Ender 3 build surface comparison: Stock vs glass vs Easy Peelzy magnetic sheet
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
- Upgrading your build surface is easy and relatively inexpensive Here I present two aftermarket options: tempered glass and Easy Peelzy removable magnetic surface.
In this video I test out both and make a fair comparison between them with the standard fake Buildtak sheet.
I will be giving away an XL Easy Peelzy sheet to one of my Patrons at the start of next month!
Purchase the Ender 3 from these links:
Ender 3 Pro Banggood ($30 off with coupon 1d1c08): bit.ly/2OUcEyS
Ender 3 Banggood (US warehouse, Coupon: f2bf59): bit.ly/2Efoi6B
Ender 3 Pro Amazon: amzn.to/2DpkbEs
Ender 3 Amazon: amzn.to/2xyJ23s
Ender 3X (glass bed version): amzn.to/2I7dG85
Creality glass bed from Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/sNEWB1I
Easy Peelzy 300x300mm sheet: www.3d-easy.xyz/store/p3/Easy...
Creality version of Easy Peelzy: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/vEyJaXQ
Thermal pads (would need to get multiple an cut to size): amzn.to/2weE4bv
PCB ruler: www.banggood.com/1Pcs-25cm-Mu...
With some help from my friend Andrew I believe I have optimised a microphone I had from the start and now have the clearest audio I've ever had on the channel. Let me know if you agree!
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Gearbest affiliate link (help support the channel): www.gearbest.com/?lkid=13807527
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #ender3 #upgrades
Your videos are by far the most helpful on the internet. It doesn't have any unnecessary stuff, and all the usefull stuff! thank you!
Hey Michael, just did this test myself this week after receiving the Creality PEI glass. Really enjoy your videos with printing and other general making. I share a lot of similar interests with you, so it's refreshing to see a well ran channel with great content!
I have all three surfaces, my Ender 3 came with the rough base plus a glass, never had to use the glass (I print mostly PLA). But the rough plate is a bit hard to snap things off and after awhile of using the scrapper to get the prints off and the brim around the print, the surfaces pretty much lost the roughness and the prints started to not stick...
So I bought one of those magnetic beds that were made for Ender 3 (they are really good, even came with a small extension in one side to be easier to remove), and i have to say, best upgrade ever! Way easier to remove the prints, any excess material that is stuck/glued to the surface i don´t have to use the scrapper, so the surface remains pretty much the same for much longer then a regular bed.
I recommend getting it 100%, it will make your printing life much easier.
I recommend against it. I have the official magnetic bed on E3Pro and the top layer split when removing a small print only after having it for just over 2 weeks. I'm looking to go glass.
@@Ziplock9000 have you decided on anything? I ordered a glass bed with my e3pro because I had heard about the issue you had. I have yet to receive it but after watching some videos the glass bed can sacrifice quality. looking forward to testing out both when i receive it, maybe i'll just use the official one until it fails...
@@phenomta4236 The official glass bed arrived 2 days ago, but I've not tried it yet. Yes it can introduce ringing due to the extra mass. But you can slow the print speed down. Most people think it's a worthwhile sacrifice. I may end up using both.
Good video TT. I love that you do alot with the ender3
Thorough and straightforward. I converted my Ender's bed to a magnetic bed similar to the Prusa MK3 for about the same price as the Peelzy, but I have the advantage of being able to print ABS.
Sounds like a good solution.
Hi Michael, you missed possibly the cheapest/best one. I use 3mm picture frame glass on my E3. In fact I have two pieces that are exactly 235mm squares. They cost me the price of two thrift store picture frames ($2 each) and a $3 glass cutter to cut them down. Yes, I use Aquanet but my process is to clean the glass off from time to time and then lightly spray Aquanet over them while I hold them over the sink. Yes, the glass is fragile but if you can wash up a drinking glass I think you'll survive. The benefit of using this type of glass is that it heats up and cools down very quickly because it's 3mm . The surface is great to print on and prints fall off as soon as it cools down. Because I have two of them I mount and demount them as soon as the print is finished. Another benefit is that because I remove the glass with the print attached I don't disturb the level of the printer. I haven't had to level my E3 in over a month and I don't see any reason to fit auto level. Picture frame glass and hairspray, go figure.......
