I appreciate that he showed much of the process without jump cuts then used speed for the repetitive parts. Also love that he got busy without a ton of jabber. Great video.
Absolutely STELLAR job! That's a showroom piece right there! Thanks for the lesson. You explained some of the mistakes I made on my first wood-finishing project. I'm looking forward to my second one now.
I’ve watched about a dozen videos trying to build up my confidence before I do my countertops. This is THE BEST video I’ve watched. I’m ready to go now. Thank you.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I've never thought about the wet and dry sandpaper. Adding the sponge excellent idea thanks for sharing bro, By for now Ken I look forward to hear from you.
Good video. I refinish for a living and miniwax has the best polyurethane for the money. Dries 2-3 times faster then varathane and others. The best advice for DIYers is speed and don’t go back over an area you’ve already done. You want to be spreading tons of the finish on top as you go and pulling it level. Airplane landing and taking off brush stroke for the last strokes on that area. Lastly like he does wipe up drips on edges I usually make two passes. Immediately after finishing a section and then lastly all the way around. Never try to brush or add more poly to an area that has been sitting for more than a few minutes. It will pull it back up and you won’t be able to recover until next coat. Get a good light source pointing towards you like a desk lamp. It helps to see reflection and all the imperfections. You’ll need it after that first coat.
@@arnoldbioursckii6639 Easy to slip on and off so I dont drag stain and crud in the house and hey they comfortable to work in all day. As you can tell by my shop and choice of clothing I am about function and comfort over style.
I’m impressed that the episode includes additional information that reflects viewers questions and input, the sign of a professional who cares about accuracy. Good job, dude!
I love the glass finish I seen this done on cars but never thought about doing it on furniture. I need to try it out thank you for such great advice I love your tips you give thanks 🙏
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I had some small pieces (wood vases) that had little nibs on them after applying Polyurethane. Lightly sanded with 1000 Grit.....Bingo, smooth as silk.
WOW Wet sand!! Great tip! I am polyurethaning a butcherblock top for the trailer, right now. None of the videos I've watched said to "wet sand". I just dry sanded the bottom. Just did the first top coat, I'm going to wet sand it, now!! Thanks! (Oil base, hope that doesn't matter.) Cheers!
A very well informed video. It was as if you were reading my mind, any questions that popped up you gave an answer for it. I’ve been looking for a poly that was self leveling. So glad I found your channel. And now I’m on the hunt to find that 1k grit sandpaper!
I wish I caught your video sooner...lol.. I just sanded and stained my Dining table! My stain is blotchy and look like crap, I did it for like two days and refuse to do it again... I just laid the first layer of polyurethane and should do a video of what not to do 😠!! But your video is a light at the end of the tunnel because i can fix it 😁.. Screw the stain job. I'm gonna count a glossy table as a win! Thanks B2B! 👍
Fantastic tip! I've always wet sanded my paint to get a smooth glass like finish but never my top coat. Not sure why I didn't think of that before but I'll try it now! And the tip for dipping the brush lightly in mineral spirits is a great one too!
Great channel 👍 appreciate the time you take to explain all the tips and tricks and your down to earth disposition. I'm a fan guys keep posting ill be watching 🇨🇦
I always enjoy your content and seeing how you transform different pieces of furniture, but I found this concise and particularly informative as well. I know this is an older video, but thought I’d let you know your content endures. Keep up the great work. This helped me as I’m applying finish to a coffee table I refurbished. Appreciate it!
*How's it going, Excellent idea using the Wet and Dry Sandpaper* *and A spray bottle.* I use the use 320, I usually will do 3 Coats or just put on one heavy coat, Then I'll do my standing, Then go over that with a Rattle can of Polly for my finish.
Thanks for explaining how to get that shiny finish, I am working with a polyurethane product and I am looking at a matte finish. I will try your 1,000 grit wet sand. Thanks for the INFO.
Hey nice video and you were bang ON with the issues that many of us face, I need your help and yes have gone through all the 200 comments below but it’s not discussed anywhere. So here I am refinishing my dinning table and I have already done 2 poly coats and yes followed your method of wet sanding and knocking of the bumps, I am using water based Varathane triple coat poly and I am no where close to glass like finish as of now, I also read in one of your comments that it’s not possible with water based poly. I would really appreciate if you can please help me as this is a very precious table for my family and I really want to bring it back to life.
