Man did I need this video! Most others gloss over the seal coat process and I never quite understood what is was supposed to look like. Really appreciate it, beautiful bar top too!
As the rest of the people commenting on your tutorial I found your video to be very informative and I can't thank you enough for you taking the time and effort to help us beginners. It's very refreshing to see that there are still many kind hearted people out in this crazy world we all live in. Many Thanks!
Excellent video man. I'm about to do my first epoxy project for a bar top I built and had no idea what I was getting into. This was an incredible instructional video. Thanks for taking the time to make this. And by the way, good job on this project, it looks amazing!
Same here. First epoxy project and this was sooooo helpful. Live edge table is coming out great. Wondering about the flood coat video that you mentioned. Any tips for that?
Great video! 1000 of videos skip the seal coats leading beginners to believe they can just throw some wood in a mold and pour epoxy over it and have this beautiful bubble free finish.
I build wooden boats here on my farm in Tasmania. I totally agree with the 3-5 times longer spent on the prep work than the final finish. I generally put my initial fill coat on just after the heat of the day is passing. Get the wood nice and warm in the sun, then as the afternoon progresses and my shed gets shaded, I paint it on. I find this facilitates the drawing in of the epoxy. I add a timber preservative and thinning agent to my epoxy to the first two coats to facilitate further absorption, not really needed on furniture projects. Great video.
Thanks for the video and comments from Joseph D (I think it was Joseph). I just used your process on a cracked butcher's block I purchased from Lowe's at a huge discount. I repaired the crack with deep pour epoxy. (final flood coat poured on May 2, 2022.) I used your process and the results blew me away for my first table top pour. I have to say it was your video in conjunction with another video that gave me the info for such a good result. The other video went over the trowel and chop brush procedure. I did find out you need an almost sterile environment when pouring but the few blemishes are miniscule compared to the over-all job. Thanks again for the video and never underestimate that beginners may be clinging to every word you are saying!! Thanks again.
I just wanted to say that this is an excellent video and thank you for making it. I am about to redo my bar top outside and watched hundreds of videos, but this one made the most sense of all. None of them spread them around and or explained as you did. Thank you for making this. I have just been waiting for the temps to drop to start mine in 2 weeks.
I really hesitate on my first time and thought that I was doing somemething wrong. Now I am more confident that ever ! TY for sharing this video, it really help alot !
So many videos on epoxy but yours actually had relative information which answered all the questions on why you applied this method have saved for future reference thank you.
Damn good video man you have explained a lot more than most. I have done a few personal projects and now I see what I did wrong and why my finish wasn't exactly what I wanted. Plan on doing a river type table for my dining room table and plan on using some of your technics now. Again great video and I very much appreciate your hard work.
BEST instructions for a PERFECT finish I've seen, with endless CLOSEUPS that really prove the point of your method. Thanks very much. Just wish you'd told the brand epoxy. . .
MAN, I always say people making videos need to do exactly what you did.....we are going to be making this incredible piece of art!! Start with the images of the end result, awesome video and craftsmanship!!!
I made a table like this for a very long sectional Furniture piece . I laid it out upside down and I needed it to have a 45° angle instead of a 90° angle . I was kind of proud that I got it cut so fast until I put it together and I had the 45° coming out the opposite way that I needed it. Oh well I had to make two smaller tables out of it. Not the first mistake I ever made and also not the last table either
I admire your insouciant attitude toward your mistake. Great characteristic for a demanding hobby such as this. The world needs more relaxed perspectives if we're ever to find true freedom.
I restore boats . I’ve done lots of clear coats and now use a drywall blade that has corners softened with Emory . Pressure as you put on 1 st coat will force some of those air bubbles out , the ones from the chemicals just happen , a heat gun can make them pop . Layers of gloves so you can peel off as you get sticky, hard to reglove a sweaty hand . On our wood Raceboats, we use big square sanding blocks and longboard to get the finish like glass . Razor blades save sandpaper. I vacuum sand with Festool but have used lesser sanders until I got the matching sander . Scotchbrite can do that in between scuffing. I cup end of vacuum on top of it to keep from getting globs built up . Heating the item before application helps it kick and self level.
Great video, thanks for the tips. I know it's a matter of aesthetic preference, but I prefer to see the wood when you've got a really beautiful piece of wood like this, rather than the colored epoxy fill. To each their own!
Oh how I wish I could get this kind of finish on the deck of the boat that I'm building! The deck, of course, slopes off heavily to the edges and makes flood coating and auto-leveling quite impossible. Dealing with dimples, fish eyes, orange peel, etc., on the deck and other curved surfaces coated with epoxy is an on-going source of frustration and grief (and expense), even after years of applying the product. I end up wet sanding heavily and polishing for hours to get a decent finish. Very irritating. But you did a great job on your bar top. You were very patient and it looks fantastic. We'll done, man!
This video was exactly what I needed. Been looking for info cause I knew I needed to do a second seal coat but wasn't sure if it was going to help my situation or not. And this video reassured me that I was going in the correct direction. Thank you so very much! You're Awesome!
You can do either…I usually just end up waiting until it’s set up because it works well with my schedule. Also, I feel like I can make sure I sand out bubbles to allow the epoxy to penetrate and make sure the bubbles aren’t visible.
@@northernridgedesigns thank you for the quick reply and help. I very much do appreciate it. I'm in the middle of putting epoxy on a dovetailed guitar case made of western red cedar that I made for a client. This is my first time doing an epoxy resin pour. I've only used adhesive epoxies. So I'm taking it as a learning experience. Lol Thanks a bunch for your help.
Thank you for your video. I found it to be one of the most informative during my search for tabletop epoxy bar pours. I'm doing the seal coats per your recommendation. How long do you wait in order to sand the 1st seal coat? Is it the full cure time of 16-20 listed on my Total Boat epoxy?