That is very similar to the setup I used on my Solidoodle 2 for many years. I purchased cheap offcuts from a local framing shop. My trouble was the small 150 x 150mm bed made it hard to clip the glass on. On the Ender 3 that's not really an issue.
I use a 3mm glass plate - just ordinary soda-lime "window" glass. I had to adjust the height of my Z-switch to achieve bed-levelling and add 10°C to bed temperature (eg 70°C) to compensate for heat dissipation. Allow a little time for bed to heat up and - check with laser thermometer for 60° in the middle of the bed and one or two degrees less at the sides. For adhesion I use a solution of table salt as described here - www.uantwerpen.be/images/uantwerpen/container11343/files/bonding_pla_with_salt_water_v20160713.pdf This works really well. My models stick perfectly and just pop off the plate when cool. No more glue or hairspray !
Boroscilicate glass isn't that expensive and it'll withstand the constant rise and fall in temperature. I have a sheet lying next to me for when I want to switch to another filament.
Glad you mentioned it was 3mm glass! I got a piece of picture frame glass that was closer to 1.5mm, and within 20 hours of printing it shattered... Got a 3mm one and it's been working great for over 500 hours!
Huh, good note, thanks! :thinking emoji:
Thank you very much Michael for this review on different build surfaces. I just ordered an ender myself but I have 2 Anet's I think I might try the Easypeelzy on one of them. I'm printing on a Vetex Builtak stuck on glass for leveling and it's been working pretty well. I imagine you can stick the Easypeelzy on the class too.
Thanks for the information, I've been considering getting a new surface and this info helps me decide ... Thanks
I went next level. Put glas from a picture frame in between the bed and the creality easy prealsy surface.
The magnet is strong enough to keep it in place and the glass makes surface more level
I had lots of problems with my Ender 6's warped bed. Another you-tuber suggested a mirror for the bed as these are always flat to keep the image from warping. This works. They were ridiculously cheep and made to measure from a local glazier, I bought 3 so I can be printing while removing prints and cleaning.
Michael, great video. For my Ender 3 I am using a Polypropylene Build Plate from Mamorubot. Bought it from Tiny Machines 3D. I really like it, and they sell it all ready sized for the Ender 3. It is used similar to glass where you attach it with binder clips, but do not need any tape, glue, etc. The surface grips the print and when cooled releases. It is pretty awesome. Oh, also I love those timelapse videos, I'm trying to get my settings on my Octopi to get that same smooth timelapse.
I have the official creality glass bed and it’s so great. If I wake up to a print that’s been done for awhile, it just comes right off!
Do you put anything on the glass before printing? I've seen people talking about PVA glue or hairspray O_O
@@tgriffin91 for pla, no. But for petg I flip it for the smooth side and use cheap hairspray
@@LOCOsnakeBITES awesome thank you 👍 I'm finding unless I have a raft, getting the print off the glass is tough 😅 I'm using PLA
@@tgriffin91 you maybe just be printing too close to the bed. That's an issue as well
I just wish my printer would have just came with a flat bed... seems silly.
They should really make glass the standard instead of the magnetic sheet.
I'd be willing to pay a bit extra to not have to go through the headache of trying to level my bed as a beginner, only to realize that my bed is warped.
@@1objection sounds like a bl touch could be your bf yall should link up
on a second note they do offer the ender 3 with a glass bed upgrade from the fac.
@@b-rad7708 I'm familiar with the process of leveling, I just hadn't realized my bed was warped. Doing it by hand is easy when your surface is actually flat.