Yeah I don’t like the triple thick poly at all! It’s so hard to work with. If you want it to look like the top you see here you need to strip it back down and use oil base. Water base is going to look like plastic when oil will look like glass. I wish I had a better answer for you since I know you have put so much work in already.
Excellent video. I am going to try that wet sanding technique. Minwax gets a lot of hate online but I have always had good luck with their stains and polyurethanes. As another comment said for the price nothing comes close. There are some very nice wiping varnishes but they are quadruple the price.
Thanks for this video! I have been restoring my Grandmother's 1916 Victrola, and I have had a tough time with the poly stage. Your instruction will really help me get the cabinet looking nice. Thanks!
It mostly serves to help the water to suspend the sanded-off particles, and prevent the sandpaper from clogging up. A final wipe with a wet cloth, to remove any traces of the detergent, is a good idea between coats.
Great video. Very informative. I used this technique and had fantastic results. I think I added to much Dawn. I would like to know how much soap to water he used in his spray bottle..
I was looking for tricks I could use on guitar clear coats. On a guitar it's common to sand and polish, and sometimes wax and / or oil after the last coat of poly. The reflections go from blurry to razor sharp like looking in a mirror. From where you stopped, I'd wet sand with 2000, then buff with Turtle Wax polishing compound on a foam pad on a drill, then hand wax and polish with Johnson paste wax, then rub down and polish with mineral oil. If you can prevent contaminants, you don't need to sand between coats. You just have to build up enough poly to not sand through it when you sand it level at the end. Just build up your coats, sand it flat, sand to 2000 or so, polish, wax, and oil.
About the same thing we do on cars to get a glass finish. 1000, 1500, 2000, courses buffing wheel and cutting compound then a wool buffing wheel and wax.
I have learned a lot from your video. I am actually doing the exact project right now. The end result on your dresser is absolutely stunning. I'm praying mine will as well.
That is ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL! Wish I had seen this video 2 weeks ago when trying to do the dresser we got our daughter that’s made just like this one before I took that task on. Mine does NOT look like that 🤣. Well, now I know how to fix it 🤣🤣🤣. Thanks for sharing!
The newer stuff is low VOC. Didn’t really notice a heavy smell. It has a smell but not potent like if you used an aerosol can. If using oil base I can only recommend to do so over 72 deg. Any cooler it really just becomes a headache.
You most definitely. Normally after the last coat it’s like glass but a buff would glass it out even more. I would wait a few days to a week to buff it just so you know it is fully harden.
Do you have a video where you break down what you are doing from 00:00 to 00:40 ? I have my own method how to do all that. But I'm curious of your exact process, reasoning and tools 👍
Many of my older build videos demonstrate how I strip and stain wood to achieve various looks. However, I don't have a single video dedicated to just that process, as there are numerous methods I use depending on the desired finish for each piece.
@ it’s a true fact,Dean,don’t do it on the straight wet but if it’s sticky I will damp (just wet enough to slide easily)wipe,let that dry, and then proceed. I do custom hardwood floors for a living, and this step allows me to dry sand polyurethane without coming back the next day.
