Trying to Bring a Non Running Backhoe to Life- Can it be Fixed?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Who says I can't just make this up as I go? First time getting this deep into a diesel engine. Tearing down the engine and trying to figure out why this old abandoned backhoe wont start. Hope you enjoy the video!
Go Tell Clint from C&C Equipment thanks and be sure to subscribe to his channel!
/ @c_cequipment
Here is the progress playlist for this backhoe!
Be sure to follow our other social media to see more progress photos of our projects.
Facebook:
/ captainkleeman
Instagram:
/ con. .
TikTok:
vm.tiktok.com/...
DISCLAIMER'. this is not a how to video and I am not responsible for any actions you take on your equipment or property
Abandoned Backhoe Hasn't Run for Years - Will it Start?
#captainkleeman
#backhoe
#willitrun
Gettin in deep there bud😁
I’d spend a few more seconds honing cylinders but slow drill speed down and use lots of wd40
I normally have someone spray wide open at same time of honing
Wire wheel the top of pistons and should be a part number for piston and maybe that will lead you towards the right rings?
I assume you have already but make sure it’s not been bored out already it will be stamped on top of pistons also
Std. = stock
.20 .30 etc is overbores
Good luck hopefully you don’t hate me 😁😂🤦♂️lol
Hahaha, hate you? How could I possibly hate you. It's the finest flower planter I've ever owned! 😂😂 definitely appreciate all the help and answering all the messages. 💪
@@CaptainKleeman lol I hope everything else works on it for you
Maybe Clint can send someone to do all the work while you hold the camera. That will speed things up a bit. Enjoy watching. Thx
We can probably all agree that C&C is your most reliable comment. I’ll agree that more honing in the cylinders wouldn’t hurt. Your roto-plunger 6k action is good and will get you a good cross hatch. Those rod bearings are probably a clue to that having been apart, and while they look good, I’d either check with a micrometer or plasti-gauge to see what the clearance is on them. This far in be good to know if the crank has been turned down, the bearings you have may be the wrong size if it has. Keep at it, you’re doing a fine job!
Could those scratches be from excessive end play in the crank since they all in line.
The backkhoe is yours and will never leave your property. If you put you invest your money and time the education you are creating is priceless. Thanks for taking us on the journey. I wish I had a chance .
Definitely appreciate the support
I messed up on my earlier comment the engine looks like the same engine I have in a 1964 Ford tractor 2000 series
Hone the heck out of the cylinders. Your not going to take out to much material. You want the cylinders as clean as possible for the new rings. Remember that you will have to fit the rings to the cylinder before you put them on the pistons. Keep up the good work.
A backhoe no matter how old is an invaluable tool for the farm. It is ABSOLUTELY worth putting money into.
Love how you're not afraid of trying something new.
💪
Keep chipping away at it. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching
Good video Captain. Loved your explanation of it bouncing off trees and into the river. The pinball backhoe. 🤣 Thank you.
Captain try and get a large enough container of rust converter to dip the entire backhoe in. Lol God bless
😂😂😂
Michael I applaud your tenacity. As well as your patience. I figure we’re going to hear this beast purring pretty soon.
Cap’n I gotcha covered… my first engine rebuild was on a ‘63 Chevy small block V-8. It was done in the middle of August on 100degree days under a tree that shaded it only in the morning.
I worked on it during the day and being only 18 yrs old… kinda rushed it. My dad helped me quite a bit when I tore it down, honed the cylinders, ground the valves, etc. But, when it came time to assemble the pistons, he was out of town.
So, I called my mechanic buddy (who was also 18) for advice. He described how to install the rings, rod bearings… and loaned me a ring compressor.
I carefully installed the rings, offset their gap, pushed them into the cylinder and commenced to install the rod bearings. That’s where it went off track.
In those days, cattle feed came in 100lb and 50lb sacks. Because we had a dairy farm, I handled a lot of them.
After I got the engine all buttoned up, oil in it and the starter installed… I hit the ignition switch…and, the starter strained and clicked then, strained and clicked some more…. finally it got so hot that it blew the fuse. That’s when I got out the big wrench and commenced to turning the crank a few times ‘to loosen it up’.
So, I called my buddy up and asked him to come out and take a look. He started asking me questions about what steps I had gone through… then he asked me how tight I had torqued the piston rod bearings. I assured him that they were ‘plenty tight’. At which point… he mentioned a torque wrench.
You know Cap’n I believe that was the first time I had ever heard of such a thing…. As it turned out, knowing the difference between the weight of a 100lb and a 50lb sack of cattle feed is not close enough for rod bearing bolts. They require a much more discriminating measure.