I'm renovating 2 44x107 custom exterior doors and plan to apply epoxy finish to both interior and exterior...your video is very helpful in planning my process
I’m glad you found it helpful. Be cautious when choosing the epoxy for the exterior…most epoxies don’t do well over time with UV exposure. Thanks for watching!
Very nice , someone made a clock from a cut end of a log , for my parents 25 the wedding anniversary. Covered it the same way ?, that was back in 1975.
this is a very gorgeous piece . there is one thing i would have done differently and that is use clear instead of the blue in those spots . but hey to each their own LOL . GREAT job you did there friend .
I have always heard about doing a seal coat and why it is good. Your video was so instructive and showing why up to three seal coats can be so beneficial. I have a large end grain table that I plan to make with a epoxy finish and now know how I will proceed. Thanks much for this video and I wish you and yours a Happy and Prosperous New Year.
That’s cool. I haven’t wanted to use oil base epoxy for this very reason. I will have to look at this in the future. Have actually been around this for awhile. Totally see the difference.
Thank you, thank you thank you for this video, I applied the seal coat, the next morning my heart sank when I saw all those tiny holes all over the table, and wonder what I did wrong and how to correct, this video help me tremendously and made me feel good, I gotta go sand it and add another 2 coats.
I know it is a much debated topic…for me it depends on whether or not there is embedded bracing and how the slab will be attached to a base. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I’m about to make my first river table, but also want to make the long sides be drop leaf. At what point do you suggest cutting the table for the drop leafs? Also, I did epoxy on a slab for a coffee table and now I understand all the “dimples” 😂
Hello, glad you found the video helpful! As for the drop leaf table, if it were me, I’d cut it and then do the seal coats and flood coat. You might be able to seal coat and flood coat the whole thing and then cut it, but if you get any kind of scratching or chip out you’d have to re-flood which is expensive. I’d rather spend some extra time and a little painters tape to do them as separate pieces. If you time it up right (around 16 hours after pouring…depending on the temperature and humidity) you can use an old ID or credit card to scrape the edges of the drop leap so you don’t have to deal with drips. Good luck!
Looks awesome, really gorgeous! Did you have any issues with either the seal coats or the flood coat overflowing through the bark and leaving uneven drip marks?
Great question. Brushing the edges and bark greatly helps reduce drips. I made sure to brush pools of epoxy out of the bark. With that said, I still had 3 or 4 drips total that showed up in the bark during the seal and flood coats. They can easily be removed with a razor blade.
Great video. Just one question on the blue epoxy. You mentioned that it has a much shorter working time. Is this from the same type of epoxy you use for the seal coats or is it a different epoxy?
Great question. The epoxy I used for the blue was a quick coat epoxy and has about a 15 minute work time. You could use it for seal coats on smaller projects, but it just doesn’t have enough work time for a top the size of this piece of walnut. Thanks for watching!
I'm doing my first desk with an epoxy top and I'm glad I saw this video. I was wondering about the sanding when it looks pretty good but there are some imperfections....question...how long do I need to wait before sanding it? It's been curing for about 36 hours so far....
Great job, great information. But you need to explain the products. What is the blue stuff and what is the epoxy, is it the same as fiberglass resin ? Does The Home Depot carry these products ? Or where can I get the products ?
Check out the video description…the product descriptions will answer some of these questions. Most epoxy products I use are Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy. Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir for posting a phenomenal video/tutorial, it doesn’t get any better than this. My wife and I are getting ready to renovate our kitchen and we’re all about authentic rustic charm. We’re country folk and love the lifestyle. My question for you, is will epoxied slab countertops hold up to everyday use (grandkids)? Or should we go another route altogether? Your advice is greatly appreciated…
Hello there! Something I have noticed is that not all epoxy brands are created equal and if you use a quality epoxy, it should hold up well. With that said, epoxy will scratch and show some where and tear over time…as do most finishes. The great thing about epoxy is, if someday in the future you feel it is showing too much wear and tear, you can just sand it out to a matte finish or sand it with 220 and re-pour to a beautiful brand new, glass like finish. Thanks for watching!
The finish looks awesome. Very informative video as well. I am wondering though what you did to ensure the bark won't separate from the wood over time. I've seen many woodworkers do the same thing only to have the bark start separating a few years later. Just curious
Thanks a lot! In regards to the bark, first I made sure the bark was very solid all around and treated any loose pieces with wood glue. Then as I was applying the seal coats I made sure to apply to the bottom side as well. When applying seal coats, it becomes obvious where softer parts are in wood because the epoxy will soak in more there. Where the bark meets the sap wood is very soft and soaks in a lot of epoxy and in my case on both the top and bottom sides. Because of the adhesive properties of epoxy and the high tensile strength, I am not worried at all about it separating over time. Also, this was a kiln dried slab, so there should be very minimal shrinkage/expansion over time, which also helps. Thank you for watching and I hope you subscribe!
Do a few tests on smaller pieces and experiment to see what works best. Temperature is important! Not too hot or cold. Like they said, seal coats and you can use a blow torch or heat gun to pull out any additional bubbles
Thank for the video I think it’s the best live bark edge I have seen just a couple of questions if you have time to answer. You might have already answered them, but I couldn’t find them. If you were going to do the underneath, what would you use like polyurethane and how many coats. On the bark edges how did you do it? Did you put more coats on it and did you sand or just keep adding coats. All tips are much appreciated. Thanks Rod
Thank you and thanks for watching! If I were to seal the bottom, I would probably do like 2 seal coats of epoxy…the same as I put on the top. This way, I wouldn’t have to worry about being able to notice differences where they met. I let the epoxy fall over the bark edge and used a brush to brush it in all the little nooks and crannies. I lightly sanded after each seal coat to help make the bark a smooth feel since people will be rubbing up against it and to help secure a mechanical bond between epoxy layers. There were so many little crevices to help the epoxy bond, so I concentrated on sanding any bigger area of shiny epoxy. The biggest thing is watching for drips, so I would go by and brush drips for an hour or so after pouring. I hope this helps!
