That is exactly why I like this video haha. He is the only one I saw so far who included peeling off the film. I kinda figured it had to be done since it would probably melt from the hot end anyways,, but I needed to be sure before committing to making a permanent change to the glass.
If the Magnetic hold down sheet is smooth and undamaged, there is no reason to remove it. The heat bed source elements had no problem heating through it for the plastic surface on a metal back, and it should not change the characteristics of operation for a glass top either. As to the fusing problem, there is none if the user remembers to remove the clamps and free the plate between prints. The heat element is on the bottom of the plate and that 'soaks' through an Aluminum sheet about 3mm thick. That plate allows those heating segments to homogenize their heat input pulses better so the heating is more even across the surface above, then it soaked through the mag sheet, further homogenizing what ends up on top. So it actually helps to keep the surface temp across the entire bed face more homogenized as a single temperature, because it conducts heat slightly more slowly than metal. The elements are on the very bottom of the plate, and they are pulse modulated, meaning that the feeback allows it to eventually settle in at a set point and hold it better. If it were up on top there would be "hot spots" of much higher temperature during longer dwell time pulses when it was trying to recover itself to the user set point. Like a little roller coaster looking for the track with the smaller bumps. This has to be bad for the print surface at run time, which is why the elements are separated from the bed face by the Aluminum sheet and magnetic sheet. A thermal imager would likely show slightly less than homogeneous on the bare metal, but way more even heating with the sheet in place. It also allows one to return to the use of the other method, as replacement top sheets are available for that as well. A small 9 to 12 mm hole can be sliced at the center of the mag sheet to access the bed planarity screw (on my machine). Keep the cut out and return it. It does nothing to change how a glass plate sits on the bed, returned or not. It just seems like a lot of extra work to remove it and defeats a designed in mechanism.
Sounds like a pain to have to remove the plate after every print and possibly mess up the level of the bed. The whole point of getting the glass bed is because I wanna not have to deal with leveling issues as often and fixed my warped bed. I think peeling off the magnetic surface is the way to go hands down.
@@Supasilvakilla The glass plate IS planar. No need to invent or worry about warpage. The bed it sits on is flat and the plate clamps down to the same plane every time with simple office clips. If yours is that sloppy, then you have other bed 'play' issues. I can check my bed level each print and did so for a long time, but have concluded that this goes back down the same every time... hands down.
Much east way to get the excess glue off. Just leave the bed temp on. Cut a piece of the sticky magnet pad that you just pulled off, then keep tapping the glue on the pad. The whole board was cleaned in less than 10 seconds.
Same here XD It was only 50x50mm footprint but somehow got stuck so bad I had to heat the bed higher and higher and instead of the damn part coming of the bed came up. It left a permanent bulge. How this happens is beyond me as most people have trouble getting decent bed adhesion, not get so much of it it fucks the bed up.
I used a sheet of aluminum foil to prevent the new glass from sticking to the magnetic bed as i thought having the option to switch between glass and magnetic would be useful!.. but i found glass to be far superior and haven't used the magnetic one since.
I use a PEI spring steel bed on mine and I have never had any issues with prints coming off. I find that applying some isopropyl alcohol to the bed every so often is a huge help.
Hi! That unfortunately doesn't make sense, if you watch the video you'll see that in my specific case the sensor is all the way down but the Z is touching the stop before touching the bed, if you bring the sensor up in this instance you'll just further increase the distance between the Z and the printing plate. The sensor had to go down in order reach the optimum clearance for printing. Thanks for watching 👌🏼
Good video! Got my Ender 5 with that abomination. At first i started to think that my hands a re growing from the wrong place, but after replacing magnetic bed with glass everything started to work as a charm.
I have the same textured glass bed, the problem is that there's no recovery if you ever messed up and got the nozzle too close and scratched the texture... Now that glass would imprint that scratch to all subsequent print and it's usually located in the middle. I also use PEI on glass if more adhesion is required but textured glass generally gave better utility as it is easier to remove prints.
Nice video! I didn't know about the temperature problem with the magnetic bed either. I just got my crystal bed today because of serious leveling problems. I feel a little bit guilty about removing the magnetic bed since it looks almost like a new. Oh and I have to cut the plastic part in the Z stop right out of the box, otherwise I wouldn't be able to even test the printer. Now I'm waiting for the 32 bit board silent kit!