I hate putting top coats on. I always screw it up! I have the buffet from heck! I am using PolyAcrylic. Now I have brush marks. Or to me they look more like scratches. But I was hardly pressing on 1500 sandpaper with water/soap like you said. I actually applied it with a stain pad . I am not redoing it again! But I don’t know what to do. Maybe my lighting is too good so I see all my flaws. 😂
The only way you could have scratch marks wet sanding with 1500 is if there was debris on the surface or the sandpaper. I always recommend applying with a brush. Put it on and let it settle. It has self leveling properties so the brush strokes disappear. Unless it’s to hot and drying while applying or you brush over it to much while it’s getting tacky. Applying to thin can also cause brush strokes due to the thin coat drying fast. Poly acrylic is great because it dries so fast but at the same time you have to work fast.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Living right next to a air port makes filming fun at times. Once a year they have a air show and practice all week. I can't film or do voice over that week with the jets doing Maneuvers directly above my house. 🤷♂️🤦♂️🤣
I once had a girlfriend that bought a 1979 black Oldsmobile Cutlass brand new from the dealer. In her driveway, I wet sanded that new factory paint job. It was acrylic paint, and at the time auto manufacturers did not do any clear topcoat, just the pigmented acryllic paint. Sanded with wet/dry paper all by hand. Reason is that it had fisheye, which is a term that means uneaven glob like paint. It just wasn't smooth under a microscope, or the naked eye looking real close...it was just bumpy paint. And because it was bumpy, it diminished the shininess of the finish...it lessened the otherwise mirror finish. Next step I buffed it with a Black and Decker 7 inch polisher, with a lambs wool pad with light grit polish. That gave it real shine, but because it was black you could still see some swirl marks, so the next step, I used what we called Liquid Ebony for black paint jobs that took away the swirl marks almost. Last and final step, I hand waxed the whole car to eliminate any evidence of swirll marks from the Liquid Ebony. Hand wax, and take off by hand. It looked like a $10,000 paint job. Definitely not a factory finsih any longer, and it was a mirror like finish you could see any color clothing in it's reflcetion, just like a mirror. The paint was a black mirror, and so many people complimented on that paint. You can't do that with clearcoat paintjobs today, and the clearcoat paint still has fisheye bumpiness under the clearcoat that you just can't reach. Sorry for so long a msg.
Yeah I have seen on the showroom floor $140k new Vets with orange peel. Would drive me crazy too. I would be the guy wet sanding his new car in the driveway to lol.
I have achieved a new car look with clearcoat that had been damaged by former owner using a dirty wash glove. The trick is to wet sand 600, 1200 and 3000 then use two levels of cutting liquid. An orbital buffer makes it quick work with the cutting liquid. You must be careful with the 600 and not sand any creases in the metal or you go down to the paint. I actually put painters tape over the edges and then blend the paint sanding job over the edge with the 1200 grit. You still must be very light or you can still cut down to paint. Try practicing on a hood or door you can pick up cheap from a salvage yard.
I've been trying to do my coffee table, first time I didn't sand in between coats. Then I used 220 on an orbital between coats and got swirl scratches. So the wet sanding, lightly in grain direction makes sense. Time to sand it all back down and try again.
220 is very aggressive - only necessary if you have a seriously rough surface, or a major defect to remove. You'll need to work your way up through higher grits if you're going to get out the scratches that it leaves behind. Use 500, then 1000, going with the grain on the 1000.
Impressive. So would adding more coats give a deeper glass look finish? I currently use spraymax 2k clear on my car and cycle repairs and more coats means deeper look. But furniture clears are not the same. Heard from friends about your vids. Just trying to find my backbone to fix my wife's dining room table I ruined with car batt acid. 🙄
I have only done 3 to 5 coats so not really sure. I would assume you would get to a point where it would look very amber color like it does in the can with enough coats.
Thank you for showing and explaining about the waiting times. Do you think this smooth top would be suitable for a computer desk, which will have monitor, mouse and keyboard?
I never know just how much poly to leave on the brush? I noticed you don't wipe off the brush? I am new to this but am very familiar with the wet sanding as my father was an auto body repair guy many many years ago, btw you do awesome work.
This Old House has a RUclips video on applying oil-based poly to wood. They say never use a foam brush for poly. It’s because foam brushes hold air bubbles. Use a China bristle brush instead. China bristle is a natural material made from hog hair. That’s what you need for oil-based poly. Also make sure the brush label says that you can use the brush for stains and polyurethanes.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
That is a tough one. I have never tried putting oil base or lacquer on top of a water base stain product. I have done water base poly on stop of oil base stain but never the other way around. I do know if you have to start sanding on top of stain it can get pretty bad fast. So unfortunately this time I don’t really have a good answer for you. Sorry 😕
@@DeanFurnitureArtist No probs, mate, thank you for the reply anyway. Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind. As the oil base poly over water base stain is concerned - it worked well, so it can be definitely done this way. I think as soon as the water is gone, the dry pigment in the wood doesn't create any nasty stuff (in fact, anything at all) in contact with oil base poly.
Instead of using the 1000 grit sandpaper, would wet sanding with a blue Scotch-Brite kitchen cleaning pad work? Some people say it is similar to 1000 grit sandpaper.
I only use it on furniture so by no means a expert on small stuff but I would say if it’s not a table top or dresser top that will see a lot of traffic then I would just use a can of spray lacquer or enamel.
