I just bought the double screw Ender upgrade kit, and now cannot disable stepper motors. I also do not have a proper manual on using the control box for my Ender 3. Just installed a new Glass bed also, so need to calibrate everything again, I suppose.?? Can you offer any assistance, please ??
@@King_James_Only It may be worth joining the discord channel, invite is in the video description, there are a lot of people on there who can help out.
I’ve had my glass bed for over a month not knowing how to install it, glad I came across your video! Will be installing it later today, hope I do it right! Thank you! 🙌🏽
Thanks for making this video. To get the magnetic layer off the plate, I heated up the bed first. I just did Prepare > Preheat ABS > Preheat ABS Bed - and that let me get it off fairly easily with minimal tearing. I did have to get it started just a bit with the putty knife tool (whatever it is) that came with the printer, because of course the bed is pretty hot. Just had to twist and pull for a minute or two, and not touch the bed for more than about half a second at a time.
Hi. Thanks for the info. I was hesitant to tell people to do that because i didnt want them to get burned. If you are careful though, it does make the process a lot easier.
This 💯, mine didn't tear at all. Did you do anything to get the residual glue off? Or just leave it. I guess it doesn't hurt anything if it was already there lol.
Just grabbed the Crealty Glass from Amazon & it had the Clips inside the Black Crealty Box..Maybe they got enuf complaints & decided to bless us with clips..lol.. Thanks for the Tips & Tricks..✌🏆
Whats up My Man i have a question for ya.. So i took the Magnetic sheet off & put the Glass on leveled it as best as i can but its not sticking. It just gets balled up under the extruder tip.. What should the Plate temp be?? 70's Usually run it at 60° and never had any issues.. Do i definitely need to use something to make it stick?? Glue Hairspray ?? I really Appreciate all the Info u have shared its been a great help..
@@-east-coast-florist I keep my bed temp at 60 with PLA. I do use bed weld though. If the bed is completely clean, and you use rubbing alcohol to clean it, you don't always need additional adhesion.
I went with a 4mm piece of scrap mirror that I found. Couldn't get the prints to stick at first but after some experimenting I discovered that PLA and PLA+ sticks just fine on glass/mirror surface, just keep the bed levelled and up to 70C hot at all times during printing.
Thank you so much. My stupid little brain could not understand why the nozzle was always scratching above the bed. I nearly gave up, then you showed how to change the height 😭 Thank you so much, I am still new to 3D printing.
Great video it helped me out a lot. I have not been at this for very long. I did have a problem with bed adhesion. I was banging my head trying to fix the problem. I kept re-leveling the bed and adjusting the bed temp (I'm using silk pla). Turns out all it took was a little bit of hair spray.
All I want to know is switching between glass and the sitter build plates do I need to re-level the bed? Is there an on the fly adjustment? PLA is great on anything ABS turns out better on glass PETG over adheres and pulls chunks of glass with it so I frequently swap depending on materials. My first instinct is to spray, Pam cooking spray… Adhesion has never been an issue. I always have too much on my end or three regardless of material temperature or surface whether I clean it or not this has caused the destruction of two plates already. Otherwise it’s great. Flexible is easier , you know glass will remain flatter without a bulge in the center I just want I just want to find something cheap at the hardware store. Something I can keep a roll in the back and pull it over. Disposable whatever I’m sure it’s simple paper might burn tape is going to get gross with heat windshield. Chip repair is not going to stand the heat.
Hi. You would want to relevel everything when switching between build plates, especially if the thickness is different. Ive always just used the magnetic or glass plates and i use bed weld sometimes as needed.
For adjusting the Z endst, the way I do it is: bed completely down, Lift Z , install the bed, loosen the level wheels until the springs are roughly half compressed. Then turn the Z rod until the nozzle touches the bed. Adjust endstop, lower the bed just a bit, Auto-home, then level the bed conventionally. No need to use the plate as placeholder.
Hi. Thanks for the details and ya that would work in most cases. I was to show a way that was easy for everyone to understand, which can be difficult sometimes.
Hi. If the bed is cleaned properly then using an adhesive isnt necessary unless you are printing smaller parts. I always mention the use of an adhesive because most people dont clean the bed properly and with standard glass it can help.
Nice video. Wouldn't heating the bed first, allowing it to cool slightly THEN peel the magnetic cover off? I would think that that would allow it to peel off in one piece.
Hi. Heating it will make it come off easier for sure. I was hesitant to say that in the video because i didnt want people to burn themselves and try to blame it on me :( .
Subbed. I've been binge watching all of your videos. Thank you! Quick question after making the adjustment for the glass. (little clicker on the side) do I need to make any further adjustments on the dial pad. (Ender Screen) Greetings from Boston!
Yes sir. You make good teacher. Been looking for video’s how clean bed ender3 max. And few other things nothing really helped. I have bl touch gonna put it on thanks
First off, I would like to thank you for making these videos. I have wrecked two Creality magnetic bases just checking the offsets with the BL touch so far and now I'm thinking of going with glass. Question is you recommend bed weld do I have to prepare the bed by spraying this on before I print. The 3d printer is it an enders 3pro version 1 or 2 as I like the coloured screen.. Cheers. Stay Safe.....
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I like using glass over the magnetic build plate, but just make sure you are careful when doing the initial level and setting the z-offset. The bed weld gets applied kinda like paint with the attached sponge. You can see where its at on the build plate, so the application is easy. You can also get multiple prints without needing to reapply it. I have the Ender 3 Pro, but I replaced the mainboard and screen. I have the SKR Mini e3 V2 and the TFT35 screen. The TFT35 screen is awesome and has a lot of logic built in to help set the z-offset.
Hi. I bought a creality glass bed, and i have yet to install it. I am not planning on removing the magnetic sticker layer (the one you peeled off). I know the risk may be that the glass bed will stay stuck pretty badly, but that's ok I'll deal with that when the time comes. My question should i install my glass bed with the creality logo facing up? Or facing down? The reason i ask this question is because I've seen some people have the logo facing down and it would adhere better. I'm not sure if i should follow that... Again, I'm planning on keeping the sticker layer so idk I'd having the glass texture stuff facing up or down will do anything for me. Thanks!
Hi. You can do it either way depending on the surface type you want. One side will be completely smooth and the other will have the little holes. That said, Creality intended it to be used with their logo, and the holes, up.
Hi. It homing in the center in normal with a auto bed level kit. The z-stop being removed doesnt make sense if all 5 wires from the cr touch get connected directly to the bltouch port on the board. You would typically only do that if your connecting the probe sensors to where the z-stop switch gets connected. Its possible they changed the firmware to account for the wiring changes though.