Man thank you for posting this. I just got my ender 3 pro in and I think the magnetic bed has issues with leveling and dips. Mine also had a bent bed leveling screw so I’m pulling everything off and putting my glass bed on.
Thanks for your king words! Helping other people was all I wished for when I did this! I've had a lot of questions in the beginning too and it would have been so much easier for me if I had more information available. Glad I could help! Cheers🤜🏼🤛🏼
Run the magnetic bed at 60 set but them don’t last long for me only two times after that did not matter how much glue you used so I will go to glass bed
Hello I see you cleared off that black bedding stuff. Not sure what you would call it. To put in a glass bed. May I ask why you cleared off that black bedding?
Hi man! Word on the street is that when you use high temps it tends to stick to glass and you'll have a very hard time trying to remove it later with the glass stuck to it. Thanks for watching 👌🏼
@@evosgarage hey man if that’s word on the street then I give my thanks. I actually found removing it spread the heat more evenly on the glass bed. I was finding a warm spot where it would be hot as the rest but it wasn’t. And yup it was sticking to the glass bed. It came up with the glass bed.
I just got this glass bed and I 100% regret it. No matter what I do I cant get a single print to stick, and I cant go back to just using the magnetic bed cause I had to peel it off.
That's a bit odd tbf! Try to give it a sand with 80 grit sandpaper to add some scratches so the your prints have something to bit into! Not ideal, it should work out of the box but it might solve your problem. Cheers
the magnetic bed is trash and caused me so much trouble and wasted filament!! im pissed that i spent the money one it, the stock bed on my ender 3 was and is way better!!!
Hi! Honestly I've never really had great results with super smooth surfaces when printing ABS. On PLA prints It's OK 👌🏼! I design mostly car parts so 80% of my prints are ABS due to It's good heat deflection temperature specs. PLA prints will warp inside a car on hot sunny days. A guy I was talking to a few months ago recommended me to sand the top of the glass diagonally with 80 grip sand paper to help the abs juice, glue stick, hair sprair stick to the glass properly. I followed his advice and it really works a treat! Never had any more problems with prints warping /lifting since. I suggest people having this problem to try this, it really helped my prints become more efficient, less filament waste and time waste. 👌🏼
Is the glasbed upgrade usefull? Is it more flat that the magnetic buildplate? Still dont know if i should change it to glas Does PLA PETG stick good enough without adding glue or whatever?
It is! I would never go back to the stock magnetic bed. I have a brand new one at home and never even had to unbox it... I'm just going to sell it. The magnetic bed was all warped in the middle from day 1, basically impossible to get it levelled properly, in the other hand my glass bed is 100% flat. It requires almost no adjustments from print to print. (I never pull the print with the bed attached to the printer, I always remove the glass first and that really helps keeping the build plate levelled.) It depends on the size of the print, if I'm printing something with large flat surfaces I use hairspray or glue stick to avoid lifting/warping. I don't really like wasting filament or time so I prefer to add an adhesive and give the prints the best chance to come out as perfect as possible first try.
Are you printing a large object that uses all the build plate area? In my experience I've only had the nozzle touching the clips twice, one was on the first time it performed the auto home I had to move the clip on the left hand side a couple of cm towards the centre of the glass in order to clear the nozzle when it comes down, the second time was when I was printing a very large object that used basically 90% of the build plate and in order to to get the clips to clear the nozzle I had to back them out almost completely, leaving just the tip of the clip clamping into the glass! Hope this helps you Matthew! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Did you have any issues with your first layer? I can't seem to get anything to stick to mine. I've cleaned it spotless, tried every temperature combo, even tried printing at only 20% speed and still nothing. Leveled the bed like 50 times and nothing will stick to the surface.
To be honest! Everything has been perfect. I don't want to ginx it 😅! No problems with the prints not sticking but I usually use hairspray, sticks very well and comes off effortlessly every time. I only print ABS manly. Only if I have a very stubborn print I use ABS juice on the bed. Hope this helps you👌🏼
You'll have to make a few adjustments to the bed height get the Z stop in the sweet spot and personally levelling the bed is the last thing I do before I start printing.