Did you wet sand again after the final coat? And did you do any buffing? I’m putting down my final coat tonight and am just curious. Thanks for the rest of the tips though
I appreciate that he showed much of the process without jump cuts then used speed for the repetitive parts. Also love that he got busy without a ton of jabber. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed!
Absolutely STELLAR job! That's a showroom piece right there! Thanks for the lesson. You explained some of the mistakes I made on my first wood-finishing project. I'm looking forward to my second one now.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks!
I’ve watched about a dozen videos trying to build up my confidence before I do my countertops. This is THE BEST video I’ve watched. I’m ready to go now. Thank you.
You got this! Good luck!
How did your countertops turn out?
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I've never thought about the wet and dry sandpaper. Adding the sponge excellent idea thanks for sharing bro, By for now Ken
I look forward to hear from you.
I'm with you!
This is the same technique i was taught in high school woodshop in 1968! Worked well then and I am glad your video reminded me of this. Thank you.
Oh that’s awesome!!
I use very fine steelwool in-between coats third coat adds the final effect
I don’t like the dust from the steel wool. It also seems to leave hair scratches that can sometimes be seen in direct sunlight
Good video. I refinish for a living and miniwax has the best polyurethane for the money. Dries 2-3 times faster then varathane and others. The best advice for DIYers is speed and don’t go back over an area you’ve already done. You want to be spreading tons of the finish on top as you go and pulling it level. Airplane landing and taking off brush stroke for the last strokes on that area. Lastly like he does wipe up drips on edges I usually make two passes. Immediately after finishing a section and then lastly all the way around. Never try to brush or add more poly to an area that has been sitting for more than a few minutes. It will pull it back up and you won’t be able to recover until next coat. Get a good light source pointing towards you like a desk lamp. It helps to see reflection and all the imperfections. You’ll need it after that first coat.
All great info. Thanks!
Cool video, cool tattoos. Cool hair…But Crox…really
@@arnoldbioursckii6639 Easy to slip on and off so I dont drag stain and crud in the house and hey they comfortable to work in all day. As you can tell by my shop and choice of clothing I am about function and comfort over style.
I USE THE TERM AIRPLANE LANDING AND TAKE OFF I THOUGH I WAS THE ONLY ONE USING THE TERM.
This was really helpful. I started woodworking as a hobby last year and I'm always trying to find ways to broaden my horizons. Thank you!
I’m impressed that the episode includes additional information that reflects viewers questions and input, the sign of a professional who cares about accuracy. Good job, dude!
Thank you.
Awesome. You are a natural teacher, giving us the whys and whats along with the how. Thanks!
My pleasure!Thank you!
The best no BS instructional video ever!
So glad to hear that! Thanks
11:17 when you got that little dry patch the light was catching was so satisfying! 😅
The 1000 auto body sandpaper is great advice.
I have found since I’ve been wearing crocs while doing this the finish gets even better
Power of the Crocs. Wait till you see what happens when you put them in race mode!
Exactly what I needed to see before I tackle my project. You gave me confidence and for that, I thank you!
Glad I could help!
I love the glass finish I seen this done on cars but never thought about doing it on furniture. I need to try it out thank you for such great advice I love your tips you give thanks 🙏
i wasnt happy with my first try so i sanded it all off and im going to give your method a shot.wish me luck
I like the way you explained what you're doing in plain English. I'm gonna try your techniques on my project. Thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
I just love that end result! Impressed!
Bought the sandpaper and I’m gonna try wet sanding . Glad I saw this before I started ! Thanks for the instructions!
Have fun!
I've tried several techniques and yours helped me the most by far!
Thanks for sharing!
Oh that is so great to hear. Thank you for letting me know.
Thank you for this video! Very efficient explanation and beautiful finish!
You're very welcome!
I have seen a lot of videos on applying polyurethane. I have to say yours is the best. 👍
So great to hear! I may do another one now that I have the 4k camera.
You are a very good teacher I like watching your videos I have learned so much ...
I am so glad! ☺
Thanks dude. For anyone wondering this process works perfect for gun furniture. My AK turned out gorgeous. Bless your sould man.
Thank you!
Great job explaining each step, excellent finish!
Thank you kindly!
New subscriber right here! One of the best videos I've ever seen! Your the man fr! Thank you. I'm just starting re cycling furniture!
