Dude, I bought an Ender 3 V2 and leveling the bed has been an absolute torture! Since this is my first 3d printer, I searched tons of tutorials, but this video really solved all my problems! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Ive been in the same boat as yall, i gave up after putting the upgrades on my printer. Once i buy new filament im going to try this shit again bc this video is so much simpler then the others.
Yes it’s taken me hours to try and level my bed this is the best video I have come across I am going to purchase some springs and go though and level agin as I need to adjust every few prints it’s the biggest pain.
Pro tip! The wrench included is actually 1.9mm so you can also use that to get your hot end about 2.0mm away from the bed as he states in the video!! Thanks for this video BTW!! It’s awesome
That's a fantastic tip! I was struggling to get my z-axis stop switch at just the right height and I don't have a set of feeler gauges. I used your tip (and the others in the video), now I'm finally starting my 3D printing journey!
Also recommend to visit local hardware store or amazon and get "nice" caliper around 20-30e. I used this for verifying paper or spacers that I used leveling. It's pretty help full also when checking if mechanic prints are ok.
Still better than getting fed up, wasting hundreds of dollars in filament/failed prints, getting pissed, and either throwing it in the basement/garage or selling it. Next time you'll do it faster.
@@dejnorfthegreat1227 im on day 5 and almost a full spool of pla just trying to level. i have seen every existing leveling video, every reddit post and now starting to believe this is someho defective. my frustration is immeasurable and my week is ruined.
@@itsHec dosnt need to be perfect to print just set a low speed and hot nozzle+bed for first few layers and ur fine. I dont think the problem is the bed here if it takes u a week to fix sorry.
Finally someone who identifies the 2 problems I had. 1. Rubbish springs 2. Starting with bed low enough to allow enough adjustment on bed screws to get it level I have watched about 10 Enders 3 bed levelling videos by some of the "best" people and they just skip these things Well done👍
Disabling the steppers for adjusting the bed is the worst entry in the RTFM from creality! Now I leave the steppers on and move the bed with x/y control for adjusting.
I used to think this was important too, but if you're getting this issue I guarantee what's more likely is your x gantry is loose and needs adjusting. My x gantry has no play it now. Also the y gantry needed tightening for me to stop bed wobbling when I cleaned it
Excellent tutorial - after following this guide I was able to successfully achieve my first print on my new Ender 3 V2. Not only was I finally able to get the bed leveled, the first print "3Dbenchy" was the finest example of that particular model I have printed on any of my other printers.
Amazing work, i bought my Creality ender 3 v2 yesterday and after assembly the prints had a bad adhesion to the bed, after watching this i make perfect prints. Thank you so much!!!
I am just about to level my new V2 for the first time. The notifications came across and the timing couldn’t be better. I followed Tom’s assembly video and it helped so much- thanks Tom!
Spent most of the week trying to get my 3d printer to print out mini's and couldn't figure it out, my filament would NOT adhere to the plate like it should. Followed this video and replaced the springs as was suggested at the beginning and after several paper tests and making sure my bed was clean, my prints came out beautifully! Highly suggest swapping out the springs and take the time to do the paper test several times until the squares come out as they should from the bed leveling print, it's WELL worth it. Thank you!
The better springs are a great idea if anyone isn't convinced. They come in kits of other upgrade parts a lot of the time too. Also I had an issue where my nozzle would scrape when moving between corners even when all corners were perfectly leveled. I found that my z axis limit switch was too low and I had to have my tensioners cranked down so hard it was warping the print bed. At the same time that I put the new springs on I raised that switch and it no longer happens. Excellent video just wish I'd seen it sooner.
I learned this through trial and error. Those yellow spring are the best cheap upgrade you can buy. I had a bl touch on my V2 which I removed because I don't need it anymore. I only need to re-level if I've changed the nozzle or did other work on the printer.
Never worked for me because I can’t work out from which direction I’m looking at screw adjustment. And which bit goes to the right? Top or bottom of the screw head? 🤨😢
@bitflip Honestly I got em and never installed because I've been getting good print now. The belt on the Y axis wasn't tight enough for me and its like a whole new machine now. Also make sure your using the right temp. I had mine too low. I do plan on installing the springs soon because I have to relevel after like 3 big prints and that can be annoying
Fun tip: the thickness of the wrench is about 2mm. I found that lowering the nozzle until it's half the height of the wrench is perfect for leveling my Ender 3 V2. (A nickel is 1.95mm and the wrench is a bit thicker than a nickel.) Also: I was confused with wording he used for changing the z axis sensor. So if anyone else was confused: 1. Lift the sensor up until it bottoms out 2. Then lower the sensor until you hear it click. 3. Tighten it down.
Just re-leveled my bed using this. I got a great result! now to Re-slice a bunch of things, since it seems I'm having problems with that. Fortunately, the bed is no longer one. Thank you!
Had a 3d printer since christmas, while I had created wonderful things with it so far, leveling has always been a constant.. My next one, will be a auto leveler, bigger print bed, I think are my biggest two, some of these tips are helpful, and that z axis will always be a bane in my heart... my thermistor went on it recently, so I upgraded to a direct drive, it did a few prints nicely, but leaving blotted marks, so I may have to adjust a few things slightly however leveling as I said is a constant... I will follow these tips and try for a results on it! So thank you! Sub earned as well!
Thank you for this video. Took me a couple of tries but finally got all of the squares to print fine. The hardest part was using the paper test as I wasn't sure how snug the paper had to be with the nozzle. Using a series of trial and error, I was paying attention to one corner and had to get the 'snug' to be precisely the same on all four corners and that's how I got it to level. I enjoyed this video and the test file seems to be doing the trick when leveling the bed. Also to note that paying attention to the skirt on the outside and how thin/thick the line is. If the skirt produces a reasonable thin line, then that's a good indicator of whether the bed is level as well.
