I will say that this is the most thorough explanation of videos I have found on this process. Your explanation is to a deeper degree than others. Really appreciate this video.
Most of the videos I've seen say something like, you get yer brush, and two of these cans here, spread it, and yer done, like and subscribe, thanks for watching.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 what tip of brush I'm restaning Birchwood cabinets solid wood lol it's about 40 year old wood but I took it down to ra wood but now I seen this video trying to figure out what tipe of brush to use the polyurethane I'm using is minwax oil modified polyurethane thank you have a blessed day or night
I want to thank you for your video clip, I live in Germany, it inspired me and gave me all the necessary information to be able to restore a solid wood table from the year 1870, my first project. The Minwax Warm Gloss product really worked, no I found it on Amzon Germany and ordered it on another online shopping site from a Supplier from Poland.
This is excellent. I'm the stain and finish guy for a small shop here in Idaho called Custom S Carpentry, and I just can't understand why more people don't request gloss coats. They look better, are more visually impactful, have less surface area to potentially oxidize, an are more durable than semis or satins. Average Joe Q. Taxpayer could look at a semi gloss table and not care, but that same table in a gloss would make him say "Holy shit! Lookit that!"
Thanks Sean! Gloss stands out for sure, I like the matte or satin look as well, but I think it depends on the piece. Gloss is probably my most requested finish for my larger dining tables
I've been making a bench for my daughter and she wants it super shiny. I was laying in bed wondering if I could do a wipe on poly on top of the brush on. Lo and behold you answered that very question without me even searching for it. Thank you very much. Now this old granny can finish the bench with a high shine my daughter is wanting.
This is beautiful. I've got to use your tips for my dining set. At first I was convinced that I needed epoxy but I see that some poly will do the job just fine.
@@benjaminlancaster-u7j yes-ish. The trick is to use it on a dark piece or even a yellowish piece like raw pine and the yellowing usually goes unnoticed. I definitely wouldn't use it on white painted wood floors. I've seen people be disappointed and go through the headache of refinishing as it will yellow unevenly in some spots as it reacts with the tannins in the wood, like a giant dog took a giant pee on the floor! Edit: also epoxy, lacquer and shellac can all have that same yellowing effect, some brands more than others on certain types of materials so be careful! Water based stuff won't yellow, but has it's drawbacks as well. Good luck!
good point some things i've stained dry fast, others can take a very long time to cure enough to safety apply a finish over the stain. the key as in everything, and i know it can be hard, is to be patient because rushing anything invites problems.
LOL, just sanded and stained a Martha Washington antique table in espresso while wearing a lemon yellow T-shirt myself! 😂😂. I didn't get any of it on my clothes either! Phew. Love the video. Thanks for doing this!
Great tips and looks fantastic man. Time spent on finishing is worth it to get a great looking end product. Like you said don’t miss any steps and a light sanding between finishes is the only way to go.
Great information my friend, I've been battling this project for a few weeks looking for that show car gloss look not being a familiar with polyurethane, but after your video...I have the confidence to buff the shit out of this project now....think I'm high from pouring the shit on and sitting here...lol...thanks for your knowledge!!!
I’m using the exact stain with a table made from construction lumber. Unfortunately my results look completely different…real blotchy and much darker. Gonna try sanding it off and then using pre-conditioner first before re-sanding.
You might try sanding it down further with a finer grit sandpaper. Also, some stains (such as espresso) look awful until they’re clear coated. After a few coats of poly, the finish looks 100x better
Excellent video, many thanks 👍🏼 I’m about to use a water based gloss clear poly on a guitar body, and hoping that 24 hours between application and sanding will be enough.
It is essential, but counter intuitive, to lightly sand (220 grit) between topcoats, using your hand. (No machine!) You are looking to produce a uniform haze by the sanding and, after two coats, you will see the magic. Go three or four coats, making certain that each coat dries completely, and you will have a masterwork!
