I performed a similar upgrade on my Ender 3V2. The difference was that I used 20mm yellow springs (same length as the originals) whereas I think yours are longer. The result for me is that I didn't have to move the Z-axis switch. The yellow springs are much stiffer than the originals so it's not necessary to make them longer also. Otherwise you lose build height and/or end up with highly compressed springs which start to deform horizontally and are difficult to adjust. Great channel, by the way. I subscribed!
Wow! You saved my life at 12:55! I was having a hard time with my new yellow springs because they are taller than the original ones. I moved the sensor up a little bit and I managed to level it properly! Thank you so much for that tip. Really appreciate it!
I'm gunna do this with my v3 se. Looks like I'll have to drill out the threads in the plate under the bed. Should work. If it doesnt, oh well buy new parts I guess. Update: I did it. Aaand I got too excited for the upgrade that I over looked one detail of why it doesn't work....until you modify the wheels. All 4 adjustment wheels strike the front and rear bump of the body of the ender 3 v3 se. To get around this I used a coping saw to cut the spikes half way or I measured 9mm from center and they now clear. Wheel spins nicely. To get the bolts to go through the bracing plate under the heated bed, I measured a the stock bolt that goes through the bed and into said plate and found a drill bit 0.33 mm larger. I found I could have actually stepped that up one more size. It now can be leveled. I'll update this again with my finding. Was it a good idea? I don't know yet.
Thank you for this video I finally figured out what to do for my ender 3 printer I changed to class bed and whenever I would level it it would Unleveled itself. Guess it’s time to replace my factory springs with the one mentioned in your video.
I find that geometry of a smoother knob has a better feel to it, i find the bigger bumps make it easier to apply a high torque but i find the smoother alows a more fine adjustmet, i use diy printed knobs (.4mm layer height .4 nozzel) so the porosity of the plastic gives a better grip on yout fingers, and i have a turned steel insert for the threads.( possibly leaving the top plate on will help prevent your screws wobbling as much. Appreaciate all your efforts and videos.
I use Ideaformer red silicone stands from aliexpress. I've picked these because one out of four is shorter to accomodate bed cable tensioner. Bed is very stable now, no movement like with standard springs (even with properly tightened v-rollers bed still had some looseness). Also it's more difficult to turn the adjustment wheels, it's now close to impossible to turn them by mistake, which is very good.
I went away with the springs, my printer had those yellow/orange springs, I guess they worked fine but I went with silicone standoffs, they are usually marketed under "Heatbed Silicone Leveling Column".
Just some thoughts from an engineering point of view: You measure both springs compressed to 17mm, but didn't mention if they compressed the same length. And from what I can tell the yellow spring is longer... Of course it doesn't really matter here, just pointing out a potential oversight :) I also agree that the stock wheels might be better since you always want a lighter carriage whenever possible, thanks for this good video!
Thx. I like engeneering thoughts and I agree, one of spring parameter is Newton per compression length. But here I aproach from using aspect. If they are compressed to same lengh (in printer), what force they provide. And they have almost similar uncompressed length (yellow is longer by 0.5 mm maybe)
I've tried quite a few spring sets and I have a set of silicone columns too, the exact ones you pictured. I've probably used equal amounts between springs and the silicone columns and I haven't really noticed a difference in anything really. I use a BLTouch too so as few have mentioned, most of the small movements in bed elevation is compensated for. The one thing I will say though is that the silicone columns are generally a lot shorter than the springs and you might run into issues using some of Marlins built in manual leveling features like Level Corners. Once you've fully uncompressed the columns and can't go any higher with the bed the firmware can get fussy about Z height and it creates a kind of rabbit hole trying to figure out how to trick things into working. Great video as always I really enjoy your style of reviewing and providing detailed information on your journey through upgrading :) Keep up the amazing work!