Hmmm? I'm interested in making my S1 Pro bed glass in order to correct the slightly warped aluminum bed plate, but I want to still use the metal flex plate also. Have you seen or heard of anyone doing that, and, do you think I'd still get the bed temps it says it is, or would I lose some heat doing that? I think if I remove the magnetic skin and then bond the glass plate directly to the aluminum plate with an epoxy, then apply a new magnetic sheet on top so I can still use the bed the same way I've been doing it. I don't have any problems with my flex plate, it's just the aluminum bed has begun to warp. I wish there was a bolt on swap out type glass bed tho!
Hi. I think what your looking at would work but your temp readings will probably be off. If you have a temp gun you could read the temp before and after making the change (wait until the printer thinks its at the set temp), then adjust the bed temp accordingly.
Have you tried a PEI print bed? It is what people are using as a compromise between glass and flexible magnetic surfaces. There are so many differences of opinion on just about everything with the Ender 3 printers it is sometimes overwhelming and confusing.
Thanks my guy. My Ender was made a few days after you posted it and I have just set it up now. Greetings from South Africa! Edit: Do you have other tutorials on set up like best practices etc?
Hi. I have a lot of videos on different mods/upgrades. What are you looking to do? Once i know that i can try to provide more guidance. That said, i do recommend adding a bltouch if you dont have one. ruclips.net/video/Xiy-oLLrB1k/видео.html
@@3DPrintscape I haven't got a btouch as yet, will look into getting one. Currently having an issue trying to get my first print. I have leveled the plate(using paper method) and auto homed etc. When I run the dog model (on the stock USB) i starts, goes to the center of the model and starts to print. The extruder doens't extrude and the nozzle is about 3mm from the surface, so what ever does extrude (after some time) is just stringy plastic
What happens if you don’t remove the magnet layer? I’ve got a big failed print to remove with many separate supports and I’ll need to remove the glass plate from the bed to remove the print but it’s stuck🤷🏼♂️
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Are you running a bltouch, is the nozzle to bed distance right, and is your bed warped at all? All of those will impact adhesion significantly.
It works pretty well for me. I usually squish the first layer a little bit. I used to use glue stick but recently have just sprayed on sugar water with a spray bottle and it works great, holds while warm and releases easy when cooled.
Can you comment on how you clean the Creality bed surface (what liquid + what towel that doesn't leave residues) so that it doesn't damage the surface? Thanks!
I went with little spring clips from Home Depot. bigger than those clips but the tips are covered in vinyl. 89 cents or something for each. Disclaimer: I know next to nothing.
Hi. I have a direct drive conversion kit, microswiss hotend, modified fan duct cover with a 5015 blower, and upgraded hardware. I have install videos for all of them as well.
I'm kind of new at this I see on your Ender 3 Pro the filament feeder is on top of the extruder. I've seen this part on Amazon. Hypothetically would that be a possibility for a regular Ender 3? That would eliminate the need for the feeder line and the 2 connectors, it would be so much easier to change the filament as well..
Hi. The best option would be to covert it to direct drive. You can use a kit, like the one i cover here ruclips.net/video/bwhEpRBpu7M/видео.html , or buy a real all in one direct drive unit.
Is it possible for the glass bed to be perfect right out of the box as well? I just got a glass bed for Christmas. The only thing i had to do was like you said make sure you move the auto home sensor with the new glass build plate. Then i just worked on getting all four sides pretty okay, ran a bed levelling program, made adjustments as needed, but i had adhesion right of the bat.
Hi. You will get good adhesion at first because the glass is clean. After a couple of prints, or it sitting collecting dust, you will need to clean it with rubbing alcohol.
hint hint at removing the magnetic bed liner heat up the bed before removing it its more easier to peel in one whole piece i v e seen on other youtube and about magnetic liner and high temps its b.s one guy on youtube tested it no issues
Hi. You are right, heating it does make it easier. I was hesitant to tell people to do that because i didnt want them to get burned (i have had issues in the past similar to that)
HI. Thanks for the tip. I wasn't sure that would make a difference or not and I was hesitant to tell people to try to remove the magnetic pad when the bed was up to temp because I didn't want anyone to get burned...
Hi. I have had this on my backlog for a while now but have been struggling to find a set of lights that I like and would recommend. I will see what I can do to speed it up.
Sorry for the delay on responding to this, it got held for review by YT. I ordered some neopixel lights over the weekend and plan on creating a video soon.
I am sorry for asking questions that might have been addressed in the video but I might have missed it. What was the purpose of lowering the bed as low as it can go? and I see that you adjusted your z stop I have mine disabled since I put the Bltouch so that step shouldn't matter right? Thanks in advance!
Hi. It allows you to be able to manually level the bed and keep tension on the springs. You dont want to level the bed but have the springs lose as it will not be level for long.
The guid on how to adjust the settings in cura for the glass bed is way too old and the folder the guide says to open (resources) but it doesn’t exist anymore.
Hi. Its been a while since ive recorded/watched this video but i dont recall there being anything in it related to Cura. You dont need to change settings in cura if your just replacing the build plate.
@@3DPrintscape you are correct that is my mistake. I was talking about the link in the description on this video. There is a how to guide on how to adjust the curea program on how to make it not run into the clips on the side of the glass, bed.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I have been trying to show more prints in the videos where it makes sense but I understand, and agree with, your feedback.
I tried installing the BL Touch and after 4 hours thinking I broke my printer and many, many videos / forums later, watched someone walk through the process of manually setting up firmware. WARNING TO PEOPLE NEW WITH 3D PRINTERS, ENDER, OR ARE NOT GREAT WITH COMPUTERS ~ DO NOT use the BL Touch unless you find someone experienced to help, or fully understand the process. The firmware on the Ender website does not work with BL Touch, and there is precious little help out there for beginners.
@@3DPrintscape me too, I was really excited to use it, but I don't know anything about compiling arduino firmware. The guy who put the video on RUclips is a legend. If you understand it, you could make a lot of money doing a course on udemy, there are not a lot of alternatives out there for beginners just getting their feet wet in 3d printing, so you'd have very little competition, just saying haha. Great video BTW, you got a sub from me!
@@ScrewtheBoxJustThink What board do you have in your printer? If its one of the newer 4.2.x boards they are 32 bit and don't need the arduino board or anything. Also, thanks for the sub.
@@3DPrintscape one of the newer 4.2 boards. Maybe I misspoke, again, I'm new lol. I did have to follow some instructions on how to modify the open source firmware file, then compile it to get my printer to work again, and this is what I meant when I spoke about arduino. I was probably wrong about that haha
Hi. That’s odd. If it's sticky, you can try to use rubbing alcohol or fingernail polish remover. Just make sure you don’t use too much of it. If that doesn’t work, you could use a razor blade but you will need to be very careful if you go that route.