The result? A couple of rod bearings seized on the crank shaft and scored the piston rod ends and caps. The remainder seized in the rod ends and galled the crank shaft.
The cost of the overhaul doubled… just because a farm boys experience toting feed sacks doesn’t translate to a mechanics use of a torque wrench!
Fortunately for you, there is no hot August sun to cause you to hurry… so you can take the time to read the manual. And, toting fire hoses might translate torque feel a lot better. I don’t know… but iffen you can get ahold of one of those fancy toque wrenches you won’t have to guess!
PS: no ridge in the top of the cylinder walls. You have a lot of wear available in that block. It can’t have too many hours on it.
What vehicle was it?
@@BWYinYang Bel Air, 4 door sedan
Just a thought Mike. If you add a rubber mat to the battery tray, make sure you have drainage or there's a risk that water will be trapped under the mat and that's no bueno. :)
Brings back memories (from the 60's) as a teenager working in my Dad's automotive repair shop. Thanks for all your effort in putting the video together.
Mike, we love your sense of humor and your free advice. I am going to my auto parts store and signing up for their 'stick leasing program' to save money when I remove gunk form engines. Thanks for the money and time saving tip. Keep the great videos coming as you have time to edit and upload your adventures.
Lol thanks for watching Bill
'Stick' - sometimes they are the most useful tool - wonder what a used one would be worth! Admire your determination to have a go at 'fixing' the backhoe.
Very handy
A fella is learning and doing his best 👍🏼
A 24hr soak in a 5 gal bucket of Evapo Rust goes along way Mike.👍👍👍👍And saves time. Google the engine stamp numbers to see what it is. ----->Keep in mind. When pulling out the connecter rods and pulling them back onto the crank put cut pieces of hose over the studs first. Cause the treads will nick the very soft crank journals. Making the bearings lock into the nicks after you torque down the nuts. Locking up the engine or they chew up your bearings.
Good tip, thanks mike
Nice work, Mike. I absolutely love your sense of humor - buy/lease a stick. I also appreciate your willingness to try new things and bring us along. By the way, the piston was coming out as you tapped it with your piece of wood.
Thanks Roy
Mike this adventure is refreshing and educational and very informative. The hoses and the unknown engine situation would scare a lot of green tractor buyers away. Get the engine block and head casting numbers it should tell you what engine it is. Almost like a mix of a gasoline and diesel piston components?
I have no doubt you'll get it running. Those engines aren't that complicated and you're not afraid to get dirty. Glad to see you got the head checked and did the valves. No sense doing it again next year.
Thank you For showing the breaker bar extension very cool tool
Anytime!
That’s how I learned. Started out in my dad and grandpa’s shop when I was 12. You are learning stuff that can’t be taught in a classroom and will last you the rest of your life. You have in my opinion 3 of the best people to go to for help, Clint, Kevin and Mike. Stay with it and hi from Texas
Watching this one again. Last time I watched it, I didn’t have a ran when parked John Deere 310 (1971). Now my perspective is different.
You are making good progress, can't wait to hear that engine fire up.
Clean everything before you put it together so its all beautiful an clean well thats how i have done it but up to you and when you grind valves you twist lift twist lift twist hope it runs like a dream for you good luck
Back in the early 90's in Clayton Cat, we engineers had to assemble our designs the first time. First hand experience fixing your crap sure resolved a lot of assembly problems for me. Great video, Mike.
Wish they still did that
A little trade secret , clean the cylinder walls with atf , using folded paper towels , the first couple swipes will come out black , clean new paper towels wipe again until clean , maybe clean one the best way you know how , then show the viewers , let's try the aft , and you will be impressed.
I've used more atf on this thing then I have in actual transmissions 😂
Love your thought process. Thanks for taking us along. Today is 11/5 got my tee shirt today. Thanks.
The 555 is a good machine , I agree with Clint , he's a pro .... I would spend a little more time on the cylinder hone . Make the walls smooth and clean out some of that surface imperfection and she will probably run long enough to pass down to your kids .
That is quite a job for a rookie. Keep asking questions and you will be fine. Remember to keep everything in the engine as clean as possible. I remember my first engine teardown and rebuild. The best way to learn something is to do it.
Your first time is always the best. Never worked on heavy equipment engines, but I know that removing the block from a car makes pulling pistons a lot easier.
Man that wire sleeve looks like a dang gone snake! I would watch out. Great video thanks for bringing us alone Captain.