Two things to pay attention to here which cause a lot of headaches for people, and damage printers. First one is to purchase the same length springs as the original if possible. In your case, I thnk you used matching 20mm springs as the original for Ender 3 v2. Most listings on Amazon and Banggood are 25mm springs with instructions to cut them for sizing. Do not cut the springs. These light load aftermarket springs are die-cut to be flat on both ends for a reason. Rather raise or lower the z limit switch by the difference between original and new spring length. The other issue is over compressing the springs which you unfortunately did in your video. Over compression will prevent the springs from serving their function. This again can be prevented by raising the z limit switch by the a few mms.
Very nice written comment (most of it I mentioned in video). Yes, in footage they look over compressed, during first setting they shold be to prevent nozzle to hit the bed. Then I loose them a little bit. But in meantime I found they could be less tight, so I raised the Z limit switch by 0.5 mm, but after published video.
I've used the yellow springs on my three printers for awhile now and seem to hold the position well for long periods. I do have BL touches on all the printers though so that could be compensating for any movement. Only way to truly know would be to grab the mesh numbers from time to time and compare to see if there is any movement. I have some silicone spacers that I ordered awhile back and am waiting on delivery. So will see how those will work and if any real difference. I've never had the nozzle slam into the bed, but with the silicone spacers if that were to happen it could result on your bed getting damaged. I use mirrors so I guess the potential would be there to break them if that happens but knock on wood hasn't happened yet.
I am using silicon self made dampers for 2-3 years now and I don't really see loosing some elasticity. Maybe the raw / source material (Silikon Kautschuk from trollfactory) I use does not loose so much elasticity over time. In my opinion, I think these dampers with 20-25mm diameter give the whole bed a much higher stability in horizontal direction than these springs (that are really much better than the stock one, as you said!).
Great point! I didn't think of that (more stability in horizontal direction). Probably there are better materials, I had some bad experience with silicone and elasticity.
Is the diameter of replacement springs slightly bigger than original? How well do they stay within the trace keepout distance around the holes? You have a metal undercarriage, so it would be bad if the springs scratched their way through soldermask and then contacted the traces underneath, it's directly a fire hazard. I suggest that you always use some kind of possibly plastic washer under the spring that you can use a hole punch kit to make from some robust plastic, or maybe a nut that tightens the screw directly against the bed and that won't move. The nut will also consume some space and compress stock springs more. I also use Kapton tape applied on the spots of the bed where i may attach glass mounting clamps, also so the solder mask doesn't get damaged.
Interesting thinking. Yes, very minimally bigger outer diameter. Inner almost equal. Top is flat surface, so they hold the position very stable. Plastic washer? It must be very heat resistant if I heat the bed to 110°C for example. Yes, tightening a nut came to my mind, but I didn't tried it. Thx for sharing your thoughts..
Thank you for another detailed mod of the Ender 3 V2. I purchased mine a couple of weeks ago and struggled with getting clean prints. I completely disassemble it and followed your build guide taking great care to work on a level surface and checking that each part was level and square. I took the opportunity to install the Micro Swiss hot end, BLTouch, dual Z axis (second drive motor version), metal extruder, and upgraded (yellow) springs. Following your guides for each and now the print quality is great. The only residual issue is my Y-axis motor runs very hot (can touch it only for a few seconds) while the E and X-axis motors run warm and Z-axis motors run cold. Have you noticed the same or have any troubleshooting suggestions? Thanks again as I was getting frustrated prior to the rebuild and upgrades.
Have you checked your wheel and belt tension? If you've got a lot of extra resistance that will make the motor heat up. The bed should roll freely with no belt on it.
@@dalem04 Thank you for the suggestion. I put the printer back on the operating table and verified no binding and belt tension was good. While leveling the bed I noted the Y-axis getting hot so I'm going to do more research to figure out what would cause the stepper motor to run hot at 'idle'. For now I'm treating the symptom by running a fan over the motor which is working better than I had hoped.
@@dalem04 Thanks again for the advice. Found the Y-Axis resistance to be 5.4/5.4 but all other motors read about 3.4/3.4. I'm contacting the seller to verify a bad motor.
