Converting Server Power Supply For Programming BMW's: Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Converting Server Power Supply For Programming BMW's: Part 2
I used a KD175 and this is a link to the PDF document i referenced: www.bimmerfest...
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Great job guys! That's a decent programmer power supply! Dutch regards, Nico.
On my setup i just use cable for welding equipment, cheap and is capable of over 300A, with 140A they never use to gain heat. I have mY PSU at 14.6v, with 1.5m cable it drops to 14.2V, my e60 535d with ignition on when it run the fuel pump use over 75A, one some E series you will need over 80A, my recomendation is that you have 100A to be sure. Other option is to go junkyard and remove the battery cable from BMW for example, thay can take the power you need.
Both good solutions. These 2 guage cables have a very minor drop over the 2 metre run. But if you can get away with a cheap option i think that is great. Also very interesting to hear some e series pulling that much current.
I understand why you would use 13.8V for bench programming but when connected to the car, I thought (based on the INPA / Bentley manual) that 14.8V is more appropriate. The supply seems capable of 14.8V and it would reduce the current needed for a particular load so, I was wondering if there a reason why you use 13.8V?
They say 14.8 working for a margin of error assuming a smaller supply wont handle consistent load at lower voltages. If you have a supply maintaining 14.8 and something turns on and draws a load of current, you have a better margin of error before you hit 13v. From what i understand as long as each module is above 13v they will keep programming (it may be lower actually). You have to remember that is volts at the module itself. So 13.5v at the charge terminals in the engine bay is normally more than enough. As this supply is so beefy, it should be pretty solid on any BMW at what ever voltage i set it to. Mark when programming his F15 was drawing between 30-50amps and he has his one also set to 13.6v, so figured if it works on his F15 it should be sweet for everything.
Great experiment! I use one with diagnostic mode.
That red engine cover reminds me of the VL Turbo engine.
Your meant to use 100w light bulbs to load inverter. That heat can can blow the inverter as it just turns heater element on and off to vary temp.
excellent Andrew
get non-cca jumper leads. F series needs 13.6 so you need 14v from the PSU to allow for voltage drop (F01/02).
I had read that, i went with the lowest number i thought i could get away with, but can bump it up. When mark programmed his f15, he has his supply set at 13.6, which is why i just set mine similar. From what i understand, they will keep programming if you stay above 13v at the terminals. Mind you i also heard that for NBT stuff, they will allow lower voltages.
@@ZeroTo60Tube if using ISTA the voltage alarm is 13.2volt, the fully loaded 5, 6, and 7 can draw as high as 60+ amp when coding cause modules in sequences need to be activated.
How I can find the quick connections for the cable?
Not related to the power supply, (awesome job by the way 😊,) do you have any details on that air intake? Not seen that type before! Thanks!
It's a dinan and man it is well made. Lovely piece of fabrication. My only gripe with it, is it adds a pod filter to the LHS space, in the front bumper, so if you have this you can't run a trans cooler. Great for lower power stock turbo cars, but wont really suit anyone trying to go properly fast.
Did you turn the air con fans to full and run the water pump. Basically turn everything that can turn on with engine off.
Nah, no coolant in it at the moment. Ran the fan about half from memory. Basically as fast as I felt wouldn’t mess with the audio too much.
What would cause all that resistance in the leads? Is it impurities in the copper? Contact surface to small? Or just a lighter gauge wire?
I thought Mark was your brother in law back when you worked on his X5.
Mark is my everything.... lol haha. I hope he see's this comment. Yes he did happen to marry my sister, but we were friends long before. As i like to keep reminding my sister. And to answer your question, yes, its basically the wire being too think to handle the current flow and heating up. Which is how heating elements and old light bulbs work. Thing enough wire, that the current causes heat or light.
Where you get the cool red engine cover from
It came on this car. Full custom job, it actually looks quite nice.
Cool man make me one 😃
Buy the bits and I’ll put it together not worries. I still owe you for some Clarkson videos from about 2007…… 😂
Hi did you change anything to the power supply to make almost 14 volt? Also did you add it the fun controller?
Man this was filmed so long ago I can’t remember but if you watch part 1 and part 2 it will show the entire process
@@ZeroTo60Tube Ok sorry I did not know there where part 1 and 2 thank you so much. I will need to find now
Hey Andrew, you guys going to rolls on the 20th ?
Probabaly not, the 17t car is at the panel shop at the mo and i can't see the vargas car being ready. But well see
Why on earth does BMW need 100+ amp while coding ?
Its a worse case scenario from running multiple modules at the same time. And needing to be over 13.5v at the module.
Will mark just sell me one?
He wouldnt even sell me his one...........
400amp rating oh those 8 gauge cable is a lie, it's more like 50 amps.
I use gysflash 100.it good price and do his job
You are a wise man!! I would love a proper supply, but they are just a little expensive.
@@ZeroTo60Tubeabout 500euro but it without to need a fan
@@waldemarfechtel1644 you can modify this and add a noctua fan which is almost silent.
@@piovo5222 im glad to have gysflash 100
@@waldemarfechtel1644 in his case it cost about $150 here in the uk you can build for about £50 since the psus are very cheap. £50 instead of that €500 for gysflash? You think the parts they use are any different.