Links to products used in this video: ⬇️ Random orbit sander: amzn.to/3fhd1Rt Sanding: 320 grit Sponge: amzn.to/3e4BQ3q 120 grit Sponge: amzn.to/3e462vH 320 Grit for Sander: amzn.to/3e7LemN 120 Grit for Sander: amzn.to/3gdWQY5 320 Grit Sheet: amzn.to/3x7UEYv 120 Grit Sheet: amzn.to/3wYc5KF Dark Walnut wood stain: amzn.to/35p8mIU Dark Walnut stain (Alternative choice): amzn.to/3soNps5 Varathane Water Based Polyurethane Wood Finish (from most reflective to least reflective) 1. Gloss (Used in the video) : amzn.to/2Zn5SbP 2. Semi-Gloss: amzn.to/3uNn2Nk 3. Satin: amzn.to/3dk7kmT 4. Matte: amzn.to/3mPSBmZ Foam brush: amzn.to/2WswbLY Paint Brush, 2-1/2 inch: amzn.to/2NyQiXJ Tack Cloth: amzn.to/3qnPdkk Countertop Brush: amzn.to/35JxafI Gerton: www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-t... Support this channel on Patreon! www.patreon.com/amircreator Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/a.mircreator/ Production: Main Camera: amzn.to/3aujLtW Lens 1: amzn.to/3rhnjX2 Lens 2: amzn.to/3rcJ8qT Backup Camera and lens: amzn.to/2RF5V24 Disclaimer: Some of these links lead to products and tools used in the video. If you click, or buy something there, I get a small commission, but it doesn't change the price for you. If you would like to support me, have a look.
A couple helpful suggestions. After your final sanding, before stain, wipe the surface with a rag or paper towel wetted with mineral spirits. This will remove all the sawdust and will evaporate in just a few minutes. After your final finish coat, rub the surface with a smooth piece of a brown paper bag. It's like 6000 grit sandpaper. You will be amazed at the difference you can feel.
@@thomasspool Let me know what you think if the results. It's not going to turn white like it does when you sand a top coat, it just smooths out to the feel.
I have two projects going right now, a desk and a bench; both of which are pine. The bench is ready for a finish but I’ve been spending a lot of time here and there researching the best way to darken the pine while not ruining it… At the moment, I’m looking at a pre conditioner of sorts, a day later, a quick 1-2 minute soak of stain similiar to the video above, and than 24-48 hours later a clear lacquer. Then the 6000 grit brown bag a day or two after that dries. Any thoughts or tips or precautions on this- specifically with pine?
This tutorial was great!! I have never finished wood before and I was seriously starting to regret buying unfinished furniture. Your instructions are clear and the music definitely helped me chill out and realize I can definitely do this. Thank you!!
Instead of using a paintbrush, I used the head of a swiffer sweeper that is about 16" X 4" and doubled up a 16" X 16" micro fiber towel instead of the swiffer sweeper pads. For wider projects than mine I have seen microfiber towels up to 24" X 24", or you could get a much larger piece of cloth from a fabric store. Then build your own base to put it on. You can probably use any type of finish you like. I used an oil base top coat over a previously stained wood. I imagine you can do this with stain as well. However I didn't come up with the idea until after I had already done my staining. I poured my top coat directly onto my double layered microfiber towel on the swiffer head and onto another folded over microfiber towel. First I used the 2nd folded towel to apply my top coat to my rounded over edges, overlapping the flat side a little bit, then used the microfiber towel on the swiffer head to go over the flat side. I had almost enough top coat in my microfibre towel to cover a 10' X 11" shelf on both sides. I could tell I was running out of top coat when I got near the end of the 2nd side. I added more top coat to my microfibre and went over that side a second time. The 2 benefits that I could see to this method are 1st and most obvious is that there are no overlapping brush strokes, and 2nd, it is a lot faster because you're only making one pass. I was able to ring out most of the top coat from the towels back into the can, leaving very little waste.
Thanks for a great video. You covered all I wanted for a 1st time DYer. No wasted time,. You fast forwareded repeat steps while you gave a voice over. Excellent use of time.