Hi. It sounds like the actual build plate may be warped (which is common). A glass bed will help a little but you really need something like a crtouch to account for the warping.
@@chrustik_94 The crtouch will make adjustments on the z axis when printing based on the bed mesh. You can increase the number of probe points in the firmware for better results. If the actual aluminum build plate is warped from the factory there isnt really a way to prevent it from happening.
I tried only crtouch without manual bed leveling but the nozzle scratched the bed when I started printing but today I put a duct tape on the bottom side of the of the bed and it helped a lot so now it prints really good so I'm happy now
I left the magnetic surface and have had a glass plate for a month. Any recommendations on how to remove the glass from that surface. It’s pretty stuck on.
Hi. Honestly im not sure as ive never had the issue. I know one guy that did and he used a putty knife but it seems like that could be really challenging.
I did all of this previously and it worked great for about 2 days, but now when I print the brim will come out flawless but the actual base of the item inside that comes out like the nozzle is too far from the glass. I've checked everything and can't find a reason, any idea?
@@3DPrintscape Appreciate the help. What solved it for some reason, was removing the magnetic bottom from the plate and just using the glass. Not sure why it made such a difference, but works great now.
Have you tried printing PETG on the Creality glass? I just got the glass build plate but I have been hesitant to put it on yet because I’ve been printing PETG lately and I’ve heard stories of it sticking so badly to glass that you can ruin the surface trying to remove the print.
Hi. I havent printed PETG on it yet, i did print PETG on the basic glass one and didnt have an issue though. Make sure you use a glue stick or something similar to act as a release agent.
I don't have my Creality glass yet (on order) but I also had this concern, but from the research I've done if you actually let the glass bed cool down PETG pops off easily apparently!
@@travisr.3667 Hi. You will want to let the glass bed cool down before trying to remove the object, the same thing is true if you use PLA. I would still recommend using a release agent, like a glue stick, to start.
Hi. You do need to account for adhesion when using a glass bed, but I haven’t had any issues when using bed weld. This upgrade is really more of a preference. A lot of people have strong feelings about it (on both sides of the fence).
I just spent 5 hours trying to get anything to stick to mine. I plan to go back to the factory bed as it doesn't need any glue or additional steps to start printing. It's a shame because I was stoked to get the glass bed. Oh well.
@@Collinormous it's weird because my Ender 3v2 has a glass bed and prints lovely on it so I used the same settings on my pro with a glass bed and it fails so I'm at a loss but I'm thinking of turning the glass bed smooth side up to see if it's the texture that's making it fail.
@@kezman82a I actually did that because at least the glass is flat. Works fine! I did finally get a successful first layer with the glass bed after switching to ABS from PLA. I was also using just a generic PLA from amazon, seems that was my issue all along.
I have a few custom glass beds I'd like to send you. Maybe you could do a review on them or just use them. I put logos on them and found put yours on one if your interested.
Hi. Can you send me an email to talk about this a bit more? My email is admin@3dprintscape.com . I know you have emailed me before but wanted to make sure you had my email just in case :) .
@@3DPrintscape i tried it with and without the z stop still in, its plugged in where it should be. I tried so many different things for the firmware cause i didnt know at first there was a difference in the board but then i tried the 3 pro 4.2.2 firmware and it didnt work right, tried following a different tutorial from a guy thats pretty popular but none of it worked and i dont remember all i tried now cause that was months ago but i tried multiple firmware versions andtried editted and uneditted
@@YourPeepingTom Sounds like it may make sense to start back at the wiring. Make sure the wires are in the right order where everything is plugged in and make sure they are actually making a good connection.
Great videos really helpful 👍, just a quick question if you only tend to print with PLA for foreseeable future do you recommend taking the magnetic part off completely or put glass bed on top of it? I have the creality glass bed just doing research before I switch. Thanks
Hi. I was using a glass build plate on the pad for a bit without issues but i have had people tell me that its fused to their glass. So if you want to play it safe, i would take it off.
that i had issue with printing first layers fails because of magnetic bed layer nd yes glass plate did get stuck to it just cool it down and very carefully thin putty knife pry very little and softly as its a tempered glass i got mine off safely thereason first layer print fails is because not enough heat transfer from aluminum plate to glass plate u know magnetic bed acts as insulation …. only way is without that magnetic bed or use higher bed temp …
@@3DPrintscape yeah gonna try to stay away from them😁 glass bed upgrade is nice but takes a long time heating up. Learned one thing= level with heated bed.
@@TheTechnoaddict It would take a little longer to heat up but I don't think it was that big of a difference and ya heating the bed first is recommended.
what?! NO! DO NOT LEVEL THE BED LIKE THIS. Every time you aggressively push on that spring it pulls the other three corners out of alignment. also, why is your machine so wobbly?! bed leveling won't matter if your printer is all floppally doppally
Hi. Thats how i level my bed, some people do it differently. I go through the process a couple of times to make sure its level. In this case, i had the printer apart before the video and didnt tighten the eccentric screws.
Hi. Assuming you are using the bltouch and build your own firmware you woudl change #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 to #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5. If you are using the pre-compiled firmware from creality, i dont think you can change it.
Hi. I know some people leave the base bed in place and just put the glass on that (Just dont put the glass directly on the magnetic pad). The only issue here is the bed temp wont be accurate. If you add 5 degrees to it you should be ok though.
Hi. I didnt need have to. The temperature is read from the bottom of the build plate, so i guess the top of the glass will be a little cooler than the top of the magnetic surface but it didnt make a difference for me.
@@3DPrintscape The reason I’m asking , I just swapped out magnetic plate for glass plate and prints are not sticking , also I didn’t remove magnet plate that is glued to build plate, that might be my problem. Thank you for your response
yo man ive seen a couple of your videos and shit. you do really good and help out a lot, but just a friendly piece of advice, i think you need more white light and your videos would be a lot better. quality wise. and sorry if i sound like a dickhead cause im not trying to. i just think you could go far with the youtube thing
Hi. Thanks for the feedback, i appreciate it. I recently switched the bulbs i have above me to LED and i have been using a ring light. Any other suggestions to help improve the lighting?
@@3DPrintscape a brighter room, like white walls would probably help with the white light as well. I noticed this video quality was way better that the first video you made about the glass beds, so you’re definitely in the right direction man!