Ikr
Just bought ender 3 with glass bad too, ty for your vids!
Thanks for watching.
I have the Anycubic Ultrabase Mega and a CR-10S (AC Keenovo SilconeHeater) both with Utrabase build surfaces; they both hold like a vise until the temp drops. I upgraded to the Creality version on my Ender 3. It does not hold as well, PLA curls at the corners with 3 different filaments I tested. I have started using a 5-8 outline skirt outlines in Simplify3D; much better results. Looking forward to the new removable buid plate and the just released magnetic system too.
Thanks for sharing, great info.
Great comparison Michael. I use the stock glass bed on the CR-10 and BCN3D Sigma with Magigoo wich works perfectly. Magigoo does look a bit expensive compared to other bed adhesives like glue stick. But each application will last for many prints. I may still try a removeable bed at some point though.
I was able to restore my Ender 3 heated bed back to being straight enough for the stock build surface to work nicely. I bent it little by little, using a straight edge to check my progress. Bend a little on the X-axis, then a little on the Y-axis, check with straight edge and repeat. I don't know if heat cycling will warp it again though.
That is a good effort. I know I would butcher that if I tried it.
awesome review! very informative!
I have all 3 of them because it's such a important part of the process. The factory one is pretty darn good and i am using the creality glass now and like it alot. The easy pealzy i have not used yet but i have a homemade magnetic base i made and like it alot also. With all that said imo i like glass and magnetic but the factory is darn good and cheap to replace.
I used an airbrush and put a light coat of tempra paint on my glass bed. Things stuck nice, and it can easily be refreshed by rinsing and spraying again.
I will keep my standard which is removable and works pretty fine I think(with some tape and glue ^^). Thank you for the video. Your videos are very instructive and very easy to understand. Keep it up bro ^^
Thanks, buddy, appreciate it :)
I started off with tempered glass on thermal pads until I dropped it while cleaning and shattered it, it was great once dialed in but did need hairspray for PET-G. For the substitute I went with the Ultrabase style glass and found it a pleasure, not sure how it will perform longer term but 2 months in and it hasn't shown any signs of degrading and it teaches good practice by waiting for the print to cool, definitely a cheaper option than glass and possibly cheaper than easy peelsy too
I found my stock Ender 3 surface became warped over time from taking it off and flexing it to release prints. The local glazing shop cut an offcut of regular window glass for me and rounded off the edges for a few quid. It's really flat and has good thermal properties. Add some hairspray and it works great.
I've just had this with my 2/5 week old Ender 3 Pro. The top is so worn out it's torn :/ However normal glass does not have the same thermal and other properties as Borosilicate glass
Best videos on the internet
Hey tnx for the video! Delivered as promised.
Never thought about using a heat pad, interesting.
You can also use fiberglass to get a flexy plate, not sure how good it is though.
I have not tried Easy Peelzy but since I went to the glass the quality of my prints has improved significantly also because the vanilla bed was not perfectly straight. And for adherence I recommend an hairspray it's very effective and economical.
Thanks for the video.
Congrats to 10k subscribers
Thanks very much. Goal for the first year was 1K, everything has gone very well.
@@TeachingTech Great and professional content convinced lot of people, so well done! I can see why your channel is that successful as you are teaching as day job. Again congratulations and looking forward for more awesome content.
Thanks again. Ive certainly put in some hours so I'm pleased with the results. My planned video list is long, including what I hope is some really original and interesting content.
The posh timelapses are killing it too! :nD I never noticed the audio being poor but I'm watching on a netbook, not audiophile gear. Your video's are often teh' most succinct on any given subject, whilst retaining meticulous detail when it's an advantage. I ordered my #GameChanger Ender3, it's on it's way. Thank you for all of your help with it - RJ
Nice review, Thanks. I have an Easy-Peelzy I bought over a year ago but haven't used it yet. Reason being, it has to be stuck to the heated bed and the thought of having to remove it if I don't like it or any other reason completely puts me off installing it.
