2013 - 2017 Honda Accord How To Replace REAR Brake Pads
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- This video will show you how to replace the rear brake pads on the 9th generation Honda Accord. The vehicle on the video is a 2015 Honda Accord EX.
🛠 LINKS TO SOME OF THE PRODUCTS & TOOLS USED 🛠
Lisle 28600 Disc Brake Piston Tool: www.amazon.com...
Brake Cleaner: www.amazon.com...
Caliper Grease: www.amazon.com...
Silicone Paste: www.amazon.com...
🚗 OEM Eangg
FYI: For those DIY whom do not have the rear piston tool, you can just use a 3/8" socket extender and insert it on the center of the cross channel and turns the caliper piston back into place without issues...no tool necessary.
awesome...work like a charm :)
Thanks!!
Thank you so much for the advice!!
Life saver right here
Thanks
Female here. Just did my rear brakes on my 2016 Accord Touring. No need to remove another screw other than the two holding the caliper. Make sure brake is not engaged. Pulm out pins, grease them and put back in. Push back piston. I did not have the strength so my dad pushed them back. I did everything else. I'm done.
Nice work, Sir. Don't mind the negative comments. You do not always have to turn the rotors if they are in good condition. I'd be more concerned to about the front than the rear on a front wheel drive car.
I pushed the piston back in with a large flat head screwdriver. It was a pain in the neck, but I got it done.
Awesome video my guy. Thank you...I feel confident in performing the service now!
Thanks sir for taking the time to help me out. Truly appreciate. Your a blessing. Thank you.
Glad to have helped.
Awesome video! It was extremely helpful for a friend of mine who was changing the rear brakes on his parents car.
Glad to help!
Great video bro, it shure helped me finish the job a lot quicker! 👍
Great video man! I was able to change my rear pads in less than 2 hours. The only thing that held me up was that I was too cheap to purchase the piston tool. I used a husky diamond Phillips head 2x4 screw driver that fit perfectly in the grooves. Thanks again!
Hey you do whatever works for you. Glad to see I was able to help.
Hell yeah, excellent video man. Everything worked out great.
Guys this is my uncle
Not this commenter
You did a great job!! Thanks for sharing, I know it takes a lot of time to do a video of that quality.
Going to change my pads tomorrow !!! Chuck
Thanks for the compliment.
Thxs for full install explanation
excellent instructional video, thank you for taking the time to post so we can learn
thanks for the nice comment.
Great video!!
Your video save my butt..and cash haha. Taking a road trip in a few days. Thanks bro!
Glad to help!
Great Job! Thanks for sharing
Nice!
I'll be uploading the rear rotor and pads, the piston compression is the most annoying part!
hahaha... i agree.
When you push that piston back in you are supposed to leave it straight in the cross position so the little round nubs on the inner pad seat inside the piston.
That is correct. I wasn't sure if I was explaining it very well at 13:01 of the video.
Just curious, If the grove doesn't match the nub when you put it back, what issues occur?
Thanks for this
thanks for your help bro
I love your video bro keep up the videos wish the best
Thanks for the good words. I really appreciate it.
I feel so dumb. I stopped watching right before you showed how to squish the piston. I was trying for 2 hours then i went back to watch and realized I HAD to screw it... SMH I should have watched it all the way. Thanks for the video dude! Thanks to you I was able to figure it out.
LOL... Glad it helped. I know the video is long but I try to be thorough. I don't want to skip any steps.
@@OEMEangg No not at all, under 15 minutes for this kind of job is great pacing Sir. Haste makes waste on my behalf 😉👍
Thanks for explaining. Helps a lot.
no prob. just let me know if you need any clarification...
Thank you so much you help me a lot
glad to help!
nice video !
Excellent video, very very helpful. 👍👍👍
Great Video! I was able to do removed the pad after watching you pointing out the brake line holder bolt. Anyway, my new pads does not have the two holes on them for the spring clip to hook back onto so does this really matter or post any safety issues?
The spring separate the pads from the rotors when you are no stepping on the brakes. It is probably ok but keep that part and use it on your next brake pad replacement.
OEM Eangg, its been driving fine without the spring on the pads but yes, I kept it for the next break job. Thanks
glad to help...
How do you know that the cross in the caliper piston is going to catch onto that little piece that sticks out of the brake pad
Turn the caliper piston until you can tell that it will line up
You should invest in a tri pod for your camara.
Curious as to leaving the clips unlcleaned?
yes, you should clean it. I may have forgotten to clean it.