Maybe it is not worth talking about, but using the full aluminum knobs could take some more heat from the heatbed to the knobs, so that there where the screws are inserted in the bed a small cold spot can appear. Less metal material there, less heat loosing from bed, so my theory :-)
@@Tokolist This is mine after rebuiiding my system, installing new springs and adding BLTouch. I wish I had the original map as the bed was really a mess due to Z-axis support leaning forward. (remember RUclips does not support direct links so you will have to add the h,t,t,p,s,:,/,/ to make it work correctly. (i.postimg.cc/gk784TbD/BLTouch-Plot.png)
@@oldsaltypossum5287 Thank you for sharing this. My bed is also well leveled with springs. You should change scale to 0.5mm to get real picture. 2mm scale doesn't make sence, since you can get this result at stock Ender using just peice of paper :) I'm actually curious about aluminium spacers that @Pugwash is using, since I don't believe you can get good bed leveling with them and ABL just masking bad bed leveling....
If you're going to continue doing videos on Ender 3 upgrades, have you considered doing one about 3 point leveling conversion kits, and/or about linear rails conversions? Those are the ones I think sound like they could be good, but I don't know if they actually make a difference to motivate the cost
Good suggestion. I am not sure yet about linear rails, but I think only advantage would be longer life time. Wheels wear by time, they should be replaced, only I am not sure how often. It is hard to invest if you can't see immediately the difference in printing.
If I'm planning on putting a BL touch on, is there any benefit to doing the spring upgrade? If I just crank the stock springs down tight and get it roughly level, won't the BL touch compensate?
Yes, there is a benefit of sprint upgrade. BL Touch will not level the bed for you, only compensate the unleveled distances during 3D printing. It would be perfect, if it doesn't have to compensate anything. Stronger springs will hold the bed leveled for a longer time.
How heavy are these knobs compared to the original? Adding mass to a bed slinger ought to be detrimental, then again maybe at slow speeds it doesn't matter
@@MyTechFun hey thanks, maybe I won't upgrade them after all! The ender 5 even with bed supports flexes a bit but in this case it would just be pretty much a static load... I'd rather upgrade the leadscrew first to try and get rid of the z wobble though.
I just installed those springs I've done two test prints and both times the nozzle just hits the bed it doesn't even get onto the bed it hits the bed starts spitting out filament so I have to quickly stop it, do I just need to compress the spring is more?
@@MyTechFun when I installed the glass bed I saw to put the bed under the z switch to measure should I do that with the spring? That would mean I need to measure spring+bed right?
I depressed the screws completely, I dont know if it's me or the screws but one side is always off. I had a theory, if I loosen the springs couldnt I then just ajust the z ax in the right position? So 0 would always have the nozzle in its right position that would also cut leveling needs, or am I just trying to climb a never ending mountain meaning its a waste of time.
I have recently tried to upgrade my Ender 3 stock springs with some yellow springs, which is available now in Amazon India. Seller is providing 3 options for size. 25 mm, 20 mm and 15mm in length. I went ahead with 25 mm and soon realized that 25 mm is loo long for Ender 3 and I replaces with 20 mm. 20 mm was 1 mm longer when fully compressed and I need to adjust the Z-limit switch approx 1 mm higher. Then I tried 15 mm one and it was just fit as needed. My question if the 15 mm is good enough and if the shorter length has any potential performance issue as compared with the 20 mm one? Actually I don't want to adjust my Z-limit switch and want to go with its default position.
Hi, regarding your test print after replacing springs. I am having issues with getting the same print to stick to the bed, it always comes loose about 2 minutes after the print has started. Any ideas on what I could be doing wrong
A bal hátsó csavarnál, ahol a kábelezés megy, a kábel tartója a rugó alatt van, emiatt az 3mm-rel kisebbre szorul. Nem tudom, hogy van-e bármi értelme, de én a másik 3 rugó alá nyomtattam egy 3mm magas alátétet, hogy aránylag egyforma erővel nyomják a rugók az asztal mind a négy sarkát.
