax "Tung" oil doesn't actually contain much Tung oil at all. pure Tung oil is a different beast with an extremely long cure time of about 2 weeks but it has the advantage over the others of being 100% food safe once fully cured, and once it cures it makes the surface of the wood super hard and extremely resistant to water, I used it on some poplar and it was about as hard as hickory once cured.
Interesting, what brand of tung oil did you use?
hmmm...So tung oil to make kitchen cutting blocks or counter? Which Brand did you get?
yes i got minwax (or similar name brand) tung oil and it smells like nasty chemicals. i assumed they added something so it's thinner to penetrate better. i also have a small bottle of natural tung oil that's multiple times thicker, smells friendlier, and lubricates well when i set handles on tools
A lot of products marketed as tung oil are actually just thinned down poly. Actual tung oil should say "100% tung oil"
Tung oil is great. It actually cures an hardens unlike most oil finishes which constantly evaporate and don't ever actually harden.
I feel like you are very knowledgeable about all of this and you have condensed a lot of information in this short video. For me, a little slower paced, a beginner's version will be better suited.
really like steve; he does not mumble, does not talk down to you, and is a decent bloke. he is also very knowledgeable; he is very credible, and has no ego.
You may want to bring up oil rag safety. They have been known to spontaneously combust. So I either dry them open/flat outside or stick them in a jar of water.
15 days ago, my house burned down because of this stupidity
With a lid on it.
I burn them right after using them. They can't catch fire if they're already burned.
This was a fantastic and well done video. Never seen the channel but just subscribed. I really like the pace. It wasn't a short video but it went quickly and covered a lot. Now to do the hard part and decide which to choose!
Another great video! Just starting in woodworking and this video definitely answered some questions. Thank you Steve!
This was a joy to watch even though I have no business knowing this stuff. Just really engaging and informative to a person who doesn't even do woodworking at all! (although I just made a small project and was curious) Well done!!
Finally a reasonable description of all finishing options. Thank you.
I like the color and grain after an application of linseed oil, but I want the protection of poly. What are the downsides (if any) to applying a wipe-on poly over an application of linseed oil?
What about mineral oil, wax, shellac, epoxy, teak oil, finishing oil, walnutoil, hardening oils vs. removable?
Seems like I re-watch this video every single time I have to apply another finish.
You should take notes. :) It's what I usually do when there's a lot to take in and to refer back to.
Same here..
Haha.. better safe than sorry right?!
Same here, or anytime i reach the finish phase of any wood project lol
Same here....😊
Best wood working youtube channel I came across, thank you, Steve.
This guy is the only one I have seen that does not confuse me. Great info. Thanks
Grab yourself a good quality brush and prepare to...microjig! Lol
Personal experience: I've always struggled with finishing wood and paint in general. In addition, maintining bristle brushes has always been a huge challenge for me. I simply can't seem to do it right and always make a mess. I've found that wipe on danish oil is without question the easiest and simplest finish I've ever tried. I know Steve prefers spray laquer, but I always make a mess with spray cans, and I'm too impatient to wait for the coats to dry. Danish oil applied with a rag or foam brush feels like it gets done by itself.
Use a timer relative to the humidity and temperature of your work space. Take your time opening the cans and watch the direction the liquid wants to go so you don’t spill it all over the place like a child
The cure for cancer and all other diseases is simply drinking a glass of (Micro Jig, the maker of the Gripper)
If that does not work, you can always smoke two packs a day.
Nah eating uranium is the best but it's better with hot sauce
@@hidgik I smoke two joints before I smoke two joints. And then I smoke two more
@@vasili1207 Plutonium is better-repels all germs
Hahahah. Perfect.
After you sand the first layer of Poly what is on your rag that you wipe it off with before adding the next coat? Is that mineral spirits as well?
@Hello Greenpea how are you doing
My biggest weakness has been finishing. So much info out there it gets very confusing. This has cleared a lot up for me and back to lacquer l go. Thank you.
Your ad spots are great.
MICRO JIG!
I must say, out of every Steve Ramsay videoi have watched, i always chuckle a bit whenever he drops the micro Jig ad, i actually think its the only add i actually like haha
There are several ideas to think about before you begin a woodworking company
Will you have help from your family?
Are you someone who is self-motivated?
Will you carry out the plan?
Do you have the funds to begin?
(I discovered these and why they work on Enata Wood System site )
Your chest spots are greater 😬
I love the Micro Jig bits so much, always funny stuff!
“Bill Nye the Painter guy”!
Gamaliel Garcia I couldn't put my finger on who he reminded me of, but that's it! Thanks, that was killing me.
bill dye
Dante Alighieri dude calm down. Bill Nye has a doctorate in engineering. He’s a highly educated guy. Just because he believes in global warming and you don’t doesn’t mean he’s an activist 😂
Bill Bill Bill Bill
Bill Nye has got nothing on Steve Ramsey though. Steve is the man!
I been woodworking for a long time. It’s all good, but when it comes to poly... yeah that’s a nope. Sometimes I get lucky and it comes out good. Mostly it’s always streaky. Today I was applying poly to a 1920’s vanity and boom 🤌🏼💥Thanks to this wonderful video, it ended up looking perfect no streaks. I’m very happy. Thank you!!!
1 million thanks man for this informative video I really need this for my home project this 16 minutes video save my life now I feel like I learned 6 months free classes from you only in 16 minutes wowwww you're amazing man "God bless you"
Today I learn a lot once again thank you so much 👍❤✨💫😎
Steve Ramsey - The Master Of Pauses
Steve man I just found you...my goodness have I been missing out. Thank you Sir!