Using a conditioner for that type of wood would have achieved much better results i.e. no blotchiness (look carefully at his table). Its better to not do it in stages because you will over lap and create lines (not noticeable usually to the untrained eye). To do it in one go its better to use a rag, its also faster and achieves a cleaner looking end piece.
I used my table as is for more than a year, bacause I moved to a room and ordered all the furniture, and my friends mounted all the ikea stuff, then when I got into my room, I realized the table wasn't finished, but I didn't know how to do it so I just used it. Then I went back to my house after that time and got sent the table and used your video as a guide, so it helped me a lot (except I didn't dye it, because I wanted it to look whiter). I recently found someone selling the same table unfinished as well, so I will try to tell a friend to get it to maybe dye it this time.
I’m getting ready to do a birch butcher block for my center island in my kitchen your work is amazing I really enjoyed your video and I will post some pictures of my finished product I’m so glad I found you !
Why my island piece turned out great have a few brush marks in it but Once the finish dries I’m going to polish it I don’t know how to post pictures on here
This was a great video! I remember: 1. The Trustworthy Cat 2. The Red Suspenders 3. Fight club Totally make this video! Oh yeah-you completed project is phenomenal!
I would recommend using pre-stain wood conditioner. Mainly for softer woods like pine, maple, or birch. It gives a more clean even color and prevents any blotches. Your end results look great but stretch out that stain. Only need a little bit. Just looks like your wiping off a lot of stain you could have spread further
love the tip about feathering, and shining a light.I already know to put brushes in sealed bag and if I am using later for touch up, I keep water based in the freezer ready to go.
Now I see what my problem is with woodworking. A lack of black, furry assistants! This is good, basic advice that is delivered in a clear, concise way. After watching this a couple of times, I think I could probably attempt this. I like the idea of having brushes that are designated for different tasks. Another piece of basic advice that seems obvious, but is often overlooked. Thank you for this tutorial. That's a lot of good advice in only 7 minutes (plus cats!)
good explanation. helped with my raising desk top I got for a rising desk frame I bought. I colored mine walnut. but I am using a 2 in one stain and coat. but yeah you definitely need to use sandpaper to get the brush strokes out of it.
Not being nasty but an osalating sander osolates, just step your grit down and finale sponge 320 grit. PS. Look under any high end table, the bottom isn't finished. Sanding sealer after stain which raises the grain. Final finish will be smooth as ice. Nice vid keep em coming, your in a rewarding trade 👍
The stain appears blotchy because different sections of the wood absorb more or less stain. The cure for this is applying a coat of wood conditioner after the initial sanding. This enables the wood to absorb the stain at the same rate and quantity throughout the entire surface.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
Ok..I stained a table but skipped the wipe off part...it's been 3 days. It's a bit sticky. What did you use to wipe the stain off?? Is it too late to wipe?? Yikes!!
Hello and thanks for this video. I will be following this process shortly. I’m assuming these products have a pretty strong smell. What protective/safety gear should I use? Thanks!
Very informative and relaxing video 😌 Do you have alternative to polyurethane? It gives a "plastic feeling" to the wood and I want to avoid it if possible
I wouldn’t recommend doing multiple coats with that stain, you control the darkness by how much you wipe away. The stain is more like thinned paint than a traditional stain
Very nice result. Just wonder how long did you take to complete the whole process of the work? I am about to DIY my balustrade but have to estimate the schedule. Thank you!
Great video! Thanks! Two questions: 1. Did you only poly coat the top and sides?; 2. What did you use to clean after sanding between coats? Mineral spirits?
2.) With a water based Poly you can clean the brush with dish soap and water. I tried mineral spirits but had issues getting all the excess out. 1.) For poly coat you generally only need one coat on the under side to protect the wood because it wont be impacted day to day like the top , on the top side and sides you should do as many as you like till you get the smoothness you desire. With fast drying water based poly I had to do several coats to the top of my desk 6-8. Don't use a powered sander in-between poly coats it will take off too much and you will just wipe away the work you did. Would recommend for first sand though to cut time, be careful with a round sander as it left divots in my desk I later had to fix as you might apply pressure to one side or the other, you want to be light and not apply a lot of pressure while doing it. A square sander was much better. If you want the best finish I found on RUclips to use sandpaper by hand in-between coats lightly to take off any lumps or roughness 400 grit is what I used. I did use mineral spirits with my shop cloth to remove sand dust and debris just be sure to wait till that dry's before applying the next layer.