Really loved the video. Wish I’d seen it before making my dinning table, but at least caught it and have been putting your tips into practice for my desk. My first seal coat looked similar to yours, but after sanding and doing my second I found it very hard to get the epoxy to not get wavy as I was spreading it vs. smoothing out and I now have a bubble free but very wavy/ uneven looking surface with lines from where I spread it. Is that normal or did I do something wrong? Curious if you have any tips before I sand it and go to apply my 3rd seal coat. Maybe go to 120 then 220 to smooth it out a bit? I just ordered the trowel and brush from your links but want to ensure I get the seals right before I move to the flood.
Great questions! With the seal coats you just try to get the epoxy moved around as best as you can…it will not be all level and you do not want to squeegee it all off so it looks level. The final flood coat, which is 3 times the amount of epoxy, should take care of minor wavy problems. With that said you of course don’t want great big globs anywhere. Also, make sure your piece is perfectly level. It sounds like you are doing things correctly…best of luck!
People rarely consider that the prep takes much longer than the finish...Three days to prep, couple hours for finish...The devil is in the details...Beautiful work though.
Thanks for the whole process but particularly for pointing out in detail the little anomalies and imperfections are a natural part of the procedure. That's something I've not seen emphasized in most other tuts and honestly, it's the thing that when I get to it would make me think I can't follow simple instructions and to give up, so thanks again for showing that this is natural, the problems get solved in smaller steps,every project will have it's particulars, but in the end, have some patience and confidence. Simple enough!
Very nicely done video. Thank you. I appreciate the fast-forward during the repetitive motion and the clear explanation of the steps and the intents behind them. Undulation is the correct word as you said. Thanks again.
Thanks to you for doing this excellent instructional video. I am looking for something to seal a 1/4” birch bar top for my portable Tiki Bar. I am thinking unicorn spit for some color then sealing it with epoxy. It will be subject to outdoor use with some rain and morning dew. I believe this product will meet my needs. Thanks again for helping us hobbyists with the map to produce works of art.
Brother you explain it so well... I'm following your guidance and working on a fireplace mantle...I'm gonna follow exactly as you showing here...thanks
Beautiful work! I learned a lot, I just did a counter top and had a few problems I think I can solve because of your video. I guessing I can use the same procedure for sanding out, a couple of bubbles and waves in my counter top flood coat, before I put on my epoxy top coat. Should I start off with 80 grit and work my way to 220? and my top coat will take care of any dullness and scratches? Again beautiful work great video.
I'm speechless , so beautiful..im getting ready to attempt to build a small outside bar top, your video has helped me get a better appreciation foe what needs to be done..thank you
Looks amazing! One thing I instantly did notice was the misalignment of the lighter color wood line with the other piece that was joined at 45 degrees... but overall, really really good finished product!
Yeah, I’d be willing to bet the top was made from two separate slabs and therefore it would be next to impossible to find two that had the exact same sap wood thickness. I didn’t do the miter…just the finish. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. This helps to see how to get good results with tools and such that many wood workers already have. Good explanations and how to's for us " common" folk.
Great explanation on this. I'm at this step now. My question is about the bottom - do we need to treat the bottom with anything? Will there be a chance for warping without anything on the bottom?
For me, I decide whether or not to treat the bottom depending on how the top will be attached to the base. If it will be attached well to a stout base, I wouldn’t worry about the bottom side. Thanks for watching!
Watching this video would have, and will, save me so much time. I did a seal coat and sanded to 220 and it looked liked trash. I assume I screwed up and sanded the whole thing back to the wood and had to stain again. But what you did in your video was IDENTICAL to my experience. I just didn't recognize it and assumed I ruined it. SIGH.
I can see how that would happen, projects look pretty rough after the initial seal coat. I’m glad you found the video helpful though…thanks for watching!
I can't tell you how helpful this video is. I have a very similar L-shaped (Sycamore) Live Edge bar counter top I'll be working with. I used your formula ( 1oz. per sq. ft.) for three seal coat and 3oz. / sq. ft. for the final "flood" coat. I just purchased 3 liter of epoxy and realize I'll need another 3 liters. I assume the blow torch helps the setting/ drying process then ?
Glad you found it helpful! The torch mainly helps to pop bubbles in the epoxy. It does warm it up a bit, which does help it cure perhaps a bit faster…but mainly it’s to get out the embedded bubbles. Thanks for watching!
Hi and great question! I definitely don’t work in a dust free environment, so I take certain steps to cut down on dust imperfections…but there are usually always some small ones…that most people would not notice. When possible, I sand the day before I’m going to pour epoxy. I also clean the floors really well the day before. I limit access to the area and I myself try to move slowly when doing the flood coat. So basically I try to do as much prep work the day before so air born dust as a chance to settle. I’ll wipe it down with blue shop towels and then pour. Probably the most important thing is to turn off the lights when you leave. Lights really reflect off the epoxy and seem to draw insects to it. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever used a sand and sealer ? I have used it for many years and always had great results ....99 % I only used 2 seal coats from Stone Coat . at 100$ a gallon , when I bought it , saved some time Your finish is great ....I enjoy working with black walnut so much myself and yellow locust . When that last coat of epoxy is the best . Again beautiful .
I have never used it on a customer’s project, but I have on some of my own stuff. I like the idea of epoxy soaking into the wood for the best bond, but my stuff that I sealed first seems to be holding up just fine, so maybe my concerns were unfounded…time will tell. Thanks for watching…much appreciated!
Great video!!! No nonsense and to the point. May I ask how do you achieve the final coat to be 1/8 inch thick? Does the squeegee set the depth for that last coat? Or does it all just even itself out? Thanks!