7:50 I tried that wipe on Poly. My parrot didn't appreciate it.
i've been in construction and painting my whole life. this guy knows his stuff!
Steve I have watched numerous amount of your videos, and as always this was another very informative video. I'm retired and enjoying the hobby of woodworking and as I said earlier get a vast amount of knowledge from your videos, keep up the GREAT WORK!!!!!
Mike Simpson, thanks for all your years in woodworking!
Very informative. Just in time before the opening of my restaurant. Thank you!
Finish? No I'm actually swedish...
Turd Ferguson Danish (Finish) may be closer ;-?
Lycklig klipparen 😁
About to do a project with natural Danish Oil this weekend! Thanks for the tips! Would love it if you checked out my builds and vids!
I want to be your cigarette
it would be a good joke if im high XD
@Steve Ramsey
Sorry, but what you said about the protection abilities is just not correct. If you coat dry wood with plastic (which is basically what poly or lacquer are), it is only protected as long as the coat is 100% without flaws. Since wood expands and contracts in the sun and the heat, over time any coating will get flaws. So let's say you have a bench with a coat of lacquer. As soon as there is one little flaw, the wood will suck up rain water (capillar power) and the coating now will prevent the moisture from getting out. So the wood has perfect conditions to rod.
If you use oil instead, there will enter some rain every time, but the wood will also dry out again. I strongly recommend doing or reading about long term comparisons on oil and plastic based finishes outside. You will see that the oil works great longterm whereas the lacquer will increase the decay of the wood drastically. In many cases a piece of wood without any finish will withstand the rain outside better than a piece of wood with a lacquer finish, since no moisture gets trapped within the plastic coating.
That of course does not count if you manage to keep your plastic coatings 100% intact. But that could mean renewing the paint every couple of months and that is very impractical. Just imagine dry wood as a sponge. If you put it in a plastic bag and there is a tiny hole in the bag, the rain will soak in and the sponge will never dry out again. If it sits just in the rain, it gets wet, but it will also dry pretty fast. So please reconsider your recommendation and have a look at some long term tests.
+Jan Jonas tl;dr
I think it depends on the application. Your example of a bench is similar to a deck (horizontal surface, out in the rain and the sun, with people and objects knocking up against it a lot). The industry agrees with you (use oil, not paint for good hardwood that cops a lot of wear and abuse outdoors). The downside is you need to maintain the oil, re-oiling every year if your bench/deck/whatever is exposed to strong sunlight. But, the up-side is that putting another coat of oil on is a quick and easy job, whereas re-coating damaged paint needs a whole lot of preparation work and some skill.
Steve's recommendation for "most durable finish" is opaque paint. Any paint that you can't see through will offer the best protection from the sun's UV rays, which is what damages wood the most and accelerates damage due to moisture. It's not unreasonable to get 6 - 8 years out of a good paint job in full sun. Clear paints (varnish/polyurethane etc) need re-coating a lot (every 1 - 2 years). Good quality outdoor paints and varnishes are designed to be flexible, so that they *don't* crack with expansion and contraction of the wood underneath.
I'm not disagreeing with what you say - only saying that there are tradeoffs (re-oiling every year, vs doing a bit more work a lot less often, if you're prepared to cover your beautiful timber with coloured paint).
Well no shit. He's implying that the finish maintains its integrity.
All you've said is that a half-assed oil finish is better than a half-assed poly finish.
comes down to expected maintenance if you have a wood deck you know it needs to be refinished every 2 years. i used a poly on my outside sink table and put on 6 coats and expect to sand it down a bit and add on 2 new layers every 4 years or so. rain and sun beats all with time.
thats why you really shouldn't use poly or lacqeur outdoors. Things like exterior 450 or outdoor oil from general finishes is meant to be outside and resist UV and rain. These will degrade much slower and are meant for the outdoors. Even on most poly cans and lacqeur cans it says "for indoor use only".
Just wanted to say thank you. I love making projects and your tips and guides are so appreciated.
Thanks!
Whats your recommendation for finishing a Walnut wood on a kitchen island that is used for dinning only. I want it to feel natural, yet rich. I was considering a Danish Stain, then Poly and then Wax for a satin finish.
@Hello Daniel how are you doing
I'm too new- the linked videos aren't there yet, so I can finally live my dream of imagining what youtubers look like pointing to empty space while they talk!
They are there. Click the "i" symbol in the upper right.
Steve Ramsey it depends on the platform the viewer is using. I could see them on mobile, but not on my TV. it's always best to also include them in the description and mention that.
Holy crap steve, that Casper ad seriously cracked me up !!!!
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice Finish Tips :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Hi Steve, as a newbie woodworker I enjoy your videos very much. I have a breadboard that I would like to finish with a 'food grade oil'. Can you tell me what that is?
Okay, I found my answer and updating in case anyone else needs an answer. What I found was Howard Butcher Block Conditioner 12oz size available in Oregon for $8
@Hello John how are you doing
You are awesome! I’ve always been interested in woodworking and I just recently bought a book to help me get started. I decided it’s time to finally explore the interests I’ve always carried with me without making excuses as to why I can’t. I stumbled across your channel and I’m about 5 videos in. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into helping beginners learn how to get started. Thank you! I subscribed immediately.
Just wanted to say I'm really proud of you for following your dreams! Hope your woodworking skills are coming along nicely.
@@charcoalanderson8010 thank you!