@@evosgarage yeah i Got you, but If your bed is little higher or lower while looking for the sweet Spot, then your Spot be different. So i was wondering what the Home high of the bed is. Apprently both ways will Work, Just with little different highs of the bed and Z Axis End Spot, depending of which way you choose.
U all going to want to kill me and say stuff to me but here I go:... I was having problem with model getting stuck on the plate pretty bad... 200 degrees extruder and plate 60 degrees... Then all I did was turning the plate to the clear side and Whalah .. It works like the glass plate or even better.. Please try before u say anything .... Thank me later.. i wonder why nobody even suggested it..
Not at all Meesy, you are right. I've tested that in the past and it works. For some reason I can't explain some of my prints tend to stick a lot harder to the bed and become a pain to remove, when that happens I flip the glass and use de other side because its a lot smoother than the other. Thanks for watching 😁👌🏼👌🏼
@@evosgarage I got the regular ender 3 and it came with a hard base plate. Not the glass one.. it has the regular side dark thing and the clear part . 🙃
Hi! If you're printing PLA try using some hairspray or glue stick on the build plate, if you're printing ABS use abs juice on you're build plate, this should hopefully help you solve your problem. I have a video on my channel about the abs juice if you need! Cheers
For pla I use gluestick works great. For petg also gluestick but for the opposite reason its to make it stick less or else it may chip the glass. ABS Ive had good luck with hairspray. Unscented plain as possible
Авто/Мото
Literally the only dude who peels off the part on the bed. That’s all I’ve been trying to find out. Thank you for actually solving my problem.
Thank you! I'm really glad I was able to help you solve your problem :)
That is exactly why I like this video haha. He is the only one I saw so far who included peeling off the film. I kinda figured it had to be done since it would probably melt from the hot end anyways,, but I needed to be sure before committing to making a permanent change to the glass.
Every other video also said installing glass bed.... and all already had the glass on.....
If the Magnetic hold down sheet is smooth and undamaged, there is no reason to remove it. The heat bed source elements had no problem heating through it for the plastic surface on a metal back, and it should not change the characteristics of operation for a glass top either. As to the fusing problem, there is none if the user remembers to remove the clamps and free the plate between prints.
The heat element is on the bottom of the plate and that 'soaks' through an Aluminum sheet about 3mm thick. That plate allows those heating segments to homogenize their heat input pulses better so the heating is more even across the surface above, then it soaked through the mag sheet, further homogenizing what ends up on top. So it actually helps to keep the surface temp across the entire bed face more homogenized as a single temperature, because it conducts heat slightly more slowly than metal. The elements are on the very bottom of the plate, and they are pulse modulated, meaning that the feeback allows it to eventually settle in at a set point and hold it better. If it were up on top there would be "hot spots" of much higher temperature during longer dwell time pulses when it was trying to recover itself to the user set point. Like a little roller coaster looking for the track with the smaller bumps. This has to be bad for the print surface at run time, which is why the elements are separated from the bed face by the Aluminum sheet and magnetic sheet. A thermal imager would likely show slightly less than homogeneous on the bare metal, but way more even heating with the sheet in place.
It also allows one to return to the use of the other method, as replacement top sheets are available for that as well. A small 9 to 12 mm hole can be sliced at the center of the mag sheet to access the bed planarity screw (on my machine). Keep the cut out and return it. It does nothing to change how a glass plate sits on the bed, returned or not. It just seems like a lot of extra work to remove it and defeats a designed in mechanism.
Sounds like a pain to have to remove the plate after every print and possibly mess up the level of the bed. The whole point of getting the glass bed is because I wanna not have to deal with leveling issues as often and fixed my warped bed. I think peeling off the magnetic surface is the way to go hands down.
@@Supasilvakilla The glass plate IS planar. No need to invent or worry about warpage. The bed it sits on is flat and the plate clamps down to the same plane every time with simple office clips. If yours is that sloppy, then you have other bed 'play' issues. I can check my bed level each print and did so for a long time, but have concluded that this goes back down the same every time... hands down.
Much east way to get the excess glue off. Just leave the bed temp on. Cut a piece of the sticky magnet pad that you just pulled off, then keep tapping the glue on the pad. The whole board was cleaned in less than 10 seconds.