@@cbprojects9389 Let me ask you, So i did sand my top with SQUARE SANDER 360 GRIT. It was smooth, after i applied stain and it dried over night wood became "hard" ( dont know the eng word ) like i never sanded it in the first place, i guess its because water in the stain pulled all wood "hairs" up. Should i put layer of poly and sand with SQUARE 500 GRIT everything just to make it smooth. Its rough at the moment
@@siiNke that’s called raising the grain. It can be an issue with water based stains and polyurethanes because it soaks in and raises the grain in some woods, causing it to feel rough. It’s probably best to sand it smooth before applying any of the polyurethane. I’m sure your project is probably already finished by now, but figured I’d reply in case anyone else reads this.
Great video! QUESTION- I am re-finishing about 40 wood tables for my restaurant. Can you recommend a finish that will hold up the best to constant moisture/heat and won’t get sticky?!?
I’ve heard that with light colored wood (I’m working with a birch ikea kitchen countertop) it’s best to use wood conditioner and sanding sealer before staining to avoid blotchiness. I noticed you didn’t do this for the table - Do you think that’s necessary for specific types of wood? Thanks for the step by step video and links to products! This how to video is definitely the best I’ve seen so far
Using wood conditioner is definitely important with light colored woods, especially BIRCH and Pine, which are notorious for getting blotchy without that step. I do a GENEROUS application of wood conditioner to ensure every square inch of the wood has been penetrated equally, then wait for it to dry. The wood conditioner will cause the grain to raise, so you will need to sand lightly with 220 grit after it has dried, BEFORE you stain. I have never had problems with blotchiness if the wood conditioner is applied correctly. Sanding sealer isn't necessary if the wood conditioner is applied evenly and allowed to penetrate deep into the cellulose layers of the wood....but you can use it if you're still concerned. I would practice the entire process on the bottom side of the countertop first and you'll get a good idea if you need the sanding sealer or not.
How long did you let the stain dry on the bottom before flipping and doing the top? Also when you did your poly, did you do all 3 coats on the bottom first then flip after drying and do the top?
Nothing is stopping you, but you will damage the wood over time. Skin oils, dents, glass/mug rings etc etc. Best to use a rub on oil finish at a minimum. Ikea even sells one.
Welp, it looks like mine is going to stay dark, LOL. The video I saw didn't tell me to immediately wipe away the stain, so I let it stay. I can still work with it but, I wish I'd known that.
Your video is amazing, I am about to start staining our dinner table and found this and helped me prepare! I read that towels/rags can spontaneously combust used in staining, I was planning. To use shop towels like you do to wipe off the stain, and wondering how you safely dispose of them?
Links to products used in this video: ⬇️
Random orbit sander: amzn.to/3fhd1Rt
Sanding:
320 grit Sponge: amzn.to/3e4BQ3q
120 grit Sponge: amzn.to/3e462vH
320 Grit for Sander: amzn.to/3e7LemN
120 Grit for Sander: amzn.to/3gdWQY5
320 Grit Sheet: amzn.to/3x7UEYv
120 Grit Sheet: amzn.to/3wYc5KF
Dark Walnut wood stain: amzn.to/35p8mIU
Dark Walnut stain (Alternative choice): amzn.to/3soNps5
Varathane Water Based Polyurethane Wood Finish (from most reflective to least reflective)
1. Gloss (Used in the video) : amzn.to/2Zn5SbP
2. Semi-Gloss: amzn.to/3uNn2Nk
3. Satin: amzn.to/3dk7kmT
4. Matte: amzn.to/3mPSBmZ
Foam brush: amzn.to/2WswbLY
Paint Brush, 2-1/2 inch: amzn.to/2NyQiXJ
Tack Cloth: amzn.to/3qnPdkk
Countertop Brush: amzn.to/35JxafI
Gerton: www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-t...