Great video. Got my printer a few weeks ago and have been leveling between EVERY print. Followed the video. New springs are worth it. It took 4 rounds of the test print to get the bed dialed in. BAM! no more leveling between prints. THANK YOU!
Your video seems to have done the trick. I am half way through a benchy and so far so good. This video really made a difference. I did add silicone spaces instead of yellow springs.
I was really worried about bed leveling when first getting into 3D printing but it's actually not as hard as I had imagined it. I generally get eye level with the printer and as it's printing the test prints, i can adjust it lightly as it's printing to correct for spots where it was off. I have the ender 5 and most of the time I can trust it to just print new prints with no problems once it's leveled and the only time I really need to adjust it again is when I need to move it , even just to clean, if I move it i have to re-level but if I don't touch it it stays level for a really long time on its own. great video but it should be titled how to level your 3D printer bed because this really goes for most of them! The only thing I really hate about the ender5 is that the bar is right there where it starts printing so it's hard to see if the nozzle is close enough to the bed but other than that it's been a great printer as my first! I really like the way the new ones look.
Same, i got Ender 5 pro as my first printer and I only adjust bed when changing nozzle or filament just to make sure it's printing right. Glass bed also helps with that.
you probably dont care at all but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Johnathan Nicholas I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I kinda feel stupid for not realising I could move the z end switch. This has really helped, levelling it now and ordered the spring to do it again next week XD
Because of the fulcrum/pivoting you describe at 5:33, to avoid adding confusing slack on one of the points, one should adjust two supports at once--either opposite corners in opposite directions to change the slant of the bed as needed, or adjacent corners in the same directions to raise or lower the edge between the points.
That was useful. Thanks. I took it a step further and am adjusting the opposite corners in pairs instead of going around the bed in a circular pattern. It seems to work faster for me with less frustration.
Thank you for your great tutorial. I took a different approach to the leveling part because I run out of luck twice with the glass bed and I prefer to print onto a spring steel bed with PEI coating. I have enabled in marlin firmware the manual mesh leveling and made a matrix 5x5. Then through the printer, after leveling the corners, I'm running through all the mesh points, calibrating the printer. At the end I save it in the EEPROM and add at my slicing software the M420 e1 command after the G28 command
Watched your guides when I first for my ender3 v2 4 months ago. did it. perfect prints ever since. Got the new springs for christmas. haven't been able to get it dialed in since. Then I remembered this video. Rewatched it. redownloaded the model, and started adjustments. Perfect settings after about 20 minutes. Thanks for this, and the Cura Profiles! now I'm back off to print minis' (I have a Lord of the Print Dragon in my sights, but want to do some smaller stuff first to be sure I've got the settings dialed in after the rebuild)
Just want to say thanks! Got my Ender 3 V2 set up using your videos and got the bed leveled! I appreciate you making this content 👍 you’ve got my line and sub 🙂
its things like this that make me smile. Just purchased those springs but they costed around 9 bucks total after sales tax. I will install them as soon as I get them. I also purchased a all aluminum extruder for my Ender 3 V2.
I just got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2) today, and your videos helped me set it up as well as level it. Thanks for all you do. Tomorrow I start with Dragonlock :)
Thank you for actually describing how to set the Z-stop! I've been pulling my hair out trying to level the bed, get it perfect, and then the head crashed into the plate, or the print just wouldn't stick, and no one ever showed or described how to set that piece, just saying that you should put it on correctly! You're awesome, solved all my problems!
I am having the same issues. Yesterday printer test files no problems done about 6 then downloaded some items from Thingiverse and filiment getting dragged everywhere. Tried and tried levelling but gonna give this ago in the morning finger crossed it works
Will be getting some better springs soon. Thank you for uploading this. I had to fix my z axis first with a different video it was way bad. Then I followed your video and I'm printing a benchie right now. It looks great so far and I couldn't be happier 😊.
Thanks for sharing the g code to test print the first layer. I figured out the problem was that I was too afraid to move the nozzle down close enough to the bed. I would have been there forever if not for being able to recognize why it failed as you clearly explained in the video.
Excellent tutorial. I adjusted the z-offset dynamically while it printed each square, setting z-offset to +0.1, 0, and -0.1. This gave me three profiles for each square for each corner to evaluate. For my printer with my leveling touch, -0.1 gave perfect results.
This printer is a NIGHTMARE. I've done all this and all 4 corners finally get somewhat level after about 12 times around - but then i check the middle - and it's like it's raised a little, there's like a slight bevel upward in the glass or bed. My cr-10 mini had the opposite problem with bed warped inward - NEVER AGAIN with this brand. Fricken headache.
Yeah I was torn between 3d Printer and laser engraver as a hobby. Seems like laser engraving has much less tinkering and upgrading involved, so I might eventually go in that direction. I'll stick with this, though. I need to get some of these upgrades to make my life easier.
This is a good step by step. I walked through it and had to file plastic on my limit switch to get in the correct position now that I’m using the new yellow springs. They don’t compress the same as stock. Also I find my right two springs when even make the bed to sit higher than the left. Think my entire bed is off. Ended up setting switch when nozzle is on left front corner and leveled from there.
Thank you for the great video very easy to follow. Ordering the springs as we speak! Got my ender V2 running a few days ago. Glad I found your channel man keep up the good work
Thanks for the link to the springs. I've been struggling with my bed moving after I adjust it. Just ordered some new springs which I hope will fix that.
Thanks for the new video. Normally I use a BLTouch and probe the bed in 100 points to get a mesh, but the BLTouch is down and I needed to remember how to use the paper method. I went looking for your old video and found this one. Nice job, and thanks again. My test print is your Minotaur Warrior :)
The spring info is gold! Ender 3 family seems to be very flawed when it comes to bed level. It's absolutely not perfectly flat, not even with glass support does it mitigate the issue. You will have nice corners, but really high or low mid section of the bed. That happens even when you make sure the springs have the exact same length, that the overall balance of the printer is stable (that it's perfectly balanced and doesn't wobble on the flat surface) and that everything is level and belts have proper tension. It must definitely be the springs which "dance" around the bolts.