If you want, I’ll tell you when the hoses will blow. Friday evening when you have a huge project planned for the weekend. And the next hose will blow 2hrs after you fix it.
Hahaha and when I'm on a deadline!
Mike, I was watching Chris @ Letsdig18 when he got Betty back, his comment was, it's his waste of time and money. In the same comment I also pointed that Mike at DP has his 120 and Jerry over at DC has Christina. Like you say your enjoying working on your Triple Nickel which you'll keep and don't forget your learning all the time, so it's a triple bonus. I'm just a little jealous, as I don't have the space for yours or any of the for mentioned pieces of kit. My joy is my wife's great uncles old workshop vice, which I have been rebuilding, it's all I have space for. Just to let you know my technical item of choice is a length of bamboo, I find that unlike the Auto Part Stick, its more flexible. 🤗
I couldnt afford the bamboo model 😂
Mike, I have a couple of viewer suggestions: I have found that with old wiring, it is worth buying a spool of wire, and replacing everything you can. Yes, there is a cost, but it is worth it not to be chasing future wiring gremlins. Second, I bought hydraulic line in bulk (100' lengths) and the reusable, field applying fittings. This has saved me a fortune over having the lines made. They are always the prefect length, are made almost instantly, and are way cheaper. Short of buying a hydraulic line swage machine, I think this is next best option.
Really enjoying this Mike. One thing I remember from my mispent youth is when you install the pistons if you put a 4 or 5 inch piece of hose on the rod bolts it will protect the crank and help align the rod end.
Thanks for the tip
Yea nice to see that you are dressing up so.e stuff with paint
💪
I am so cheering for you to get this running. You could even sneak in an extra video of you cleaning parts or washing the years of grime off.
Well this journey is definitely getting interesting truly enjoy you taking us along with you. Stay safe
Thanks Bruce
Agree with Clint hone the cylinder more transmission oil works wonders to clean the cylinder up. While it is apart and you can clean top of the block of the old head gasket. and not have to worry about getting in places you don't want it to. Also they have a nice gasket removing pad for this makes short works of it.
Thanks for the tip John
I'm guessing it's already been said. Keep it all as clean as possible(don't forget the oil pick up pipe) and lube any moving parts as you go when putting back together so on start up there is no metal on metal action. What a rewarding job though and from my end a pleasure to watch.👍
I think your best bet is listening to C&C, keep doing what your doing, your having fun and you will bring that thing back for it's second or third life. You'll get your money back, and best of all your learning. Keep on keepin on. Love to watch you go at it. Thanks, Captain !
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
It's like eating an elephant Cap, just one bite at a time. Have fun.
Hang in there. Check the oil pump out if you have time. Good luck
Thanks Eric
Well you are doing your first in frame rebuild. Make sure to pull the oil suction screen and clean it. Doesn't make any sense to do all this and not to. Also, remember the recess in the top of the pistons goes away from the oil filter. Also there should be a mark on the rod caps that indicates which way they go on the rods. You might want to consider pressure washing it before you start to reassemble. You are at a good place to do this and will have a cleaner assembly if you do. Good job so far, just take your time. It will be well worth it when you are done.
In for a penny, in for pound! DIY is the huge cost saver. Even if the block had to come out, and you have to replace the hydraulic pump and all hoses. Once the 555 fires back up, you’ll likely still be way cheaper than any equivalent “running” backhoe you could find on the interwebs. You got this! Thanks for sharing Cap!
Thanks for the support
great progress ya equipment is high dollars, good investment and you know where your at
Thanks ken
Mike your going through the machine methodically I have good feelings that with a little time hopefully and my all amount of cash you will end up with a good machine for your needs :)
Scoring on the pistons might be from overheating. So if it were me, I'd check over the water pump and clean the snot out of the rad. Love seeing you dig into unfamiliar waters! Keep at it!
Definitely on the list if we get it fired up
RUclips videos are great as tutorials, but actually jumping in a doing it can be scary. I'm sure you'll get very "expert" in the world commenting on what you should and shouldn't do, but, just stay your course. You'll get there! And, what a great sense of accomplishment you'll feel when it starts for the first time. Great job Mike! Why am I so proud of you?? IDK, but I am!!
Appreciate the support!
Thanks for sharing all your ups and downs. I don.t think I would. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching
FYI wit rust... after cleaning loose rust off and wire brushing, apply phosphoric acid(sometimes referred to as Naval Jelly) to it and let dry. It turns any rust left into iron oxide, which will not continue to corrode under the new paint...