@@ALightOn I believe they mean with the poly because you do NOT want to use a hand or palm sander on top coats because all you want to do is lightly sand off any bubbles or discrepancies. You dont want to dig into the wood because it will show in your top coat (I learned from experience lol).
I like the comment about stains being hard to work with. I am currently staining a table top with a carbon gray color and I think I’ve sanded and stained it 100x now. It’s so frustrating. If it wasn’t a garbage veneered oak, I’m sure it would be a little easier. Overall though, good video!!! Definitely helped me!
Im seeing other guys use a smaller grit and they are wet sanding it. One guy then buffed it using car polish from the auto store and a buffer. I appreciate your video. I feel you added good info to my project.
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻 I haven’t personally tried that, but would be curious on how it would stand up to water/soap/lysol/etc over time. It might work great 🤷🏻♂️
Instead of using a paintbrush, I used the head of a swiffer sweeper that is about 16" X 4" and doubled up a 16" X 16" micro fiber towel instead of the swiffer sweeper pads. For wider projects than mine I have seen microfiber towels up to 24" X 24", or you could get a much larger piece of cloth from a fabric store. Then build your own base to put it on. You can probably use any type of finish you like. I used an oil base top coat over a previously stained wood. I imagine you can do this with stain as well. However I didn't come up with the idea until after I had already done my staining. I poured my top coat directly onto my double layered microfiber towel on the swiffer head and onto another folded over microfiber towel. First I used the 2nd folded towel to apply my top coat to my rounded over edges, overlapping the flat side a little bit, then used the microfiber towel on the swiffer head to go over the flat side. I had almost enough top coat in my microfibre towel to cover a 10' X 11" shelf on both sides. I could tell I was running out of top coat when I got near the end of the 2nd side. I added more top coat to my microfibre and went over that side a second time. The 2 benefits that I could see to this method are 1st and most obvious is that there are no overlapping brush strokes, and 2nd, it is a lot faster because you're only making one pass. I was able to ring out most of the top coat from the towels back into the can, leaving very little waste.
This is a very useful video, I wish I would've saw this before I stained my butcher block table, it doesn't look that great to me, and there's no going back.
Nice build. Pine is notorious for blotching when stained. If you what to avoid this and have a more uniform finish use a Gel stain (color varnish) or a pre-stain conditioner( a very thin varnish) or a thin coat of shellac.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288, I was basically thinking the same thing. Stains seem to flow better when the pre conditioner is added to the process. Sealing it in too is a good idea so it doesn't re flow. I like what you did though.
The only thing I would say is, don’t over look sand an sealer. It will make the finish even better. It will give a super smooth surface before you at your polyurethane. Once applied it will raise the grain just enough for a light sanding and seal small gaps or cracks witch cause bubbles in the finish do to trapped air. Each his own but I highly recommend using it.
I would even thin the poly with some Mineral Spirits, or Penetrol which helps it stay wet longer and reduces brush streaks. I've done loads of projects with wipe on poly, it's my preferred method because you never get runs and it's smooth as glass but it takes way longer.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 What kind of brush did you use? I recently finished up a desktop for my home studio and used Varathanes water based semi gloss. And a bristle rush... I can still see slight bristle marks...
Great video! I have been hunting for a good how to on how to get this exact finish. So thorough but not annoying or too long. THANK YOU!! Ps. I get paint and stain on EVERY shirt lol
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
This is great explanation, I need to do this for our table top. How is the table top been holding up after a couple of years? Has it gotten sticky at all? If it hasn’t, I really need to do this with ours. Thank you for the great video!
Thanks! I’m no longer in possession of this table, so I can’t know for sure. I’ve used poly on several table tops and never received and issues, nor had any with any personal polyurethane surfaces I have at my home 👍🏻
I used the water based poly of the same brand and it's nowhere as glossy as this? Do you think i can put the final coat of wipe on poly on the 3 water based coats. Great work. Thanks!!