11:34 why cut there in the middle of the sentence? "Bring it down to..." cut... down to where? I have tried to watch your other videos, and you seem to have this habit of cutting out details. You have to consider, that a lot of people are watching your videos, are very new to this, and need the small details you skip over.
I cant seem to make the nuzzle touch the bed, I used the glass bed to adjust the Z like he said but the nuzzle is too high up and the bed cant raise high enough.
I hope you found this overview helpful! If you have any questions or would like other tips/tricks, just let me know in the comments.
I just bought the double screw Ender upgrade kit, and now cannot disable stepper motors.
I also do not have a proper manual on using the control box for my Ender 3.
Just installed a new Glass bed also, so need to calibrate everything again, I suppose.??
Can you offer any assistance, please ??
@@King_James_Only It may be worth joining the discord channel, invite is in the video description, there are a lot of people on there who can help out.
I’ve had my glass bed for over a month not knowing how to install it, glad I came across your video! Will be installing it later today, hope I do it right! Thank you! 🙌🏽
Glad I could help!
How's it going?
Thanks for making this video. To get the magnetic layer off the plate, I heated up the bed first. I just did Prepare > Preheat ABS > Preheat ABS Bed - and that let me get it off fairly easily with minimal tearing. I did have to get it started just a bit with the putty knife tool (whatever it is) that came with the printer, because of course the bed is pretty hot. Just had to twist and pull for a minute or two, and not touch the bed for more than about half a second at a time.
Hi. Thanks for the info. I was hesitant to tell people to do that because i didnt want them to get burned. If you are careful though, it does make the process a lot easier.
This 💯, mine didn't tear at all. Did you do anything to get the residual glue off? Or just leave it. I guess it doesn't hurt anything if it was already there lol.
@@cjgibbons5850 I believe I wiped it once with alcohol, and left what was still there. It doesn't stick to the glass bed.
Holy crap man this was awesome, I've been trying to mess with my new bed for hours. Never would of thought to adjust that lil clicker on the side
Hi. Thanks for the positive feedback :).
Thanks this helped me so much! For anyone deciding to get a glass plate, I definitely recommend it, it's a huge upgrade from the magnetic bed.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback and you're welcome!
Does the print come off easier?
@@iiFoogie It should
@@iiFoogie If it doesnt let it cool and then put it in the freezer the glass will contract and it should seperate
The adjusting for the Z-stop by the thickness of the glass bed is so simple it's actually genius. Thanks for this video!
You bet!
Just grabbed the Crealty Glass from Amazon & it had the Clips inside the Black Crealty Box..Maybe they got enuf complaints & decided to bless us with clips..lol..
Thanks for the Tips & Tricks..✌🏆
Hi. Im glad to hear they started shipping with the clips, its not like they cost much lol. Thanks for the info.
Whats up My Man i have a question for ya..
So i took the Magnetic sheet off & put the Glass on leveled it as best as i can but its not sticking.
It just gets balled up under the extruder tip..
What should the Plate temp be??
70's
Usually run it at 60° and never had any issues..
Do i definitely need to use something to make it stick?? Glue Hairspray ??
I really Appreciate all the Info u have shared its been a great help..
@@-east-coast-florist I keep my bed temp at 60 with PLA. I do use bed weld though. If the bed is completely clean, and you use rubbing alcohol to clean it, you don't always need additional adhesion.
Thanks for the Help..
I got a perfect Print after i Adjusted my Temps and My Corners..
I love 3D Prints..lol..
Addicted..💯✌
Heat up to about 45 degrees C to help the magnetic surface come off.
Hi. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you very much, your guide was really helpful! I've been struggling with moving to glass, but now I know what to do
Glad I could help!
I went with a 4mm piece of scrap mirror that I found. Couldn't get the prints to stick at first but after some experimenting I discovered that PLA and PLA+ sticks just fine on glass/mirror surface, just keep the bed levelled and up to 70C hot at all times during printing.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback/tip. A mirror is a great option if you already have one to work wiht.
@@3DPrintscape also a glue stick helps ive been told
@@JamesAnderson-fw5ew I know it does help, but I've had better luck with bed weld.
Thank you so much. My stupid little brain could not understand why the nozzle was always scratching above the bed. I nearly gave up, then you showed how to change the height 😭 Thank you so much, I am still new to 3D printing.
Hi. Im glad i was able to help out. If you run into other issues, feel free to reach out.
Great video it helped me out a lot. I have not been at this for very long. I did have a problem with bed adhesion. I was banging my head trying to fix the problem. I kept re-leveling the bed and adjusting the bed temp (I'm using silk pla). Turns out all it took was a little bit of hair spray.
Glad it helped! Hair spray works great but I prefer bed weld over it.
All I want to know is switching between glass and the sitter build plates do I need to re-level the bed? Is there an on the fly adjustment? PLA is great on anything ABS turns out better on glass PETG over adheres and pulls chunks of glass with it so I frequently swap depending on materials.
My first instinct is to spray, Pam cooking spray… Adhesion has never been an issue. I always have too much on my end or three regardless of material temperature or surface whether I clean it or not this has caused the destruction of two plates already. Otherwise it’s great. Flexible is easier , you know glass will remain flatter without a bulge in the center I just want
I just want to find something cheap at the hardware store. Something I can keep a roll in the back and pull it over. Disposable whatever I’m sure it’s simple paper might burn tape is going to get gross with heat windshield. Chip repair is not going to stand the heat.
Hi. You would want to relevel everything when switching between build plates, especially if the thickness is different. Ive always just used the magnetic or glass plates and i use bed weld sometimes as needed.
For adjusting the Z endst, the way I do it is: bed completely down, Lift Z , install the bed, loosen the level wheels until the springs are roughly half compressed. Then turn the Z rod until the nozzle touches the bed. Adjust endstop, lower the bed just a bit, Auto-home, then level the bed conventionally.
No need to use the plate as placeholder.
Hi. Thanks for the details and ya that would work in most cases. I was to show a way that was easy for everyone to understand, which can be difficult sometimes.
thank you! just got my new glass bed, this helped alot!
Glad I could help!
My creality board came with clips. I got mine in late January of this year, 2022. It maybe something they are adding now.
Hi. Thanks for the info, it does sound like they are shipping with the clips now.
Umm glass is an insulator, a metal flex plate will distribute and heat faster at the print contact surface. You can easily flatten a heat bed.
Hi. Thanks for the tip, i will look into them.
DO you HAVE to remove the magnetic build plate sticker?
Hi. You dont have to but you risk it fusing to the glass. I didnt have this issue myself, but i know a couple people reported it.
Using my new glass bed now. No frigging glue or hair spray. Works great at PLA 210/70 C temp. Why do people say you need to put shit on the bed first?