My magnetic bed got messed up after a really fricken stuck print wouldnt come off. Nice to see there is a good cheap alternative.
Yeah that's basically what happened to me too!👌🏼
Same here XD
It was only 50x50mm footprint but somehow got stuck so bad I had to heat the bed higher and higher and instead of the damn part coming of the bed came up.
It left a permanent bulge.
How this happens is beyond me as most people have trouble getting decent bed adhesion, not get so much of it it fucks the bed up.
One of the best, and straight forward, instructional videos for glass bed installation. Thank you
Thanks for watching 👌🏼 👌🏼👌🏼
I used a sheet of aluminum foil to prevent the new glass from sticking to the magnetic bed as
i thought having the option to switch between glass and magnetic would be useful!..
but i found glass to be far superior and haven't used the magnetic one since.
I would keep it there as it homgenizes the surface temp better, more completely as the heating elements pulse.
I use a PEI spring steel bed on mine and I have never had any issues with prints coming off. I find that applying some isopropyl alcohol to the bed every so often is a huge help.
The DEFINITIVE video on this 👍
Thanks for the support! I appreciate it 👌🏼👌🏼
Not sure about the cutting part.I think that was not necessary.If anything you had to bring the sensor up a knoch.
Hi! That unfortunately doesn't make sense, if you watch the video you'll see that in my specific case the sensor is all the way down but the Z is touching the stop before touching the bed, if you bring the sensor up in this instance you'll just further increase the distance between the Z and the printing plate. The sensor had to go down in order reach the optimum clearance for printing.
Thanks for watching 👌🏼
Good video! Got my Ender 5 with that abomination. At first i started to think that my hands a re growing from the wrong place, but after replacing magnetic bed with glass everything started to work as a charm.
I'm glad everything is working a lot better for you🤜🏼🤛🏼
I have the same textured glass bed, the problem is that there's no recovery if you ever messed up and got the nozzle too close and scratched the texture... Now that glass would imprint that scratch to all subsequent print and it's usually located in the middle.
I also use PEI on glass if more adhesion is required but textured glass generally gave better utility as it is easier to remove prints.
I like this video better then the others I watched 👍
Thank you! I appreciate your kind words! ;)
ye i really liked this vid
@@evosgarage Can You Help Me?
@@evosgarage None of my prints are sticking
@@evosgarage Half way through the print the side of the base with lifts of and then it slides everywhere>;(
im using that magnetic piece with my glass bed works great
Nice video! I didn't know about the temperature problem with the magnetic bed either. I just got my crystal bed today because of serious leveling problems. I feel a little bit guilty about removing the magnetic bed since it looks almost like a new. Oh and I have to cut the plastic part in the Z stop right out of the box, otherwise I wouldn't be able to even test the printer. Now I'm waiting for the 32 bit board silent kit!
Man thank you for posting this. I just got my ender 3 pro in and I think the magnetic bed has issues with leveling and dips. Mine also had a bent bed leveling screw so I’m pulling everything off and putting my glass bed on.
I'm happy to hear you got your Ender 3 pro! Get your glass bed in man, the magnetic bed is nothing but trouble👌🏼
you should be given more credit for. The amazing help you provide.
Thanks for your king words! Helping other people was all I wished for when I did this! I've had a lot of questions in the beginning too and it would have been so much easier for me if I had more information available. Glad I could help! Cheers🤜🏼🤛🏼
Great instructions, have you tried printing PETG on it? Considering getting myself a glass bed as well.
Hi! Unfortunately I haven't tried printing PETG yet! Maybe in the future!
I used brake cleaner to clean my plate... very little removed all glue instantly
Run the magnetic bed at 60 set but them don’t last long for me only two times after that did not matter how much glue you used so I will go to glass bed
Go to the glass bed, you won't regret it!👍🏻
Hey Evo quick question do u prefer the 99 percent acetone or the nail posh remover because the nail posh remover isn't work out that well for me
I 100% prefer the acetone over the nail polish remover 👌🏼👌🏼
Great useful video many thanks 👍
Really good video mate, currently waiting on mine to arrive today so thought I'd check this out. Really informative and good quality man.