Glad you can appreciate the no nonsense! The final coat ends up being a bit less than 1/8”, but an even coat is achieved by using an 1/8” square notch trowel. Then I use my hand or a paint brush to chop out the trowel lines. Thanks for watching!
Just saw this Video i like the idea of the sealer coats. My question is, what do you do about the underside drips & the underside where people may put their hands on ?
Great questions! If I let the drips cure, I’ll use an angle grinder with a metal sanding disk to knock them down and then sand flush and up to 220. If you can catch the drips at about 4-6 hours after the pour you can scrape them off with an old credit card pretty easily and you’ll need minimal sanding to smooth everything out. I prefer this method if it works with my schedule. But as I said, I sand the bottom whether it be bare wood or epoxy with 220 and it is smooth to the touch. Thanks for watching!
I’m glad you found the video helpful! The bottom side depends on the situation, but in this case it was left untreated. The slab had been in place for years and was in a climate controlled room. Also, it was going to be securely attached to a solid base. Thanks for watching.
This has helped me out so much! I guess you gotta be patient in between coats! I do have a question. I have a big piece of oak that I am working with and there is a gully going through the middle of it! Will the Epoxy level itself out in between coats? I send send a picture to show you! Thanks,Gina
The fast setting epoxy is Stone Coat Countertop Quick Coat Epoxy. The epoxy used for the seal coats and flood coat is Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy. I have links to the products I used in the description for this video. Thank you for watching!
Temperature and humidity can affect cure time, but I usually wait around 24 hours. At that point I can usually sand and recoat. Epoxy will cure faster in a room that’s 75 degrees versus once that’s 65. Best of luck!
Very good instructions my friend. I'm now doing epoxy tables and I appreciate your prep put into this. I'm using Pecan and it's beautiful. Thoughts on Stone Coat epoxy?
Thank you! It’s pretty awesome to see how the epoxy can bring out the character in the wood. I use Stone Coat Countertop epoxy for about 90 percent of what I do. I’ve been very happy with their products!
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Man did I need this video! Most others gloss over the seal coat process and I never quite understood what is was supposed to look like. Really appreciate it, beautiful bar top too!
I’m glad you found it helpful…thanks for watching!
This video told me EXACTLY what I needed to do. I was at the first seal coat stage and it was knarly and I was worried.. but now I'm not! Thank you!
I’m glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
As the rest of the people commenting on your tutorial I found your video to be very informative and I can't thank you enough for you taking the time and effort to help us beginners. It's very refreshing to see that there are still many kind hearted people out in this crazy world we all live in. Many Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
@@northernridgedesigns u welcome
new phone who dis?
@@northernridgedesigns
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Same here, great instructions and this helped me as I'm working on my first table. Thanks for the great video!@@northernridgedesigns
I've watched this video so many times, perfect guide for my bar top project. Same wood, same shape, same finish. Thanks for the guidance!!
So glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video man. I'm about to do my first epoxy project for a bar top I built and had no idea what I was getting into. This was an incredible instructional video. Thanks for taking the time to make this. And by the way, good job on this project, it looks amazing!
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck on your bar top...feel free to ask questions!
Same here. First epoxy project and this was sooooo helpful. Live edge table is coming out great. Wondering about the flood coat video that you mentioned. Any tips for that?
Great video! 1000 of videos skip the seal coats leading beginners to believe they can just throw some wood in a mold and pour epoxy over it and have this beautiful bubble free finish.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I build wooden boats here on my farm in Tasmania. I totally agree with the 3-5 times longer spent on the prep work than the final finish.
I generally put my initial fill coat on just after the heat of the day is passing. Get the wood nice and warm in the sun, then as the afternoon progresses and my shed gets shaded, I paint it on. I find this facilitates the drawing in of the epoxy. I add a timber preservative and thinning agent to my epoxy to the first two coats to facilitate further absorption, not really needed on furniture projects.
Great video.
And a thank you for watching all the way to Tasmania!
Thanks for the video and comments from Joseph D (I think it was Joseph). I just used your process on a cracked butcher's block I purchased from Lowe's at a huge discount. I repaired the crack with deep pour epoxy. (final flood coat poured on May 2, 2022.) I used your process and the results blew me away for my first table top pour. I have to say it was your video in conjunction with another video that gave me the info for such a good result. The other video went over the trowel and chop brush procedure. I did find out you need an almost sterile environment when pouring but the few blemishes are miniscule compared to the over-all job. Thanks again for the video and never underestimate that beginners may be clinging to every word you are saying!! Thanks again.
Good stuff!
I just wanted to say that this is an excellent video and thank you for making it. I am about to redo my bar top outside and watched hundreds of videos, but this one made the most sense of all. None of them spread them around and or explained as you did. Thank you for making this. I have just been waiting for the temps to drop to start mine in 2 weeks.
So glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching and good luck!
I really hesitate on my first time and thought that I was doing somemething wrong. Now I am more confident that ever ! TY for sharing this video, it really help alot !
I’m glad you found it helpful! Good luck!
I had no reason to watch this but I stayed for the whole thing. Great video!
Haha thanks for watching!
So many videos on epoxy but yours actually had relative information which answered all the questions on why you applied this method have saved for future reference thank you.
Glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Incredible. Love the detail you give in the explanation, and how concise you are too. Finished product is beautiful too.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Wow this is one of the best videos I've seen yet. Thank you, sir.
I’m glad you like it! Thanks for watching!
Damn good video man you have explained a lot more than most. I have done a few personal projects and now I see what I did wrong and why my finish wasn't exactly what I wanted. Plan on doing a river type table for my dining room table and plan on using some of your technics now. Again great video and I very much appreciate your hard work.
Glad you liked the video…thanks for watching!
BEST instructions for a PERFECT finish I've seen, with endless CLOSEUPS that really prove the point of your method. Thanks very much. Just wish you'd told the brand epoxy. . .
Glad you liked the video! The brand of epoxy I used is Stone Coat Countertop epoxy. Thanks for watching!