Hi. If the bed is cleaned properly then using an adhesive isnt necessary unless you are printing smaller parts. I always mention the use of an adhesive because most people dont clean the bed properly and with standard glass it can help.
Just bought a glass bed from Creality and they are providing the clips now.
Hi. Im glad to hear they started shipping with the clips, its not like they cost much lol. Thanks for the info.
I bought my creality glass bed in 2022 and it does come with the clips now. just an FYI.
Hi. Thats great, im glad they started adding them.
@@3DPrintscape thanks for the reply, you rock.
@@Thedudeman8282 You're Welcome
Use a blow dryer to heat the adhesive. Should peel off rather easily.
Hi. Nice tip, thanks.
Nice video. Wouldn't heating the bed first, allowing it to cool slightly THEN peel the magnetic cover off? I would think that that would allow it to peel off in one piece.
Hi. Heating it will make it come off easier for sure. I was hesitant to say that in the video because i didnt want people to burn themselves and try to blame it on me :( .
Subbed. I've been binge watching all of your videos. Thank you! Quick question after making the adjustment for the glass. (little clicker on the side) do I need to make any further adjustments on the dial pad. (Ender Screen) Greetings from Boston!
Hi, thanks for the sub. No adjustments need to be made on the software for the bed. The printer doesnt actually care what its printing on.
@@3DPrintscape Thank you ! Appreciate the quick response! Keep up the good work! A+
Yes sir. You make good teacher. Been looking for video’s how clean bed ender3 max. And few other things nothing really helped. I have bl touch gonna put it on thanks
Awesome, thank you!
The magnetic layer is easier to get off with it heated. Just dont burn your hands. Shouldnt be that hot tho lol
Hi, ya I know. I was hesitant to bring that up because I didn’t want people to burn themselves and blame it on me lol.
First off, I would like to thank you for making these videos.
I have wrecked two Creality magnetic bases just checking the offsets with the BL touch so far and now I'm thinking of going with glass.
Question is you recommend bed weld do I have to prepare the bed by spraying this on before I print.
The 3d printer is it an enders 3pro version 1 or 2 as I like the coloured screen..
Cheers. Stay Safe.....
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I like using glass over the magnetic build plate, but just make sure you are careful when doing the initial level and setting the z-offset. The bed weld gets applied kinda like paint with the attached sponge. You can see where its at on the build plate, so the application is easy. You can also get multiple prints without needing to reapply it. I have the Ender 3 Pro, but I replaced the mainboard and screen. I have the SKR Mini e3 V2 and the TFT35 screen. The TFT35 screen is awesome and has a lot of logic built in to help set the z-offset.
U have 2 heat the bed to 60 to get the mag bed off with the adhesive...ive done it 3 times so far with the same result . no putty knife needed
Hi. Thanks for the tip. I was hesitant to recommend that because i didnt want anyone to get burned and try to blame it on me :).
@@3DPrintscape ya i understand totally .
Hi. I bought a creality glass bed, and i have yet to install it. I am not planning on removing the magnetic sticker layer (the one you peeled off). I know the risk may be that the glass bed will stay stuck pretty badly, but that's ok I'll deal with that when the time comes.
My question should i install my glass bed with the creality logo facing up? Or facing down? The reason i ask this question is because I've seen some people have the logo facing down and it would adhere better. I'm not sure if i should follow that... Again, I'm planning on keeping the sticker layer so idk I'd having the glass texture stuff facing up or down will do anything for me.
Thanks!
Hi. You can do it either way depending on the surface type you want. One side will be completely smooth and the other will have the little holes. That said, Creality intended it to be used with their logo, and the holes, up.
@@3DPrintscape Thank you! Have you ever placed the logo facing down?
@@nextlvlroy Ya, ive used it a couple of times that way but I have other smooth glass beds that I use now if that's what im looking for.
The CR touch instructions say to remove the z stop wiring. As soon as I put the CR touch in, the printer homes z in the center now.
Hi. It homing in the center in normal with a auto bed level kit. The z-stop being removed doesnt make sense if all 5 wires from the cr touch get connected directly to the bltouch port on the board. You would typically only do that if your connecting the probe sensors to where the z-stop switch gets connected. Its possible they changed the firmware to account for the wiring changes though.
@@3DPrintscape yea I unplugged the z stop and haven't had any issues. The cr touch works great! It was easy to set up and is a huge hassle saver.
@@WatsitTooyah Cool, good to know. I was looking at buying one to compare to the bltouch.
Hmmm?
I'm interested in making my S1 Pro bed glass in order to correct the slightly warped aluminum bed plate, but I want to still use the metal flex plate also.
Have you seen or heard of anyone doing that, and, do you think I'd still get the bed temps it says it is, or would I lose some heat doing that?
I think if I remove the magnetic skin and then bond the glass plate directly to the aluminum plate with an epoxy, then apply a new magnetic sheet on top so I can still use the bed the same way I've been doing it.
I don't have any problems with my flex plate, it's just the aluminum bed has begun to warp.
I wish there was a bolt on swap out type glass bed tho!
Hi. I think what your looking at would work but your temp readings will probably be off. If you have a temp gun you could read the temp before and after making the change (wait until the printer thinks its at the set temp), then adjust the bed temp accordingly.
Really helpful and well-presented video.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback :).
Have you tried a PEI print bed? It is what people are using as a compromise between glass and flexible magnetic surfaces. There are so many differences of opinion on just about everything with the Ender 3 printers it is sometimes overwhelming and confusing.
Hi. I have a PEI build plate on my Tax 6 and it works great but it can get damaged easily. I have not tried it with my Ender 3.
Thanks my guy. My Ender was made a few days after you posted it and I have just set it up now.
Greetings from South Africa!
Edit: Do you have other tutorials on set up like best practices etc?
Hi. I have a lot of videos on different mods/upgrades. What are you looking to do? Once i know that i can try to provide more guidance. That said, i do recommend adding a bltouch if you dont have one. ruclips.net/video/Xiy-oLLrB1k/видео.html
@@3DPrintscape I haven't got a btouch as yet, will look into getting one.
Currently having an issue trying to get my first print.
I have leveled the plate(using paper method) and auto homed etc.
When I run the dog model (on the stock USB) i starts, goes to the center of the model and starts to print.
The extruder doens't extrude and the nozzle is about 3mm from the surface, so what ever does extrude (after some time) is just stringy plastic
lmao, each day I progress a little further.
@@moosesnWoop It sounds like the bed is just too low. Go through the leveling process again after you auto home it.
Still getting to grips with it
Can I use glue when using abs on a glass bed?