Great videos i watched the video where you used the homeright sprayer...could someone use the sprayer for the stain and clearcoat of a project?? If so what tips or tricks do you have
I’m not sure about spraying the stain but poly can be and is often sprayed. I’ve never done it personally so I can’t offer much input but ive seen several videos where they spray it 👍🏻
Great video i hope you can help me. I recently painted my table, and after i used a clear stainer in a tin with a brush. But its left brush marks and looks terrible. Not sure if i should apply more coats but its set now, How do i fix this. Your advice would be appreciated
I’d try gently sanding down into the clear coat with 400 (or similar grit) to remove the brush strokes, then apply multiple coats on top, sanding in between each
Great vid and thanks for the thorough explanation. One question tho, many youtube vids have said to make sure to wipe the wood stain off after applying it. Did you apply the expresso stain and leave it to dry without wiping it off? Also could you pls share the brand of the stain you've used?
Thanks! You can do either - if you put too much stain on, it’s fine to wipe off. I try to wipe of any excess when I’m actually staining it before letting it dry. Try to wait as long as possible for the stain to dry. I used Minwax stain in this video 👍🏻
Loved your video! But i have a question....i noticed your table top has the wood border going in a different direction on the ends. How do you apply the stain, in all one direction or do you follow the different grain direction on the ends?? If you're following the the grain, how do you apply the stain in different directions where they meet and still have it smooth? This is a big concern for a couple of pieces i have. Thanks!!
Thanks! You want to alternate directions when you get to the breadboard. Here's another video I did that shows and explains the process a little better. ruclips.net/video/MY5vf1athMA/видео.html
I wait 24hrs between poly coats. I sand the wood to usually only 150, then stain, wait until it’s dry and then poly. Sand each poly coat with 400 before moving to the next coat.
Hi! This is a great video! Thank you! Do you use mineral spirits to clean the table after sanding between coats of poly? Also do you do anything to the tabletop after the final wipe-on coat?
Thanks Kathee! Yes, mineral spirits will help remove all the dust, just make sure to let the surface completely dry before the next coat. For your second question, no, just let it dry and it’s ready to go at that point 👍🏻
Nice work Matt. I wonder the clear coat you used is heat resistant? I tried to use clear coat from home depot but when I put something hot on my dinner table it gives me a white marks. Any clear coat brand that you recommend that can be heat resistant?
Hey, I’m not sure about heat resistance honestly. The best advice I could offer is to just use a hot pad/board underneath the surface when sitting a hot pan on it. Not great advice, but can’t speak on that with certainty.
, hey I am doing a table in black flat stain and need to know what I can seal it with to keep the flat black look. You know how kids are when they're eaten cereal and spill their milk on top of the table, I want to make sure I can clean it up without staining
If you can find matte polyurethane that would be my recommendation. Satin would work well too, but there is a bit more sheen with a satin finish than matte
great explanation and step by step. Did you also poly the bottom? im reading a lot of contradictory information here and there. Seems finishing (shellac or poly) equal coats on all sides came about in the 1970s while the prior decades and centuries only the top and sides were finished. Hope to hear you thoughts. :)
Hi this is an excellent job. What kind of stain did you use ? Was it oil base ? What kind of wood were you working on ? What other kind of wood I can apply this ? Can I apply it on plywood ?
Thanks! It’s Minwax espresso, oil based (there’s a link to the product in the description). This top was southern yellow pine. You can apply it to any type of wood, and yes you can apply it to plywood
Holy shit. You got a mirror finish without buffing. I’m impressed! I gotta try this now
Gloss poly is good stuff!
I will say that this is the most thorough explanation of videos I have found on this process. Your explanation is to a deeper degree than others. Really appreciate this video.
Thanks for the feedback Jason! Glad you found it helpful!
Most of the videos I've seen say something like, you get yer brush, and two of these cans here, spread it, and yer done, like and subscribe, thanks for watching.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 what tip of brush I'm restaning Birchwood cabinets solid wood lol it's about 40 year old wood but I took it down to ra wood but now I seen this video trying to figure out what tipe of brush to use the polyurethane I'm using is minwax oil modified polyurethane thank you have a blessed day or night
This is exactly what I was looking for thanks
I want to thank you for your video clip, I live in Germany, it inspired me and gave me all the necessary information to be able to restore a solid wood table from the year 1870, my first project. The Minwax Warm Gloss product really worked, no I found it on Amzon Germany and ordered it on another online shopping site from a Supplier from Poland.