Just got my first 8ft 20inch slab. Amazing work here, thank you for sharing !
Thank you and good luck on your slab!
This video saved my project from going to the dumpster to sanding and trying it again. I really appreciate this video
Haha I’m glad you found it useful! Most epoxy projects look pretty rough and bleak after one coat! Good luck!
Great video. I’ve been considering getting into these type of projects with epoxy
Thank you and thanks for watching!
MAN, I always say people making videos need to do exactly what you did.....we are going to be making this incredible piece of art!! Start with the images of the end result, awesome video and craftsmanship!!!
Glad you enjoyed it…thank you and thanks for watching!
I made a table like this for a very long sectional Furniture piece . I laid it out upside down and I needed it to have a 45° angle instead of a 90° angle . I was kind of proud that I got it cut so fast until I put it together and I had the 45° coming out the opposite way that I needed it. Oh well I had to make two smaller tables out of it. Not the first mistake I ever made and also not the last table either
So easy to do! Thanks for watching!
I admire your insouciant attitude toward your mistake. Great characteristic for a demanding hobby such as this.
The world needs more relaxed perspectives if we're ever to find true freedom.
Thanks for all your tips. I was a tad nervous using Exposy on my live edge table top, but I used your techniques and it came out perfect.
That’s great to hear…glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Wow! The detail that you went into really helped me build the courage to pursue projects like this. Seal coats make a huge difference. Well done!
Glad to help and thanks for watching!
I restore boats .
I’ve done lots of clear coats and now use a drywall blade that has corners softened with Emory .
Pressure as you put on 1 st coat will force some of those air bubbles out , the ones from the chemicals just happen , a heat gun can make them pop .
Layers of gloves so you can peel off as you get sticky, hard to reglove a sweaty hand .
On our wood Raceboats, we use big square sanding blocks and longboard to get the finish like glass .
Razor blades save sandpaper.
I vacuum sand with Festool but have used lesser sanders until I got the matching sander .
Scotchbrite can do that in between scuffing. I cup end of vacuum on top of it to keep from getting globs built up .
Heating the item before application helps it kick and self level.
Some great tips there…thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks for the tips.
I know it's a matter of aesthetic preference, but I prefer to see the wood when you've got a really beautiful piece of wood like this, rather than the colored epoxy fill. To each their own!
Glad you enjoyed the video…thanks for watching!
I agree I thought that the blue looked pretty awful.
Oh how I wish I could get this kind of finish on the deck of the boat that I'm building! The deck, of course, slopes off heavily to the edges and makes flood coating and auto-leveling quite impossible.
Dealing with dimples, fish eyes, orange peel, etc., on the deck and other curved surfaces coated with epoxy is an on-going source of frustration and grief (and expense), even after years of applying the product. I end up wet sanding heavily and polishing for hours to get a decent finish. Very irritating.
But you did a great job on your bar top. You were very patient and it looks fantastic. We'll done, man!
Wow, that does sound frustrating! Thank you for watching and for the kind words!
This is a great video, it’s exactly what I want to do for my personal bar top!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
⅚úgt
This video was exactly what I needed. Been looking for info cause I knew I needed to do a second seal coat but wasn't sure if it was going to help my situation or not. And this video reassured me that I was going in the correct direction. Thank you so very much! You're Awesome!
Glad you found it helpful…thanks for watching!
@@northernridgedesignscould I apply additional seal coats while they're in that sticky stage or is it best just to wait for each seal coat to cure?
You can do either…I usually just end up waiting until it’s set up because it works well with my schedule. Also, I feel like I can make sure I sand out bubbles to allow the epoxy to penetrate and make sure the bubbles aren’t visible.
@@northernridgedesigns thank you for the quick reply and help. I very much do appreciate it. I'm in the middle of putting epoxy on a dovetailed guitar case made of western red cedar that I made for a client. This is my first time doing an epoxy resin pour. I've only used adhesive epoxies. So I'm taking it as a learning experience. Lol Thanks a bunch for your help.
Thank you for your video. I found it to be one of the most informative during my search for tabletop epoxy bar pours. I'm doing the seal coats per your recommendation. How long do you wait in order to sand the 1st seal coat? Is it the full cure time of 16-20 listed on my Total Boat epoxy?
I usually wait 24 hours for Stone Coat Countertop epoxy. Sometimes a little shorter based on the temp and humidity. Thanks for watching!
I'm renovating 2 44x107 custom exterior doors and plan to apply epoxy finish to both interior and exterior...your video is very helpful in planning my process
I’m glad you found it helpful. Be cautious when choosing the epoxy for the exterior…most epoxies don’t do well over time with UV exposure. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful job. How long do you let the seal coats dry, before sanding. Thanks
I usually wait at least 24 hrs. Thanks for watching!
Wow beautiful table! So helpful thanks much~
Glad you found it helpful and thanks for watching!
Very nice , someone made a clock from a cut end of a log , for my parents 25 the wedding anniversary.
Covered it the same way ?, that was back in 1975.
Hi mate what grit do you use on second goat and fabulous jop
Thanks for watching!
220 grit
Thanks for appropriate details for a beginner. I'm excited rather than intimidated after watching your work!
Glad you found the video helpful!
Wow...I would love to work with you guys....I used to do polyester finishes on pianos many years ago in the UK
Thank you for watching!
Enjoyed the project. It cleared up some confusion on seal coats.
Glad you found it useful…thanks for watching!
this is a very gorgeous piece . there is one thing i would have done differently and that is use clear instead of the blue in those spots . but hey to each their own LOL . GREAT job you did there friend .
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I have always heard about doing a seal coat and why it is good. Your video was so instructive and showing why up to three seal coats can be so beneficial. I have a large end grain table that I plan to make with a epoxy finish and now know how I will proceed.
Thanks much for this video and I wish you and yours a Happy and Prosperous New Year.