Support this channel on Patreon!
www.patreon.com/amircreator
Follow me on Instagram:
instagram.com/a.mircreator/
Production:
Main Camera: amzn.to/3aujLtW
Lens 1: amzn.to/3rhnjX2
Lens 2: amzn.to/3rcJ8qT
Backup Camera and lens: amzn.to/2RF5V24
Disclaimer: Some of these links lead to products and tools used in the video. If you click, or buy something there, I get a small commission, but it doesn't change the price for you. If you would like to support me, have a look.
So after 3rd coot you don't use sand paper?
@@Ahmedpakido no after the final coat is done you let it cure. the sanding is just for adhesion of the layers and removing bumps
@@A.Mere.Creator got it thankd
I am an expert in wood staining
A couple helpful suggestions. After your final sanding, before stain, wipe the surface with a rag or paper towel wetted with mineral spirits. This will remove all the sawdust and will evaporate in just a few minutes. After your final finish coat, rub the surface with a smooth piece of a brown paper bag. It's like 6000 grit sandpaper. You will be amazed at the difference you can feel.
How long after the final finish coat, do you rub the surface with a smooth piece of a brown paper bag?
@@thomasspool Wait until you are sure it dry, hard. I use the brown paper after any finish, even paint.
Thank you! Really appreciate you responding so quickly.
@@thomasspool Let me know what you think if the results. It's not going to turn white like it does when you sand a top coat, it just smooths out to the feel.
I have two projects going right now, a desk and a bench; both of which are pine. The bench is ready for a finish but I’ve been spending a lot of time here and there researching the best way to darken the pine while not ruining it… At the moment, I’m looking at a pre conditioner of sorts, a day later, a quick 1-2 minute soak of stain similiar to the video above, and than 24-48 hours later a clear lacquer. Then the 6000 grit brown bag a day or two after that dries. Any thoughts or tips or precautions on this- specifically with pine?
This tutorial was great!! I have never finished wood before and I was seriously starting to regret buying unfinished furniture. Your instructions are clear and the music definitely helped me chill out and realize I can definitely do this. Thank you!!
Instead of using a paintbrush, I used the head of a swiffer sweeper that is about 16" X 4" and doubled up a 16" X 16" micro fiber towel instead of the swiffer sweeper pads. For wider projects than mine I have seen microfiber towels up to 24" X 24", or you could get a much larger piece of cloth from a fabric store. Then build your own base to put it on. You can probably use any type of finish you like. I used an oil base top coat over a previously stained wood. I imagine you can do this with stain as well. However I didn't come up with the idea until after I had already done my staining. I poured my top coat directly onto my double layered microfiber towel on the swiffer head and onto another folded over microfiber towel. First I used the 2nd folded towel to apply my top coat to my rounded over edges, overlapping the flat side a little bit, then used the microfiber towel on the swiffer head to go over the flat side. I had almost enough top coat in my microfibre towel to cover a 10' X 11" shelf on both sides. I could tell I was running out of top coat when I got near the end of the 2nd side. I added more top coat to my microfibre and went over that side a second time. The 2 benefits that I could see to this method are 1st and most obvious is that there are no overlapping brush strokes, and 2nd, it is a lot faster because you're only making one pass. I was able to ring out most of the top coat from the towels back into the can, leaving very little waste.
Fellow Austinite, has a cat, and helped me make my table - you sir have earned a sub!
Light, voice, music, movements and cat are ONE🧡
best tutorial on youtube for sealing. I just installed butcher block counter tops and used this method they turned out awesome
Just bought a butcherblock to create a standing work table. The video is very easy to follow & understand. Can't wait to get started. Cheers !!
Thanks for a great video. You covered all I wanted for a 1st time DYer. No wasted time,. You fast forwareded repeat steps while you gave a voice over. Excellent use of time.
Here's a tip I used and it worked wonders. I ran out of shop rags and had a lint roller in my truck. It picks up everything!