You’re welcome and thanks for watching! That sounds like an awesome restoration!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288I wonder if I could send you some pictures of the table and chairs? say your opinion?
I am a very new beginner and the first time I sanded I was like...nooo what did I do, but then that next layer....wow! Beautiful table top.
😆 my reaction was similar the first time I ever sanded polyurethane
Beautiful finish, I preferred the matte look on mine after staining w/ Expresso.
Thanks! Matte finishes can look great for sure!
Wow man this is ll I wanted to see.. short video where u went through detailed explanation and not selling or bull shitting at all. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback! 👍🏻👍🏻
This is excellent. I'm the stain and finish guy for a small shop here in Idaho called Custom S Carpentry, and I just can't understand why more people don't request gloss coats. They look better, are more visually impactful, have less surface area to potentially oxidize, an are more durable than semis or satins. Average Joe Q. Taxpayer could look at a semi gloss table and not care, but that same table in a gloss would make him say "Holy shit! Lookit that!"
Thanks Sean! Gloss stands out for sure, I like the matte or satin look as well, but I think it depends on the piece. Gloss is probably my most requested finish for my larger dining tables
Dust. You shouldn't use high gloss like you shouldn't use glass for tabletops... you will see every spec of dust on them.
I've been making a bench for my daughter and she wants it super shiny. I was laying in bed wondering if I could do a wipe on poly on top of the brush on. Lo and behold you answered that very question without me even searching for it. Thank you very much. Now this old granny can finish the bench with a high shine my daughter is wanting.
Nice! Thanks for the feedback and yes, I’ve had great results with the wipe on poly!
You must be very pleased with the outcome of the wood+stain+poly combination. Looks wonderful!
Thanks! Yep, very happy with the outcome of this table 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 maybe I should just go ahead and give you my shipping address…ha!
Yes you are a professional you make everything perfect congratulations i wish you the best God bless you
Thanks Tomas!
Thanks., I like how you explain, step by step, and the waiting time for next layer
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful! Thankyou for explaining the sanding part at end, was struggling to understand tin instructions ❤
Thanks for watching and your feedback!
I just did my bar top and this video was a huge help!! Thank you!!
Nice! Glad it was helpful!
This is beautiful. I've got to use your tips for my dining set. At first I was convinced that I needed epoxy but I see that some poly will do the job just fine.
Thanks for the feedback! Poly has worked excellent in my experience 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 You're most welcome! You're great and thank you for the video. 😊
@@ieshiaaawon't poly yellow with time?
@@benjaminlancaster-u7j yes-ish. The trick is to use it on a dark piece or even a yellowish piece like raw pine and the yellowing usually goes unnoticed. I definitely wouldn't use it on white painted wood floors. I've seen people be disappointed and go through the headache of refinishing as it will yellow unevenly in some spots as it reacts with the tannins in the wood, like a giant dog took a giant pee on the floor!
Edit: also epoxy, lacquer and shellac can all have that same yellowing effect, some brands more than others on certain types of materials so be careful! Water based stuff won't yellow, but has it's drawbacks as well. Good luck!
good point some things i've stained dry fast, others can take a very long time to cure enough to safety apply a finish over the stain. the key as in everything, and i know it can be hard, is to be patient because rushing anything invites problems.
You’re spot on 👍🏻 In my experience the longer you can let it dry the better!
But remember, every thing in RUclips looks Amazing.
👍🏻👍🏻
LOL, just sanded and stained a Martha Washington antique table in espresso while wearing a lemon yellow T-shirt myself! 😂😂. I didn't get any of it on my clothes either! Phew. Love the video. Thanks for doing this!