You're doing a great job so far!
thumbs up but iron oxide to iron (II) phoshate..which doesn't expand in volume compared to iron like iron (II) oxide does. i knew what you meant tho.
If you got the time, it's worth your effort. Keep up the good work. C&C is giving you some great advice. They know thir business.
Always fun watching your videos and commentary. I got myself a Purdy 550 and have a phantom battery drain. Couldn’t find video where you added your master switch? But I notice you engaging it
For future reference Captain. When installing the little keepers use a little dab of greeze to hold them in place.
Not so critical on keepers that big but definitely helpful.
Thanks Wayne
Little tip.., oil the valve guides as you fit the valves into the head
Agkits has a 201 piston ring set, states "works for both 3 and 4 ring pistons. (3 Ring Pistons - You will have an extra compression ring left over)"
Won't work with these pistons
Mike, Just an FYI......The oil pan is cast because it's part of the frame. Someone may have already said this but that's what I believe is the case.
Right now, the only thing that would scare me about it is the unknowns of the main hydraulic pump, not so much the hydraulic cylinder ram seals (though that is a concern too).
Definitely a concern
I take my hat off to you Mike, you are not afraid to pull the 555 apart and find out how it works !!!
When I left school I worked for a coachbuilders, did so well at that they put me vehicle electrics... I told them I didn't and still don't have the patience to work with any electrics, never mind fixing other people's mess..... 😬
I'm sure there are plenty of well qualified and experienced people out there to give you advice, all I can offer is a shed load of respect Sir ! 👍💪👏
Thanks for the support Alex
Mike make sure to wipe the cylinders down with ATF to halt flash rusting and it helps with installing pistons. Also make sure to either change the oil pump and pickup screen or at the least clean it very well to get the sludge out from sitting in water and oil.
Yup! I had them soaking in ATF and gave them a rub down before covering. Thanks for watching!
Mike, anytime you have an engine apart, always replace bearings..especially rod bearings. Before all the computerized crap, I loved building engines. Best of luck and have fun.
And mike you got to get the grove out of cyclenders or it could wreck the rings get a downer to clean them up hif they are deep need to get it cut down to 30 over at lease
Maybe you have a one of a kind!😳 Keep on tinkering, lots to do, and the light at the end of the tunnel will show up soon. I have faith in you. But that leads me to a story back when I was in the service. We had a C-130 in Germany numbered 555, and it was the pig of the fleet🥴 Just you saying triple nickel brought back memories. But nothing we couldn’t handle💪💪 and thank you for the flash back, good times for sure with my brothers and sisters 🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Very cool story sir!
Doing good Mike . When building engines dont do it dry use some sort of Lube even when you lapped the valves . When i rebuilt engines i always used oil when rebuilding even in the bores. it will all burn off when you start the engine . But for your first time i am well impressed
Fix it up and keep it as a heirloom. The metal rot can be fixed in time. This is a great chance to hone and improve your skills .
💪
I remember those days !! Your doing great CPT. That engine looks fine and should last you a long time. Can't waite to here it run 👍👍👍👍
Thanks mark
I was going to comment but Clint said it all he knows what going on just by watching you it’s a great project Captain 👍👋🇨🇦
Southeast Indiana where it’s either raining, just quit raining, or ‘bout ta rain 😆
Looking good.
Thanks
I admire your tenasity of working on the engine without any experience or training. I have 2 years of automotive mechanic schooling in highschool BOCES and 2 years in a state college (non degree) auto motive course and have been employed as a auto/heavy duty mechanic for the last 50 years The information available on the internet is invaluable. There is some jerks out there who give advice, but most people are worth listening to. On your engine as far as you have shown us I agree with you just go for it. You will NOT "resize"the cylinders with that hone just resurface them, you don't have enough run time in that drill to enlarge the bore.
Thanks for support and appreciate the info David
Lol! Love your approach to this project! Good place to be! Thank you for taking us along!
Thanks for watching
I totally agree with your reasoning. You aren’t planning to use it for anything but your personal projects. You might end up putting a few thousand dollars in this and you couldn’t buy even a junker for that. Clint did you a huge favor. Love the channel
If your in that deep you are now a full fledged mechanic, nice going Mike
Something special about seeing a machine like this get put back together. I think you will get it to work, and I am guessing they got tired of it more than it had some major problem.
Hope so!
Thanks for sharing your adventures in engine repair, interesting and entertaining. I think your doing a good compromise between fix, repair, and replace. Looking forward to seeing you running this in the future. Love your sense of humor. Wishing you and your family the best.