Might add which surface leaves the best finish on the printed part. That would help with the decision on which to use.
I got my Ender3 with removable flexi bed. Can't complain yet... Had glass bed before on my other printer, but removing prints was pain, broke good few glass beds. Now I am happy with this flexi one, just remove, bend slightly and the print pops out...
The one on my Pro is also working quite well.
I applied on the original bed on 2 Ender3 the Original Prusa PEI Sheet for 7 euros and it work great
Found your vids while starting my search for a 3D printer for quad/drone parts. Thanks for taking the time, subbed. Which build surface did you end up leaving on your Ender 3? Looks like glass is the way to go, if you're not in a hurry for your prints and have patience to wait for the bed to warm up.
On my Ender 3 the stock bed was so warped I could only use a very small area of the build plate at a time. I went to a local glass store and bought a 3mm sheet of glass. I sanded the edges and apply a tiny bit of glue spray to the bed. This gives it a matte finish which does not stick when cold but sticks pretty well when heated up. Cost me $6 and the bottom layer is always perfectly flat and shiny.
Great solution.
Hi Mavamaarten, may I ask what kind of glue spray did you use? Thank you!
Mike great video, very informative, thumbs up! I have an Ender 3 with only add ons being a coated glass build plate and metal replacement for the stock plastic feed mechanism. Over 18+ months of ownership the printer has worked perfectly. I see lots of ppl printing add ons that are supposed to improve performance, but I'm dubious. Would you do a video about which Ender 3 add ons really improve results. Also, what periodic maintenance do you do?
I've got the Ender 3 produced in august 2018. It came indeed with a separate bed mat which is attached to the bedsurface with 4 clips and is fairly flat. Nothing sticks hard to it. Once my PLA print is ready I use the spatula, light push it and it pops of the mat. I have no issues at all with my prints and the stock mat.
That is the perfect scenario. I'm really glad they have improved. Is your bed flat?
@@TeachingTech Not entirely. It bends down a little towards the middle. But the removable mat is a plus. The way I do it is during bed leveling I make the nozzle scratch a bit more than gentle on an underlying paper in all four corners so it is about correct in the middle. This way I can get any object printed correctly, small of medium size.
the stock Ender 3 magnetic build surface is very convenient but over time i have pieces of the build plate breaking off with the print ....mainly near the middle of the surface ( it was shipped FOLDED) and could be a contributing factor
I’ve been using the stock removable style bed for almost a month now, and it has developed de-lamination bubbles under a few areas not far from the center. It’s causing thinner than intended extrusion in those areas. Have you run into this? I’m considering hitting Creality up for a replacement, but also buying one of their glass beds for improved flatness (some dishing from perimeter to center, but works ok)
I went with PEI on my Ender2 and it works flawlessly! Sticks really good, but as soon as the bed heater turns off and it just starts to cool down, it comes off like it was never stuck... So simple! ... Unlike my new Ender3... Damn, stuff sticks so good I have to pry it as hard as I can, use the sharp and sometimes scary scraper, and even then it barely releases. I hope it gets easier the more I print with it, or I'll be going with PEI again, because that's a perfect 10!😎🤘 Thanks for the review! 👍
I think I've decided PEI is my favourite too.
@@TeachingTech VeRy Co0ol! 🤘
I love the easy peal, some of the time after forcing the part off the glass or tape I would need tp relevel
Hey Michael, huge fan of your videos, you’ve become my go to for Ender 3 tutorials. I have a couple of questions for you if you wouldn’t mind helping a fellow maker out :).
Firstly, did you have any issues with the Easy Peelzy and inductive ABL? I remember reading that there could be some interference due to the magnetism, and I’m wondering if this is something I should look out for, as I plan on using an inductive sensor for my Ender 3, and would also like to get a new surface (namely the easy peelzy) while I’m at it.