I want to thank you very much for this video. It help me finally get my bed level. I have had serious problems getting prints to stick. I purchased Creality 3D Pro Glass off Amazon vendor had a certificate of authenticity but nothing would stick except if it had a raft. I found it very interesting instruction say to clean the glass with Isopropyl Alcohol but with special finish that ruin it I know because I was plastic fabricator & laminator in the Aerospace Industry and Creality states on their website to heat the plate to 70 degrees then use warm water to clean. Also the glass being sold on Amazon states it's 4mm but one on Creality is 3mm. I order one on 2/24/21 will take 7 days to get here. In meantime I went to Econo Glass got plate glass 9 1/4 by 9 1/4 1/8 thick whis is 3 mm and it only cost $7 using UHU stic and your instruction and bed leveling 190x190 gcode only the left corner need to be adjusted after 10 print got it perfect and now printing buck converter case with just a skirt. I am going to stick with glass plate
another thing that helps is having the Jyers firmware for the v2. you can heat the bed separate to the hotend so you can be more accurate. it also includes helpful manual leveling tools
Hey! Thank you for the tips! They were very helpful (especially the Z axis switch and the use of the wrenches as a guide), i got near perfect leveling!
Tip: 1. The wrench is very odd to use on the back two adjustment wheels because of spacing and the angles of the open end wrenches; a No.2 pencil is approximately the same measurement, ( run the wheel until the screw threads just show below the bottom edge of the pencil ), and it is a lot more fun to work with; then the wrench; you'll see what I mean when your try to stick it in, and hold it there while turning the wheel; no joy. 2. When you adjust the stop micro switch; I had to use the distance of a credit card; because just trying to guess 2mm kept leaving me to tight; and then it is a simple small adjustment to level from there, with enough up and down movement to level, ( ja, ja .. 25 years of military service makes you a tad OCD ). Excellent and Actionable content; so thanks for that; you added additional useful information in this video, not found in others I have looked at, ( which are many ). For an undetermined reason, I cannot start with the paper adjustment in the home position corner; if I do, then when moving from the left front corner to the right front corner is way to high and I run out of adjustment before I can lower it enough .. I just finished using your method; but have not printed the test pattern out as of yet. Peace Addendum: Edit, hands down this is the best bed leveling method that I have found so far; as mentioned above, I bought the yellow bed springs but the bed continues to stay level that I have not changed the springs yet; I figured I would change them once the bed needed to be re-leveled; but it has stayed level for over two weeks now. My prints come out near perfect. I have and undetermined issue where the print sides will be clean and then it will have a line where it looks like a cut going cross the grain around a quarter inch; on different prints it happens in different places or not at all: I don't know how to address this; maybe it is firmware and I need to update that; it doesn't matter if it is standard or high quality; it kind of looks like a uniform nozzle print error, but it is in a near perfect line or angle; maybe I can find something on rigid about it. As far as I can tell, it is not a mechanical issue; how is there no pattern to a line of errors .. baffled?
Thank you so much for making this video!! I've set up my Ender 3 v2 using your other video and this one has helped me immensely. Just made my first ever 3D print thanks to you sir! Much appreciated.
I started powering on my ender 3 v2 first time with absolutely knowledge before, and the first thing was leveling based on this video. Took me max. 20min, and 4h later i had my 3d benchy in perfect shape! Thank you very much!
Thanks very much for this. I am completely new to all this and after watching your video on the Ender3 V2 as well I am now printing my first cookie cutter.
I've found it's key to preheat your bed to your approximate temps, but don't heat the hot end. The temperature of the bed can effect the springs, and leveling having them temp'd to the target temp seems take another variable out of the bed leveling equation.
I removed my z positions sensor, removed the tab from it, then lowered the bed as far down as I could go while still having clearance for the stepper motor and wires. I then lowered the nozzle down until it was touching the rear left corner (the corner that needs clearance), I then trammed the bed based on that corner, then repositioned the z position sensor.
I just discovered a neat trick. When printing a large part(s) and the brim won't stick well all around, start your PRINT with a piece of 20# paper ON THE PRINT DECK. I found that (with the plate and nozzle at working temperature; that's important) commanding the printer to "auto home", followed by "disable stepper", and careful leveling with the adjustment wheels did NOT produce the same clearance distance as when the printer ACTUALLY started printing. So, sacrifice one or two rows of the brim and do your leveling AFTER you start the print, and WHILE your part is printing. Worst case: you may have to "abort" and restart the print if leveling takes exceptionally long. The resulting brim is MUCH cleaner and adheres much better to the build plate. Hope this helps. PS yes, get better springs (or manually "stretch" them to get more range). For the money, a good printer.
THANK YOU. I've been confused about the initial level of compression I should have on my bed's screws (got an Ender 3) before starting the leveling process for a while now but I could never quite get a clear answer. This is SO massively helpful. Also, totally buying some new springs. Thank you!
I just got an Ender 3 V2. Spring and tube upgrade was printing perfect every time it was really easy to level. Then I added a BL touch huge mistake was a pain to get working, leveled and cable management, software updates kind of suck and now I get failed prints, strings, droops and you have to run the leveling program every time I want to print, now I have to manually set my nozzle temp. Follow this video and everything will be great.
An easier method to adjusting the Z Stop switch is after you've loosened as raised the switch lay an Alan key of the size you want flat across the base of the machine, then let the switch lower until it rests on it. Tighten the bolts, remove the Alan key, and voila. 1-2mm extra clearance. As for the heated/not heated, I just set the bed to heat up but leave the hot end off.
Best of the bed leveling videos I've seen so far, thank you! But where is the link to the gcode file for the test print please? I see the video, I see the many comments, but....?
