Converting Server Power Supply For Programming BMW's: Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2021
- Converting Server Power Supply For Programming BMW's: Part 1
I used a KD175 and this is a link to the PDF document i referenced: www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...
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This thing was designed to power sensitive computer equipment.
We are going to repurpose and modify it to power sensitive computer equipment. 😂
Cool vid, this is the era of electronics on Zeroto60.
Awesome content! Thanks a million!
Great reference video for anyone wanting to make a DIY PSU. I need to do the fan control mod to mine, I've just been putting up with jet engine fans while using it but it does make it hard to think.
great work , love your enthusiasm, this looks like it will be so handy
It will be, these supplies really are a beast. Bit of messing around to get them going, but it should be a bloody good setup once its sorted.
This is awesome guys! Finally an affordable big car power supply. You should sell this modified unit on your website! Dutch regards, Nico
Haha, not a bad idea, mind you these are definitely for the DIYers out there. Takes quite a lot of time to do, which would make it hard to make money out of them.
I use 2 DPS-750eb, use my 3d print to make some brakets to make it one big unit with switchs and with outputs for use it on bench or with the big "jumper cables", work so good, already use it too jump my car with dead battery, and it work very good.
U can use the big 100 amp blade fuses on the e9x battery positive block to make a solid connection to the power supply, just solder them to the psu. I also recommend 0 gauge cable for audio amps, leads not longer than 40cm
u probably need a better soldering iron with a temp regulator to get it to work as intended, and the fans can probably also be upgraded to somekind of brushless and quieter ones ?
could throw some big brass spade connectors on the wires, line them all up and use hot glue to make a plug
@20:45 Poking in a working 1300W PSU with a small screwdriver is a NO-NO in my book. Also, the metal switch is something I would avoid in such a system.
andrew drill a small hole in the edge of the lid and glue the potentiometer to the inside wall with the hole above it then you can put small screwdriver in hole and adjust with out taking the lid off. you can also buy solder flux in a syringe it is meant for circuit boards and chips i see you have made use for the magnified glass with light and the aligator clips how bad was all the hail cheers glenn
Glen your bits and pieces really showed me what i was missing out on. Can't thank you enough. For normal work the solder station is a breeze to use to, so thanks again. Thats the plan with voltage adjustment, will be a small hole, that i can use if i ever need to adjust voltage, however i am hoping once set with a load it should be all good to go.
Also regarding the hail. The M5, 330ci and 320d have all been repaired with paintless dent removal. The paint on my car, which was the worst hit, is not so straight forward, the dent repair guys is pretty confident there will be issues pulling dents. So at this point in time, basically going to pull dents where we can and then respray the whole car. I will do an update video on it shortly, i also want to film the process, to try and make the extra cost all worth while. The respray is to get the paint back to an OEM finish all over, fix the bumper that some muppet drove in to a winch on a trailer and just get the car looking as good as possible.
Aus version of my car on the ramp. Hope it runs better than mine 😂
Where did you buy KD175 ?
Ebay
😱 Looks dangerous haha.
Why does the power output have to be so high for programming keys? You're a clever man, I'm a bit lost with this stuff 😂
Basically if the voltage at the cas module drops below a certain value, i think its 12.5v on the e-series, the module turns off. So if that happens while writing important data, the module basically bricks and gets stuck in a boot loop. So you need enough current going to the car, to make sure the voltage is high enough at the cas. When i was playing with the parts car, it took a 20amp power supply and a 8amp battery charger to keep the voltage high enough.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Gotcha 👍🏻
I know very little when it comes to electronics, especially car related electronics, but I have had some strange electronic faults with my R53 mini recently and traced it to a completely flooded footwell which has soaked the Body Control Unit. So I guess it's time to learn a little more 😬
Did you get the email about the syvecs setup
I did, i did, sorry i didnt reply, as you can tell by the lack of vids this week has been terrible. I had a look at it on ebay, i can actually get a haltech setup for similar money. It will be more work to install, but being new we will get support on the Haltech, not to mention the tuner, really wants a haltech on ohhrly. Thought about the syvecs with my car, but considering the hail damage and single kit coming soon, i have already allocated my credit card balance... LOL Thanks for sending it through and thinking of us tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube no problem mate just saw it when I was browsing and thought of you guys but the haltech is a good sensible choice 😉👌
use female spades, you will need a needle nose to squeeze terminal together so the spade can be pushed over the two sides.
also that is not a KD175, its a JD200. tHE KD175 has a buss bar on the inside for positive and negative.
A battery maintainer and a charger are different devices. A maintainer is needed for coding and programming. Great line of videos.
Actually he has the KD175, the JD200 is the one with the large current strips. I was just working on the inside of my JD200.
Preheat connector with hot air gun. First shield PCB with cardboard to stop damage to the capacitors and the like.
Heat to 100C and see how it goes.
Tried with the mini blow torch, I assume they must be connected to massive plates in the pcb to handle the current, the heat dissipates too quick. Need more heat in a concentrated spot. There are heaps of threads on guys soldering to them, I’m blaming my equipment……… for now haha
Did you get my email about syvecs
@@ZeroTo60Tube You use the electric hot air gun you have to preheat that end of the PCB and try solder with 80w iron.
Where is the oscilloscope testing??? Dirty power will brick the ecu
The amount of ridiculously dangerous behavior in this post is something people need to think about. This man seems knowledgeable but evidently he was away when any safety was taught. The amount of time he says “I don’t know” in his experimenting is the first clue.
you are welcome!
Remember its current that kills not voltage and electrocution is final not survivable. This PSU is extremely dangerous to work on if you have no electrical background.
Very wise…