Hi. Ya you can, and will probably need to, use glue. ABS doesnt stick well to glass without adhesion.
What happens if you don’t remove the magnet layer? I’ve got a big failed print to remove with many separate supports and I’ll need to remove the glass plate from the bed to remove the print but it’s stuck🤷🏼♂️
Hi. Its possible that it will fuse to the glass build plate.
Have you upgraded the Filament roller yet to one of the bearing based designs?
Hi. I have not. Is that something you would be interest in seeing a video on?
@@3DPrintscape I would be.
@@BigHonkinGoose Hi, I ended up making the video, you can see it here. ruclips.net/video/-qIw-UNs9mY/видео.html
I'm brand new to 3d printing and every time I try to level the bed with a glass plate something is off right now my x and y offsets are off balance
Hi. This video may help with the leveling. ruclips.net/video/hKVJKTDp_9k/видео.html
This glass bed doesn't work at all for me. Even PLA doesn't stick on it. It's pretty flat with no warping, but a total waste of money in adhesion.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Are you running a bltouch, is the nozzle to bed distance right, and is your bed warped at all? All of those will impact adhesion significantly.
It works pretty well for me. I usually squish the first layer a little bit. I used to use glue stick but recently have just sprayed on sugar water with a spray bottle and it works great, holds while warm and releases easy when cooled.
@@bobthudpucker7730 Thanks for the tip, i haven't tried sugar water before.
I've had my glass bed just laying around, so thanks !
Glad I could help!
Do you have to remove the magnetic film over the plate or can you just leave it
Hi. I would recommend removing it. I didnt have any issues in my testing but i heard reports of people having it fuse to the bottom of the glass.
@@3DPrintscape ok thanks
Can you comment on how you clean the Creality bed surface (what liquid + what towel that doesn't leave residues) so that it doesn't damage the surface? Thanks!
Hi. I use standard rubbing alcohol and paper towels, or the rubbing alcohol pads.
My print is off centered. How do I adjust the dimensions to match the new bed.
Hi, The size of the glass bed should be the same. If its not, you can change the size in cura, i just dont think its needed.
I went with little spring clips from Home Depot. bigger than those clips but the tips are covered in vinyl. 89 cents or something for each. Disclaimer: I know next to nothing.
Hi. The vinyl on the clips could be a problem. I would go with all medal ones.
@@3DPrintscape Oh. From the heat of the bed?
@@ulmwurttemberg1682 ya, i think that may end up being an issue. It will depend on the type of vinyl though.
@@3DPrintscape Ok. Wow. I didn't consider that at all. I'll have to monitor that. Or just cut the vinyl off to be safe. Thanks, man. Appreciated.
what is that extruder setup? that seems like it would be sweet!
Hi. I have a direct drive conversion kit, microswiss hotend, modified fan duct cover with a 5015 blower, and upgraded hardware. I have install videos for all of them as well.
I'm kind of new at this I see on your Ender 3 Pro the filament feeder is on top of the extruder. I've seen this part on Amazon. Hypothetically would that be a possibility for a regular Ender 3? That would eliminate the need for the feeder line and the 2 connectors, it would be so much easier to change the filament as well..
Hi. The best option would be to covert it to direct drive. You can use a kit, like the one i cover here ruclips.net/video/bwhEpRBpu7M/видео.html , or buy a real all in one direct drive unit.
@@3DPrintscape Thanks for the reply and the info.
I use prusa slicer and have the glass bed with clips but how could I make a no print zone with the bed clips so it does not collide? Thanks
Hi. Im not familiar enough with the Prusa slicer to be able to help here, sorry.
Is it possible for the glass bed to be perfect right out of the box as well? I just got a glass bed for Christmas. The only thing i had to do was like you said make sure you move the auto home sensor with the new glass build plate. Then i just worked on getting all four sides pretty okay, ran a bed levelling program, made adjustments as needed, but i had adhesion right of the bat.
Hi. You will get good adhesion at first because the glass is clean. After a couple of prints, or it sitting collecting dust, you will need to clean it with rubbing alcohol.
What are your thoughts on a Polypropylene build plate? How does it compare to glass or the magnetic build surface?
Hi. I haven't used them. I have used PEI build plates and they work well but im not sure if either of them is worth the extra work/cost.
Just got a glass bed! Only because my stock one got scratched, I forgot to level it
Hi. How are you liking the glass bed so far?
@@3DPrintscape it works perfectly! Thanks for the great tutorial man. Prints so much smoother!
@@Old_SDC Awesome, im glad to hear that.
Your title says Ender 3 Pro, but you have a touchscreen with colored icons. My 3 Pro doesn't have that. Is it an upgrade?
Hi. Ya thats the TFT35 touch screen.
hint hint at removing the magnetic bed liner heat up the bed before removing it its more easier to peel in one whole piece i v e seen on other youtube and about magnetic liner and high temps its b.s one guy on youtube tested it no issues
Hi. You are right, heating it does make it easier. I was hesitant to tell people to do that because i didnt want them to get burned (i have had issues in the past similar to that)
@@3DPrintscape of course wear a glove with grip pad
Hey I tried the restricted areas in Cura code from your website, but it didn't work. When I open up Cura it doesn't even show the Ender 3 Pro profile.
Hi. It sounds like there is an issue with the profile file. Try to revert your changes and check to see if it shows up.
Also what do you recommend for the glass before a print job? Just wipe down with rubbing alcohol?
Hi. I use rubbing alcohol to clean the glass and tend to use bed weld to help with adhesion, though thats optional.
I heated my bed before i removed the magnet layer. Had no issue
HI. Thanks for the tip. I wasn't sure that would make a difference or not and I was hesitant to tell people to try to remove the magnetic pad when the bed was up to temp because I didn't want anyone to get burned...
Can´t you make a video how to get led to work on the SKR Mini E3 v2 0 ?? thank you for a god job
Hi. I have had this on my backlog for a while now but have been struggling to find a set of lights that I like and would recommend. I will see what I can do to speed it up.
@@3DPrintscapeI've been looking at this guy here. but i can not make it work ruclips.net/video/hOXQE53y6ho/видео.html
Sorry for the delay on responding to this, it got held for review by YT. I ordered some neopixel lights over the weekend and plan on creating a video soon.
cool touch screen. any info about that whole mod?
Hi. That one is the tft35. I have videos covering the screen, install, firmware upgrades, etc.
@@3DPrintscape thanks ya. i'm gonna go look for those now
I am sorry for asking questions that might have been addressed in the video but I might have missed it. What was the purpose of lowering the bed as low as it can go? and I see that you adjusted your z stop I have mine disabled since I put the Bltouch so that step shouldn't matter right? Thanks in advance!