This is so great to hear!! Thank you!
Nice, short, and sweet and right to the point. Great job! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I had some small pieces (wood vases) that had little nibs on them after applying Polyurethane. Lightly sanded with 1000 Grit.....Bingo, smooth as silk.
WOW Wet sand!! Great tip! I am polyurethaning a butcherblock top for the trailer, right now. None of the videos I've watched said to "wet sand". I just dry sanded the bottom. Just did the first top coat, I'm going to wet sand it, now!! Thanks! (Oil base, hope that doesn't matter.)
Cheers!
Works on oil and water. This video was oil base 👍🏻
It’s 12:27am here in Maine and I am watching your videos m 😊
Thank you! ❤
just found your channel. TI just started flipping furniture and I will try this. Your work is beautiful.
Thank you! ☺
Im finally ready to finish the coffee table I redid! This video was a huge help❤️
I'm so glad! You got this!
Excellent video. Very well shown and explained! Thank you Brother!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!!
A very well informed video. It was as if you were reading my mind, any questions that popped up you gave an answer for it. I’ve been looking for a poly that was self leveling. So glad I found your channel. And now I’m on the hunt to find that 1k grit sandpaper!
Thank you. Worse case if you have to order some I put a amazon link in the description for 3M. Guess you could be out of country tho??
Mad props dude! Much respect from Claude, TX.
Out there on the pan handle. Hello fellow Texan!! Thank you!😊
New fan. Loved the Julia Child imitation in the beginning. Helpful information.
So great to hear!! thank you!
Awesome vid mate. Very easy to understand. Just finishing a project that im varnishing. So will use this method. Cheers
Glad it helped
I wish I caught your video sooner...lol.. I just sanded and stained my Dining table! My stain is blotchy and look like crap, I did it for like two days and refuse to do it again... I just laid the first layer of polyurethane and should do a video of what not to do 😠!! But your video is a light at the end of the tunnel because i can fix it 😁.. Screw the stain job. I'm gonna count a glossy table as a win! Thanks B2B! 👍
So glad it was helpful!
Nicely done! Doing a tap board for my daughter and this method is going to be applied.
Fantastic!
Fantastic tip! I've always wet sanded my paint to get a smooth glass like finish but never my top coat. Not sure why I didn't think of that before but I'll try it now! And the tip for dipping the brush lightly in mineral spirits is a great one too!
You are very welcome!
Florida here! Great video, will have to try this, we have high humidity too
Hello from Texas!
Great channel 👍 appreciate the time you take to explain all the tips and tricks and your down to earth disposition. I'm a fan guys keep posting ill be watching 🇨🇦
Thank you! Will do!!
Amazing finish. Just beautiful!
Thank you! ☺
I do the exact same but 600 grit paper, good stuff. Four coats looks even better though.
I always enjoy your content and seeing how you transform different pieces of furniture, but I found this concise and particularly informative as well. I know this is an older video, but thought I’d let you know your content endures. Keep up the great work. This helped me as I’m applying finish to a coffee table I refurbished. Appreciate it!
So great to hear. Thank you
The video I wish I saw before starting my project. Thanks for the info
Thanks!
*How's it going, Excellent idea using the Wet and Dry Sandpaper* *and A spray bottle.* I use the use 320,
I usually will do 3 Coats or just put on one heavy coat, Then I'll do my standing, Then go over that with a Rattle can of Polly for my finish.
Nice!
Wow thank you so much for this video. Best video out there.
So glad it was helpful!
After your last coat u can also take some car finish wax and a buffer and buff it out just like u would on a car and that will give u a mirror finish!
Yes sir!
Thanks for explaining how to get that shiny finish, I am working with a polyurethane product and I am looking at a matte finish. I will try your 1,000 grit wet sand. Thanks for the INFO.
Welcome
Good Information man !!! Make longer videos like these....thanks from All the Carpenters from India.. NAMASTE...
Thank you!
Hey nice video and you were bang ON with the issues that many of us face, I need your help and yes have gone through all the 200 comments below but it’s not discussed anywhere. So here I am refinishing my dinning table and I have already done 2 poly coats and yes followed your method of wet sanding and knocking of the bumps, I am using water based Varathane triple coat poly and I am no where close to glass like finish as of now, I also read in one of your comments that it’s not possible with water based poly. I would really appreciate if you can please help me as this is a very precious table for my family and I really want to bring it back to life.