I’m glad you’ve found it useful…thank you for watching and best of luck!
That’s cool. I haven’t wanted to use oil base epoxy for this very reason. I will have to look at this in the future. Have actually been around this for awhile. Totally see the difference.
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you, thank you thank you for this video, I applied the seal coat, the next morning my heart sank when I saw all those tiny holes all over the table, and wonder what I did wrong and how to correct, this video help me tremendously and made me feel good, I gotta go sand it and add another 2 coats.
Haha yes, the first coat or two look real rough. Glad you found the video helpful…best of luck!
Question: Isn't it a good idea to somehow seal the underside too keep the wood from taking on and losing moisture and then cracking/splitting?
Right or wrong thats what i do on all my pours.
I know it is a much debated topic…for me it depends on whether or not there is embedded bracing and how the slab will be attached to a base. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video and explanation of the process you used! Also thanks for the links they were very useful.
I’m glad you found it useful…thanks for watching!
Great video! I’m about to make my first river table, but also want to make the long sides be drop leaf. At what point do you suggest cutting the table for the drop leafs? Also, I did epoxy on a slab for a coffee table and now I understand all the “dimples” 😂
Hello, glad you found the video helpful! As for the drop leaf table, if it were me, I’d cut it and then do the seal coats and flood coat. You might be able to seal coat and flood coat the whole thing and then cut it, but if you get any kind of scratching or chip out you’d have to re-flood which is expensive. I’d rather spend some extra time and a little painters tape to do them as separate pieces. If you time it up right (around 16 hours after pouring…depending on the temperature and humidity) you can use an old ID or credit card to scrape the edges of the drop leap so you don’t have to deal with drips. Good luck!
the dinning room table has got to be one of the coolest pieces of walnut ive ever seen
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Wish I watched this before I did my seal coat! More sanding now...
Thanks for watching!
Hands down best epoxy video I have seen. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much! Thanks for watching!
Looks awesome, really gorgeous! Did you have any issues with either the seal coats or the flood coat overflowing through the bark and leaving uneven drip marks?
Great question. Brushing the edges and bark greatly helps reduce drips. I made sure to brush pools of epoxy out of the bark. With that said, I still had 3 or 4 drips total that showed up in the bark during the seal and flood coats. They can easily be removed with a razor blade.
Holy crap that is absolutely gorgeous!!!!! Exellent work!!!!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great video. Just one question on the blue epoxy. You mentioned that it has a much shorter working time. Is this from the same type of epoxy you use for the seal coats or is it a different epoxy?
Great question. The epoxy I used for the blue was a quick coat epoxy and has about a 15 minute work time. You could use it for seal coats on smaller projects, but it just doesn’t have enough work time for a top the size of this piece of walnut. Thanks for watching!
Where do you buy the epoxy? Sherwin Williams said they only had white or garage kits? Home Depot only had a kit as well🤔
I'm doing my first desk with an epoxy top and I'm glad I saw this video. I was wondering about the sanding when it looks pretty good but there are some imperfections....question...how long do I need to wait before sanding it? It's been curing for about 36 hours so far....
As long as it isn’t tacky anymore, I’ll sand it. Good luck and thanks for watching!
gorgeous work! thank you for the tips & tricks!
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for sharing this. Videos like this one save a lot of people like me time and money. Great instructions and editing. SUBSCRIBED!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great job, great information. But you need to explain the products. What is the blue stuff and what is the epoxy, is it the same as fiberglass resin ? Does The Home Depot carry these products ? Or where can I get the products ?
Check out the video description…the product descriptions will answer some of these questions. Most epoxy products I use are Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy. Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir for posting a phenomenal video/tutorial, it doesn’t get any better than this.
My wife and I are getting ready to renovate our kitchen and we’re all about authentic rustic charm. We’re country folk and love the lifestyle. My question for you, is will epoxied slab countertops hold up to everyday use (grandkids)? Or should we go another route altogether?
Your advice is greatly appreciated…
Hello there! Something I have noticed is that not all epoxy brands are created equal and if you use a quality epoxy, it should hold up well. With that said, epoxy will scratch and show some where and tear over time…as do most finishes. The great thing about epoxy is, if someday in the future you feel it is showing too much wear and tear, you can just sand it out to a matte finish or sand it with 220 and re-pour to a beautiful brand new, glass like finish. Thanks for watching!
The finish looks awesome. Very informative video as well. I am wondering though what you did to ensure the bark won't separate from the wood over time. I've seen many woodworkers do the same thing only to have the bark start separating a few years later. Just curious
Thanks a lot! In regards to the bark, first I made sure the bark was very solid all around and treated any loose pieces with wood glue. Then as I was applying the seal coats I made sure to apply to the bottom side as well. When applying seal coats, it becomes obvious where softer parts are in wood because the epoxy will soak in more there. Where the bark meets the sap wood is very soft and soaks in a lot of epoxy and in my case on both the top and bottom sides. Because of the adhesive properties of epoxy and the high tensile strength, I am not worried at all about it separating over time. Also, this was a kiln dried slab, so there should be very minimal shrinkage/expansion over time, which also helps. Thank you for watching and I hope you subscribe!
Awesome video very helpful I always have excess bubbles and with this system it work’s absolutely awesome takes longer but a beautiful finish thanks
I’m glad you found the video helpful…thanks for watching!
Do a few tests on smaller pieces and experiment to see what works best. Temperature is important! Not too hot or cold. Like they said, seal coats and you can use a blow torch or heat gun to pull out any additional bubbles
All true…thanks for watching!
Thank for the video I think it’s the best live bark edge I have seen just a couple of questions if you have time to answer. You might have already answered them, but I couldn’t find them.
If you were going to do the underneath, what would you use like polyurethane and how many coats.
On the bark edges how did you do it? Did you put more coats on it and did you sand or just keep adding coats. All tips are much appreciated.