I got a set of these for my ender 3 v2, they are too long, the links in your description are for 25mm, the ones the v2 needs are 20mm, how did you compensate for the taller spring with out cutting them?
I bought these so my bed stays level. They didn't help, but my bed doesn't crash into the y motor anymore because they're taller so I guess it's a win lol 🤷♂️
It's really annoying that Ender ships these units with free spinning Bed mount bolts. A cheap part like lock nuts to hold the bolts in place should come stock on every unit.
I performed a similar upgrade on my Ender 3V2. The difference was that I used 20mm yellow springs (same length as the originals) whereas I think yours are longer. The result for me is that I didn't have to move the Z-axis switch. The yellow springs are much stiffer than the originals so it's not necessary to make them longer also. Otherwise you lose build height and/or end up with highly compressed springs which start to deform horizontally and are difficult to adjust. Great channel, by the way. I subscribed!
Wow! You saved my life at 12:55! I was having a hard time with my new yellow springs because they are taller than the original ones. I moved the sensor up a little bit and I managed to level it properly!
Thank you so much for that tip. Really appreciate it!
I like a certain balance between nerdy and humor, that your videos tend to have. Thanks for your hard work!
I'm gunna do this with my v3 se. Looks like I'll have to drill out the threads in the plate under the bed. Should work. If it doesnt, oh well buy new parts I guess.
Update: I did it. Aaand I got too excited for the upgrade that I over looked one detail of why it doesn't work....until you modify the wheels.
All 4 adjustment wheels strike the front and rear bump of the body of the ender 3 v3 se. To get around this I used a coping saw to cut the spikes half way or I measured 9mm from center and they now clear. Wheel spins nicely. To get the bolts to go through the bracing plate under the heated bed, I measured a the stock bolt that goes through the bed and into said plate and found a drill bit 0.33 mm larger. I found I could have actually stepped that up one more size. It now can be leveled. I'll update this again with my finding. Was it a good idea? I don't know yet.
Thank you for this video I finally figured out what to do for my ender 3 printer I changed to class bed and whenever I would level it it would Unleveled itself. Guess it’s time to replace my factory springs with the one mentioned in your video.
I find that geometry of a smoother knob has a better feel to it, i find the bigger bumps make it easier to apply a high torque but i find the smoother alows a more fine adjustmet, i use diy printed knobs (.4mm layer height .4 nozzel) so the porosity of the plastic gives a better grip on yout fingers, and i have a turned steel insert for the threads.( possibly leaving the top plate on will help prevent your screws wobbling as much. Appreaciate all your efforts and videos.
I also upgraded to the silicone stff and I think is better all over than the yellow springs from before
I use Ideaformer red silicone stands from aliexpress. I've picked these because one out of four is shorter to accomodate bed cable tensioner. Bed is very stable now, no movement like with standard springs (even with properly tightened v-rollers bed still had some looseness). Also it's more difficult to turn the adjustment wheels, it's now close to impossible to turn them by mistake, which is very good.
I went away with the springs, my printer had those yellow/orange springs, I guess they worked fine but I went with silicone standoffs, they are usually marketed under "Heatbed Silicone Leveling Column".
Just some thoughts from an engineering point of view: You measure both springs compressed to 17mm, but didn't mention if they compressed the same length. And from what I can tell the yellow spring is longer... Of course it doesn't really matter here, just pointing out a potential oversight :)
I also agree that the stock wheels might be better since you always want a lighter carriage whenever possible, thanks for this good video!
Thx. I like engeneering thoughts and I agree, one of spring parameter is Newton per compression length. But here I aproach from using aspect. If they are compressed to same lengh (in printer), what force they provide. And they have almost similar uncompressed length (yellow is longer by 0.5 mm maybe)
I've tried quite a few spring sets and I have a set of silicone columns too, the exact ones you pictured. I've probably used equal amounts between springs and the silicone columns and I haven't really noticed a difference in anything really. I use a BLTouch too so as few have mentioned, most of the small movements in bed elevation is compensated for.