Yeah I don’t like the triple thick poly at all! It’s so hard to work with. If you want it to look like the top you see here you need to strip it back down and use oil base. Water base is going to look like plastic when oil will look like glass. I wish I had a better answer for you since I know you have put so much work in already.
Woah, that's like a One Hit method, thanks for the information!
Welcome!
Wow! I love that finish!
Thank you! ☺
Excellent video. I am going to try that wet sanding technique. Minwax gets a lot of hate online but I have always had good luck with their stains and polyurethanes. As another comment said for the price nothing comes close. There are some very nice wiping varnishes but they are quadruple the price.
GREAT VID. GOING TO BE TRYING THIS REAL SOON. ANSWERED ALL MY QUESTIONS. FROM UP HERE IN THUNDER BAY CANADA KEEP UP WITH THE GREAT VIDS
Thanks! Good luck! You got this.
Now we all will be able to obtain that beauty. Thank you so much for your help.
Glad to help.
Thanks for this video! I have been restoring my Grandmother's 1916 Victrola, and I have had a tough time with the poly stage. Your instruction will really help me get the cabinet looking nice. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice finish! Good job! I'll be applying these methods to a desk that I built. Thanks!
Welcome!
The Dawn soap and water is a great tip to give the mild abrasive some glide, gunna try that! Thank you! 🔨
Welcome and thanks for watching.
It mostly serves to help the water to suspend the sanded-off particles, and prevent the sandpaper from clogging up. A final wipe with a wet cloth, to remove any traces of the detergent, is a good idea between coats.
Great video. Very informative. I used this technique and had fantastic results. I think I added to much Dawn. I would like to know how much soap to water he used in his spray bottle..
I add maybe a dawn dish soap cap worth. A very small amount. Thanks for the feedback back! So glad it was a helpful video.
Excellent, clear instruction, thanks! About to go put on the finish on a dining room table I am refinishing. Very similar color theme as your piece.
Awesome! Good luck!
One word...Excellent! Thank you! Will sub for more amazing tips. I'm a newbie and having so much fun refinishing.
So great to here! Thanks
Never wet sanded polyurethane. Will give it a try. At the very least it doesn't create more dust. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I'm gonna try that wet sand paper tip and see how it goes. Salutations from Baja Mexico amigo!
Hello from Texas 👋
Looks good bro! Never tried the soapy water gonna give a try on. NExt project
Thank you. Well done. A good video to bookmark for future reference. Take care. Mary
Thanks!
I just ordered a pack of 1000 grit through your link. thanks for the tutorial.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
I was looking for tricks I could use on guitar clear coats. On a guitar it's common to sand and polish, and sometimes wax and / or oil after the last coat of poly. The reflections go from blurry to razor sharp like looking in a mirror. From where you stopped, I'd wet sand with 2000, then buff with Turtle Wax polishing compound on a foam pad on a drill, then hand wax and polish with Johnson paste wax, then rub down and polish with mineral oil. If you can prevent contaminants, you don't need to sand between coats. You just have to build up enough poly to not sand through it when you sand it level at the end. Just build up your coats, sand it flat, sand to 2000 or so, polish, wax, and oil.
About the same thing we do on cars to get a glass finish. 1000, 1500, 2000, courses buffing wheel and cutting compound then a wool buffing wheel and wax.
I have learned a lot from your video. I am actually doing the exact project right now. The end result on your dresser is absolutely stunning. I'm praying mine will as well.
Glad it was helpful! You got this!!
That is ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL! Wish I had seen this video 2 weeks ago when trying to do the dresser we got our daughter that’s made just like this one before I took that task on. Mine does NOT look like that 🤣. Well, now I know how to fix it 🤣🤣🤣. Thanks for sharing!
So glad it is helpful. Just a reason to save more pieces and try again.
What a spontaneously funny intro 😆 🤣!
great. video. good thing no mess on the carpet.
🤞😆
Great instructional video. Good tips . Thanks and all the best
Glad it was helpful!
What do you recommend for cooler temperatures? Do you have concerns about ventilation when you use poly in the house? Is is very stinky?
The newer stuff is low VOC. Didn’t really notice a heavy smell. It has a smell but not potent like if you used an aerosol can.