Save yourself the 50 bucks and just turn the piston with a socket wrench
The piston cube tool cost about $5
thank you so.much
Those 2 pins sliders, do the pads contact those as well? I'm not sure but from the vid, it's only the shims that contacts the pads.
No, the pins are not in contact with the pads.
+oem Eangg I thought they were. Since I hear clicking noise when I press the brakes during 10kmh speed to stop slowly.
On the inside pad, the shim is in contact with the piston ( that round thing with the plus sign). And on the outside pad, the shim is in contact with the caliper frame. Is it one click when you press the brakes or multiple clicking sound?
+oem Eangg sometimes 1 click and sometimes a couple. I'm not sure if the shims are there since OEM Honda pads have like chrome shims. The outer pad looks black on the side. But they are maintained by Honda. Could it be something with the piston on that brake?
keep up the good work
Thanks for sharing good video for us. May I ask what brand of brake pad you use? Or you recommend Genius Honda Parts? My car is 2014 Accord need to change I think so need to know more about this
I just use the Autozone brand. Just don't get the cheap ones. I do prefer OEM parts tho...
@@OEMEangg May I ask how much for one pair normally in Autozone and OEM?
I think OEM are about $50. Autozone has different quality. The cheap ones are for $30 or the expensive ones for $60. I would get the mid grade. I would guess about $40.
just release parking brake, no need to remove cable
If my 2016 honda civic is front wheel drive ? Do I need to replace all four?
You do not have to change all four. From my experience, the REAR pads tend to last 2 to 3 times longer than FRONT.
oem Eangg i dont see a caliper on my rear . Is this normal
@@ODPhadezz If you have 2006-2011 Civic Si, it should be rear disc and have the caliper. If you have the DX or LX, i believe they are rear drums.
Just curious why the silicone paste on guide pins.
You can use other grease or lubricant that is made for the brakes. I use the 3M silicone paste because 3M states that it is used for brake systems.
Good work only using one hand!
So, you greased the slide pins but didn't lube the back of the pads, the new hardware, or turn or replace the rear rotors?
if you know so much why the hell are you here watching this?
Archie Comegna you got flamed 🔥 by ^
You don't need to turn the rotors every pad change. If you catch them early enough and they are ceramic, then the rotors could last 2-3 pad changes.
If you don't have a brake pedal that pulsates, and you check the run out and they're in spec, there is no need to resurface the rotors.
What if the piston doesn’t want to go in when your spinning it??
Sam Gonzalez u gotta push and spin if it doesn’t go in or spin it’s probably seized did your pads get to low
Damn Honda Rotor screws..hate them. I had to drill out 4 of them yesterday. Nothing will break them loose
I feel like you might as well take them out when the car is new and literally dip them in anti sieze
@@DkpProductions actually i just left them off..they really arent needed
impact hammer screwdriver
Tries that too
If this ain’t a step by step video than honestly stop working on your car lol thanks for the help really on point man 🫡🫡🫡
LOL. Thanks for the comment.
When you change your breaks, do you do the front and rear???
Depends if it needs it. Fronts go out way sooner.
Good job!!!!
I have a noise on 2013 rear brakes Honda civic. The funny thing is it makes a scraping sound every time the tire rotates one time around. But if I loosen the wheel nuts it goes away. If I tighten the wheel nuts, again, I hear a scraping noise every time the tire rotates one time. It is also makes the sound on both sides in the rear. What the hell can it be? I don't think its the brake pads because they would squeak as I turn the tire all the time, not just one time around. Weird stuff.
When you tighten the wheel, it pushes the rotor and wheels inwards. I am guessing that the BRAKE DUST SHIELD is scraping on the rotor or wheel. I am assuming that the brake pads are still good. Anyone else wanna take a guess?
oem Eangg i was to say the same.
Aside from a small chamce some grit or a stone has caught
It could be a hot spot on the rotors as result of hard braking or lockup at high speed. This cause the pads to transfer heat onto the rotors at that spot which in turn make it higher then the rest of the surface on the rotors, so when one revolution comes around, the pad catches the high spot on the rotors and makes that noise. You can test this by removing one back tires and just spin the rotor and find out.
My car is at 55,000 mi, I am about to replace the front. Do I also need to replace the rear too?
It is recommended that you at least resurface/machine the rotors if you don't replace them.
So I’m kind of wondering why didn’t you just leave the top bolt on and swing the whole caliper up would’ve been much easier and it’s the same as the front But good video for the beginner👍
For the rear brakes, you cannot swing it up like the front brakes. The way it is designed, you need to unbolt BOTH top and bottom bolts. At least that is my experience from working on Hondas.