😆 nice save! It’s always a good day when the shirt survives!
Great tips and looks fantastic man. Time spent on finishing is worth it to get a great looking end product. Like you said don’t miss any steps and a light sanding between finishes is the only way to go.
Thanks man! Sanding in between coats has helped me sooooo much to get a better finish!
Great information my friend, I've been battling this project for a few weeks looking for that show car gloss look not being a familiar with polyurethane, but after your video...I have the confidence to buff the shit out of this project now....think I'm high from pouring the shit on and sitting here...lol...thanks for your knowledge!!!
You’re welcome, glad it was helpful! Get some fresh air! 😆
Looks nice and very good glossy finish. If I can get that result on my barn style pine door I will be happy.
Thanks! That finish would look awesome on a door 👍🏻
Oh wise one, thank you for teaching me your ways! I appreciate you!
Thanks Nicholle, glad it was helpful!
Great video and explainer, it's appreciated.
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful 👍🏻
Beautiful job bro, looks amazing, and an awesome tutorial as well, thnx
Thank you!
Thank you. Great job explaining the process. Beautiful table too.
Thanks Bob!
I’m using the exact stain with a table made from construction lumber. Unfortunately my results look completely different…real blotchy and much darker. Gonna try sanding it off and then using pre-conditioner first before re-sanding.
You might try sanding it down further with a finer grit sandpaper. Also, some stains (such as espresso) look awful until they’re clear coated. After a few coats of poly, the finish looks 100x better
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thanks! Yeah, I re-sanded it with 220 and used a wood conditioner. Looks wayyyy better. Gonna poly it today.
thanks for showing the steps and the materials used...
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, many thanks 👍🏼 I’m about to use a water based gloss clear poly on a guitar body, and hoping that 24 hours between application and sanding will be enough.
Thanks! 24ish hours usually works well for me. If you notice the poly start to 'gum up' a bit, it will definitely need to sit longer.
Sir you got a new subscriber well explained and all the info i needed
Thanks Jamie!
It is essential, but counter intuitive, to lightly sand (220 grit) between topcoats, using your hand. (No machine!) You are looking to produce a uniform haze by the sanding and, after two coats, you will see the magic. Go three or four coats, making certain that each coat dries completely, and you will have a masterwork!
Thanks for the input, i agree 👍🏻
Are you talking about between the coats of stain or poly? (Sorry new to this).
@@ALightOn I believe they mean with the poly because you do NOT want to use a hand or palm sander on top coats because all you want to do is lightly sand off any bubbles or discrepancies. You dont want to dig into the wood because it will show in your top coat (I learned from experience lol).
I always use a pre stainer on the raw wood to allow the stain to go on more evenly and preclude substantial variation in color
Nice! Thanks for the tips and input!
Beautiful thanks for the tips. I’ve heard use wipe on for last coat but I’m a beginner. I’ll try it on my next project.
Thanks Josh!
Thank you so much for the video!!! Now, to my table off I go!!!
You’re welcome, good luck with your table!
I was looking for the name of this stain, thanks a bunch!
Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing your process, looks great.
Thanks for watching!
Super great result!
Thanks! 👍🏻
I like the comment about stains being hard to work with. I am currently staining a table top with a carbon gray color and I think I’ve sanded and stained it 100x now. It’s so frustrating. If it wasn’t a garbage veneered oak, I’m sure it would be a little easier. Overall though, good video!!! Definitely helped me!
Thanks for your feedback, working with veneer can certainly be tough!
Awesome!! I always wondered how your finish looks so great, great tips ill be trying. Thanks
Thanks Jim! Give it a go and good luck!
Great video 👍. Very concise and easy to understand. Thanks. Just subbed 👍
Thanks Jack! 👍🏻
very very well explained. Thanks alot!
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback! 🙏🏻
Im seeing other guys use a smaller grit and they are wet sanding it. One guy then buffed it using car polish from the auto store and a buffer. I appreciate your video. I feel you added good info to my project.