Second, sort of piggybacking of the original question, could you do a video on a more affordable method of installing ABL on your Ender 3? I’ve seen maybe two coherent tutorials involving DIY methods and even those are lacking. Perhaps you could try the method on the blog “Let’s Print 3D” and let us know how it goes, as so far the BLTouch and EZABL system are around 60 bucks each, which is a little pricey for such an upgrade in my opinion.
Thanks for your time, continue making great vids! You’ve earned a sub!
Had a piece of mirrored glass cut at a local glass shop for $7. Had to adjust the z-index sensor slightly to allow for the thickness (glass was 4mm). The glass works great for PLA and PETG. I use a brim for thin parts. No glue or spray. For PLA I set the bed temp to 65.
The stock bed material was terrible. Wasted a lot of time with it. It peeled up in the corners and wasn't flat.My 2 cents worth would be to get the glass right away.
If bed is warped, it may help to use 3 clips to hold the glass bed (2 in the back and one in front) so the glass isn't forced to follow the warped shape of the bed
I used fine alcohol to clean my ultrabase a few times. Dried it out and is no longer easy to remove prints. But it sticks even better.
I completely agree, I love the factory bed that came on my Ender 5 Pro. I mainly print petg and occasional PLA, so it works out beautifully for me. Great video, do you have any thoughts on PEI build surfaces at all, I have been thinking about trying one.
2:38 tee hee
niceeeee
I had a warped bed so i just bought the Creality3D Ultrabase to compensate the bowl. Guess what... the Creality3D Ultrabase was warped as well. Hat to put tape between bed and Ultrabase and clamp it down pretty hard on the edges to get it somewhat straight.
I think the adhesion of the BuildTek is better. Even with 70 degrees Celsius i get warping and sometimes small parts get knocked off.
Just wanted to say thanks for the tape idea! I had a warped bed from day one. Tried the Creality3D glass and it improved the center dip a bit, but it got worse over time. Glass is weird in that it's a solid (mostly) but is also a liquid (all be it incredibly slow moving). I think the glass had basically taken the shape of the warped bed. I tired a couple of layers of blue painters tape under the glass, and it seems good again. One small circle, covered by one bigger circle.
I suppose I could have spent hours leveling the bed plate with wet & dry sandpaper, or printed a wedge thing from Thingiverse, but your tape idea took 5 minutes hehe. Cheers.
i love my glass surfes i got with my ender 3 v2
Have you considered doing a video on the best magnetic build surface?
I guess i got a different ender 3 then haha, since my “standard” metal bed is lose and and can be attached with clips. Als i orderd the version with the glass bed, but havent’t used it so far as the standard works really well for me since i can bent it somewhat to get the prints off easily.
Hey man, great video. I was wondering if the easy peel magnetic sticker is a solution to my scratched bed....?
FYI: everytime ive pushed hard or slightly hard ive had to re level the bed slightly just a heads up (with the ender 3) if you have the removable aio pad then you wont have to worry the older one with the glue scraping would be the concern
Hey, for the latest version of Ender 3. The sticker is not anymore directly on the aluminum bed. You can remove it because it's hold in place with paperclip. You can use glass with similar properties as buildtack by sanding the surface. It stick really well when hot and remove easily when cold. You don't need to use tape. I have never used tape. If you want to use glass without sanding it. Glue do the job well..
They change it so often it's impossible to keep videos up to date!
@@TeachingTech this is cool because they listen what customer say. And it give constant upgrade in the design.
what i'm missing is the cheap and good IKEA mirror solution, 4 pcs of mirror 30cmx30cm for approx 10 AUD. flat,thinner than the original and works like a champ.
PLA and PETG works prefect with a bit of hairspray, cold or warm.
use a glasscutter if you need it smaller (6 AUD or so )
sometimes the lowtech works well or even better.