Thanks mate👌🏼👌🏼 I hope all goes well with your installation!
Hello I see you cleared off that black bedding stuff. Not sure what you would call it. To put in a glass bed. May I ask why you cleared off that black bedding?
Hi man! Word on the street is that when you use high temps it tends to stick to glass and you'll have a very hard time trying to remove it later with the glass stuck to it. Thanks for watching 👌🏼
@@evosgarage hey man if that’s word on the street then I give my thanks. I actually found removing it spread the heat more evenly on the glass bed. I was finding a warm spot where it would be hot as the rest but it wasn’t. And yup it was sticking to the glass bed. It came up with the glass bed.
@@DiyintheGhetto hehe I've had good results too. Glad it helped you man. All the best 🤜🏼🤛🏼
@@evosgarage thanks man.
Very helpful thank you!
why cut it, why not print a new one? and keep the old one just in case?
The reason is once you upgrade to the glass bed you will never want to go back to the useless magnetic one. Hehe
thanks a lot just installed it
Glad to help man! Thanks for watching!
I just got this glass bed and I 100% regret it. No matter what I do I cant get a single print to stick, and I cant go back to just using the magnetic bed cause I had to peel it off.
That's a bit odd tbf! Try to give it a sand with 80 grit sandpaper to add some scratches so the your prints have something to bit into! Not ideal, it should work out of the box but it might solve your problem. Cheers
If you order a magnetic mat it comes with a magnetic sheet to stick on.
@@MicroOutdoors True! I have a new one I've never used.👌🏼
I saw a video where thay flipped the glass over and apparently had no more problems.
@@RK-dp9fe I've been using the glass flipped over for a few months now👌🏼👍
the magnetic bed is trash and caused me so much trouble and wasted filament!! im pissed that i spent the money one it, the stock bed on my ender 3 was and is way better!!!
Great video, no details left out.
A question: many people seem to flip the glass plate other and use the smooth side, will you do this?
Hi! Honestly I've never really had great results with super smooth surfaces when printing ABS. On PLA prints It's OK 👌🏼! I design mostly car parts so 80% of my prints are ABS due to It's good heat deflection temperature specs. PLA prints will warp inside a car on hot sunny days. A guy I was talking to a few months ago recommended me to sand the top of the glass diagonally with 80 grip sand paper to help the abs juice, glue stick, hair sprair stick to the glass properly. I followed his advice and it really works a treat! Never had any more problems with prints warping /lifting since. I suggest people having this problem to try this, it really helped my prints become more efficient, less filament waste and time waste. 👌🏼
Is the glasbed upgrade usefull? Is it more flat that the magnetic buildplate?
Still dont know if i should change it to glas
Does PLA PETG stick good enough without adding glue or whatever?
It is! I would never go back to the stock magnetic bed. I have a brand new one at home and never even had to unbox it... I'm just going to sell it. The magnetic bed was all warped in the middle from day 1, basically impossible to get it levelled properly, in the other hand my glass bed is 100% flat. It requires almost no adjustments from print to print. (I never pull the print with the bed attached to the printer, I always remove the glass first and that really helps keeping the build plate levelled.)
It depends on the size of the print, if I'm printing something with large flat surfaces I use hairspray or glue stick to avoid lifting/warping. I don't really like wasting filament or time so I prefer to add an adhesive and give the prints the best chance to come out as perfect as possible first try.
@@evosgarage thanks for the advise :)
Yea i have the same problem with the magnetic bed its warping way to fast
Glasbed is coming tomorrow
@@nRgyDislyte I'm glad to hear that! All the best to you and keep printing! 👍
My clips keep getting knocked off by the printing nozzle. Is that normal?
Are you printing a large object that uses all the build plate area?
In my experience I've only had the nozzle touching the clips twice, one was on the first time it performed the auto home I had to move the clip on the left hand side a couple of cm towards the centre of the glass in order to clear the nozzle when it comes down, the second time was when I was printing a very large object that used basically 90% of the build plate and in order to to get the clips to clear the nozzle I had to back them out almost completely, leaving just the tip of the clip clamping into the glass! Hope this helps you Matthew! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Hi Mathew, look up swiss clips, they have a smaller "footprint" 😉
Fantastic video, thank you!