Do I need two jacks? Because I only have the one that came with the car
You can work on one wheel at a time. So, you need one jack and one jack stand will work.
You should NEVER! rely on just a Jack. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes, just saying
_Play stupid games, win stupid prizes_
I've always like that saying as well.
Stellar Onyx
Anyway, the emergency jack that comes with a vehicle is just that, a jack for emergencies. How many people have been pinned underneath a vehicle because they just used the original jack. Please, invest some money for a 2.0/2.5 ton jack or even a bottle jack along with jack stands. They will come in very handy when doing changes to oil, trans fluid and filter, exhaust system, suspension, etc.
Dummies.....you should stay the fuck-a-way from fixing cars🙄
Dont trust stock jacks
I bought some duralast brake pads and only 1 out of the 4 brake pads have the mechanical tab that makes the noise on them then I went to speak with the lady in autozone and she opened up 4 different brakes and that’s how they all were any ideas
Unless they went cheap on the brakes and expect all the brakes to wear evenly
If your car is a Civic, it should have them. I know that the Duralast Gold comes with them. On some cars, you will reuse the part. On my other video with the Toyota Highlander, I reuse it. ruclips.net/video/VXvFVof-qj0/видео.html start the video at 5:30.
my both rear calipers are screwed up,from leaving the ebrake up for 2 weeks. which now gotta be replaced
I don't think the calipers would be damaged from leaving the ebrakes up. I would guess either the pads or rotors would be damaged.
@@OEMEangg well my pads are unevenly worn. the slide pins slide just fine
Did you have any issues with your E brake after replacing pads? In my case the e brake feels loose, it goes to far up.
I never had any problems with the ebrake/parking brake. When working on the rear brakes, we do not pull/set the ebrakes. We did have to unbolt both the ebrake/parking brake cable. In the video at 5:07 , I "forgot" to take off that brake cable. Did you bolt that cable back on? Also, if it takes 6 to 9 clicks when pulling up on the ebrake, that is considered normal.
LOL I have noticed That you have room looks just like mine
Rim locks
I watched the video just to see how to use the cube tool and you didn't show that in the video 😢
I know.me too..😳
So is changing the front the same thing ?
kimberly rios yeah you just don’t have to unbolt the bottom 12mm screw.
Front is easier than the rear
Should have used a tripod. Saying what you are going to do and then showing how it looks afterwards is just not good enough. Need to film the whole thing. If you don't have a tripod, get a friend or put the camera up on a chair or something.
You did not have the rotors turned or install new rotors?
It is recommended that you should turn the rotors but I did not machine the old rotors.
@@OEMEangg If the rotors are in good condition, I hand sand both sides of the rotors to remove the glaze. Now-a-days, it is not easy to find a place that machines rotors.
Do you guys like it this is my video
I fucked up... I put the one with the pin outside🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Dont you have to bleed the brake fluid when replacing the rear brakes?
Ricardo Mercado It would be a good time to do so if your fluid is dirty. Other than that, its not necessary.
No, you do not need to bleed the the system.
Only when you disconnect the brake hoses.
I have a question. I have 2017 Honda Accord and I cannot figure out this noise for the life of me. It's only when I'm braking I hear this weird noise coming from the back. Very hard to explain but sounds like a rubbing/ stretching noise. It's only when I brake. I've taken the brakes off and cleaned all the parts again but i cant figure it out. Any input would be helpful 🙏
I found a video with a similar noise.
ruclips.net/video/PC_QFJy2sLw/видео.html
It is difficult to diagnose a problem by just watching. There were comments in that videos that were wrong. I will just tell you what I think it can be. I would say it has to do with the parking brake. Let me know if that helped.
My bolts wont go back in
Did you spin the piston into the caliper? Spin it all the way in. The video at 11:21.
@@OEMEangg I gottem bro thanks haha
ALWAYS USE HONDA GREASE..ITS COMES WITH PADS...
agreed. has correct amount molybdenum that won't dry out. else say hello to random squeaks after a while.
you skipped the part you remove the rear rotor?????
I see a whole bunch of extra shit that don’t need to be said
Buy new gloves
LOL... My friends make fun of me too... I have 3 boxes. 2 boxes fit me. I just like those loose fitting ones.
Dude! Your rotors are pitted! Need to be replaced, not even turned, but replaced!
Archie Comegna pitted?
Ross Miller Yes, pitted! Small rusted spots on face of rotor, allowing no solid metal surface, but a porous metal surface. Like rust on a body panel, when you sand the rust off, you'll see pits in the sheet metal. Rotors can be pitted well, minimizing braking surface on the rotors.