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻 I haven’t personally tried that, but would be curious on how it would stand up to water/soap/lysol/etc over time. It might work great 🤷🏻♂️
Instead of using a paintbrush, I used the head of a swiffer sweeper that is about 16" X 4" and doubled up a 16" X 16" micro fiber towel instead of the swiffer sweeper pads. For wider projects than mine I have seen microfiber towels up to 24" X 24", or you could get a much larger piece of cloth from a fabric store. Then build your own base to put it on. You can probably use any type of finish you like. I used an oil base top coat over a previously stained wood. I imagine you can do this with stain as well. However I didn't come up with the idea until after I had already done my staining. I poured my top coat directly onto my double layered microfiber towel on the swiffer head and onto another folded over microfiber towel. First I used the 2nd folded towel to apply my top coat to my rounded over edges, overlapping the flat side a little bit, then used the microfiber towel on the swiffer head to go over the flat side. I had almost enough top coat in my microfibre towel to cover a 10' X 11" shelf on both sides. I could tell I was running out of top coat when I got near the end of the 2nd side. I added more top coat to my microfibre and went over that side a second time. The 2 benefits that I could see to this method are 1st and most obvious is that there are no overlapping brush strokes, and 2nd, it is a lot faster because you're only making one pass. I was able to ring out most of the top coat from the towels back into the can, leaving very little waste.
Very cool idea, thanks for sharing 👍🏻 a wider brush will often yield better results, I haven’t tried anything like that though
I love this ! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful work!
Thank you!
This is a very useful video, I wish I would've saw this before I stained my butcher block table, it doesn't look that great to me, and there's no going back.
Thanks for watching! It’s never too late to sand it back down to bare wood and redo, I’ve been there several times before!
I raise my Johnny Black to you sir... bravo!
Thanks Jake! 🥃
I understand how to use poly slot better now you've help me spot thanks your friend Phillip white Dublin ga.
Thanks for the feedback, glad it was helpful!
That is so beautiful ❤️ Honestly
Thank you!
This looks great thank you very much for the tips.
Thanks James! Glad everything was helpful!
That is beautiful.
Thanks Deborah!
Nice build. Pine is notorious for blotching when stained. If you what to avoid this and have a more uniform finish use a Gel stain (color varnish) or a pre-stain conditioner( a very thin varnish) or a thin coat of shellac.
Thanks David! Great input!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288, I was basically thinking the same thing. Stains seem to flow better when the pre conditioner is added to the process. Sealing it in too is a good idea so it doesn't re flow. I like what you did though.
Just what I needed! THANK YOU! Be Blessed!
Thank you for sharing great tips.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Awesome work!!!!!🤙🏼💪🏼😎
Thanks Tony!
The only thing I would say is, don’t over look sand an sealer. It will make the finish even better. It will give a super smooth surface before you at your polyurethane. Once applied it will raise the grain just enough for a light sanding and seal small gaps or cracks witch cause bubbles in the finish do to trapped air. Each his own but I highly recommend using it.
Cool, thanks for the tips, I’ll look into it 👍🏻
I would even thin the poly with some Mineral Spirits, or Penetrol which helps it stay wet longer and reduces brush streaks. I've done loads of projects with wipe on poly, it's my preferred method because you never get runs and it's smooth as glass but it takes way longer.
Beautiful!
Thank you!
That is beautiful
Thanks James!
Awesome job
Thanks Jae!
I will use sealer before stain so I can play with it and leave it darker or lighter is more easier
Thanks for the input! 👍🏻
Greetings from Pakistan. Best video ... superb.
Thanks Zeub!
Love this! I want to build one now.
Thanks Forrest! Follow along in the previous videos for the entire build process. Give it a go!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 will do!
That looks awesome! I was sure you used the spray gun on that finish! Well done brother!
Thanks man! 👍🏻🙏🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 What kind of brush did you use? I recently finished up a desktop for my home studio and used Varathanes water based semi gloss. And a bristle rush... I can still see slight bristle marks...