I printed on cheap framing glass for years and years with hairspray. Used to buy all the offcuts from a framing place for a few bucks.
yes, works the same, I found that mirrors use to be flatter that normal glass, a great bonus for that price ( 4 mirrors in europe for 7 EUR )
but nothing as good as the OPI3Mk3 :)
Thank you so much, I have been looking for a cheap source of glass beds and wasn't having any luck at hardware stores. I hadn't thought to look at Ikea
I bought the Ender 3 glass from Amazon, fits perfectly but just got to dial the height in correctly. My bed was bowed in the middle . I might try removing the aluminium bed and flattening it at work .
Great video. I assume if your bed is warped slightly your only choice is the glass right?
On my Ender 3 I can print PLA, flexible TPU, and wood filament perfectly with the default surface. But I cannot print Nylon on it, it won't stick. For now I'm using 3M Blue Painters Tape and it works well with Nylon, but I'm waiting on a PEI sheet, I'll try that too.
Hi ,
could you please tell me which slicer you use , am using Cura but unfortunately could not get the perfect settings
thanks in advance
Hi thanks for the video. I would like to know after the bed cools down, will the Creality Cmagnet still hold on the print? thanks
I have had a lot of luck making PETG stick to glass, by sanding the glass using normal sandpaper.
If you use a finishing sander it is possible to get a uniform look. I just use some handpaper corn 80
to make a lot of scratches, but I haven't had a loose print since. :-)
Just be careful printing PETG directly onto untreated bro-silicate glass. Sometimes it can stick a little TOO well damaging the glass.
I've seen the pictures, but newer seen it my self. I think there must have been some errors in that glass.
I use normal (used) window glass, with no problem so far, but should it happen, then I have a lot of old glass and a glass cutter. ;-)
How did you manage to do that amazing timelapse?
Could you make a video showing how you got the time lapse working so well on the ender? I'm using octolapse and cannot figure out the settings to get it to look like it's not moving. Sucks pressing print, waiting hours and trying again.
This video is definitely coming. In the mean time put it on test mode for something small, then have the octolapse tab open. It gives you a preview of recent frames to see if it's stable.
I use glass and to stick the material I recommend sugar and water 50/50. Works perfect.
I wonder how they compare to sping steel beds... Glass looks like the best option, but the wait time is a factor for me, too impatient... Thanks for showing this comparison, Greetings from the East Coast of Canada... Be well...
I didn’t do the glue method on my stock plate and ended up with a stuck print after maybe 10 prints but no worries I’m buying a glass plate since I have a small hole in my original surface from trying to get a stuck print off
You mentioned curling on larger ABS prints... were you able to solve that? I am experiencing the same on the textured Glass plate.
The properties of the material make it hard to overcome. You can try more drastic things like putting an acetone/ABS slurry on the bed first. I generally just use PLA.
got the easy stuff already but made a mistake and ordered 200mm version though since i mainly use it for dnd minis it fine, Very easy too get prints off but dont make my mistake and try getting the nozzle close while hot from petg as melted a a s;all pit in the bed still works though
Yes, good point. Like real Builtak it doesn't like a hot nozzle at all.
Well... I THOUGHT i had a new printer... But My bed isn't removeable! (unless theres something I am missing)
It also is slighty warped. (middle of bed is lower than 4 corners)
Is yours the pro?
You bought the wrong model
It looks like the Easy Peelzy is stuck on the heat bed with an adhesive. Does doing this preclude the use of glass or the new ender's removable surface? Which surface did you choose as your day-to-day print surface?
You could take the top layer of the Easy Peelzy off and clip the glass onto the bottom. Would make it heat up a bit slower. The Easy Peelzy is staying on, the printe is about to go to a young fella new to 3D printing and I'd prefer him not to use the scraper.