Thanks for all your videos new to 3d printing and have been trying very hard to even get close to how amazing your minatures look. Using cr10 v3 and not having the luck you do. Ill keep watching and hope I get there one day.
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
Hi I have an Ender 3V2 and my issue is that the aluminium heat plate is not flat and so the glass does not stay flat if not clamped very specifically. I've tried aluminium foil and tape underneath as a shim but it's really hard to get it perfect - do you have any tips for this?
I tried clipping the corners as well because my glass was "dish shaped." It kinda helped. It might not be your aluminum, it could be the glass from being center clamped so hard. I'd love to hear tips for this as well because my glass bed seems to be all over the place as far as "flatness" goes!
The bed on my Longer LK5 was a bit low, so I glue-sticked some paper shims in the middle of the aluminum bed to bring the glass up to level. It has worked well.
Thank you so much for this. I got an sc-10 shark for an early Christmas gift and was having a hard time with leveling and having the nobs to close to the edge of the screw that halfway thru big prints they were falling off. No other videos showed me how to move the switch for the z axis down so give me more room.
I hope this helps. Getting that bed level with the springs included has been very difficult. I have gotten a couple of good prints but I am releveling each time and it doesn't hold it well at all. I figured from all my reading springs would be the first upgrade I just didn't realize it would be day 2 of owning the printer.
Video is great - one has to get in touch with the printer to develop a feel as shown and stated in this video. One major caveat and it may have to do with unimproved springs i.e. if you haven't installed those flat springs. This point I am about to make is really a discredit to Creatlity - a small design problem they should have fixed and didn't. It causes more people to ditch 3D printing than anything else and it has to do with the bed leveling discussed in this video. Here is the problem: the z-switch is too high for the springs on the thumbwheels - it is located where the thumbwheels have maxed out the bed height and it can't reach the nozzle. That small L-shaped plastic piece that the z-home-switch is mounted is too high - the z-home switch location in the stock location makes you loosen the big thumb wheels until the bed is not rising any more. If you don't have those fancy springs, yet, take that L piece off and snip off the tiny nub that sets the position of the L piece. Now reassemble but locate the L piece about 1-2 mm LOWER than it was already. On one of the thumbwheels, if you study the range in height they offer as you adjust, you will figure out there are about five complete turns from max to min height of the bed. Moving the L piece down by about 1-2 mm puts the sweet spot of adjustment about 2.5 turns or the center position for the thumbwheels. Gives you bed up and down range now, instead of just bed down.
If I can make a suggestion. I've noticed that on my Ender 3 v2, the front right corner of the bed is higher than the other corners (perhaps the z axis is not square?). If I level the bed as suggested, that corner runs out of adjustment while it is still too close to the nozzle. I needed to adjust the z axis switch using that corner, not the front left corner as shown. I doubt that I'm the only one with a similar issue. My 2¢. Thanks for all of your videos, they are a great help to the community.
finally got my bed set up nice thanx i had the z axis end stop up too j high im hard of hearing and cant hear the click but took my time and could feel it, so nice job side note i just watched your vid on the thermister replacement and thought it should include the actual wiring of it and theres very little on utube about that, creality has one vid where they cut the old wires and splice a new thermistor on and another more indepth vid that exsplains the process pretty well even gives a good tip on pulling the wires through but still doesnt show the motherboard or how to hook up the wires
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Dude, I bought an Ender 3 V2 and leveling the bed has been an absolute torture! Since this is my first 3d printer, I searched tons of tutorials, but this video really solved all my problems! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
This video has helped me also, really the only one and I have watched many.
Ive been in the same boat as yall, i gave up after putting the upgrades on my printer. Once i buy new filament im going to try this shit again bc this video is so much simpler then the others.
@@jamal2fire154 the spirals helped the most. Makes it a bit easier to level the bed. It is the worst part. Good luck
Yes it’s taken me hours to try and level my bed this is the best video I have come across I am going to purchase some springs and go though and level agin as I need to adjust every few prints it’s the biggest pain.
Pro tip! The wrench included is actually 1.9mm so you can also use that to get your hot end about 2.0mm away from the bed as he states in the video!! Thanks for this video BTW!! It’s awesome
I’ll have to try this, thank you for the tip!!!
Will it damage the hot end? I feel like imma break it🤣.
That's a fantastic tip! I was struggling to get my z-axis stop switch at just the right height and I don't have a set of feeler gauges. I used your tip (and the others in the video), now I'm finally starting my 3D printing journey!
Also recommend to visit local hardware store or amazon and get "nice" caliper around 20-30e. I used this for verifying paper or spacers that I used leveling. It's pretty help full also when checking if mechanic prints are ok.
"If it takes you half an hour, take a half an hour"
me: *takes three days to level printer bed*
Still better than getting fed up, wasting hundreds of dollars in filament/failed prints, getting pissed, and either throwing it in the basement/garage or selling it. Next time you'll do it faster.
@@johnpsaras2488 for sure! I finally got it working, and am extremely thankful for this video to help me get there.
It is hard to get the first time but once you do it a couple time it’s gets a lot easier.
@@dejnorfthegreat1227 im on day 5 and almost a full spool of pla just trying to level. i have seen every existing leveling video, every reddit post and now starting to believe this is someho defective. my frustration is immeasurable and my week is ruined.
@@itsHec dosnt need to be perfect to print just set a low speed and hot nozzle+bed for first few layers and ur fine. I dont think the problem is the bed here if it takes u a week to fix sorry.
After being frustrated for two weeks this let me dial in my leveling in an afternoon. Thanks.
Finally someone who identifies the 2 problems I had.
1. Rubbish springs
2. Starting with bed low enough to allow enough adjustment on bed screws to get it level
I have watched about 10 Enders 3 bed levelling videos by some of the "best" people and they just skip these things
Well done👍
Thank you :)
Just one more tip. Be careful not to lean on the x-axis when adjusting the rear screws.
this needs to go up
Disabling the steppers for adjusting the bed is the worst entry in the RTFM from creality! Now I leave the steppers on and move the bed with x/y control for adjusting.