(are you Portuguese? You sound Portuguese 😁)
Ya! Hehe os tugas não enganam ninguém a falar português 😅
@@evosgarage foi mesmo isto que eu pensei XD obrigado pelo Tut :)
Did you have any issues with your first layer? I can't seem to get anything to stick to mine. I've cleaned it spotless, tried every temperature combo, even tried printing at only 20% speed and still nothing. Leveled the bed like 50 times and nothing will stick to the surface.
To be honest! Everything has been perfect. I don't want to ginx it 😅! No problems with the prints not sticking but I usually use hairspray, sticks very well and comes off effortlessly every time. I only print ABS manly. Only if I have a very stubborn print I use ABS juice on the bed. Hope this helps you👌🏼
@@evosgarage I've heard about the hairspray trick before but haven't tried it yet. I think I'll pick up some and give it a shot. Thanks!
@@Collinormous no worries! You're welcome!
@@Collinormous just use glue stick and then clean with water
@@DuBPly I’ve actually started using hairspray the other week and it works perfectly
Did it fit in ender 3 s1 ?
I believe it does
Doesnt it make more sense to level the bed before djusting the end of the Z Axis?
You'll have to make a few adjustments to the bed height get the Z stop in the sweet spot and personally levelling the bed is the last thing I do before I start printing.
@@evosgarage yeah i Got you, but If your bed is little higher or lower while looking for the sweet Spot, then your Spot be different. So i was wondering what the Home high of the bed is. Apprently both ways will Work, Just with little different highs of the bed and Z Axis End Spot, depending of which way you choose.
@@extralarge9870 yeah mate! I believe both ways work for sure! It's just my personal preference to level the bed last! 👌🏼
also wat is the music u use in this video
I've used a few different songs 🎵, when I have the chance I'll leave here the full list👍
My printer bed literally melted through. Can I print on just the glass bed?
Hi Mando!
Yes you can! Shouldn't be a problem.
@@evosgarage ok. Thank you for the info.
I remove mine without heating the bed and it will not leave glue residue.
Nice! Was it easy to peel?
@@evosgarage Yes,I use alcohol.
@@BAPHOMET-tr7ci cheers! Always good to know!👍
What temperatures are u using with this glass bed and PLA prints?
Hi! I've been using 210°c on the nozzle and 70°c on the bed for PLA prints!
@@evosgarage thanks!
What's the song's name used at z stop adjusting part? 19:00
Hi! The song is Pluckandplay by Kwon.
@@evosgarage thank you mate
If you take the magnet off at 80° less glue will stick.
Thanks for the advice! 👌🏼
U all going to want to kill me and say stuff to me but here I go:... I was having problem with model getting stuck on the plate pretty bad... 200 degrees extruder and plate 60 degrees... Then all I did was turning the plate to the clear side and Whalah .. It works like the glass plate or even better.. Please try before u say anything .... Thank me later.. i wonder why nobody even suggested it..
Not at all Meesy, you are right. I've tested that in the past and it works. For some reason I can't explain some of my prints tend to stick a lot harder to the bed and become a pain to remove, when that happens I flip the glass and use de other side because its a lot smoother than the other. Thanks for watching 😁👌🏼👌🏼
@@evosgarage I got the regular ender 3 and it came with a hard base plate. Not the glass one.. it has the regular side dark thing and the clear part . 🙃
Thank you!
I've should see this video before :-)
A question, may i use again the magnetic bed directly on the metal?
Thank you
Hi Bertrand.
You can, just use some clips on the corners to hold it in place! :)
Thank you!
@@evosgarage thanks !
Just installed this glass bed aswell but im really having som trubble with the adhesion. What should I do?
Hi! If you're printing PLA try using some hairspray or glue stick on the build plate, if you're printing ABS use abs juice on you're build plate, this should hopefully help you solve your problem. I have a video on my channel about the abs juice if you need! Cheers
For pla I use gluestick works great. For petg also gluestick but for the opposite reason its to make it stick less or else it may chip the glass. ABS Ive had good luck with hairspray. Unscented plain as possible
@@dracoflame8780 Thank you for the response!
Thanks dude! But wear gloves pls ;)
You're right! I will do in the future! Thanks for watching 👌🏼👌🏼