I would keep it for me too, I have other printers for ABS if I need them.
pcb ruler link is broken =D cool video thank you
Hi Michael, I have a question for you regarding the Anycubic Ultrabase... I am thinking if it's a good idea to get it and found your video of the base on the Cocoon printer and you didn't seem to like it, but in this video it seems everything went well... Was it something wrong with the Cocoon printer? or was it the settings?...
thank you
Hey man! Just a PSA. I have been using my Eazy Peelzy since July, never had the bed over 50 degrees. I loved it. Very easy to remove prints etc. But lately I was noticing some high spots on my first layer. Turns out the bottom surface of the top piece has bubbles in it now. Super cheap still, but I wouldn't recommend it now, due to longevity.
I figure regular Buildtak wears out too so this is probably a similar cost to replace.
i cant get PLA to stick to this stuff at all any tips? i've been leveling for weeks, and I'm pretty sure my squish is perfect, yet part peel off mid way through first layer.
I can't recommend the magnetic surface, as it needs a level heatbed in the first place. I like to use my prusa steel sheet or glass. It gives the best consistancy
And the price is ridiculous
And it now got holes in it
You mention added load of the y-stepper, but does that translate to the print? I would be curious to know if you see more artifacts on the print just by adding that glass mass to the system. Did you try a calibration cube before and after the glass, for example?
I haven't tested it but on paper it should add to ringing. How much is an interesting question. Some people add glass plus cameras so I think the glass alone might be negligible.
@@TeachingTech The overshoot may depend on many things; mass of the glass, movement speed of the bed, flex in the belts.. etc. I'll be honest, I was hoping you had done such a test to find out if it has an effect in the typical printing range (30-60 mm/s?) before I spend money on a thick piece of heavy glass with surface treatment rather than a picture frame. I may do it anyway to find out!
An ultrabase of these dimensions would be something like 1.2 Kg in weight, that seems pretty significant compared to a camera that weighs roughly 100 grams? (GoPro)
Hello there, When I ordered my Ender 3 it came with the both the removable build plate and the glass, the stock removable build plate holds the prints great but the Creality glass doesn't hold anything unless I put blue painters tape on it (Haven't tried the hairspray yet).
Hairspray in the past has helped me a lot with glass.
Was the glass Ultrabase or just normal glass?
Washable gluestick 👌🏼
@@patjohn775 sugar diluted in water is the best
Pufna i Ben I’m going to try that
Glass has been the bane of my existence! I just got a magnetic bed and it's so much better. Nothing would stick to the glass bed no matter how much glue you put down. I also can tighten the bed easier so it doesn't wobble. Glass is the worst! 😫
Any way I can use swat from magnetic to glass easily?
Would it be possible to put back the glass over the magnetic sheet on the cr 10 v3?
I haven't got it yet
I have the 3d v2 with a glass bed using PLA but the prints stick like glue to the glass, so I always spend a long time scraping it off and I have chipped the glass. Any suggestions? Thanks, Richard
how does he do the timelapse that it lookes like its just rising instead of printing
it´s a feature withing octoprint, he explains it in a different video
I'm using normal window glass and it works as a charm with masking tape.
I find your videos informative and interesting. My only issue is you talk a little to fast! Otherwise keep up the great work!
I can't get anything to stick to the textured side of the standard Ender 3 surface, if I turn it over to the glossy side though and use Magigoo it works perfectly :P
Interesting, thanks. Question: if I use a glass bed, do I need to raise the z axis end stop?
On my Ender 5, I didn't need to adjust the z axis end stop. Adjusting the leveling screws did the job. See if that's an option first.
Any idea how can I use the default glass and the flexible sheet in parallel so I can easily swap them when needed?
Just clip the flex mat to the bed just like the glass. -- just adjust your z stop when you do
I have the ender 3 with the removable surface, but I find it very hard to get things to stick. How do you clean it? Also what do you apply to get pla to stick? Bed temperature? Thanks
I generally don't have sticking issues and I'm not using additives. PLA bed temp is 60. Acetone is a no no for cleaning but I haven't cleaned mine otherwise. Perhaps try getting your first layer a bit closer?