Thanks Rod
Thank you and thanks for watching! If I were to seal the bottom, I would probably do like 2 seal coats of epoxy…the same as I put on the top. This way, I wouldn’t have to worry about being able to notice differences where they met. I let the epoxy fall over the bark edge and used a brush to brush it in all the little nooks and crannies. I lightly sanded after each seal coat to help make the bark a smooth feel since people will be rubbing up against it and to help secure a mechanical bond between epoxy layers. There were so many little crevices to help the epoxy bond, so I concentrated on sanding any bigger area of shiny epoxy. The biggest thing is watching for drips, so I would go by and brush drips for an hour or so after pouring. I hope this helps!
Really loved the video. Wish I’d seen it before making my dinning table, but at least caught it and have been putting your tips into practice for my desk.
My first seal coat looked similar to yours, but after sanding and doing my second I found it very hard to get the epoxy to not get wavy as I was spreading it vs. smoothing out and I now have a bubble free but very wavy/ uneven looking surface with lines from where I spread it. Is that normal or did I do something wrong?
Curious if you have any tips before I sand it and go to apply my 3rd seal coat. Maybe go to 120 then 220 to smooth it out a bit?
I just ordered the trowel and brush from your links but want to ensure I get the seals right before I move to the flood.
Great questions! With the seal coats you just try to get the epoxy moved around as best as you can…it will not be all level and you do not want to squeegee it all off so it looks level. The final flood coat, which is 3 times the amount of epoxy, should take care of minor wavy problems. With that said you of course don’t want great big globs anywhere. Also, make sure your piece is perfectly level. It sounds like you are doing things correctly…best of luck!
amazing. Love to do this for a living. Have made many small items came out great. Just not sure how to begin.
It is definitely a lot of fun to see the finished product! Thanks for watching!
People rarely consider that the prep takes much longer than the finish...Three days to prep, couple hours for finish...The devil is in the details...Beautiful work though.
So true…thanks for watching!
Beautiful job.
Yes it does
Thank you
Thanks for the whole process but particularly for pointing out in detail the little anomalies and imperfections are a natural part of the procedure. That's something I've not seen emphasized in most other tuts and honestly, it's the thing that when I get to it would make me think I can't follow simple instructions and to give up, so thanks again for showing that this is natural, the problems get solved in smaller steps,every project will have it's particulars, but in the end, have some patience and confidence. Simple enough!
Well put! Thanks for watching!
thank you for posting. I am ready to give it a try.
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck!
Very nicely done video. Thank you. I appreciate the fast-forward during the repetitive motion and the clear explanation of the steps and the intents behind them. Undulation is the correct word as you said. Thanks again.
Thank you and thanks for watching! I’m glad you appreciate what we did!
Thank u for sharing this Video it really help me on my little kitchen counter I’m making
I’m glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks to you for doing this excellent instructional video. I am looking for something to seal a 1/4” birch bar top for my portable Tiki Bar. I am thinking unicorn spit for some color then sealing it with epoxy. It will be subject to outdoor use with some rain and morning dew. I believe this product will meet my needs. Thanks again for helping us hobbyists with the map to produce works of art.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Brother you explain it so well... I'm following your guidance and working on a fireplace mantle...I'm gonna follow exactly as you showing here...thanks
Very cool! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Beautiful work! I learned a lot, I just did a counter top and had a few problems I think I can solve because of your video. I guessing I can use the same procedure for sanding out, a couple of bubbles and waves in my counter top flood coat, before I put on my epoxy top coat. Should I start off with 80 grit and work my way to 220? and my top coat will take care of any dullness and scratches? Again beautiful work great video.
Unless you wanted to take out some high spots in the waves, I’d just hit it with 220 and do the flood coat. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your discovery about what works for you. It will work for anyone who wants as close to perfection as possible.
Thank you for watching!
Merci à vous pour tous ces précieux renseignements travail d’exception un petit tuyau quelle résine utilisée pour avoir un rendu comme ça merci
Merci beaucoup!
I'm speechless , so beautiful..im getting ready to attempt to build a small outside bar top, your video has helped me get a better appreciation foe what needs to be done..thank you
Glad you found it helpful…good luck on your bar!
I think epoxy is not a good finish for outside furniture - it quickly gets yellow and damaged by the sun.
Looks amazing!
One thing I instantly did notice was the misalignment of the lighter color wood line with the other piece that was joined at 45 degrees... but overall, really really good finished product!
Yeah, I’d be willing to bet the top was made from two separate slabs and therefore it would be next to impossible to find two that had the exact same sap wood thickness. I didn’t do the miter…just the finish. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. This helps to see how to get good results with tools and such that many wood workers already have. Good explanations and how to's for us " common" folk.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
NICE!!! Im about to coat my 1st corner bar out of Maple. nice tips!
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck!
Best clear coat finish ive seen. Great work
Much appreciated!
Excellent job! How do you get a beautiful coating like that on a vertical surface?
Thank you! Same process, the coatings just won’t be as thick, because more of the product will run off. This is basically what happens on the edges.
@@northernridgedesigns Do you need any thickeners added? Like Silica.
Super finish! Thanks for sharing. I going to look for the flood coat video.
Thanks for watching!
Great explanation on this. I'm at this step now. My question is about the bottom - do we need to treat the bottom with anything? Will there be a chance for warping without anything on the bottom?
For me, I decide whether or not to treat the bottom depending on how the top will be attached to the base. If it will be attached well to a stout base, I wouldn’t worry about the bottom side. Thanks for watching!
Watching this video would have, and will, save me so much time. I did a seal coat and sanded to 220 and it looked liked trash. I assume I screwed up and sanded the whole thing back to the wood and had to stain again. But what you did in your video was IDENTICAL to my experience. I just didn't recognize it and assumed I ruined it. SIGH.
I can see how that would happen, projects look pretty rough after the initial seal coat. I’m glad you found the video helpful though…thanks for watching!