@@matneu27 I also like chep's script that goes through the corners
I used to think this was important too, but if you're getting this issue I guarantee what's more likely is your x gantry is loose and needs adjusting. My x gantry has no play it now. Also the y gantry needed tightening for me to stop bed wobbling when I cleaned it
I got the springs for my ender 3 V2. I saw them in your last video. Wow what a difference. The new springs are way better quality.
Excellent tutorial - after following this guide I was able to successfully achieve my first print on my new Ender 3 V2. Not only was I finally able to get the bed leveled, the first print "3Dbenchy" was the finest example of that particular model I have printed on any of my other printers.
Amazing work, i bought my Creality ender 3 v2 yesterday and after assembly the prints had a bad adhesion to the bed, after watching this i make perfect prints. Thank you so much!!!
I am just about to level my new V2 for the first time. The notifications came across and the timing couldn’t be better. I followed Tom’s assembly video and it helped so much- thanks Tom!
Glad it helped! :)
Spent most of the week trying to get my 3d printer to print out mini's and couldn't figure it out, my filament would NOT adhere to the plate like it should. Followed this video and replaced the springs as was suggested at the beginning and after several paper tests and making sure my bed was clean, my prints came out beautifully! Highly suggest swapping out the springs and take the time to do the paper test several times until the squares come out as they should from the bed leveling print, it's WELL worth it. Thank you!
Is there a benefit between the 20mm vs 25mm orange springs?
what a great timing. Just got my ender 3v2!!! assembling this weekend
Take a look at his Ender 3 assembly video too, this guy does some outstanding reference videos.
The better springs are a great idea if anyone isn't convinced. They come in kits of other upgrade parts a lot of the time too.
Also I had an issue where my nozzle would scrape when moving between corners even when all corners were perfectly leveled. I found that my z axis limit switch was too low and I had to have my tensioners cranked down so hard it was warping the print bed. At the same time that I put the new springs on I raised that switch and it no longer happens.
Excellent video just wish I'd seen it sooner.
I learned this through trial and error. Those yellow spring are the best cheap upgrade you can buy. I had a bl touch on my V2 which I removed because I don't need it anymore. I only need to re-level if I've changed the nozzle or did other work on the printer.
I always say righty risey and lefty lowers on those adjustments knobs lol
Great tip
Never worked for me because I can’t work out from which direction I’m looking at screw adjustment. And which bit goes to the right? Top or bottom of the screw head? 🤨😢
The most underrated comment
I needed this
@@Ebonyqwe from the top. Turn right the bed rises turn left the bed lowers
I'm going to re-level my bed tonight using this, thanks again! Appreciate all the time you take to make these videos.
Honestly, hands down the best bed levelling video out there for this type of printer.
I had a feeling those springs were no good. This video just confirms it. Thank you so much. Hopefully I can get my 1st successful print after this.
@bitflip Honestly I got em and never installed because I've been getting good print now. The belt on the Y axis wasn't tight enough for me and its like a whole new machine now. Also make sure your using the right temp. I had mine too low. I do plan on installing the springs soon because I have to relevel after like 3 big prints and that can be annoying
Fun tip: the thickness of the wrench is about 2mm. I found that lowering the nozzle until it's half the height of the wrench is perfect for leveling my Ender 3 V2. (A nickel is 1.95mm and the wrench is a bit thicker than a nickel.)
Also: I was confused with wording he used for changing the z axis sensor. So if anyone else was confused:
1. Lift the sensor up until it bottoms out
2. Then lower the sensor until you hear it click.
3. Tighten it down.
but how can something bottom out if you lifted it up? i really don't understand what this means.
@@westingtyler1 yup:)
@@westingtyler1 the aluminum tab on the sensor collapses as you lift it up, therefore that tab bottoms out.
Just re-leveled my bed using this. I got a great result! now to Re-slice a bunch of things, since it seems I'm having problems with that. Fortunately, the bed is no longer one. Thank you!
Had a 3d printer since christmas, while I had created wonderful things with it so far, leveling has always been a constant.. My next one, will be a auto leveler, bigger print bed, I think are my biggest two, some of these tips are helpful, and that z axis will always be a bane in my heart... my thermistor went on it recently, so I upgraded to a direct drive, it did a few prints nicely, but leaving blotted marks, so I may have to adjust a few things slightly however leveling as I said is a constant... I will follow these tips and try for a results on it! So thank you! Sub earned as well!
An other Tip is to remove the Bed and then remove your prints from it, because as you try to unstuck them you can ruin your bed leveling.
Thank you. That's actually how I got it messed up
So I should take off the glass first and then remove the print?
Thank you for this video. Took me a couple of tries but finally got all of the squares to print fine. The hardest part was using the paper test as I wasn't sure how snug the paper had to be with the nozzle. Using a series of trial and error, I was paying attention to one corner and had to get the 'snug' to be precisely the same on all four corners and that's how I got it to level. I enjoyed this video and the test file seems to be doing the trick when leveling the bed.
Also to note that paying attention to the skirt on the outside and how thin/thick the line is. If the skirt produces a reasonable thin line, then that's a good indicator of whether the bed is level as well.
Great video. Got my printer a few weeks ago and have been leveling between EVERY print. Followed the video. New springs are worth it. It took 4 rounds of the test print to get the bed dialed in. BAM! no more leveling between prints. THANK YOU!
Your video seems to have done the trick. I am half way through a benchy and so far so good. This video really made a difference. I did add silicone spaces instead of yellow springs.