The one thing I will say though is that the silicone columns are generally a lot shorter than the springs and you might run into issues using some of Marlins built in manual leveling features like Level Corners. Once you've fully uncompressed the columns and can't go any higher with the bed the firmware can get fussy about Z height and it creates a kind of rabbit hole trying to figure out how to trick things into working.
Great video as always I really enjoy your style of reviewing and providing detailed information on your journey through upgrading :) Keep up the amazing work!
Great video, keep up the good work. I have ordered them for my Am8 now.
1 hour later :D:D: you got lucky when the spring launched where it did. In the next video you could be a pirate
I agree. I left the footage in the video for educational purposes too, so others will not be so stupid like me.
Two things to pay attention to here which cause a lot of headaches for people, and damage printers. First one is to purchase the same length springs as the original if possible. In your case, I thnk you used matching 20mm springs as the original for Ender 3 v2. Most listings on Amazon and Banggood are 25mm springs with instructions to cut them for sizing. Do not cut the springs. These light load aftermarket springs are die-cut to be flat on both ends for a reason. Rather raise or lower the z limit switch by the difference between original and new spring length. The other issue is over compressing the springs which you unfortunately did in your video. Over compression will prevent the springs from serving their function. This again can be prevented by raising the z limit switch by the a few mms.
Very nice written comment (most of it I mentioned in video). Yes, in footage they look over compressed, during first setting they shold be to prevent nozzle to hit the bed. Then I loose them a little bit. But in meantime I found they could be less tight, so I raised the Z limit switch by 0.5 mm, but after published video.
I've used the yellow springs on my three printers for awhile now and seem to hold the position well for long periods. I do have BL touches on all the printers though so that could be compensating for any movement. Only way to truly know would be to grab the mesh numbers from time to time and compare to see if there is any movement.
I have some silicone spacers that I ordered awhile back and am waiting on delivery. So will see how those will work and if any real difference. I've never had the nozzle slam into the bed, but with the silicone spacers if that were to happen it could result on your bed getting damaged. I use mirrors so I guess the potential would be there to break them if that happens but knock on wood hasn't happened yet.
You've never had a nozzle crash before? If I send you money will you buy some lottery tickets?
I am using silicon self made dampers for 2-3 years now and I don't really see loosing some elasticity. Maybe the raw / source material (Silikon Kautschuk from trollfactory) I use does not loose so much elasticity over time. In my opinion, I think these dampers with 20-25mm diameter give the whole bed a much higher stability in horizontal direction than these springs (that are really much better than the stock one, as you said!).
Great point! I didn't think of that (more stability in horizontal direction). Probably there are better materials, I had some bad experience with silicone and elasticity.
Fantastic job as usual, thanks for the review. Love the D2 content also!
Is the diameter of replacement springs slightly bigger than original? How well do they stay within the trace keepout distance around the holes? You have a metal undercarriage, so it would be bad if the springs scratched their way through soldermask and then contacted the traces underneath, it's directly a fire hazard. I suggest that you always use some kind of possibly plastic washer under the spring that you can use a hole punch kit to make from some robust plastic, or maybe a nut that tightens the screw directly against the bed and that won't move. The nut will also consume some space and compress stock springs more. I also use Kapton tape applied on the spots of the bed where i may attach glass mounting clamps, also so the solder mask doesn't get damaged.
Interesting thinking. Yes, very minimally bigger outer diameter. Inner almost equal. Top is flat surface, so they hold the position very stable. Plastic washer? It must be very heat resistant if I heat the bed to 110°C for example. Yes, tightening a nut came to my mind, but I didn't tried it. Thx for sharing your thoughts..