@Joey.Darkwoods-Studio I’ve switched to using foam brushes now, I try to get the widest ones I can find (usually 4”)
Looks awesome, nice work.
Thanks buddy! 👍🏻🤜🏻
Great video! I have been hunting for a good how to on how to get this exact finish. So thorough but not annoying or too long. THANK YOU!! Ps. I get paint and stain on EVERY shirt lol
Thanks for the feedback! Glad I’m not the only one that ruins shirts 😆
Hi!
Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer.
The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer.
But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
Excellent!!! Thank you.....
Thanks for watching!
This is great explanation, I need to do this for our table top. How is the table top been holding up after a couple of years? Has it gotten sticky at all? If it hasn’t, I really need to do this with ours. Thank you for the great video!
Thanks! I’m no longer in possession of this table, so I can’t know for sure. I’ve used poly on several table tops and never received and issues, nor had any with any personal polyurethane surfaces I have at my home 👍🏻
Awesome video
Thanks Bradley!
Came on RUclips to learn about polyurethaning cookies and now I’m 5 minutes into this video lol..
The algorithm is working perfectly then! 😆 thanks for watching!
Wow great tips
Thanks! 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing this video. Would the poly stain be a good solution if I wanted to restain a tabletop for a restaurant that gets wiped down a lot?
Sure, I can’t imagine that it would hurt anything. Make sure the surface is completely clean prior to applying any poly 👍🏻
I used the water based poly of the same brand and it's nowhere as glossy as this? Do you think i can put the final coat of wipe on poly on the 3 water based coats. Great work. Thanks!!
Yes, you should be able to as long as the previous coats are completely cured 👍🏻
what kind of rag do you use for the wipe on poly?
I use cheesecloth but any rag that doesn’t shed will work fine. Cotton t shirt cut offs work well also
Great videos i watched the video where you used the homeright sprayer...could someone use the sprayer for the stain and clearcoat of a project?? If so what tips or tricks do you have
I’m not sure about spraying the stain but poly can be and is often sprayed. I’ve never done it personally so I can’t offer much input but ive seen several videos where they spray it 👍🏻
Good job explaining the process, Can you buff after the wipe on poly coat?
I don’t see why not, I haven’t found that to be necessary but I don’t see why it would hurt anything
Great video i hope you can help me. I recently painted my table, and after i used a clear stainer in a tin with a brush. But its left brush marks and looks terrible.
Not sure if i should apply more coats but its set now, How do i fix this. Your advice would be appreciated
I’d try gently sanding down into the clear coat with 400 (or similar grit) to remove the brush strokes, then apply multiple coats on top, sanding in between each
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thank you I will try that many thanks again
very useful. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great job
Thanks Chris!
It worked very well for me. I wanted to attach the video I took but couldn't figure out how.
Nice, glad it worked out! Not sure on the video attachment part either!
Great vid and thanks for the thorough explanation. One question tho, many youtube vids have said to make sure to wipe the wood stain off after applying it. Did you apply the expresso stain and leave it to dry without wiping it off?
Also could you pls share the brand of the stain you've used?
Thanks! You can do either - if you put too much stain on, it’s fine to wipe off. I try to wipe of any excess when I’m actually staining it before letting it dry. Try to wait as long as possible for the stain to dry. I used Minwax stain in this video 👍🏻
really nice! Curious as to how end grain on the aprons came out…I find end grain on pine very difficult to finish out nicely….
Thanks! End grain always takes a lot of extra sanding to finish nicely 👍🏻
Loved your video! But i have a question....i noticed your table top has the wood border going in a different direction on the ends. How do you apply the stain, in all one direction or do you follow the different grain direction on the ends?? If you're following the the grain, how do you apply the stain in different directions where they meet and still have it smooth? This is a big concern for a couple of pieces i have. Thanks!!
Thanks! You want to alternate directions when you get to the breadboard. Here's another video I did that shows and explains the process a little better.
ruclips.net/video/MY5vf1athMA/видео.html
beautiful!!! Would using clear satin and clear gloss varnish work well on wood? Is it worth it?