I was really worried about bed leveling when first getting into 3D printing but it's actually not as hard as I had imagined it. I generally get eye level with the printer and as it's printing the test prints, i can adjust it lightly as it's printing to correct for spots where it was off. I have the ender 5 and most of the time I can trust it to just print new prints with no problems once it's leveled and the only time I really need to adjust it again is when I need to move it , even just to clean, if I move it i have to re-level but if I don't touch it it stays level for a really long time on its own. great video but it should be titled how to level your 3D printer bed because this really goes for most of them! The only thing I really hate about the ender5 is that the bar is right there where it starts printing so it's hard to see if the nozzle is close enough to the bed but other than that it's been a great printer as my first! I really like the way the new ones look.
Same, i got Ender 5 pro as my first printer and I only adjust bed when changing nozzle or filament just to make sure it's printing right. Glass bed also helps with that.
you probably dont care at all but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Johnathan Nicholas I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Johnathan Nicholas It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Dallas Oscar Happy to help =)
I kinda feel stupid for not realising I could move the z end switch.
This has really helped, levelling it now and ordered the spring to do it again next week XD
What do you mean?
Thanks for this video! I got the bed leveled in 2 tries. The left front side just needed a little bit up movement and it was perfect.
Because of the fulcrum/pivoting you describe at 5:33, to avoid adding confusing slack on one of the points, one should adjust two supports at once--either opposite corners in opposite directions to change the slant of the bed as needed, or adjacent corners in the same directions to raise or lower the edge between the points.
Thanks for this too! 👏
I did about 10 test prints to get everything as perfect as I could. The center square was nearly glassy smooth.
That was useful. Thanks. I took it a step further and am adjusting the opposite corners in pairs instead of going around the bed in a circular pattern. It seems to work faster for me with less frustration.
Thank you for your great tutorial. I took a different approach to the leveling part because I run out of luck twice with the glass bed and I prefer to print onto a spring steel bed with PEI coating. I have enabled in marlin firmware the manual mesh leveling and made a matrix 5x5. Then through the printer, after leveling the corners, I'm running through all the mesh points, calibrating the printer. At the end I save it in the EEPROM and add at my slicing software the M420 e1 command after the G28 command
Watched your guides when I first for my ender3 v2 4 months ago. did it. perfect prints ever since. Got the new springs for christmas. haven't been able to get it dialed in since. Then I remembered this video. Rewatched it. redownloaded the model, and started adjustments. Perfect settings after about 20 minutes. Thanks for this, and the Cura Profiles! now I'm back off to print minis' (I have a Lord of the Print Dragon in my sights, but want to do some smaller stuff first to be sure I've got the settings dialed in after the rebuild)
I tried all day to get the bed level on my son's new ender 3 V2. it wore me out. Your video saved the day. Thank you very kindly. SUBCRIBED
thank you king, i'm very intimidated by leveling (and by my 3d printer in general) but your videos are such a help!
Just want to say thanks! Got my Ender 3 V2 set up using your videos and got the bed leveled! I appreciate you making this content 👍 you’ve got my line and sub 🙂
Just wanted to say that this video set me on the right path and I got my bed leveled fairly decently after watching this.
its things like this that make me smile. Just purchased those springs but they costed around 9 bucks total after sales tax. I will install them as soon as I get them. I also purchased a all aluminum extruder for my Ender 3 V2.
I just got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2) today, and your videos helped me set it up as well as level it. Thanks for all you do. Tomorrow I start with Dragonlock :)
Great (and thanks!)
Thank you for actually describing how to set the Z-stop! I've been pulling my hair out trying to level the bed, get it perfect, and then the head crashed into the plate, or the print just wouldn't stick, and no one ever showed or described how to set that piece, just saying that you should put it on correctly! You're awesome, solved all my problems!
I am having the same issues. Yesterday printer test files no problems done about 6 then downloaded some items from Thingiverse and filiment getting dragged everywhere. Tried and tried levelling but gonna give this ago in the morning finger crossed it works
Will be getting some better springs soon. Thank you for uploading this. I had to fix my z axis first with a different video it was way bad. Then I followed your video and I'm printing a benchie right now. It looks great so far and I couldn't be happier 😊.
Another great video. Your channel has helped me so much with my Ender 3 v2!
Thanks for watching :)
I had been struggling for the last hour or so trying to level my ender 3, this did just the trick. THANK YOU!!
This is a great reference for bed leveling. I wish it had been a year earlier
Thanks for sharing the g code to test print the first layer. I figured out the problem was that I was too afraid to move the nozzle down close enough to the bed. I would have been there forever if not for being able to recognize why it failed as you clearly explained in the video.
Excellent tutorial. I adjusted the z-offset dynamically while it printed each square, setting z-offset to +0.1, 0, and -0.1. This gave me three profiles for each square for each corner to evaluate. For my printer with my leveling touch, -0.1 gave perfect results.
This printer is a NIGHTMARE. I've done all this and all 4 corners finally get somewhat level after about 12 times around - but then i check the middle - and it's like it's raised a little, there's like a slight bevel upward in the glass or bed. My cr-10 mini had the opposite problem with bed warped inward - NEVER AGAIN with this brand. Fricken headache.
Yeah I was torn between 3d Printer and laser engraver as a hobby. Seems like laser engraving has much less tinkering and upgrading involved, so I might eventually go in that direction. I'll stick with this, though. I need to get some of these upgrades to make my life easier.
Yeah I agree. I had no issue printing, two things out of the box. After that? It's been a headache. It's a double edged sword buying this printer.
i have this exact issue all corners perfect but center is different?!
This is a good step by step. I walked through it and had to file plastic on my limit switch to get in the correct position now that I’m using the new yellow springs. They don’t compress the same as stock. Also I find my right two springs when even make the bed to sit higher than the left. Think my entire bed is off. Ended up setting switch when nozzle is on left front corner and leveled from there.
Thank you for the great video very easy to follow. Ordering the springs as we speak! Got my ender V2 running a few days ago. Glad I found your channel man keep up the good work
Thanks for the link to the springs. I've been struggling with my bed moving after I adjust it. Just ordered some new springs which I hope will fix that.