I can't tell you how helpful this video is. I have a very similar L-shaped (Sycamore) Live Edge bar counter top I'll be working with. I used your formula ( 1oz. per sq. ft.) for three seal coat and 3oz. / sq. ft. for the final "flood" coat. I just purchased 3 liter of epoxy and realize I'll need another 3 liters. I assume the blow torch helps the setting/ drying process then ?
Glad you found it helpful! The torch mainly helps to pop bubbles in the epoxy. It does warm it up a bit, which does help it cure perhaps a bit faster…but mainly it’s to get out the embedded bubbles. Thanks for watching!
Very good video I did a 42" round top that I mounted on a log top came out ok but did have some bubbles learned o lot from this video thanks
I’m glad you found it helpful…thanks for watching!
Thanks buddy, glad I watched this before I coated my bar top👍🏼
I’m glad you found it helpful…good luck and thanks for watching!
Great video and awesome bar! Thanks for the instructions! I also appreciate the Amazon links.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thanks for all the step by step. How long does it take before seal coats? Dry time
Thanks for watching!
Hi Mike,
thanks for a good video. Tell me please, how do you protect such a big piece from the dust while coating it?
Hi and great question! I definitely don’t work in a dust free environment, so I take certain steps to cut down on dust imperfections…but there are usually always some small ones…that most people would not notice. When possible, I sand the day before I’m going to pour epoxy. I also clean the floors really well the day before. I limit access to the area and I myself try to move slowly when doing the flood coat. So basically I try to do as much prep work the day before so air born dust as a chance to settle. I’ll wipe it down with blue shop towels and then pour. Probably the most important thing is to turn off the lights when you leave. Lights really reflect off the epoxy and seem to draw insects to it. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely beautiful , does the bark come out like that without sanding ? I have got to try this on my next project
Thank you! I did not sand after the final flood coat…so the finish you see there is the high gloss you get with poured epoxy. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever used a sand and sealer ?
I have used it for many years and always had great results ....99 % I only used 2 seal coats from Stone Coat . at 100$ a gallon , when I bought it , saved some time
Your finish is great ....I enjoy working with black walnut so much myself and yellow locust . When that last coat of epoxy is the best .
Again beautiful .
I have never used it on a customer’s project, but I have on some of my own stuff. I like the idea of epoxy soaking into the wood for the best bond, but my stuff that I sealed first seems to be holding up just fine, so maybe my concerns were unfounded…time will tell. Thanks for watching…much appreciated!
Great video!!! No nonsense and to the point. May I ask how do you achieve the final coat to be 1/8 inch thick? Does the squeegee set the depth for that last coat? Or does it all just even itself out? Thanks!
Glad you can appreciate the no nonsense! The final coat ends up being a bit less than 1/8”, but an even coat is achieved by using an 1/8” square notch trowel. Then I use my hand or a paint brush to chop out the trowel lines. Thanks for watching!
Just saw this Video i like the idea of the sealer coats. My question is, what do you do about the underside drips & the underside where people may put their hands on ?
Great questions! If I let the drips cure, I’ll use an angle grinder with a metal sanding disk to knock them down and then sand flush and up to 220. If you can catch the drips at about 4-6 hours after the pour you can scrape them off with an old credit card pretty easily and you’ll need minimal sanding to smooth everything out. I prefer this method if it works with my schedule. But as I said, I sand the bottom whether it be bare wood or epoxy with 220 and it is smooth to the touch. Thanks for watching!
Rad video. Solved a lot of issues I’ve been having. One question: how did you treat the bottom side?
I’m glad you found the video helpful! The bottom side depends on the situation, but in this case it was left untreated. The slab had been in place for years and was in a climate controlled room. Also, it was going to be securely attached to a solid base. Thanks for watching.
This has helped me out so much! I guess you gotta be patient in between coats! I do have a question. I have a big piece of oak that I am working with and there is a gully going through the middle of it! Will the Epoxy level itself out in between coats? I send send a picture to show you! Thanks,Gina
The epoxy can help with your low spot, but you might have to do a separate pour on the low area to help things along. Thanks for watching!
Great video
Thanks
What is the fast setting epoxy you used with the blue
And what type of epoxy did you use for the seal coats and final
Thank you
The fast setting epoxy is Stone Coat Countertop Quick Coat Epoxy. The epoxy used for the seal coats and flood coat is Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy. I have links to the products I used in the description for this video. Thank you for watching!
Absolutely beautiful workmanship!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Very informative thanks for your attention to detail. the end result speaks for itself, It is stunning
Thank you!
Amazing product! The attention to detail makes all the difference you should be damn proud of your work.
Thank you so much and thanks for watching!
How long do you wait between each coat of epoxy? As a first timer with epoxy, I am finding your video my best resource! Thank you! 12:41
Temperature and humidity can affect cure time, but I usually wait around 24 hours. At that point I can usually sand and recoat. Epoxy will cure faster in a room that’s 75 degrees versus once that’s 65. Best of luck!
Thanks for sharing. I needed the information for a small project I’m trying
Glad you found it helpful…thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks.
I now know how I'm going to finish my breakfast bar!
Thanks.
Graeme
Sounds awesome…thanks for watching!
Very good instructions my friend. I'm now doing epoxy tables and I appreciate your prep put into this. I'm using Pecan and it's beautiful. Thoughts on Stone Coat epoxy?
Thank you! It’s pretty awesome to see how the epoxy can bring out the character in the wood. I use Stone Coat Countertop epoxy for about 90 percent of what I do. I’ve been very happy with their products!
I do your technique on the seal coats and man does it make a difference. I need better color additives. Do you recommend any particular products?
@@popestreet42 I have had good luck with Stone Coat Countertop additives. Their metallic powders and die seem to work very well for me. Good luck!
I enjoy watching your video lots of great answers to my questions thanks for sharing your skills
Thanks for watching!