How heavier are those new knobs when compared to stock ones? Making Y axis carriage lighter may be a more important point then looks
Thank you for another detailed mod of the Ender 3 V2. I purchased mine a couple of weeks ago and struggled with getting clean prints. I completely disassemble it and followed your build guide taking great care to work on a level surface and checking that each part was level and square. I took the opportunity to install the Micro Swiss hot end, BLTouch, dual Z axis (second drive motor version), metal extruder, and upgraded (yellow) springs. Following your guides for each and now the print quality is great. The only residual issue is my Y-axis motor runs very hot (can touch it only for a few seconds) while the E and X-axis motors run warm and Z-axis motors run cold. Have you noticed the same or have any troubleshooting suggestions? Thanks again as I was getting frustrated prior to the rebuild and upgrades.
Have you checked your wheel and belt tension? If you've got a lot of extra resistance that will make the motor heat up. The bed should roll freely with no belt on it.
@@dalem04 Thank you for the suggestion. I put the printer back on the operating table and verified no binding and belt tension was good. While leveling the bed I noted the Y-axis getting hot so I'm going to do more research to figure out what would cause the stepper motor to run hot at 'idle'. For now I'm treating the symptom by running a fan over the motor which is working better than I had hoped.
@@oldsaltypossum5287 If there is no binding and it's hot at rest, check resistances (of the motor and wire) and output current and voltages.
@@dalem04 Thanks again for the advice. Found the Y-Axis resistance to be 5.4/5.4 but all other motors read about 3.4/3.4. I'm contacting the seller to verify a bad motor.
Maybe it is not worth talking about, but using the full aluminum knobs could take some more heat from the heatbed to the knobs, so that there where the screws are inserted in the bed a small cold spot can appear. Less metal material there, less heat loosing from bed, so my theory :-)
Taking heat from bed, I didn't think of that. I like your theories. Thx.
Good Videos as always Igor! may i ask if you got contacted by Banggood or you contacted them ? am just interested also in reviewing some stuff thanks!
They contacted me. But in last contact they asked me to suggest a product :-)
@@MyTechFun Thank you for the answer. Keep up the good videos! :)
After fitting the BLTouch, I replaced my springs and dials with aluminium spacers and nuts, so I rely on the auto bed levelling instead.
if you happen to have OctoPrint, can you please share a screenshot of your bed in Bed Visualizer?
I possibly still have an unlevel x-axis so I have the dual-thread upgrade ordered already.
@@Tokolist This is mine after rebuiiding my system, installing new springs and adding BLTouch. I wish I had the original map as the bed was really a mess due to Z-axis support leaning forward. (remember RUclips does not support direct links so you will have to add the h,t,t,p,s,:,/,/ to make it work correctly. (i.postimg.cc/gk784TbD/BLTouch-Plot.png)
@@oldsaltypossum5287 Thank you for sharing this. My bed is also well leveled with springs. You should change scale to 0.5mm to get real picture. 2mm scale doesn't make sence, since you can get this result at stock Ender using just peice of paper :) I'm actually curious about aluminium spacers that @Pugwash
is using, since I don't believe you can get good bed leveling with them and ABL just masking bad bed leveling....
@@Tokolist Thank you for the suggestion, I will do that right after my current print job is complete.
If you're going to continue doing videos on Ender 3 upgrades, have you considered doing one about 3 point leveling conversion kits, and/or about linear rails conversions? Those are the ones I think sound like they could be good, but I don't know if they actually make a difference to motivate the cost
Good suggestion. I am not sure yet about linear rails, but I think only advantage would be longer life time. Wheels wear by time, they should be replaced, only I am not sure how often. It is hard to invest if you can't see immediately the difference in printing.
If I'm planning on putting a BL touch on, is there any benefit to doing the spring upgrade? If I just crank the stock springs down tight and get it roughly level, won't the BL touch compensate?
Yes, there is a benefit of sprint upgrade. BL Touch will not level the bed for you, only compensate the unleveled distances during 3D printing. It would be perfect, if it doesn't have to compensate anything. Stronger springs will hold the bed leveled for a longer time.
@@MyTechFun thanks for taking the time to respond!