I just got an Ender 3 V2 and I'm a beginner. This helped so much, thank you!
Thanks for the new video. Normally I use a BLTouch and probe the bed in 100 points to get a mesh, but the BLTouch is down and I needed to remember how to use the paper method. I went looking for your old video and found this one. Nice job, and thanks again. My test print is your Minotaur Warrior :)
The spring info is gold! Ender 3 family seems to be very flawed when it comes to bed level. It's absolutely not perfectly flat, not even with glass support does it mitigate the issue. You will have nice corners, but really high or low mid section of the bed. That happens even when you make sure the springs have the exact same length, that the overall balance of the printer is stable (that it's perfectly balanced and doesn't wobble on the flat surface) and that everything is level and belts have proper tension. It must definitely be the springs which "dance" around the bolts.
This ist one great and very helpful tutorial! The hint with the springs ist the key to easy and precise leveling of the bed. Thanks a Lot!
Thank-you for this, I've watched the video several times while bed levelling.
I want to thank you very much for this video. It help me finally get my bed level. I have had serious problems getting prints to stick. I purchased Creality 3D Pro Glass off Amazon vendor had a certificate of authenticity but nothing would stick except if it had a raft. I found it very interesting instruction say to clean the glass with Isopropyl Alcohol but with special finish that ruin it I know because I was plastic fabricator & laminator in the Aerospace Industry and Creality states on their website to heat the plate to 70 degrees then use warm water to clean. Also the glass being sold on Amazon states it's 4mm but one on Creality is 3mm. I order one on 2/24/21 will take 7 days to get here. In meantime I went to Econo Glass got plate glass 9 1/4 by 9 1/4 1/8 thick whis is 3 mm and it only cost $7 using UHU stic and your instruction and bed leveling 190x190 gcode only the left corner need to be adjusted after 10 print got it perfect and now printing buck converter case with just a skirt. I am going to stick with glass plate
Thank you! That print file was so helpful. They was the most tedious thing ever.
This photo helped make everything clear!!!!! 🙌🏾🤦🏾♂️. I was too high off the bed. I didn’t know it needed to be close enough to smush it down.
another thing that helps is having the Jyers firmware for the v2. you can heat the bed separate to the hotend so you can be more accurate. it also includes helpful manual leveling tools
Thank you for your VERY helpful videos! I got my 3V2 working tonight. Very straightforward with your instructions. Best wishes! Gord
Hey! Thank you for the tips! They were very helpful (especially the Z axis switch and the use of the wrenches as a guide), i got near perfect leveling!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. Helped me set up my Ender 3 v2 with ease. Test print came out nicely first time round.
Tip:
1. The wrench is very odd to use on the back two adjustment wheels because of spacing and the angles of the open end wrenches; a No.2 pencil is approximately the same measurement, ( run the wheel until the screw threads just show below the bottom edge of the pencil ), and it is a lot more fun to work with; then the wrench; you'll see what I mean when your try to stick it in, and hold it there while turning the wheel; no joy.
2. When you adjust the stop micro switch; I had to use the distance of a credit card; because just trying to guess 2mm kept leaving me to tight; and then it is a simple small adjustment to level from there, with enough up and down movement to level, ( ja, ja .. 25 years of military service makes you a tad OCD ).
Excellent and Actionable content; so thanks for that; you added additional useful information in this video, not found in others I have looked at, ( which are many ). For an undetermined reason, I cannot start with the paper adjustment in the home position corner; if I do, then when moving from the left front corner to the right front corner is way to high and I run out of adjustment before I can lower it enough .. I just finished using your method; but have not printed the test pattern out as of yet.
Peace
Addendum: Edit, hands down this is the best bed leveling method that I have found so far; as mentioned above, I bought the yellow bed springs but the bed continues to stay level that I have not changed the springs yet; I figured I would change them once the bed needed to be re-leveled; but it has stayed level for over two weeks now. My prints come out near perfect.
I have and undetermined issue where the print sides will be clean and then it will have a line where it looks like a cut going cross the grain around a quarter inch; on different prints it happens in different places or not at all: I don't know how to address this; maybe it is firmware and I need to update that; it doesn't matter if it is standard or high quality; it kind of looks like a uniform nozzle print error, but it is in a near perfect line or angle; maybe I can find something on rigid about it. As far as I can tell, it is not a mechanical issue; how is there no pattern to a line of errors .. baffled?
Thanks so much for this tutorial and the assembly video! I followed them both and am printing quite quickly!
Thank you so much for making this video!! I've set up my Ender 3 v2 using your other video and this one has helped me immensely. Just made my first ever 3D print thanks to you sir! Much appreciated.
I know this video is a year old but… holy hell dude THANK YOU!!! This helped me so so much.
I started powering on my ender 3 v2 first time with absolutely knowledge before, and the first thing was leveling based on this video. Took me max. 20min, and 4h later i had my 3d benchy in perfect shape!
Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I got an Ender 3 pro a few days ago and I've been struggling a bit with the calibration.
Thanks very much for this. I am completely new to all this and after watching your video on the Ender3 V2 as well I am now printing my first cookie cutter.
I've found it's key to preheat your bed to your approximate temps, but don't heat the hot end. The temperature of the bed can effect the springs, and leveling having them temp'd to the target temp seems take another variable out of the bed leveling equation.
Thank you! I'm sleeping much better now
I removed my z positions sensor, removed the tab from it, then lowered the bed as far down as I could go while still having clearance for the stepper motor and wires. I then lowered the nozzle down until it was touching the rear left corner (the corner that needs clearance), I then trammed the bed based on that corner, then repositioned the z position sensor.
Just got my ender 3 v2 and the bed leveling is a nightmare. I will try your system and use new springs. Thanks for sharing. I subbed.😎⛏⛏🔥🔥
Hope it helps!