This was super helpful and probably one of the best explanations for applying stain and a polycoat!
Using a conditioner for that type of wood would have achieved much better results i.e. no blotchiness (look carefully at his table). Its better to not do it in stages because you will over lap and create lines (not noticeable usually to the untrained eye). To do it in one go its better to use a rag, its also faster and achieves a cleaner looking end piece.
I used my table as is for more than a year, bacause I moved to a room and ordered all the furniture, and my friends mounted all the ikea stuff, then when I got into my room, I realized the table wasn't finished, but I didn't know how to do it so I just used it. Then I went back to my house after that time and got sent the table and used your video as a guide, so it helped me a lot (except I didn't dye it, because I wanted it to look whiter).
I recently found someone selling the same table unfinished as well, so I will try to tell a friend to get it to maybe dye it this time.
Thank you so much man, I followed every step and my butcher block looks amazing! Youre the best!
I watched so many videos about it as I am planning to build a desk and this is THE VIDEO! Great job, thanks!
I’m getting ready to do a birch butcher block for my center island in my kitchen your work is amazing I really enjoyed your video and I will post some pictures of my finished product I’m so glad I found you !
Why my island piece turned out great have a few brush marks in it but Once the finish dries I’m going to polish it I don’t know how to post pictures on here
this was super helpful and I definitely appreciated the sweet guest star appearance around 26 seconds!
This was a great video! I remember:
1. The Trustworthy Cat
2. The Red Suspenders
3. Fight club
Totally make this video! Oh yeah-you completed project is phenomenal!
I would recommend using pre-stain wood conditioner. Mainly for softer woods like pine, maple, or birch. It gives a more clean even color and prevents any blotches. Your end results look great but stretch out that stain. Only need a little bit. Just looks like your wiping off a lot of stain you could have spread further
Chill Music: Check
Cat Cameo: Check
Awesome angles: Check
Relaxation: BIG Check!
Awesome Video, Amir!
love the tip about feathering, and shining a light.I already know to put brushes in sealed bag and if I am using later for touch up, I keep water based in the freezer ready to go.
howd that work? i clean them in between coats...
The table came out amazing! Lol and your kitty is soo cute!
I confess I clicked like button once I saw the cat! lol
Wonderful video. Great and easy video to watch. The table came out so beautiful!!
Now I see what my problem is with woodworking. A lack of black, furry assistants!
This is good, basic advice that is delivered in a clear, concise way. After watching this a couple of times, I think I could probably attempt this.
I like the idea of having brushes that are designated for different tasks. Another piece of basic advice that seems obvious, but is often overlooked.
Thank you for this tutorial. That's a lot of good advice in only 7 minutes (plus cats!)
Amir your content is so relaxing
good explanation. helped with my raising desk top I got for a rising desk frame I bought. I colored mine walnut. but I am using a 2 in one stain and coat. but yeah you definitely need to use sandpaper to get the brush strokes out of it.
Nahh youre a professional.. that outcome was allllaatt! (All that) 🥴🤪🔥
Not being nasty but an osalating sander osolates, just step your grit down and finale sponge 320 grit. PS. Look under any high end table, the bottom isn't finished. Sanding sealer after stain which raises the grain. Final finish will be smooth as ice. Nice vid keep em coming, your in a rewarding trade
👍
So I should sand again after the first layer of sealer after the stain is done ?
@@Jcslim138 yes
Beautifully done. I would say that your end grain needs sanding to close it up a bit and avoid the "dark ends". Great video.
Very thorough, I found that some of the best stain is the stuff the last guy left laying around. Ikea,..... c,mon.
Great editing!
Why there is always a shrek at the end of your videos? 😂
Beautiful work, as always 😌
Just made my own table thanks to your tutorial. Thank you!
Great job. Good editing, clear instructions and a useful item list! :)
I learned how to wash and store brushes. It helped me a lot and i am thankful.
I’m here for the cat 🖤 just kidding🤣 this turned out beautiful
i have two cats. im gonna take this tutorial as a sign.:)
0:27 instantly subscribed 😂
Looks Fab bro!!! I guess the stain adds some nice dark and highlights to the surface!!!