If using oil base I can only recommend to do so over 72 deg.
Any cooler it really just becomes a headache.
Thanks for your relpy.@@DeanFurnitureArtist
Great information. Thanks. Would you consider buffing the top as a final step? Thanks.
You most definitely. Normally after the last coat it’s like glass but a buff would glass it out even more. I would wait a few days to a week to buff it just so you know it is fully harden.
Thanks for replying & clarifying.
Do you have a video where you break down what you are doing from 00:00 to 00:40 ? I have my own method how to do all that. But I'm curious of your exact process, reasoning and tools 👍
Many of my older build videos demonstrate how I strip and stain wood to achieve various looks. However, I don't have a single video dedicated to just that process, as there are numerous methods I use depending on the desired finish for each piece.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist Can you reply with a link or video title name that has the method of yours your prefer most? Would be much appreciated :)
This was a great tutorial! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
The water spray technique actually kind of speed cures polyurethane been doing it for years on slow drying coats.
I never thought of that but it makes sense!
@ it’s a true fact,Dean,don’t do it on the straight wet but if it’s sticky I will damp (just wet enough to slide easily)wipe,let that dry, and then proceed. I do custom hardwood floors for a living, and this step allows me to dry sand polyurethane without coming back the next day.
Nice! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video. Really helped out a lot . 👍🏽
Glad it helped
It's probably an obvious question, but can you wet sand water and oil based polyurethane? This looks amazing!! Great video!
Thanks! Yes you can do both.
I hate putting top coats on. I always screw it up! I have the buffet from heck! I am using PolyAcrylic. Now I have brush marks. Or to me they look more like scratches. But I was hardly pressing on 1500 sandpaper with water/soap like you said. I actually applied it with a stain pad . I am not redoing it again! But I don’t know what to do. Maybe my lighting is too good so I see all my flaws. 😂
The only way you could have scratch marks wet sanding with 1500 is if there was debris on the surface or the sandpaper.
I always recommend applying with a brush. Put it on and let it settle. It has self leveling properties so the brush strokes disappear. Unless it’s to hot and drying while applying or you brush over it to much while it’s getting tacky. Applying to thin can also cause brush strokes due to the thin coat drying fast. Poly acrylic is great because it dries so fast but at the same time you have to work fast.
Great video can I use microfiber cloths instead of torn T-shirts?
You can just make sure it’s a good brand that doesn’t leave specs of cloth on your surface. The Walmart ones are not great at all. Lol
@8:02 I thought the helicopter was you doing a drumroll. Lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Living right next to a air port makes filming fun at times. Once a year they have a air show and practice all week. I can't film or do voice over that week with the jets doing Maneuvers directly above my house. 🤷♂️🤦♂️🤣
I once had a girlfriend that bought a 1979 black Oldsmobile Cutlass brand new from the dealer. In her driveway, I wet sanded that new factory paint job. It was acrylic paint, and at the time auto manufacturers did not do any clear topcoat, just the pigmented acryllic paint. Sanded with wet/dry paper all by hand. Reason is that it had fisheye, which is a term that means uneaven glob like paint. It just wasn't smooth under a microscope, or the naked eye looking real close...it was just bumpy paint. And because it was bumpy, it diminished the shininess of the finish...it lessened the otherwise mirror finish. Next step I buffed it with a Black and Decker 7 inch polisher, with a lambs wool pad with light grit polish. That gave it real shine, but because it was black you could still see some swirl marks, so the next step, I used what we called Liquid Ebony for black paint jobs that took away the swirl marks almost. Last and final step, I hand waxed the whole car to eliminate any evidence of swirll marks from the Liquid Ebony. Hand wax, and take off by hand. It looked like a $10,000 paint job. Definitely not a factory finsih any longer, and it was a mirror like finish you could see any color clothing in it's reflcetion, just like a mirror. The paint was a black mirror, and so many people complimented on that paint. You can't do that with clearcoat paintjobs today, and the clearcoat paint still has fisheye bumpiness under the clearcoat that you just can't reach. Sorry for so long a msg.
Yeah I have seen on the showroom floor $140k new Vets with orange peel. Would drive me crazy too. I would be the guy wet sanding his new car in the driveway to lol.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist You Two: Yet another reason to subscribe to your channel.