Both gloss and satin polyurethanes work well from my experience 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thanks!
How long to wait in between the poly coats and should we sand with 220 or 400 before the first coat of poly?
I wait 24hrs between poly coats. I sand the wood to usually only 150, then stain, wait until it’s dry and then poly. Sand each poly coat with 400 before moving to the next coat.
Exelent video 😮
How can I remove that kind of glossy poly? Sanding or some kind of remover? Thank you in avance
Thanks, the only way I know to remove the glossy finish is sanding, more than likely you’ll end up sanding through the stain as well.
That table looks amazing! By using three coats of polyurethane and not the wipe on polyurethane will all this stop watering marks?
Thanks Becca! Yes, polyurethane is usually good for resisting water spots 👍🏻
Hi! This is a great video! Thank you! Do you use mineral spirits to clean the table after sanding between coats of poly? Also do you do anything to the tabletop after the final wipe-on coat?
Thanks Kathee! Yes, mineral spirits will help remove all the dust, just make sure to let the surface completely dry before the next coat. For your second question, no, just let it dry and it’s ready to go at that point 👍🏻
Nice work Matt. I wonder the clear coat you used is heat resistant? I tried to use clear coat from home depot but when I put something hot on my dinner table it gives me a white marks. Any clear coat brand that you recommend that can be heat resistant?
Hey, I’m not sure about heat resistance honestly. The best advice I could offer is to just use a hot pad/board underneath the surface when sitting a hot pan on it. Not great advice, but can’t speak on that with certainty.
, hey I am doing a table in black flat stain and need to know what I can seal it with to keep the flat black look. You know how kids are when they're eaten cereal and spill their milk on top of the table, I want to make sure I can clean it up without staining
If you can find matte polyurethane that would be my recommendation. Satin would work well too, but there is a bit more sheen with a satin finish than matte
Do you poly the other side as well? If not, are you concerned about uneven moisture causing bowing? If you do, when can you safely flip?
I didn’t on this table but it would most likely be beneficial to do so. I would do the bottom first and give it 24hrs or so before flipping 👍🏻
Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
great explanation and step by step.
Did you also poly the bottom? im reading a lot of contradictory information here and there. Seems finishing (shellac or poly) equal coats on all sides came about in the 1970s while the prior decades and centuries only the top and sides were finished.
Hope to hear you thoughts. :)
Yep, the bottom should have poly applied as well to equalize moisture absorption/loss from the air 👍🏻
Hi this is an excellent job. What kind of stain did you use ? Was it oil base ? What kind of wood were you working on ? What other kind of wood I can apply this ? Can I apply it on plywood ?
Thanks! It’s Minwax espresso, oil based (there’s a link to the product in the description). This top was southern yellow pine. You can apply it to any type of wood, and yes you can apply it to plywood
How many coats of expresso did you do before applying the poly? Did you sand before adding the poly?
Just one coat of stain.
No, don’t sand the stain before applying the clear coat.
What type of brush do you use to apply poly? And does it matter how fast you brush it on? (As far as bubbles go)
I’ve found that foam project brushes work better - get a wider brush (4”) if you can find them.
Yes, slowing down will help to reduce the bubbles 👍🏻
Great job! Using water based gloss poly will get the same results?
Thanks! Yes, you should get a similar end result 👍🏻
Very nice
Thanks Cathy!
On wipe on poly , do I wait till last one so dry then apply wipe on or we need to do it when it’s wet ?
Yes, wait until the previous coat is completely dry
Thank you 🙏
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Can i use cloth when applying the polyurethane instead of the brush like you did? which is better though? i'm still a newbie...thanks in advance sir
You’re better off using a brush or foam brush. I’ve never used a cloth aside from the wipe on polyurethane but I don’t see why you couldn’t 👍🏻
Did you sand before staining the table? Thanx for the vid, much appreciated.
Yes, I always sand between 120-220 grit depending on the stain/finish I’ll be using 👍🏻