This was incredibly satisfying to watch! Thanks for sharing!
The stain appears blotchy because different sections of the wood absorb more or less stain. The cure for this is applying a coat of wood conditioner after the initial sanding. This enables the wood to absorb the stain at the same rate and quantity throughout the entire surface.
Blotchy?
How do you do the bottom? Do you wait for the top to dry? And did you put the polyurethane on the bottom too?
Yeah I’m assuming you can do that
Nice tutorial. I strongly suggest to use a wood conditioner before applying any stain. You'll get better results. :)
This video helped me finish my acacia butcher block. Ty
I need this now for my dinning table. Thank you for ur wanderfu tips. God bless and keep safe
Lol when talking about sandpaper it's "grit" not "grain" made me giggle lol it turned out gorgeous
Wassup my dude..love ur vids...keep it up...would love to see a setup tour . Hope you and your loved ones are safe
I finished mine the exact same way! This video would’ve been so helpful when I was working on mine
Hi!
Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer.
The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer.
But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
That cat was just chillin.
Beautiful job.
Woodworking is a fine art.
GREAT video! Well illustrated and good step by step directions!
That’s a really nice finish
Just a suggestion.
on surfaces that big use a 6" paint pad.
Saves a lot of time
Really nice work man.
Whoa that looks incredible!
Brilliant Amir, fantastic work.
Ok..I stained a table but skipped the wipe off part...it's been 3 days. It's a bit sticky. What did you use to wipe the stain off?? Is it too late to wipe?? Yikes!!
I really appreciate you doing this very helpful and informative video.
Hello and thanks for this video. I will be following this process shortly. I’m assuming these products have a pretty strong smell. What protective/safety gear should I use? Thanks!
Very informative and relaxing video 😌
Do you have alternative to polyurethane? It gives a "plastic feeling" to the wood and I want to avoid it if possible
Does leaving the stain on longer, give it a darker color? Or do you just have to do more wipes and coats?
I wouldn’t recommend doing multiple coats with that stain, you control the darkness by how much you wipe away. The stain is more like thinned paint than a traditional stain
@@A.Mere.Creator answered my question. i want mine a bt darker. great video
Table turned out fire 🔥
the music really makes the video!!
Like your video and your background music! Can this be done on an outside gazebo deck?
That looks great man, I came for the staining tutorial but I stayed for the cat lol. Did you only use one coat of the stain?
more power sir sana mas marami pa kayong mashare na kaalaman sa amin po
Can I apply water based poly over a top that has been oiled?
Really you made it simple. Great job!!!
Very nice result.
Just wonder how long did you take to complete the whole process of the work?
I am about to DIY my balustrade but have to estimate the schedule.
Thank you!
How can you sand with the grain with a orbital sander since it sands in a circular motion?
Cool video! Did you sand it between the second and third coat? thanks
Great video! Thanks! Two questions: 1. Did you only poly coat the top and sides?; 2. What did you use to clean after sanding between coats? Mineral spirits?
2.) With a water based Poly you can clean the brush with dish soap and water. I tried mineral spirits but had issues getting all the excess out.
1.) For poly coat you generally only need one coat on the under side to protect the wood because it wont be impacted day to day like the top , on the top side and sides you should do as many as you like till you get the smoothness you desire. With fast drying water based poly I had to do several coats to the top of my desk 6-8.
Don't use a powered sander in-between poly coats it will take off too much and you will just wipe away the work you did. Would recommend for first sand though to cut time, be careful with a round sander as it left divots in my desk I later had to fix as you might apply pressure to one side or the other, you want to be light and not apply a lot of pressure while doing it. A square sander was much better. If you want the best finish I found on RUclips to use sandpaper by hand in-between coats lightly to take off any lumps or roughness 400 grit is what I used. I did use mineral spirits with my shop cloth to remove sand dust and debris just be sure to wait till that dry's before applying the next layer.