How heavy are these knobs compared to the original? Adding mass to a bed slinger ought to be detrimental, then again maybe at slow speeds it doesn't matter
Yes, they are heavier and more slippy. I moved back to plastic ones (but springs are good)
@@MyTechFun hey thanks, maybe I won't upgrade them after all! The ender 5 even with bed supports flexes a bit but in this case it would just be pretty much a static load... I'd rather upgrade the leadscrew first to try and get rid of the z wobble though.
I just installed those springs I've done two test prints and both times the nozzle just hits the bed it doesn't even get onto the bed it hits the bed starts spitting out filament so I have to quickly stop it, do I just need to compress the spring is more?
Try to compress springs more. If they are almost max compressed, move the Z limit switch a little bit higher (so it is pressed earlier)
@@MyTechFun when I installed the glass bed I saw to put the bed under the z switch to measure should I do that with the spring? That would mean I need to measure spring+bed right?
I depressed the screws completely, I dont know if it's me or the screws but one side is always off. I had a theory, if I loosen the springs couldnt I then just ajust the z ax in the right position? So 0 would always have the nozzle in its right position that would also cut leveling needs, or am I just trying to climb a never ending mountain meaning its a waste of time.
I have recently tried to upgrade my Ender 3 stock springs with some yellow springs, which is available now in Amazon India. Seller is providing 3 options for size. 25 mm, 20 mm and 15mm in length. I went ahead with 25 mm and soon realized that 25 mm is loo long for Ender 3 and I replaces with 20 mm. 20 mm was 1 mm longer when fully compressed and I need to adjust the Z-limit switch approx 1 mm higher. Then I tried 15 mm one and it was just fit as needed. My question if the 15 mm is good enough and if the shorter length has any potential performance issue as compared with the 20 mm one? Actually I don't want to adjust my Z-limit switch and want to go with its default position.
I have received ender 3 3d printer. In bed spring There 4 springs in that one smaller then all? It's good or not…
Smaller goes to back-left position.
@@MyTechFun okey…
Hi, regarding your test print after replacing springs. I am having issues with getting the same print to stick to the bed, it always comes loose about 2 minutes after the print has started. Any ideas on what I could be doing wrong
Not enough information. But clean and level the bed.
A bal hátsó csavarnál, ahol a kábelezés megy, a kábel tartója a rugó alatt van, emiatt az 3mm-rel kisebbre szorul. Nem tudom, hogy van-e bármi értelme, de én a másik 3 rugó alá nyomtattam egy 3mm magas alátétet, hogy aránylag egyforma erővel nyomják a rugók az asztal mind a négy sarkát.
Jó észrevétel. Igen, pl. a szilikonos rugóknál, mivel kevésbé rugalmasak, egyik még rövidebb is.
I guess there is an important aspect, if u push the bed level springs soo hard, the spinrgs will bend your bed, Isn't it?
Hm. I don't know if it can bend or it will break first. But I belive these springs are not that strong, I never heard about similar case.
Upgrades to flat springs just as all the cool kids are swapping these out for silicone tubes/columns. lol
I got a set of these for my ender 3 v2, they are too long, the links in your description are for 25mm, the ones the v2 needs are 20mm, how did you compensate for the taller spring with out cutting them?
nevermind, i see you messed with the Z limit switch, i ordered some 20mm springs and hopefully i wont have to mess with that
It's very easy to move z limit switch, only two screws is holding it.
I bought these so my bed stays level. They didn't help, but my bed doesn't crash into the y motor anymore because they're taller so I guess it's a win lol 🤷♂️
You can always move Z limit switch a little bit if necessary (up-down)
It's really annoying that Ender ships these units with free spinning Bed mount bolts. A cheap part like lock nuts to hold the bolts in place should come stock on every unit.
THOSE WHEELS ARE shit. THEY LOOSEN DURING PRINTING. I HAVNT FIGURED OUT HOW TO FIX IT YET. THEY CAME ON MY ENDER 3 S 1