Hi. It allows you to be able to manually level the bed and keep tension on the springs. You dont want to level the bed but have the springs lose as it will not be level for long.
@@3DPrintscape Thanks for the reply! I went ahead and lowered the bed as you suggested after putting the glass bed on this morning thanks again
The guid on how to adjust the settings in cura for the glass bed is way too old and the folder the guide says to open (resources) but it doesn’t exist anymore.
Hi. Its been a while since ive recorded/watched this video but i dont recall there being anything in it related to Cura. You dont need to change settings in cura if your just replacing the build plate.
@@3DPrintscape you are correct that is my mistake. I was talking about the link in the description on this video. There is a how to guide on how to adjust the curea program on how to make it not run into the clips on the side of the glass, bed.
@@ramdog1189 Ah ok. That article is a bit old so i will review it. Thanks for pointing it out.
@@3DPrintscape ofc. Tysm for making this video!
The creality one I Got does have clips.
Hi. Good to know, thanks.
@@3DPrintscape I do think It was an Amazon reseller but brand new in box with clips
@@Doctoranthetardis Thats probably the case.
You def need to make some vids where you show some actual prints.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I have been trying to show more prints in the videos where it makes sense but I understand, and agree with, your feedback.
I tried installing the BL Touch and after 4 hours thinking I broke my printer and many, many videos / forums later, watched someone walk through the process of manually setting up firmware. WARNING TO PEOPLE NEW WITH 3D PRINTERS, ENDER, OR ARE NOT GREAT WITH COMPUTERS ~ DO NOT use the BL Touch unless you find someone experienced to help, or fully understand the process. The firmware on the Ender website does not work with BL Touch, and there is precious little help out there for beginners.
Hi. Sorry you ran into issues with the bltouch.
@@3DPrintscape me too, I was really excited to use it, but I don't know anything about compiling arduino firmware. The guy who put the video on RUclips is a legend. If you understand it, you could make a lot of money doing a course on udemy, there are not a lot of alternatives out there for beginners just getting their feet wet in 3d printing, so you'd have very little competition, just saying haha. Great video BTW, you got a sub from me!
@@ScrewtheBoxJustThink What board do you have in your printer? If its one of the newer 4.2.x boards they are 32 bit and don't need the arduino board or anything. Also, thanks for the sub.
@@3DPrintscape one of the newer 4.2 boards. Maybe I misspoke, again, I'm new lol. I did have to follow some instructions on how to modify the open source firmware file, then compile it to get my printer to work again, and this is what I meant when I spoke about arduino. I was probably wrong about that haha
Problem when I tore the magnetic surface off I got this sticky stuff below it. It’s a blackish gray color and I don’t know how to get it off?
Hi. That’s odd. If it's sticky, you can try to use rubbing alcohol or fingernail polish remover. Just make sure you don’t use too much of it. If that doesn’t work, you could use a razor blade but you will need to be very careful if you go that route.
@@3DPrintscape Thank you that was very helpful
I have a problem with my bed adhesion because the corners are higher than the middle and sides but I don't know how that happened and how I can fix it
Hi. It sounds like the actual build plate may be warped (which is common). A glass bed will help a little but you really need something like a crtouch to account for the warping.
CrTouch is autoleveling right? If yes then I tried it but I have the same problem
But let's say I fix it how can I prevent it from happening again?
@@chrustik_94 The crtouch will make adjustments on the z axis when printing based on the bed mesh. You can increase the number of probe points in the firmware for better results. If the actual aluminum build plate is warped from the factory there isnt really a way to prevent it from happening.
I tried only crtouch without manual bed leveling but the nozzle scratched the bed when I started printing but today I put a duct tape on the bottom side of the of the bed and it helped a lot so now it prints really good so I'm happy now
I left the magnetic surface and have had a glass plate for a month. Any recommendations on how to remove the glass from that surface. It’s pretty stuck on.
Hi. Honestly im not sure as ive never had the issue. I know one guy that did and he used a putty knife but it seems like that could be really challenging.
@@3DPrintscape I probably got it off the same day I sent the comment, it was just a pain. I’ve been loving the glass bed though
@@sethlaske6338 Im glad you were able to get it off. What did you end up doing to separate the glass from the magnetic pad?
I did all of this previously and it worked great for about 2 days, but now when I print the brim will come out flawless but the actual base of the item inside that comes out like the nozzle is too far from the glass. I've checked everything and can't find a reason, any idea?
Hi. It sounds like your e-steps may be off. Here is a video that covers calibrating them. ruclips.net/video/_js-xFvznxU/видео.html
@@3DPrintscape Appreciate the help. What solved it for some reason, was removing the magnetic bottom from the plate and just using the glass. Not sure why it made such a difference, but works great now.
Hi! This may be a silly question, But I can remove the thin film over the glass bed before installing right? thanks!!
Hi. It should be just the glass. If there is a film on it, that would get removed.
@@3DPrintscape thank you!
Have you tried printing PETG on the Creality glass? I just got the glass build plate but I have been hesitant to put it on yet because I’ve been printing PETG lately and I’ve heard stories of it sticking so badly to glass that you can ruin the surface trying to remove the print.
Hi. I havent printed PETG on it yet, i did print PETG on the basic glass one and didnt have an issue though. Make sure you use a glue stick or something similar to act as a release agent.
I don't have my Creality glass yet (on order) but I also had this concern, but from the research I've done if you actually let the glass bed cool down PETG pops off easily apparently!
@@travisr.3667 Hi. You will want to let the glass bed cool down before trying to remove the object, the same thing is true if you use PLA. I would still recommend using a release agent, like a glue stick, to start.
Old magnetic builld plate comes off alot easier if you heat the bed lol
Hi. Thanks for the tip. I was hesitant to recommend that in the video because I didn't want people to burn themselves.
If the bed is still warm it all comes off in one peice
Hi. Cool, thanks for sharing this.
I tried a glass bed and never had a successful print so went back to magnetic and success again.
Hi. You do need to account for adhesion when using a glass bed, but I haven’t had any issues when using bed weld. This upgrade is really more of a preference. A lot of people have strong feelings about it (on both sides of the fence).
I just spent 5 hours trying to get anything to stick to mine. I plan to go back to the factory bed as it doesn't need any glue or additional steps to start printing. It's a shame because I was stoked to get the glass bed. Oh well.
@@Collinormous it's weird because my Ender 3v2 has a glass bed and prints lovely on it so I used the same settings on my pro with a glass bed and it fails so I'm at a loss but I'm thinking of turning the glass bed smooth side up to see if it's the texture that's making it fail.