@@cbprojects9389 Let me ask you, So i did sand my top with SQUARE SANDER 360 GRIT. It was smooth, after i applied stain and it dried over night wood became "hard" ( dont know the eng word ) like i never sanded it in the first place, i guess its because water in the stain pulled all wood "hairs" up. Should i put layer of poly and sand with SQUARE 500 GRIT everything just to make it smooth. Its rough at the moment
@@siiNke that’s called raising the grain. It can be an issue with water based stains and polyurethanes because it soaks in and raises the grain in some woods, causing it to feel rough. It’s probably best to sand it smooth before applying any of the polyurethane. I’m sure your project is probably already finished by now, but figured I’d reply in case anyone else reads this.
awesome tutorial dude! keep up the great content!
Great video! QUESTION- I am re-finishing about 40 wood tables for my restaurant. Can you recommend a finish that will hold up the best to constant moisture/heat and won’t get sticky?!?
Epoxy
I’ve heard that with light colored wood (I’m working with a birch ikea kitchen countertop) it’s best to use wood conditioner and sanding sealer before staining to avoid blotchiness. I noticed you didn’t do this for the table - Do you think that’s necessary for specific types of wood?
Thanks for the step by step video and links to products! This how to video is definitely the best I’ve seen so far
Using wood conditioner is definitely important with light colored woods, especially BIRCH and Pine, which are notorious for getting blotchy without that step. I do a GENEROUS application of wood conditioner to ensure every square inch of the wood has been penetrated equally, then wait for it to dry. The wood conditioner will cause the grain to raise, so you will need to sand lightly with 220 grit after it has dried, BEFORE you stain. I have never had problems with blotchiness if the wood conditioner is applied correctly. Sanding sealer isn't necessary if the wood conditioner is applied evenly and allowed to penetrate deep into the cellulose layers of the wood....but you can use it if you're still concerned. I would practice the entire process on the bottom side of the countertop first and you'll get a good idea if you need the sanding sealer or not.
@@CALB2009 how many layers of conditioner do tou apply?
@@tarcisiorodriguez5602 1
Exactly what I was searching for. Thanks a lot 😁
Excellent video man! Finishing my desktop tonight.
Never go against the grain, proceeds to go against the grain along the end 🙈🙈
Did you apply the poly coat to the underside as well?
Yes, he said he did. He said to start with the underside so you can perfect your technique before doing the upper side.
thanks for your good advice. cheers NZ
Beautiful, and very helpful, kitty.
How long did you let the stain dry on the bottom before flipping and doing the top?
Also when you did your poly, did you do all 3 coats on the bottom first then flip after drying and do the top?
Hi could I ask if this works on outdoor furniture too ? Thanks 👍
Is this tutorial good for pine wood as well?
Super cool 👍🏼👍🏼
Super professional, great job,
Many thanks 🙏🏼
Super chill vid lol
Do you use the same grit sandpaper to sand between poly coats?
Is it ok to use this desk without any sort of coating, meaning, just get it out the box, assemble and use straight away?
Nothing is stopping you, but you will damage the wood over time. Skin oils, dents, glass/mug rings etc etc. Best to use a rub on oil finish at a minimum. Ikea even sells one.
The result is so beautiful!
Nice work!! Thanks for sharing
All your works are really amazing and it's very perfect 🤩👏👏👏
If you're using an orbital sander, wouldn't half that sander be going against the grain?
Great video.
Would this work on pine wood?
Welp, it looks like mine is going to stay dark, LOL. The video I saw didn't tell me to immediately wipe away the stain, so I let it stay. I can still work with it but, I wish I'd known that.
Excellent and relaxing. Nice job! How many people would you say this table sits?
Great tips! Thank you!
I subscribed your channel because you have 99.9k subscriber I wish your channel got 100k sub.
Loved your audio. I got a kick out of “brush management”. Corporate America lingo coming to woodworking. LOL
the anxiety attack you gave me at 0:59 😅 i was like this man about to saw his wrist open !!! 😭🕊️
Your video is amazing, I am about to start staining our dinner table and found this and helped me prepare!
I read that towels/rags can spontaneously combust used in staining, I was planning. To use shop towels like you do to wipe off the stain, and wondering how you safely dispose of them?
just lay them out to dry completely