I just discovered a neat trick. When printing a large part(s) and the brim won't stick well all around, start your PRINT with a piece of 20# paper ON THE PRINT DECK. I found that (with the plate and nozzle at working temperature; that's important) commanding the printer to "auto home", followed by "disable stepper", and careful leveling with the adjustment wheels did NOT produce the same clearance distance as when the printer ACTUALLY started printing. So, sacrifice one or two rows of the brim and do your leveling AFTER you start the print, and WHILE your part is printing. Worst case: you may have to "abort" and restart the print if leveling takes exceptionally long. The resulting brim is MUCH cleaner and adheres much better to the build plate. Hope this helps. PS yes, get better springs (or manually "stretch" them to get more range). For the money, a good printer.
Rubber vacuum line works as a great replacement for the springs. And are cheap as well.
THANK YOU. I've been confused about the initial level of compression I should have on my bed's screws (got an Ender 3) before starting the leveling process for a while now but I could never quite get a clear answer. This is SO massively helpful.
Also, totally buying some new springs.
Thank you!
This is the best Ender leveling video I've seen, thanks!
I just got an Ender 3 V2. Spring and tube upgrade was printing perfect every time it was really easy to level. Then I added a BL touch huge mistake was a pain to get working, leveled and cable management, software updates kind of suck and now I get failed prints, strings, droops and you have to run the leveling program every time I want to print, now I have to manually set my nozzle temp. Follow this video and everything will be great.
They're called die springs because they are industrial springs used in injection mold and die tooling.
Thank you, l just got my printer and your video help me a lot to level the machine
An easier method to adjusting the Z Stop switch is after you've loosened as raised the switch lay an Alan key of the size you want flat across the base of the machine, then let the switch lower until it rests on it. Tighten the bolts, remove the Alan key, and voila. 1-2mm extra clearance.
As for the heated/not heated, I just set the bed to heat up but leave the hot end off.
Best of the bed leveling videos I've seen so far, thank you! But where is the link to the gcode file for the test print please? I see the video, I see the many comments, but....?
All links are in the video description.
Thanks for all your videos new to 3d printing and have been trying very hard to even get close to how amazing your minatures look. Using cr10 v3 and not having the luck you do. Ill keep watching and hope I get there one day.
Love the video thank. Glad I found it your bed leveling print is the first print im ever doing
Thanks sir for ur clear and more detailed explanation.
Wish u all the best and successful in ur life .
Best regards.
Ahmed Ahmed
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My bed is perfectly levelled thanks to this video.
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
Hi I have an Ender 3V2 and my issue is that the aluminium heat plate is not flat and so the glass does not stay flat if not clamped very specifically. I've tried aluminium foil and tape underneath as a shim but it's really hard to get it perfect - do you have any tips for this?
I tried clipping the corners as well because my glass was "dish shaped." It kinda helped. It might not be your aluminum, it could be the glass from being center clamped so hard. I'd love to hear tips for this as well because my glass bed seems to be all over the place as far as "flatness" goes!
The bed on my Longer LK5 was a bit low, so I glue-sticked some paper shims in the middle of the aluminum bed to bring the glass up to level. It has worked well.
Thank you so much for this. I got an sc-10 shark for an early Christmas gift and was having a hard time with leveling and having the nobs to close to the edge of the screw that halfway thru big prints they were falling off. No other videos showed me how to move the switch for the z axis down so give me more room.
Many thanks for you videos! WIth this was setting up my new v2 piece of cake and first print seems good so far!
Great video, thanks.
I hope this helps. Getting that bed level with the springs included has been very difficult. I have gotten a couple of good prints but I am releveling each time and it doesn't hold it well at all. I figured from all my reading springs would be the first upgrade I just didn't realize it would be day 2 of owning the printer.
Video is great - one has to get in touch with the printer to develop a feel as shown and stated in this video.
One major caveat and it may have to do with unimproved springs i.e. if you haven't installed those flat springs.
This point I am about to make is really a discredit to Creatlity - a small design problem they should have fixed and didn't.
It causes more people to ditch 3D printing than anything else and it has to do with the bed leveling discussed in this video.
Here is the problem: the z-switch is too high for the springs on the thumbwheels - it is located where the thumbwheels have maxed out the bed height and it can't reach the nozzle.
That small L-shaped plastic piece that the z-home-switch is mounted is too high - the z-home switch location in the stock location makes you loosen the big thumb wheels until the bed is not rising any more.
If you don't have those fancy springs, yet, take that L piece off and snip off the tiny nub that sets the position of the L piece.
Now reassemble but locate the L piece about 1-2 mm LOWER than it was already.
On one of the thumbwheels, if you study the range in height they offer as you adjust, you will figure out there are about five complete turns from max to min height of the bed.
Moving the L piece down by about 1-2 mm puts the sweet spot of adjustment about 2.5 turns or the center position for the thumbwheels.
Gives you bed up and down range now, instead of just bed down.
If I can make a suggestion. I've noticed that on my Ender 3 v2, the front right corner of the bed is higher than the other corners (perhaps the z axis is not square?). If I level the bed as suggested, that corner runs out of adjustment while it is still too close to the nozzle. I needed to adjust the z axis switch using that corner, not the front left corner as shown. I doubt that I'm the only one with a similar issue. My 2¢.
Thanks for all of your videos, they are a great help to the community.
Thanks for this, Finally seem to have got it level .
finally got my bed set up nice thanx i had the z axis end stop up too j
high im hard of hearing and cant hear the click but took my time and could feel it, so nice job side note i just watched your vid on the thermister replacement and thought it should include the actual wiring of it and theres very little on utube about that, creality has one vid where they cut the old wires and splice a new thermistor on and another more indepth vid that exsplains the process pretty well even gives a good tip on pulling the wires through but still doesnt show the motherboard or how to hook up the wires
glad the intro audio isn't so loud anymore!
thank you so much, this helped me with my printer issue, thanks!
This is a lifesaver. I love you man.
me into the second week trying, one print successfully so far and rest is all elaphent