@@Collinormous tried putting factory bed on to the glass bed? I will try it myself tomorrow 😂
@@kezman82a I actually did that because at least the glass is flat. Works fine! I did finally get a successful first layer with the glass bed after switching to ABS from PLA. I was also using just a generic PLA from amazon, seems that was my issue all along.
I have a few custom glass beds I'd like to send you. Maybe you could do a review on them or just use them. I put logos on them and found put yours on one if your interested.
Hi. Can you send me an email to talk about this a bit more? My email is admin@3dprintscape.com . I know you have emailed me before but wanted to make sure you had my email just in case :) .
I have a bltouch but nothing I do makes it work properly
Hi. How is it wired and what firmware are you using?
@@3DPrintscape i tried it with and without the z stop still in, its plugged in where it should be. I tried so many different things for the firmware cause i didnt know at first there was a difference in the board but then i tried the 3 pro 4.2.2 firmware and it didnt work right, tried following a different tutorial from a guy thats pretty popular but none of it worked and i dont remember all i tried now cause that was months ago but i tried multiple firmware versions andtried editted and uneditted
@@YourPeepingTom Sounds like it may make sense to start back at the wiring. Make sure the wires are in the right order where everything is plugged in and make sure they are actually making a good connection.
Great videos really helpful 👍, just a quick question if you only tend to print with PLA for foreseeable future do you recommend taking the magnetic part off completely or put glass bed on top of it? I have the creality glass bed just doing research before I switch. Thanks
Hi. I was using a glass build plate on the pad for a bit without issues but i have had people tell me that its fused to their glass. So if you want to play it safe, i would take it off.
that i had issue with printing first layers fails because of magnetic bed layer nd yes glass plate did get stuck to it just cool it down and very carefully thin putty knife pry very little and softly as its a tempered glass i got mine off safely thereason first layer print fails is because not enough heat transfer from aluminum plate to glass plate u know magnetic bed acts as insulation …. only way is without that magnetic bed or use higher bed temp …
How do you set up the slicer for not hitting the clips that hold the glass plate?
Hi. Cura has disallowed zones enabled by default, so i havent had any issues. That said. i try to avoid those areas.
@@3DPrintscape yeah gonna try to stay away from them😁 glass bed upgrade is nice but takes a long time heating up. Learned one thing= level with heated bed.
@@TheTechnoaddict It would take a little longer to heat up but I don't think it was that big of a difference and ya heating the bed first is recommended.
Will this work on the Ender 3 V2? Thanks
Hi. Ya it should.
what?! NO! DO NOT LEVEL THE BED LIKE THIS. Every time you aggressively push on that spring it pulls the other three corners out of alignment.
also, why is your machine so wobbly?! bed leveling won't matter if your printer is all floppally doppally
Hi. Thats how i level my bed, some people do it differently. I go through the process a couple of times to make sure its level. In this case, i had the printer apart before the video and didnt tighten the eccentric screws.
I don't understand why so much leveling with BLT.
Hi. I still try to have the bed somewhat level to reduce the amount of work the BLTouch needs to do. It can only account for so much.
Woah, what firmware made your printers screen look so nice?
Hi. That's not the stock screen, its the TFT35 touch screen but I like it a lot. If you have an SKR Mini, its well worth the upgrade.
@@3DPrintscape thanks for responding! I'll look into it
@@Chief-CO You're welcome
how would you increase the grid from 3 to ...say 5 ?
Hi. Assuming you are using the bltouch and build your own firmware you woudl change #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 to #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5. If you are using the pre-compiled firmware from creality, i dont think you can change it.
@@3DPrintscape thanks!..trying to go thru it with you compile vid
@@hungoo1241 You're Welcome! If you run into issues you can reach out here or on discord. discord.gg/Bu94EYVkrU
I don't know if I should install a glass bed because I don't want to peel of the magnetic surface or what it is
Hi. I know some people leave the base bed in place and just put the glass on that (Just dont put the glass directly on the magnetic pad). The only issue here is the bed temp wont be accurate. If you add 5 degrees to it you should be ok though.
Thanks
But if the glass bed is really good then I wouldn't use the magnetic one anyway, or should I?
Honestly, it depends on what your printing. If its just PLA the normal one is fine. @@chrustik_94
So if I am also printing with abs then I should buy the glass one?
It's amazing how bad the provided bed material is... this magnetic stuff with a basic PEI sheet is just junk.
Hi. I agree, but it works decently well for PLA.
do you have to raise the temperature of the bed at all?
Hi. I didnt need have to. The temperature is read from the bottom of the build plate, so i guess the top of the glass will be a little cooler than the top of the magnetic surface but it didnt make a difference for me.
@@3DPrintscape
The reason I’m asking , I just swapped out magnetic plate for glass plate and prints are not sticking , also I didn’t remove magnet plate that is glued to build plate, that might be my problem.
Thank you for your response
@@Hristosgl You could try to bump the temp up 10 degrees to see if that makes a difference.
yo man ive seen a couple of your videos and shit. you do really good and help out a lot, but just a friendly piece of advice, i think you need more white light and your videos would be a lot better. quality wise. and sorry if i sound like a dickhead cause im not trying to. i just think you could go far with the youtube thing
Hi. Thanks for the feedback, i appreciate it. I recently switched the bulbs i have above me to LED and i have been using a ring light. Any other suggestions to help improve the lighting?
@@3DPrintscape a brighter room, like white walls would probably help with the white light as well. I noticed this video quality was way better that the first video you made about the glass beds, so you’re definitely in the right direction man!
@@doobied816 Got it, thanks for the tips.
is someone standing by the camera with a gun or why does he act like he is about to crap himself
Hi. I was pretty nervous doing the first dozen or so videos, i believe i have gotten better though.
11:34 why cut there in the middle of the sentence? "Bring it down to..." cut... down to where? I have tried to watch your other videos, and you seem to have this habit of cutting out details. You have to consider, that a lot of people are watching your videos, are very new to this, and need the small details you skip over.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I try to provide as much detail as possible but i will work on that more.
I cant seem to make the nuzzle touch the bed, I used the glass bed to adjust the Z like he said but the nuzzle is too high up and the bed cant raise high enough.
Hi. You may have adjusted the z stop too high.
Heat = no pain easy peel
Hi. That is true, i should have mentioned it in the video but was afraid someone would burn themselves. Thanks for sharing.
Since the dude doesn’t get to the god damn point. Video starts at 6:20
tips for using paper to level. FOr me is the worse thing ever
Hi. Thanks for the tip.