Mike, 20 years ago I purchased a Ford 4500 tlb and went through the entire machine just like you are about to do. I pulled the head off my machine but never got into the bottom end of the motor. I also split my machine to work on the clutch. My gut feeling on the engine is maybe this engine is from a Ford 4500 tlb . They were painted blue. A lot of the components on these machines were very similar through their production.
For rust protection I recommend POR-15. While expensive, a quart goes a LONG WAY, and lasts nearly forever.
I'll check it out, thanks for the tip
A long ways, it's incredible. Breaks down in light though. Prime and paint is required.
Hello ,
For the suction cup to stick well to the valves, you have to spit on it.....
Congrats Cap/Mike on getting the head rebuild and pulling those pistons.. great job..
Clint that one he jugged I know the new models have jugs in them
These are parent blocks, doesn't seem to have been bored out
I have done the same thing but with a JD 350 B Dozer and am really satisfied with the results ! Rock on !
Very cool
Great series on rebuilding this tractor I'll be amazed how good the thing Runs you're doing an excellent job please do more rebuilds like this great stuff 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Mike I do hope your replacing the rod bearings,and make sure all internal parts are really cleaned ,double check your work.just clean the oil pickup and make sure the internal of the block is all clean.just my opinion,looks good so far just don’t skip any steps.keep it up.good video.👍👍👍😎😎😎👨🚒👨🚒👨🚒
rod bearings look good, I never replace rod and mains just because I am there anyway {free labor} they're not really important any way. a little knockin is rockin?
Amazing that you just dive into these projects but totally worth it
💪
I have done essentially the same thing as you, tearing an engine apart and rebuilding it. Except my engine was the rear mounted engine in a Corvair. Like you I had a manual and went step by step. The engine was horizontally mounted and I never took it out of the car. This was in 1981-82 time frame. and it ran beautifully after all was done. I had never done that before, so I was quite pleased when it ran and I was finished. Drove that car from Abilene Tx. to South Carolina the following year.
Very cool!
You are doing what a lot of people want to do, have fun and enjoy.🙃🐝👍
I think you are doing an amazing job for something you've never had to tackle you'll get it done no problem
Thank you
Thats definitely called hands on experience. It will take a little bit of time but we all have faith in the fact that you will succeed. Great video Mike and you know Clint has your back.
Thanks Darryl! Clint has been awesome!
Hello Mike, great video once again bud. The leak test on the valves was a good idea, another option that i saw Mustie1 do is to color the port edges with a black marker before lapping, when the ink disappears they should be seated properly. Looking forward to the next video.
That's a good tip
We used to use a thin application of bearing blue for the valve test. Wipe off the grinding paste, add a smear of blue to the valve, drop it in and give it a spin, then lift it out and look at the contact smear.
Ah! Experience is our best teacher. Break it once and generally won't do that again, maybe. Kudos to you for taking this on....
Thanks!
Mike your doing very wel man . thanks for the video .
Thanks Leo
Mike. The ball hone isn’t going to remove more than .001” to maybe.002” at the most. Good job and maybe run the hone a little longer.
No you don't have to if the seat is good that it but if there is imperfection than you have to go with smoother, I be more worried about the valve guides not being worn if they are you waiting your money check if there is side movement in the guides. If there is get them changed that's way I wrote last time have your cilyder head checked out by machine shop normally mechanics they do that by them self because we know what to look for. Good luck
Don't forget to put new seals on to your valves.
Clint is quiet right you need to do more honing and this could possibly be a 3000 or 4000 Ford tractor engine but do your research and make sure that the Bore is right size for your ring have a great day and you’re doing a good job
agreed - honing for a minute of so would be quite safe.
Since you already have it apart and you have the bearings, best bet is to go ahead and change em. Also, for honing, slow the drill down and move fast with lots of WD40. Can't wait for the next video. 👍
You are doing better then me, my car never ran when I did what you are doing. :) Thank you and have a good week.
Lol thanks Dennis
mike and the mechanics!!!!
💪
Mike everything you do to this is a step in the right direction. And it was free, and your going to prevail and be on top. 😉😁😆😆😅
This brought back memories of helping my Dad. He would bring home a car to fix once in a while. I remember those steps don't turn anything around, make sure it is installed just like it was, before we fixed it.
Good luck with that, it will be worth the troubles when you turn the heater on, on some cold day, and wish you had a better windshield wiper ?
That's awesome! Thanks for watching
Forrest Gump once said " Life is like a Box of Chocolates......" You keep up the great work and we will watch this journey with you !!!
Im either gonna live vicariously through this video or go on a hike to find my own project. Cant wait till Sunday morning.