Hello, make sure to clean the bed with acetone, it needs to be very clean, then ensure the bed level is precise, if your using the paper method to get the right clearance between the nozzle and bed make sure that the paper binds snugly, you can play with this adjustment to find the sweet spot, this will squish your first layer resulting in better adhesion. If it still does not work use glue stick.
Hello in video i see extruder laser ??? Fast print stamp ? Can tell me what need do for have this extruder laser as in you video minutes 3.21 see fast stamp
Would you also consider a PRO for glass the incredibly smooth surface you get? Or would you say the others are also that smooth? I can definitely tell the difference between glass and masking tape.
Not a huge deal when the smooth part is just the bottom of something, but for instance if you are printing something that is going to show lettering, you can get that so smooth!
Can a magnetic sheet be used with a 3d printer that has proximity sensor for bed leveling ?
What are the temps and settings you use for the glass bed?
The original is good, if you flex it carefully and keep it clean, never have any issue. Yet to have a print not stick without any aid.
Have you tried regular annealed glass, window sheet glass? How well does that work?
hey Michael, any word on when the next episode of the frankendoodle is coming?
I have a micro-swiss hot end sitting here for it and I've previously designed a Z end stop holder so it shouldn't be too long.
@@TeachingTech can't wait
I have a ender 3 V2 that came with a glass plate factory I am new to 3D printing and find that it's very hard to remove my prints from the glass after there done. Is there a trick to removing them? I'm only using PLA so far and don't add nothing to the bed before I start printing. Is there a surface that works the best for every type of material? I don't mind spending a little bit more if it's worth it. Thanks and I appreciate the videos.
Magnetic base is not a good choice as it is creates bubbles or warping when trying to stick it down to the glass plate and be very, very using it as it is so easily damaged. Even worse is when it's time to take it off as most off the adhesive stays on the glass.
What about the Peelzy using the office clips for ABS?Feasible?
WOW, seems so easy. I think I might have a bad/warped bed. I used the stock and wore it out. Switched to the glass with coating and I can not get my bed level right.
I am about to give up.
I am trying so hard. After a few good prints on the stock build plate, it didn't hold my prints. So I got the glass w/coating from amazon.
it's late here, will try again tomorrow. This is frustating... :(
Did the glass bed help you? Do you have a link for the one you bought?
I think it was ok, I got this one from amazon.com
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GL2NMV5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
However, I would get the smooth flat one and use hair spray. I had bed leveling issues.
I am still waiting on a replacement microswitch as I had one break. But I also installed the yellow springs as my stock spring would loosen during print and cause hell.
I did like the flat built tak removable plate that came with the ender 3 originally. They sell them on Amazon as well. I am going to try the smooth glass if I don't get good results on this.
Did you fix it, I think I may have the same problem
My ender 3's stock bed was warped after just 3 prints , nothing would stuck to it also.
I got a creality glass bed and I put down hairspray before I print and now Im not waisting any material.
All my prints wil stick right away.
Also after cooling down just wash the glass with just water and repeat.
By far the most easy one to clean.
The standard bed got contaminated with old pla wich I couldnt even scrape off without damaging the bed.
For me glass + spray made all prints better.
Can I use the glass over the magnetic plate or do I have to remove it??
Id say it'll take longer to heat up and wont be quite as magnetic but as long as you adjust your Z-stop to the right height I don't see it causing any problems.
Easy Peelzy has been making my life hell for like 3 weeks. I can't get PLA to stick to it at all, I had better luck w my warped sheet of glass my Cr-10 came with. I'd kill for this thing to work at all. Any tips? I've never worked with build-tak like stuff before and maybe I'm just using it wrong but as of now terrible experience.
My sheet is still going strong with the new owner of the printer. With these surfaces you don't want the first layer as close or squished as glass. Too close and it will bond so well you'll never remove it.
but you didn't review latest Ender surface which comes in detachable form on laminate