I have achieved a new car look with clearcoat that had been damaged by former owner using a dirty wash glove. The trick is to wet sand 600, 1200 and 3000 then use two levels of cutting liquid. An orbital buffer makes it quick work with the cutting liquid. You must be careful with the 600 and not sand any creases in the metal or you go down to the paint. I actually put painters tape over the edges and then blend the paint sanding job over the edge with the 1200 grit. You still must be very light or you can still cut down to paint. Try practicing on a hood or door you can pick up cheap from a salvage yard.
Very helpful, thanks for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
gorgeous finish!
Thank you
I've been trying to do my coffee table, first time I didn't sand in between coats. Then I used 220 on an orbital between coats and got swirl scratches. So the wet sanding, lightly in grain direction makes sense. Time to sand it all back down and try again.
Hope it goes smoother for you this time. See what I did there 😏
I've made the mistake of using an orbital between coats too, it's just way too aggressive. Hand sanding alone should give you much better results
220 is very aggressive - only necessary if you have a seriously rough surface, or a major defect to remove. You'll need to work your way up through higher grits if you're going to get out the scratches that it leaves behind. Use 500, then 1000, going with the grain on the 1000.
Great! Thanks for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Please link me to your great sound tracks man .. just love that soothing music. I am adopting your method of polyurethane application. Thank you 💗
Thanks. It's is just free tunes allowed by RUclips. 😁
Beautiful job!
Nice video 👍…Whats in spray bottle water or mineral spirits?
Water with a dap of dawn dish soap.
Thanks. Great Vid. Going to use your method very soon.
Glad it was helpful!
Impressive. So would adding more coats give a deeper glass look finish? I currently use spraymax 2k clear on my car and cycle repairs and more coats means deeper look. But furniture clears are not the same. Heard from friends about your vids. Just trying to find my backbone to fix my wife's dining room table I ruined with car batt acid. 🙄
I have only done 3 to 5 coats so not really sure. I would assume you would get to a point where it would look very amber color like it does in the can with enough coats.
Beautiful piece. Love it!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for showing and explaining about the waiting times. Do you think this smooth top would be suitable for a computer desk, which will have monitor, mouse and keyboard?
Yes once oil base poly hardens fully it very durable. I would give it a week to harden before use.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist Thanks for the reply. Ill do it tomorrow and come back in a week to let you know how it went
I never know just how much poly to leave on the brush? I noticed you don't wipe off the brush? I am new to this but am very familiar with the wet sanding as my father was an auto body repair guy many many years ago, btw you do awesome work.
I just get the poly on the top then spread it with the brush. Thank you! 😊
Is a bristle brush better than foam brush for poly?
I think that is more of a preference thing. I prefer bristle brushes.
This Old House has a RUclips video on applying oil-based poly to wood. They say never use a foam brush for poly. It’s because foam brushes hold air bubbles. Use a China bristle brush instead. China bristle is a natural material made from hog hair. That’s what you need for oil-based poly. Also make sure the brush label says that you can use the brush for stains and polyurethanes.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
That is a tough one. I have never tried putting oil base or lacquer on top of a water base stain product. I have done water base poly on stop of oil base stain but never the other way around. I do know if you have to start sanding on top of stain it can get pretty bad fast. So unfortunately this time I don’t really have a good answer for you. Sorry 😕
@@DeanFurnitureArtist No probs, mate, thank you for the reply anyway. Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind. As the oil base poly over water base stain is concerned - it worked well, so it can be definitely done this way. I think as soon as the water is gone, the dry pigment in the wood doesn't create any nasty stuff (in fact, anything at all) in contact with oil base poly.
Instead of using the 1000 grit sandpaper, would wet sanding with a blue Scotch-Brite kitchen cleaning pad work? Some people say it is similar to 1000 grit sandpaper.
That one I am not sure on since I have tried it.
I know it’s self leveling but what about smaller custom pieces? That have curves or crevices and are not a flat level surface?
I only use it on furniture so by no means a expert on small stuff but I would say if it’s not a table top or dresser top that will see a lot of traffic then I would just use a can of spray lacquer or enamel.
Did you wet sand again after the final coat? And did you do any buffing? I’m putting down my final coat tonight and am just curious. Thanks for the rest of the tips though
thank you, what about bees wax finish coat post a 1000 grit sandng.
Never tried it.